LG 48CX

SmootyPoody

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Aug 22, 2018
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74
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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May 24, 2013
Messages
132
Windows has never been reliable on the screen saver or monitor off functionality. It's really annoying. There's lots of things that can inhibit it - like simply having a gamepad plugged in!
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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May 24, 2013
Messages
132
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC

It is most likely the cable. It might be worth trying a lower bandwidth for a while, like using 8 bit and see if it fixes it.
 

phinix

Gawd
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Dec 13, 2005
Messages
881
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC

I had the same thing with my 48CX and RTX3070.
I thought it was that RTX 30x series issue (dropping signal, blinking) but I think it was a cable. I had HDMI 2.0 cable and it was freaking me out, blinking so many t9ime, or giving me signal error.
I got a good Ugreen HDMI 2.1 cable yesterday and issue stopped.
It sounds like you are having same problem, maybe that 2.1 cable of yours isn't that good. One 2.1 cable is not same as other.
 

phinix

Gawd
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Dec 13, 2005
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881
Guys, where can I order that old school LG remote control with access to Service menu for UE models?
I want to check the total up time of my tv.
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
132
Guys, where can I order that old school LG remote control with access to Service menu for UE models?
I want to check the total up time of my tv.
Search for MKJ39170828 on amazon or ebay.

I bought mine for the same reason. Whatever you do, do NOT press IN STOP ever - I made that mistake and wiped out my up time hours.
 
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phinix

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Search for MKJ39170828 on amazon or ebay.

I bought mine for the same reason. Whatever you do, do NOT press IN STOP ever - I made that mistake and wiped out my up time hours.
Cool, thanks.
Found one and bought for £6.

What do you press to go to uptime?
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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Cool, thanks.
Found one and bought for £6.

What do you press to go to uptime?

IN START -> 0413. It's on the bottom left of the screen, it shows UTT (total up time hours), and below that it shows your minor pixel refreshes (the 4 hr refresh), followed by major refreshes (every 2000 hrs), like 132/0. Press EXIT to exit the menu, not IN STOP (so easy to mess it up so I must reemphasize).
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Finally scored a 3090 thanks to a member here and holy cow, this thing looks even better. Going from 8-bit 4:2:0 to 12-bit (I guess downsampled to 10-bit) RGB was NICE. Colors are richer and even more vibrant. And now G-Sync is available in NVCP, at last! This combined with the good news surrounding the recent firmware update and Nvidia driver fixes all came together. The CX is a stunner.
 

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
52,050
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC
These cables are working very well for me on a desktop CX48 and living room CX65. CX48 is on a 6900 XT running 10 bit RGB 4:4:4, 4K, 120Hz, VRR, HDR, etc.

8K 60Hz HDMI Cable 6.6FT (2 Pack),48Gbps 7680P Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cord for Apple TV,Roku,Samsung QLED,Sony LG,Nintendo Switch,Playstation,PS5,PS4,Xbox One Series X,HDMI 2.0/4K 120Hz Compatible​


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T32WTX
 

Commander Shepard

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Messages
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Finally scored a 3090 thanks to a member here and holy cow, this thing looks even better. Going from 8-bit 4:2:0 to 12-bit (I guess downsampled to 10-bit) RGB was NICE. Colors are richer and even more vibrant. And now G-Sync is available in NVCP, at last! This combined with the good news surrounding the recent firmware update and Nvidia driver fixes all came together. The CX is a stunner.
Finally pulled the trigger today. I hope I can make it work. 🤞
 

b1gLoRD

n00b
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Messages
63
These cables are working very well for me on a desktop CX48 and living room CX65. CX48 is on a 6900 XT running 10 bit RGB 4:4:4, 4K, 120Hz, VRR, HDR, etc.

8K 60Hz HDMI Cable 6.6FT (2 Pack),48Gbps 7680P Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cord for Apple TV,Roku,Samsung QLED,Sony LG,Nintendo Switch,Playstation,PS5,PS4,Xbox One Series X,HDMI 2.0/4K 120Hz Compatible​


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T32WTX

there is also new certified one which was used by few guys on forums without issues
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Maxonar-Certified-Ultra-48Gbps/dp/B08P5PPWRB/

I would rather reccomend using certified one than random.
 

