LG 48CX

[MistaSparkul]

I have been using a non certified cable for a while without any issues. Cable length could also be a factor in signal stability too. Mine is a 2m cable from Club3D.

 

[SmootyPoody]

It is most likely the cable. It might be worth trying a lower bandwidth for a while, like using 8 bit and see if it fixes it.

The packaging for that cable lacks the HDMI authentication label, which is required for the use of the Ultra High Speed designation on cables. Use this to look for good cables in the future:

https://hdmi.org/spec21sub/ultrahighspeedcable

View attachment 321201

View attachment 321202

Ya, I also have the cable as the possible culprit as its most likely. As I have not heard any widespread issues regarding this and the RTX 30-series neither the OLED.

Thank you all that chimed in on the black outs.. Also the ones not quoted. Will try to lower it to 8 bit for a while an see how things go. Will also look for the certified ULTRA speed HDMI logo. Thanks.

 

[Lateralus]

I have been using a non certified cable for a while without any issues. Cable length could also be a factor in signal stability too. Mine is a 2m cable from Club3D.

Yeah, my Mediabridge HDMI 2.0 cable that I was using previously ended up working just fine at 4K 120Hz RGB. So it appears that I didn't need to purchase an HDMI 2.1 cable after all. Haven't had any dropouts or anything. So, I guess it doesn't hurt to try your existing cable and see if it works. If not, can always pick up one of the recommended cables in this thread.

 

[FrgMstr]

FWIW, my Mediabridge HDMI 2.0 cable that I was using previously ended up working just fine at 4K 120Hz RGB. So it appears that I didn't need to purchase an HDMI 2.1 cable after all. Haven't had any dropouts or anything. So, I guess it doesn't hurt to try your existing cable and see if it works. If not, can always pick up one of the recommended cables in this thread.

Plenty of 2.0 cables work fine with 2.1. Give it a shot and see for sure. If you want to pay 2X or 3X for a "certified cable," more power to you. Plenty of the "certified cables" are cheap trash as well.

 

[mirkendargen]

For people battling phantom display headaches around audio devices...I finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz. The answer is DSR in NVCP. If the TV is your only display and your receiver supports 1080p 120hz, use CRU to edit the EDID for your receiver to disable everything above 1080p (like if it support 4k/60 but not 4k/120), enable a DSR scaling factor that puts your 1080p receiver at 4k (1.78x I believe), set the resolution on the phantom display of your receiver to your newly available 4k/120hz, then in the Windows display settings duplicate your TV and receiver display. Ta-da, no more phantom display. Same thing if you have another monitor. I have the TV and a 1440p monitor (which has HDMI) hooked up, and an HDMI DAC that supports video passthru...but doesn't work at 1440p. No problem, I set it to 720p, DSR'ed it up to 1440p, and mirrored it to my 1440p monitor. Done!

 

[Monstieur]

For people battling phantom display headaches around audio devices...I finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz. The answer is DSR in NVCP. If the TV is your only display and your receiver supports 1080p 120hz, use CRU to edit the EDID for your receiver to disable everything above 1080p (like if it support 4k/60 but not 4k/120), enable a DSR scaling factor that puts your 1080p receiver at 4k (1.78x I believe), set the resolution on the phantom display of your receiver to your newly available 4k/120hz, then in the Windows display settings duplicate your TV and receiver display. Ta-da, no more phantom display. Same thing if you have another monitor. I have the TV and a 1440p monitor (which has HDMI) hooked up, and an HDMI DAC that supports video passthru...but doesn't work at 1440p. No problem, I set it to 720p, DSR'ed it up to 1440p, and mirrored it to my 1440p monitor. Done!

Use only NVCP to initially setup the cloned displays. Windows Display settings can result in software cloning with a performance hit. Once you've setup cloning with NVCP, you can use Win + P to toggle it without losing hardware cloning. You also need to match the refresh rates exactly down to the last 3 decimal places by tweaking the timings. Otherwise you'll have stuttering on the desktop.

