LG 48CX

Armenius

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The Club3d adapter uses DSC to allow 4k/120hz 10bit RGB from DP1.4 and outputs an HDMI 2.1 signal. It should support 4k/120hz 10bit RGB on the TV's, just no VRR.
True, but the LG CX does not support DSC, as far as I'm aware. You need DSC at both ends to support the feature.
 

kasakka

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True, but the LG CX does not support DSC, as far as I'm aware. You need DSC at both ends to support the feature.
No you don't. DSC support is only needed between the GPU, OS and the adapter itself. From there on the TV is thinking it is just connected to a HDMI 2.1 device.

The Club3D adapter works as a converter in between and uses DSC because DP does not have enough bandwidth without it to match HDMI 2.1. On the 1.04 adapter firmware (available from Club3D via email) it has worked pretty well for me. VRR is basically the only thing that doesn't work and at this point it's unlikely to be added. I hold a small sliver of hope that it will become possible as that would make it equal to a HDMI 2.1 port.

But for me running without VRR has been perfectly fine. My 2080 Ti runs most games at high enough framerates.
 

Armenius

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No you don't. DSC support is only needed between the GPU, OS and the adapter itself. From there on the TV is thinking it is just connected to a HDMI 2.1 device.

The Club3D adapter works as a converter in between and uses DSC because DP does not have enough bandwidth without it to match HDMI 2.1. On the 1.04 adapter firmware (available from Club3D via email) it has worked pretty well for me. VRR is basically the only thing that doesn't work and at this point it's unlikely to be added. I hold a small sliver of hope that it will become possible as that would make it equal to a HDMI 2.1 port.

But for me running without VRR has been perfectly fine. My 2080 Ti runs most games at high enough framerates.
Apparently it's an issue with GeForce driver 461.40 and newer.

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...e-46172-game-ready-driver-feedback-thread-re/

1614806285583.png


The pixel clock needs to be 1GHz or greater for 4K 120 Hz, if my math is correct.
 
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At the risk of going off-topic...

As I understand it any time transcoding happens there is some loss from the original because it's transcoding it, not re-muxing it. However I don't think plex is heavily downsampling the audio if that's what you mean. It's trying to just convert it on the fly but it can't do that as well as "re-baking" the whole file 1:1 by remuxing it in mastering software beforehand. Plex might also be transcoding the video signal somewhat if transcoding is active at all vs just passing through too.

So the reason I asked is because, while I don't know much at all about plex, I know a thing or two about digital audio formats. If you're transcoding to a lossless format, then there is no quality loss because that's literally (not figuratively!) what lossless means - no loss in quality.

Formats like PCM and FLAC are lossless formats (heck, PCM is straight-up uncompressed), AAC is a lossy format. If one were to compare it to image formats, then PCM is BMP, FLAC is PNG, and AAC is JPEG.

There is a teeny bit of a catch though in that it's only truly lossless if you're converting to the same bitdepth, sampling rate, and channel configuration as what the source audio is in (this is usually the most problematic when transcoding from lossy audio though as most semi-modern lossy codecs actually encode at 32bit floating point, so technically any transcoding would also have to be saved as 32bit floating point which support-wise is only well supported in PCM and WavPack, and even then decode support is poorly supported in anything other than software media players - in my experience most embedded devices max out at 24bit).

Anyway, FLAC for example maxes out at 24bit 8-channel but can handle sampling rates even above 192KHz (I've personally tested 264KHz FLAC in foobar2000). PCM can basically be anything however as it being straight-up uncompressed means you can just keep adding more channels, more bits, more samples, etc...as long as the source device can decode it of course.

There's also the issue of dithering in that it's not always clear, even when converting from one lossless 24bit format to another 24bit format, if dither is being applied or not. For true mathematical lossless-ness, you'd not want dither being applied if no other modification to the waveform is occurring (e.g. gain adjustment, resampling, reducing bit depth, channel down-mixing, etc), but even then the audible difference of applying dither with such a 24bit--to->24bit conversion is quite possibly going to be way below the threshold of audibility.
 
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elvn

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Forgive my ignorance, but is plex unable to transcode to 7.1 multichannel in a lossless codec (PCM, FLAC, etc.)? I mean, WebOS's built-in media player for USB drives supports decoding those audio codecs.


