LG 48CX

I've got a 6.1.4 setup going right now and I feel no loss from dropping the center channel. Given that we're pretty much fixed in a center position when sitting at the computer, any decent L/R speakers can create the center image. I used to have taller speaker stands and tried an L/C/R setup above the 48CX pointing down but the L/R at ear level sound better to me. (angles are certainly difficult to get right)

Since Windows doesn't have a 6.1 configuration, I guess all this is dependent on your sound going through an external processor/receiver but in that particular case I'd suggest trying things without a center.

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As a single user you don't need a center channel, no. It would only bring a tiny gain of intelligibility for voices, in theory. My L/R Genelecs are set up the same way as Tol pretty much. (although I'm a little closer to the screen with a correspondingly different angle for the speakers)

However when there's multiple users behind the screen the benefits of a center channel are very real.

Even if Windows doesn't have a speaker configuration that corresponds to what you have, physically, you can work around it using Equalizer APO to move/merge/copy channels etc. accordingly (assuming your soundcard can output more channels than what you actually use, otherwise it gets tricky).

I tell Windows I have a 5.1 setup for example but I really only have 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer - and the subwoofer is actually plugged in before the front speakers, so it's really a 4.0 setup with full range speakers.
I use EQ APO to mix the center and LFE with the L/R channels. My Genelec subwoofer will then handle the bass management.

Windows actually has a 4.0 mode but it's very bad. You literally lose the center (and sometimes surround) channel entirely on many games and the LFE is discarded completely with any content... 5.1/7.1 seem to be the best modes to use in WIndows. For me it also does not upmix content, only downmix (if needed). So stereo content will just play on the L/R speakers for example. I like that and it means I can leave 5.1 on permanently, no matter what I'm doing with the PC.

2.0 is actually pretty weird too if your content isn't stereo, Windows uses some strange downmixing coefficients. At least you don't lose anything though, unlike 4.0 mode.
 
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That would work pretty well I think. The recommended angles vary. THX in the quotes below is 44 - 60 deg but Dolby Atmos in the picture below these quotes is 22 - 40 degrees with 30deg show as default.
THX recommendations are probably more for the home theater living room setups whereas my 30 degree is what studio monitor manufacturers recommend for nearfield studio monitoring setup which is what I use. There's probably plenty of overlap between the two.
 
Yes, 5.1 is a bliss in Windows, the only problem is to accommodate the setup. I personally have settled down to 2.0 (Emotiva Airmotive4) and headphones (Sony MDR Z7M2), via the Sony TA-ZH1ES dac.
 
Does anyone have the link to that website that allowed setting up multiple display setups and messing with their arrangement and size. Maybe elvn remembers?
 
https://multimonitorcalculator.com/


And for viewing angle/distance and PPD:

http://phrogz.net/tmp/ScreenDensityCalculator.html

---------------------------
Some games benefit from immersive sides a little more , like racing and flying games, especially if running an ultrawide resolution. Those types of games where you aren't looking at the sides all of the time but being immersed by them in your periphery. Some RTS type games are also fine with moving your eyes around a little or being able to see movement in your periphery since it's typically just a big war map you can pan around to move a different area in to the center.

The viewing angle in relation to what kind of game is important. I agree that extreme viewing angles for some games is bad. Personally I want most of the types of games I play to be visible in my main view for the most part ..
....but the other important factor is the PPD.
------------------------------------

20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)


Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?
Always turn off an OLED when not using it. Even if just leaving the room for more than a minute or two.
 
Always turn off an OLED when not using it. Even if just leaving the room for more than a minute or two.
I never do that. My B6 was bought 5-6 months after release and it's still going strong. But it's good to know.

I always assumed that powering on and off is a bad idea.
 
How does the CX 48 work on PC at 1440p?

I think i'd rather the FPS instead of the quality boost. But i'd have to test both settings to see if I even notice a difference.
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?

