LG 48CX

Mizzer

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
133
So the 2021 48" C1 model is on the USA LG website now (no 42" listed btw):

https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv

I'm seeing absolutely no differences vs the 2020 (CX) model besides a9 "Gen 4" processor which I'm assuming is nothing but marketing garbage that probably doesn't even benefit in game mode anyway as most of that junk is turned off. Sound about right or did I miss anything?
It mentions "Stadia" in the gaming section. Is it built-in?
 
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MrTX

n00b
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
46
elvn
Yes, I'm using RTX 3080 FE.

One of the filters in the playback chain is not reporting the metadata correctly. That's what it means when you see "best guess" in madVR. It could be a decoder, or intermediate video processing filter. MPC-HC is obsolete - use MPC-BE.
Thanks. That was it. After hours of testing with MPC-HC+madVR, MPC-BE+madVR, Kodi (HDR version), I found the issue for me. The reason I'm getting "best guesses" and "BT.709" was because of an external filter I added to MPC-HC aka "ffdshow raw video filter". I needed to add this to MPC-HC for my SVP Pro to work. When playing the HDR movie using MPC-BE+madVR (which didn't have this external filter added) or Kodi, I'm getting correct passthrough HDR stats (I'm assuming...see pic below). Guess now I gotta keep a separate player for HDR movies or research into Smart Share like sharknice said.

4K HDR pasthrough (MPC-HC/BE + madVR and no external filter)
2021-01-25 14_59_19-mpc BC madvr (avengers).png  -  FastStone Image Viewer 7.5.png
 

MistaSparkul

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
1,677
So the 2021 48" C1 model is on the USA LG website now (no 42" listed btw):

https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv

I'm seeing absolutely no differences vs the 2020 (CX) model besides a9 "Gen 4" processor which I'm assuming is nothing but marketing garbage that probably doesn't even benefit in game mode anyway as most of that junk is turned off. Sound about right or did I miss anything?

I would also think that the C1 is using the OLED panels that are being made in that recently opened plant in China so now there's the possibility that the panels themselves might up being lower quality as well over the CX. All in all, absolutely zero reason to choose a C1 over a CX unless they are the same price.
 

Monstieur

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 10, 2011
Messages
398
Thanks for the info. Yes some subtle difference according to that 2017 post but not always noticeable without looking for it, no horrible clipping like I would expect from a 4000nit curve for example. I'm not experiencing any of the washed out issues some people have.
The 4000-nit curve results in reduced clipping, not more clipping, by reducing peak brightness and rolling off above 480 nits. Washed out colours are due to a broken decoder chain not reporting BT.2020 PQ - that has nothing to do with HDR.
 
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Monstieur

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 10, 2011
Messages
398
I needed to add this to MPC-HC for my SVP Pro to work. When playing the HDR movie using MPC-BE+madVR (which didn't have this external filter added) or Kodi, I'm getting correct passthrough HDR stats (I'm assuming...see pic below). Guess now I gotta keep a separate player for HDR movies or research into Smart Share like sharknice said.
Use the new AviSynth beta filter in SVP Pro in the installer, and uninstall ffdshow. It works with HDR in MPC-BE.

You can also use mpv from the installer. Here is my mpv.conf. Exclusive mode audio must be disabled for Dolby Atmos for headphones to work in Windows.
Code:
#
# THIS FILE WILL BE OVERWRITTEN WITH THE PACKAGE UPDATE
# Use %APPDATA%/mpv/mpv.conf
# OR SVP's menu -> Information -> Add. information -> mpv config. file
#     to define your own customized configuration
#
# Sample mpv configuration
#

# this is required for SVP to "catch" the mpv
input-ipc-server=mpvpipe

# hardware video decoder
hwdec=d3d11va
hwdec-codecs=all

vo=gpu
gpu-api=d3d11
gpu-context=d3d11

# high quality video output, require rather fast video card
profile=gpu-hq

# use ANGLE if you have problems with default d3d11 renderer
# gpu-context=angle
# OR the newest VULKAN API
# gpu-api=vulkan

# miscellaneous options

# fixes audio desync
hr-seek-framedrop=no

# this can't be used with SVP cause it also saves vf's states
save-position-on-quit=no

# "ReClock" replacement
# video-sync=display-resample
# video-sync-max-video-change=5

#log-file=mpv.log

ao=wasapi
# audio-exclusive
audio-spdif=ac3,dts,dts-hd,eac3,truehd
audio-channels=auto

# icc-profile-auto
 
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elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,121
elvn
Yes, I'm using RTX 3080 FE.


Thanks. That was it. After hours of testing with MPC-HC+madVR, MPC-BE+madVR, Kodi (HDR version), I found the issue for me. The reason I'm getting "best guesses" and "BT.709" was because of an external filter I added to MPC-HC aka "ffdshow raw video filter". I needed to add this to MPC-HC for my SVP Pro to work. When playing the HDR movie using MPC-BE+madVR (which didn't have this external filter added) or Kodi, I'm getting correct passthrough HDR stats (I'm assuming...see pic below). Guess now I gotta keep a separate player for HDR movies or research into Smart Share like sharknice said.