Maybe you're already aware, but WebOS supports some USB ethernet adapters which is a method to get upwards of 300mbps - the following one is commonly mentioned as being compatible (you can also find multiple mentions of people using it on LG OLED TVs in the user reviews):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU

Just because a format is loss-less, doesn't mean transcoding to it "live" is 1:1 (where remuxing it beforehand can be).

Just to be clear, I was focusing on the fact that the LG CX can't pass through DTS audio tracks. It should pass everything else through fine. Optical audio has a bandwidth limit though so like anything else it can't pass full hdmi audio surround formats from the optical port on the back of the TV. The TV's eARC output can pass full hdmi uncompressed audio formats.

This chart shows the bandwidth limitations between Toslink/optical audio, HDMI-arc, and HDMI-eARC connection types:

DLhSzp3ad5vzgn9TNWCYGJ-1200-80.jpg



My old receiver doesn't have eARC on it so I bought a ~ $150 sharc audio box that essentially "adds an eArc port" and plugs into any hdmi input on a receiver. The sharc box also has other audio breakouts - spdif/optical audio, analog 3.5mm headphone jack, L/R stereo "RCA" analog output.

I was still having enough hiccups on the WebOS plex and emby players to make me opt for blowing the $ on a nvidia shield. I'm passing the shield audio to my sound system directly (only the video from that source back to the tv). Nvidia shields can pass their audio over HDMI to a receiver, to an add-on usb audio device with breakout ports, or to bluetooth speakers or headsets, etc. avoiding passing audio through the TV at all on that hdmi source/input. You can do the same with a pc, connecting the pc sound output directly to something instead of the TV.. but HDR videos aren't quite as accurate to the source on PC even if you use mpc + madVR tonemapping to a madVR 1000nit curve.

-----------------------------------
Pros of using webOS plex client
... you already have it included on the tv for no extra cost. Seems to work pretty well on a lot of files though I experienced complete file stops or other hiccups at times.
.... works with most sound formats besides DTS
.... you can disable DTS in the webOS plex client and usually you will still hear sound from DTS video files (even if it drops a bit from 1:1 fidelity).
.... has full HDR metadata pass through for the proper LG HDR static tone mapping curve
....has some google assistant integration

Cons
......DTS drops the fidelity a little technically due to transcoding never being 1:1
......I experienced some hiccups, files showing truncated play times and stopping, etc.
......Library thumbnail view loads a little slower on plex. (Much slower on emby).
......The 10/100 ethernet bandwidth of the TV is greatly inferior to the shield's gigabit port (and also not full gigabit even with usb ethernet adapters)
......The usb ports are "only" 2.0
......There is no high quality AI upscaling like the shield (2019) for 1080p videos.

Pros of using nvidia shield pro 2019
.....Works with practically every sound format 1:1 including DTS
.....up to 24-bit/192 kHz over HDMI.
..... Full HDR metadata pass through (unlike pc)
..... No hiccups, stalling, premature ending videos or failed loads generally
..... Fast processor and loading
..... Full gigabit ethernet port
......Two usb 3 ports
..... High quality AI upscaling
...... can integrate with google assistant and/or amazon alexa
...... has gaming and nvidia geforce now (or steamlink, or even moonlight) game streaming over gigabit port but if using the shield to bypass the TV audio-wise via HDMI audio, the AVR will add some input lag.
......can run android based emulators
......gamestream can stream almost anything from desktop with a compatible nvidia gaming gpu
.......can output via usb to a usb sound device with audio breakout ports or to bluetooth speakers, headphones, etc. so theoretically you could still plug the shield into the TV and have that usb breakout or Bt audio input/device on for dts playback. You could even go from a usb sound device to a AVR this way avoiding lag from sending video through the receiver
......can use wired and wireless peripherals, 3rd party remotes, game controllers

Cons of using nvidia shield
.... have to purchase it for up to a few hundred dollars
....requires using another remote
....requires switching inputs on a AVR using the avr remote when bypassing the TV using a AVR
....requires switching inputs on a AVR back when using anything directly plugged into the TV again
....no youtube HDR hardware support since youtube encodes using VP9.2 (but you can run that off of webOS youtube app via the LG remote)
 
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I was still having enough hiccups on the WebOS plex and emby players to make me opt for blowing the $ on a nvidia shield

Was this with the internal 100mbps ethernet port, or were you using one of those USB ethernet adapters?