Porter_

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
8,269
These cables are working very well for me on a desktop CX48 and living room CX65. CX48 is on a 6900 XT running 10 bit RGB 4:4:4, 4K, 120Hz, VRR, HDR, etc.

8K 60Hz HDMI Cable 6.6FT (2 Pack),48Gbps 7680P Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cord for Apple TV,Roku,Samsung QLED,Sony LG,Nintendo Switch,Playstation,PS5,PS4,Xbox One Series X,HDMI 2.0/4K 120Hz Compatible​


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T32WTX

there is also new certified one which was used by few guys on forums without issues
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Maxonar-Certified-Ultra-48Gbps/dp/B08P5PPWRB/

I would rather reccomend using certified one than random.
Thanks guys. I’ve got a 3080 on the way and I’m currently using a Monoprice 8K cable. I’m obviously hoping it works fine, but it’s good to have options if it doesn’t.
 

Armenius

Fully [H]
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Jan 28, 2014
Messages
25,326
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC
The packaging for that cable lacks the HDMI authentication label, which is required for the use of the Ultra High Speed designation on cables. Use this to look for good cables in the future:

https://hdmi.org/spec21sub/ultrahighspeedcable

UHS_Program_Identification_09282020.jpg

UHS-Cable-Verification-09282020.jpg
 

MistaSparkul

[H]ard|Gawd
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Messages
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I have been using a non certified cable for a while without any issues. Cable length could also be a factor in signal stability too. Mine is a 2m cable from Club3D.
 

SmootyPoody

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 22, 2018
Messages
74
It is most likely the cable. It might be worth trying a lower bandwidth for a while, like using 8 bit and see if it fixes it.

The packaging for that cable lacks the HDMI authentication label, which is required for the use of the Ultra High Speed designation on cables. Use this to look for good cables in the future:

https://hdmi.org/spec21sub/ultrahighspeedcable

View attachment 321201

View attachment 321202
Ya, I also have the cable as the possible culprit as its most likely. As I have not heard any widespread issues regarding this and the RTX 30-series neither the OLED.

Thank you all that chimed in on the black outs.. Also the ones not quoted. Will try to lower it to 8 bit for a while an see how things go. Will also look for the certified ULTRA speed HDMI logo. Thanks.
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
16,311
I have been using a non certified cable for a while without any issues. Cable length could also be a factor in signal stability too. Mine is a 2m cable from Club3D.
Yeah, my Mediabridge HDMI 2.0 cable that I was using previously ended up working just fine at 4K 120Hz RGB. So it appears that I didn't need to purchase an HDMI 2.1 cable after all. Haven't had any dropouts or anything. So, I guess it doesn't hurt to try your existing cable and see if it works. If not, can always pick up one of the recommended cables in this thread.
 

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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FWIW, my Mediabridge HDMI 2.0 cable that I was using previously ended up working just fine at 4K 120Hz RGB. So it appears that I didn't need to purchase an HDMI 2.1 cable after all. Haven't had any dropouts or anything. So, I guess it doesn't hurt to try your existing cable and see if it works. If not, can always pick up one of the recommended cables in this thread.
Plenty of 2.0 cables work fine with 2.1. Give it a shot and see for sure. If you want to pay 2X or 3X for a "certified cable," more power to you. Plenty of the "certified cables" are cheap trash as well.
 

mirkendargen

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Dec 29, 2006
Messages
362
For people battling phantom display headaches around audio devices...I finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz. The answer is DSR in NVCP. If the TV is your only display and your receiver supports 1080p 120hz, use CRU to edit the EDID for your receiver to disable everything above 1080p (like if it support 4k/60 but not 4k/120), enable a DSR scaling factor that puts your 1080p receiver at 4k (1.78x I believe), set the resolution on the phantom display of your receiver to your newly available 4k/120hz, then in the Windows display settings duplicate your TV and receiver display. Ta-da, no more phantom display. Same thing if you have another monitor. I have the TV and a 1440p monitor (which has HDMI) hooked up, and an HDMI DAC that supports video passthru...but doesn't work at 1440p. No problem, I set it to 720p, DSR'ed it up to 1440p, and mirrored it to my 1440p monitor. Done!
 
