LG 48CX

elvn said:
Same bad track record can be said of sony tvs support, lack of promised features, and their proprietary bent. LG really stands out.
Click to expand...
Have never owned an LG TV. I will say I’m a little disappointed that of all manufacturers, Samsung is making the next oled panel. Every Samsung I’ve ever owned, from my plasma TV to my VA monitors have some *thing* that’s wrong. They just don’t seem to be built very well. Either there’s a dumb oversight to the display that makes it retarded (VA gaming panel that doesn’t allow brightness adjustments to be made in ULMB mode), or there’s an obvious corner cut on the build quality.
 
Mine is being haxored by the Gibson! Well, by the Carl actually.

z.jpg


 
jbltecnicspro pretty sure Samsung is the AMD 6500xt of TV manufactures they cut features to make price points fit the tv i can only imagine the next thing on chopping block is what they pick and choose out of hdmi 2.1 or hdmi 2.1a then cut # of ports which features it'll support and speed of each port.
 
Lateralus said:
What do you run your OLED light level at? And do you move your windows around periodically or leave them in the same position all day when WFH?

Either way, the good news is that their panel tech has been revised to be more robust since the 6 series, so your next one should fare better.
Click to expand...
Most of the damage on my B6 was one early, when I was running the OLED backlight at 100, now at 30. But there is definitely wear due to WFH, and other apps (the chrome top-bar especially) have done a fair bit of damage after nearly six years of constant use.
 
madpistol said:
I am interested in the QD-OLED tech, but you just reminded me of why I like my LG CX so much more than my Samsung Q90R. The Q90R has a more natural picture to it, which I really like, but I HATE the post-launch support. There are still many unresolved software bugs and at least one feature (eARC) which was promised but never delivered. Compare that to the LG CX, which has gotten amazing post-purchase support with continual improvements and feature adds, and it's no contest; if my LG CX quit working after the warranty expired, I'd probably buy the newest model of the same product only because I know LG is committed to their products.
Click to expand...
Yep, my B6 saw a new firmware just a few months ago. Say what you will, LG has done a good job supporting their TVs and fixing problems as they come up.
 
Lateralus said:
What do you run your OLED light level at? And do you move your windows around periodically or leave them in the same position all day when WFH?

Either way, the good news is that their panel tech has been revised to be more robust since the 6 series, so your next one should fare better.
Click to expand...

gamerk2 said:
Most of the damage on my B6 was one early, when I was running the OLED backlight at 100, now at 30. But there is definitely wear due to WFH, and other apps (the chrome top-bar especially) have done a fair bit of damage after nearly six years of constant use.
Click to expand...

From what I read the modern LG OLEDs reserve the top ~ 25% of their brightness/energy states outside of user available range for their wear-evening routine that is done in standby periodically while plugged in and powered. Primarily that, but along with the other brightness limiters and logo dimming, pixel shift, and the turn off the "screen" (emitters) trick if utilized, should extend the life of the screens considerably. With the ~25% wear-evening routine buffer you won't know how much you are burning down the emitter range until after you bottom out that buffer though. As far as I know there is no way to determine what % of that buffer is remaining. So you could be fine abusing the screen outside of recommended usage scenarios for quite some time thinking your aren't damaging it, and you aren't sort-of .. but you will be shortening it's lifespan wearing down the buffer of all the other emitters to match your consistently abused area(s).

A taskbar, persistent toolbar, or a cross of bright window frames the middle of the same 4 window positions or whatever.. might be the first thing to burn-in when the time comes but on the modern LG OLEDs I think the whole screen would be down to that buffer-less level and vulnerable at that point as it would have been wearing down the rest of the screen in the routine to compensate all along over a long time.

The buffer seems like a decent system for increasing OLED screen's lifespan considering what we have for now. It's like having a huge array of candles that all burn down unevenly - but with 25% more candle beneath the table so that you can push them all up a little once in awhile and burn them all down level again.
Or you might think of it like a phone or tablet's battery you are using that has an extra 25% charge module, yet after you turn on your device and start using it you have no idea what your battery charge level is. You can use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, screen timeouts, run higher screen brightness when you don't need to, leave the screen on when you aren't looking at it etc. and still get full charge performance for quite some time but eventually you'd burn through the extra 25% battery.

