LG 48CX

I suspect AMD cards will work just fine as there are no bad reports on XSX or PS5. I really hope I'm not wrong here..

You'd have to make sure the console was outputting full 4k 4:4:4 chroma and be running rates at 100fpsHz to 120fps Hz the whole time to make an apples to apples comparison. Consoles typically use dynamic resolution ~ downscaling and checkboarding tricks to fake 4k, especially when the action and FX are firing or during long view distances where the frame rate would otherwise drop considerably. While the new generation has 120hz capability it will almost certainly continue to rely on these tricks. Even during periods where the games aren't dynamically lowering the resolution the more demanding games still might not be hitting 100fpsHz to 120fpsHz 444 4k which is where the LG CX's VRR stutters on the nvidia 3000 series (and perhaps from all 120hz 4k 10bit 444 hdmi 2.1 output sources at those rates as far as we know currently since the 3000 series is the only one capable of outputting it atm).
 
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Can you enable HDR for games but SDR for windows or do you have to toggle manually in windows?
 
Unfortunately the HDR situation isn't cut and dry in Windows. I prefer to leave HDR off on the desktop, set my HDR games to full screen mode, and then when you turn on HDR in the game it will kick on HDR on the screen only when the game is running and fullscreen. Automatic... easy... and SDR content will look best this way.

But, there are a few games that only enable HDR if the Windows slider is already "on". So, you have to just live with this and be ready to turn it on and off as needed in Windows, OR try to leave HDR mode on in Windows and get your SDR brightness slider set as properly as you can. I don't consider this ideal... but it's not terrible.
 
All HDR games have an HDR on/off in the game. It's just that some games ALSO have to have the slider on the Windows display options set to "on" as well.
 
AC Origins and Odyssey are like the only 2 titles that will toggle HDR for you in game.

Everything else requires HDR enabled via Windows 10 for it to even allow you to select the HDR toggle in game.
 
There's no reason to switch off HDR in Windows. Set the SDR brightness according to the formula I posted earlier and set DTM to Off or HGIG. This is the most accurate image and it looks identical to SDR mode. HDR mode also lets you view WCG images in the browser and watch HDR videos on YouTube etc.
 
Anyone test out the new nvidia drivers in hopes of stutter fix? Wishful thinking I know.
 
There's no reason to switch off HDR in Windows. Set the SDR brightness according to the formula I posted earlier and set DTM to Off or HGIG. This is the most accurate image and it looks identical to SDR mode. HDR mode also lets you view WCG images in the browser and watch HDR videos on YouTube etc.

This is what someone on the avsforum thread posted for people who want to toggle HDR for games in windows but if your method works without doing this (by tweaking the HDR desktop settings to look just like SDR apparently, while other HDR sources/apps still scale through their full HDR color volume) I'm all for it. Thanks.

Got the Shakes said:

Alright here is how I have this all setup:

  1. Install hdr-switch from here: https://github.com/bradgearon/hdr-switch
  2. Install Playnite from here: Playnite - video game library manager
  3. Import all of your games into Playnite
  4. Figure out which games need the HDR toggle in Windows to be turned on for HDR to work
  5. In Playnite for each one of those games, right click on the game you want HDR to automatically activate for, select edit, then at the top select Scripts.
  6. Make sure PowerShell is selected as the script runtime
  7. Under "Script to execute before starting a game" enter Start-Process C:\directory where you installed hdr-switch\HDRSwitch.exe NOTE: It's on the C:\ in my case, but my be a different drive in your case depending where you initially installed hdr-switch
  8. Under "Script to execute before starting a game" type Stop-Process -name HDRSwitch
  9. Click save in the lower right
  10. Repeat this for every game that you need to toggle HDR on for. I have found that it's easiest to create a text document with those two lines of PS scripts and just copy/paste into Playnite
Hope that helps. It takes a minute to get setup, but makes HDR gaming on PC so much easier at least for me.
 
