LG 48CX

[SD777]

Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

 

[nighty2k20]

Ya, I also have the cable as the possible culprit as its most likely. As I have not heard any widespread issues regarding this and the RTX 30-series neither the OLED.

Thank you all that chimed in on the black outs.. Also the ones not quoted. Will try to lower it to 8 bit for a while an see how things go. Will also look for the certified ULTRA speed HDMI logo. Thanks.

YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

 

[jack81]

been using the cx for a few weeks now with my 3090 and the colors/features are amazing! (when they work that is)

recently though, I realize that if the TV turns off while my PC stays on (for example, if I have to go afk for a hr, I would want to turn off my TV to limit burn in, but won't necessarily turn off my PC if stuff is running), turning on my TV again will never let me get the awesome 4K @ 120hz again (in NVCP, the max setting under "PC" is 2560x1440 @ 120, or 4K@60 under HDTV) until I reboot my PC.

I'm assuming this is a software/Windows 10 bug, what do you guys think? I have yet to try a new cable because I have one of those certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cables from zeskit, so I would assume that cabling isn't the issue here(?)

 

[mirkendargen]

been using the cx for a few weeks now with my 3090 and the colors/features are amazing! (when they work that is)

recently though, I realize that if the TV turns off while my PC stays on (for example, if I have to go afk for a hr, I would want to turn off my TV to limit burn in, but won't necessarily turn off my PC if stuff is running), turning on my TV again will never let me get the awesome 4K @ 120hz again (in NVCP, the max setting under "PC" is 2560x1440 @ 120, or 4K@60 under HDTV) until I reboot my PC.

I'm assuming this is a software/Windows 10 bug, what do you guys think? I have yet to try a new cable because I have one of those certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cables from zeskit, so I would assume that cabling isn't the issue here(?)

What GPU? I never had this issue with a 2080Ti or 3090. What length Zeskit cable? I'm not convinced certification tells the whole story on these, or there's some variation in manufacturing that make some on the edge/out of spec.

 

[jack81]

What GPU? I never had this issue with a 2080Ti or 3090. What length Zeskit cable? I'm not convinced certification tells the whole story on these, or there's some variation in manufacturing that make some on the edge/out of spec.

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

 

[Monstieur]

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

This is usually due to a defective cable renegotiating at a lower speed.

 

[sharknice]

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

Yeah mine stays at 120hz when it turns back on. I have a 3090 with 2 other screens connected with displayport and then 2 more screens connected to a GTX 650. I've never hda any crashes or anything like that.

It sounds like it's probably a problem with your PC if it crashes your computer. Are you using the newest drivers? It's possible it's a hardware problem too. Cable, GPU, or PSU.

 

[eddie500]

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

 

[jack81]

This is usually due to a defective cable renegotiating at a lower speed.

thanks so much! I was confident in that it was a software issue, but this would also make a lot of sense. will send out an email to zeskit and see if I can RMA my current cable.

Yeah mine stays at 120hz when it turns back on. I have a 3090 with 2 other screens connected with displayport and then 2 more screens connected to a GTX 650. I've never hda any crashes or anything like that.

It sounds like it's probably a problem with your PC if it crashes your computer. Are you using the newest drivers? It's possible it's a hardware problem too. Cable, GPU, or PSU.

okay, I have a similar setup as you (3090, TV + 2 extra DP monitors). I am using the newest drivers, but I'll try and do a new installation of W10 sometime and see if that fixes it. I think Monstieur might be right in that it's a cable failing the HDMI handshake when booting again, but I hope to god it isn't my 3090 or my PSU (EVGA 850w G2). thanks for confirming!

 

[mirkendargen]

thanks so much! I was confident in that it was a software issue, but this would also make a lot of sense. will send out an email to zeskit and see if I can RMA my current cable.

okay, I have a similar setup as you (3090, TV + 2 extra DP monitors). I am using the newest drivers, but I'll try and do a new installation of W10 sometime and see if that fixes it. I think Monstieur might be right in that it's a cable failing the HDMI handshake when booting again, but I hope to god it isn't my 3090 or my PSU (EVGA 850w G2). thanks for confirming!

Yeah I've had occasional weirdness when starting my computer from off/rebooting, but never from turning the TV back on when the computer is already on. And the weirdness I've had is never unavailable display modes. The next time it happens mash the green button on the remote 8x and tell us what the bottom line says, that will confirm if it's negotiating a lower link speed or not.

I'm also using the Zeskit 2m cable.

 

[jack81]

Yeah I've had occasional weirdness when starting my computer from off/rebooting, but never from turning the TV back on when the computer is already on. And the weirdness I've had is never unavailable display modes. The next time it happens mash the green button on the remote 8x and tell us what the bottom line says, that will confirm if it's negotiating a lower link speed or not.

I'm also using the Zeskit 2m cable.

thanks for the tip!

