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LG 48CX

Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
The DP adapters, at least the Club3D one actually is pretty solid nowadays. VRR is the only feature that doesn't work but otherwise it's been trouble free for me. Good thing too as it's not like I can upgrade from my 2080 Ti anytime soon.
 
The DP adapters, at least the Club3D one actually is pretty solid nowadays. VRR is the only feature that doesn't work but otherwise it's been trouble free for me. Good thing too as it's not like I can upgrade from my 2080 Ti anytime soon.
Glad to hear it. It's been a while since we've discussed them and I was thinking that VRR was really the only lacking feature at this point, but that could be a biggie for some. Still, using an adapter and living without VRR might be a preferred alternative to paying through the nose for some of these cards.
 
New OLED 34” Alienware ultra wide OLED monitor btw and also Asus ROG 42” & 48” OLED monitors w/ DP in addition to HDMI 2.1, big heatsink for higher HDR, etc.
 
It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations.
Good point, had not considered that.
The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model.
Was not actually announced when I hit the publish button. I will make an update.
 
Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
Update published with link to your post. :) Thank you, sir.
 
Glad to hear it. It's been a while since we've discussed them and I was thinking that VRR was really the only lacking feature at this point, but that could be a biggie for some. Still, using an adapter and living without VRR might be a preferred alternative to paying through the nose for some of these cards.
Yeah I don't think VRR is ever happening at least on these adapters. CableMatters sells another one and that does not support VRR either.

I'm just happy that they exist in the first place so I can get 95% of the features of my CX 48" without spending a ton on a 30 series GPU.
 
Mostly from my replies earlier in thread when the 42" was hinted at:


That 42" screen should be a little more manageable for some people but it's not that huge of a difference viewing distance wise vs PPD at the nearer 60 PPD end. It's still an appreciable difference of 6" at 80PPD where you are more or less sitting the same distance away as the screen's diagonal measurement.

60 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 29.3"
60 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 33.5"

80 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 41.1"
80 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 47"

These aren't sized suitably for use as up against the wall like a bookshelf / player~upright piano style desk setups. This kind of size demands more of a command center setup.
If you aren't sitting at least that far away, your text will look like crap just like a 32" 1440p up close or a 37" 1080p. You will get graphics aliasing and text fringing that no amount of text subsampling tweaking will be able to compensate enough for.
If you sit the appropriate distances away, text and overall pixel structure will look fine once AA and text subsampling are utilized. The viewing angle also gets better viewed at a distance nearing the screen's diagonal measurement to get ~ 45 deg - 50 deg


-----

So size wouldn't make much difference to my setup. I'd be more interested in what a curved one would bring to the table but that samnsung one rumored on HDTVTEST is 34" ultrawide so would be way too small for my setup and my liking at ~13" tall.

31.5" 4k 16:9 is ~ 15.5" tall which is better for nearer setups imo (~80 PPD/70PPD/60PPD at 31.8"/26.5"/22" view distance), .
48" is ~ 23" - 23.5" tall.
42" is ~ 20.5" tall.


The 42" could be priced better and/or affect the pricing of the 48" ones though, and if the weight is very light that would be a good improvement.
 
HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.
 
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I understand what you say about rubberbanding, net code and maxing out the fps to see the difference in max refresh rate, but I'm judging from experience with the Acer Predator X38p: 120hz vs 160hz felt almost like 60hz vs 120hz. With hardware g-sync enabled. I played a lot of the online PVE game Vermentide 2, and it was very apparent there. Just drastic difference between 120hz and 160hz. At the same time I compared it to my current OLED display as well, that supports 1080p 120hz (noVRR) and it smeared much more than the X38p at 1600p 160hz with hardware gsync. Probably the VRR makes the 120hz OLED just as smooth or even smoother, but I haven't seen the VRR OLED personally yet.