If you enable voice on the LG remote you can hold the mic button down and tell it to "turn off the screen". This turns off the emitters without dropping the screen/monitor functionality at all which is especially useful for multi monitor setups. Even with a single screen it will leave a full screen exclusive HDR game running "in the background" with the screen off. You can still hear the sound running if you don't mute it separately. Clicking any button on the remote, for example just hitting one side of the wheel button, will instantly turn the emitters back on. This is very useful for randomly leaving your desk/screen to go to the bathroom or go talk to someone or look something up, pick up a package or whatever that always has the potential to take longer than you expected due to the task taking longer or getting sidetracked and forgetting that you left the screen on. This doesn't put the monitor functions into standby though so it's still best to turn the screen off using the power button at least overnight or when going out an extended period of time. Once the screen is off for quite awhile, it will sometimes go into an OLED wear evening routine for maitenance so you don't want to leave it on 24/7 even if using the "turn off the screen" trick.


According to the nvidia viewing angle/distance calculator, the nearest you can sit to a 48" 4k screen and still be in the 20/20 vision threshold is 33.5", but I feel like 38" to 48" is best for this screen personally. Any closer than 33.5" and you will get much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text. Your viewing angle will also be bad.

For a 50" screen the nearest you can sit within the 20/20 vision threshold is 38.5" away (which has a 64 deg viewing angle, 60 PPD ). Any closer than that 20/20 vision threshold = much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text.

In my opinion you'd be better off viewing a little farther to get better PPD and in order to see more of the screen comfortably with a narrower viewing angle.
58deg viewing angle (43" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 66 PPD)
to
47 degree viewing angle(55" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 81.7 PPD)

--------------------------

I think a 55" would work for someone with the space to view it as described above.. especially if you had a desk on wheels or you were using a controller or driving wheel floor stand so that you could move your sitting distance depending on what you were watching/playing. I considered the 55" when it was on sale on black friday actually. The problem I'd have with a 55" is that it would push my side monitor(s) a little farther away to the sides which would probably require me to sit farther away and then I'd probably have to bump up the scaling a notch on the side monitor(s). For letterboxed HDR material or even playing 21:9 or 21:10 resolution uw gaming on the screens it might be better to go larger but again that depends on how near or far you are able to sit to the screens. It's all relative to viewing distance.
 
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Can anyone confirm that there is still no way - no secret menu setting or magic workaround - to configure an LG CX to power on and off with the presence of HDMI signal like a computer monitor.?
 
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If you enable voice on the LG remote you can hold the mic button down and tell it to "turn off the screen". This turns off the emitters without dropping the screen/monitor functionality at all which is especially useful for multi monitor setups. Even with a single screen it will leave a full screen exclusive HDR game running "in the background" with the screen off. You can still hear the sound running if you don't mute it separately. Clicking any button on the remote, for example just hitting one side of the wheel button, will instantly turn the emitters back on. This is very useful for randomly leaving your desk/screen to go to the bathroom or go talk to someone or look something up, pick up a package or whatever that always has the potential to take longer than you expected due to the task taking longer or getting sidetracked and forgetting that you left the screen on. This doesn't put the monitor functions into standby though so it's still best to turn the screen off using the power button at least overnight or when going out an extended period of time. Once the screen is off for quite awhile, it will sometimes go into an OLED wear evening routine for maitenance so you don't want to leave it on 24/7 even if using the "turn off the screen" trick.


According to the nvidia viewing angle/distance calculator, the nearest you can sit to a 48" 4k screen and still be in the 20/20 vision threshold is 33.5", but I feel like 38" to 48" is best for this screen personally. Any closer than 33.5" and you will get much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text. Your viewing angle will also be bad.

For a 50" screen the nearest you can sit within the 20/20 vision threshold is 38.5" away (which has a 64 deg viewing angle, 60 PPD ). Any closer than that 20/20 vision threshold = much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text.