Dolby Atmos for home theater should work fine over eARC, but it has a slight latency penalty and prevents the Dolby Surround upmixer from working for PCM content. You have to toggle it off when required and 7.1 PCM eARC still seems to be broken. Xbox actually has the Dolby Surround upmixer built in, so PCM content gets upmixed at the source and sent as an Atmos bitstream to the AVR.

 

[elvn]

I used a 120hz screen in the center with 60hz on the sides for years. They used to stutter on video playback back then but when I set the 60 Hz displays to hardware scaling it would go away. My last setup was a 1440p 144hz monitor in the middle and I didn't even have to do that if I'm remembering correctly. There was no stuttering, but again that was extending the desktop, not cloning displays.

I've attempted the phantom monitor trick before but I hated how it would reconfigure my desktop item's locations every time I turned the receiver off (since part of the desktop map would disappear as if a monitor was disconnected) so I gave up on that method. However it was just made as an extra monitor on and extended desktop, not a cloned one like you are suggesting. It sounds like a very clever workaround if it works 100% and you have compatible hardware .. I'm curious if cloning a gaming monitor that has g-sync and other features would cause issues with the receiver clone lacking those features though.

finally figured out a good solution as long as you have a receiver/other HDMI audio device that supports 120hz OR another monitor that you run at 60hz.

My side monitors are 60hz non gaming TVs and they don't have hdmi 2.1 eARC, otherwise I could use 60hz featureless TV to 60hz featureless AVR and clone those for audio

... or I could just use the 60hz TV's audio processing out of a hdmi cable via arc/eARC normally in the first place as a hdmi sound device in windows if the TV and receiver were full featured and were working properly.

Those side tvs are samsung NU6900 which have this for arc:


ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)
eARC support = No

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = No

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No
5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No
5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes
5.1 DTS via Optical = No

This TV doesn't support DTS formats.


So normally I'd only bother using the LG CX's eARC which has Dolby TrueHD/Atmos full uncomrpessed hdmi audio format support. My receiver on my PC is a hand me down from my living room but is still a decent 7.1 surround onkyo (I upgraded to a denon several years ago in the living room)...
The Onkyo SR607 decodes Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD Master Audio, Dolby Digital Plus, DTS HD, Dolby Digital EX, DTS-ES Discrete/Matrix and DTS 96/24. (It also supports PCM / uncompressed PCM). Since it only has arc and not eARC, I'd have to use the shARC device in order to deliver uncomrpessed audio formats and in 7.1 on it via a regular non-arc hdmi input on the back.


So instead I bought a shARC device but I haven't hooked it up yet. Some people do still have issues with audio delays and glitching using the sharc though from what I've heard.. or people without sharc's who have hdmi 2.1 eArc capable receivers. The shARC doesn't bypass the tv, it just provides the receiver/AVR with an add-on eARC input in the shARC box essentially. So the shARC and receiver are still limited by how well the LG CX does audio format pass through. So that is what I am stuck with unless I want to pass on uncompressed hdmi audio formats and keep using optical like I am now.

 

[hhkb]

Can anyone recommend a good productivity monitor to pair with this? Either 27" or 32". Mostly for viewing text during the day, no gaming - sharper the text the better. Is 4k@27 overkill?

edit: Gez everything is sold out! Only thing I found in stock is a Dell P2721Q which seems decent.

 

[sharknice]

Can anyone recommend a good productivity monitor to pair with this? Either 27" or 32". Mostly for viewing text during the day, no gaming - sharper the text the better. Is 4k@27 overkill?

edit: Gez everything is sold out! Only thing I found in stock is a Dell P2721Q which seems decent.

Just use whatever you already have. Nothing really "pairs" with it. You're not going to match the colors, black level, or anything like that. Best you could do is sort of match the size and resolution by having 2 24" 1080p screens stacked on the side.