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Bought in the 55 after seeing the Costco deal.

Was waiting until i could get a 3xxx series card, that still seems like a bloody fantasy to me. If ya'll have any pointers on getting one let me know. I am tempted to buy a whole system I don't need just for the GPU at this point.
 
This is what someone on the avsforum thread posted for people who want to toggle HDR for games in windows but if your method works without doing this (by tweaking the HDR desktop settings to look just like SDR apparently, while other HDR sources/apps still scale through their full HDR color volume) I'm all for it. Thanks.
I do not understand where the .exe file is for the HDR switch? Just has a page of text? How do I use this?
 
The github stuff usually has a releases click-able link on the right.

That one brings you here to the file release versions
https://github.com/bradgearon/hdr-switch/releases

I haven't tried this since I don't own a hdr oled yet and I'm not affiliated with it at all so as always, use at your own risk.

using​

  • launch this program (hdr icon will appear in tray)
  • right click - select hdr mode
  • launch your game / movie
  • right click - select hdr mode again to disable
now you can call hdr_switch_tray while it is running (in the tray) with a paramaeter 'hdr'

hdr_switch_exe hdr

and it will toggle it for you

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Bought in the 55 after seeing the Costco deal.

Was waiting until i could get a 3xxx series card, that still seems like a bloody fantasy to me. If ya'll have any pointers on getting one let me know. I am tempted to buy a whole system I don't need just for the GPU at this point.
Really happy with my CX48 even with my 2080S (waiting for the eVGA step up so can be months before I get my 3080)
I do 4K 60hz RGB HDR and since I do mostly Flight Sim and P3D 60hz with Vsync and Gsync is perfecly usable since my FPS usually bounce between 40-60FPS.
For FPS gaming I suppose it would be nice to go 4K 120hz but I can do either 1080P with integer scaling at 120hz at it doesn't look too too bad although I prefer the cripsness of 4K
 
Am I crazy considering the CX 55" for Netflix 99% of the time? Maybe a ps5 later. Should I be looking at something else?
 
I was interested in a 27" 1440 display. Then, I thought, "why not step up to 32?"

Then I found this thread.

Damn. Gotta do this. (I've got a 65" LG c9 oled. It's outstanding. A 48" for the computer? That'll do...)
 
Just remember... do not expect it to last -forever- without burn in when used for PC desktop use. Take good care of it, expect 4-5 years if you do your part... and if you get more out of it, it's gravy. Be realistic.
 
Just remember... do not expect it to last -forever- without burn in when used for PC desktop use. Take good care of it, expect 4-5 years if you do your part... and if you get more out of it, it's gravy. Be realistic.

A few weeks back when I was trying to figure out a solution fitting something like the 48" CX into my current horizontally-challenged PC setup, I came up with the following extremely unconventional idea that would allow you to effectively double the panel lifetime...if you're willing to sacrifice resolution and desktop real-estate (though this wacky idea should allow you to use 100% DPI scaling which could certainly help mitigate any reduction in desktop real-estate):

Myself @ http://reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/jbqttf/videocardz_asus_unveils_pg32uqx_4k_144hz_miniled/g8xnclr said:
It might be a silly-looking "solution", but if you happen to be OK with having a horizontal resolution of "only" 2160px, then what if you rotate the 48" LG CX 90 degrees and turn it into a 2160px wide display that should only take up about as much desk space as a 27" monitor?

Normally this would bork up text clarity due to no longer having vertical sub-pixels, but that can be avoided by just setting cleartype to off or greyscale (easily achieved via Better ClearType Tuner).


Heck, if you're OK with having a vertical resolution of "only" 1920p, then you could even use FancyZones combined with a black desktop background to configure things to primarily only use the bottom 1920px half of the screen, effectively resulting in an 9:8 ratio 2160x1920 display while still leaving you the option to use the upper half if you really need it

And then every year just rotate the screen 180 degrees and use the opposite half of the screen, thereby doubling the panel lifetime.


