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LG 48CX

Colonel Sanders said:
deal is dead apparently :/
Click to expand...
Better deals on C1s will be here soon when a. retailers get wind of the EX series devices b. pre- Superbowl consumer craze starts again c we get closer and closer to next gen announcement and subsequent release in the spring.

At least while supplies last....
 
Blackstone said:
Right I am talking about stuttering in older video content. I was under the impression the Sony handled that better and thus the Sony is the better OLED for cinema.
Click to expand...
The Sony has a better motion interpolation algorithm. It is generating frames in-between, instead of holding a single 24 fps frame for 5 frames. That's all it is. If you crank the slider up to 10 you get the so called soap opera effect with maximum smoothness.
 
Last edited:
Perscitus said:
Better deals on C1s will be here soon when a. retailers get wind of the EX series devices b. pre- Superbowl consumer craze starts again c we get closer and closer to next gen announcement and subsequent release in the spring.

At least while supplies last....
Click to expand...
i need one asap though
 
repoman0 said:
Apologies if this has been discussed here already, but if there some way to fix the terrible banding in darker scenes on this display? Using a 3080 at 4k/120Hz/VRR/10bit. Doesn’t seem to make a difference going to 60Hz, or turning off VRR, SDR vs AutoHDR (this scene is Witcher3 but I remember the same thing in Cyberpunk 2077 native HDR). I have another CX 65 in my basement that never has obvious PQ/banding issues like this.

View attachment 427268
Click to expand...

Some people in the thread opted for 8bit+dithered/FRC (see the quote below). That's a quick an easy way to avoid it if you are noticing it on some content.


lors said:
In SDR I can't see this issue. Are you talking about HDR? This is exactly what I discovered last week. Colorbanding is greatly reduced with ycbcr444 limited + 8bit in HDR on my C1.
It is very obvious in AC: Valhalla for example, when there is a blue sky without clouds. But it is also visible on test patterns or even youtube videos like this one:



The grey wall shows way less posterization/banding with 8bit + ycbcr444 limited VS 10 bit.
And since I cannot see any difference at all between 10bit and 8bit (+FRC), limited vs full, RGB vs ycbcr444 in terms of picture quality in any content or games, I will just stick to ycbcr444 limited + 8bit.
Click to expand...



-----------------------------


Things like youtube use compression which can exacerbate things like banding and near black flashing. I'm not sure if non-native resolution would too. OSD settings also could make a difference (e.g. your TVs being in different rooms might have one in different/brighter ambient lighting to compensate for). I'm not sure why you'd have it on one modern LG OLED and not another outside of maybe having different OSD settings or different source material. You probably see it more in named pc mode ~ rgb/444. Other than that, have you tried different cables or a different output on the gpu? 10bit (or 8bit + frc) and 444 chroma at 4k 120hz requires a lot of bandwidth obviously.

Our new GeForce RTX 30 Series graphics cards support key HDMI 2.1 technologies, including:
  • Fixed Rate Link (FRL): A new signaling technology that’s necessary to achieve higher uncompressed resolutions, such as 8K, and to enable 48Gbps ultra high speed bandwidth speeds
Click to expand...

You'd have to clone all of your settings exactly, use the same gpu and cables, same game and settings in OSD, windows, and game settings etc in order to really test each screen against each other apples to apples.

This guide is a pretty good reference for settings which could help eliminate anything that's not optimal settings wise:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/mbpiwy/lg_oled_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/
 
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elvn said:
Some people in the thread opted for 8bit+dithered/FRC (see the quote below). That's a quick an easy way to avoid it if you are noticing it on some content.





-----------------------------


Things like youtube use compression which can exacerbate things like banding and near black flashing. I'm not sure if non-native resolution would too. OSD settings also could make a difference (e.g. your TVs being in different rooms might have one in different/brighter ambient lighting to compensate for). I'm not sure why you'd have it on one modern LG OLED and not another outside of maybe having different OSD settings or different source material. You probably see it more in named pc mode ~ rgb/444. Other than that, have you tried different cables or a different output on the gpu? 10bit (or 8bit + frc) and 444 chroma at 4k 120hz requires a lot of bandwidth obviously.