In my opinion you'd be better off viewing a little farther to get better PPD and in order to see more of the screen comfortably with a narrower viewing angle.
58deg viewing angle (43" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 66 PPD)
to
47 degree viewing angle(55" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 81.7 PPD)

--------------------------

I think a 55" would work for someone with the space to view it as described above.. especially if you had a desk on wheels or you were using a controller or driving wheel floor stand so that you could move your sitting distance depending on what you were watching/playing. I considered the 55" when it was on sale on black friday actually. The problem I'd have with a 55" is that it would push my side monitor(s) a little farther away to the sides which would probably require me to sit farther away and then I'd probably have to bump up the scaling a notch on the side monitor(s). For letterboxed HDR material or even playing 21:9 or 21:10 resolution uw gaming on the screens it might be better to go larger but again that depends on how near or far you are able to sit to the screens. It's all relative to viewing distance.
Wow. Thank you for that write up! I like the 55" lmfao
 
Can anyone confirm that there is still no way - no secret menu setting or magic workaround - to configure an LG CX to power on and off with the presence of HDMI signal like a computer monitor.?
You can try if the latest version of ColorControl can do it with wake on LAN. I don't find having to push a button on the remote much of a chore.
 
Oof, so I got my brand new 48" LG CX and promptly tipped it over on my desk during setup. My GF's thumb and a power cable seem to have broken its fall. Pure negligence, but.. the panel appears to be undamaged. In fact, it's perfect. Zero dead pixels, no banding, etc. I've been using it for the past couple weeks and it's been issue-free. Do you all think I'm good to go? I'm just worried something broke internally that I'm just not seeing yet.
 
Oof, so I got my brand new 48" LG CX and promptly tipped it over on my desk during setup. My GF's thumb and a power cable seem to have broken its fall. Pure negligence, but.. the panel appears to be undamaged. In fact, it's perfect. Zero dead pixels, no banding, etc. I've been using it for the past couple weeks and it's been issue-free. Do you all think I'm good to go? I'm just worried something broke internally that I'm just not seeing yet.
If you’re worried get the extended warranty. But, if you haven’t seen an issue yet you’re probably good to go. Take care of that girl, yo.:)
 
If you’re worried get the extended warranty. But, if you haven’t seen an issue yet you’re probably good to go. Take care of that girl, yo.:)

Yeah I feel like a complete idiot about it. I have the 5 year BB standard warranty to cover burn-in, but obviously I would like to avoid having to use it later on down the road. I'm also within my 45 day return window (pro elite plus account or whatever with BB), so I'm weighing the risk of playing the panel lottery and letting go of a basically perfect panel because of an incredibly dumb mistake on my part.
 
Oof, so I got my brand new 48" LG CX and promptly tipped it over on my desk during setup. My GF's thumb and a power cable seem to have broken its fall. Pure negligence, but.. the panel appears to be undamaged. In fact, it's perfect. Zero dead pixels, no banding, etc. I've been using it for the past couple weeks and it's been issue-free. Do you all think I'm good to go? I'm just worried something broke internally that I'm just not seeing yet.

If it ain't broke... There isn't much inside you can break. You are really lucky you didn't shatter the screen though, it's a thin, large piece of glass. I would not worry about it if you don't see any damage. These screens are fragile, moreso than normal monitors. They scratch pretty easy too, as I discovered a while ago by accident. I accidentally tapped the screen with an HDMI connector while plugging things in, and it left a small permanent mark. I think they are intended to be many meters away from anyone waving stuff around.
 
The C1 is coming out in 2-3 months... I think
Sooner than that I think. I believe April is when it's been reported they'll be available. It's basically the same panel as CX, it seems like it won't even have higher HDR brightness. So all you're getting is the faster processor. Seems like a minimal upgrade. Given rumors of 20% price drop, that means the CX should be really cheap in the next month or two, probably 1-1.2k new. The 48 C1 may be produced in a new factory, hopefully that doesn't impact panel quality.
 
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Oh wow wasn't expecting that. I'll wait a bit more to install it though (probably not even available in Europe yet).

Although I'm not sure yet how this will compare to manual calibration for a small framerate range like I am doing now.

Since we can only have one single "Game" profile, having a simple toggle would be most welcome so that I would leave it off most of the time and turn it on only for 60ish fps games.
 
