LG 48CX

Advil said:
About the only way I know it's even working is because I can't make the taskbar autohide line go away entirely, but it's set to grey. Sometimes I can see the grey line at the bottom of the screen, and at max shift in that direction it disappears completely for a little while. The screen remains at full resolution, it just moves the image around so a few lines are off screen at any one time. It doesn't dither or anything destructive to the image like that.
Click to expand...

peppergomez said:
Where is the screen shift setting found? I don't see it in Picture Options or General.

I have the taskbar set to be hidden but when it is and there is a black/blank screen, I can still see the top line of it visible at the bottom of the screen. Is this cause for concern?
I have a rotating screensaver set after 10 min of inactivity so the menu isn't visible for longer than that at a time.
Click to expand...
MistaSparkul said:
You can use Translucent Taskbar to completely hide that pesky line.
Click to expand...
Advil said:
Thanks! I'll hunt that up.
Click to expand...
=================================================


The names are clickable links here from a previous post of mine:
Hiding the windows taskbar on the primary monitor
==========================================
There is another app I use called taskbar hider, along with the Translucent Taskbar app. I set a shortcut key in the taskbar hider app to lock my primary monitor's windows taskbar away entirely. I can always hit the shortcut key again to show it but I have little reason to now:
.. All of my tray icons are available on my other monitors. All of their apps are running active on their own monitor's taskbar.
.. If I need to access a media or game app on my primary monitor, I can just alt+Tab or ctrl+alt+Tab there and it will only show the apps that are running on that monitor to choose from.
.. If I need to launch a game or media app to my primary monitor, I have displayfusion shortcut keys (tied to streamdeck buttons) to launch and place them with a keypress or button press. However it would be easy to just hit the windows key while the mouse is on the primary monitor, and keep those primary monitor aimed app shortcuts up on top in the start menu popup. Displayfusion should remember where the app was located last time it was run.

Notification area and Search
=======================
So far the only things that the displayfusion taskbars don't have that I am aware of is the windows notification area and the search icon (or field if you've left it a text entry field). However the roll-out notification panel is easily accessible with the Win+A shortcut (A for "actions") and the search popup is available with Win+S, even with the taskbar locked away hidden. The A and the S are right next to each other on a regular keyboard too incidentally.
Click to expand...

displayfusion.com/
Displayfusion taskbars can be enabled on your secondary monitors.
=================
The displayfusion taskbars can:
..have app icons with live mini-window popups just like the regular windows taskbar.
..have a popup tray (and the clock/chronograph) with tray icons you can interact with just like the regular windows taskbar
..have a windows icon with start menu popup just like the regular windows taskbar.
..when you hit the windows key on your keyboard, the start menu pops up in the lower left corner on whatever monitor your mouse is on.
..you can force the application shortcuts you make on each taskbar to launch on the same monitor as the taskbar the shortcut is on (recommended)
..you can force the app to run as admin by it's shortcut within the displayfusion shortcut editing options instead of the windows shortcut menus.
..adjust the size of the taskbar
..move the windows button to left or right side, or disable it
..move the clock and tray to left or right side or set either of them to be hidden
..

Alt+TAB menu (or Ctrl+ALT+Tab which makes the popup persistent until you click on something)
=====================================================================
Displayfusion can change the behavior of your alt+Tab menu:
..you can change the width and height of the thumbnails
..you can choose whether the thumbs appear on all monitors or only on the current monitor, current windows.
.."current windows only" is very useful so I'm not seeing all of the app thumbnails of what is running on the other monitors.
368008_3dITr9B.png
Click to expand...

Since I've been using it awhile with multiple monitors I ended up unlocking and dragging the actual windows taskbar over to my right monitor and placing it at the top of the screen. Then I lock it away using ALT+SHIFT+Z as a hotkey to toggle show/hide with the taskbarhider app. So I've decided against keeping a taskbar on the OLED at all anymore since it is more of a media and gaming stage in my setup.

Alt+TAB or ALT+CTRL+TAB (persistent popup) via hotkey or streamdeckkey works well to swap or restore apps since displayfusion can optionally limit the popup's contents soley to what windows are open on that monitor at that time. Win+S works great to search or open apps too. Those popups all open on the active monitor window so won't open on the oled unless your mouse is on it ~ it is the last active window used. The only time I really use the taskbar anymore is to access the system tray, but I have a lot of side monitor space so I don't need to minimize as many windows either.