4K HDR pasthrough (MPC-HC/BE + madVR and no external filter)
View attachment 322644

I figured you had to have set up something different when you were getting such different results. That's why I tried to go into detail about what few things I'd altered.

If you followed my posts wandering through the woods of different players on pc and ps4 today you'll see that I eventually found out in the end that LG CX's webos would pick up a plex sever if you enable the plex dlna server. That will send the hdr data to webos player built into the tv and the result and playback info ... reports HDR.

Emby also showed up but I had no luck getting emby to enable or pass HDR and emby via webos was telling me a lot of files were unplayable etc. on that server for some reason while they play fine on emby app on my shield on a different SDR tv.

You have to run audio from the tv in order to use the webOS player though, which in my current iteration steals the receiver completely cutting of the PC sound. The other problem with going through the tv is that it doesn't work with DTS sound. I was under the impression that I could force plex on the server end to I'm going to have to figure out a better sound setup eventually..


I think plex dlna server on LG webos is probably my best bet for now, unless I get a 2019 nvidia shield eventually. I have zero interest in plugging directly into the usb on the tv as it doesn't suit my overall network usage scenario.
 

MrTX

n00b
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
46
I tried LG Smart Share today. It played a 4K HDR movie connected from a USB HDD to my PC. There were a few network stutters, even though my PC is connected via LAN and my CX is connected via wireless. I thought it would have enough bandwidth, but I guess not.

Monstieur

I don't really need SVP Pro to work for 4K HDR movies, so I'm gonna keep my current setup (mpc-HC+madVR+SVP Pro for SDR videos). After trying out Kodi, I actually like it and will keep it because of it's 1 click-and-play, no need to install additional filters, config crazy settings, or manual toggle HDR on/off. It just works. It even turns off my secondary monitor while playing the movie on the CX. GPU usage is also low (7-12%), which is far less than when my SVP Pro activates for SDR movies (~22%). And in my eyes, picture quality seems identical to watching it via Smart Share or directly through TV USB port.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,121
The 4000-nit curve results in reduced clipping, not more clipping, by reducing peak brightness and rolling off above 480 nits. Washed out colours are due to a broken decoder chain not reporting BT.2020 PQ - that has nothing to do with HDR.

I heard so many people talking about washed out colors and mine never had that one I had mpc+madvr set up properly. I assumed hdr wasn't kicking in at all for them - which I guess it kind of isn't with the broken decoder chain you mentioned. After that when you said 4000 nit curve as a basis I guess I assumed it was stretching it thin somehow across the much taller 4000 range.

I guess it's bad to use the two terms interchangeably but people sometimes say it that way to generically describe the fact that the top range is being lost somehow, even if it's not the correct term:
"- when viewing HDR content the highlights get quite clipped, or rather they plateau and get squished at the top."

Clipping - the detail it out of bounds so no data shown , snipped off to white usually
When a monitor has a low contrast ratio or doesn’t operate with HDR, it is common to see color tones being “clipped” at both the light and dark ends of the spectrum. When detail in an image is clipped, it means that detail in that part of an image was not recorded and therefore cannot be seen.

Rolling off..... the last portion is compressed/squashed rather than snipped...

https://www.technicolor.com/themes/...oads/2017/04/HDR-Explained-ICG-April-2017.pdf
PQ spaces the 1024 code values, in a 10-bit signal, up to 10,000 nits. As a frame of reference, today’s consumer SDR TVs display peak luminance of 100–350 nits, while OLED HDR TVs display peak luminance of 540 nits and higher; LCD HDR TVs support peak luminance of more than 1,000 nits. Typically, PQ is used for images that want to maintain as much of the original light characteristic that can be handled by a given display.

So if you have an image that was graded to 1,000 nits presented on a consumer display that supports 600 nits, then working with PQ may maintain the image accurately to 540 nits and then roll off (or compress) the additional highlight detail into the remaining 60 nits. While PQ was designed as a perceptual distribution of light, it was not optimized for compressed home delivery. This means it can potentially limit the image quality by the time it reaches the home because most current encoding technologies – which compress images – were designed before PQ existed.

either way(clipping or rolling off) it's exhibiting lost details in the brights at the extent of the range which is what I was getting at as the trade off for using mpc-hc+madVR method.

According to that technicolor article the difference can be smaller though.. The 600nit peak display example rolling off / compressing after 540 nits - compressing the highlight detail into the last 60 nits. If that example was based on a peak of 729 rather than 600 it would be after 656nit not 540nit and not 480nit. If that were the case ranging well to 656nit and then compressing/squashing bright color detail range (rather than clipping to white) I don't think it would look as bad to most people (especially those like me for who this is their first HDR display). Would that be the case with HDR1000 mastered uhd HDR material rather than those mastered at HDR4000? Is 4000 where you are getting the 480nit rolloff starting point from? Why is the basis 4000, does the curve default to that? (I know there are a few that uhd HDR titles that are even mastered at HDR10,000 like blade runner too). Of course rolling off after even 656nit would not be optimal but HDR especially within the sweet spot would all look great.