I've actually done it before and it would report back one of three different things:
1. It would crash (all monitors and TV), where I have to physically hold down the power to reset the computer, as all monitors/TV are blank and I can not remote desktop in - in this case, it would show 4K@120hz, FIXED (not VRR), RGB 10b 4L10 with the occasional "Instant Game Response mode is active", until it disconnects after a while, where all info is --'d out (this is what originally led me to believe it wasn't the TV/cable's fault)
2. It would be forced into 4K@60hz, VRR, RGB 10b 4L10 or some other variation of a lower bandwidth limit (where the option of 4K@120 in NVCP isn't present, only up to 4K@60hz under HDTV and 1440p@120hz under PC)
3. It would work at the normal 4K@120hz, VRR, RGB 10b 4L10, but with crazy amounts of flickering (primarily on the two DisplayPort monitors, but also occassionally on the TV as well)

typing this out makes me feel like it might be due to a combination of my PC screwing up (issue #1) and the faulty cable negotiating at a lower speed (issue #2/3, maybe 1 too?). My original hypothesis for the crash (issue #1) was that due to negotiating at a lower bandwidth, my PC tries to force 4K@120/VRR/10b, which fails and thus crashes/freezes the computer. Do you guys think this is a plausible scenario?

I'll try swapping hard drives and boot up a new installation of W10 later and see if it's just my OS/on the software side. If that doesn't solve it, I'm inclined to believe that it should be a cable issue.

(BTW I've tried disabling instant game response and hdmi ultra hd deep color, but the issues still persist.)

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

I've been using my CX as my primary monitor for the past few weeks (think like 8+ hours a day) w/ desktop icons (although I'm never just idling w/ my desktop on the screen) and haven't experienced any issues with burn-in (though to be fair I don't have a ton of hours on compared to RTing's/HDTVTest's burn in tests). I think you should be fine if you're only using it for 2-4 hours a day.

 

[kasakka]

There's an option for just entering a custom scaling value between 100-500

Yes and it's a bit shit. It applies globally to all monitors and some apps won't understand it the way they do the 25% steps normally available. Often you end up with a weird mix where part of the UI is scaled and some of it isn't. Or text is scaled but icons etc are not. Likewise you also cannot change the scaling on the fly without logging out and back in first. I am not sure exactly what it does differently but it definitely does not work as nicely as the regular options. Having the 125% minimum step is annoying as I liked 110% on 1440p displays and 120% on my CX 48".

 

[kasakka]

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

That sounds like incredible overkill for an occasional use display. I'd just pick a decent LCD and not worry about image quality in that situation.

But if you want to go there it will work. I would hide desktop icons and taskbar, who needs them anyway.

 

[elvn]

I pin and favorite a "Desktop-Shortcuts" folder in my file browsers. I pin that same folder in the default windows file explorer as well but I use a 3rd party file browser called directory opus pretty much exclusively, where I favorite that folder in a favorites drop down.

In either case, you can set the folder to thumbnail view and adjust the size of the thumbs/icons to suit your taste. The folder view is just as good as a desktop view really. The "desktop" is a referenced icon folder itself after all, just mapped to the actual desktop app space. With directory opus I also have dual pane option with two panes like an open book. It uses tabbed browsing with tabs on the bottom of the panes. That way I can have multiple folder tabs open on each side of the book like dual pane browser and I can keep a tab open with the desktop icons/shortcuts if I need to use them or reference them for some reason (like editing their launch options or going into their properties to track down the installation folder, etc).

So I can use the file browser method pretty easily to take stock of what's installed but...

For general app launching it's easier to just hit Winkey+S (for the search to pop up) and immediately start typing the name of an app. That usually autocompletes within 2 - 3 lettters so you can then hit enter. It's very quick and doesn't require the mouse at all.

In my case, my most used apps are mapped to hotkeys in displayfusion that are then mapped to my streamdeck's buttons (with the app icon mapped to the streamdeck button). With any or all of these options there is no reason for me to use any desktop icons.

There is little reason for me to use a taskbar either other than the system tray. I keep the taskbar at the top of a side portrait mode monitor but it is hidden away with taskbar hider unless I need the system tray for some reason.

I use rainmeter (widgets app) for clock, calendar, and monitoring widgets etc so no need for the tray clock either.

 

[MrTX]

I'll have to check it out. I've mostly been using the OLED to play jedi-fallen order in exlusive fullscreen mode for HDR lately.

I set mpc-hc to automatically open in full screen on that screen # in the array no matter where it is launched from so I only watch them full screen. I will say that a lot of things on displays in general look tighter when smaller because it is like supersampling a greater rez down (like watching 4k rez content on a 1080p screen or window). I don't know if that applies to what you feel you are seeing but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

edit:
-- also make sure dynamic tone mapping is turned off on the tv and in madvr
-- ensure that HDR is still switching into full HDR metadata mode. Try shutting the video player off, then toggling the windows HDR slider back and forth (or use the tray app that can do it), then re-launch the video full screen. You can set it to launch full screen (and on which monitor # of the windows array) in player settings, at least for mpc-hc.