I also can click app icons on my streamdeck that I set up to pop an app to it's "home position" that I preconfigured.
The function works on multiple presses of the same key to:
....check if the app is open or not (if not, open it and place it at the pre-configured location)
... check to see if the app is minimized or not (if minimized, restore to the same pre-configured location.. if not minimized, minimize it)
Then I have a bunch of keys to move whatever generic window is active to the location descibed by the streamdesk key. (top 1/3 of portrait, bottom 2/3, OLED full screen, etc). That is besides having a few global saved window position profiles which are a 1-click placement of all app windows to where you saved them (ahead of time).

Windows notifications, app notifications, and app update notification windows/installs still show up on the primary monitor. As far as I know, opening the action notification area (Win+A) will always open as a sidebar on the primary monitor too. Other than that, in between running media or games on the OLED it is a pure black background for me which is essentially "off".
 
Last edited:
Hi guys. I have 3 CX48's. They will not connect to wifi as they did before (been a long time since I checked). My firmware on two of them is 3.11.25 and one is 3.11.30.

Does anyone have a link to the latest firmware? I recall putting the firmware on a usb stick in a certain folder or something and doing them manually...
 
eee
equinox654 said:
Keep in mind when you label the input as pc. You change the icon of the input for it to switch modes.
Click to expand...

yeah it's a little tricky to get to the edit point in the current menu system imo.

To change the name to PC input and the ICON to PC :

... Hold the input button down for a bit (below the navigation wheel)
...Choose the hdmi input on the left under TV/inputs if it's not already on the hdmi # your pc is on
...Click the gear cog/wheel on the upper right of the screen "Settings"
...click "Edit" on the settings menu that pops up below that gear cog icon
...click the name side of the HDMI # you want to edit (name change to "PC")
...click the hdmi input looking icon to the left of that name to bring up a "Choose Icon" popup menu that allows you to change the icon to PC (looks like a monitor with a line under it)

If you lose your magic remote "mouse pointer" at any point during the procedure, just spin the navigation wheel a little and it will appear again.

-------------------------------

Not related to changing the name of the inputs but in relation to changing the mode for different viewing material ...

I haven't really looked into it but I'd like to find a way to automate swapping between standard (movie setup for me) mode and game mode using the remote app on my phone or some other app someday instead of having to flip through the menu. On my Vizio low density FALD VA in my living room I can hit one button on the remote to pop up a quick menu that lets me swap between saved sets of settings I configured and named (day/bright, night1, night2, custom1, game, animation, etc).

On the LG CX I have to hit the cog on the magic remote, naviagate with the air mouse to the top left icon, then click to page between user modes while holding my arm up aiming the air mouse. Using all disc directional navigation from the home button involves even more steps.

They should enable a button on the remote that pops up the user settings and jumps to the next setting with every press of that button. And have it set up so that Holding that button will pop up a drop down selection. That's how my vizio does it and it is way more efficient. Unless I'm missing something of course. Like I said, maybe there is a way to do it in the wifi phone app faster, I'll have to look into it. You can HOLD the gear icon down as a shortcut to get to where you can adjust the settings of the input you are already on, but it doesn't let you swap between the named settings from there without air navigating to the top left icon and air clicking between settings again afaik.

Maybe there is a way to customize the remote more. I really haven't done the homework on it yet as I've just been enjoying the TV so far. I'd really like the "LIST channels" button to "List user modes" for quick selection instead since I'll never be using the integrated TV functions on this display. That and/or program the colored buttons to each be one named setting.
Click to expand...

EDIT: There might be a way do it by voice if you enable that, after you click the microphone icon. Not certain it will be able to directly change between user modes or not though, have to research it.
 
Last edited:
The voice control works, you just have to hold the mic button down. "Movie Mode" switched it to cinema, "Standard Mode" -> "standard" , saying "Game Mode" switched it to game.

 
I use "Expert Dark Room" for Desktop SDR and SDR gaming, and when an HDR source is detected it's in Filmmaker Mode (User) which I use for both HDR movies and HDR gaming.

I do not use the actual "game" screen mode.

Under picture, instant game response, enable it for the HDMI input you have your PC on.

Now you have low latency mode enabled in that picture mode... just like "game" mode but with most of the other preferred settings the setup guides recommend.

The HDMI input is set to PC on the Home Dashboard.
 
Advil said:
I use "Expert Dark Room" for Desktop SDR and SDR gaming, and when an HDR source is detected it's in Filmmaker Mode (User) which I use for both HDR movies and HDR gaming.

I do not use the actual "game" screen mode.

Under picture, instant game response, enable it for the HDMI input you have your PC on.

Now you have low latency mode enabled in that picture mode... just like "game" mode but with most of the other preferred settings the setup guides recommend.