What do you think of how I ended up running DLNA plex server to webos player? Nothing else seems viable to me. I'm definitely interested in getting the relative "best" performance out of HDR content without going too crazy with configuring things.

Thanks for any answers I enjoy learning about how it works.
 
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elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,121
I tried LG Smart Share today. It played a 4K HDR movie connected from a USB HDD to my PC. There were a few network stutters, even though my PC is connected via LAN and my CX is connected via wireless. I thought it would have enough bandwidth, but I guess not.

Monstieur

I don't really need SVP Pro to work for 4K HDR movies, so I'm gonna keep my current setup (mpc-HC+madVR+SVP Pro for SDR videos). After trying out Kodi, I actually like it and will keep it because of it's 1 click-and-play, no need to install additional filters, config crazy settings, or manual toggle HDR on/off. It just works. It even turns off my secondary monitor while playing the movie on the CX. GPU usage is also low (7-12%), which is far less than when my SVP Pro activates for SDR movies (~22%). And in my eyes, picture quality seems identical to watching it via Smart Share or directly through TV USB port.

Both my tv and my pc are wired on a gigabit network but I'll need some more time to test the plex dlna server in the CX webos player to see if it drops out during playback. It did stutter at least once and it dropped playback off once already but I'm not writing it off yet. The other problem is that dts audio HDR titles have no sound of course. I thought I'd be able to force the plex server on the pc to automatically transcode all audio to pcm but now I'm not sure if that is possible.

If the stuttering and/or drop-outs end up being chronic I'll probably end up buying a 2019 nvidia shield to keep on the tv instead if HDR works properly on those. I'm interested to hear what Monstieur says about both the Plex DLNA server serving HDR titles in webOS player and the nvidia shield 2019 HDR methods.

I do agree though the madvr method looks really good once it's working "properly"... it could just come down to that last segment of detail-in-brightest-colors being squashed a little, when things that bright are visible in a scene.
 
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MrTX

n00b
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
46
If I'm not mistaken, the CX ethernet port is inferior to its wifi, according to the spec. Or did you use a USB to 1Gbps ethernet adapter?
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,121
oof that's still true on the cx? damn that's cheezy. No I didn't use one of those but I do have one in my laptop bag.
 

sharknice

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
2,415
I tried LG Smart Share today. It played a 4K HDR movie connected from a USB HDD to my PC. There were a few network stutters, even though my PC is connected via LAN and my CX is connected via wireless. I thought it would have enough bandwidth, but I guess not.

Monstieur

I don't really need SVP Pro to work for 4K HDR movies, so I'm gonna keep my current setup (mpc-HC+madVR+SVP Pro for SDR videos). After trying out Kodi, I actually like it and will keep it because of it's 1 click-and-play, no need to install additional filters, config crazy settings, or manual toggle HDR on/off. It just works. It even turns off my secondary monitor while playing the movie on the CX. GPU usage is also low (7-12%), which is far less than when my SVP Pro activates for SDR movies (~22%). And in my eyes, picture quality seems identical to watching it via Smart Share or directly through TV USB port.

I've found wired both works best. Also if you're doing something CPU heavy on the computer it can cause some stutters. It's also possible the HDD is your issue, or also if you're using the HDD for other things (like downloading another movie) at the same time you're watching it can cause issues.

Following the above recommendations I almost never get any stuttering and I'm using a pretty old PC and old HDDs. And almost everything I watch is the highest quality 4k HDR you can find. Even Gemini Man at 60 fps which I highly recommend watching.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,121
I appreciate the suggestions but I stream to my 2 shields regularly off the same drives and network with no stutters or drop outs. They also load the thumbnails faster (but use a different system to retain them unlike how the dlna server in webos seems to work to to be fair). I've only tried a few videos so far so it's too early to weigh in on the reliability yet though.

If it ends up not being reliable I'll spring for a 2019 shield for this tv too.., gigabit, processor and specs are very good. (they can also pass dts audio if you skip passing their audio through the LG tv)
shield-tv-pro-interface-dl.jpg


I have a 2015 on both my living room and bedroom tvs with no regrets.
 
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Monstieur

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 10, 2011
Messages
398
If that example was based on a peak of 729 rather than 600 it would be after 656nit not 540nit and not 480nit. If that were the case ranging well to 656nit and then compressing/squashing bright color detail range (rather than clipping to white) I don't think it would look as bad to most people (especially those like me for who this is their first HDR display). Would that be the case with HDR1000 mastered uhd HDR material rather than those mastered at HDR4000? Is 4000 where you are getting the 480nit rolloff starting point from? Why is the basis 4000, does the curve default to that? (I know there are a few that uhd HDR titles that are even mastered at HDR10,000 like blade runner too). Of course rolling off after even 656nit would not be optimal but HDR especially within the sweet spot would all look great.
The curves are arbitrarily decided by LG and don't follow a standard roll-off. There does exist the BT.2390 standard for tone mapping which madVR supports (when using HGIG mode).

