As was previously said, but in nicer words, you will not be able to connect the speakers directly to your sound card. You will need a receiver/amplifier of some sort...is there anything wrong with the old sony stereo these speakers came with? If not, using a minijack to RCA y-adaptor to...
Well...I haven't tried it through any effects pedals because I don't have any, but I have tried it successfully with my electric bass - just get 1/4"->1/8" miniplug adapter and plug the thing straight into the mic in on the sound card. Turn on the +20 dB boost, jack up the mic slider, and have...
A little simpler would be to use a test bench DC power supply Like This one from Radio Shack.
This one (25 Amp) should theoretically be able to run a 250W amp by itself safely...which should be enough for a computer system, and it's not a whole lot more expensive than the computer PS's to do...
I've never downloaded or tried it, so I don't know how well it works, but
http://www.afterdawn.com/software/audio_software/audio_tools/streambox_vcr.cfm
might be worth a shot. google 'real stream capture' hits a few interesting discussions on the topic from other forums.
Otherwise, most...
I don't think I've ever heard integrated sound ever do well with powering headphones...
In my experience, a stand alone sound card will do better. If that's not an option for you, you might try:
1) A headphone amp, then jack the computer volume slider all the way up, thus hopefully...
He mentions output to an amp in the original post, so I figured that for similar money he could save the trouble. In addition, the receiver will decode AC3, which could be nice for movie watching and the like.
It looks like the ART DI/O is in about the same price range as a receiver, smaller...
Another option if you don't want to invest....
If you have Creative card, look around in the AudioHQ (in the EAX controls) and as one of the modes ought to be an option for Normalization - what this will do is bring everything to the same volume level... maknig quiet stuff louder, and loud...
That would probably be noise in the analog video signal. I'm not sure of a good way to get rid of it.
If you're willing to experiment, a line conditioner for your power supply might help a little, but I don't know for sure. There may be others out there with better experience.
Or else...
But for goodness sake be careful poking around inside a CRT...There are some capacitors and such in there that store a charge long after being unplugged, and can give quite the nasty shock.
Go to the window. Now look out it, down the sidewalk to the street. There should be a car just pulling up and stopping there. Now getting out of it are two men in suits. They're pulling a wad of papers out of a briefcase, now walking up the sidewalk to your door. *Ding Dong* "Hi, here's...
Wait a sec - reality check... If you're going to be running an antenna all the way from the computer to the stereo, why not just run an audio cable instead? Even the el-cheapo cables will sound better than the FM transmitter, and cost less.
And about what jpmkm said...the 50-15kHz is not...
Here's my take on getting an LCD...as with most things, there are tradeoffs, and you have to decide what your priorities are yourself.
LCD's are absolutely gorgeous at their native resolution, not so hot at non-native. CRT's of course look decent at almost any resolution.
For doing CAD...
hack off the minijacks and solder on a connector to hook up to the internal pins on the mobo or sound card.
Or use them for something more creative...non-audio even. You've got at least 3 signal lines and 2 grounds.
Or you could rip the audio ports out and put something more useful...
Are any of the EAX environments or anything like that turned on? Is the sound card set up to output 5.1 audio? ...basically recheck every option in the AudioHQ thingy...in my expereince driver updates are notorious for undoing custom settings.
It will sort of work...but your power supply isn't really going to like the large power fluctuations...you might consider throwing a good Cap into there to help it out.
I've actually been doing something similar for a while just for the hell of it because I had the parts sitting around = $20...
Stereo minijacks are a 99 cent part at Radio Shack...break out the soldering iron and have a little fun before running off to buy whole new speakers ;)
I guess I can sort of see why you would want to do this...for example if playing a game and wanting to listen to music at the same time, you won't eat up CPU time playing the music?
The short answer is, yes, what you want to do should work. It won't sound quite as good as if you played the...
well...I suppose that depends on what kind of inputs your receiver has...if you have digital, use it, and if not you'll need a minijack->RCA Y cable, which you can get at radioshack.
From what I've read your sound chip does have an S/PDIF digital out you can use...though I don't know if your...
Up the process priority maybe? There are several places you'll want to try adjusting it...There's one just general winamp priority setting, there's one for the mp3 decoder (input plugin), and there might be one for the output plugin. Try raising it and see what happens?
From the original post, it sounds to me like your receiver fried, and that is the root of the problem. There's no good way to drive those speakers solely from the computer - in other words, what you need to do is go buy a new receiver, and then you can hook it up to whatever you want.
True enough...how about we leave him with this advice:
If sound quality at the lower bitrate is a priority, it would be better to re-rip the files off the CD.
If speed of performing the batch conversion is the priority, then transcoding is the way to go.
I would try transcoding one of...
Quite given away by the sentence 'Like reduce the quality?' that he wrote.
Goldwave audio editor is another decent option. It has a batch conversion feature that will do quite nicely to convert any file of any type to a low bitrate mp3.
Here's something you may need to watch out for when...
in the case of SPDIF, using a better cable will not usually gain you any extra quality. It can however gain you some reliability, especially over long-distance runs. Having the proper matching impedance ensures the maximum power transfer, and having better shielding improves signal to noise...
Rather than rapid movement for me, or waiting for a terribly long time, simply move the cursor off the image, then back onto the image, then hold the cursor still on the image for about 1 second. The trick is the off->on thing.