Mine was being buggy with HDR switching at a few points in my ownership, even from lowered HDR color brightness with HDR always on in windows to full HDR metadata failing to kick in on a fullscreen game or movie. Seems clunky at times. I haven't noticed it lately though and I have a new firmware so fingers crossed.

So apparently, the non-fullscreen video colors, brightness, and contrast are not true HDR (sometimes I get a washed out version, sometimes I get a super vivid version lol). I tested this by playing the movie directly on the TV USB port and comparing it to PC mpcHC+madVR in fullscreen and got somewhat similar colors, brightness, contrast, etc.

What is weird is when displaying the stats (CTRL+J), it shows "matrix BT.709", "primaries BT.709", and "limited range" (see middle of pic 2). Shouldn't these be BT.2020 and full range? The display is definitely showing as "HDR, 10 bit, RGB, full" on top though, so I'm kinda confused and not sure if madVR is passing the correct HDR metadata. If you don't mind, can you share a screenshot of your stats while playing an HDR movie in fullscreen?

LEFT: TV USB port. RIGHT: PC mpcHC+ madVR

 

[nighty2k20]

Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

Check that please: solved my blackouts/no signal: YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

 

[elvn]

I'm still on my 1080ti sc hybrids so I still have the screen itself on 8bit w/dithering 60hz til I get a 3000 series gpu.

Mine says, from a HDR mkv on pc in MPC-HC + madVR:

8bit, RGB, Full

smooth motion on (settings)
....my preference since from a pc no interpolation options are available from the TV's OSD and OLED shows low frame rate motion limitations more than LCD

D3D11 fullscreen windowed (10 bit)
P010, 10 bit, 4:2:0

matrix BT.2020 (says upstream)
primaries BT.2020 (says upstream)
HDR 729 nits, BT.2020 -> DCI-P3

mine says "limited range (says upstream)" in MAD VR further down the list after "(OS HDR, 8bit RGB, full)" at the top.. but that could be b/c I'm not running 10 bit. In the OLED TV OSD I'm running "'Black Level' setting at auto, and it will be dictated by the selected RGB output of your graphics card - which you want to ensure is set to full range RGB" (as per tftcentral).

I'm happy with how HDR movies and games look but I can't wait to get a 3090 for 120hz 10bit 444.

from TFTcentral: https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_cx_oled.htm

 

[hhkb]

I had my arm mount attached to the side of my desk since, like you said, the CX was simply too big for me to mount the arm anywhere in the back of my desk. Lifting the whole monitor on/off your desk seems a lot more annoying lol.

Haha, it's fine! If it gets annoying enough I'll try the mount out. I used to swap out my graphics card every day for work, because nvidia doesn't work with wayland on Linux. So each day I'd open my case, swap out my nvidia card and stick in a cheapo AMD card, then in reverse to play games in the evening. Now that was annoying. I only stopped that because I'm pretty sure it broke my 980ti after swapping out a couple hundred times. Which led me to get a 3080, then a LG CX and here I am.

 

[MrTX]

I'm still on my 1080ti sc hybrids so I still have the screen itself on 8bit w/dithering 60hz til I get a 3000 series gpu.

Mine says, from a HDR mkv on pc in MPC-HC + madVR:

8bit, RGB, Full

smooth motion on (settings)
....my preference since from a pc no interpolation options are available from the TV's OSD and OLED shows low frame rate motion limitations more than LCD

D3D11 fullscreen windowed (10 bit)
P010, 10 bit, 4:2:0

matrix BT.2020 (says upstream)
primaries BT.2020 (says upstream)
HDR 729 nits, BT.2020 -> DCI-P3

mine says "limited range (says upstream)" in MAD VR further down the list after "(OS HDR, 8bit RGB, full)" at the top.. but that could be b/c I'm not running 10 bit. In the OLED TV OSD I'm running "'Black Level' setting at auto, and it will be dictated by the selected RGB output of your graphics card - which you want to ensure is set to full range RGB" (as per tftcentral).

I'm happy with how HDR movies and games look but I can't wait to get a 3090 for 120hz 10bit 444.

from TFTcentral: https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_cx_oled.htm

View attachment 322291

Thanks for the info. I do have RGB 10 bit full range in NVCP. And my Black Level is also set to Auto in the TV and Dynamic Tone Mapping OFF on both madVR and TV. It's just weird how the stat is staying "NV, 8bit, 4:2:0" under "D3D11 fullscreen windowed (10 bit)". As for the BT.709 thing, I'm not even sure what it is anymore. I previously thought it should be BT.2020, but I checked my TV and I have Gamma set to 2.2 (not any of the BT.XXXX stuff), as per rtings recommended settings.