...of course, this all assuming you'd have access to a rotatable VESA mount (or at least one that can be screwed in and used with a 90 degree setup) that can handle the 33 pound weight of the 48" CX (and that's without the included stand attached - it's 42 pounds with the stand attached).
 
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Finally got home and set the cx up this evening.
It was glorious. The pixel response and black levels got me all teary eyed.

My 15 year old son tested a game with bfi and asked how many tricks he'd have to turn to buy one.

Its almost as smooth as a crt but a lot better looking than I remember them being.
Thats as positive of a review I can give.
 
Just remember... do not expect it to last -forever- without burn in when used for PC desktop use. Take good care of it, expect 4-5 years if you do your part... and if you get more out of it, it's gravy. Be realistic.
That's why you sell it after 3-4 years and upgrade to the newer set.
 
A few weeks back when I was trying to figure out a solution fitting something like the 48" CX into my current horizontally-challenged PC setup, I came up with the following extremely unconventional idea that would allow you to effectively double the panel lifetime...if you're willing to sacrifice resolution and desktop real-estate (though this wacky idea should allow you to use 100% DPI scaling which could certainly help mitigate any reduction in desktop real-estate):
This is IMO going too far. If you can put one at a reasonable distance, just buy one, set it to a low brightness, use other mitigation techniques. I use mine for work and personal use 8+ hours a day and so far no issues. I don't really think about it anymore, I am so used to just turning the screen off if I take a longer break. Very easy to do with the remote.

Looking at my current monitors, my oldest LCD is 6 years old. At this rate I will probably replace the CX 48 at around 3-4 years mark, maybe earlier if any significant development happen in monitors. For me those would be in order of preference:
  1. Smaller OLED with similar performance to the CX 48.
  2. 8K ~48" OLED with 120+ Hz support in lower resolutions (e.g. integer scaled 1440p, 4K).
  3. 48" OLED with Picture by Picture features.
  4. 40" 5120x2160 ultrawide LCD with 120+ Hz refresh rate and decent HDR.
  5. 49" super ultrawide 7680x2160.
  6. 240 Hz OLED.
 
What does HDR in windows/games actually do?
Google tells you that a HDR display is requird to use it and that it will makes things look better... but what is going under the hood?
 
NVIDIA is already on it's second iteration of AI upscaling with DLSS 2.0 (as well as pushing raytracing tech for titles that have enough frame rate with or without DLSS). I haven't heard or seen any examples of end user AI upscaling (or raytracing) from AMD or from oculus for that matter, though most major companies like amd, oculus, apple, and console mfgs are supposedly working on AI upscaling tech too. The point is that it looks like NVIDIA is way ahead on those fronts similar to how it forced g-sync/vrr to market. DLSS is a deal maker/breaker for nvidia vs AMD for 4k resolutions on demanding AAA games imo.

In this death stranding video, the frame rate is around 60fpsHz -70fpsHz without DLSS at native 4k with TAA and around 90 - 100 fpsHz with 1400p DLSS quality upscaled to 4k .. and that's with a 2080Ti. DLSS has it's own AA also which is cleaner than TAA, and there are claims that DLSS looks more like downsampling 5k so ends up looking better than native resolution. Also remember that still-shot comparisons of native 4k rez vs quality DLSS, as well as 60fps youtube videos.. often fail to mention that parts of a frame rate graph that are 100fpsHz - 120fpsHz and better on a 120Hz monitor are also cutting the motion blur of viewport movement down 40% to 50% from lower Hz's smearing blur and are nearly doubling to doubling the motion definition (5:3 frames at 100fpsHz and 2:1 frames at 120fpsHz vs 60fpsHz 1:1 baseline). You can't show that in screen shots and 60fps youtube videos.