That doesn't make sense to me spec wise. A 2080ti, if you are still rolling with that in your sig on vermintide2, gets around 90 to 100 fps *average* on that game on a 4k screen with max settings. So even with 3840 x 1600 you wouldn't be clearing way above 120fpsHz ranges unless you turned some stuff down considerably I guess. An oled has a much faster response time than a LCD too, even a LCD marketed as 1ms. So I don't see how, at similar frame rates but with a much faster response time, you'd see more sample-and-hold smearing on an oled than a LCD. Unless you mean something else by "smearing" ? When I hear smearing I think poor frame rates (like 60fpsHz) rather than running frame rates high enough to feed the peak hz of a higher hz panel. Low rate ranges like 60fps exacerbate the sample-and-hold blur to smearing levels rather than "soften blur" levels. People sometimes say smearing when they are talking about black trailing on poor response time panel's (i.e. a VA lcd's) black trailing. VRR just prevents stuttering of mismatched frames vs the native refresh rate of the panel and allows you to run an average or roller coaster of frame rates "cleanly" rather than stripping all of your graphics settings down to reach a set fpsHz minimum and sync it.

That acer predator is also 1000:1 contrast and meaningless fakeHDR 400 so you are losing a lot by comparison there. If it looks better or even just faster and less blurry to you I have no problem with that I'm just saying it doesn't make sense measurably spec wise. Maybe on that predator x38p *itself* 120hz vs 160hz made a bigger difference for some reason even when not hitting those frame rate ranges. If so that would be a limitation of that panel. I don't know what 1080p oled you were comparing it to either. Modern oled's have a few minor issues but smearing and response time related blur is not among them. If anything, OLED are "too fast" for low frame rate content like 24fps movies. They will show stuttering where LCDs are all slower so mask it. You can use cinema screen feature on the LG OLEDs to multiply 24fps x5 to hit 120fps so that you completely eliminate judder but the only way to minimize stutter on very low frame rate content (most obvious and ugly jerkiness during panning scenes) is to use interpolation.

Incidentally I played the hell out of vermintide 2 for months when it was first released. It's a great game. I was pretty good at it, I just burned out playing it so much. I had been playing it with 1080ti sli at that time on a 1440p VA so was getting decent frame rates though the VA had it's downsides.
 
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HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.

Very useful info thank you. I was able to find the same one on amazon EU so this goes right in my cart.
 
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HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.
I'm ordering this from Canada. Thanks so much for sharing, I've been trying to get a working 50 foot HDMI cable for months.
 
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It does over HDMI arc, I can’t test it with optical though.
Would be a good test; I know *many* TVs that won't pass through Dolby/DTS over Optical for "reasons". The fact it does over HDMI is promising though.
 
have any of you guys encountered an occasional "bug" (i'm assuming it's a bug) where some games can screw with the hdr and turn off the windows hdr setting? most games are fine but i've got a couple that do it if they're set for exclusive fullscreen
Yep, it's the main reason I still don't use HDR on Windows. Given most games are Borderless Fullscreen now, any Windows UI element (volume bar, game bar, an achievement popping, notifications, etc.) will cause Windows to briefly go back to SDR then into HDR again, blanking the screen during each transition. Also had a few instances where Windows (or the TV) gets stuck in the wrong color mode after so many transitions and requires a manual toggle of HDR to fix.

Even forcing off any UI elements doesn't fix the issue; the problem still occurs. The transition from HDR back to SDR is being done by something lower level the user can't force off.

This has been the single most infuriating issue with HDR on Windows, and it shouldn't even be that hard to fix. The only workaround I've found is to use a maximized window, which is not ideal for OLEDs (burn in risk due to top pane being static).
 

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/gfsr9q/what_does_no_dts_decoder_on_lg_cx_mean_for_me/

It means you cannot use the built in apps like plex or media player to watch content with DTS audio. DTS passthrough to receiver via hdmi or optical does not work either. If you want to watch content with DTS audio, you need to buy an external device.

A digital media streaming device like apple tv, roku, shield and so on. You can't use the CX TV internal apps for DTS content, if that is important for you. You can convert the audio to ac3 and that will work, albeit with lesser quality compared to DTS. Plex will probably do that automatically.

It will not work over HDMI, as the TV must decode the audio or pass it through, and neither works.
You will need a separate digital audio cable from your playback device to your audio system. Or run the hdmi through your audio system and then to the tv, but i would not recommend that.

OP said he was going to use it for gaming, so in the case of an Xbox One X (or anything supporting HDMI 2.1) you're going to want to hook the video device directly to the TV to take advantage of instant gaming response and variable refresh rate.

I am able to confirm that the plex tv app does it automatically through ARC. If you go into settings, you can disable DTS under audio and your server will transcode the audio to a supported format.

