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LG 48CX

Some Gigabyte RTX 3090’s have HDMI 2.0 ports. Directly from the specifications on their website for one:

Output
Beat me to it. The aorus line has that. Unfortunately for the rare 4k surround user, you won't get all three at 120hz vrr hdrmi 2.1. However I use a hdmi 2.0b tv on each side for desktoop real-estate so those cards would work great for me in order to avoid having to use displayport adapters anymore. Though somewhat rare, dp adapters don't always handshake properly when turning on the screens. That really only comes into play if you are running more than one hdmi display. According to a reviewer on newegg, this is also true though:
"No HDR output to HDMI secondary display when you have display port display"
My side screens aren't HDR atm anyway and they won't be any time soon.

For me, a single 48" is more than large enough vs running surround gaming. You could run an ultrawide rez and sit closer potentially for racing and flight games. 4k is super demanding already singly and would benefit from quality DLSS in order to get 100fps or better at very high .. very high+ ... to ultra settings in order to get appreciable gains out of the 120hz refresh rate.

I'm still waiting on aorus stock/availability. I had one not only in cart but fully completed my order on newegg at one point with a "congratulations" and "please allow an extra 2 - 3 days due to covid-19" etc. Then later they night I got an email saying they had canceled my order to to lack of stock. So I'm not very hopeful considering botting, scalpers, and miners. Also @%@#$ that kind of virtual stock ordering system or order picking/scooping or whatever they have going on there. Also !$@#$ nvidia and resellers for direct feeding to ebay and amazon reseller scalping.... but like I said, I had an in stock item order fully completed and I still got robbed.

I still don't regret getting the LG CX though stuck at 60hz and no VRR on 1080t sc(s). I ran and run 60fps minimum on jedi fallen order and now Nioh2. They look gorgeous in HDR, espcially nioh2 with so much dark black and bright effects. The creature design is so well done. You can look at each creature in a gallery after you've encountered/defeated them. I never bothered with the gallery on nioh1 but the creature design went up a notch and they look amazing on the OLED in 4k and HDR.
 
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I still don't regret getting the LG CX though stuck at 60hz and no VRR on 1080t sc(s). I ran and run 60fps minimum on jedi fallen order and now Nioh2. They look gorgeous in HDR, espcially nioh2 with so much dark black and bright effects. The creature design is so well done. You can look at each creature in a gallery after you've encountered/defeated them. I never bothered with the gallery on nioh1 but the creature design went up a notch and they look amazing on the OLED in 4k and HDR.
I'm playing Nioh 2 right now as well and that game benefits quite a bit from higher framerates as it's more responsive to play since it's a pretty fast paced game. I run it at 4K 120 Hz with DLSS but since for you that is not an option, you could try it with 1440p 120 hz with image sharpening to make up for the lost clarity. Another solid option is 80% resolution scale with image sharpening. That's what I used before I could hack my older driver to work with DLSS on my 2080 Ti.

DLSS in this game is a great improvement as you get actual antialiasing. The latest 1.27 patch seems to crash at 4K for some reason so I have been running it at 3440x1440 1:1 scaled instead.
 
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I beat "Jedi: Fallen order" on Jedi Master with the HUD removed which makes it harder technically since you can't see your force meter and health bars, and I'm doing well past several bosses in Nioh2. Both are ~60fps minimum, capped with RTSS at ~57fps. I understand how much 120hz can bring even aesthetically to gaming though and have been a proponent for a long time. I haven't noticed any bad tearing or judder, stutter when I cap games using RTSS and keep them ~ 60fps at least.

I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?

Incidentally, I heard 9+ days ago or the nvidia driver around then started supporting nvidia freestyle on nioh2. I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do. I'll have to check it out eventually. I used freestyle a lot on my 31.5" 1440p VA. The game looks gorgeous already imo in HDR 4k at ~ 38" - 48" viewing distance.

I'm on 1080ti sc(s) so I am not able to get a lot of the features even a 2000 series gpu can get right now. I'll just wait it out on the aorus gpu someday/someyear. I can always play through nioh2 again with a different build later and there will be other games to play (I got curse of the Dead Gods on sale at gmg for $13.50 after my 33% bronze member discount recently). Since I'll be paying a lot of money for the gpu I'm not willing to compromise on what I want (3x hdmi to avoid dp adapters). I already bought a nvidia shield and a sharc for this tv as well, partly to make up for some of the TV's shortcomings, so I don't want to buy a 2000 series gpu and a 120hz dp adapter b/c of scalpers and miners and bad supply chain strategies to gamers, etc. and then buy a $1500 - $2000 rtx 3000 on top of it It's getting stupid at this point.
 
