2015 Samsung 4k TV as a Monitor Set Up Guide

Lateralus

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Hey fellas. I had a 2015 LG EG9600 OLED, which I traded up for a 2016 C6, which I traded up for a 2017 C7 (solely due to lower input lag vs the C6, which is a dramatic difference). I have had zero burn-in on any of these TVs. Image retention can happen, but it goes away. With that said, I do take a few steps to help prevent the problem which doesn't really affect my usage, and isn't too outlandish...

1. When not gaming, I use a different picture mode for lower brightness (OLED light around 20-30 - my room is dark so it's actually almost necessary considering all the white desktop windows).
2. All my desktop icons are in the middle of the display, so that they are covered by my browser window, etc. the vast majority of the time. I also web browse with about a 50% horizontally sized window since full screen is a bit insane to browse with at 55" close up.
3. Task bar auto-hides.
4. After 5 minutes, my screensaver goes to a 100% black image to turn off the pixels if I am briefly stepping away from the TV. I always power off the TV when away for extended periods.
Thanks man, I remember you from the big Samsung 4K thread and that you eventually went OLED. I was hoping that you would chime in. I might be PM'ing you for tips and guidance if I have any questions (assuming you don't mind). I'd like to get the most out of this set!
 

Lateralus

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Just to update for those who may be curious...

Nitemare3219 I got my TV set up on Saturday and it’s absolutely incredible. My games have never looked this fantastic. Simply stunning. I was trying to describe the blacks to some people today...if I set my desktop wallpaper to solid black and hide the taskbar, the TV looks like it’s powered off. Zero glow whatsoever. I know that’s how it’s supposed to be, but after using LCD displays for almost 20 years - even really good VA panels - this is mindblowing.

And the motion is so smooth and fluid. I’m not sure if that’s due to the lack of PWM or something intrinsic to OLED tech, or both, but the lack of ghosting is noticeable after using my JS9000. I briefly toyed with 120Hz @ 1080p and that was icing on the cake.

I’m genuinely taken aback by this thing every time I use it. Seriously spoiled now.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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So I discovered a little bit of an Nvidia driver issue which impacts these screens and I was wondering if anyone else had run into it, and had a way to solve it.

AS you guys know, our monitors report a non-native 4096 x 2160 resolution to the operating system as their max resolution.

I was playing an old game today, and was thinking, "I wonder how this would look in 8k DSR mode"

Well, there appears to be a bug in Nvidias drivers. Instead of basing DSR multiples off of the screens native resolution, it bases it off of the screens max resolution, meaning, if I try a 4x DSR, it shows up as 8192x4320, instead of the proper 7680x4320.

The only way to solve this seems to be to edit the available resolutions "edid override?" to hide the 4096x2160 resolution so windows never sees it. I've never had to do this before, nad it looks awfully complicated.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

dpoverlord

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Has anyone tried put the new 2017 qled? Few friends on black Friday were looking at the q8 and q7 series.

I still like the curved model personally
 

serowoon

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What sharpness setting do you guys have these Samsung 4k TVs set at when connected to the PC?

I trusted and stuck with the rtings recommendation to turn down the sharpness setting to 0 on my mu7000 for the first few days (where I was mostly looking at videos for picture quality) and I've just realized that the sharpness setting of 0 100% positively applies blurring/softening effect on the picture on this model.

I've now went back to the default 50 and that entirely took care of the text clarity issue that I had been very disappointed with before this.

I'm fairly certain that 50 is the neutral point for sharpness for this Samsung model or as neutral as it can get with some minimal sharpening effect (which I only notice on the settings UI) that's built-in to the TV.
 

Lateralus

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What sharpness setting do you guys have these Samsung 4k TVs set at when connected to the PC?

I trusted and stuck with the rtings recommendation to turn down the sharpness setting to 0 on my mu7000 for the first few days (where I was mostly looking at videos for picture quality) and I've just realized that the sharpness setting of 0 100% positively applies blurring/softening effect on the picture on this model.

I've now went back to the default 50 and that entirely took care of the text clarity issue that I had been very disappointed with before this.

I'm fairly certain that 50 is the neutral point for sharpness for this Samsung model or as neutral as it can get with some minimal sharpening effect (which I only notice on the settings UI) that's built-in to the TV.
I believe that's been discussed but from what I remember, sharpness should be set to 50 in PC mode. And for some reason, 0 in Game mode = 50 in PC mode so most of us set the sharpness to 0 when using Game mode in order to achieve the same appearance.
 