No, DTS bitstream passthrough via eArc does not work!! There is no way to playback DTS content on a CX without using an external device like apple tv.


That thread you linked says they are ultimately using audio splitters directly off of their set-top device to get DTS audio direcly from the device to their receiver separately while feeding their console or set-top device directly into the TV's HDMI port for video (and not using the TV's own optical audio output or eARC for that device).

There are a lot of different audio formats and several of them are named "Dolby" + "<insert name here>", so you have to be certain of what you are talking about processing or passing. (For example there is Dolby Digital, and there is Dolby DTS).


https://www.howtogeek.com/304200/wh...ween-dolby-digital-and-dts-and-should-i-care/

Dolby​

  • Dolby Digital: 5.1 max channel sound at 640 kilobits per second (this is common on DVDs)
  • Dolby Digital Plus: 7.1 max channel sound at 1.7 megabits per second (supported by some services like Netflix)
  • Dolby TrueHD: 7.1 max channel sound at 18 megabits per second (“lossless” quality available on Blu-ray discs)

DTS​

  • DTS Digital Surround: 5.1 max channel sound at 1.5 megabits per second
  • DTS-HD High Resolution: 7.1 max channel sound at 6 megabits per second
  • DTS-HD Master Audio: 7.1 max channel sound at 24.5 megabits per second (“lossless”)

As you can see, the propagation of two competing companies with evolving standards has resulted in roughly comparable levels of surround sound quality across three different tiers. There are some more technical differences between the codecs—for example, DTS-HD Master Audio can sacrifice the compression rates on some of its channels to boost encoding to a maximum of nine separate channels, and both DTS:X and Dolby Atmos are alternative “immersive” modes that offer even more distinct surround sound.


Audio passable over spdif/optical audio cables in general (not in regard to LG OLEDs):
optical-coaxial-supported-audio-formats.png


Audio format support chart for Toslink/optical audio + Arc + eARC cables
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hdmiarcguide-5l.jpg


LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes

5.1 DTS via Optical = No

To enable eARC, go to Select HDMI Input Audio Format and choose 'Bitstream'. Then set Digital Sound Output to 'Auto' and toggle eARC Support.
 
I'm ordering this from Canada. Thanks so much for sharing, I've been trying to get a working 50 foot HDMI cable for months.

I'd like to someday get a 50' or longer optical cable to try mirroring my 48CX in my PC room gpu to my living room TV for some gaming sessions. That would require an optical usb-c (3.1) cable to a usb hub for peripherals as well. I have a lot of projects going on right now but in the long run I'll probably try it out sometime later this year.

I looked up the optical hdmi and optical usb-c cables from monoprice.com a few times but I haven't used any of their long optical cables before.

monoprice.com 4k and 8k optical hdmi cables
 
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/gfsr9q/what_does_no_dts_decoder_on_lg_cx_mean_for_me/

That thread you linked says they are ultimately using audio splitters directly off of their set-top device to get DTS audio direcly from the device to their receiver separately while feeding their console or set-top device directly into the TV's HDMI port for video (and not using the TV's own optical audio output or eARC for that device).

There are a lot of different audio formats and several of them are named "Dolby" + "<insert name here>", so you have to be certain of what you are talking about processing or passing. (For example there is Dolby Digital, and there is Dolby DTS).


https://www.howtogeek.com/304200/wh...ween-dolby-digital-and-dts-and-should-i-care/


Audio passable over spdif/optical audio cables in general (not in regard to LG OLEDs):
View attachment 428594

Audio format support chart for Toslink/optical audio + Arc + eARC cables
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
View attachment 428595

LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes

5.1 DTS via Optical = No

To enable eARC, go to Select HDMI Input Audio Format and choose 'Bitstream'. Then set Digital Sound Output to 'Auto' and toggle eARC Support.

Dude, where have you been, the very first thing I said:

It can do dolby but it can't do dts.

Then I was asked:

Can it pass through a Dolby signal though? Lot's of TVs don't have the capability to pass those signals out.

Which I then confirmed it could do over ARC and referenced the other post where people were doing it over optical.
 
Dude, where have you been, the very first thing I said:



Then I was asked:



Which I then confirmed it could do over ARC and referenced the other post where people were doing it over optical.
Yeh it got truncated in a few replies to "can it do dolby". There are a lot of different Dolby formats.