The QD-OLEDs are all blue and blue is higher energy to start with so they can do average screen brightness at a lower energy level which might reduce the change of burn in / increase the lifespan of the QD-OLED screens. However they have higher peak brightness spec for HDR so depending how much HDR material you are watching it might be slightly less of a burn-in/down difference as they would be back to using the higher energy more often at least in some bright highlights and light sources (though those are usually moving around dynamically in scenes). Some OLEDs have used a heatsink on the entire back of the panel too, which reduces oled heat at higher energy states which can reduce burn in/down rate but not all OLED screens have this.
 
Last edited:
elvn said:
From what I read the modern LG OLEDs reserve the top ~ 25% of their brightness/energy states outside of user available range for their wear-evening routine that is done in standby periodically while plugged in and powered. Primarily that, but along with the other brightness limiters and logo dimming, pixel shift, and the turn off the "screen" (emitters) trick if utilized, should extend the life of the screens considerably. With the ~25% wear-evening routine buffer you won't know how much you are burning down the emitter range until after you bottom out that buffer though. As far as I know there is no way to determine what % of that buffer is remaining. So you could be fine abusing the screen outside of recommended usage scenarios for quite some time thinking your aren't damaging it, and you aren't sort-of .. but you will be shortening it's lifespan wearing down the buffer of all the other emitters to match your consistently abused area(s).

A taskbar, persistent toolbar, or a cross of bright window frames the middle of the same 4 window positions or whatever.. might be the first thing to burn-in when the time comes but on the modern LG OLEDs I think the whole screen would be down to that buffer-less level and vulnerable at that point as it would have been wearing down the rest of the screen in the routine to compensate all along over a long time.

The buffer seems like a decent system for increasing OLED screen's lifespan considering what we have for now. It's like having a huge array of candles that all burn down unevenly - but with 25% more candle beneath the table so that you can push them all up a little once in awhile and burn them all down level again.
Or you might think of it like a phone or tablet's battery you are using that has an extra 25% charge module, yet after you turn on your device and start using it you have no idea what your battery charge level is. You can use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, screen timeouts, run higher screen brightness when you don't need to, leave the screen on when you aren't looking at it etc. and still get full charge performance for quite some time but eventually you'd burn through the extra 25% battery.

The QD-OLEDs are all blue and blue is higher energy to start with so they can do average screen brightness at a lower energy level which might reduce the change of burn in / increase the lifespan of the QD-OLED screens. However they have higher peak brightness spec for HDR so depending how much HDR material you are watching it might be slightly less of a burn-in/down difference as they would be back to using the higher energy more often at least in some bright highlights and light sources (though those are usually moving around dynamically in scenes). Some OLEDs have used a heatsink on the entire back of the panel too, which reduces oled heat at higher energy states which can reduce burn in/down rate but not all OLED screens have this.
Click to expand...
Do remember the B6 was an *early* OLED, before a lot of the enhancements to fight this type of damage were fully implemented. I'm *very* careful to specify that when talking about the wear I've experienced. But it is worth noting that long-term persistent placement of "stuff" has caused long term issues over a 6+ year timespan.
 
gamerk2 said:
Most of the damage on my B6 was one early, when I was running the OLED backlight at 100, now at 30. But there is definitely wear due to WFH, and other apps (the chrome top-bar especially) have done a fair bit of damage after nearly six years of constant use.
Click to expand...
Ah thanks, that helps put things into perspective. Regarding the WFH wear, I can't imagine the Chrome top bar or any other element doing damage unless left in a static position for, well, really long periods of time. Like hour after hour and day after day. That kind of constant static "abuse" is what it takes for OLED TVs in airports and electronics showrooms to show noticeable and permanent burn-in. So I was just kinda curious about how you tend to use yours when working.

Speaking for myself, I find that running most applications (I'm obviously not talking about games, movies, and most other sources of entertainment) full screen on a 48" 4K display is undesirable...as an example, I find reading forums like this one much easier when your eyes aren't scanning super long lines of small text that span the entire length of the monitor...not to mention many websites don't take advantage of the additional space and put the majority of their content in the middle of the browser window with huge patches of blank space or ads on the left and right. So I tend to run most of my applications in smaller-than-full-screen windows that I juggle depending on what I'm doing. When WFH I am constantly shuffling between a mix of browsers, RDP sessions, password managers, document editors, etc. so I tend to keep each window sized roughly anywhere from 27"-32"-40" and I also tend to move them around a bit as I'm working so nothing stays in a static position for hours. Between the fact that I switch between so many applications and I also move things around a bit as I'm working, I don't worry much about wear.