LG's 1000-nit curve is accurate up to 560 nits, and squeezes 560 - 1000 nits into 560 - 800 nits.
LG's 4000-nit curve is accurate up to 480 nits, and squeezes 480 - 4000 nits into 480 - 800 nits.
LG's 10000-nit curve is accurate up to 400 nits, and squeezes 400 - 10000 nits into 400 - 800 nits.

I would use only the 1000-nit curve or HGIG for all movies, even if the content is mastered at 4000+ nits. All moves are previewed on a reference monitor and are designed to look good at even 1000 nits. It's fine to clip 1000+ nit highlights. HGIG would clip 800+ nit highlights.

LG defaults to the 4000-nit curve when there is no HDR metadata, which a PC never sends.
 
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Koleo

n00b
Joined
Jan 25, 2021
Messages
6
Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

I have the following set-up:

RTX 3070 (latest drivers)
OLED48CXPUG (these are connected by a certified 48Gb cable) (HDMI input set to "PC")
Windows 10 (latest patch)

I get occasional drop outs where the signal seems lost for a second and then returns. When it comes back "HDR" shows at the top and my settings remain the same. It never happens in-games, mostly when I am browsing. (Firefox)

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

P.S. The picture quality during gaming is stunning!

I am investigating the issue. It seems to more or less consistent.
I would be getting the crash more consistently, for example

- At 99% loading for minecraft, but only when a youtube video is playing in the background. Did it 8 times consistently.
- Sometimes when opening new tabs in firefox, but only certain websites.
- For me, it seems to happen more frequently when the TV or PC is "cold", ie. only been on for less than half an hour. It could just be a coincindence tho.
- All three of us have the rtx 3070 and the same problem, there seems to be correlation here, we are probably all using the lastest nvidia drivers.

What is happening is : The TV loses video signal, because the display driver crash and restart.
I am sure about this, because it'd crash any game launched, freeze video playback, black out powershell prompts. it is the same phenomenon as the flicker you see when you install/update the graphics drivers.

It was getting worse and worse for me, I did a completely clean display driver installation, which didn't fix the problem but seems to have made it less apparent.
We need more data. My most probable idea about this is that the rtx 3070 has shit HMDI 2.1 integration, be it hardware (HDMI 2.1 controller) or software (drivers)
I only have the CX for a few weeks so I don't know if this a a new issue or not.
 

Koleo

n00b
Joined
Jan 25, 2021
Messages
6
I am investigating the issue. It seems to more or less consistent.
I would be getting the crash more consistently, for example
Checking the google quickly, it seems this issue also happens to people using HDMI 2.1's full power (rtx 3000, 4K120hz12bit) on samsung TV's.
One of them said windows version 20H2 is the cause of this, he has rolled back to an older version and seemingly had no issue.
Nothing sure. Best bet is to report the bug to MS and / or Nvidia, and wait to further updates.

If this is a widespread problem with HMDI 2.1 & some RTX cards, the upcoming collection of HMDI 2.1 monitors coming out will probably make this issue more apparent.

This is the nvidia thread about this
 

nighty2k20

n00b
Joined
Dec 2, 2020
Messages
21
If I'm not mistaken, the CX ethernet port is inferior to its wifi, according to the spec. Or did you use a USB to 1Gbps ethernet adapter?
You made me realize that the port is indeed Fast Ethernet (100MBit), totally surprised by that.

* 100Mbit is not enough to use streaming services in an optimal way, because when starting a stream and when jumping forward/backward you need peak bandwidth to fill the buffer again
* My internet access is currently 250/100 MBit (I could upgrade to 1000/250 tomorrow, if wanted)
* WLAN AC at the TVs position would net around 140-180 MBit data rate, so even that would not fully utilize my internet bandwidth, even today

Currently I would need 250MBit at my TV to fully utilize my internet connection
 
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SmootyPoody

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 22, 2018
Messages
74
I keep getting blackouts on my CX.. I sit in Windows doing idle stuff like browsing or editing in lightroom (never when I game) it will just randomly cut to black and say "no signal" then jump back to the signal. Whats the deal here? Is it the screen, cable or graphics card?

The cable is a Nedis HDMI 2.1 2m cable https://nedis.com/en-us/product/con...dmi-connector-hdmi-connector-200-m-anthracite
And the graphics card is a ASUS RTX 3070 TUF OC

Anyone else have issues with the TV just freezing up for several seconds and then re acquiring a signal? I had read some had issues with this and game response being enabled, I turned that off and I still get it, but it's sporadic, sometimes it's every few minutes and other times it doesn't happen for hours. Source is a 3070. I did replace the cable with an ultra certified (Zeskit off of Amazon) as I thought that was the culprit, but no change. I'm running 4k/120hz RGB 10 bit.