(of course, if the video stream in question isn't anywhere close to 100mbps, e.g. non-UHD Blu-ray rips, then the internal ethernet port only being 100mbps really shouldn't make an impact, but you didn't say anything about the bitrate of the according video streams you were using so I'm kind of just shooting in the dark here)
 
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kasakka

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Apparently it's an issue with GeForce driver 461.40 and newer.

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...e-46172-game-ready-driver-feedback-thread-re/

View attachment 335308

The pixel clock needs to be 1GHz or greater for 4K 120 Hz, if my math is correct.
Yes but you can just run 456.71 driver and it works just fine. That's what I am doing. In any case it's not an issue with DSC like I originally thought, just Nvidia drivers being shitty. I hope they fix this soon.
 

Seyumi

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Does anyone have issues running 4k 120 hz? I can't seem to get it set and have been running in 1440p 120hz.

I am running a new 3090 card, and figured it was my old XP Titans that weren't allowing me to get into 4k 120 hz, but I have the same problem.

In the ULTRA HD resolution section, 4k x 2k 3840x2160 (Native) has 60hz being the highest hz I can choose. In the PC section, I try 3840 x2160 where I can get 120hz as a selection, but I get no signal and it reverts to my 1440p 120hz or I can get 4k at 60hz...

Am I doing something wrong? Quality cables here....


EDIT:
I am running three of these in a triple monitor setup. I just realised the right side TV going into the HDMI port on the 3090 can do 4k 120hz fine. I have the other two going from HDMI through Club adapters into the display ports. They'll both only do 4k 60hz.

Any ideas?

just throwing this out there but I believe not all GPU HDMI ports are 2.1 on some GPU brands/models that have multiple HDMI ports so make sure your not plugged into an HDMI 2.0 one. If it’s like most models that only has 1 HDMI such as the FE then it’ll definitely be HDMI 2.1.
 

demu

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just throwing this out there but I believe not all GPU HDMI ports are 2.1 on some GPU brands/models that have multiple HDMI ports so make sure your not plugged into an HDMI 2.0 one. If it’s like most models that only has 1 HDMI such as the FE then it’ll definitely be HDMI 2.1.
I may be wrong, but I haven't seen a single graphics card which have both HDMI 2.1 and more than one HDMI port...
 

Seyumi

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elvn

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Some Gigabyte RTX 3090’s have HDMI 2.0 ports. Directly from the specifications on their website for one:

Output
Beat me to it. The aorus line has that. Unfortunately for the rare 4k surround user, you won't get all three at 120hz vrr hdrmi 2.1. However I use a hdmi 2.0b tv on each side for desktoop real-estate so those cards would work great for me in order to avoid having to use displayport adapters anymore. Though somewhat rare, dp adapters don't always handshake properly when turning on the screens. That really only comes into play if you are running more than one hdmi display. According to a reviewer on newegg, this is also true though:
"No HDR output to HDMI secondary display when you have display port display"
My side screens aren't HDR atm anyway and they won't be any time soon.

For me, a single 48" is more than large enough vs running surround gaming. You could run an ultrawide rez and sit closer potentially for racing and flight games. 4k is super demanding already singly and would benefit from quality DLSS in order to get 100fps or better at very high .. very high+ ... to ultra settings in order to get appreciable gains out of the 120hz refresh rate.

I'm still waiting on aorus stock/availability. I had one not only in cart but fully completed my order on newegg at one point with a "congratulations" and "please allow an extra 2 - 3 days due to covid-19" etc. Then later they night I got an email saying they had canceled my order to to lack of stock. So I'm not very hopeful considering botting, scalpers, and miners. Also @%@#$ that kind of virtual stock ordering system or order picking/scooping or whatever they have going on there. Also !$@#$ nvidia and resellers for direct feeding to ebay and amazon reseller scalping.... but like I said, I had an in stock item order fully completed and I still got robbed.

I still don't regret getting the LG CX though stuck at 60hz and no VRR on 1080t sc(s). I ran and run 60fps minimum on jedi fallen order and now Nioh2. They look gorgeous in HDR, espcially nioh2 with so much dark black and bright effects. The creature design is so well done. You can look at each creature in a gallery after you've encountered/defeated them. I never bothered with the gallery on nioh1 but the creature design went up a notch and they look amazing on the OLED in 4k and HDR.
 