 

[b1gLoRD]

Plenty of 2.0 cables work fine with 2.1. Give it a shot and see for sure. If you want to pay 2X or 3X for a "certified cable," more power to you. Plenty of the "certified cables" are cheap trash as well.

Its possible that many of the 2.0 could pass the ceritfication, even club 3d hdmi 2.1 cable is selling for more than 2 years but certification started only on the end of previous year after that they changed the package to show certification but older purchases should be the same quality.
This certification is done be HDMI org not by manufacturer so they could not pass if the are cheap and trash. Only possibility is they have bad quality control or even they send different procut for certification that they are selling to customers.

So buying certified one you should have better chance it would work properly.

 

[hhkb]

Just use whatever you already have. Nothing really "pairs" with it. You're not going to match the colors, black level, or anything like that. Best you could do is sort of match the size and resolution by having 2 24" 1080p screens stacked on the side.

I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.

 

[MrTX]

yeah what I posted is not deep at all.. it's mainly just setting it up to pass through HDR using madVR when playing on mpc-hc.

MPC-HC menus:
..Set the output to MADVR
..Set the video accel type to turn it on or off (to use gpu accel or just cpu)

MadVR menu:
..set it to pass through HDR to the display.
.. don't need to adjust anything else since it's passthrough.

I notice you have the same setup as me (though I also have SVP Pro, which I disable when watching HDR movies). Does your 4K HDR movies colors "pop" more when NOT fullscreen, but gets less intense and darker when in fullscreen? I don't mean washed out because it's not washed out for sure (I can tell the difference), but for some reason non-fullscreen mpc-hc colors pop out more, as well as brightness/contrast are more intense. The TV does changes to HDR mode when mpc-hc is non-fullscreen or fullscreen, so I know it's not the TV.

 

[elvn]

I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.

I use a 43" 4k on each side in portrait mode. I sit far enough that the PPD looks good for text on those. In fact I'm so far away in order to be at an optimal distance on the 48" OLED (scaled at 100% 1:1) that I decided to scale the 43" screens to 125%.

Since both my 2nd desk island and my chair are on caster wheels (which I upgraded to really good roller-blade style ones) it's easy to just black out the oled if I'm not using it (or leave a video or slideshow on it) and focus/align more on a 43" screen for awhile. If I'm going to be doing something I usually rotate a little to the right. I can use all three screens from the center though with a slight turn of my head, I'm guessing 20 to 25 deg to either side, without moving the desk, and I can follow that up by spinning my chair that much if I'm not just looking.

It would be easy to have the 48" + one screen if you had a stand that could hold the 43" in landscape or portrait mode. I keep mine in portrait because with 3 the array is so wide, but with two you could probably keep the 2nd one in landscape, epecially if your desk is on wheels. I also often keep a 15" 4k laptop (scaled 150%) on the right side too for while gaming fullscreen exclusive mode and I have my phone on a desk bracket bendable rod thing.. so I'm not saying smaller screens wouldn't work. Smaller screens up close, LG 48 CX at ~ 38" to 48" away. THX and SMPTE standard's optimal viewing of 45 to 50 deg starts at 44.5" (at 50deg)for the 48" screen but somewhat closer is fine for gaming I've found.

According to rtings recommendations there are no other 48" screens only 43" and 49". I got my side tv's for $360 - $390 each so they are a pretty good deal. 6100:1 contrast 60hz 4k VA.

 

[elvn]

I notice you have the same setup as me (though I also have SVP Pro, which I disable when watching HDR movies). Does your 4K HDR movies colors "pop" more when NOT fullscreen, but gets less intense and darker when in fullscreen? I don't mean washed out because it's not washed out for sure (I can tell the difference), but for some reason non-fullscreen mpc-hc colors pop out more, as well as brightness/contrast are more intense. The TV does changes to HDR mode when mpc-hc is non-fullscreen or fullscreen, so I know it's not the TV.

