Tekken 8

The trick to dealing with Jun is playing at range 3 instead of range 2 or 1. If she comes in for mixups I just power crush her. I do the same strategy against Azucena, when I see an Azucena abusing iWR 2,3 I just power crush it. I almost never have an issue anymore with Jun or Azucena.

The matchup that gives me the most trouble is Xaioyu and Devil Jin, Devil Jin is just absolute BS, and they seem to disconnect whenever I might win, so I'm thinking about only fighting bo1 with them and I always bo3. I've ran into a few very good Claudio's and Shaheen's that make me a little nervous in these matchups. Asuka is also being slept on IMO, I've ran into a few Asuka's that are very good with her to the point I can't get a round due to not being able to approach her. I'll probably have to practice this matchup again. I got demoted to Tenryu this weekend so I might have a little salt in my opinion.
 
It's always interesting when you play a random other player and they're in love with a move you've never seen before. Especially if it's a hidden gem move. Over the last couple days I've run into players using Paul, Law, and Dragunov and they were going ham with moves I'd never seen before...and I had zero idea what to do about 'em. Moves that looked high and hit low, stuff that hit me on the ground (but didn't look like it should), or even just moves that seemed endlessly repeatable. By the time I kinda figured things out, the game was over. You don't really see that in other games because the movelists don't consist of like 200 moves per character. It's annoying at the time, but it's also refreshing that you can express your personality in how you play.
 
It's always interesting when you play a random other player and they're in love with a move you've never seen before. Especially if it's a hidden gem move. Over the last couple days I've run into players using Paul, Law, and Dragunov and they were going ham with moves I'd never seen before...and I had zero idea what to do about 'em. Moves that looked high and hit low, stuff that hit me on the ground (but didn't look like it should), or even just moves that seemed endlessly repeatable. By the time I kinda figured things out, the game was over. You don't really see that in other games because the movelists don't consist of like 200 moves per character. It's annoying at the time, but it's also refreshing that you can express your personality in how you play.
It seems like some people go on youtube and watch a guide on "how to play X character". Or "which moves to never use because the frame data says so". And then they are stuck in a box.

IMO, while knowing framedata can sometimes be advantageous: if you completely ignore moves because the frame data says its slow, or because a youtube video told you to play a specific way, I think its kind of missing some of the point of Tekken.

There is a lot you can do with characters, in terms of "custom" combos. Bringing a new "mixup", etc. Personally, I think spending a couple of hours in training mode, simply trying different moves from the move list, is more rewarding than blankly following advice in a video, etc.

KingRey Jr. uses some of Asuka's longest wilndup moves, in juggle/combos. Moves which a video might tell you are way too risky to ever use. But, he found a way to incorporate them into a juggle/combo, so that the opponent isn't able to do anything during the windup. So cool.
 
Alright, here's my new peripheral for Tekken.

Its the Haute Board. Being sold on Amazon as the Borcham B16.
It runs on the open source GP2040-CE Firmware. So its got lots of options, could have more in the future.
The USB-C for the cable is on the left side.
On the front side, is a USB-A port, to use an adapter such as a Brooke, in "passthrough" mode, to gain better compatibility with PS5, XSX, etc. This is supposed to add no latency. Whereas running the main cable into an adapter which then itself plugs into a console, does add some latency.

I can't use arcade sticks at all. My brain simply can't use a stick for a fighting game.
I have been using my keyboard and prefer it to using the dual sense.
I am certain I prefer keyboard keys for the direction inputs Vs. Arcade buttons.
For the attacks, I would probably be fine with arcade buttons. But....still think keyboard keys would be preferred for my small hands. So I bought this Haute Board.

I prefer low profile keycaps on keyboards. So I bought these DOYS keycaps. Because, they are low profile and I thought they would look cool. And they do.

The caps which came on the bottom buttons for the thumbs, are actually low profile. They are fine caps. But I prefer the look of all DOYS. And the thumb buttons are positioned perfectly for me. So I don't need a longer style cap.