I'm really frustrated with this TV, between the crappy ASBL/ABL, the fear of burn in and now this I'm tempted to exchange it. But what else is out there? I already had the Samsung Q80T and that is unable to connect at 4k/120hz with HDR and Samsung seems like they don't want to address the issue. I guess HDMI 2.1 is just too new.

YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

Hello, I'm not native so I hope you can forgive some of my yoinky phrasings.

I now use the 48cx as my main and only monitor, about 5 hours on works days and up to 14hours on weekend days. I believe it now when some of you said that there is nothing better even as a monitor.
I have however some issues
Text rendering is absolute trash at 100% scaling, I was prepared for that. Disabling cleartype is basically trading a flavor of bad for another. Nothing to do about that.
Colors which are rich in green look very wierd, as if there is a line on the left that is black. Looks like a byproduct of the wierd pixel structure but I could be wrong (try but putting a light green square on a gray background)

Finally the issue pointed by SD777, which is the most annoying one, happens to me on a regular basis, it did 5-6 times this morning. Sometimes it does it 5 times an hour, sometimes never.

More data:

I also have a 3070 (msi ventus) and the display is set to 4K/120hz/10bit, TV is set to PC mode, screen shift disabled.
However it seems to always happens when web browsing, on doing general desktop things.
It never happens when playing, be it full screen or windowed, or even when watching videos.
I use a seemingly good cable which is 2 meter long

I believe it is a problem from the graphics card, but it could also be the TV is twitching channels by itself for some reason. I originally thougt it was the anti-burn in pixel refresh procedure, but this should only activate when the TV is turned on and only every 4hr as I understand.

Turn out I already had this set
View attachment 322453
Changing override setting does nothing.

Maybe it is linked to the faulty hdmi 2.1 chips in most early 2.1 hardware. RTX Could be some of those.
Last thing I did was disable HDMI audio from the nvidia control panel.
No signal losing since then, by it could just be luck.
Will keep updating on this.

Edit 2 mins after posting :
It did it again, lost signal 5 times in a row over the course of 30seconcs. It seems to get in and out of the PC/game mode, as I could see the color temperature and brightness change. It did it immediately after launching paint.net, so it is certainely linked to activity on the PC, or to a sudden change in the image.

I have the following set-up:

RTX 3070 (latest drivers)
OLED48CXPUG (these are connected by a certified 48Gb cable) (HDMI input set to "PC")
Windows 10 (latest patch)

I get occasional drop outs where the signal seems lost for a second and then returns. When it comes back "HDR" shows at the top and my settings remain the same. It never happens in-games, mostly when I am browsing. (Firefox)

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

P.S. The picture quality during gaming is stunning!

I am investigating the issue. It seems to more or less consistent.
I would be getting the crash more consistently, for example

- At 99% loading for minecraft, but only when a youtube video is playing in the background. Did it 8 times consistently.
- Sometimes when opening new tabs in firefox, but only certain websites.
- For me, it seems to happen more frequently when the TV or PC is "cold", ie. only been on for less than half an hour. It could just be a coincindence tho.
- All three of us have the rtx 3070 and the same problem, there seems to be correlation here, we are probably all using the lastest nvidia drivers.

What is happening is : The TV loses video signal, because the display driver crash and restart.
I am sure about this, because it'd crash any game launched, freeze video playback, black out powershell prompts. it is the same phenomenon as the flicker you see when you install/update the graphics drivers.

It was getting worse and worse for me, I did a completely clean display driver installation, which didn't fix the problem but seems to have made it less apparent.
We need more data. My most probable idea about this is that the rtx 3070 has shit HMDI 2.1 integration, be it hardware (HDMI 2.1 controller) or software (drivers)
I only have the CX for a few weeks so I don't know if this a a new issue or not.
We are all talking about the same issue. Do we all have RTX 3070s? I have a ASUS 3070 TUF OC. Its in silent mode (Performance vs silent) and no OC. Dead stock.

I have tried using 8bit since a week ago. And while I havent lost signal as much, I still do. I think its a coincidence it happens less now. Has nothing to do with 8bit vs 10bit (IE the cable not supporting enough data). But I can of cause not be certain.

For me it never happens when I game. I am running in borderless windowed mode at 3840x1600 when I game. Red Dead Redemption 2 fx.. No signal is lost. Its only when I am "in windows". Happens mostly when I am in Lightroom editing or just browsing the internet. (maybe because that is what I do the most?).
 

SD777

n00b
Joined
Jan 23, 2021
Messages
19
Check that please: solved my blackouts/no signal: YFI: In my case I also thought it's the cable, however it turned out that intermittent blackouts where caused by a setting in Nvidia Control panel in the scaling section. Make sure scaling is set to "display" not "gpu"

Yeah I definitely checked that when I saw the post, but mine was already enabled to display. I just received an ultra certified Belkin cable that many were saying fixed their issues, I'll be giving that a try. The weird thing about the blackouts is they are random, sometimes I can get several in a row a few minutes apart, other times I can go hours without getting one.
 