Btw, in madVR, did you select "this display is already calibrated"? I set mine as "this display is calibrated", BT.2020, and check "report BT.2020 to dosplay (Nvidia only)" even though my TV isn't really professionally calibrated. Also tried setting it to "disable calibration controls for this display", but it makes no difference.

Anyway, as long as the colors, contrast, etc, look like playing it directly on the TV USB, I guess I shouldn't complain. lol

 

[hhkb]

Annoyingly the voice commands have stopped working for me. "Turn screen off", now returns "Sorry power control is not supported yet". Not sure what's going on - may be because of the recent update?

 

[elvn]

I'm guessing you are running a 3000 series gpu since your player says HDR 10 bit RGB full at the top. I'm running my 1080ti(s) at 8bit rgb full (dithered to '10bit) and I have madvr set to "10bit (or higher)" in it's settings.

Both : D3D11 fullscreen windowed (10bit)

Yours: NV12, 8 bit, 4:2:0 ... mine P010, 10bit , 4:2:0

Yours: chroma > NGU Standard (high) Mine: Chroma > Bilinear

yours: matrix BT.709(best guess) .. mine: matrix BT.2020 (says upstream)

yours: primaries BT.709(best guess) ... mine: primaries BT.2020 (says upstream)

yours: HDR, unknown properties ... mine: HDR 729 nits, BT.2020 -> DCI-P3

yours: limited range (best guess) .. mine limited range (says upstream)


I really didn't change many settings in madvr..

devices -> LG properties -> PC levels (0-255)
native display depth is: 10 bit (or higher)

calibration: disable calibration for this display

HDR: passthrough HDR to display

smooth motion: enable -> always

dithering: random dithering (I think this was default)

trade quality for performance: unchecked compromise on tone and gamut mapping accuracy (unchecked that recently, not sure if this matters or not)


in MPC-HC I set
options -> playback

Playback: play 1 times
After Playback: exit

-> output: madVR

-> fullscreen...
.. Fullscreen monitor: \\Display1 (my OLED)
.. launch files in fullscreen
.. exit fullscreen at the end of playback
..hide controls in fullscreen (show when hovering control, hide after) 0ms
..hide docked panels

 

[elvn]

Annoyingly the voice commands have stopped working for me. "Turn screen off", now returns "Sorry power control is not supported yet". Not sure what's going on - may be because of the recent update?

It probably thinks you are trying to turn the unit off. Try saying "turn off the screen" instead of "turn screen off" to see if that works.

 

[Monstieur]

So apparently, the non-fullscreen video colors, brightness, and contrast are not true HDR (sometimes I get a washed out version, sometimes I get a super vivid version lol). I tested this by playing the movie directly on the TV USB port and comparing it to PC mpcHC+madVR in fullscreen and got somewhat similar colors, brightness, contrast, etc.

What is weird is when displaying the stats (CTRL+J), it shows "matrix BT.709", "primaries BT.709", and "limited range" (see middle of pic 2). Shouldn't these be BT.2020 and full range? The display is definitely showing as "HDR, 10 bit, RGB, full" on top though, so I'm kinda confused and not sure if madVR is passing the correct HDR metadata. If you don't mind, can you share a screenshot of your stats while playing an HDR movie in fullscreen?

One of the filters in the playback chain is not reporting the metadata correctly. That's what it means when you see "best guess" in madVR. It could be a decoder, or intermediate video processing filter. MPC-HC is obsolete - use MPC-BE.

 

[elvn]

MPC-BE didn't support HDR directly in the default install awhile back and still needed ext filter like madVR but I guess that's changed.

My MPC-HC + madVR doesn't have the "best guess" and seems to be working properly, just passing the HDR metadata to the display. I'm willing to try out MPC-BE too though. It's based on the same interface so will feel familiar.

If you haven't tried it apparently kodi player also supports HDR recently since december 2020 according to this thread:

https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=349861&page=77

You have to set "use hdr capabilities - on" under settings /player

"Auto switch HDR mode and color space. Enable this feature from "Settings > Player > Use HDR display capabilities" = ON."

*No need to install external programs or addons. madVR, MPC-HC, LAV filters, DSPlayer are not needed.*

https://kodi.tv/tags/pre-release

Still fixing some things but the HDR passthrough is working it seems.

thexai commented 29 days ago​

Description​ Tonemap Kodi GUI to HDR PQ while in playback of HDR pass-through mode. Fixes very bright OSD, subtitles, etc. and wrong color space (oversaturated). Motivation and Context​ While in playback HDR pass-through Windows color space is switched to HDR PQ and since Kodi GUI is still SRD, the colors and brightness are totally altered. SDR GUI (BT.709) needs to be "tone mapped" to HDR color space (BT.2020) and from Gamma transfer to PQ transfer. In this way it is achieved that the Kodi GUI has a peak brightness of 100 nits while the video HDR content can have a peak brightness of 1000 nits for example. PQ uses an absolute scale, so the normal pure white (SDR) must still have 100 nits maximum on the PQ scale and all over 100 nits to 10000 nits is HDR range... In other words: the GUI will still look the same as when in SDR mode.