I caught this and the linked reply which seemed to ball Dolby digital and dts together.

Would be a good test; I know *many* TVs that won't pass through Dolby/DTS over Optical for "reasons". The fact it does over HDMI is promising though.
It works according to this: https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/rbpgmt/lg_c1_and_ps5_51_through_optical_out_on_tv/


LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes


5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes


5.1 DTS via Optical = No
 
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Yeh it got truncated in a few replies to "can it do dolby". There are a lot of different Dolby formats.

I caught this and the linked reply which seemed to ball Dolby digital and dts together.

For the record, in my example 1917, I was playing the English Dolby TrueHD with Dolby Atmos (TrueHD) track and it passed dolby 5.1 over ARC to my Beam. I don't have the Beam 2 which has eARC and Atmos support to test with but it should work.
 
That doesn't make sense to me spec wise. A 2080ti, if you are still rolling with that in your sig on vermintide2, gets around 90 to 100 fps *average* on that game on a 4k screen with max settings. So even with 3840 x 1600 you wouldn't be clearing way above 120fpsHz ranges unless you turned some stuff down considerably I guess. An oled has a much faster response time than a LCD too, even a LCD marketed as 1ms. So I don't see how, at similar frame rates but with a much faster response time, you'd see more sample-and-hold smearing on an oled than a LCD. Unless you mean something else by "smearing" ? When I hear smearing I think poor frame rates (like 60fpsHz) rather than running frame rates high enough to feed the peak hz of a higher hz panel. Low rate ranges like 60fps exacerbate the sample-and-hold blur to smearing levels rather than "soften blur" levels. People sometimes say smearing when they are talking about black trailing on poor response time panel's (i.e. a VA lcd's) black trailing. VRR just prevents stuttering of mismatched frames vs the native refresh rate of the panel and allows you to run an average or roller coaster of frame rates "cleanly" rather than stripping all of your graphics settings down to reach a set fpsHz minimum and sync it.

That acer predator is also 1000:1 contrast and meaningless fakeHDR 400 so you are losing a lot by comparison there. If it looks better or even just faster and less blurry to you I have no problem with that I'm just saying it doesn't make sense measurably spec wise. Maybe on that predator x38p *itself* 120hz vs 160hz made a bigger difference for some reason even when not hitting those frame rate ranges. If so that would be a limitation of that panel. I don't know what 1080p oled you were comparing it to either. Modern oled's have a few minor issues but smearing and response time related blur is not among them. If anything, OLED are "too fast" for low frame rate content like 24fps movies. They will show stuttering where LCDs are all slower so mask it. You can use cinema screen feature on the LG OLEDs to multiply 24fps x5 to hit 120fps so that you completely eliminate judder but the only way to minimize stutter on very low frame rate content (most obvious and ugly jerkiness during panning scenes) is to use interpolation.

Incidentally I played the hell out of vermintide 2 for months when it was first released. It's a great game. I was pretty good at it, I just burned out playing it so much. I had been playing it with 1080ti sli at that time on a 1440p VA so was getting decent frame rates though the VA had it's downsides.
Well, I tuned the game a bit so it run very smoothly. Forced the utilization of all available threads on the CPU and did some other tweaks in the game settings to max the smoothness.
By "smear" I meant how clear the image was displayed in motion. It was much clearer on the IPS (vs LG C7 OLED). And not just in Vermentide2, but also in MWO and Far Cry 5, the games where I tested things at the time.
I never even tried running any HDR content on the Predator.
Vermentide2 is sure an awesome game and I spent immense amount of time in it. 👍
 
Well, I tuned the game a bit so it run very smoothly. Forced the utilization of all available threads on the CPU and did some other tweaks in the game settings to max the smoothness.
By "smear" I meant how clear the image was displayed in motion. It was much clearer on the IPS (vs LG C7 OLED). And not just in Vermentide2, but also in MWO and Far Cry 5, the games where I tested things at the time.
I never even tried running any HDR content on the Predator.
Vermentide2 is sure an awesome game and I spent immense amount of time in it. 👍

Idk if that C7 had the same kind of "clean" game mode without any processing that the modern gaming oriented LG OLEDs have in game mode set up properly. The older oleds had motion smoothing on by default I think which caused a smearing look that a lot of people online complained about back then.