The stock switches are Leobog Graywood V4, by Epomaker. They are linear. For typing, I prefer tactile switches. I have to say, these Graywood V4 feel great for a gaming peripheral. They aren't as light as some other linear switches I have tried, and feel heavier than their specs say (40g). They make no mechanical noise. Only noise when bottoming and rebounding. And they feel smooth and positive. But, the bottom out and rebound noise----is pretty noisey. And being linear, they tend to press when i rest my fingers on them.


I bought some Gamakay Griffin "silent" tactile switches. I prefer tactile when typing, so I chose tactile. I wanted something quieter than typical mechanical switches, and these have a little bit less travel. So they are very slightly quicker to register a press. Its not a lot---.02mm. But, I can feel it with them side by side
The switches also have an transparent orange base. And the stems are an orangey brown. So they integrate well with these DOYS transparent orange keycaps.

This particular switch seems to silence the rebound, but not the bottom out. They still thock, but it is a deepr thock. And the mechanical actuation of the switch, as well as the tactile "bump", are also very near silent. Compared to my keyboard with Outemu Brown tactile, which have some mechanical noise to them as your press through them.
Apparently the Gamakay Pegasus also silences the bottom out. But, they are blue colored. So I got the Griffin...
Being picky, I don't like how the tactile bump feels on the Griffin, actually. But, it does allow me to rest my fingers without pressing the keys. Which is a bit more of a problem with the Graywoods (and linear switches, in general).

Overall, the noise savings compared to the stock Graywoods, is pretty good, actually. The bottom out has a deeper, rounder tone to it. And the rebound is way quieter. The poor feel of the tactile bump isn't as much a problem here, as it would be for typing. But if I don't like it after some real use time.....I may try Epomaker's "silent" Sea Salt Switch, due to how good these Graywoods feel.

For the video, 4 keys of the top right row, are Griffins. The next row down are all Graywood V4. Then next button down is a Griffin. and the right thumb is a Griffin. Left thumb is a Graywood. And all of the directional keys are Griffins.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VTqPm-Jxq4
 

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I've been thinking about getting a leverless hitbox clone, the one in particular is the Razer Kitsune, but I have like a decade of hatred towards Razer so I've been hesitating.
 
If you like the general button layout of the Razer Kitsune, some key positives I hear are:

Optical switches, with really short button travel = really fast inputs
Officially licensed for PS5. So, zero chance of a disconnect. Which is important to consider, if you intend to do local events or beyond.
Overall build quality is high and considering it is officially licensed, the pricing isn't as crazy as the sticker shock may make it seem. Compare to some customs which aren't officially licensed, etc.
They recently released an update for SOCD options. So, it has about as much flexibility now as some of the more custom stuff.


cons:
Expensive
Button layout, while fairly standard for leverless, is kind of dated
Requires decals or a "wrap" for custom graphics. Whereas custom sticks/leverless often have clear/transparent tops, to put printed artwork underneath.
Because its a big brand product and uses non-standard switches: Physical mods are limited, if any.

Unconfirmed:
Customization of button mappings and other things like that, may not be quite as flexible as open source stuff.
 
Alright, here's my new peripheral for Tekken.

Its the Haute Board. Being sold on Amazon as the Borcham B16.
It runs on the open source GP2040-CE Firmware. So its got lots of options, could have more in the future.
The USB-C for the cable is on the left side.
On the front side, is a USB-A port, to use an adapter such as a Brooke, in "passthrough" mode, to gain better compatibility with PS5, XSX, etc. This is supposed to add no latency. Whereas running the main cable into an adapter which then itself plugs into a console, does add some latency.

I can't use arcade sticks at all. My brain simply can't use a stick for a fighting game.
I have been using my keyboard and prefer it to using the dual sense.
I am certain I prefer keyboard keys for the direction inputs Vs. Arcade buttons.
For the attacks, I would probably be fine with arcade buttons. But....still think keyboard keys would be preferred for my small hands. So I bought this Haute Board.