I imagine that if I was a programmer or worked in finance, I'd use it in much the same way. I can't imagine that running a full screen IDE or Excel window would be very desirable on a 48" so I'd likely run them as smaller windows in conjunction with other applications that I used so that nothing stays in one spot for a ridiculous amount of time. I guess there might be folks that want to use the display to run the same 4 applications that when combined are full screen (one in each quadrant, like Chrome in top left, stock ticker in top right, Outlook in bottom left, something else in bottom right) or split up in any number of other ways but that's just not how I, personally, have ever worked or desire to work. There's nothing wrong with that if that's what someone finds works best for them, but if you're going to do that on an OLED you just need to be aware of how it might affect things long term.

elvn said:
The buffer seems like a decent system for increasing OLED screen's lifespan considering what we have for now. It's like having a huge array of candles that all burn down unevenly - but with 25% more candle beneath the table so that you can push them all up a little once in awhile and burn them all down level again.
Click to expand...
Haha, I've seen you talk about this 25% reserved buffer before, but IMO that candle analogy really does a great job of helping people understand how it works. That's probably the simplest explanation I've seen yet, so thanks. :)

gamerk2 said:
Do remember the B6 was an *early* OLED, before a lot of the enhancements to fight this type of damage were fully implemented. I'm *very* careful to specify that when talking about the wear I've experienced. But it is worth noting that long-term persistent placement of "stuff" has caused long term issues over a 6+ year timespan.
Click to expand...
And I think that's reasonable. Few who have kept up with this technology should be surprised that the early 6 series panel that was more susceptible to burn-in, combined with the 100 OLED backlight level, combined with long-term persistent placement of stuff resulted in noticeable wear. Had any one of those factors been different from the get-go, your panel likely would have fared a lot better. Lessons learned and all that. Still, 6 years with much of that being worst-case usage isn't terrible and like I said earlier (and you surely know by now), your next one should do a lot better even if you change -nothing- about how you use your applications and you start off with a lower OLED backlight level on the more refined/robust panel tech that they're using today.
 
Lateralus said:
And I think that's reasonable. Few who have kept up with this technology should be surprised that the early 6 series panel that was more susceptible to burn-in, combined with the 100 OLED backlight level, combined with long-term persistent placement of stuff resulted in noticeable wear. Had any one of those factors been different from the get-go, your panel likely would have fared a lot better. Lessons learned and all that. Still, 6 years with much of that being worst-case usage isn't terrible and like I said earlier (and you surely know by now), your next one should do a lot better even if you change -nothing- about how you use your applications and you start off with a lower OLED backlight level on the more refined/robust panel tech that they're using today.
Click to expand...
Oh, I agree. And I try to share my experiences with everyone so they avoid making mistakes down the road.

Also note I am a *very* heavy user; 12+ hours a day for six years. So I'm basically OLEDs "worst case" user.
 
i don't even turn off my OLED lately, when I leave the PC for an hour or so with windows all over the display. There is visible temporary burn-in afterwards but it disappears in use or when the OLED is turned off. Really, the burn-in is not a problem, at all.
 
Murzilka said:
i don't even turn off my OLED lately, when I leave the PC for an hour or so with windows all over the display. There is visible temporary burn-in afterwards but it disappears in use or when the OLED is turned off. Really, the burn-in is not a problem, at all.
Click to expand...
I'm at 6088 hours of powered on time now, zero burnin.
 
mirkendargen said:
I'm at 6088 hours of powered on time now, zero burnin.
Click to expand...
My 55C7 was perfect (no burnin) until 8000 hour mark or so (at 100 OLED and contrast). By 14,000 hours when I replaced it with 48C1 it was noticeably less bright in the center. The red went first, then green, then blue. The white went last.
 
Murzilka said:
i don't even turn off my OLED lately, when I leave the PC for an hour or so with windows all over the display. There is visible temporary burn-in afterwards but it disappears in use or when the OLED is turned off. Really, the burn-in is not a problem, at all.
Click to expand...
I'd caution against this, but to each his own.
mirkendargen said:
I'm at 6088 hours of powered on time now, zero burnin.
Click to expand...
Is there a way to check? Would be interesting to see what I'm at.
 
gamerk2 said:
I'd caution against this, but to each his own.

Is there a way to check? Would be interesting to see what I'm at.
Click to expand...
Check the powered on time? Or check for burnin? To check the powered on time, it's in Support->TV Information. To check for burnin I look at full screen color images, and use a colorimeter to measure peak brightness on a few 10% windows on the screen. It's still the same peak brightness as the first time I calibrated it.
 
mirkendargen said:
Check the powered on time? Or check for burnin? To check the powered on time, it's in Support->TV Information. To check for burnin I look at full screen color images, and use a colorimeter to measure peak brightness on a few 10% windows on the screen. It's still the same peak brightness as the first time I calibrated it.
Click to expand...
I don't got that, but my B6 is old.
 