SD777

n00b
Joined
Jan 23, 2021
Messages
19
Hello, I'm not native so I hope you can forgive some of my yoinky phrasings.

I now use the 48cx as my main and only monitor, about 5 hours on works days and up to 14hours on weekend days. I believe it now when some of you said that there is nothing better even as a monitor.
I have however some issues
Text rendering is absolute trash at 100% scaling, I was prepared for that. Disabling cleartype is basically trading a flavor of bad for another. Nothing to do about that.
Colors which are rich in green look very wierd, as if there is a line on the left that is black. Looks like a byproduct of the wierd pixel structure but I could be wrong (try but putting a light green square on a gray background)

Finally the issue pointed by SD777, which is the most annoying one, happens to me on a regular basis, it did 5-6 times this morning. Sometimes it does it 5 times an hour, sometimes never.

More data:

I also have a 3070 (msi ventus) and the display is set to 4K/120hz/10bit, TV is set to PC mode, screen shift disabled.
However it seems to always happens when web browsing, on doing general desktop things.
It never happens when playing, be it full screen or windowed, or even when watching videos.
I use a seemingly good cable which is 2 meter long

I believe it is a problem from the graphics card, but it could also be the TV is twitching channels by itself for some reason. I originally thougt it was the anti-burn in pixel refresh procedure, but this should only activate when the TV is turned on and only every 4hr as I understand.

Turn out I already had this set
View attachment 322453
Changing override setting does nothing.

Maybe it is linked to the faulty hdmi 2.1 chips in most early 2.1 hardware. RTX Could be some of those.
Last thing I did was disable HDMI audio from the nvidia control panel.
No signal losing since then, by it could just be luck.
Will keep updating on this.

Edit 2 mins after posting :
It did it again, lost signal 5 times in a row over the course of 30seconcs. It seems to get in and out of the PC/game mode, as I could see the color temperature and brightness change. It did it immediately after launching paint.net, so it is certainely linked to activity on the PC, or to a sudden change in the image.

I've also noticed that text looks fairly crappy on my Cx as well, even after playing with clear type or trying to just turn it off. My issue is letters, especially lighter colored letters, have a lot of ghosting and halo around them.

Also how do you get those options in scaling, the ones for integer scaling, etc. My Nvidia control panel only has a single drop down box for scaling or display, I don't have the option to select a scaling mode and don't have the option to override scaling either. I'm on a 3070 and do have the latest drivers.
 

SD777

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SD777

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I have the following set-up:

RTX 3070 (latest drivers)
OLED48CXPUG (these are connected by a certified 48Gb cable) (HDMI input set to "PC")
Windows 10 (latest patch)

I get occasional drop outs where the signal seems lost for a second and then returns. When it comes back "HDR" shows at the top and my settings remain the same. It never happens in-games, mostly when I am browsing. (Firefox)

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

P.S. The picture quality during gaming is stunning!

Yeah I'm getting this also. I also don't have it happen in games. I suspect it's the cable, I have the Zeskit ultra certified cable but have a Belkin cable I am going to test.
 

SD777

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I am investigating the issue. It seems to more or less consistent.
I would be getting the crash more consistently, for example

- At 99% loading for minecraft, but only when a youtube video is playing in the background. Did it 8 times consistently.
- Sometimes when opening new tabs in firefox, but only certain websites.
- For me, it seems to happen more frequently when the TV or PC is "cold", ie. only been on for less than half an hour. It could just be a coincindence tho.
- All three of us have the rtx 3070 and the same problem, there seems to be correlation here, we are probably all using the lastest nvidia drivers.

What is happening is : The TV loses video signal, because the display driver crash and restart.
I am sure about this, because it'd crash any game launched, freeze video playback, black out powershell prompts. it is the same phenomenon as the flicker you see when you install/update the graphics drivers.

It was getting worse and worse for me, I did a completely clean display driver installation, which didn't fix the problem but seems to have made it less apparent.
We need more data. My most probable idea about this is that the rtx 3070 has shit HMDI 2.1 integration, be it hardware (HDMI 2.1 controller) or software (drivers)
I only have the CX for a few weeks so I don't know if this a a new issue or not.

Interesting, I don't get this at all inside of video games, not even once. I did reinstall my drivers and that seemed to greatly help, now the blackouts are just once in a while, but as mentioned sometimes they are several in a row just minutes apart and other times I go hours without any blackouts.

About the driver crash, have you looked at your event viewer? I'm not seeing any video driver crashes logged there, but I haven't been looking very closely. Next time I get blackouts I'll keep an eye out on my event viewer.
 