You'd have to clone all of your settings exactly, use the same gpu and cables, same game and settings in OSD, windows, and game settings etc in order to really test each screen against each other apples to apples.

This guide is a pretty good reference for settings which could help eliminate anything that's not optimal settings wise:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/mbpiwy/lg_oled_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/
Click to expand...

Thanks for this — really helpful. Lots of things to try today. Definitely have different source material into the two TVs .. downstairs one is fed by an Apple TV, PS5 and switch only. Picture is flawless on that one but obviously not using named PC mode. Haven’t tried it with my PC yet. Upstairs TV is my PC only. Settings on both should be optimized and firmware up to date but I will check again with this guide. Happy new year!
 

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SoCali said:
This looks like the game itself and not banding as a result of the display. Mind sharing the game so I can test.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you are totally correct. I just looked at my graphics settings again and turned off the vignette post-processing option .. ugly artifacts are gone. It's The Witcher 3 by the way, my second playthrough. Never remembered anything like that throughout the 170 hours of my first time through it on my last monitor but most likely I just had the option turned off. False alarm! Still, the recommended settings guide posted above proved helpful, seems a couple recommendations have changed since the last time I configured the monitor.

This is also my first time using the Auto HDR option in Windows 11 and I have to say it's very impressive. No downsides really as far as I can tell.
 
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like this
i got my 48" c1 hooked up tonight and it's amazeballs, holy shit, even at my hdmi 2.0-limited 2560x1440 @ 120hz 8 bit.

i was amazed how easy it was to set up for pc and windows hdr. the only thing that was not intuitive was changing the hdmi input i'm using to "PC." other than that it was just plug and play and flip the hdr switch in windows. and gsync works perfectly too. doesn't even show up as a "gsync compatible"/freesync display, just straight up gsync like my old monitor. the input lag is indistinguishable from my 165hz predator xb271.

and yes i know i'm taking the burn in risk, but because of the room i'm in (can be completely dark, and i arranged everything so there's minimum reflection to deal with) i can keep the oled brightness all the way down to 30, run solid black background, auto hide taskbar, keep the logo dimming setting on high, yadda yadda. we shall see.
 
Colonel Sanders said:
i got my 48" c1 hooked up tonight and it's amazeballs, holy shit, even at my hdmi 2.0-limited 2560x1440 @ 120hz 8 bit.

i was amazed how easy it was to set up for pc and windows hdr. the only thing that was not intuitive was changing the hdmi input i'm using to "PC." other than that it was just plug and play and flip the hdr switch in windows. and gsync works perfectly too. doesn't even show up as a "gsync compatible"/freesync display, just straight up gsync like my old monitor. the input lag is indistinguishable from my 165hz predator xb271.
Click to expand...

Lol, yup. I felt the same way even being limited to HDMI 2.0 (4K, 120Hz, no VRR etc.). As you’ve noticed, the responsiveness is crazy good. Once I got my 3090 and was able to take full advantage of all features…hoo boy, definitely dialed it up to an 11.

I wouldn’t worry too much about burn-in, especially at that OLED light level. You’re already taking a lot of precautions. This is a huge thread and it seems like if it was an issue, we’d have some reports of it by now. I’m at roughly 1.6 years on my CX, used daily as a monitor for both work and play. Still bright, uniform, and beautiful. Never had any burn-in on my old B7 that was used in the exact same manner, either.

Enjoy and welcome to the club!
 
You can show/hide toggle the taskbar with a hotkey using the taskbar hider app just so you know. I prefer the taskbar hider method to the mouse-over method. The regular hidden taskbar in windows can be show using Win+T but using the taskbar hider app I can lock it away until I need to see it which is usually only when I need the system tray for some reason. It also allows me to set a custom hotkey.

http://www.itsamples.com/taskbar-hider.html

taskbar-hider.png


That works great -at least in windows 10. I'm not switching to 11 for awhile yet but I know you can make it revert back to some of the windows 10 interfaces. If anyone wants to try it out on win11 let me know if it works.

With multiple monitors I can also just unlock the taskbar and drag it to a side screen, then hotkey lock it away. I do that and drag it to the top of one of my portrait mode screens even though I leave the central OLED as my primary monitor.