There is no powered on time information on EU sets like mine, IDK why... But with a bit of math and knowing the big pixel refresh runs every 2k hours I know I'm getting close to 5k hours now (and yes it looks perfect, but 20 OLED light in a dark room).
 
ssj3rd said:
There definitely is:
Just go to the Service Menu, there you can easily read the time.
Click to expand...

Ok, you mean the secret menu for which you need a different remote or an Android phone with an app. Well I don't have any of that so I'm out of luck right now. Not a big deal anyway but thanks for the info.
 
kalston said:
Ok, you mean the secret menu for which you need a different remote or an Android phone with an app. Well I don't have any of that so I'm out of luck right now.
Click to expand...
Just buy a LG remote at Amazon (Price about 7$).
 
Doing some back of the envelope math, my B6 is almost certainly north of 15,000 hours by now. It's averaging well north of 10 hours/day for the better part of 5 years now.

I actually have the LG service app (or did once upon a time); I'll take a look if I have some free time and see if anything is hidden there on my B6. [I used it way back when the Pixel Shifter couldn't be manually disabled]
 
Perscitus said:
The DP1.4 to HDMI 2.1a adapters have come a long way from where they were a year plus ago.

I recently picked up the alternative to Club3D (which I used and returned a year or more ago)
and my aging RTX2060S now perfectly outputs 4K RGB VESA at 10/12bit and 120Hz with 10bit Temporal Dithering enabled.
Click to expand...

Could you link to the adapter? Plug-and-play, or did you have to mess with CRU settings to get a stable picture?
 
madpistol said:
You gotta pump those numbers up!!!

I just checked my CX 55, and I'm at 9100+ hours. No burn-in, even for work use.
Click to expand...

Exactly. People quoting numbers less than 5000, I mean thats nice and all but I put about 4500 hrs on my primary display device per year. For a desktop replacement I want to hear about the numbers in the 10 to 15 to 20K range... when being used as a general display, not just a media consumption display....
 
I'm surprised that's all I'm at. I run that thing as my desktop about 8 hours a night when I'm home. Admittedly I've been away quite a few days lately, but on the whole I'm using the dang thing a LOT. I suppose it would be a lot more if all my daytime office system use was on it too and not just part of it.

But all in all, I'm certainly not babying it. Played a bunch of Rocket League last night, did a lot of forum reading, youtube videos, watched several episodes of Fett in HDR...

Very surprised there's not more hours than that on it yet. Oh well, guess it just means I might get a decade out of it after all. :)
 
CajunAzn said:
Could you link to the adapter? Plug-and-play, or did you have to mess with CRU settings to get a stable picture?
Click to expand...
It's the UpTab DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 active adapter... no messing with CRU needed (although I messed with it after the fact anyway just for s&g). And didn't even need the latest 1.5 firmware they recently posted on their website (which I also subsequently applied and still have good signal and resolution switching).

It doesn't do VRR yet (maybe ever), seems to have lost Gsync (its supposed to work but I cant get it enabled), yet HDR and Win11 AutoHDR work fine (although I turn both off and let mpcvr in MPC-BE do its thing). Good enough for me.

UPTab DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B6ZOMI...t_i_V0VCJ0EJMG81MYS8NJT4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Since we had some talk about product support, I'll now let everyone know my B6P just received a firmware update. No idea what's in it, but LG if nothing else continues to put out the occasional firmware drop.
 
gamerk2 said:
Since we had some talk about product support, I'll now let everyone know my B6P just received a firmware update. No idea what's in it, but LG if nothing else continues to put out the occasional firmware drop.
Click to expand...

Probably just security updates, these TV's are connected to the internet after all. Still wish LG would at least put out some specifics every time they release a firmware update rather than just "Some bug fixes".

 
MistaSparkul said:
Probably just security updates, these TV's are connected to the internet after all. Still wish LG would at least put out some specifics every time they release a firmware update rather than just "Some bug fixes".
Click to expand...
Better security updates then no security updates. How many other manufactures would just not even bother with 6 year old TVs?
 
What's the fastest way to switch between inputs on the CX? When I have my laptop hooked up I'm always fumbling with the remote to go back and forth. Is the only other option voice commands?
 