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I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?
I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do.
Freestyle should work with HDR. I have tried 3840x1600, works fine but of course you need HDMI 2.1 or the Club3D adapter for 120 Hz with that as well.
 
I have tried 3840x1600, works fine but of course you need HDMI 2.1 or the Club3D adapter for 120 Hz with that as well.

Yep I realize that and was just curious if you had tried that resolution thanks. I know I'm painted in a corner for now. That makes my canceled aorus 3090 order by newegg that much more frustrating but it is what it is. I'm definitely enjoying the game at 4k hdr with no judder or tearing at ~60fps solid for now.

Around 100 fps average (or higher) is what I consider necessary for getting appreciable gains out of 120hz refresh rate capability. Until I can unlock higher Hz and it's higher frame rate "requirement" I really don't need VRR and DLSS as much so until I can blow the roof off the Hz with the 3090 I'll do ok for now.

-----------------

Freestyle should work with HDR.
I did check to see if I could try freestyle when I bought nioh2 but only realized today that freestyle was enabled for nioh2 in a more recent nvidia driver. Jedi:Fallen Order and Nioh2 are the only HDR games I've played so far so I wasn't sure about if or how Freestyle works with HDR's "absolute" values.
 
My CX has sometimes been cutting off in the middle of games (seemingly at random). Any suggestions? Otherwise it's glorious.
 
My CX has sometimes been cutting off in the middle of games (seemingly at random). Any suggestions? Otherwise it's glorious.

Signal dropping or tv turning off? If signal drops I suspect the cable. Checkout the following thread to see a list of proven cables:

https://forums.evga.com/3090-FTW3-Ultra-Experience-amp-Tips-for-LG-CX-OLED-users-m3093822.aspx

I have the Pearl running on my C9 at 4k 120hz 12-bit RGB and it is excellent. Also picked up the monoprice cable but have not tried it.
 
This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

1615256403585.png
 
This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070

Running the side screens at non-native resolution would definitely bother me in actual use. I care way more about actual function and performance, but if you prioritize external aesthetics over that you probably can't find a closer match.
 
This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070

Looks really nice.

Only thing is it looks like the CX is tilting forward. I'm not sure that tiny desk arm is a great idea. Maybe an Ergotron HX is the closest to something that would work. But I doubt you could get it as far back as this one, and monitor arms are always going to struggle at this weight.
 
This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.

Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20

View attachment 337070
It looks really nice but I feel the problem with this setup is the overly wide stereo image for the speakers. The desk also does not look quite deep enough for my tastes for viewing distance.
 
I use an ergotron LX HD arm on a 43" samsung U6900 and the TV is pretty much too heavy for portrait mode. However I keep the 43 inch sitting on the desk surface so I can hang it up to 1/2 way off of the desk or more if the heavy side of the screen is on the desk end. This still allows me to adjust the screens a lot more and more easily. It also allows me to move the side screens to get at things when I need to. The problem with my 43" TV's is that they are lopsided weight wise and in relation to where the vesa mount is. Otherwise they might be fine but as it is they would hang/spin on the heavy end in portrait mode without using desk support on at least one corner on the heavy side/end of the screen.

For the LG48CX I'd get one of those big floor stands with the slim spine and just butt it up against the back of the desk rather than using a monitor arm. Currently I still have mine on the tv stand as it's not very high up but I'll probably migrate to a floor stand behind the desk eventually so I can sit the screen bezel directly on top of the desk.

Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/

Left, center and right​

  • Angular separation of left and right speakers between 44 and 60 degrees. THX recommends 45, Dolby 44-60 and the ITU 60. We recommend 45 degrees or slightly wider, tucking the left and right speakers inside the edges of an acoustically transparent screen. This gives best tracking of onscreen action to audio. Placement of speakers significantly outside the screen boundaries can sometimes result in a disconnect between sound and screen.

Two surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 110-120 degrees. The Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110. We prefer a slightly wider separation in line with the ITU that allows for rearward localizations when required.