The HDMI input is set to PC on the Home Dashboard.
Click to expand...
The last time I tried it a few firmware versions ago, there was a noticeable increase in input latency on anything other than Game, even with instant game response on and the input labeled PC.
 
Yea it has been tested and measured, anything other than game mode has a quite a bit more input lag. As always some people will not mind and the higher the refresh rate the less noticeable it is. ISF at 120hz is playable, but at 60hz (or 60fps with VRR) it reaches unbearable territory for me, personally.

So don't fix what isn't broken if you're not a somewhat competitive gamer. Just have fun.
 
Could be why I havn't noticed. The competitive games I play lock at near 120fps... the single player pretty games I don't care. I'm interested though. I'll do some more tests in game mode.
 
Wow after 6 months of using my CX, I've finally started to run into some VRR gamma issues during gameplay. Redeemed my free copy of COD Black Ops and I noticed that during gameplay, the near blacks would rapidly flash to a different value then change back, basically looking like a flicker effect. I've always had this behavior during loading screens or even menus but not during actual gameplay. Turning Gsync off made the near black flashing go away, and honestly since I can run this game at 100+ fps on a 3090 I'm not really noticing the lack of VRR. Definitely going to suck if I run into this problem with more games and can't run them at high enough fps to not miss Gsync. Regardless though, still super happy with my CX and I'll just turn Gsync off for any games that have distracting gamma issues because the benefits far outweigh this problem and I'm never going back to an LCD.
 
Advil said:
Could be why I havn't noticed. The competitive games I play lock at near 120fps... the single player pretty games I don't care. I'm interested though. I'll do some more tests in game mode.
Click to expand...
You don't need any game to notice. Many can immediately tell the difference just moving the mouse on desktop. Game mode is noticeably less laggy.
 
I have a 50" TV now, would I notice a a difference in size with the 48"? All the 55" are out of stock, except amazon. What about the Samsung Q80?
 
As far I can tell, you can't use any interpolation on the TV when connected via PC with it labeled as PC. TruMotion will be greyed out on the PC HDMI input. Just thought that might be worth mentioning for anyone who wasn't aware.


------------------------------------------------------------

On my vizio tv in my living room, I keep a number of named settings with different motion settings, brightness and vibrancy/saturation. This helps for daytime viewing and for very low motion content like some western-style storyline anime movies which can look pretty choppy without interpolation. They can also benefit from increased contrast and vibrancy in many cases. That usage scenario doesn't translate directly to my oled off of windows10 due to how the oled works.

Interpolation
--------------------
....On my CX - I've been using smoothing in madVR instead of the TV's (greyed out) interpolation for some movies since I'm playing everything from the same win10 1080ti hdmi out so far to PC mode/icon hdmi on the OLED.. and never switching to other hdmi inputs/devices.
... You can assign custom hotkeys for most things in madVR (step contrast up/down keys, step saturation up/down keys, enable/disable function toggle keys, etc.). The hotkeys will only be active when the video playing is active/focused.
... Smoothing eliminates judder in low fps movies which is more obvious on OLED response times (especially since I'm running 60hz for now until I can get the 3000 series gpu I want later on). Not everyone likes interpolation but if it's pure without artifacts I much prefer it to seeing judder personally. I tested it on/off on a 4k/UHD HDR fantasy movie yesterday and it looked great. Admittedly some special FX get a lot less blurring to camouflage or blend out their imperfect compositing/overlaying but it's well worth it to me.

Obviously I'm not using interpolation in games or anything else. It's only on mpc-hc+madVR. In fact I'm just running 60hz 4k rgb without VRR on my 1080ti(s) on the desktop and capped at 57fps in games vs tearing using rivatuner statistics server(RTSS) until the 3090 model I want is released and is available to me at retail price w/o scalping.

Dynamic Tone Mapping
---------------------------------
From what I've read,

LG CX's built in dynamic tone mapping is by nature not true to the original content so most recommend leaving it off - even though leaving it off can still result in loss of some color details due to static tone mapping "compression" (since the LG CX's peak color brightness is limited to around 800nit).

HGiG tone mapping is good for games that support it directly with their own specific HGiG curve, or for games that allow you to calibrate HDR in the game settings to 800 nit peak. Otherwise I guess neither HGiG nor DynamicToneMapping will be running actively for most normally.

It's worth noting that:
DolbyVision/DV movies have their own dynamic tone mapping (per scene) built in to their HDR metadata. LG CX has suffered raised blacks in DV content. (Not sure if the lastest firmwares have fixed that completely or not).