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kasakka

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I still don't regret getting the LG CX though stuck at 60hz and no VRR on 1080t sc(s). I ran and run 60fps minimum on jedi fallen order and now Nioh2. They look gorgeous in HDR, espcially nioh2 with so much dark black and bright effects. The creature design is so well done. You can look at each creature in a gallery after you've encountered/defeated them. I never bothered with the gallery on nioh1 but the creature design went up a notch and they look amazing on the OLED in 4k and HDR.
I'm playing Nioh 2 right now as well and that game benefits quite a bit from higher framerates as it's more responsive to play since it's a pretty fast paced game. I run it at 4K 120 Hz with DLSS but since for you that is not an option, you could try it with 1440p 120 hz with image sharpening to make up for the lost clarity. Another solid option is 80% resolution scale with image sharpening. That's what I used before I could hack my older driver to work with DLSS on my 2080 Ti.

DLSS in this game is a great improvement as you get actual antialiasing. The latest 1.27 patch seems to crash at 4K for some reason so I have been running it at 3440x1440 1:1 scaled instead.
 
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elvn

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I beat "Jedi: Fallen order" on Jedi Master with the HUD removed which makes it harder technically since you can't see your force meter and health bars, and I'm doing well past several bosses in Nioh2. Both are ~60fps minimum, capped with RTSS at ~57fps. I understand how much 120hz can bring even aesthetically to gaming though and have been a proponent for a long time. I haven't noticed any bad tearing or judder, stutter when I cap games using RTSS and keep them ~ 60fps at least.

I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?

Incidentally, I heard 9+ days ago or the nvidia driver around then started supporting nvidia freestyle on nioh2. I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do. I'll have to check it out eventually. I used freestyle a lot on my 31.5" 1440p VA. The game looks gorgeous already imo in HDR 4k at ~ 38" - 48" viewing distance.

I'm on 1080ti sc(s) so I am not able to get a lot of the features even a 2000 series gpu can get right now. I'll just wait it out on the aorus gpu someday/someyear. I can always play through nioh2 again with a different build later and there will be other games to play (I got curse of the Dead Gods on sale at gmg for $13.50 after my 33% bronze member discount recently). Since I'll be paying a lot of money for the gpu I'm not willing to compromise on what I want (3x hdmi to avoid dp adapters). I already bought a nvidia shield and a sharc for this tv as well, partly to make up for some of the TV's shortcomings, so I don't want to buy a 2000 series gpu and a 120hz dp adapter b/c of scalpers and miners and bad supply chain strategies to gamers, etc. and then buy a $1500 - $2000 rtx 3000 on top of it It's getting stupid at this point.
 
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kasakka

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I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?
I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do.
Freestyle should work with HDR. I have tried 3840x1600, works fine but of course you need HDMI 2.1 or the Club3D adapter for 120 Hz with that as well.
 

elvn

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I have tried 3840x1600, works fine but of course you need HDMI 2.1 or the Club3D adapter for 120 Hz with that as well.

Yep I realize that and was just curious if you had tried that resolution thanks. I know I'm painted in a corner for now. That makes my canceled aorus 3090 order by newegg that much more frustrating but it is what it is. I'm definitely enjoying the game at 4k hdr with no judder or tearing at ~60fps solid for now.

Around 100 fps average (or higher) is what I consider necessary for getting appreciable gains out of 120hz refresh rate capability. Until I can unlock higher Hz and it's higher frame rate "requirement" I really don't need VRR and DLSS as much so until I can blow the roof off the Hz with the 3090 I'll do ok for now.

-----------------

Freestyle should work with HDR.
I did check to see if I could try freestyle when I bought nioh2 but only realized today that freestyle was enabled for nioh2 in a more recent nvidia driver. Jedi:Fallen Order and Nioh2 are the only HDR games I've played so far so I wasn't sure about if or how Freestyle works with HDR's "absolute" values.
 

ThisMonsterLives

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My CX has sometimes been cutting off in the middle of games (seemingly at random). Any suggestions? Otherwise it's glorious.
 
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My CX has sometimes been cutting off in the middle of games (seemingly at random). Any suggestions? Otherwise it's glorious.

Signal dropping or tv turning off? If signal drops I suspect the cable. Checkout the following thread to see a list of proven cables:

https://forums.evga.com/3090-FTW3-Ultra-Experience-amp-Tips-for-LG-CX-OLED-users-m3093822.aspx

I have the Pearl running on my C9 at 4k 120hz 12-bit RGB and it is excellent. Also picked up the monoprice cable but have not tried it.
 

sharknice

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This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070

Running the side screens at non-native resolution would definitely bother me in actual use. I care way more about actual function and performance, but if you prioritize external aesthetics over that you probably can't find a closer match.
 

hhkb

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This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070

Looks really nice.