Four surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 60-100 degrees for sides and 135-150 for rears. Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110 for the side surround speakers. Dolby recommend the rears be placed at 135-150 degrees whereas THX recommend both speakers be placed together on the back wall. We prefer the front pair to be level or slightly in front of the main listening position and the rear pair to be at around 135 degrees as Floyd Toole recommends in his book Sound Reproduction.

Nyal Mellor AUGUST 2, 2013 AT 4:00 PM
You are right on that in a 7 channel system you have more flexibility with placement of the side surround speakers. In fact you can have them at an angular range anywhere from 60 degrees off center line to 110 degrees. Putting them forward of the listening position (angles below 90 degrees) increases forward envelopment. Personally I think 60 degrees is maybe a touch too far forward but certainly 70-80 degrees I like and think works great.

With fronts for home theater ideally you should position the left and right so they tie back to what is happening on the screen. Some sources think you should have no more than 3 degree difference between the screen edge and the position of the left or right speaker. This puts the left and right either slightly inside or slightly outside the screen edge.

By angular separation of 45-60 degrees I mean 45 to 60 degrees between the left and right speaker. Measured off the center line that equates to 22.5 to 30 degrees. If you have an 80 degree separation between left and right then personally I think that is too wide.

Thanks and hope that helps!

Hi Andrzej and thanks for reading. Yes, as you have found out it is very difficult to meet every single ideal in terms of home theater layout. Personally if you have a 5 degree difference I would not worry. As for the XTZ recommendation, you can do that, but as I said in this article, you should try and keep the L/R as close to screen edge as possible for best tracking of on screen action to audio.

For me, 27" screens are way too small to pair with the 48" CX at it's optimal viewing distance, no matter how nice pairing them with a 48" looks when flush size-wise. A 32" might work but would still be a little cramped. I prefer to run native rez and scaling but currently I have windows scaling at 125% for my side 43" 4k screens (at native resolution) due to my viewing distance. I'm using 100% 1:1 on the 48CX though I only use the 48 for media and games.
 
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Just commenting that I've had the CX48 since launch. It was and still is the best monitor I have ever had the pleasure of using for work and gaming hands down. Paired with my 3080 I smile every time I sit down and power it up.
Yeah, it's important to have a retrospective view on things. I bought shortly after launch, and this monitor stands the test of time - it's improved via firmware updates, is a much better PC experience when you disable ASBL ( ;) ) and when paired with a 30xx series or latest AMD, it's spellbinding.
 
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I guess the only way to keep the Left and Right front surround speakers at the right distance when using monitors matched to the bezels on each side of a 48 CX is placing them either:

..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.

..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.

..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.


------------------------

I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).

I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
 
I guess the only way to keep the Left and Right front surround speakers at the right distance when using monitors matched to the bezels on each side of a 48 CX is placing them either:

..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.

..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.

..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.


------------------------

I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).

I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
Typically speakers should be spread in something like a 30 degree angle to the listener and set somewhere around ear level. Putting them above the display and tilting them towards the listener would be my choice. I don't know how well that works in practice but it probably does as it's a relatively common thing in recording studios.

I can currently just barely fit my big ass Genelec M040 studio monitors on my desk with the CX 48" on a floorstand right past the desk. When I move I plan to get some stands for the speakers for better placement. I tried putting my old 27" 1440p display in portrait next to the CX 48" and just could not fit it without buying a monitor arm to mount it. Would have run into the overly wide stereo image issues too as I already started to have those with the Samsung CRG9.

In other news, yesterday the TV popped up a "Pixel refresher will now run" dialog on screen when I was about to turn it off. Today when I started it it said "Pixel refresh complete". I am guessing I have used this enough to trigger some longer refresh cycle. My model does not show how many hours I have used this unfortunately.
 
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Just commenting that I've had the CX48 since launch. It was and still is the best monitor I have ever had the pleasure of using for work and gaming hands down. Paired with my 3080 I smile every time I sit down and power it up.

Yeah! I actually am thinking about returning the 4k 28" I bought for work. I find the OLED display far less taxing on my eyes for some reason compared to the IPS. Not sure why. It's just so easy to look at all day with minimal eye strain.
 
Typically speakers should be spread in something like a 30 degree angle to the listener and set somewhere around ear level. Putting them above the display and tilting them towards the listener would be my choice. I don't know how well that works in practice but it probably does as it's a relatively common thing in recording studios.
..

That would work pretty well I think. The recommended angles vary. THX in the quotes below is 44 - 60 deg but Dolby Atmos in the picture below these quotes is 22 - 40 degrees with 30deg show as default.

Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/

Left, center and right​

  • Angular separation of left and right speakers between 44 and 60 degrees. THX recommends 45, Dolby 44-60 and the ITU 60. We recommend 45 degrees or slightly wider, tucking the left and right speakers inside the edges of an acoustically transparent screen. This gives best tracking of onscreen action to audio. Placement of speakers significantly outside the screen boundaries can sometimes result in a disconnect between sound and screen.

Two surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 110-120 degrees. The Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110. We prefer a slightly wider separation in line with the ITU that allows for rearward localizations when required.

Four surround speakers​

  • Angular separation of 60-100 degrees for sides and 135-150 for rears. Dolby and THX recommendations are 90-110 for the side surround speakers. Dolby recommend the rears be placed at 135-150 degrees whereas THX recommend both speakers be placed together on the back wall. We prefer the front pair to be level or slightly in front of the main listening position and the rear pair to be at around 135 degrees as Floyd Toole recommends in his book Sound Reproduction.

Nyal Mellor AUGUST 2, 2013 AT 4:00 PM
You are right on that in a 7 channel system you have more flexibility with placement of the side surround speakers. In fact you can have them at an angular range anywhere from 60 degrees off center line to 110 degrees. Putting them forward of the listening position (angles below 90 degrees) increases forward envelopment. Personally I think 60 degrees is maybe a touch too far forward but certainly 70-80 degrees I like and think works great.

With fronts for home theater ideally you should position the left and right so they tie back to what is happening on the screen. Some sources think you should have no more than 3 degree difference between the screen edge and the position of the left or right speaker. This puts the left and right either slightly inside or slightly outside the screen edge.

By angular separation of 45-60 degrees I mean 45 to 60 degrees between the left and right speaker. Measured off the center line that equates to 22.5 to 30 degrees. If you have an 80 degree separation between left and right then personally I think that is too wide.

Thanks and hope that helps!

Hi Andrzej and thanks for reading. Yes, as you have found out it is very difficult to meet every single ideal in terms of home theater layout. Personally if you have a 5 degree difference I would not worry. As for the XTZ recommendation, you can do that, but as I said in this article, you should try and keep the L/R as close to screen edge as possible for best tracking of on screen action to audio.

nANTCBa.png
 
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I've got a 6.1.4 setup going right now and I feel no loss from dropping the center channel. Given that we're pretty much fixed in a center position when sitting at the computer, any decent L/R speakers can create the center image. I used to have taller speaker stands and tried an L/C/R setup above the 48CX pointing down but the L/R at ear level sound better to me. (angles are certainly difficult to get right)

Since Windows doesn't have a 6.1 configuration, I guess all this is dependent on your sound going through an external processor/receiver but in that particular case I'd suggest trying things without a center.

IMG_1532.JPG
 
As a single user you don't need a center channel, no. It would only bring a tiny gain of intelligibility for voices, in theory. My L/R Genelecs are set up the same way as Tol pretty much. (although I'm a little closer to the screen with a correspondingly different angle for the speakers)

However when there's multiple users behind the screen the benefits of a center channel are very real.

Even if Windows doesn't have a speaker configuration that corresponds to what you have, physically, you can work around it using Equalizer APO to move/merge/copy channels etc. accordingly (assuming your soundcard can output more channels than what you actually use, otherwise it gets tricky).

I tell Windows I have a 5.1 setup for example but I really only have 4 speakers and 1 subwoofer - and the subwoofer is actually plugged in before the front speakers, so it's really a 4.0 setup with full range speakers.
I use EQ APO to mix the center and LFE with the L/R channels. My Genelec subwoofer will then handle the bass management.

Windows actually has a 4.0 mode but it's very bad. You literally lose the center (and sometimes surround) channel entirely on many games and the LFE is discarded completely with any content... 5.1/7.1 seem to be the best modes to use in WIndows. For me it also does not upmix content, only downmix (if needed). So stereo content will just play on the L/R speakers for example. I like that and it means I can leave 5.1 on permanently, no matter what I'm doing with the PC.

2.0 is actually pretty weird too if your content isn't stereo, Windows uses some strange downmixing coefficients. At least you don't lose anything though, unlike 4.0 mode.
 
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..