Talon Blackrazor said:
What's the fastest way to switch between inputs on the CX? When I have my laptop hooked up I'm always fumbling with the remote to go back and forth. Is the only other option voice commands?
Click to expand...
I don't know if it is fast per se, but since I have a 65 C9 and two 48 CX on my desk I use LG's app on my phone to power on and switch inputs. The app also monitors my refrigerator so that is a plus.
 
Talon Blackrazor said:
What's the fastest way to switch between inputs on the CX? When I have my laptop hooked up I'm always fumbling with the remote to go back and forth. Is the only other option voice commands?
Click to expand...


You can dig in the settings so that the main menu doesn't pop up on home I think. You can also remove inputs you aren't using so that there are fewer to select from (you can always add them back).

You can use the home button and then mouse pointer over to the input square for the named input you want on the bottom of the screen (they are large cell squares you click) but it's easier to just hit the input button. When you hit the input button on the right side of the wheel on the remote (it looks like a plug on a wire) - all of the available inputs will be show on the bottom in big squares you can activate. Wand over or wheel-directional over to the input and click it with the wheel button. It helps if you named all of your in-use inputs and remove the ones without anything connected to them.


------------------------------------------------------

What you are probably looking for is that you can potentially set inputs to the quick access buttons. You might have to disable quick start+ if you have issues according to some posts but people have had it working with or without doing that. You hold down a quick access button and assign it an app, area/heading, or input. The problem is you have to remember which is which once you assigned the buttons.

You can see in this example that the "antenna" input is listed among the options so the HDMI inputs should also be available there. I did set up my hdmi inputs there before but I never use them via the quick access button so to be honest I forgot that I had done it lol (just checked) :

http://kr.eguide.lgappstv.com/manua...ga/w35__control__magicnumber_k_u_b__enga.html

magicnumber.png


---------------------------------------------------

You can also enable the voice control on the TV and just hold the mic button down and say the name of the input you want it to switch to. This also works for picture modes.

E.g. <holding mic down> "switch to shield" (the hdmi input with my nvidia shield on it named "shield").. <holding mic down> "cinema mode" (or "switch to cinema mode" if you want to use full sentences).

E.g. <holding mic down> "switch to PC" (switched to the hdmi with my pc connected to it, named PC and also icon changed to it when I set up the TV of course). <holding mic down> "game mode"

It should remember what mode you had it on last. I was just showing that as an example of how you could further swap modes on the fly via the remote.

It's a google assistant so you can also ask it things like the weather or have it turn smart devices like lights on and off ( I have a "movie night" routine for example on my living room C1 that turns off all of the regular lights and turns on a bias light on the back of the TV). That functionality is redundant if you already have a google assistant, echo/alexa in the room always listening for commands though.

I did try to set up the LG TV app to link to google assistant so that I could turn the TV on and off by voice via my stand alone google assistant unit but I could never get it to work unfortunately. Looking up the issue online it appears I'm not alone.

I chose to put a quality grey fairly stiff but soft foam-like disc bumper pad button on my mic button using a tiny dot of gel super glue so that it is very easy to access blindly. The LG remote can control my shield menu but I like the 2019 shield's remote too (it can control my receiver volume as well and it has it's own mic button for search functionality). So I usually keep both handy. I use the LG remote mostly for swapping inputs, changing modes, and most often doing the "turn off the lights" which is two clicks via the quick menu (not the quick access quick buttons unfortunately) or via the mic using the voice command "turn off the screen" when I'm away from the screen or paused and then back on with a click of the directional wheel.

....................

You can also use your phone as others pointed out.

.....................

Using the remote's menu is quick enough once you know the buttons though imo. Input button --> mouse over the bottom ribbon of input cell buttons ->> click. Name the inputs ahead of time and remove ones you aren't using so it will be easier to choose between inputs. I always have the remote handy so I can do the "Turn off the lights" trick and wake it back up instantly anyway.
 
Last edited:
Talon Blackrazor said:
What's the fastest way to switch between inputs on the CX? When I have my laptop hooked up I'm always fumbling with the remote to go back and forth. Is the only other option voice commands?
Click to expand...
I just use the remote on my B6; can't imagine that has changed much.
 
Yeah there are several ways. The fastest is probably setting the quick access keypad buttons on the remote to hdmi inputs. Then you just press a number button on the keypad down to switch. You just have to remember which is which.

The voice control is probably the 2nd fastest way and is guaranteed to be the input you wanted since you are saying it by name (after you've named it). It also allows you to swap modes quickly without cycling through them. Since I bumper padded the mic button I can do any of that blind with zero fumbling.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top