I had like 860 hrs in V2 in 2018 alone. Loved that game. That it supported SLI that late into the life of my sli rig was the cherry on top.
 
Idk if that C7 had the same kind of "clean" game mode without any processing that the modern gaming oriented LG OLEDs have in game mode set up properly. The older oleds had motion smoothing on by default I think which caused a smearing look that a lot of people online complained about back then.

I had like 860 hrs in V2 in 2018 alone. Loved that game. That it supported SLI that late into the life of my sli rig was the cherry on top.
Idk if that C7 had the same kind of "clean" game mode without any processing that the modern gaming oriented LG OLEDs have in game mode set up properly. The older oleds had motion smoothing on by default I think which caused a smearing look that a lot of people online complained about back then.

I had like 860 hrs in V2 in 2018 alone. Loved that game. That it supported SLI that late into the life of my sli rig was the cherry on top.
THe C7 is 60hz max... that's why motion looked terrible.
 
Idk if that C7 had the same kind of "clean" game mode without any processing that the modern gaming oriented LG OLEDs have in game mode set up properly. The older oleds had motion smoothing on by default I think which caused a smearing look that a lot of people online complained about back then.
Never heard about it. All enchantments are disabled and I don't run Game mode because its colors are off and I can't calibrate it. I run Expert dark instead, but there are no hidden enhancements enabled such as Motion Smoothing as far as I am aware.
I had like 860 hrs in V2 in 2018 alone. Loved that game. That it supported SLI that late into the life of my sli rig was the cherry on top.
1760 hours for me, in total though. 😁
But, I think it's ok to shove off couple hundreds hours, because the game often run in the background, even when I didn't play it, I switched between the game and other apps when using the PC. It just sat in the background quite often for a whole day.
 
It would be interesting to see a ufotest with a pursuit camera of a LG CX/C1 compared to that acer predator x38p at 100fpsHz average and 120fpsHz solid/minimum. Most games aren't going to get much higher than that at 4k rez.

175fps at 175hz will reduce sample-and-hold blur some compared to 120fps at 120Hz but that's not going to be very common in demanding games. It's also not much more reduction in sample-and-hold blur really:

..Compared to a smearing blur baseline of 60fps solid at 60hz+, 120fps solid at 120Hz+ cuts the sample-and hold blur down 50% to more of a soften blur.

..240fps at 240Hz cuts the sample and hold blur of 120fps solid in half, and so is 25% of the blur (#of pixels of blur ~ blur "radius") of 60fps.

..175fps is near to 180fps which is like 1/8th less blur (120fps+60fps) than 120fps solid at 120hz. That's not a huge difference, if you can even achieve that kind of frame rate commonly in your frame rate average's graph. Considering OLED response time is much faster than LCD, your reported results are even more confusing. Something else has to be going on with the C7's tech or some configuration issue. I did notice you said 1080p which is non-native resolution and can be muddy looking. You'd have to be running it 1:1 pixel letterboxed in a frame on all 4 sides to compare it without upscaling... or compare it to a modern LG CX/C1 in game mode on named pc input with everything configured properly.
 
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That predator has Gsync, the C7 does not.

Yes he said that in one of his replies. That would make it smoother with g-sync/VRR on the OLED but I don't think it would have that big of an effect on "smearing". VRR prevents tearing but that's mostly avoided by capping the frame rate 2 - 3 fps below the max Hz of the panel so without VRR you'd be getting stutter/judder. That is, unless you were using v-sync. If v-sync was reducing your frame rate you'd be seeing much worse sample and hold blur. Non-native rez scaled can look worse to start with anyway so it's not an apples to apples comparison to a modern "gaming" OLED TV in several of the facets.
 
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I couldn't find any pursuit camera tests of the acer X38p but I looked up a few other 175hz screens.

Note that the pursuit camera tests of the simple bitmap ufo are at max frame rate just like running things on your desktop. In demanding games you'd usually be using VRR and running a roller coaster of frame rates above and below an average, especially at 4k native resolution or 3840x1600 letterboxed 1:1 px.

https://tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_rog_swift_pg329q#Response-Times-and-Refresh-Rate

https://tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_38gl950g#Detailed-Response-Times

https://tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_cx_oled#Detailed-Response-Times


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Predator's 120hz is significantly slower, can't compare it. I used 160hz refresh rate on the Predator (or 144hz, don't remember exactly. But definitely not 175hz nor 120hz) for gaming and that was much faster in terms of input lag and motion blur compared to the 120hz OLED. 1600p vs 1080p, as I had already mentioned, HW G-Sync vs No VRR...
 