I'll have to check it out. I've mostly been using the OLED to play jedi-fallen order in exlusive fullscreen mode for HDR lately.

I set mpc-hc to automatically open in full screen on that screen # in the array no matter where it is launched from so I only watch them full screen. I will say that a lot of things on displays in general look tighter when smaller because it is like supersampling a greater rez down (like watching 4k rez content on a 1080p screen or window). I don't know if that applies to what you feel you are seeing but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

edit:
-- also make sure dynamic tone mapping is turned off on the tv and in madvr
-- ensure that HDR is still switching into full HDR metadata mode. Try shutting the video player off, then toggling the windows HDR slider back and forth (or use the tray app that can do it), then re-launch the video full screen. You can set it to launch full screen (and on which monitor # of the windows array) in player settings, at least for mpc-hc.

Mine was being buggy with HDR switching at a few points in my ownership, even from lowered HDR color brightness with HDR always on in windows to full HDR metadata failing to kick in on a fullscreen game or movie. Seems clunky at times. I haven't noticed it lately though and I have a new firmware so fingers crossed.

 

[mirkendargen]

I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.

32" 1440p or 24" 1080p are the same PPI so scaling is uniform. That's the most "complementing" in my opinion.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I meant what complements it. I had a 27 1440p LG IPS but had to give it to my family member. So looking at buying a dedicated screen just for work during the day time. Since I'm buying it just for office work, text clarity beats everything else. But maybe it's too off topic for this thread.

Back when my CX was stuck using 4:2:0 in 120Hz mode on a 2080 Ti, I had my Acer X27 arm mounted and set as the secondary monitor and I had it placed in front of my CX for doing any desktop business. The CX was kept turned off until it was time to play some games then I simply swung the X27 out of the way. Is this something that's viable for you? Just have your main desktop monitor arm mounted and then bring it to the front of the CX whenever you need it then swing it away once you don't.

 

[NukeDukem]

Just have your main desktop monitor arm mounted and then bring it to the front of the CX whenever you need it then swing it away once you don't.

This. I keep my 32" 1440p VA on an arm and swivel it around as necessary. The black background is of course not comparable to the OLED it sits next to, but it is about as dark as LCD's will get. I don't find it distracting, and it serves its purpose well.

 

[hhkb]

This. I keep my 32" 1440p VA on an arm and swivel it around as necessary. The black background is of course not comparable to the OLED it sits next to, but it is about as dark as LCD's will get. I don't find it distracting, and it serves its purpose well.

I actually had a LG 32GK850G, sold it to help fund the LG CX . Great gaming screen! I always found the fonts to be a bit fuzzy though. I'm thinking about getting one of the newer 4k LG 32 VAs, like the 32UN500 - which is insanely cheap, at 350. If I can get 32" with clear text I will be golden. Interesting about mounting it to the side and bringing it over. I'll have to experiment - what I've been doing is putting a 27" screen w/ stand in front of the CX when I'm working during the day. 32" might be a bit too big for this but 27 also felt too small (especially with the 48" CX behind it ).

 

[kasakka]

I had an old 27" 1440p TN panel display next to my LG CX 48" for some time but without mounting it on a monitor arm it wasn't that great to use. Image quality aside, as far as pixel density goes I felt it was a decent enough combination to pair with the CX as the much closer viewing distance for the 27" ended up looking somewhat similar to the CX at 1m away.

I use my CX with 125% scaling. I use 120% on MacOS, which I find is ideal, just does not work as well on Windows as some UI is scaled at 100% with a custom 120% scale. Anyway, I find that 1m distance with 100% scaling is just uncomfortable small for me to view plus the DPI scaling of course improves text rendering a bit. I really wish Microsoft made their system work at other than these 25% increases which work fine for small 4K displays but are plain awful for anything else. 110%, 120% would be good additions to the low end of the scale.