 

[Monstieur]

HDR metadata passthrough to the TV does not and has never worked on PC. When HDR mode is activated, the TV is permanently in the 4000 nit tone-mapping curve if DTM is off. You have to use the HDMI Signalling Override menu to set Mastering Peak to 1000 nits manually. Or just use HGIG mode if you don't need other processing on the TV.

 

[sharknice]

It's much easier to use LG Smart Share and watch it directly on the TV than mess with all the windows HDR BS. Then you get the correct framerate, color, etc, and best picture quality possible without having to worry about anything.

 

[elvn]

kodi looked pretty good on hdr material (with it's enable HDR slider on) at a glance but that interface is super clunky and it was a huge resource hog.

I didn't have any luck getting BE to pass hdr metadata when I messed with it and filters, it was converting HDR to SDR by default. I'm assuming it could work just like MPC-HC does passing-through with filters if I messed with it enough.

MPC-HC + madvr is passing HDR metadata to my CX and it looks good. It's showed HDR 729 nits on the file I tested in the media player details, BT2020 DCI-P3. Nothing is pale. Some of the HDR nature material I've watched in MPC-HC + madVR looked incredible. The light sources and highlights looked amazing and so did the blacks. 4000 nit static tone mapping (a curve over 4x higher than the range and peak of the OLED) sounds like it would look terrible and obvious. The only other HDR content I have been running to compare is Jedi fallen order at the moment and I think that game looks great too.

You can enable madVR's own tone mapping and set the target peak nits to that of your display as well as set the tone mapping curve e.g. BT.2390 or some custom things.. and a few other drop down tweaks to taste if you wanted to. I am not doing that. I have it set to pass through HDR.

However as I have read and understand, TVs always static tone map higher HDR ranges down to within their own automatically. Dynamic tone mapping just tries to augment/diminish by trying to automatically interpret how to adjust as the scene content changes - but it's not accurate doing it on the fly so it's recommened it be turned off. Dolby Vison and HDR10+ (not HDR 10 "regular") content both have dynamic tone mapping per se but it has been baked in to the metadata after people selected and mastered each scene individually for a manually tweaked hopefully expert tone mapping result.

 

[Monstieur]

kodi looked pretty good on hdr material (with it's enable HDR slider on) at a glance but that interface is super clunky and it was a huge resource hog.

I didn't have any luck getting BE to pass hdr metadata when I messed with it and filters, it was converting HDR to SDR by default. I'm assuming it could work just like MPC-HC does passing-through with filters if I messed with it enough.

MPC-HC + madvr is passing HDR metadata to my CX and it looks good. It's showed HDR 729 nits on the file I tested in the media player details, BT2020 DCI-P3. Nothing is pale. Some of the HDR nature material I've watched in MPC-HC + madVR looked incredible. The light sources and highlights looked amazing and so did the blacks. 4000 nit static tone mapping (a curve over 4x higher than the range and peak of the OLED) sounds like it would look terrible and obvious. The only other HDR content I have been running to compare is Jedi fallen order at the moment and I think that game looks great too.

You can enable madVR's own tone mapping and set the target peak nits to that of your display as well as set the tone mapping curve e.g. BT.2390 or some custom things.. and a few other drop down tweaks to taste if you wanted to. I am not doing that. I have it set to pass through HDR.

However as I have read and understand, TVs always static tone map higher HDR ranges down to within their own automatically. Dynamic tone mapping just tries to augment/diminish by trying to automatically interpret how to adjust as the scene content changes - but it's not accurate doing it on the fly so it's recommened it be turned off. Dolby Vison and HDR10+ (not HDR 10 "regular") content both have dynamic tone mapping per se but it has been baked in to the metadata after people selected and mastered each scene individually for a manually tweaked hopefully expert tone mapping result.

Passthrough of HDR metadata does not work in any player, period. You must use a HDR-aware renderer like madVR with MPC-BE to output BT.2020 PQ and manually set the HDMI signal parameters on the TV based on the content you're watching or the TV will use the wrong tone mapping curve. Alternatively you can leave the TV in HGIG mode for the most accurate image. Use madVR's tone mapping to 800 nits in HGIG mode if you want to preserve highlights instead of hard clipping.

madVR just copies the decoded video into the BT.2020 PQ framebuffer already setup by Windows when HDR is globally enabled. No metadata from the content is send to the TV. If HDR is broken in the decoder chain, madVR will convert the colour space of the video to BT.709 Gamma 2.2 and map it within the Windows' BT.2020 PQ signal.

 

[Koleo]

Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

Hello, I'm not native so I hope you can forgive some of my yoinky phrasings.