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Monstieur

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For people battling phantom display headaches around audio devices...I finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz. The answer is DSR in NVCP. If the TV is your only display and your receiver supports 1080p 120hz, use CRU to edit the EDID for your receiver to disable everything above 1080p (like if it support 4k/60 but not 4k/120), enable a DSR scaling factor that puts your 1080p receiver at 4k (1.78x I believe), set the resolution on the phantom display of your receiver to your newly available 4k/120hz, then in the Windows display settings duplicate your TV and receiver display. Ta-da, no more phantom display. Same thing if you have another monitor. I have the TV and a 1440p monitor (which has HDMI) hooked up, and an HDMI DAC that supports video passthru...but doesn't work at 1440p. No problem, I set it to 720p, DSR'ed it up to 1440p, and mirrored it to my 1440p monitor. Done!
Use only NVCP to initially setup the cloned displays. Windows Display settings can result in software cloning with a performance hit. Once you've setup cloning with NVCP, you can use Win + P to toggle it without losing hardware cloning. You also need to match the refresh rates exactly down to the last 3 decimal places by tweaking the timings. Otherwise you'll have stuttering on the desktop.

Dolby Atmos for home theater should work fine over eARC, but it has a slight latency penalty and prevents the Dolby Surround upmixer from working for PCM content. You have to toggle it off when required and 7.1 PCM eARC still seems to be broken. Xbox actually has the Dolby Surround upmixer built in, so PCM content gets upmixed at the source and sent as an Atmos bitstream to the AVR.
 
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elvn

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I used a 120hz screen in the center with 60hz on the sides for years. They used to stutter on video playback back then but when I set the 60 Hz displays to hardware scaling it would go away. My last setup was a 1440p 144hz monitor in the middle and I didn't even have to do that if I'm remembering correctly. There was no stuttering, but again that was extending the desktop, not cloning displays.

I've attempted the phantom monitor trick before but I hated how it would reconfigure my desktop item's locations every time I turned the receiver off (since part of the desktop map would disappear as if a monitor was disconnected) so I gave up on that method. However it was just made as an extra monitor on and extended desktop, not a cloned one like you are suggesting. It sounds like a very clever workaround if it works 100% and you have compatible hardware .. I'm curious if cloning a gaming monitor that has g-sync and other features would cause issues with the receiver clone lacking those features though.

finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz.

My side monitors are 60hz non gaming TVs and they don't have hdmi 2.1 eARC, otherwise I could use 60hz featureless TV to 60hz featureless AVR and clone those for audio

... or I could just use the 60hz TV's audio processing out of a hdmi cable via arc/eARC normally in the first place as a hdmi sound device in windows if the TV and receiver were full featured and were working properly.

Those side tvs are samsung NU6900 which have this for arc:


ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)
eARC support = No

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = No

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No
5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No
5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes
5.1 DTS via Optical = No

This TV doesn't support DTS formats.


So normally I'd only bother using the LG CX's eARC which has Dolby TrueHD/Atmos full uncomrpessed hdmi audio format support. My receiver on my PC is a hand me down from my living room but is still a decent 7.1 surround onkyo (I upgraded to a denon several years ago in the living room)...
The Onkyo SR607 decodes Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD Master Audio, Dolby Digital Plus, DTS HD, Dolby Digital EX, DTS-ES Discrete/Matrix and DTS 96/24. (It also supports PCM / uncompressed PCM). Since it only has arc and not eARC, I'd have to use the shARC device in order to deliver uncomrpessed audio formats and in 7.1 on it via a regular non-arc hdmi input on the back.


So instead I bought a shARC device but I haven't hooked it up yet. Some people do still have issues with audio delays and glitching using the sharc though from what I've heard.. or people without sharc's who have hdmi 2.1 eArc capable receivers. The shARC doesn't bypass the tv, it just provides the receiver/AVR with an add-on eARC input in the shARC box essentially. So the shARC and receiver are still limited by how well the LG CX does audio format pass through. So that is what I am stuck with unless I want to pass on uncompressed hdmi audio formats and keep using optical like I am now.
 