Predator's 120hz is significantly slower, can't compare it. I used 160hz refresh rate on the Predator (or 144hz, don't remember exactly. But definitely not 175hz nor 120hz) for gaming and that was much faster in terms of input lag and motion blur compared to the 120hz OLED. 1600p vs 1080p, as I had already mentioned, HW G-Sync vs No VRR...

In case it was misunderstood... those three pursuit camera images, three ufo's high each against different background, are:

PG239Q 175fps at 175Hz

38gl950G 175fps at 175Hz

Lg CX 120fps at 120Hz (with 60fpsHz beside on the left of it)

Those are the motion blur results for those panels and the difference is neglible. It's measured plainly in the ufo motion pursuit cam tests I posted between two 175fps at 175Hz panels compared to a 120fps at 120Hz LG CX. All at native resolutions. VRR isn't a factor in theses tests because the pursuit tests are a simple ufo bitmap running way beyond whatever the max Hz of screens is.


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Input lag is a separate thing that we weren't talking about, but the input lag is best on the 120Hz OLEDs when using VRR at 100fps to 120fps.
As per the Rtings review:
4k @ 120Hz = 6.7 ms
4k with VRR = 5.9 ms

That is more than acceptable input lag imo, esp. considering the overall features.

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You are also getting side by side per pixel contrast and sbs per pixel color details in SDR and HDR 600 - 820, "infinite" black depth with a gaming OLED.

Some of the improvements of HDR: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-dynamic-range_video
  • Highlights (i.e. the brightest parts of an image) can be brighter, more colorful, and more detailed.[2]
  • Shadows/lowlights (i.e. the darkest parts of an image) can be darker and more detailed.[2]
  • More realistic luminance variation between scenes (such as sunlit, indoor, and night scenes).[2]
  • Better surface material identification.[2]
  • Better in-depth perception, even with 2D imagery.[2]
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Those are the motion blur results for those panels and the difference is neglible.
i think in real world gaming that difference is much more pronounced due to the hardware g-sync. Probably the reason why the Predator seemed so much more clear in motion than OLED even at locked 120 hz\fps.
Concerning input lag I see no point in comparing an OLED, that's not even in gaming mode vs a hardware g-sync'd gaming monitor.
 
i think in real world gaming that difference is much more pronounced due to the hardware g-sync. Probably the reason why the Predator seemed so much more clear in motion than OLED even at locked 120 hz\fps.
Concerning input lag I see no point in comparing an OLED, that's not even in gaming mode vs a hardware g-sync'd gaming monitor.

Yeah I think part of the problem is you are referencing an older oled model. Those pursuit camera tests are showing full constant frame rate maximum with the pursuit cam ufo test. The pictures visibly show the % pixel blur and there is no aggressive smearing increase on the 120fps@120Hz LG CX. It's comparable to the 175fps at 175Hz pursuit camera tests on the other two 175Hz screens. At best mathmatically the extra 55hz would give under 1/8th more blur reduction, but the oled's response time is so fast that the cam tests show essentially zero difference.
You also have to keep the frame rate that high and most demanding games are not going to get their frame rate average to 160fps or more at ~4k resolution on a 175Hz screen to get a graph something like:
(130) 145fpsHz <--- 160fpsHz average ----> 173fpsHz (capped)
Non native res upscaled rather than 1:1 letterboxed can also be muddy to start with so is not an apples to apples comparision either.

i think in real world gaming that difference is much more pronounced due to the hardware g-sync. Probably the reason why the Predator seemed so much more clear in motion than OLED even at locked 120 hz\fps.

Hardware g-sync

The Nvidia module is the most effective one. One thing for sure, Nvidia hardware module starts synchronizing frames with 1fps, LG - with 28fps, below that you get the usual v-sync stutter.