I now use the 48cx as my main and only monitor, about 5 hours on works days and up to 14hours on weekend days. I believe it now when some of you said that there is nothing better even as a monitor.
I have however some issues
Text rendering is absolute trash at 100% scaling, I was prepared for that. Disabling cleartype is basically trading a flavor of bad for another. Nothing to do about that.
Colors which are rich in green look very wierd, as if there is a line on the left that is black. Looks like a byproduct of the wierd pixel structure but I could be wrong (try but putting a light green square on a gray background)

Finally the issue pointed by SD777, which is the most annoying one, happens to me on a regular basis, it did 5-6 times this morning. Sometimes it does it 5 times an hour, sometimes never.

More data:

I also have a 3070 (msi ventus) and the display is set to 4K/120hz/10bit, TV is set to PC mode, screen shift disabled.
However it seems to always happens when web browsing, on doing general desktop things.
It never happens when playing, be it full screen or windowed, or even when watching videos.
I use a seemingly good cable which is 2 meter long

I believe it is a problem from the graphics card, but it could also be the TV is twitching channels by itself for some reason. I originally thougt it was the anti-burn in pixel refresh procedure, but this should only activate when the TV is turned on and only every 4hr as I understand.

Check that please: solved my blackouts/no signal: YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

Turn out I already had this set

Changing override setting does nothing.

Maybe it is linked to the faulty hdmi 2.1 chips in most early 2.1 hardware. RTX Could be some of those.
Last thing I did was disable HDMI audio from the nvidia control panel.
No signal losing since then, by it could just be luck.
Will keep updating on this.

Edit 2 mins after posting : It did it again, lost signal 5 times in a row over the course of 30seconcs. It seems to get in and out of the PC/game mode, as I could see the color temperature and brightness change. It did it immediately after launching paint.net, so it is certainely linked to activity on the PC, or to a sudden change in the image.

 

[Koleo]

So I tried moving around my paint.net window as it seems to trigger the anomaly easily.
It crashed the nvidia display drivers and made me blue screen.

Maybe this should be reported to nvidia ?

 

[hhkb]

So I tried moving around my paint.net window as it seems to trigger the anomaly easily.
It crashed the nvidia display drivers and made me blue screen.

Maybe this should be reported to nvidia ?

Have you tried turning off hardware accelerated GPU scheduling? Having this ON caused me lots of problems.

 

[hhkb]

been using the cx for a few weeks now with my 3090 and the colors/features are amazing! (when they work that is)

recently though, I realize that if the TV turns off while my PC stays on (for example, if I have to go afk for a hr, I would want to turn off my TV to limit burn in, but won't necessarily turn off my PC if stuff is running), turning on my TV again will never let me get the awesome 4K @ 120hz again (in NVCP, the max setting under "PC" is 2560x1440 @ 120, or 4K@60 under HDTV) until I reboot my PC.

I'm assuming this is a software/Windows 10 bug, what do you guys think? I have yet to try a new cable because I have one of those certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cables from zeskit, so I would assume that cabling isn't the issue here(?)

I assume you're not unplugging the TV but turning it off with the remote. Also make sure you have quickstart+ enabled, I suspect this keeps the hdmi link active since it just goes into suspend mode.

I found though nvidia cards have some bugs with this TV for some reason. I have frequent problems with complete lock ups related to the TV being off, or the hdmi cable getting disconnected. I always make sure the TV is on before I wake up my computer, that seems to avoid any problem. Or use the "Turn off the screen" voice command, it avoids all problems as well.

 

[elvn]

I was going by this with my madVR setup , setting mad vr to passthrough, hdmi black level auto, tone mapping off on tv and in madvr. There were no "best guesses" in my renderer info in mpc.

https://www.avforums.com/threads/madvr-on-pc-as-a-video-processor.2249335/post-28011078
(May 2020)

Hello @NM20, it's been a while since I've touched my settings. See the below excellent guide, which helped me set madVR up with Kodi. You can still apply the guide to other media applications and a lot of it is universal:


HOW TO - Set up madVR for Kodi DSPlayer & External Players

My settings are as per option one, with Kodi not set to limited in its settings and my NVIDIA settings set to 12 bpc, colour depth: Highest (32-bit). I use YCbCr422 - and I forget exactly why! Everyone will tell you you should use RGB, at least with a PC. But this option allows me to do everything and it covers me for gaming, 3D, SDR and HDR, with Windows 10 auto-switching into HDR correctly for video games. I think I will set it back to RGB, though.

"Option 1:

If you just connect an HDMI cable from PC to TV, chances are you'll end up with a signal path like this:

(madVR) PC levels (0-255) -> (GPU) Limited Range RGB 16-235 -> (Display) Output as RGB 16-235

madVR expands the 16-235 source to full range RGB and it is converted back to 16-235 by the graphics card. Expanding the source prevents the GPU from clipping the levels when outputting 16-235. Both videos and the desktop will look accurate. However, it is possible to introduce banding if the GPU fails to use dithering when compressing 0-255 to 16-235. The range is converted twice: by madVR and the GPU.