 

[hhkb]

I do all my work on Linux, which works great with scaling in my opinion. Anyways, I preordered a Asus Tuf VG289Q, should arrive in a couple weeks. Seems to tick all my boxes - 28" 4k (I think 32 would be too large), IPS, not too expensive (350), and a great stand. I'll just put it on my desk in front of the CX then move it when not working. I have a spare ergotron LX but the CX is just too big, there is no where for me to mount it on my desk without being annoying. I'll have to think about it...

 

[nighty2k20]

I had an old 27" 1440p TN panel display next to my LG CX 48" for some time but without mounting it on a monitor arm it wasn't that great to use. Image quality aside, as far as pixel density goes I felt it was a decent enough combination to pair with the CX as the much closer viewing distance for the 27" ended up looking somewhat similar to the CX at 1m away.

I use my CX with 125% scaling. I use 120% on MacOS, which I find is ideal, just does not work as well on Windows as some UI is scaled at 100% with a custom 120% scale. Anyway, I find that 1m distance with 100% scaling is just uncomfortable small for me to view plus the DPI scaling of course improves text rendering a bit. I really wish Microsoft made their system work at other than these 25% increases which work fine for small 4K displays but are plain awful for anything else. 110%, 120% would be good additions to the low end of the scale.

There's an option for just entering a custom scaling value between 100-500

 

[Baenwort]

So can someone confirm that the newest firmware and VRR not longer result in elevated black levels when the frame rate is near the bottom of the band?

 

[caffix]

I have an issue with my setup. Short story is - my 3090 graphics card single HDMI port appears to have fried, along with one of the HDMI ports on the TV. I've tried changing the cable and connecting a different source to the TV too, and definitely confirmed that the HDMI port is fried along with the graphics card HDMI port.

I have no idea how this happened - I had upgraded the motherboard but was very careful in moving the card to the new case & motherboard.

The 3 x DisplayPort connectors are working on the graphics card, and I still have one spare HDMI port on the TV to use.

I think have two options:

1) RMA the graphics card in the hope they will repair it
2) Try using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter

Are there any good DIsplayPort to HDMI adapters, and are there any limitations e.g. can no longer use Gsync?

 

[mirkendargen]

I have an issue with my setup. Short story is - my 3090 graphics card single HDMI port appears to have fried, along with one of the HDMI ports on the TV. I've tried changing the cable and connecting a different source to the TV too, and definitely confirmed that the HDMI port is fried along with the graphics card HDMI port.

I have no idea how this happened - I had upgraded the motherboard but was very careful in moving the card to the new case & motherboard.

The 3 x DisplayPort connectors are working on the graphics card, and I still have one spare HDMI port on the TV to use.

I think have two options:

1) RMA the graphics card in the hope they will repair it
2) Try using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter

Are there any good DIsplayPort to HDMI adapters, and are there any limitations e.g. can no longer use Gsync?

You should RMA your card, there's no solution currently available without compromises.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I do all my work on Linux, which works great with scaling in my opinion. Anyways, I preordered a Asus Tuf VG289Q, should arrive in a couple weeks. Seems to tick all my boxes - 28" 4k (I think 32 would be too large), IPS, not too expensive (350), and a great stand. I'll just put it on my desk in front of the CX then move it when not working. I have a spare ergotron LX but the CX is just too big, there is no where for me to mount it on my desk without being annoying. I'll have to think about it...

I had my arm mount attached to the side of my desk since, like you said, the CX was simply too big for me to mount the arm anywhere in the back of my desk. Lifting the whole monitor on/off your desk seems a lot more annoying lol.

 

[SD777]

Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

 

[nighty2k20]

Ya, I also have the cable as the possible culprit as its most likely. As I have not heard any widespread issues regarding this and the RTX 30-series neither the OLED.

Thank you all that chimed in on the black outs.. Also the ones not quoted. Will try to lower it to 8 bit for a while an see how things go. Will also look for the certified ULTRA speed HDMI logo. Thanks.

YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

 

[jack81]

been using the cx for a few weeks now with my 3090 and the colors/features are amazing! (when they work that is)

recently though, I realize that if the TV turns off while my PC stays on (for example, if I have to go afk for a hr, I would want to turn off my TV to limit burn in, but won't necessarily turn off my PC if stuff is running), turning on my TV again will never let me get the awesome 4K @ 120hz again (in NVCP, the max setting under "PC" is 2560x1440 @ 120, or 4K@60 under HDTV) until I reboot my PC.

I'm assuming this is a software/Windows 10 bug, what do you guys think? I have yet to try a new cable because I have one of those certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cables from zeskit, so I would assume that cabling isn't the issue here(?)

 

[mirkendargen]

been using the cx for a few weeks now with my 3090 and the colors/features are amazing! (when they work that is)

recently though, I realize that if the TV turns off while my PC stays on (for example, if I have to go afk for a hr, I would want to turn off my TV to limit burn in, but won't necessarily turn off my PC if stuff is running), turning on my TV again will never let me get the awesome 4K @ 120hz again (in NVCP, the max setting under "PC" is 2560x1440 @ 120, or 4K@60 under HDTV) until I reboot my PC.

I'm assuming this is a software/Windows 10 bug, what do you guys think? I have yet to try a new cable because I have one of those certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cables from zeskit, so I would assume that cabling isn't the issue here(?)

What GPU? I never had this issue with a 2080Ti or 3090. What length Zeskit cable? I'm not convinced certification tells the whole story on these, or there's some variation in manufacturing that make some on the edge/out of spec.

 

[jack81]

What GPU? I never had this issue with a 2080Ti or 3090. What length Zeskit cable? I'm not convinced certification tells the whole story on these, or there's some variation in manufacturing that make some on the edge/out of spec.

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

 

[Monstieur]

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

This is usually due to a defective cable renegotiating at a lower speed.

 

[sharknice]

I also have a 3090, and using with a 2m Zeskit cable. I can't quite remember the exact issues w/ my old 1080Ti, but there were similar issues present for sure (though I got them a lot less frequently for whatever reason).

If you disabled your TV/let the TV screen go to sleep while leaving your PC on, are you able to still retain 4K@120 when you wake up your computer?
For example, if my TV screen turns off due to inactivity (due to Windows 10's power and sleep config), when I wake it the TV either crashes my entire computer (in that it's clearly receiving signal since I get the "Instant Game Response is on" text on my TV, but just displays a black screen on all screens, and I have to force shut down the PC), or it's stuck at 4K@60 with no 4K@120 resolution present in NVCP. My other monitors (via displayport) don't have this issue, but they also aren't 4K@120hz haha

Yeah mine stays at 120hz when it turns back on. I have a 3090 with 2 other screens connected with displayport and then 2 more screens connected to a GTX 650. I've never hda any crashes or anything like that.

It sounds like it's probably a problem with your PC if it crashes your computer. Are you using the newest drivers? It's possible it's a hardware problem too. Cable, GPU, or PSU.

 

[eddie500]

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

 

[jack81]

This is usually due to a defective cable renegotiating at a lower speed.

thanks so much! I was confident in that it was a software issue, but this would also make a lot of sense. will send out an email to zeskit and see if I can RMA my current cable.

Yeah mine stays at 120hz when it turns back on. I have a 3090 with 2 other screens connected with displayport and then 2 more screens connected to a GTX 650. I've never hda any crashes or anything like that.

It sounds like it's probably a problem with your PC if it crashes your computer. Are you using the newest drivers? It's possible it's a hardware problem too. Cable, GPU, or PSU.

okay, I have a similar setup as you (3090, TV + 2 extra DP monitors). I am using the newest drivers, but I'll try and do a new installation of W10 sometime and see if that fixes it. I think Monstieur might be right in that it's a cable failing the HDMI handshake when booting again, but I hope to god it isn't my 3090 or my PSU (EVGA 850w G2). thanks for confirming!