ManofGod

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I have the Samsung UN43MU6290FXZA. Has anyone had the issue where sometimes, the graphics get totally screwed up and you have to unplug and plug the TV back in to set it to normal? I am using a Vega 56 reference card, 17.11.4 drivers and a proper 4k HDMI 2.0 cable. Also, it flashes once when I log in like it is doing a detection or something. Perhaps a DDU of the drivers and reinstall?

Oh, I am on Windows 10 Pro 16299.64. One other thing, I noticed that when opening UWP apps Mail or Edge, the program does not open smoothly anymore but, it did when I was using the Display port on a Samsung 28 inch 4k display.
 

euskalzabe

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I have the Samsung UN43MU6290FXZA. Has anyone had the issue where sometimes, the graphics get totally screwed up and you have to unplug and plug the TV back in to set it to normal?
What do you mean by screwed up, exactly?
 

ManofGod

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What do you mean by screwed up, exactly?
Glitchy and corrupted graphics all across the screen. I removed the 11.4 drivers, installed the 17.9.3 drivers and that almost fixed it, I have only had it occur once since then.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Glitchy and corrupted graphics all across the screen. I removed the 11.4 drivers, installed the 17.9.3 drivers and that almost fixed it, I have only had it occur once since then.

I've never seen this. Mine randomly turns off to a black screen and immediately turns back on again on occasion.

At first I thought I had a bad HDMI cable, but it only does this under Linux, not under Windows 10, so I think it might be some sort of driver issue.

It's infrequent enough that it is only slightly annoying, and not a deal breaker.
 

ManofGod

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I've never seen this. Mine randomly turns off to a black screen and immediately turns back on again on occasion.

At first I thought I had a bad HDMI cable, but it only does this under Linux, not under Windows 10, so I think it might be some sort of driver issue.

It's infrequent enough that it is only slightly annoying, and not a deal breaker.
I have a spare 4k HDMI cable that I bought. I will try that and see what happens. I have until 22nd to exchange the TV, if I need too.
 

dpoverlord

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So I tried playing Destiny 2 (PC) and turned on the HDR. The colors got very dark, is there another way of setting this up correctly?
 

serowoon

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I have the Samsung UN43MU6290FXZA. Has anyone had the issue where sometimes, the graphics get totally screwed up and you have to unplug and plug the TV back in to set it to normal? I am using a Vega 56 reference card, 17.11.4 drivers and a proper 4k HDMI 2.0 cable. Also, it flashes once when I log in like it is doing a detection or something. Perhaps a DDU of the drivers and reinstall?

Oh, I am on Windows 10 Pro 16299.64. One other thing, I noticed that when opening UWP apps Mail or Edge, the program does not open smoothly anymore but, it did when I was using the Display port on a Samsung 28 inch 4k display.
I've seen this crazy screwed up graphics screen exactly once on each of the 2 sets of mu7000 with PC connection. It went away once the TV was turned off and back on and I haven't seen it since.

On another note, how many dead pixels are you guys seeing on your Samsung sets?

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php

I've found 3 total on my brand new mu7000 mostly near the edge and corner. They're nearly impossible to notice when you're not actively looking for them so I'll likely just live with them but I'm wondering if 3 dead pixels on a 4k screen is within the acceptable standard or not for Samsung 4k TVs.
 

euskalzabe

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Glitchy and corrupted graphics all across the screen. I removed the 11.4 drivers, installed the 17.9.3 drivers and that almost fixed it, I have only had it occur once since then.
I've seen this crazy screwed up graphics screen exactly once on each of the 2 sets of mu7000 with PC connection. It went away once the TV was turned off and back on and I haven't seen it since.
So, it depends on the type of corruption you're seeing. If you're seeing this very often (like, many l times per week), and it involves glitchy colors of all types, this may be your GPU or the screen. If changing drivers fixed it, then there's nothing wrong with the screen, but with the drivers you were using.

However, many people seem to not know that when updating Samsung's UHD TVs (I can only speak to the 6x00 range), there is a good amount of blue corruption happening in the screen. This only happens when the TV is executing the update, for which it needs to be on to finalize it. Not sure why, but that's the only time I've seen that happen on my KU6290, and others have seen this too (I can't remember if it was a H thread or on the Samsung forums). Keep that in mind in the future, if you see those blue glitches, it's probably just a firmware update being installed. The TV needs to be turned off and on for the firmware to finish installing, so after doing that no more corruption is seen.
 

