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LG 48CX

To expand on what I was talking about - it's a "metal rope" cable that is also available in a rubber/plastic coated type. You can get them at a hardware store along with some screw down metal cinch hardware and clips, etc. I have my 70" vizio VA tv connected to some wooden framing behind it with a few of these thin cables since it's on it's own shallow tv feet on top of a long tabletop style stand and I have a few cats who like to jump up behind the tv and stand on the window sill. I run the cables from bolt-like metal eyelets I screwed into the tv's vesa/mounting holes to other small wooden-screw style eyelets I screwed into the framing of my picture window behind the tv. I use crab claw like clips on the ends of the cable's looped ends that I can squeeze like scissors to release the cables from the wall if I have to.

What I'm suggesting for the 48" OLED is running a line or loop of this kind of wiring off of an eyelet screwed into the mounting holes and then black zip tying all of your cabling to that snugly, leaving enough slack between the zip tie and the ports of course. Optionally, use cable unions after that point as break-aways.

There are other ways to do it like attaching them all to something screwed into the desk or if the TV is actually vesa mounted, tying them to that mounting hardware, etc. The closer to the back of the TV and the ports you can tie/lock them in the better though.
 
peppergomez said:
Well this sucks. Yesterday the Logitech speaker system fell off the shelf and the cable yanked the Optical digital Audio out connector loose from the LG48cx. It is still working but very loose and it wouldn't surprise me if it becomes so loose that it loses connection. I tried to reseat it hoping it would pop back ino place, but no luck.

Can anyone advise how I might set it back in place? Obviously I prefer to not have to open the TV up.

Its hard to tell from the photo, but the connector is hanging down and loose.

View attachment 330671
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Having fixed TV's before I would take off the back and look at it first to evaluate. The plastic legs poke thru PCB and melted on back to secure it. Simply put a dot of non conductive epoxy to secure it again to the PCB as it still works electrically. ...Dont use Hot Glue please :)
 
Ziran said:
The LG OLED is not an ideal work from home/office monitor. The ABL itself can be a nuisance. In my case since I primarily used VNC I just made myself a 1440p VNC window to workplace and used it that way (leaving the rest of screen dark). In general for that usage an LCD will work better.
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Yes it is. Do some research and disable ASBL. You can thank me later
 
caffix said:
Yep, see my post on how to disable ASBL automatic dimming. I did this last year, and haven't had to touch it since I did it, even after multiple firmware patches. I've never looked back.
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Thank you (and others in this thread) for all the info on this. Your post was the last push I needed, just ordered a MKJ39170828 remote on Amazon for $8.
 
I just finished "Ori and the Will of the Wisp" (PC) in 4K HDR. Holy shit. This game is an epic masterpiece. And it really showcases an OLED TV features. Blacks are true black and colors are so vibrant and pop out. Pretty much smooth gameplay with 100 to max fps throughout the game (with RTX 3080 FE). LG should totally use this game to advertise their TV lol. If anyone hasn't played it, you should definitely give it a try.
 
Yup the original Ori and the sequel games are fairly old news, but indeed a decent showcase in HDR on any C9/CX and RTX2x/3x series card.

Metroidvania or the art style/story might not be for everyone, but thats for them to decide.
 
madpistol said:
Just had someone on PCMR tell me that the CX can only do 60hz because it's a TV...

I honestly thought that everyone that's a PC enthusiast knew about the CX and it's amazing capabilities, but apparently, I was wrong.
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The C9 has a native 120 Hz panel, too. Hope they got destroyed in the comments.
 
Porter_ said:
Thank you (and others in this thread) for all the info on this. Your post was the last push I needed, just ordered a MKJ39170828 remote on Amazon for $8.
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Done. Feels a bit strange to pay $8 for something, use it for literally 10 seconds, take the batteries out and store it away. But $8 well spent - ASBL is now disabled.
 
Porter_ said:
Done. Feels a bit strange to pay $8 for something, use it for literally 10 seconds, take the batteries out and store it away. But $8 well spent - ASBL is now disabled.
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Nice, hope you enjoy it disabled. I don't like wasting money and plastic/resources on cheap components either, but for the sake of using this beautiful screen without annoying auto-dimming I had to do it, as it was driving me crazy.
 
Sky15, New models not out yet but there will not be hardly any changes if any. The model similar to this one will be the C1. The big changes will be to the new G1 lineup. New processing and brighter picture.
 
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MrTX said:
I just finished "Ori and the Will of the Wisp" (PC) in 4K HDR. Holy shit. This game is an epic masterpiece. And it really showcases an OLED TV features. Blacks are true black and colors are so vibrant and pop out. Pretty much smooth gameplay with 100 to max fps throughout the game (with RTX 3080 FE). LG should totally use this game to advertise their TV lol. If anyone hasn't played it, you should definitely give it a try.
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Can you share your in game HDR settings? My biggest gripe with HDR is that there's too many things to adjust and I don't even know what's suppose to be 'accurate' and what not. And if anyone knows what the correct HDR settings are for Horizon Zero Dawn I'd appreciate some guidance.
 