The OLEDs are effectively hardware G-SYNC, just not made by NVIDIA. They need LG's custom controller to drive the individual pixels with G-SYNC certified VRR, unlike LCD monitors from manufacturers who make half-baked VRR firmware for existing controllers. NVIDIA's hardware G-SYNC module just standardizes them all.

As I remember it, the g--sync hardware module version starts doubling the frame rate at sub-30fps and even tripling it at extremely low frame rates, so when you dip that low it's still at or near 60fpsHz . While still technically smooth, it will be a slideshow at those rates, what I like to call "frozen" frames compared to higher frame rates comprrised of unique frames. Anyway that's how I remember is unless g-sync changed. Freesync does have a lower limit and some of the earlier ones were pretty bad at like 48hz on the low end. There are freesync premium screens that will duplicate frames at lower rates though so that confuses the whole freesync thing.

https://www.gpumag.com/freesync-premium-pro/
One of these innovations is low framerate compensation (LFC), which addresses the framerate dropping below the monitor’s range. For example, if the FPS drops below the monitor’s 30Hz range, LFC will increase the monitor’s refresh rate with a consistent ratio. So, if the game is at 25 FPS, LFC will set the refresh rate to 50Hz and that will still prevent the gamer from being affected by screen tearing.

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Idk what you think g-sync is doing in regard to sample and hold blur. It doesn't magically remove sample-and-hold blur. It allows you to run a lower than peak Hz in frame rates without using v-sync. V-sync which could drop/cap your frame rate if you are unable to maintain enough fps. It's v-sync off essentially (especially if you cap your frame rate just beneath your max HZ), but without suffering jutter/stutter you'd normally suffer from uneven frame delivery vs static Hz. If v-sync made you run a lower frame rate or lower frame rate you capped manually, you would get more sample and hold blur just due to running a lower frame rate but that isn't really what we are talking about here.

For modern gaming OLEDs from LG...
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The pursuit camera shots of 120fps at 120Hz LG CX OLED compared to two different 175fps at 175Hz gaming LCDs is a measurable display of what you can expect at high frame rates on any of the three sample-and-hold blur wise. The difference is negible. If they were formatted the same it would be hard to pick between the 120fpsHz and 175fpsHz images in a blind test. On paper it would be 1/8th less sample and hold blur than 120fpsHz but the oled response times are faster/sharper (overall and especially black to white and not grey to grey LCD spec measurements).

At 120hz 4k with no VRR you can expect 6.7ms input lag.
At 4k 120Hz peak with VRR you can expect 5.9ms input lag as you approach 120frames per second.
 
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Idk what you think g-sync is doing in regard to sample and hold blur. It doesn't magically remove sample-and-hold blur.
My point is simple - I've seen the displays one next to another and the IPS with hardware gsync at 160hz (maybe 144hz) displays MUCH less smear than OLED at its max 120hz refresh rate. Albeit not at its native res, but at 1080p. Maybe this also plays a role since the resolution is not native. Doesn't matter. You may post all the benchmarks and measurements you want, and that's fine, but this is what I know from experience.
 
Games on the Predator X38P felt like moving a sheet of paper with your hand in front of you, that smooth, while the OLED felt like a pretty fast IPS.
 
Yeh lets just say you are comparing a modern gen gaming monitor to a less gaming focused older gen C7 TV, which is kind of a moot point and can't really be used as a measurement of modern gaming OLED performance.

The measurements I posted are for a LG CX which LG worked with nvidia in order to produce. Until you see a CX/C1 in action, especially on hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR, you can't really make a comparison to a modern gaming OLED as being "smearing" compared to a modern gaming monitor at 175fpsHz. It would make no sense considering the pursuit camera pictures and the response time measurements.

You keep glamming on hardware g-sync as a premium in this thread too. It was... years ago compared to basic free-sync display capability hacked into existing monitor hardware/scalers of the time. With free-sync premium but especially with the good hdmi 2.1 VRR g-sync certified hardware in the LG CX/C1, nvidia brand hardware g-sync is not outstanding anymore feature wise other than the fact it can run on displayport for gpus and displays without hdmi 2.1. I always applauded nvidia for forcing variable refresh tech to the market and in a very well implemented fashion though, and I've owned hardware g-sync displays before my LG CX (pg278Q, LG GK850G). It took a long time after g-sync came to market outside of a kit ( ~ 2013) for hdmi 2.1 gpus and screens to hit the scene.
 
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