SD777

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Does the Game video mode do anything special for playing games? I rather prefer the Cinema Home mode but wasn't sure if I was sacrificing anything by not using the Game video mode. I do have Ultra HDMI and Game response enabled. Also where do you all set your in game HDR brightness to? I've seen some mention 5% window, but on Rtings they only have 2/10/25/50/100% windows.
 

Koleo

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Interesting, I don't get this at all inside of video games, not even once. I did reinstall my drivers and that seemed to greatly help, now the blackouts are just once in a while, but as mentioned sometimes they are several in a row just minutes apart and other times I go hours without any blackouts.

About the driver crash, have you looked at your event viewer? I'm not seeing any video driver crashes logged there, but I haven't been looking very closely. Next time I get blackouts I'll keep an eye out on my event viewer.
They do appear as display driver crash in the event viewer for me
We all have the exact same issue
1611666622755.png


1611666629534.png

As you can see, driver crash, then a restart 7 seconds later.
1611666647465.png


Additionnal note : Just like gaming and video playback, it never crashed when in a microsoft teams meeting.
 

Mizzer

Limp Gawd
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Jan 21, 2021
Messages
133
They do appear as display driver crash in the event viewer for me
We all have the exact same issue
View attachment 322844

View attachment 322845
As you can see, driver crash, then a restart 7 seconds later.
View attachment 322846

Additionnal note : Just like gaming and video playback, it never crashed when in a microsoft teams meeting.

I haven't looked at my event log. I'll check tonight.

I am using a stock ASUS TUF 3070 OC.

I've also tried two different, 48Gbps cords. One is certified. There is no difference in the frequency of occurrence between the cords. I used the non-certified cord for the XBOX Series X on my 65" OLEDE9 without issue.
 

kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
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Messages
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Does the Game video mode do anything special for playing games? I rather prefer the Cinema Home mode but wasn't sure if I was sacrificing anything by not using the Game video mode. I do have Ultra HDMI and Game response enabled. Also where do you all set your in game HDR brightness to? I've seen some mention 5% window, but on Rtings they only have 2/10/25/50/100% windows.
Game mode has lower input lag than any other mode. You can mostly match cinema home simply by copying the settings from that preset to game mode. I would recommend copying the ones from the expert modes though.

For HDR, just leave brightness on the TV at 100 and in games it's a case by case thing depending on how the game handles HDR configuration. HDTVTest recommends that instead of setting for the "where some logo is almost invisible" in games, you set for one step up from there where it is invisible so you are not limiting the brightness/black level ranges.
 

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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Messages
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I've also noticed that text looks fairly crappy on my Cx as well, even after playing with clear type or trying to just turn it off. My issue is letters, especially lighter colored letters, have a lot of ghosting and halo around them.

Also how do you get those options in scaling, the ones for integer scaling, etc. My Nvidia control panel only has a single drop down box for scaling or display, I don't have the option to select a scaling mode and don't have the option to override scaling either. I'm on a 3070 and do have the latest drivers.
Put it in Game mode.
 
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I don’t understand why every one is playing 4k movies in windows. I always use the Plex app built into the TV. It does HDR and Dobly Vision. Granted I have a 42tb local server and 700tb in the cloud. I have no issues using the app local or streaming from the cloud. The new Plex server even does tone mapping for 4k hdr to 1080p sdr. It works well use it when streaming to older TVs.
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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May 24, 2013
Messages
132
So the 2021 48" C1 model is on the USA LG website now (no 42" listed btw):

https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv

I'm seeing absolutely no differences vs the 2020 (CX) model besides a9 "Gen 4" processor which I'm assuming is nothing but marketing garbage that probably doesn't even benefit in game mode anyway as most of that junk is turned off. Sound about right or did I miss anything?

The main functional difference is the panel can get brighter. We're not sure how much exactly until someone measures it. LG hasn't said much I think, except it is "20% more efficient", which means the brightness can get higher since voltage is the main limiter on these panels for brightness. I read 1000 nits somewhere - note the CX is claimed 850 nits, but a 10% patch only gets ~600-650 nits. So it means the C1 will probably get 750-800 nits at a 10% patch which is a nice bump.

Otherwise it doesn't seem like there is much improvement at all. Certainly not worth upgrading from a CX for! There might be some killer feature people discover when the units start getting reviewed. But in reality the panels haven't changed much since the 7 series.

Disappointingly, it still has the awful stand that makes it stick out too much.
 
Last edited:

Armenius

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The main functional difference is the panel can get brighter. We're not sure how much exactly until someone measures it. LG hasn't said much I think, except it is "20% more efficient", which means the brightness can get higher since voltage is the main limiter on these panels for brightness. I read 1000 nits somewhere - note the CX is claimed 850 nits, but a 10% patch only gets ~600-650 nits. So it means the C1 will probably get 750-800 nits at a 10% patch which is a nice bump.

Otherwise it doesn't seem like there is much improvement at all. Certainly not worth upgrading from a CX for! There might be some killer feature people discover when the units start getting reviewed. But in reality the panels haven't changed much since the 7 series.