ManofGod

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So, it depends on the type of corruption you're seeing. If you're seeing this very often (like, many l times per week), and it involves glitchy colors of all types, this may be your GPU or the screen. If changing drivers fixed it, then there's nothing wrong with the screen, but with the drivers you were using.

However, many people seem to not know that when updating Samsung's UHD TVs (I can only speak to the 6x00 range), there is a good amount of blue corruption happening in the screen. This only happens when the TV is executing the update, for which it needs to be on to finalize it. Not sure why, but that's the only time I've seen that happen on my KU6290, and others have seen this too (I can't remember if it was a H thread or on the Samsung forums). Keep that in mind in the future, if you see those blue glitches, it's probably just a firmware update being installed. The TV needs to be turned off and on for the firmware to finish installing, so after doing that no more corruption is seen.
Thanks. I actually only hook up the TV to my network when I want to check for an update. Otherwise, I just leave it disconnected.
 

ManofGod

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So, it depends on the type of corruption you're seeing. If you're seeing this very often (like, many l times per week), and it involves glitchy colors of all types, this may be your GPU or the screen. If changing drivers fixed it, then there's nothing wrong with the screen, but with the drivers you were using.

However, many people seem to not know that when updating Samsung's UHD TVs (I can only speak to the 6x00 range), there is a good amount of blue corruption happening in the screen. This only happens when the TV is executing the update, for which it needs to be on to finalize it. Not sure why, but that's the only time I've seen that happen on my KU6290, and others have seen this too (I can't remember if it was a H thread or on the Samsung forums). Keep that in mind in the future, if you see those blue glitches, it's probably just a firmware update being installed. The TV needs to be turned off and on for the firmware to finish installing, so after doing that no more corruption is seen.
Changed the cable a couple of days ago but, it happened again, last night, when I got home and booted it up. Only once though and a TV power cycle made it go aways. Really annoying but also not really sure why it is doing it.
 

ManofGod

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Without reading through every page of this thread, is there a way to make the tv turn off when I turn off the computer and then back on when I turn it on? If not, manually doing it is no big deal.
 

bpizzle1

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So I added a cheap LED strip for bias lighting to my setup, and I have to say that I was actually impressed with the results. (Ignore the terrible cable management... I'm trying to figure out how I want all my Oculus stuff setup)

577D2441-31E8-414A-9ED7-A1BF5041C79E.jpeg
 
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bpizzle1

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Looks like you bought the curved unit, right?
Yeah. I was hesitant about the curve since I have it on my living room tv and find it to be useless outside of looking nice, but from this distance, having the curve is actually pretty nice. It keeps things in your peripheral vision a bit more.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Without reading through every page of this thread, is there a way to make the tv turn off when I turn off the computer and then back on when I turn it on? If not, manually doing it is no big deal.
Nope. Gotta do it manually.
Unfortunately no. The TV does have a setting where it turns itself off after a while if there is no signal, but it is not instant.

upload_2017-12-17_19-25-11.png


As you can see, the shortest setting on mine is 15 min (not sure if newer models are any different.

You have to turn it on manually.

When I first got it, I thought this was going to wind up being a huge pain, but in retrospect I have gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me much.
 

ManofGod

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Unfortunately no. The TV does have a setting where it turns itself off after a while if there is no signal, but it is not instant.

View attachment 46794

As you can see, the shortest setting on mine is 15 min (not sure if newer models are any different.

You have to turn it on manually.

When I first got it, I thought this was going to wind up being a huge pain, but in retrospect I have gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me much.
Thanks. Not sure I could ever go small again, now that I have this 43 inch TV. Sure, 28 inch monitors at work but not at home again.
 

dpoverlord

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HDR question,

I have it enabled with UHD color but when I am in windows and select HDR my screen immediatley goes from super bright to super dark. Have any of you gamers on here figured proper good settings for this on win 10?
 

thenjduke

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What sharpness setting do you guys have these Samsung 4k TVs set at when connected to the PC?

I trusted and stuck with the rtings recommendation to turn down the sharpness setting to 0 on my mu7000 for the first few days (where I was mostly looking at videos for picture quality) and I've just realized that the sharpness setting of 0 100% positively applies blurring/softening effect on the picture on this model.