================================================

Taskbar Hider is a simple way to do it.
There is also this Taskbar Hide 3.1.1 app that works with 9x up to windows 10 (no word on win11 and I don't have that installed).
This one has a very rudimentary interface but it seems to work well. I just tried it on my other single monitor machine.

https://www.eusing.com/hidewindows/bosskey.htm

You can use a hotkey like the other app to show/hide the taskbar with this. You can just use it for that but if you want you can do a few more things with this app that the previous one doesn't. Some of the extended features are available using DisplayFusion app which I already use though. If you do try this out, make sure you hit the "Hide Any Part Of The Taskbar" icon one in from the end and enable the "All Taskbar" checkbox so that your running apps will show on the taskbar to start with. If you can't find a window you had open, like a browser, hit the second icon in the "ribbon" at the top of the app to show/hide individual selected apps. I accidentally hid my browser the first time I hid the taskbar.
Hide windows program or Close it
Hide icons from the system tray
Modify application windows order on taskbar
Set any program window stay on top
Minimize applications to tray
Hide taskbar or any part of the taskbar
Change the title and icon of any window
Quiet all sounds when hide program windows
Show window property of application, such as window handle, class name, process id etc.
Maximize or minimize all windows or only IE windows.
Automatically maximize all new windows or only new IE windows.
Click to expand...

In addition to the show/hide lockaway toggle, you can strip the taskbar down by unchecking the boxes.
sfM1DxA.png


You can edit the hotkeys to whatever you like:

IWrM1jj.png


====================================

Either of those apps seem to work fine.

I don't really use the taskbar anymore other than the system tray so it usually remains locked away hidden. I have a set set of buttons on my stream deck that launch and min/restore my most used apps individually or all at once. I also use Win+Tab for the task view occasionally. Displayfusion allows you to optionally (a checkbox in the options) only display the apps active on that specific monitor in the alt-tab or ctrl+alt+tab task view/switcher and you can customize the size of the thumbnails. Other than that I hit Win+S and type a few letters to search any app or windows setting panels I need to open that aren't already mapped to my stream deck.

I'd still like to find a way to break out of or duplicate the system tray outside of the taskbar someday. I haven't had any luck finding a way to do that yet. Stripping the taskbar down to the system tray and locking it away with a show/hide toggle hotkey comes pretty close though.



edit: I figured out a passable way to do it using streamdeck multi functions. I am going to set up the stream deck to do this sequence below when hitting a single 'system tray" button.

activate hotkey to show the taskbar .. <very short timer>.. activate window's own Win+B shortcut to highlight the taskbar menu arrow.. <very short timer>.. then <space> or <enter> to open it.

I realized that setting the multi action sequence to hit the taskbar toggle hotkey again at the end of that series will hide the taskbar but leaves the system tray open and floating in it's popup position (dependent on where your taskbar is located). The tray will remain popped up indefinitely or until a few seconds after you click another window active or click on the desktop. While it's popped up you can operate on it's icons normally with a right clicks and it will persist while operating on other icons in the tray. Otherwise will only stay popped up until you click somewhere else or hit a key on the keyboard as normal. So I still have to invoke the taskbar for a fraction of a second to pop up the system tray but otherwise it can be locked away practically forever as far as I'm concerned. :geek:


============================

There is also this app to make the taskbar transparent in case your usage scenario is showing that thin line when the taskbar is hidden/minimized. The hider apps hide it completely though.

https://github.com/TranslucentTB/TranslucentTB/releases
 
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Colonel Sanders said:
i got my 48" c1 hooked up tonight and it's amazeballs, holy shit, even at my hdmi 2.0-limited 2560x1440 @ 120hz 8 bit.

i was amazed how easy it was to set up for pc and windows hdr. the only thing that was not intuitive was changing the hdmi input i'm using to "PC." other than that it was just plug and play and flip the hdr switch in windows. and gsync works perfectly too. doesn't even show up as a "gsync compatible"/freesync display, just straight up gsync like my old monitor. the input lag is indistinguishable from my 165hz predator xb271.