MistaSparkul said:
Can you share your in game HDR settings? My biggest gripe with HDR is that there's too many things to adjust and I don't even know what's suppose to be 'accurate' and what not. And if anyone knows what the correct HDR settings are for Horizon Zero Dawn I'd appreciate some guidance.
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You have to do it by eye for each game, basically. I don't know what calibration tools Horizon comes with, but some are definitely better than others. Doom Eternal is pretty worthless, and I had to experiment to find out what led to a good picture. Battlefield V and Resident Evil 2 both include what I would consider the bare minimum to be able to set HDR game settings correctly.

For generalized TV settings I just use the same calibration settings from SDR, but turn the OLED light up to 100. I think there is an HDR mode for CalMAN and other screen calibrators if you need the color to be dead on accurate for your display.
 
A lot of games have HDR mode but don't really do HDR, and/or they have settings you can change but it just makes it worse.

The idea is you're supposed to be able to set the range of your TV's brightness capabilities and the game will render within those specs.

So for the LGCX you would set the low end to as low as possible then set the peak brightness to 800 nits and disable tone mapping on your TV. Then the game would render within that spec and you won't get any detail clipping or need the tv to do any tone mapping.
So for example if the peak brightness is set correctly you could stare at the sun in game and see all sorts of detail in the sun, but if you set the option too bright it would render the sun so bright it's beyond the capabilities of your TV and the sun would just be a bright blob with no detail at all.
On LCDs they can only get so dark so you want to set the darkness limit, but the LGCX can do true blacks (because it's OLED) and you don't need to worry about that.

A lot of games just completely fail when it comes to HDR despite saying they support HDR and having the options to tweak it. For example Cyberpunk which doesn't even do true blacks, and setting the range just messes stuff up, it's better to just use the defaults despite them not being great.

You could probably just leave tone mapping on and let every game do the maximum range and it wouldn't look that different.
 
sharknice said:
A lot of games have HDR mode but don't really do HDR, and/or they have settings you can change but it just makes it worse.

The idea is you're supposed to be able to set the range of your TV's brightness capabilities and the game will render within those specs.

So for the LGCX you would set the low end to as low as possible then set the peak brightness to 800 nits and disable tone mapping on your TV. Then the game would render within that spec and you won't get any detail clipping or need the tv to do any tone mapping.
So for example if the peak brightness is set correctly you could stare at the sun in game and see all sorts of detail in the sun, but if you set the option too bright it would render the sun so bright it's beyond the capabilities of your TV and the sun would just be a bright blob with no detail at all.
On LCDs they can only get so dark so you want to set the darkness limit, but the LGCX can do true blacks (because it's OLED) and you don't need to worry about that.

A lot of games just completely fail when it comes to HDR despite saying they support HDR and having the options to tweak it. For example Cyberpunk which doesn't even do true blacks, and setting the range just messes stuff up, it's better to just use the defaults despite them not being great.

You could probably just leave tone mapping on and let every game do the maximum range and it wouldn't look that different.
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Problem with Ori is that the HDR brightness slider doesn't have actual values so I don't know what is 800 nits on it. There's also contrast, shadow detail, some other settings to adjust. Right now I've just left everything at default settings.
 
MistaSparkul said:
Can you share your in game HDR settings? My biggest gripe with HDR is that there's too many things to adjust and I don't even know what's suppose to be 'accurate' and what not. And if anyone knows what the correct HDR settings are for Horizon Zero Dawn I'd appreciate some guidance.
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Tbh, I just use the default HDR ingame settings. It already looks so good to me, so I don't wanna mess with it. It's the first game that made SDR looks crap to me after seeing its HDR. Can't really go back to Ori SDR after trying out Ori HDR.

Horizon Zero Dawn, on the other hand, is kinda weird. In that, default HDR settings look good for ingame day time, but ingame night time is way too dark. I did mess around with the regular ingame brightness and HDR brightness & white point, but could never get both day and night to look good at the same time. It's either day look good (while night is too dark) or night looks good but day is a bit washed out. I settled for the latter because it's almost unplayable if I can't see anything at nighttime.

Edit: added mention of "ingame" day/night time, not real day/night time lol
 
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Jedi Fallen Order's HDR looked very good on PC. A lght saber, lasers and electronic things in dark ruins showed off HDR well. Now I'm running Nioh2 in HDR. I set the game's peak HDR brightness to 800 and it looks amazing. There are a lot of fires and torches and magic effects. Also very bright sunny outdoor areas and dark catacombs. The side by side of ultra blacks alongside bright fires and effects in both of those games look great.