I've now went back to the default 50 and that entirely took care of the text clarity issue that I had been very disappointed with before this.

I'm fairly certain that 50 is the neutral point for sharpness for this Samsung model or as neutral as it can get with some minimal sharpening effect (which I only notice on the settings UI) that's built-in to the TV.

I have mine set at 50 on my MU8000. I could not take the picture at 0.
 

gdourado

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Hello,

Any feedback here how the Samsung UE-43MU6179 works as a monitor?
Especially for gaming. Both PC and Playstation.

Thanks.
Cheers!
 

50Cal

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218
Anyone here having problems with their tvs causing flickering while in game mode? i have a 7500U and my tv recently started flickering while in game mode, but get this. it only flickers while in BOIS/POSTing or if i boot into safe mode. Once im at the login screen the issue disappears. I've tested other cables tested to make sure it wasn't the hdmi port on my card and no other issue. As soon i change the tv to PC mode the flickering stops. My tv is also running the 1510 firmware (latest version).
 

kniff

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So i just wanted to drop a little bit of info for anyne in the same boat. I've been using my 2015 Samsung UE48JU7505 (curved) since Summer 2016, and i figured i wanted to give the new models a chance. Went over to my local electronics store and came home with a Samsung 2017 UE40MU6195 (EU-version of MU6290/6300) for 500$ and started comparing the two, both are setup with recommended settings from RTings.

First of all, i understand the new model is more of a budget/entry-level TV and it shows, non-smart remote, more plasticy, the stand is very low-budget (not that it matters) and it lacks the Samsung connect box that the JU7500 has.

The conclusion is that the JU7500 beats the new 6-series for me personally. The biggest issue was the more aggressive anti-glare coating used on the MU6300 which made any destop usage and browsing look grainy and dirty, especially solid colors. The more glossy anti-glare coating of the JU7500 is much more to my preference.

I want to emphasize that i am very sensitive in this regard, i've always avoided Dell monitors for this reason and opted towards screens with glossy finishes.

Second, on these bigger sizes curved plays a major role, a much bigger role than i originally anticipated before my comparison. The MU6300 is flat and eventhough the size is smaller, the edges feels a lot further apart because it is a flat design and i feel this is more noticeable when using these bigger screens as monitors.

The upside for the MU6300 is that it felt to have somewhat richer colors, higher contrast and maybe a tad darker blacks and a little less input lag, which was somewhat noticeable but not big enough difference. I play on a 27" G-Sync 144hz monitor anyway, so this is not a big deal for me.

I returned the MU6300 the day after, and i guess for anyone looking for a cheap, big, sharp, tv for use as a monitor this will suit them well as long as they aren't too picky about the AG-coating which i feel is the models biggest drawback. It is after all, a lot of Tv for the money.
 

Commander Shepard

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Well, after trying several 4K TVs over the past few years, ranging from 40", 48", 49", 55", and 43", I'm back to a 40" MU7000 as my primary desktop monitor. For me, 40" to 43" is most comfortable for long hours working or playing on the computer. I hope Samsung or Sony offers a better TV in this size range for 2018.
 

Lateralus

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Well, after trying several 4K TVs over the past few years, ranging from 40", 48", 49", 55", and 43", I'm back to a 40" MU7000 as my primary desktop monitor. For me, 40" to 43" is most comfortable for long hours working or playing on the computer. I hope Samsung or Sony offers a better TV in this size range for 2018.
What made you move on from the 800D (or was it the E?). It's been a while, but I think I remember that being the one that you last posted about getting in the Sony thread.
 

Commander Shepard

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What made you move on from the 800D (or was it the E?). It's been a while, but I think I remember that being the one that you last posted about getting in the Sony thread.
You're right. I had the Sony X800D for about a year. I moved it to my bedroom after my 8 year old 1080p 24" LCD bit the dust last weekend. I really wanted the upcoming Sony XF85 43", but it won't be available in the U.S. Maybe Samsung will release a new 40" or 43" this year.
 

Domingo

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I've noticed an interesting quirk with the Samsung KS8000 and the new Nvidia 391 driver. Previously no matter what I selected for my input (Game Console, PC, Blu-Ray, etc.) the TV would default back to the "PC" setting when I was using my PC via HDMI. I could change the input to something else when an HDR signal was live or a video was displaying at 24fps, but under any other circumstances, the TV kept swapping back to the PC input.