Only thing is it looks like the CX is tilting forward. I'm not sure that tiny desk arm is a great idea. Maybe an Ergotron HX is the closest to something that would work. But I doubt you could get it as far back as this one, and monitor arms are always going to struggle at this weight.
 

kasakka

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This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070
It looks really nice but I feel the problem with this setup is the overly wide stereo image for the speakers. The desk also does not look quite deep enough for my tastes for viewing distance.
 

elvn

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I use an ergotron LX HD arm on a 43" samsung U6900 and the TV is pretty much too heavy for portrait mode. However I keep the 43 inch sitting on the desk surface so I can hang it up to 1/2 way off of the desk or more if the heavy side of the screen is on the desk end. This still allows me to adjust the screens a lot more and more easily. It also allows me to move the side screens to get at things when I need to. The problem with my 43" TV's is that they are lopsided weight wise and in relation to where the vesa mount is. Otherwise they might be fine but as it is they would hang/spin on the heavy end in portrait mode without using desk support on at least one corner on the heavy side/end of the screen.

For the LG48CX I'd get one of those big floor stands with the slim spine and just butt it up against the back of the desk rather than using a monitor arm. Currently I still have mine on the tv stand as it's not very high up but I'll probably migrate to a floor stand behind the desk eventually so I can sit the screen bezel directly on top of the desk.

Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/

Left, center and right​

  • Angular separation of left and right speakers between 44 and 60 degrees. THX recommends 45, Dolby 44-60 and the ITU 60. We recommend 45 degrees or slightly wider, tucking the left and right speakers inside the edges of an acoustically transparent screen. This gives best tracking of onscreen action to audio. Placement of speakers significantly outside the screen boundaries can sometimes result in a disconnect between sound and screen.

Two surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 110-120 degrees. The Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110. We prefer a slightly wider separation in line with the ITU that allows for rearward localizations when required.

Four surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 60-100 degrees for sides and 135-150 for rears. Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110 for the side surround speakers. Dolby recommend the rears be placed at 135-150 degrees whereas THX recommend both speakers be placed together on the back wall. We prefer the front pair to be level or slightly in front of the main listening position and the rear pair to be at around 135 degrees as Floyd Toole recommends in his book Sound Reproduction.

Nyal Mellor AUGUST 2, 2013 AT 4:00 PM
You are right on that in a 7 channel system you have more flexibility with placement of the side surround speakers. In fact you can have them at an angular range anywhere from 60 degrees off center line to 110 degrees. Putting them forward of the listening position (angles below 90 degrees) increases forward envelopment. Personally I think 60 degrees is maybe a touch too far forward but certainly 70-80 degrees I like and think works great.

With fronts for home theater ideally you should position the left and right so they tie back to what is happening on the screen. Some sources think you should have no more than 3 degree difference between the screen edge and the position of the left or right speaker. This puts the left and right either slightly inside or slightly outside the screen edge.

By angular separation of 45-60 degrees I mean 45 to 60 degrees between the left and right speaker. Measured off the center line that equates to 22.5 to 30 degrees. If you have an 80 degree separation between left and right then personally I think that is too wide.

Thanks and hope that helps!

Hi Andrzej and thanks for reading. Yes, as you have found out it is very difficult to meet every single ideal in terms of home theater layout. Personally if you have a 5 degree difference I would not worry. As for the XTZ recommendation, you can do that, but as I said in this article, you should try and keep the L/R as close to screen edge as possible for best tracking of on screen action to audio.

For me, 27" screens are way too small to pair with the 48" CX at it's optimal viewing distance, no matter how nice pairing them with a 48" looks when flush size-wise. A 32" might work but would still be a little cramped. I prefer to run native rez and scaling but currently I have windows scaling at 125% for my side 43" 4k screens (at native resolution) due to my viewing distance. I'm using 100% 1:1 on the 48CX though I only use the 48 for media and games.
 
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caffix

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Just commenting that I've had the CX48 since launch. It was and still is the best monitor I have ever had the pleasure of using for work and gaming hands down. Paired with my 3080 I smile every time I sit down and power it up.
Yeah, it's important to have a retrospective view on things. I bought shortly after launch, and this monitor stands the test of time - it's improved via firmware updates, is a much better PC experience when you disable ASBL ( ;) ) and when paired with a 30xx series or latest AMD, it's spellbinding.
 