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hhkb

Limp Gawd
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Can anyone recommend a good productivity monitor to pair with this? Either 27" or 32". Mostly for viewing text during the day, no gaming - sharper the text the better. Is 4k@27 overkill?

edit: Gez everything is sold out! Only thing I found in stock is a Dell P2721Q which seems decent.
 
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sharknice

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Can anyone recommend a good productivity monitor to pair with this? Either 27" or 32". Mostly for viewing text during the day, no gaming - sharper the text the better. Is 4k@27 overkill?

edit: Gez everything is sold out! Only thing I found in stock is a Dell P2721Q which seems decent.

Just use whatever you already have. Nothing really "pairs" with it. You're not going to match the colors, black level, or anything like that. Best you could do is sort of match the size and resolution by having 2 24" 1080p screens stacked on the side.
 

b1gLoRD

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Plenty of 2.0 cables work fine with 2.1. Give it a shot and see for sure. If you want to pay 2X or 3X for a "certified cable," more power to you. Plenty of the "certified cables" are cheap trash as well.
Its possible that many of the 2.0 could pass the ceritfication, even club 3d hdmi 2.1 cable is selling for more than 2 years but certification started only on the end of previous year after that they changed the package to show certification but older purchases should be the same quality.
This certification is done be HDMI org not by manufacturer so they could not pass if the are cheap and trash. Only possibility is they have bad quality control or even they send different procut for certification that they are selling to customers.

So buying certified one you should have better chance it would work properly.
 

hhkb

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Just use whatever you already have. Nothing really "pairs" with it. You're not going to match the colors, black level, or anything like that. Best you could do is sort of match the size and resolution by having 2 24" 1080p screens stacked on the side.

I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.
 

MrTX

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yeah what I posted is not deep at all.. it's mainly just setting it up to pass through HDR using madVR when playing on mpc-hc.

MPC-HC menus:
..Set the output to MADVR
..Set the video accel type to turn it on or off (to use gpu accel or just cpu)

MadVR menu:
..set it to pass through HDR to the display.
.. don't need to adjust anything else since it's passthrough.
I notice you have the same setup as me (though I also have SVP Pro, which I disable when watching HDR movies). Does your 4K HDR movies colors "pop" more when NOT fullscreen, but gets less intense and darker when in fullscreen? I don't mean washed out because it's not washed out for sure (I can tell the difference), but for some reason non-fullscreen mpc-hc colors pop out more, as well as brightness/contrast are more intense. The TV does changes to HDR mode when mpc-hc is non-fullscreen or fullscreen, so I know it's not the TV.
 

elvn

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I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.
I use a 43" 4k on each side in portrait mode. I sit far enough that the PPD looks good for text on those. In fact I'm so far away in order to be at an optimal distance on the 48" OLED (scaled at 100% 1:1) that I decided to scale the 43" screens to 125%.

Since both my 2nd desk island and my chair are on caster wheels (which I upgraded to really good roller-blade style ones) it's easy to just black out the oled if I'm not using it (or leave a video or slideshow on it) and focus/align more on a 43" screen for awhile. If I'm going to be doing something I usually rotate a little to the right. I can use all three screens from the center though with a slight turn of my head, I'm guessing 20 to 25 deg to either side, without moving the desk, and I can follow that up by spinning my chair that much if I'm not just looking.

It would be easy to have the 48" + one screen if you had a stand that could hold the 43" in landscape or portrait mode. I keep mine in portrait because with 3 the array is so wide, but with two you could probably keep the 2nd one in landscape, epecially if your desk is on wheels. I also often keep a 15" 4k laptop (scaled 150%) on the right side too for while gaming fullscreen exclusive mode and I have my phone on a desk bracket bendable rod thing.. so I'm not saying smaller screens wouldn't work. Smaller screens up close, LG 48 CX at ~ 38" to 48" away. THX and SMPTE standard's optimal viewing of 45 to 50 deg starts at 44.5" (at 50deg)for the 48" screen but somewhat closer is fine for gaming I've found.