That would work pretty well I think. The recommended angles vary. THX in the quotes below is 44 - 60 deg but Dolby Atmos in the picture below these quotes is 22 - 40 degrees with 30deg show as default.
THX recommendations are probably more for the home theater living room setups whereas my 30 degree is what studio monitor manufacturers recommend for nearfield studio monitoring setup which is what I use. There's probably plenty of overlap between the two.
 
Yes, 5.1 is a bliss in Windows, the only problem is to accommodate the setup. I personally have settled down to 2.0 (Emotiva Airmotive4) and headphones (Sony MDR Z7M2), via the Sony TA-ZH1ES dac.
 
Does anyone have the link to that website that allowed setting up multiple display setups and messing with their arrangement and size. Maybe elvn remembers?
 
https://multimonitorcalculator.com/


And for viewing angle/distance and PPD:

http://phrogz.net/tmp/ScreenDensityCalculator.html

---------------------------
Some games benefit from immersive sides a little more , like racing and flying games, especially if running an ultrawide resolution. Those types of games where you aren't looking at the sides all of the time but being immersed by them in your periphery. Some RTS type games are also fine with moving your eyes around a little or being able to see movement in your periphery since it's typically just a big war map you can pan around to move a different area in to the center.

The viewing angle in relation to what kind of game is important. I agree that extreme viewing angles for some games is bad. Personally I want most of the types of games I play to be visible in my main view for the most part ..
....but the other important factor is the PPD.
------------------------------------

20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)


Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?
Always turn off an OLED when not using it. Even if just leaving the room for more than a minute or two.
 
Always turn off an OLED when not using it. Even if just leaving the room for more than a minute or two.
I never do that. My B6 was bought 5-6 months after release and it's still going strong. But it's good to know.

I always assumed that powering on and off is a bad idea.
 
How does the CX 48 work on PC at 1440p?

I think i'd rather the FPS instead of the quality boost. But i'd have to test both settings to see if I even notice a difference.
 
Do you guys think a 55" would work as well as the 48"?

They're the same price right now.

Also, do you turn off the TV if not using the PC? Or do you just rely on the screen saver to do its thing?

If you enable voice on the LG remote you can hold the mic button down and tell it to "turn off the screen". This turns off the emitters without dropping the screen/monitor functionality at all which is especially useful for multi monitor setups. Even with a single screen it will leave a full screen exclusive HDR game running "in the background" with the screen off. You can still hear the sound running if you don't mute it separately. Clicking any button on the remote, for example just hitting one side of the wheel button, will instantly turn the emitters back on. This is very useful for randomly leaving your desk/screen to go to the bathroom or go talk to someone or look something up, pick up a package or whatever that always has the potential to take longer than you expected due to the task taking longer or getting sidetracked and forgetting that you left the screen on. This doesn't put the monitor functions into standby though so it's still best to turn the screen off using the power button at least overnight or when going out an extended period of time. Once the screen is off for quite awhile, it will sometimes go into an OLED wear evening routine for maitenance so you don't want to leave it on 24/7 even if using the "turn off the screen" trick.


According to the nvidia viewing angle/distance calculator, the nearest you can sit to a 48" 4k screen and still be in the 20/20 vision threshold is 33.5", but I feel like 38" to 48" is best for this screen personally. Any closer than 33.5" and you will get much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text. Your viewing angle will also be bad.

For a 50" screen the nearest you can sit within the 20/20 vision threshold is 38.5" away (which has a 64 deg viewing angle, 60 PPD ). Any closer than that 20/20 vision threshold = much worse aliasing on graphics and subsampling/aliasing on text.

In my opinion you'd be better off viewing a little farther to get better PPD and in order to see more of the screen comfortably with a narrower viewing angle.
58deg viewing angle (43" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 66 PPD)
to
47 degree viewing angle(55" viewing distance to a 55" screen, 81.7 PPD)

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I think a 55" would work for someone with the space to view it as described above.. especially if you had a desk on wheels or you were using a controller or driving wheel floor stand so that you could move your sitting distance depending on what you were watching/playing. I considered the 55" when it was on sale on black friday actually. The problem I'd have with a 55" is that it would push my side monitor(s) a little farther away to the sides which would probably require me to sit farther away and then I'd probably have to bump up the scaling a notch on the side monitor(s). For letterboxed HDR material or even playing 21:9 or 21:10 resolution uw gaming on the screens it might be better to go larger but again that depends on how near or far you are able to sit to the screens. It's all relative to viewing distance.
 
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