and yes i know i'm taking the burn in risk, but because of the room i'm in (can be completely dark, and i arranged everything so there's minimum reflection to deal with) i can keep the oled brightness all the way down to 30, run solid black background, auto hide taskbar, keep the logo dimming setting on high, yadda yadda. we shall see.
Click to expand...
Should be fine. The taskbar plus OLED light at 100 is what got my B6; since I resolved those two (5 years ago) I haven't had any major issues (though nearly 7 years of constant use including two of WFH has clearly caused degradation). And my B6 lacks many of the modern protections OLEDs have. You're taking all the reasonable steps and I wouldn't expect any major problems.

And yes, switching TVs to "PC" mode is a thing, since it disables most of the extra post-processing and ensures correct handling of any incoming data.
 
I'm almost certainly retiring my B6P once the C2 comes out; aiming for 48" this time (don't think I can go down to 42" at once lol).

Heavy use since it came out; taskbar burned in after a year due to stupidity (not minimizing it plus OLED backlight at 100). Outside of that no major burn in despite extremely heavy use (12+ hours/day average) as a monitor. Some wear is evident due to WFH use, but is not typically noticeable in games (really only during all-white screens, where you can see the areas that have worn out and can't be driven as bright anymore).

Overall, it held up extremely well for how heavily it's been used.

Now, to obtain a RTX 3080...
 
From what I've read LG reserves the top 25% of the brightness range, outside of user brightness, for the wear evening routine. So if you use it as a static desktop monitor you are more likely to burn through that buffer sooner. It's been compared to a candle burning down it's wax, or millions of candles I guess.

That buffer wear down can be mitigated by taking some settings precautions. For example, linus not only drove his oled for desktop/apps at high brightness but from his burn in video it looked like he kept apps open constantly with a giant cross of brightly colored window frames from quad window usage. It also looked like he ran large bright white app backgrounds instead of forcing dark themes and probably wasn't using browser plugins (like "color changer", "turn off the lights", etc.) to save adjustments for commonly visited aggressively bright pages. There are some other things you can do as precautions or wear-alleviation in windows and the TV OSD too and across different named settings. Outside of those, one mechanic that I don't think everyone (outside of regulars in threads like these) is aware of or bothers to use the "Turn 'off' the Screen" trick when afk either. The 'turn off the screen' command via microphone or quick menu leaves the screen active on the computer/in the monitor array with everything running on it but it turns off the OLED emitters (without going into standby) until you are back at the screen giving it face time. That saves a lot of wasted and static (e.g. paused or idle game or video) burn time when you aren't actively looking at the screen and it conveniently leaves your paused game or running app active including sound unless you mute it, as well as not dropping the monitor out of windows or a multi monitor array which would be a pita.
 
Last edited:
question... the c1 has an optical audio out. currently i'm using an old 1080p-era yamaha receiver with a 5.1 speaker setup, hooked up to the optical out from my soundblaster z because it supports dolby dts. it's been a really solid audio setup but i'm wondering...

could i theoretically run the optical from the tv to the receiver, connect my other devices like consoles to the tv directly, and essentially use the tv as the "receiver" with my yamaha avr simply acting as the optical decoder + speakers?
 
Colonel Sanders said:
question... the c1 has an optical audio out. currently i'm using an old 1080p-era yamaha receiver with a 5.1 speaker setup, hooked up to the optical out from my soundblaster z because it supports dolby dts. it's been a really solid audio setup but i'm wondering...

could i theoretically run the optical from the tv to the receiver, connect my other devices like consoles to the tv directly, and essentially use the tv as the "receiver" with my yamaha avr simply acting as the optical decoder + speakers?
Click to expand...

It can do dolby but it can't do dts.
 
I've been using a 48" C1 as my primary monitor for about a month and I absolutely love it. I am used to turning off my monitor when I leave or go to bed and have noticed I'm now having trouble getting signal when I turn the monitor back on (never had this issue with my previous monitors). I typically have to turn the computer off and on again to get the signal back which is a huge annoyance. Anyone else having this issue or thoughts on what might resolve it?
 