According to rtings recommendations there are no other 48" screens only 43" and 49". I got my side tv's for $360 - $390 each so they are a pretty good deal. 6100:1 contrast 60hz 4k VA.
 
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elvn

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I notice you have the same setup as me (though I also have SVP Pro, which I disable when watching HDR movies). Does your 4K HDR movies colors "pop" more when NOT fullscreen, but gets less intense and darker when in fullscreen? I don't mean washed out because it's not washed out for sure (I can tell the difference), but for some reason non-fullscreen mpc-hc colors pop out more, as well as brightness/contrast are more intense. The TV does changes to HDR mode when mpc-hc is non-fullscreen or fullscreen, so I know it's not the TV.

I'll have to check it out. I've mostly been using the OLED to play jedi-fallen order in exlusive fullscreen mode for HDR lately.

I set mpc-hc to automatically open in full screen on that screen # in the array no matter where it is launched from so I only watch them full screen. I will say that a lot of things on displays in general look tighter when smaller because it is like supersampling a greater rez down (like watching 4k rez content on a 1080p screen or window). I don't know if that applies to what you feel you are seeing but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

edit:
-- also make sure dynamic tone mapping is turned off on the tv and in madvr
-- ensure that HDR is still switching into full HDR metadata mode. Try shutting the video player off, then toggling the windows HDR slider back and forth (or use the tray app that can do it), then re-launch the video full screen. You can set it to launch full screen (and on which monitor # of the windows array) in player settings, at least for mpc-hc.

Mine was being buggy with HDR switching at a few points in my ownership, even from lowered HDR color brightness with HDR always on in windows to full HDR metadata failing to kick in on a fullscreen game or movie. Seems clunky at times. I haven't noticed it lately though and I have a new firmware so fingers crossed.
 
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mirkendargen

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I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.
32" 1440p or 24" 1080p are the same PPI so scaling is uniform. That's the most "complementing" in my opinion.
 

MistaSparkul

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I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.

Back when my CX was stuck using 4:2:0 in 120Hz mode on a 2080 Ti, I had my Acer X27 arm mounted and set as the secondary monitor and I had it placed in front of my CX for doing any desktop business. The CX was kept turned off until it was time to play some games then I simply swung the X27 out of the way. Is this something that's viable for you? Just have your main desktop monitor arm mounted and then bring it to the front of the CX whenever you need it then swing it away once you don't.
 

NukeDukem

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Just have your main desktop monitor arm mounted and then bring it to the front of the CX whenever you need it then swing it away once you don't.

This. I keep my 32" 1440p VA on an arm and swivel it around as necessary. The black background is of course not comparable to the OLED it sits next to, but it is about as dark as LCD's will get. I don't find it distracting, and it serves its purpose well.
 
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hhkb

Limp Gawd
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This. I keep my 32" 1440p VA on an arm and swivel it around as necessary. The black background is of course not comparable to the OLED it sits next to, but it is about as dark as LCD's will get. I don't find it distracting, and it serves its purpose well.
I actually had a LG 32GK850G, sold it to help fund the LG CX 🤣 . Great gaming screen! I always found the fonts to be a bit fuzzy though. I'm thinking about getting one of the newer 4k LG 32 VAs, like the 32UN500 - which is insanely cheap, at 350. If I can get 32" with clear text I will be golden. Interesting about mounting it to the side and bringing it over. I'll have to experiment - what I've been doing is putting a 27" screen w/ stand in front of the CX when I'm working during the day. 32" might be a bit too big for this but 27 also felt too small (especially with the 48" CX behind it :)).
 

kasakka

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I had an old 27" 1440p TN panel display next to my LG CX 48" for some time but without mounting it on a monitor arm it wasn't that great to use. Image quality aside, as far as pixel density goes I felt it was a decent enough combination to pair with the CX as the much closer viewing distance for the 27" ended up looking somewhat similar to the CX at 1m away.