What the TV does with HDR 1000 is it compresses ~560 to 1000 into 560 - 800, so with compression some details in the higher range are combined just like if you compressed a higher color range into a lower one. I don't think you would lose a ton of detail relative to what the LG CX is capable of unless you were compressing a much higher curve or if the game was just doing HDR badly. From what I understand the TV will always be doing static tone mapping to fit things within the TV's own range in curves set by LG. What you are turning off in the TV OSD is -dynamic- tone mapping which is sort of like tone mapping interpolation guesswork that is trying to tweak the HDR settings per scene on the fly which is not accurate (as opposed to DolbyVision or HDR10+ movies which have the tweaked tone mapping baked in to the HDR metadata, tone mapping selectively done by studio mastering people). So I'd always turn dynamic tone mapping off. Luckily so far the few HDR games I've installed have done HDR justice.

Regarding seeing at night - I guess it would depend on how well the game's HDR was implemented but I have no problems in the two games I mentioned. I'm not the type to make things brighter to see where I shouldn't be seeing "naturally" either though. In jedi, you'd hold your lightsaber over your head horizontally as a giant flashlight. In nioh2 you are making your way between different torches and braziers but I haven't had any problems with anything being too dark in those two games.
 
Murzilka said:
The article above mentions the production cost of the 42" OLED being lower by 33% than that of the 55" model. I assumed the street price.
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was mostly referring to the refresh rate. Price is whatever for me. It all about the size and refresh rate.
 
Murzilka said:
The article above mentions the production cost of the 42" OLED being lower by 33% than that of the 55" model. I assumed the street price.
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That rarely translates to price for the end user.

My hopes are that the 42" model would be an actual monitor, meaning HDMI 2.1, DP and USB-C ports, PbP mode while keeping the G-Sync, 120 Hz and other gaming features from the TVs.
 
Regarding the loss of signal issues with the 48" OLED and an RTX 3070...

In the Nvidia Control Panel > Manage 3D Settings > Global Settings > Power Management Mode

I set it to "Prefer maximum performance".

I haven't had a problem since.
 
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Seems Nvidia has finally acknowledged the issue with the Club3D adapter on any driver newer than 456.71. "Displayport-to-HDMI 2.1 protocol converter clock limited to 600MHz pixel clock [3202060]". Too bad it did not get fixed in the driver that dropped just today.
 
I would actually be interested in the 31" 1080p model, not for a monitor, but to replace our current bedroom TV. It's on a dresser in the corner of the room, angled toward the bed, and I can only go so big without completely changing the furniture configuration. I'm using a Sharp AQUOS right now that's been humming along for years, but if they actually bring out a 31" I'd be all over it! I hate watching dark/night scenes on that TV...can't see jack squat nor make out any details.

The 42" model would definitely be interesting for people who prefer that size for a monitor. Several people in this thread have wished for that size already.
 
Well, Nvidia fucks yet another thing up. It seems my CX 48" is no longer detected as G-Sync capable on the latest driver when using HDMI 2.0 despite that being one of the things supposedly fixed by the driver.

EDIT: Had to use DDU to reinstall from scratch to get G-Sync back even on an older driver.
 
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Lateralus said:
I would actually be interested in the 31" 1080p model, not for a monitor, but to replace our current bedroom TV. It's on a dresser in the corner of the room, angled toward the bed, and I can only go so big without completely changing the furniture configuration. I'm using a Sharp AQUOS right now that's been humming along for years, but if they actually bring out a 31" I'd be all over it! I hate watching dark/night scenes on that TV...can't see jack squat nor make out any details.

The 42" model would definitely be interesting for people who prefer that size for a monitor. Several people in this thread have wished for that size already.
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Same here. We have a TV that is in a built into the wall cabinet and it maxes out at a 34" diagonal for 16:9 ratio. This means a 32" class TV if we want space for the sound to come out.

Couch distance at that size means 1080p is fine and I would love the benefits of HDR in that room.
 
for those who run this at 3840x1620... are you able to set the color depth to 10 bpc? it shows the option for me but as soon as i set it, it reverts back
 
nutop said:
for those who run this at 3840x1620... are you able to set the color depth to 10 bpc? it shows the option for me but as soon as i set it, it reverts back
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so after farting around this some more, i think it's something specific to doing it via resize desktop. i manually added the resolution via registry and it works fine
 
My OLED started doing something weird - after going up from sleep mode, it puts all windows in a left top corner.
Did you guys notice anything similar?
 
phinix said:
My OLED started doing something weird - after going up from sleep mode, it puts all windows in a left top corner.
Did you guys notice anything similar?
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Mine does it too but it does not concern me. I believe it has something to do with the display handshake Windows does when waking from sleep, similar to what a laptop does when connected to an external display.
 
Nope. Depends on how many active displays you have though and how they initialize after waking from sleep, etc.
 
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