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elvn

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I guess the only way to keep the Left and Right front surround speakers at the right distance when using monitors matched to the bezels on each side of a 48 CX is placing them either:

..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.

..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.

..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.


------------------------

I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).

I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
 

kasakka

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I guess the only way to keep the Left and Right front surround speakers at the right distance when using monitors matched to the bezels on each side of a 48 CX is placing them either:

..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.

..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.

..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.


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I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).

I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
Typically speakers should be spread in something like a 30 degree angle to the listener and set somewhere around ear level. Putting them above the display and tilting them towards the listener would be my choice. I don't know how well that works in practice but it probably does as it's a relatively common thing in recording studios.

I can currently just barely fit my big ass Genelec M040 studio monitors on my desk with the CX 48" on a floorstand right past the desk. When I move I plan to get some stands for the speakers for better placement. I tried putting my old 27" 1440p display in portrait next to the CX 48" and just could not fit it without buying a monitor arm to mount it. Would have run into the overly wide stereo image issues too as I already started to have those with the Samsung CRG9.

In other news, yesterday the TV popped up a "Pixel refresher will now run" dialog on screen when I was about to turn it off. Today when I started it it said "Pixel refresh complete". I am guessing I have used this enough to trigger some longer refresh cycle. My model does not show how many hours I have used this unfortunately.
 
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hhkb

Limp Gawd
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Just commenting that I've had the CX48 since launch. It was and still is the best monitor I have ever had the pleasure of using for work and gaming hands down. Paired with my 3080 I smile every time I sit down and power it up.

Yeah! I actually am thinking about returning the 4k 28" I bought for work. I find the OLED display far less taxing on my eyes for some reason compared to the IPS. Not sure why. It's just so easy to look at all day with minimal eye strain.
 

elvn

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Typically speakers should be spread in something like a 30 degree angle to the listener and set somewhere around ear level. Putting them above the display and tilting them towards the listener would be my choice. I don't know how well that works in practice but it probably does as it's a relatively common thing in recording studios.
..

That would work pretty well I think. The recommended angles vary. THX in the quotes below is 44 - 60 deg but Dolby Atmos in the picture below these quotes is 22 - 40 degrees with 30deg show as default.

Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/

Left, center and right​

  • Angular separation of left and right speakers between 44 and 60 degrees. THX recommends 45, Dolby 44-60 and the ITU 60. We recommend 45 degrees or slightly wider, tucking the left and right speakers inside the edges of an acoustically transparent screen. This gives best tracking of onscreen action to audio. Placement of speakers significantly outside the screen boundaries can sometimes result in a disconnect between sound and screen.

Two surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 110-120 degrees. The Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110. We prefer a slightly wider separation in line with the ITU that allows for rearward localizations when required.

Four surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 60-100 degrees for sides and 135-150 for rears. Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110 for the side surround speakers. Dolby recommend the rears be placed at 135-150 degrees whereas THX recommend both speakers be placed together on the back wall. We prefer the front pair to be level or slightly in front of the main listening position and the rear pair to be at around 135 degrees as Floyd Toole recommends in his book Sound Reproduction.

Nyal Mellor AUGUST 2, 2013 AT 4:00 PM
You are right on that in a 7 channel system you have more flexibility with placement of the side surround speakers. In fact you can have them at an angular range anywhere from 60 degrees off center line to 110 degrees. Putting them forward of the listening position (angles below 90 degrees) increases forward envelopment. Personally I think 60 degrees is maybe a touch too far forward but certainly 70-80 degrees I like and think works great.

With fronts for home theater ideally you should position the left and right so they tie back to what is happening on the screen. Some sources think you should have no more than 3 degree difference between the screen edge and the position of the left or right speaker. This puts the left and right either slightly inside or slightly outside the screen edge.

By angular separation of 45-60 degrees I mean 45 to 60 degrees between the left and right speaker. Measured off the center line that equates to 22.5 to 30 degrees. If you have an 80 degree separation between left and right then personally I think that is too wide.

Thanks and hope that helps!

Hi Andrzej and thanks for reading. Yes, as you have found out it is very difficult to meet every single ideal in terms of home theater layout. Personally if you have a 5 degree difference I would not worry. As for the XTZ recommendation, you can do that, but as I said in this article, you should try and keep the L/R as close to screen edge as possible for best tracking of on screen action to audio.

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