FidelityFX CAS





Sony recently patented their own technique

https://www.overclock3d.net/news/so...reconstruction_technology_for_playstation_5/1

Xbox using DirectML
 
What does HDR in windows/games actually do?
Google tells you that a HDR display is requird to use it and that it will makes things look better... but what is going under the hood?
What we call sdr (and the srgb colorspace) were standards created with the limitations of the CRT technology.
When other technologies like LCD and plasma started popping up, while they were capable of wide gamut, higher brightness etc, they still had to adapt the old standards based on the CRT limitations.
Some pro products and applications used better standards, but not mainstream products. (Some failed consumer products tried to use wide gamut but were more or less useless).

Now that we are finally rid of CRT's, new standards can take over.
HDR standards are collections of wider colorpace - darker blacks/brighter whites, higher gammacurve. Looks much more realistic.
There are no drawbacks, and sooner or later HDR with be the new default and SDR will go away completely. SDR can also fit within HDR, windows has a HDR->SDR mapping that works very well, though it originally had issues.
 
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This is IMO going too far. If you can put one at a reasonable distance, just buy one

I don't necessarily disagree, but it's important to keep in mind that I came up with the idea as a means of solving a horizontal space constraint issue, and the idea of being able to double the panel lifetime was simply an optional side-benefit.
 
What we call sdr (and the srgb colorspace) were standards created with the limitations of the CRT technology.
When other technologies like LCD and plasma started popping up, while they were capable of wide gamut, higher brightness etc, they still had to adapt the old standards based on the CRT limitations.
Some pro products and applications used better standards, but not mainstream products. (Some failed consumer products tried to use wide gamut but were more or less useless).

Now that we are finally rid of CRT's, new standards can take over.
HDR standards are collections of wider colorpace - darker blacks/brighter whites, higher gammacurve. Looks much more realistic.
There are no drawbacks, and sooner or later HDR with be the new default and SDR will go away completely. SDR can also fit within HDR, windows has a HDR->SDR mapping that works very well, though it originally had issues.
So Windows will use a wider colorspace, is that all? it would need to be scaled down to srgb for most media/sites anyway, right?
better contrast - does that have anything to do with Windows/software or is it just down to contrast ratio of HDR displays?
 
I don't see what's so hard about using a second monitor for desktop icons and task bar, if one is concerned about burn-in. Most of the people who want to use the CX as a PC monitor already own one. Use that for your static desktop stuff and the CX as a "stage" for your movies and games, or whatever you're working on at the time. Just like elvn said. All it requires is some basic planning for your setup, and minimal effort to keep those static images off the TV. Totally worth it. Once I got comfortable with my setup, I cancelled my extended warranty. Not concerned about burn-in, at all.
 
I don't see what's so hard about using a second monitor for desktop icons and task bar, if one is concerned about burn-in. Most of the people who want to use the CX as a PC monitor already own one. Use that for your static desktop stuff and the CX as a "stage" for your movies and games, or whatever you're working on at the time. Just like elvn said. All it requires is some basic planning for your setup, and minimal effort to keep those static images off the TV. Totally worth it. Once I got comfortable with my setup, I cancelled my extended warranty. Not concerned about burn-in, at all.

I've mentioned this like 100 times and nobody seems to get it lol. Use👏A👏Different👏Monitor👏. Use the OLED for games/movies only. Whatever if people want to be scared about burn in and miss out on the OLED greatness then be my guest.
 
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What we call sdr (and the srgb colorspace) were standards created with the limitations of the CRT technology.
When other technologies like LCD and plasma started popping up, while they were capable of wide gamut, higher brightness etc, they still had to adapt the old standards based on the CRT limitations.
Some pro products and applications used better standards, but not mainstream products. (Some failed consumer products tried to use wide gamut but were more or less useless).

Now that we are finally rid of CRT's, new standards can take over.
HDR standards are collections of wider colorpace - darker blacks/brighter whites, higher gammacurve. Looks much more realistic.
There are no drawbacks, and sooner or later HDR with be the new default and SDR will go away completely. SDR can also fit within HDR, windows has a HDR->SDR mapping that works very well, though it originally had issues.