42 inch C2 is now o ooo oooofficial!
  • 4:4:4 12-bit 120Hz. Maybe not...I may have misread this part.
  • Full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth.
  • Evo panel.
  • No heatsink though. :( G2 has heatsink but there's no options for 42" or 48").
I don't know about you guys but I am happy to go back to OLED!
 
Last edited:
realworld said:
42 inch C2 is now o ooo oooofficial!
  • 4:4:4 12-bit 120Hz.
  • Full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth.
  • Evo panel.
  • No heatsink though. :( G2 has heatsink but there's no options for 42" or 48").
I don't know about you guys but I am happy to go back to OLED!
Click to expand...
Only if it were 144Hz, or better yet 160Hz it would be a total monitor killer. I'm not mentioning the 38" form factor because I don't see it happening in the OLED world in any kind of the foreseeable future. 4:4:4 4K 12-bit 120Hz with Nvidia VRR is crazy though. Is like an m4 with akrapovic exhaust.
 
elvn said:
From what I've read LG reserves the top 25% of the brightness range, outside of user brightness, for the wear evening routine. So if you use it as a static desktop monitor you are more likely to burn through that buffer sooner. It's been compared to a candle burning down it's wax, or millions of candles I guess.

That buffer wear down can be mitigated by taking some settings precautions. For example, linus not only drove his oled for desktop/apps at high brightness but from his burn in video it looked like he kept apps open constantly with a giant cross of brightly colored window frames from quad window usage. It also looked like he ran large bright white app backgrounds instead of forcing dark themes and probably wasn't using browser plugins (like "color changer", "turn off the lights", etc.) to save adjustments for commonly visited aggressively bright pages. There are some other things you can do as precautions or wear-alleviation in windows and the TV OSD too and across different named settings. Outside of those, one mechanic that I don't think everyone (outside of regulars in threads like these) is aware of or bothers to use the "Turn 'off' the Screen" trick when afk either. The 'turn off the screen' command via microphone or quick menu leaves the screen active on the computer/in the monitor array with everything running on it but it turns off the OLED emitters (without going into standby) until you are back at the screen giving it face time. That saves a lot of wasted and static (e.g. paused or idle game or video) burn time when you aren't actively looking at the screen and it conveniently leaves your paused game or running app active including sound unless you mute it, as well as not dropping the monitor out of windows or a multi monitor array which would be a pita.
Click to expand...
If I were linus... I would run it just like that and have extras in my warehouse to swap to when ever I noticed an issue.
 
Murzilka said:
Only if it were 144Hz, or better yet 160Hz it would be a total monitor killer. I'm not mentioning the 38" form factor because I don't see it happening in the OLED world in any kind of the foreseeable future. 4:4:4 4K 12-bit 120Hz with Nvidia VRR is crazy though. Is like an m4 with akrapovic exhaust.
Click to expand...
I was praying for 240hz.
 
Colonel Sanders said:
question... the c1 has an optical audio out. currently i'm using an old 1080p-era yamaha receiver with a 5.1 speaker setup, hooked up to the optical out from my soundblaster z because it supports dolby dts. it's been a really solid audio setup but i'm wondering...

could i theoretically run the optical from the tv to the receiver, connect my other devices like consoles to the tv directly, and essentially use the tv as the "receiver" with my yamaha avr simply acting as the optical decoder + speakers?
Click to expand...

You definitely can connect everything to the TV and then run audio out from the tv to the receiver. However LG won't decode DTS so if you need that for any videos you'd be better off bypassing the TV and running from your pc to the receiver directly. If you don't mind switching inputs on the receiver you could always do one audio input on the receiver as the TV with consoles or whatever is plugged into the tv's hdmi ports and a different audio input as your pc.

My setup has:
- console and PC through the TV's hdmi inputs. Those along with the TV's build in webOS out to the receiver (lacking DTS out of the TV).
- a nvidia shield through the receiver so the receiver's DAC converts the audio and just sends the video to the TV. That way I can run DTS content. The newer shields also have great AI upscaling tech of 720p and 1080p, they even make lower rez content than that a little better..

The setup is smart enough to work in either direction when I switch between inputs on my receiver.