I prefer low profile keycaps on keyboards. So I bought these DOYS keycaps. Because, they are low profile and I thought they would look cool. And they do.

The caps which came on the bottom buttons for the thumbs, are actually low profile. They are fine caps. But I prefer the look of all DOYS. And the thumb buttons are positioned perfectly for me. So I don't need a longer style cap.

The stock switches are Leobog Graywood V4, by Epomaker. They are linear. For typing, I prefer tactile switches. I have to say, these Graywood V4 feel great for a gaming peripheral. They aren't as light as some other linear switches I have tried, and feel heavier than their specs say (40g). They make no mechanical noise. Only noise when bottoming and rebounding. And they feel smooth and positive. But, the bottom out and rebound noise----is pretty noisey. And being linear, they tend to press when i rest my fingers on them.


I bought some Gamakay Griffin "silent" tactile switches. I prefer tactile when typing, so I chose tactile. I wanted something quieter than typical mechanical switches, and these have a little bit less travel. So they are very slightly quicker to register a press. Its not a lot---.02mm. But, I can feel it with them side by side
The switches also have an transparent orange base. And the stems are an orangey brown. So they integrate well with these DOYS transparent orange keycaps.

This particular switch seems to silence the rebound, but not the bottom out. They still thock, but it is a deepr thock. And the mechanical actuation of the switch, as well as the tactile "bump", are also very near silent. Compared to my keyboard with Outemu Brown tactile, which have some mechanical noise to them as your press through them.
Apparently the Gamakay Pegasus also silences the bottom out. But, they are blue colored. So I got the Griffin...
Being picky, I don't like how the tactile bump feels on the Griffin, actually. But, it does allow me to rest my fingers without pressing the keys. Which is a bit more of a problem with the Graywoods (and linear switches, in general).

Overall, the noise savings compared to the stock Graywoods, is pretty good, actually. The bottom out has a deeper, rounder tone to it. And the rebound is way quieter. The poor feel of the tactile bump isn't as much a problem here, as it would be for typing. But if I don't like it after some real use time.....I may try Epomaker's "silent" Sea Salt Switch, due to how good these Graywoods feel.

For the video, 4 keys of the top right row, are Griffins. The next row down are all Graywood V4. Then next button down is a Griffin. and the right thumb is a Griffin. Left thumb is a Graywood. And all of the directional keys are Griffins.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VTqPm-Jxq4

you know, i never actually understood these hitbox things until i saw this one with the square buttons and i went "oh shit, keyboard players!"....
 
you know, i never actually understood these hitbox things until i saw this one with the square buttons and i went "oh shit, keyboard players!"....
Yeah, and this really is pretty much literally a keyboard. But, without all of the extra buttons in the way. It uses MX style switches and caps, for keyboards.

Its too bad we can't simply plug a keyboard into a PS5. While it is for sure nice to not have the extra buttons----I mainly got this because I intend to go to some local events. And events typically use PS5. If it weren't for that, I would be fine with simply using a keyboard at home on PC. And maybe also simply using a keyboard for events.

I considered this product from Perfect Clear. But, I don't like the button layout. And that's more important to me than the fact it looks cool and supports printing your own artwork. It is also almost double the price.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1507955818/clear-pocketxt-v2-split-layout-stickless?click_key=e4bc44fc22ffad00f17ffb2041a88387199c20fe:1507955818&click_sum=9baae85a&ref=shop_home_recs_1&crt=1&sts=1

Most of the issue is that I would have to outstretch my thumbs. Whereas on the Haute Board, my thumbs are totally relaxed and natural. I have small hands. May not be an issue for larger hands.
And actually, I don't even use the left thumb (which is often used as "up"). I like the "WASD" config for directional input. But I do use the right thumb, as my "left kick" in Tekken. By default, that's the X button on Playstation or the A button on Xbox.
 