Still some major trade-offs still like compared to the "standard" of 1ms ~ 1px image persistence for "zero" blur on CRTs. OLED has matched or surpassed the uniformity and response times of CRT where LCD is still generally poor by comparison though. There is BFI but that isn't a good solution imo and is incompatible with HDR. We really need low latency, no artifacts interpolation to multiply a decent frame rate of ~ 100fps (even if hitting 100fps using AI upscaling) several times until we get 100fps x 10 on up to 1000hz monitors so once again we can hit 1ms ~ 1px "zero blur".

wider colorpace - darker blacks/brighter whites, higher gammacurve
It's not just brighter whites, in fact traditional screens used to clip to white when they hit their peak brightness values. HDR blows the ceiling off of that. It's a much greater range of colors in a wide color space that goes up through a taller range, and that range will get higher on future displays. It's like having a crayonbox of colored crayons with brighter crayons on each tierd taller row of the box. HDR not only standardized having a wider box of crayon columns, it has standardized having many more rows taller of brighter colors allowing a much taller varied range of brighter colors. Yes, brighter whites too. .. as well as a lot of rows lower on the dark end

So HDR is a much taller vertical color volume through a much larger pallete of brighter colors for more detail-in-color and greater realism via highlights, combined with much greater black/dark grey depths for greater detail-in-darks or detail-in-blacks and greater scene realism.

SDR can also fit within HDR, windows has a HDR->SDR mapping that works very well, though it originally had issues.
HDR movies are mastered at 10,000 nits in studio and mastered at 1000, 4000, or 10,000 nit on uhd discs. Video game devs can design games to map up to 10,000 nits since they are coded rather than mastered real life video.
OLED displays have to tone map since they aren't working on the 1000nit basis of HDR 10 due to OLED lifespans and burn-in limitations .. so they aren't perfect in that regard either. LG's OLED HDR tone mapping is done pretty well now though from what I've read, and LG now allows to you to experiment with tweaking some tone mapping options in the OSD to your taste too. There are some options that attempt to recapture some scene detail lost from tone mapping brighter colors for example. That would probably be for movie modes since you wouldn't want any extra overhead for pc gaming though.
 
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I bet there is NO chance this gets a deal on cyber Monday right? Amazon offers a free LG XBOOM speaker until 11/21.
 
According to LGD, the cause is the OLED Panel not the OLED TV set. Gamma for OLED is optimized and fixed for 120Hz by establishing a fixed charging time for OLED sub-pixels. VRR is used when the frame rate is less than 120 Hz. When the OLED TV uses framerates less than 120Hz, the gamma curve is inconsistent with the frame rate. For example, a 40Hz frame rate is longer than 120Hz frame rate. Therefore, the lower frame rates results in sub pixels that are overcharged, causing flickering of dark gray images, which is noticeable for dark images rather than bright ones, because human eyes are more sensitive to low gray colors. LGD will likely solve this problem establishing multiple gamma curves optimized for lower frame rates.

https://www.oled-a.org/lgersquos-48rdquo-oled-attracting-game-monitor-buyers_9620.html
 
What are yall running oled light and contrast in game?
100 / 100 is the only correct setting in HDR. Anything else is wrong.

In SDR, brightness is up to you, and contrast depends on your calibration. 36 brightness is ~120 nits.
 
FidelityFX CAS





Sony recently patented their own technique

https://www.overclock3d.net/news/so...reconstruction_technology_for_playstation_5/1

Xbox using DirectML

Digital Foundry has checked that CAS is basically just running at 75% render resolution and upscaling with a sharpening filter. Whole different thing from DLSS so unlike DLSS 2.x it is going to give you worse image quality in exchange for better framerate.

It's good to hear Sony is working on something similar to DLSS. The patent does sound a lot like DLSS 1.x though which is not so promising.

DirectML is just the machine learning platform.
 
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