I also use a shARC device which acts as a eARC port even on an older receiver. You just plug the shARC box's hdmi out into to any normal hdmi input on the receiver (other than arc port) and connect the LG tv's eARC out to it with another hdmi cable.

It cost more to get a shield and a shARC but I'm very happy with it. I've since moved the shield to my living room though. I don't really watch movies on my pc. I had it on there just to see what an OLED could do when I first got the 48" CX
 
Murzilka said:
Only if it were 144Hz, or better yet 160Hz it would be a total monitor killer. I'm not mentioning the 38" form factor because I don't see it happening in the OLED world in any kind of the foreseeable future. 4:4:4 4K 12-bit 120Hz with Nvidia VRR is crazy though. Is like an m4 with akrapovic exhaust.
Click to expand...

Higher peak is always nice but most games at 4k with very high plus to ultra settings won't be filling those Hz. On those more demanding games at 4k rez, even those from several years ago with settings cranked or something with mods and extreme view distances (especially when flying) like GTAV - higher than 120Hz is pretty meaningless unless you are filling those Hz with unique frames.

100fpsHz average graphs are usually something like:

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<--- 100fpsHz --- >>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)

I don't think you'd be losing out much with a 120hz panel until the bottom end of your game's graphs start getting closer to or toward 120fps. Even then, motion definition (more dots per dotted line in a curve, more unique animation pages in an animation flip book flipping faster) would have diminishing returns. In online games (rather than 3ms to 7ms LAN games) you wouldn't really have any scoring advantage due to the nature of online gaming's tick rates, ping rates, and biased netcode grey area/rubberband manufacturing the biased/interpolated results and sending them back to you at a rate much slower than your local fpsHZ. Outside of sample-and-hold blur reduction, the extreme Hz scoring thing for online games is just marketing. If you filled a very high Hz screen with FPS near to the peak Hz you would be getting greater sample-and-hold blur reduction though which would be great and can be an advantage showing more clarity during viewport panning at speed. Besides that, having a clear screen without blur during viewport panning looks way better aesthetically. At extreme fpsHz, during viewport panning at speed you can actually read in game text and you wouldn't be blurring out texture detail and other details during those periods. Hopefully someday we'll get some frame duplication tech without adding latency or artifacts so we can take something like a 100fps solid (minimum) game set point and multiply it x5 for a 480hz panel (getting very little blur) or x10 for a 1000hz panel (essentially "zero" blur like a crt).
 
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This is awesome for those of us putting the 42 inch on a monitor arm

"For both the G2 and C2, LG says it’s using a new composite fiber material in their construction that makes these TVs significantly lighter; for example, the 65-inch C2 is nearly half the weight of the C1. That should result in a less stressful unboxing and mounting experience for these very thin, fragile displays."

Theverge
 
Pastuch said:
This is awesome for those of us putting the 42 inch on a monitor arm

"For both the G2 and C2, LG says it’s using a new composite fiber material in their construction that makes these TVs significantly lighter; for example, the 65-inch C2 is nearly half the weight of the C1. That should result in a less stressful unboxing and mounting experience for these very thin, fragile displays."

Theverge
Click to expand...

I put my 43" samsung's on huge ergotron LX HD arms. It worked for landscape when I had one 43" but they ended up being too heavy in portrait mode because they are lopsided with a heavy bottom in portrait mode. Once I switched them to portrait mode I had to keep at least a tiny corner of the heavy end of each display on the desk surface or they would teeter to the heavy end. I could try adding weight to the other side for load balancing but it's fine for my purposes the way it is because they are so tall that I want them at the desk level the arms are mounted on anyway. The arms are still very handy for their placement, adjusting them, and moving them out of the way to get behind them. The composite thing might make the 42" LG's a lot lighter though so yes that could be great for people's mounting options.

Eventually I'm going to install a pole mount floor to ceiling so I can put two different monitors on the pole, above/below each other. At some point I might sell or otherwise retire the ergotron arms and get some portrait mode capable floor-foot or wheel pole stands for the side screens.
 
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Very exciting development. Probably the most exciting development in PC display tech in many years. I have used a plasma for gaming for a while but I am ready to go back to the desktop with the C2.