Disappointingly, it still has the awful stand that makes it stick out too much.
They added more AI processing functions to the image processor. There is a new "Game Optimizer" that is supposed to be able to detect the type of game you're playing and automatically adjust the image accordingly. Input lag with HDR at 4K is also supposed to be improved over the X-series. The latter sounds interesting, but the former sounds useless to me since I don't want my color settings being messed with once calibrated.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
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Whats the difference with just hitting the Windows+S and start typing and only hitting Windows key and start typing?

Either works. It just brings up a different panel with recents and quick searches. I do it more out of habit I guess since I use win+ other keys all of the time. I'm always hitting Win+ <whatever key>.

There are more but these below are the windows key ones I mainly have in my routine b/c i find they are useful. They also are all within reach of my left hand on the keyboard while my hand is still on the mouse.

-------------------------------------------

Win+A = action center
.............. I use this to check it if I miss the popup on the primary monitor since I usually keep my taskbar hidden on a different monitor)
Ctrl + Win + B = switch to the program that displayed a message in the notification area

Win+D = show/hide desktop toggle (minimize/restore everything all at once)
Win+E = open the default file explorer
..............mine is directory opus, I usually manage the file browser using streamdeck button tied to displayfusion hotkeys rather than using this though
Win + G = open the xbox game bar.
.............This xbox overlay has some neat readouts and things in it's popup overlay. Performance meter (cpu, gpu, ram, fps), resource by app meter, volume per app sliders, mic mute/unmute toggle, audio device selection, clock, capture functions and gallery, etc.
Win+L = lock the device (to login/pin page)
Win+R = run
Win+V = open the clipboard pin




Win+X = open the quick link menu (shows a simplified menu of all of the win10 menu categories and power/restart etc.)
............... once that menu is up you can then hit another plain letter key to open any of the headings as outlined from the link and quotes below.
................The search menu works just as easily now though for most of that, or even cortana if you are into using that.
.................It's also easy to map these to a streamdeck's buttons in a "subfolder" of streamdeck buttons and slap a picture/icon on the button to represent them.

................ https://www.isumsoft.com/windows-10/keyboard-shortcuts-for-winx-quick-link-menu.html

Windows + X + U + D = Disconnect

Windows + X + U + I = Sign Out

Windows + X + U + U = Shutdown

Windows + X + U + R = Restart

Windows + X + A = Starts PowerShell with administrative privileges
Windows + X + E = Starts Explorer (same as Windows + E)
Windows + X + F = Starts Apps & Features
Windows + X + G = Starts Computer Management (compmgmt.msc)
Windows + X + I = Starts PowerShell in user mode
Windowx + X + K = Starts Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc)
Windows + X + M = Starts Device Manager (devmgmt.msc)
Windows + X + N = Starts Windows Settings (formerly control.exe)
Windows + X + O = Starts Power & Sleep
Windows + X + R = Starts Run dialog (same as Windows + R)
Windows + X + S = Starts Search Dialog
Windows + X + T = Starts Task Manager
Windows + X + U = Starts Shut down or Sign out
Windows + X + V = Starts Event Viewer (eventvwr.msc)
Windows + X + W = Starts Network Status
Windows + X + Y = Starts About
 

Process

n00b
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Jun 1, 2016
Messages
9
Might be a dumb question, has anyone had any luck finding a 12-15ft HDMI 2.1 cable that works to spec?
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
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May 24, 2013
Messages
132

kasakka

2[H]4U
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Messages
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They added more AI processing functions to the image processor. There is a new "Game Optimizer" that is supposed to be able to detect the type of game you're playing and automatically adjust the image accordingly. Input lag with HDR at 4K is also supposed to be improved over the X-series. The latter sounds interesting, but the former sounds useless to me since I don't want my color settings being messed with once calibrated.
I thought the Game Optimizer was just this stupid menu that gathers together game related things that are already in other menus on the CX?

l=640%2C&quality=95&image_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fs.yimg.jpg
 

Armenius

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Process

n00b
Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Messages
9
Copper HDMI 2.1 cables are only rated up to 3m / ~9ft. So unfortunately for that length, you'll have to get an expensive fiber optic cable like this one from monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=38629. Costs $129!

Edit: They seem to have a certified 15ft copper cable but not sure I'd trust it... https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42682

Next question is, is there any decent adapter out there to convert Display Port to HDMI 2.1 and maintain 4k 120 and 10 bit color? My EVGA 3090 only has 1 HDMI 2.1, and I have both an LG CX 48, and a C9 65 in the same room.
 

hhkb

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
132
Next question is, is there any decent adapter out there to convert Display Port to HDMI 2.1 and maintain 4k 120 and 10 bit color? My EVGA 3090 only has 1 HDMI 2.1, and I have both an LG CX 48, and a C9 65 in the same room.

Nope - displayport 1.4 is only capable of 32Gbps - you need 40Gbps to do 4k120 RGB 10-bit. That's why people like the AIB cards with 2 HDMI ports.
 
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