 

[mirkendargen]

thanks so much! I was confident in that it was a software issue, but this would also make a lot of sense. will send out an email to zeskit and see if I can RMA my current cable.

okay, I have a similar setup as you (3090, TV + 2 extra DP monitors). I am using the newest drivers, but I'll try and do a new installation of W10 sometime and see if that fixes it. I think Monstieur might be right in that it's a cable failing the HDMI handshake when booting again, but I hope to god it isn't my 3090 or my PSU (EVGA 850w G2). thanks for confirming!

Yeah I've had occasional weirdness when starting my computer from off/rebooting, but never from turning the TV back on when the computer is already on. And the weirdness I've had is never unavailable display modes. The next time it happens mash the green button on the remote 8x and tell us what the bottom line says, that will confirm if it's negotiating a lower link speed or not.

I'm also using the Zeskit 2m cable.

 

[jack81]

Yeah I've had occasional weirdness when starting my computer from off/rebooting, but never from turning the TV back on when the computer is already on. And the weirdness I've had is never unavailable display modes. The next time it happens mash the green button on the remote 8x and tell us what the bottom line says, that will confirm if it's negotiating a lower link speed or not.

I'm also using the Zeskit 2m cable.

thanks for the tip!

I've actually done it before and it would report back one of three different things:
1. It would crash (all monitors and TV), where I have to physically hold down the power to reset the computer, as all monitors/TV are blank and I can not remote desktop in - in this case, it would show 4K@120hz, FIXED (not VRR), RGB 10b 4L10 with the occasional "Instant Game Response mode is active", until it disconnects after a while, where all info is --'d out (this is what originally led me to believe it wasn't the TV/cable's fault)
2. It would be forced into 4K@60hz, VRR, RGB 10b 4L10 or some other variation of a lower bandwidth limit (where the option of 4K@120 in NVCP isn't present, only up to 4K@60hz under HDTV and 1440p@120hz under PC)
3. It would work at the normal 4K@120hz, VRR, RGB 10b 4L10, but with crazy amounts of flickering (primarily on the two DisplayPort monitors, but also occassionally on the TV as well)

typing this out makes me feel like it might be due to a combination of my PC screwing up (issue #1) and the faulty cable negotiating at a lower speed (issue #2/3, maybe 1 too?). My original hypothesis for the crash (issue #1) was that due to negotiating at a lower bandwidth, my PC tries to force 4K@120/VRR/10b, which fails and thus crashes/freezes the computer. Do you guys think this is a plausible scenario?

I'll try swapping hard drives and boot up a new installation of W10 later and see if it's just my OS/on the software side. If that doesn't solve it, I'm inclined to believe that it should be a cable issue.

(BTW I've tried disabling instant game response and hdmi ultra hd deep color, but the issues still persist.)

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

I've been using my CX as my primary monitor for the past few weeks (think like 8+ hours a day) w/ desktop icons (although I'm never just idling w/ my desktop on the screen) and haven't experienced any issues with burn-in (though to be fair I don't have a ton of hours on compared to RTing's/HDTVTest's burn in tests). I think you should be fine if you're only using it for 2-4 hours a day.

 

[kasakka]

There's an option for just entering a custom scaling value between 100-500

Yes and it's a bit shit. It applies globally to all monitors and some apps won't understand it the way they do the 25% steps normally available. Often you end up with a weird mix where part of the UI is scaled and some of it isn't. Or text is scaled but icons etc are not. Likewise you also cannot change the scaling on the fly without logging out and back in first. I am not sure exactly what it does differently but it definitely does not work as nicely as the regular options. Having the 125% minimum step is annoying as I liked 110% on 1440p displays and 120% on my CX 48".

 

[kasakka]

I've been doing a lot of reading and can't get a straight answer.

Would you be OK using the CX 48 as a PC monitor for a dining room computer where you will use for 50% web browsing, mostly youtube, and 50% netflix movie watching? Computer will be used for 2-4 hours a day max.