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I've been thinking about getting a leverless hitbox clone, the one in particular is the Razer Kitsune, but I have like a decade of hatred towards Razer so I've been hesitating.
For the price of one kitsune you can buy three Haute42 T16s, and they perform equally well (or even better if you prefer the location of the extra buttons). The main advantage of the kitsune is that it's always in stock (which honestly is a big deal around the release of any big fighting game when all the other leverless boxes go out of stock and you have to wait weeks (or months!) for a restock). (unless you don't mind shipping from aliexpress/china)
 
For the price of one kitsune you can buy three Haute42 T16s, and they perform equally well (or even better if you prefer the location of the extra buttons). The main advantage of the kitsune is that it's always in stock (which honestly is a big deal around the release of any big fighting game when all the other leverless boxes go out of stock and you have to wait weeks (or months!) for a restock). (unless you don't mind shipping from aliexpress/china)
Amazon stock of Haute stuff is fine, now. You do pay a fair chunk more than AliExpress. However, I have seen a lot of people have trouble getting AliExpress orders to finalize, instead of canceled. Not sure if its the sellers or if the buyers should have contacted their bank to pre-authorize the purchase in that country.

Amazon price is still a lot less than many other competing products. For example, my Haute Board (sold as Borcham B16 on Amazon) is just shy of half price of the similar Perfect Clear - Clear PocketXT V2 on Etsy.
Also, the M16 is black aluminum, if someone wants a stealth look more like the Kitsune. and the metal feel.

You do still have to pay an extra ~$50 for an adapter to make Haute stuff work well with PS5.

I think the big benefit to the Kitsune, is the official PS5 licensing.
 
T13 or T16? Looking at both of them, the T13 looks like an easier transition to lever-less from my Qanba Obsidian (v1). But T16 has the extra buttons, not sure if I would even map to them honestly since I've been used to either playing on my Obsidian or a DS4/DualSense. Is there any software required? That's literally my only concern, I hate when peripherals require software to function.
 
T13 or T16? Looking at both of them, the T13 looks like an easier transition to lever-less from my Qanba Obsidian (v1). But T16 has the extra buttons, not sure if I would even map to them honestly since I've been used to either playing on my Obsidian or a DS4/DualSense. Is there any software required? That's literally my only concern, I hate when peripherals require software to function.
Most (maybe all) of Haute's stuff uses the GP2040-CE Firmware. Its open source. But there is a semi-official branch which supports a few different, specific products. Haute links you to that. https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/GP2040-CE/releases/tag/v0.7.7
Some of the custom builder's compile their own slice of the firmware.

No software install.
To configure it, you enter an ip address into your browser----and it takes you to an internal config page for the firmware. Kinda like when you need to change settings on your Router.

Some features have hardware button combos which you hold while plugging in the device.
 
Most (maybe all) of Haute's stuff uses the GP2040-CE Firmware. Its open source. But there is a semi-official branch which supports a few different, specific products. Haute links you to that. https://github.com/OpenStickCommunity/GP2040-CE/releases/tag/v0.7.7
Some of the custom builder's compile their own slice of the firmware.

No software install.
To configure it, you enter an ip address into your browser----and it takes you to an internal config page for the firmware. Kinda like when you need to change settings on your Router.

Some features have hardware button combos which you hold while plugging in the device.
Perfect that's exactly what I want.
 
Feels like I'm fortunate to just be happy with a plain 'ol PS5 pad. Once I learned to play Street Fighter 2 on a SNES pad, it's been pretty seamless to play any other fighting game with a pad. In the case of Tekken, I played the old games on the PS just as much as the arcade. I occasionally hit the analog sticks by mistake, but you can totally disable them in the Steam menus if it's a major issue.
 
Feels like I'm fortunate to just be happy with a plain 'ol PS5 pad. Once I learned to play Street Fighter 2 on a SNES pad, it's been pretty seamless to play any other fighting game with a pad. In the case of Tekken, I played the old games on the PS just as much as the arcade. I occasionally hit the analog sticks by mistake, but you can totally disable them in the Steam menus if it's a major issue.
I use the PS5 pad half the time, the only thing I don't like about it is the d-pad, it's harder to KBD with it than the DS4 pad, to the point I don't bother doing KBD. Also the PS5 pad seems to randomly crouch and jump more when pressing forward or back, it has lost me rounds more often than not when this happens. So for precise inputs I don't think the PS5 pad is very good. It's good enough to play casually but once you're around blue ranks it becomes increasingly frustrating. I've had 4-5 Dualsense controllers, had this issue with all of them, so I think it is just a design flaw which is a bummer because I like the in-hand feel of the Dualsense over the PS4 pad.