This option isn’t recommended because of the range compression by the GPU and should only be used if no other suitable option is possible.

If your graphics card doesn't allow for a full range setting (like many Intel iGPUs or older Nvidia cards), then this may be your only choice. If so, it may be worth running madLevelsTweaker.exe in the madVR installation folder to see if you can force full range output from the GPU.

Option 2:

If your PC is a dedicated HTPC, you might consider this approach:

(madVR) TV levels (16-235) -> (media front-end) Use limited color range (16-235) -> (GPU) Full Range RGB 0-255 -> (Display) Output as RGB 16-235

In this configuration, the signal remains 16-235 all the way to the display. A GPU set to 0-255 will passthrough all output from the media player without clipping the levels. If a media front-end is used, it should also be configured to use 16-235 to match the media player.

When set to 16-235, madVR does not clip Blacker-than-Black (0-15) and Whiter-than-White (236-255) if the source video includes these values. Black and white clipping patterns should be used to adjust brightness and contrast until 16-235 are the only visible bars.

This can be the best option for GPUs that output full range to a display that only accepts limited range RGB. Banding should not occur as madVR handles the only conversion (YCbCr -> RGB) and the GPU is bypassed. However, the desktop and other applications will output incorrect levels. PC applications render black at 0,0,0, while the display expects 16,16,16. The result is crushed blacks. This sacrifice improves the quality of the video player at the expense of all other computing.

Option 3:

A final option involves setting all sources to full range — identical to a traditional PC and computer monitor:

(madVR) PC levels (0-255) -> (GPU) Full Range RGB 0-255 -> (Display) Output as RGB 0-255

madVR expands 16-235 to 0-255 and it is presented in full range by the display. The display's HDMI black level must be toggled to display full range RGB (Set to High or Normal (0-255) vs. Low (16-235)).

When expanding 16-235 to 0-255, madVR clips both 0-15 and 236-255, as reference black, 16, is mapped to 0, and reference white, 235, is mapped to 255. Clipping both BtB and WtW is acceptable as long as a correct grayscale is maintained. The use of black and white clipping patterns can confirm video levels (16-235) are displayed accurately.

This is usually the optimal setting for those with displays and GPUs supporting full range output (the majority of users). Both videos and the desktop will look correct and banding is unlikely as madVR handles the only required conversion. A PC must already convert from a video color space (YCbCr) to a PC color space (RGB), so the conversion of 16-235 to 0-255 is simply done with a YCbCr -> RGB conversion matrix that converts directly from limited range YCbCr to full range RGB. No additional scaling step is necessary.

Recommended Use (RGB output levels):

Banding is prevented when the GPU is set to passthrough all sources that occurs when set to RGB 0-255. Both Option 2 and Option 3 configure the GPU to 0-255. Option 3 should be considered the default option because it maintains correct output levels for all PC applications, while Option 2 only benefits video playback.

To confirm accurate video levels, it is a good idea to use some test patterns. This may require some adjustment to the display's brightness and contrast controls to eliminate any black crush or white clipping. For testing, start with these AVS Forum Black and White Clipping Patterns (under Basic Settings) to confirm the display of 16-25 and 230-235, and move on to these videos that can be used to fine-tune "black 16" and "white 235."".

Win - HOW TO - Set up madVR for Kodi DSPlayer & External Players ..... (but applied for MPC-HC)
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188&pid=2238942#pid2238942


----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Passthrough of HDR metadata does not work in any player, period. You must use a HDR-aware renderer like madVR with MPC-BE to output BT.2020 PQ and manually set the HDMI signal parameters on the TV based on the content you're watching or the TV will use the wrong tone mapping curve. Alternatively you can leave the TV in HGIG mode for the most accurate image. Use madVR's tone mapping to 800 nits in HGIG mode if you want to preserve highlights instead of hard clipping.

madVR just copies the decoded video into the BT.2020 PQ framebuffer already setup by Windows when HDR is globally enabled. No metadata from the content is send to the TV. If HDR is broken in the decoder chain, madVR will convert the colour space of the video to BT.709 Gamma 2.2 and map it within the Windows' BT.2020 PQ signal.

4-2017
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=295362&pid=2566122#pid2566122

As I mentioned in my earlier post, when you enable HDR and advanced color in Windows 10, the output HDMI signal has ST 2084 and BT.2020 already set in HDMI InfoFrame. Samsung TVs can be put into HDR mode just by the ST 2084 flag. However in this Windows HDR implementation, HDMI output doesn't transmit the full static HDR10 metadata that are required for proper tone and color gamut mapping on your TV. If you look for it carefully, you may be able to pick the differences between your TV's native player and madVR HDR playback.