I will need a retain a regular monitor for productivity but with the lighter weight and smaller size, I should be able to roll two screens. The logistics of dealing with the 48 were just daunting. Awesome sauce!

Any idea when the C2 42 is hitting stores?
 
realworld said:
42 inch C2 is now o ooo oooofficial!
  • 4:4:4 12-bit 120Hz. Maybe not...I may have misread this part.
  • Full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth.
  • Evo panel.
  • No heatsink though. :( G2 has heatsink but there's no options for 42" or 48").
I don't know about you guys but I am happy to go back to OLED!
Click to expand...

I'm confused about whether the C2 42"/48" will use the Evo Panel. TFT Central is reporting they *won't* be using OLED Evo for the smaller screen sizes.

https://tftcentral.co.uk/news/lg-c2-oled-tv-line-up-for-2022-including-the-42-sized-oled42c2
 
have any of you guys encountered an occasional "bug" (i'm assuming it's a bug) where some games can screw with the hdr and turn off the windows hdr setting? most games are fine but i've got a couple that do it if they're set for exclusive fullscreen
 
illli said:
you can view the new LG tv models in 3d in this link

https://lgvirtualstudio-he.com/ces/tvs?category=OLED&product=C2

the 42 has different "feet" compared to the other models
Click to expand...
That's a welcome change. I cannot overstate how shitty the LG stand is. Zero adjustment, forget about putting anything in front of the TV and it sticks out the back a lot and is terrible for running cables through there when all of the connectors are on the edge. It's just a bad design and I feel a floor stand or wall mount is pretty much a must for these if they are not in the living room.

The 42" legs look like crap too but at least they seem a bit more practical when you don't have to reserve a lot of extra space at the back.
 
elvn said:
Higher peak is always nice but most games at 4k with very high plus to ultra settings won't be filling those Hz. On those more demanding games at 4k rez, even those from several years ago with settings cranked or something with mods and extreme view distances (especially when flying) like GTAV - higher than 120Hz is pretty meaningless unless you are filling those Hz with unique frames.

100fpsHz average graphs are usually something like:

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<--- 100fpsHz --- >>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)

I don't think you'd be losing out much with a 120hz panel until the bottom end of your game's graphs start getting closer to or toward 120fps. Even then, motion definition (more dots per dotted line in a curve, more unique animation pages in an animation flip book flipping faster) would have diminishing returns. In online games (rather than 3ms to 7ms LAN games) you wouldn't really have any scoring advantage due to the nature of online gaming's tick rates, ping rates, and biased netcode grey area/rubberband manufacturing the biased/interpolated results and sending them back to you at a rate much slower than your local fpsHZ. Outside of sample-and-hold blur reduction, the extreme Hz scoring thing for online games is just marketing. If you filled a very high Hz screen with FPS near to the peak Hz you would be getting greater sample-and-hold blur reduction though which would be great and can be an advantage showing more clarity during viewport panning at speed. Besides that, having a clear screen without blur during viewport panning looks way better aesthetically. At extreme fpsHz, during viewport panning at speed you can actually read in game text and you wouldn't be blurring out texture detail and other details during those periods. Hopefully someday we'll get some frame duplication tech without adding latency or artifacts so we can take something like a 100fps solid (minimum) game set point and multiply it x5 for a 480hz panel (getting very little blur) or x10 for a 1000hz panel (essentially "zero" blur like a crt).
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I understand what you say about rubberbanding, net code and maxing out the fps to see the difference in max refresh rate, but I'm judging from experience with the Acer Predator X38p: 120hz vs 160hz felt almost like 60hz vs 120hz. With hardware g-sync enabled. I played a lot of the online PVE game Vermentide 2, and it was very apparent there. Just drastic difference between 120hz and 160hz. At the same time I compared it to my current OLED display as well, that supports 1080p 120hz (noVRR) and it smeared much more than the X38p at 1600p 160hz with hardware gsync. Probably the VRR makes the 120hz OLED just as smooth or even smoother, but I haven't seen the VRR OLED personally yet.
 
FrgMstr said:

Gaming and Working at 4K-Going Big! at HardOCP.com​

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Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
 
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