I went ahead and ordered the Haute T13, should be here early next week.
 
Alright, here's my new peripheral for Tekken.

Its the Haute Board. Being sold on Amazon as the Borcham B16.
It runs on the open source GP2040-CE Firmware. So its got lots of options, could have more in the future.
The USB-C for the cable is on the left side.
On the front side, is a USB-A port, to use an adapter such as a Brooke, in "passthrough" mode, to gain better compatibility with PS5, XSX, etc. This is supposed to add no latency. Whereas running the main cable into an adapter which then itself plugs into a console, does add some latency.

I can't use arcade sticks at all. My brain simply can't use a stick for a fighting game.
I have been using my keyboard and prefer it to using the dual sense.
I am certain I prefer keyboard keys for the direction inputs Vs. Arcade buttons.
For the attacks, I would probably be fine with arcade buttons. But....still think keyboard keys would be preferred for my small hands. So I bought this Haute Board.

I prefer low profile keycaps on keyboards. So I bought these DOYS keycaps. Because, they are low profile and I thought they would look cool. And they do.

The caps which came on the bottom buttons for the thumbs, are actually low profile. They are fine caps. But I prefer the look of all DOYS. And the thumb buttons are positioned perfectly for me. So I don't need a longer style cap.

The stock switches are Leobog Graywood V4, by Epomaker. They are linear. For typing, I prefer tactile switches. I have to say, these Graywood V4 feel great for a gaming peripheral. They aren't as light as some other linear switches I have tried, and feel heavier than their specs say (40g). They make no mechanical noise. Only noise when bottoming and rebounding. And they feel smooth and positive. But, the bottom out and rebound noise----is pretty noisey. And being linear, they tend to press when i rest my fingers on them.


I bought some Gamakay Griffin "silent" tactile switches. I prefer tactile when typing, so I chose tactile. I wanted something quieter than typical mechanical switches, and these have a little bit less travel. So they are very slightly quicker to register a press. Its not a lot---.02mm. But, I can feel it with them side by side
The switches also have an transparent orange base. And the stems are an orangey brown. So they integrate well with these DOYS transparent orange keycaps.

This particular switch seems to silence the rebound, but not the bottom out. They still thock, but it is a deepr thock. And the mechanical actuation of the switch, as well as the tactile "bump", are also very near silent. Compared to my keyboard with Outemu Brown tactile, which have some mechanical noise to them as your press through them.
Apparently the Gamakay Pegasus also silences the bottom out. But, they are blue colored. So I got the Griffin...
Being picky, I don't like how the tactile bump feels on the Griffin, actually. But, it does allow me to rest my fingers without pressing the keys. Which is a bit more of a problem with the Graywoods (and linear switches, in general).

Overall, the noise savings compared to the stock Graywoods, is pretty good, actually. The bottom out has a deeper, rounder tone to it. And the rebound is way quieter. The poor feel of the tactile bump isn't as much a problem here, as it would be for typing. But if I don't like it after some real use time.....I may try Epomaker's "silent" Sea Salt Switch, due to how good these Graywoods feel.

For the video, 4 keys of the top right row, are Griffins. The next row down are all Graywood V4. Then next button down is a Griffin. and the right thumb is a Griffin. Left thumb is a Graywood. And all of the directional keys are Griffins.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VTqPm-Jxq4

I was trying to customize the button/pin mappings----and two of my buttons were "assigned to addon" and could not be changed. The RGB settings also didn't all work.