Thanks for the info. Yes some subtle difference according to that 2017 post but not always noticeable without looking for it, no horrible clipping like I would expect from a 4000nit curve for example. I'm not experiencing any of the washed out issues some people have. Granted this is my first HDR tv and my first big oled display. (I have a samsung 8.5" oled tablet and a s20+ oled phone). Though not related to the windows player apps issues, I've also run jedi fallen order for hdr gaming and have no stand out issues (like pale HDR for example), running with dynamic tone mapping off in the TV OSD.

Has anyone got the emby server on the LG CX's "pictures and video" app to play mkv in full 4k? I tried that but I'm only getting 1920x804 even after turning off all transcoding on the PC's emby user side. I'd really like to serve from my pc.... or my ps4 as middleman if I had to. I haven't tried the ps4 yet. That would require switching to another input on the TV which I was hoping to avoid but if I had to in order to make everything work more accurately I could deal with it. I also have a few 2015 shields in the house but they are on my living room and bedroom tvs.

 

[Koleo]

Have you tried turning off hardware accelerated GPU scheduling? Having this ON caused me lots of problems.

Thank you, I already have HW acceleration disabled as I already had trouble with it in the past

 

[hhkb]

Thank you, I already have HW acceleration disabled as I already had trouble with it in the past

This is really strange! I don't have any dropouts at all. But it seems like it is happening to a few people.

If I was you I'd try to narrow down the problem further. You could try running an Ubuntu liveCD for example for a few hours, make sure to enable the nvidia drivers, and see if you still experience the problem. If you do, then you know it's a hardware issue. Also you can try running at 8-bit to reduce bandwidth for a while.

One other random thing I can think of - it can be sometimes hard to make a secure HDMI connection on the back of the graphic card. I know some cases don't line up w/ the slots quite right, so the slot itself on the case can block being able to fully push the cable in. It might be the issue, in which case you can try adjusting your card a bit so it makes a better connection. I'm not sure what else it could be.

 

[Porter_]

Thanks guys. I’ve got a 3080 on the way and I’m currently using a Monoprice 8K cable. I’m obviously hoping it works fine, but it’s good to have options if it doesn’t.

FYI my Monoprice cable works perfectly at 4K/120/10bit/RGB with GSync. Really nice to have everything working with this screen.

Monoprice Ultra 8K High Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 48Gbps, 8K, Dynamic HDR, eARC - DynamicView Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNM2NJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_UnVdGb30RGR9H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[elvn]

Well plex doesn't support HDR on PS4 at all apparently so that's an even worse route to take. Emby supposedly can run via the ps4 web browser but I have to dig up my password for it since it does the pin to your phone thing. I don't have a lot of confidence that that will work right either.

The LG TV's "pictures & video " emby app drops the resolution, doesn't play HDR and doesn't play some files at all.. so that's out.

However, perhaps I can set up a different file server that the LG CX can access from it's media page. I'll have to look into it. If it turns out like the emby app on the LG it will be junk for streaming though.

[edit: I'm setting up plex DLNA server that got picked up by LG webos so I'll test that out too...]

I can also look into getting a newer shield for attaching directly to the oled, that is assuming those can work to stream HDR properly. My other two 2015 shields are clients of my pc emby server right now on different SDR tvs. I don't know if the LG can even pick up a shield server remotely but I don't want to infringe on the shield's functionality on the tvs they are connected to so if buying a newer model is viable for connecting directly to the LG OLED for streaming hdr to the oled I'd be willing to go that route.

So for now I'll stick with mpc-hc + madVR as nothing else is working any better for streamed mkvs for me at the moment and I am getting very rich colors, deep blacks, and bright highlights even if there is some inaccurate mapping that might crush the whites a little or something. There is also the fact that hooking up another device requires me to switch inputs on the tv and fragment what audio is playing through my receiver. I'd have to swtich to my headphones to get any pc sound whenever I was running a movie (with the movie input device's sound coming out of my surround speakers).. or set up some other pc speakers on a different output from my motherboard sound card like 3.5mm out ... or switch my audio output for pc to the hdmi sound and crappy tv speakers on one of my other screens. I'd rather not have to do that.

 

[elvn]

Plex DLNA serving HDR looks promising so far. Will save me the price of a 2019 shield. They still aren't a bad option though since they have really good AI upscaling and a lot more open apps wise.

 

[Seyumi]

So the 2021 48" C1 model is on the USA LG website now (no 42" listed btw):

https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv

I'm seeing absolutely no differences vs the 2020 (CX) model besides a9 "Gen 4" processor which I'm assuming is nothing but marketing garbage that probably doesn't even benefit in game mode anyway as most of that junk is turned off. Sound about right or did I miss anything?

 

[Mizzer]

I have the following set-up:

RTX 3070 (latest drivers)
OLED48CXPUG (these are connected by a certified 48Gb cable) (HDMI input set to "PC")
Windows 10 (latest patch)

I get occasional drop outs where the signal seems lost for a second and then returns. When it comes back "HDR" shows at the top and my settings remain the same. It never happens in-games, mostly when I am browsing. (Firefox)

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

P.S. The picture quality during gaming is stunning!