That no longer seems to be the case. I've been able to swap to other inputs and they don't automatically swap back. Not a huge deal, but if you like using different color schemes or want to enable game mode on your PC, that's now possible.
 

gdourado

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Hello,
Anyone knows if the UE-49MU8000 does nearest neighbour for 1080p content input?

Cheers!
 

Domingo

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I've noticed an interesting quirk with the Samsung KS8000 and the new Nvidia 391 driver. Previously no matter what I selected for my input (Game Console, PC, Blu-Ray, etc.) the TV would default back to the "PC" setting when I was using my PC via HDMI. I could change the input to something else when an HDR signal was live or a video was displaying at 24fps, but under any other circumstances, the TV kept swapping back to the PC input.

That no longer seems to be the case. I've been able to swap to other inputs and they don't automatically swap back. Not a huge deal, but if you like using different color schemes or want to enable game mode on your PC, that's now possible.
Seems this was probably unintended as the 391.05 driver "fixes" it. Another weird byproduct is that it was also defaulting to another HDMI input. That's probably why I noticed it, because all of my devices use "PC" as their default. Nothing to see here anymore :)
 

FerrarisIV

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Hello to everyone :)

I have a very annoying problem with my new PC and TV 55'' (I use my TV as monitor): sometimes on the TV appear "No signal", I will show my hardware situation:

TV Samsung JU6800 4k 55''
Motherboard MSI B250M Bazooka
CPU Intel G4560
8GB Ram

Screen resolution is set to 3840x2160 @30hz (not 60hz because, I suppose, I read in the specifications of Motherboard it only support 3840x2160 until 30hz)

1. If I turn on my TV and AFTER the PC, "No signal" appear on the TV. In this case I have to restart my PC (restart TV or change HDMI source or unplug and replug cable is not useful)

2. If I turn on the PC first and AFTER the TV, everything ALWAYS works right

But please note: if I turn off TV and PC and in less than 15/20 minutes I restart them, is not important if I turn on TV BEFORE the PC, everything works fine in this case.


So the problem persist ONLY when more than 15/20 minutes are spent and I turn on FIRST my TV. It sounds like that the TV, after that time, reset something that I cannot wake up if I restart the PC after the tv

I also tried to set the screen resolution of my PC to 1980x1200 @60hz: same problem.
Or changing UHD color settings and Istant On/Off on the TV: no useful results

Have somene some ideas? Can be the cable? Do I need of an external video card should improve the situation? Or it is a problem (bug) of Samsung TV?

ps: both TV and PC have last firmware and drivers installed
 

Zarathustra[H]

I Complain about Everything
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Hello to everyone :)

I have a very annoying problem with my new PC and TV 55'' (I use my TV as monitor): sometimes on the TV appear "No signal", I will show my hardware situation:

TV Samsung JU6800 4k 55''
Motherboard MSI B250M Bazooka
CPU Intel G4560
8GB Ram

Screen resolution is set to 3840x2160 @30hz (not 60hz because, I suppose, I read in the specifications of Motherboard it only support 3840x2160 until 30hz)

1. If I turn on my TV and AFTER the PC, "No signal" appear on the TV. In this case I have to restart my PC (restart TV or change HDMI source or unplug and replug cable is not useful)

2. If I turn on the PC first and AFTER the TV, everything ALWAYS works right

But please note: if I turn off TV and PC and in less than 15/20 minutes I restart them, is not important if I turn on TV BEFORE the PC, everything works fine in this case.


So the problem persist ONLY when more than 15/20 minutes are spent and I turn on FIRST my TV. It sounds like that the TV, after that time, reset something that I cannot wake up if I restart the PC after the tv

I also tried to set the screen resolution of my PC to 1980x1200 @60hz: same problem.
Or changing UHD color settings and Istant On/Off on the TV: no useful results

Have somene some ideas? Can be the cable? Do I need of an external video card should improve the situation? Or it is a problem (bug) of Samsung TV?

ps: both TV and PC have last firmware and drivers installed

I think most of us are using these on Nvidia GPU's. This to me sounds like it might be an Intel driver issue.

It's possible that it could be a cable issue, as those tend to have rather unpredictable symptoms, but my money is that it is an Intel GPU driver issue.

Do you have another computer you can test it on?
 
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