If you have the same issue or other strangeness, you have to do a "nuke" firmware, before applying the latest firmware update. Works great, now.

https://gp2040-ce.info/installation/#flash-nuke-process
 
No software needed for the Haute42 controllers, you just plug and play right into your PC and it works off the bat. (There is optional software you can use to customize it further)

As for the size, it depends if you want to play on lap or desk. The smaller ones like the M16 are more comfortable on a desk, the larger ones like the T16 are ok for either desk or lap use (might want an anti-slip pad for your lap though so you don't accidentally drop it). I own both and alternate between them, they both feel like quality products.
 
Eddy is now available. Having not really played the last few titles much, it seems like they've changed him quite a bit. He definitely has a lot of the same moves, but I'm not seeing the 3,4 kicks that seemed to go low a bunch of times in a row in the blink of an eye. Ditto with the 4, 3 back away kick that let him turn the tables on pressure. Not seeing the crazy sidestep elbow that led to so much damage, either.
I played a few (including one guy that already had 200K points this morning) and have been hammering him with King's elbow successfully. Glad to see that's still a valid defense 25+ years later.
 
...and this is why I wish modern fighting games would roll out new characters in groups of 3-4 instead of one at a time. I've played like 95% Eddy for the last few days. It's like 1997 all over again. I'm winning at least 75-85% of the time, but I don't even care. I never thought I'd be happy to see Victor and Azucena, but here we are. SF6 hasn't really had this problem since none of the DLC characters are particularly popular, but Eddy's a pretty iconic character.
 
Alright, here's my new peripheral for Tekken.

Its the Haute Board. Being sold on Amazon as the Borcham B16.
It runs on the open source GP2040-CE Firmware. So its got lots of options, could have more in the future.
The USB-C for the cable is on the left side.
On the front side, is a USB-A port, to use an adapter such as a Brooke, in "passthrough" mode, to gain better compatibility with PS5, XSX, etc. This is supposed to add no latency. Whereas running the main cable into an adapter which then itself plugs into a console, does add some latency.

I can't use arcade sticks at all. My brain simply can't use a stick for a fighting game.
I have been using my keyboard and prefer it to using the dual sense.
I am certain I prefer keyboard keys for the direction inputs Vs. Arcade buttons.
For the attacks, I would probably be fine with arcade buttons. But....still think keyboard keys would be preferred for my small hands. So I bought this Haute Board.

I prefer low profile keycaps on keyboards. So I bought these DOYS keycaps. Because, they are low profile and I thought they would look cool. And they do.

The caps which came on the bottom buttons for the thumbs, are actually low profile. They are fine caps. But I prefer the look of all DOYS. And the thumb buttons are positioned perfectly for me. So I don't need a longer style cap.

The stock switches are Leobog Graywood V4, by Epomaker. They are linear. For typing, I prefer tactile switches. I have to say, these Graywood V4 feel great for a gaming peripheral. They aren't as light as some other linear switches I have tried, and feel heavier than their specs say (40g). They make no mechanical noise. Only noise when bottoming and rebounding. And they feel smooth and positive. But, the bottom out and rebound noise----is pretty noisey. And being linear, they tend to press when i rest my fingers on them.


I bought some Gamakay Griffin "silent" tactile switches. I prefer tactile when typing, so I chose tactile. I wanted something quieter than typical mechanical switches, and these have a little bit less travel. So they are very slightly quicker to register a press. Its not a lot---.02mm. But, I can feel it with them side by side
The switches also have an transparent orange base. And the stems are an orangey brown. So they integrate well with these DOYS transparent orange keycaps.

This particular switch seems to silence the rebound, but not the bottom out. They still thock, but it is a deepr thock. And the mechanical actuation of the switch, as well as the tactile "bump", are also very near silent. Compared to my keyboard with Outemu Brown tactile, which have some mechanical noise to them as your press through them.
Apparently the Gamakay Pegasus also silences the bottom out. But, they are blue colored. So I got the Griffin...
Being picky, I don't like how the tactile bump feels on the Griffin, actually. But, it does allow me to rest my fingers without pressing the keys. Which is a bit more of a problem with the Graywoods (and linear switches, in general).