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First pixel issue with my CX55 after less than a year of ownership. My C9 65 is a year older and doesn't have any dead or stuck pixels that I've seen yet. Thankfully it's in the top of the screen and this is used as a monitor so I'll likely never notice it. Going to run pixel refresher to see if it can be fixed but assuming it's a dead pixel and probably not.
 
What do you guys think is the optimal size for a secondary display to the side of the 48 CX? Portrait or Landscape?
 
What do you guys think is the optimal size for a secondary display to the side of the 48 CX? Portrait or Landscape?
Depends what you mean by "secondary". If you mean "screens for discord, browser window, etc. while a game is on the OLED", yeah portrait. If you mean a screen you use for everything while not gaming because you're worried about static stuff on the OLED, a 32" landscape.
 
new fw 03.21.18 is up on OTA and LG website

1. Improvement
1) VRR Raised near black
=> The new 'Fine Tune Dark Areas' feature, which was added to 2021 and 2020 OLED TVs' menu, will help customers adjust dark areas, which can mitigate some of the raised near black effects customers have experienced.
The feature is available in Picture > Additional Settings > Fine Tune Dark Areas (2020 TVs) and General > Game Optimizer > Fine Tune Dark Areas (2021 TVs)
2) iTV App playback error (in the UK)
=> There were cases where videos looped to play automatically, when interrupted by ads, stopped the automatic play.
The bug has been fixed.
 
View attachment 339877
First pixel issue with my CX55 after less than a year of ownership. My C9 65 is a year older and doesn't have any dead or stuck pixels that I've seen yet. Thankfully it's in the top of the screen and this is used as a monitor so I'll likely never notice it. Going to run pixel refresher to see if it can be fixed but assuming it's a dead pixel and probably not.

Ah bummer. I think this is not uncommon though. It's just a single pixel I assume? I think sometimes they come back too. So I wouldn't worry about it too much, I'm guessing it's barely noticeable.
 
Ah bummer. I think this is not uncommon though. It's just a single pixel I assume? I think sometimes they come back too. So I wouldn't worry about it too much, I'm guessing it's barely noticeable.
Yeah barely, I swore last night it was gone. now I see it again this morning lol
 
I installed 3.21.18. No noticable new problem yet. Quickstart+/pixel shift still broken (lololololololol). I haven't played with the "fine tune darkness" thing yet because it's a slider that defaults at 0 and can go +/- up to 30, so I'm not sure what exactly it does or how to watch for it being tuned. I have a feeling you could use it to tune something like a game that is generally 50-70FPS in VRR fairly well, but then it would be wrong for a game that's generally 100-120FPS in VRR. I was hoping it would just be a simple toggle and do something based on the current (or one frame in the past) refresh rate automatically.
 
Hopefully HDTVTest or someone else can make a tutorial on how to use the Fine Tune Dark setting for target frame rates. This is reminding me of Freesync monitors where you needed to adjust Overdrive levels based on whatever frame rate you were getting in game since higher levels would cause too much overshoot at lower frame rates. Not really a big deal unless you are playing a game where the frame rate just fluctuates way too much all the time.
 
Unfortunately the 2021 LG OLEDs also have the hardware issue of VRR gamma fluctuations but include a new setting called Fine Tune Dark Areas to attempt to mitigate the issue but it isn't dynamic so must be adjusted depending on content.

 
Unfortunately the 2021 LG OLEDs also have the hardware issue of VRR gamma fluctuations but include a new setting called Fine Tune Dark Areas to attempt to mitigate the issue but it isn't dynamic so must be adjusted depending on content.


I was hoping there will be more new features because of the new WebOS. but its more like redesign only.
 
I was hoping there will be more new features because of the new WebOS. but its more like redesign only.
Yeah seems very much like it. It's nice to have all that crap in one menu and toggling BFI seems faster.

I really dislike the LG menu structure because of how deeply nested it is. It makes sense for some options but it could really use some favorites feature where you can put your most changed settings. Or just allow me to make any preset act the same as Game mode. At least on my LG CX and C9 Game mode still offers lower input lag than running any of the other modes with Instant Game Response. So even in desktop use I run my display in Game mode.
 
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