Will leaving the desktop icons up in the background be an issue?

I get people who say it won't be an issue, then people who say it will be an issue.

That sounds like incredible overkill for an occasional use display. I'd just pick a decent LCD and not worry about image quality in that situation.

But if you want to go there it will work. I would hide desktop icons and taskbar, who needs them anyway.

 

[elvn]

I pin and favorite a "Desktop-Shortcuts" folder in my file browsers. I pin that same folder in the default windows file explorer as well but I use a 3rd party file browser called directory opus pretty much exclusively, where I favorite that folder in a favorites drop down.

In either case, you can set the folder to thumbnail view and adjust the size of the thumbs/icons to suit your taste. The folder view is just as good as a desktop view really. The "desktop" is a referenced icon folder itself after all, just mapped to the actual desktop app space. With directory opus I also have dual pane option with two panes like an open book. It uses tabbed browsing with tabs on the bottom of the panes. That way I can have multiple folder tabs open on each side of the book like dual pane browser and I can keep a tab open with the desktop icons/shortcuts if I need to use them or reference them for some reason (like editing their launch options or going into their properties to track down the installation folder, etc).

So I can use the file browser method pretty easily to take stock of what's installed but...

For general app launching it's easier to just hit Winkey+S (for the search to pop up) and immediately start typing the name of an app. That usually autocompletes within 2 - 3 lettters so you can then hit enter. It's very quick and doesn't require the mouse at all.

In my case, my most used apps are mapped to hotkeys in displayfusion that are then mapped to my streamdeck's buttons (with the app icon mapped to the streamdeck button). With any or all of these options there is no reason for me to use any desktop icons.

There is little reason for me to use a taskbar either other than the system tray. I keep the taskbar at the top of a side portrait mode monitor but it is hidden away with taskbar hider unless I need the system tray for some reason.

I use rainmeter (widgets app) for clock, calendar, and monitoring widgets etc so no need for the tray clock either.

 

[MrTX]

I'll have to check it out. I've mostly been using the OLED to play jedi-fallen order in exlusive fullscreen mode for HDR lately.

I set mpc-hc to automatically open in full screen on that screen # in the array no matter where it is launched from so I only watch them full screen. I will say that a lot of things on displays in general look tighter when smaller because it is like supersampling a greater rez down (like watching 4k rez content on a 1080p screen or window). I don't know if that applies to what you feel you are seeing but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

edit:
-- also make sure dynamic tone mapping is turned off on the tv and in madvr
-- ensure that HDR is still switching into full HDR metadata mode. Try shutting the video player off, then toggling the windows HDR slider back and forth (or use the tray app that can do it), then re-launch the video full screen. You can set it to launch full screen (and on which monitor # of the windows array) in player settings, at least for mpc-hc.

Mine was being buggy with HDR switching at a few points in my ownership, even from lowered HDR color brightness with HDR always on in windows to full HDR metadata failing to kick in on a fullscreen game or movie. Seems clunky at times. I haven't noticed it lately though and I have a new firmware so fingers crossed.

So apparently, the non-fullscreen video colors, brightness, and contrast are not true HDR (sometimes I get a washed out version, sometimes I get a super vivid version lol). I tested this by playing the movie directly on the TV USB port and comparing it to PC mpcHC+madVR in fullscreen and got somewhat similar colors, brightness, contrast, etc.

What is weird is when displaying the stats (CTRL+J), it shows "matrix BT.709", "primaries BT.709", and "limited range" (see middle of pic 2). Shouldn't these be BT.2020 and full range? The display is definitely showing as "HDR, 10 bit, RGB, full" on top though, so I'm kinda confused and not sure if madVR is passing the correct HDR metadata. If you don't mind, can you share a screenshot of your stats while playing an HDR movie in fullscreen?

LEFT: TV USB port. RIGHT: PC mpcHC+ madVR