Overall, the noise savings compared to the stock Graywoods, is pretty good, actually. The bottom out has a deeper, rounder tone to it. And the rebound is way quieter. The poor feel of the tactile bump isn't as much a problem here, as it would be for typing. But if I don't like it after some real use time.....I may try Epomaker's "silent" Sea Salt Switch, due to how good these Graywoods feel.

For the video, 4 keys of the top right row, are Griffins. The next row down are all Graywood V4. Then next button down is a Griffin. and the right thumb is a Griffin. Left thumb is a Graywood. And all of the directional keys are Griffins.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VTqPm-Jxq4

I replaced all switches on my Haute Board, with Epomaker Sea Salt Silent switches. They feel good and are so quiet. Love it.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enVmrkQjlSk&feature=youtu.be

Found a Switch case I no longer use. Works perfectly for Haute Board and its cable.
 

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With so many fighting game characters claiming to use "karate" and doing a bunch of crazy supernatural shit, I appreciate Lidia.
 
Lidia will be perfect for players who thought Reina was too high of execution, like myself, I played Reina for 80 or so hours and just got sick of being exhausted after 5+ sets. Lidia will likely be more moderately paced and an easier point of entry, and probably more fun in longer sessions. I'll definitely play her a bit when she comes out, maybe even main her until Bruce or Josie comes back.
 
https://www.tekken-official.jp/tekken_news/?p=82#enCol

The latest patch notes are up.

Minus a slight damage nerf to his heat smash (which is totally justified), King was left alone. Considering how few tournament players are rocking the character, I think people are starting to realize that maybe he isn't that OP after all. IMO he's exactly where he needs to be.
 
The 1.04 patch is live. People are interpreting the notes to mean that grabs are going to be steppable again in 1.05. Break windows have already been loosened and might continue to get easier. If things go back to Tekken 7's grappling rules I might bail again.

EDIT: The new patch makes a weird smashing noise that I think is triggering when something is a counter-hit. It's strange because it triggers on grabs, too. Maybe it's a glitch?
 
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Ducking is still the better way to avoid a grab. I did try stepping a few in ranked yesterday and was unsuccessful, might be a smaller window.

The the counter-hit noise on grabs is definitely a bug. Makes me wonder if they even test the patch before deploying it lol. Other than that the patch seems pretty good!, the next patch should finish of the serious balancing issues if I'm understanding it correctly.
 
Ducking is still the better way to avoid a grab. I did try stepping a few in ranked yesterday and was unsuccessful, might be a smaller window.

I don't think that has been implemented yet. It's in the patch notes for 1.05. Ducking is definitely the better option for reaction (especially if you have a big WS launcher), but stepping and walking would often beat grabs just by default in T7. I like grabs being a hard counter to side to side movement.
 
I've definitely already noticed people breaking grabs more. It isn't as bad as T7's ability break 90% of throws by mashing jab all the time, but people are getting out more than they were. 14 frames is just enough to hit whatever button your finger was already on. Depending on the player/character, that's usually 1, 2, or a macro that includes 1+2. As expected, rando Eddy and Hwaorang players still typically aren't breaking anything.
 
He's done this silly "bragging" as if anyone cares for many years. Dunno what he thinks he's contributing... Look at his sig. Surprised he hasn't just been banned yet.

I went and looked at his post history to see if he ever posted anything else besides screenshots of his Steam Library...he actually went from posting pics of his GPU's to now posting screenshots of his games or Steam Library...before that he only posted in the FS/FT threads...I actually had to go back to 2015 to find a post of his where it wasn't some type of screenshot
 
I went and looked at his post history to see if he ever posted anything else besides screenshots of his Steam Library...he actually went from posting pics of his GPU's to now posting screenshots of his games or Steam Library...before that he only posted in the FS/FT threads...I actually had to go back to 2015 to find a post of his where it wasn't some type of screenshot
:ROFLMAO:.
 
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