I use my CX with 125% scaling. I use 120% on MacOS, which I find is ideal, just does not work as well on Windows as some UI is scaled at 100% with a custom 120% scale. Anyway, I find that 1m distance with 100% scaling is just uncomfortable small for me to view plus the DPI scaling of course improves text rendering a bit. I really wish Microsoft made their system work at other than these 25% increases which work fine for small 4K displays but are plain awful for anything else. 110%, 120% would be good additions to the low end of the scale.
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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I do all my work on Linux, which works great with scaling in my opinion. Anyways, I preordered a Asus Tuf VG289Q, should arrive in a couple weeks. Seems to tick all my boxes - 28" 4k (I think 32 would be too large), IPS, not too expensive (350), and a great stand. I'll just put it on my desk in front of the CX then move it when not working. I have a spare ergotron LX but the CX is just too big, there is no where for me to mount it on my desk without being annoying. I'll have to think about it...
 
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nighty2k20

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Messages
21
I had an old 27" 1440p TN panel display next to my LG CX 48" for some time but without mounting it on a monitor arm it wasn't that great to use. Image quality aside, as far as pixel density goes I felt it was a decent enough combination to pair with the CX as the much closer viewing distance for the 27" ended up looking somewhat similar to the CX at 1m away.

I use my CX with 125% scaling. I use 120% on MacOS, which I find is ideal, just does not work as well on Windows as some UI is scaled at 100% with a custom 120% scale. Anyway, I find that 1m distance with 100% scaling is just uncomfortable small for me to view plus the DPI scaling of course improves text rendering a bit. I really wish Microsoft made their system work at other than these 25% increases which work fine for small 4K displays but are plain awful for anything else. 110%, 120% would be good additions to the low end of the scale.

There's an option for just entering a custom scaling value between 100-500
 

Baenwort

Limp Gawd
Joined
Oct 10, 2003
Messages
182
So can someone confirm that the newest firmware and VRR not longer result in elevated black levels when the frame rate is near the bottom of the band?
 

caffix

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
68
I have an issue with my setup. Short story is - my 3090 graphics card single HDMI port appears to have fried, along with one of the HDMI ports on the TV. I've tried changing the cable and connecting a different source to the TV too, and definitely confirmed that the HDMI port is fried along with the graphics card HDMI port.

I have no idea how this happened - I had upgraded the motherboard but was very careful in moving the card to the new case & motherboard.

The 3 x DisplayPort connectors are working on the graphics card, and I still have one spare HDMI port on the TV to use.

I think have two options:

1) RMA the graphics card in the hope they will repair it
2) Try using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter

Are there any good DIsplayPort to HDMI adapters, and are there any limitations e.g. can no longer use Gsync?
 

mirkendargen

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
362
I have an issue with my setup. Short story is - my 3090 graphics card single HDMI port appears to have fried, along with one of the HDMI ports on the TV. I've tried changing the cable and connecting a different source to the TV too, and definitely confirmed that the HDMI port is fried along with the graphics card HDMI port.

I have no idea how this happened - I had upgraded the motherboard but was very careful in moving the card to the new case & motherboard.

The 3 x DisplayPort connectors are working on the graphics card, and I still have one spare HDMI port on the TV to use.

I think have two options:

1) RMA the graphics card in the hope they will repair it
2) Try using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter

Are there any good DIsplayPort to HDMI adapters, and are there any limitations e.g. can no longer use Gsync?
You should RMA your card, there's no solution currently available without compromises.
 

MistaSparkul

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
1,677
I do all my work on Linux, which works great with scaling in my opinion. Anyways, I preordered a Asus Tuf VG289Q, should arrive in a couple weeks. Seems to tick all my boxes - 28" 4k (I think 32 would be too large), IPS, not too expensive (350), and a great stand. I'll just put it on my desk in front of the CX then move it when not working. I have a spare ergotron LX but the CX is just too big, there is no where for me to mount it on my desk without being annoying. I'll have to think about it...

I had my arm mount attached to the side of my desk since, like you said, the CX was simply too big for me to mount the arm anywhere in the back of my desk. Lifting the whole monitor on/off your desk seems a lot more annoying lol.
 
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