HDR10 has static tone mapping (plain HDR metadata, at whatever peak nit it was mastered at, fed to the tv which then applies static tone mapping).
HDR10+ has dynamic tone mapping per scene like DolbyVision. (LG CX doesn't support HDR10+ but supports DV).

It also might be worth mentioning that
madVR also has dynamic tone mapping capability that you can enable but most people seem to use it for enhancing a projector's image quality. It breaks the original HDR values like the LG CX's own tone mapping does but looks like it allows a lot more tweaking/configuring of some parameters so it allows you to pick your own trade-offs if you feel like messing with it.
madVR Beginner's Guide -> HDR (July, 2020)


Static vs. Dynamic Tone Mapping
----------------------------------------------

Gimpfont 3 points · 4 months ago
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comme...v?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

The TV has static tone mapping for all HDR content. Even if you’re watching something mastered in a max of 4000 nits our TVs aren’t so stupid they’d just clip anything over 800. Having dynamic tone mapping turned off just means it does it once at the start of the film/show/game based on the metadata that the content states is its max and min brightness.

Why is this such a common misconception? Just to be clear:

The TVs will tone map, or it would look ridiculous. It’s part of being an HDR tv! Reading the metadata and mapping it to the TVs capability.

Dynamic tone mapping is different. Dolby Vision has dynamic meta data produced by the content creator to adjust the max and min brightness for each scene or frame. This dynamic tone mapping setting is for HDR10 content which has one set of max and min brightness for the entire content. This is a way for some TVs to try and work out a way of guessing that meta data based on each scene or frame for HDR10 content. It might look brighter or more punchy but it’s not what the content creator predicted and is the best guess of the tv.

Turning off DYNAMIC meta data does not mean you will have everything over ~800 nits clipped!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
THUMPer said:
I have a 50" TV now, would I notice a a difference in size with the 48"? All the 55" are out of stock, except amazon. What about the Samsung Q80?
Click to expand...
It’s only 2” so the perceived difference is going to be next to nothing. You are gaining PPI and may want to sit slightly closer to the 48” if you want the exact same FOV, but I doubt you would need to do that. I would choose the CX 48 over any size Q80, personally.
 
Porter_ said:
It’s only 2” so the perceived difference is going to be next to nothing. You are gaining PPI and may want to sit slightly closer to the 48” if you want the exact same FOV, but I doubt you would need to do that. I would choose the CX 48 over any size Q80, personally.
Click to expand...
our current viewing distance is about 13ft. this is a tv for normal use, not really gaming right now.
 
THUMPer said:
our current viewing distance is about 13ft. this is a tv for normal use, not really gaming right now.
Click to expand...
I was responding with PC monitor use in mind, but my post is still valid. For me, when it comes to regular TV use size makes a bigger difference (especially at 13’ viewing distance) so I would probably wait until you can find the 55” CX in stock.
 
THUMPer said:
our current viewing distance is about 13ft. this is a tv for normal use, not really gaming right now.
Click to expand...
At that viewing distance you could go for even the 65 inch model if you have the room for it. Otherwise I would wait to get the 55". IMO the 48" is not worth buying unless it's for PC use as the smaller size is great for that but for TV watching bigger is better in general.

My parents have my old 50" Panasonic plasma and I was watching it at their place during Christmas holidays and it looks great for a 1080p model but at that size and viewing distance similar to yours, 4K seems like a waste unless you go much bigger size. I use the 65" in my own living room at maybe 8-9 feet viewing distance and find it great and very immersive. It felt huge initially but now it seems just normal.
 
Can you guys give the gradients here a look and let me know what you see: https://www.eizo.be/monitor-test/

After calibration in SDR mode, they are all quite good for me -- no color cast in the greyscale, colors all decent and relatively smooth (though not as good as a half decent LCD). I went down the calibration path in the first place due to very poor gradients in HDR mode but starting to wonder if it's actually a Windows 10 or Nvidia problem. The problem is there was an obvious color cast depending on luminance especially noticeable in greyscale, but present in blended colors as well (i.e. CMY, not RGB). Calibration didn't really help, but in my testing I noticed that gradient video files played from a USB stick in Cinema mode at least looked good (no game mode available in USB video player mode). Switch to cinema mode playing same files from my PC, gradients look like crap again. One thing I just discovered that helped significantly and seems to have removed color cast from greyscale is going into Windows advanced display settings and changing refresh rate from 119.998 Hz to 120 Hz even -- no idea why it was set there, the NVCP just displayed 120. Yellow still looks bad though.

Anyway I was hoping to just use HDR mode full time with brightness slider set appropriately, but looks like there are some bugs still. In normal usage it looks totally fine but I wouldn't trust it for photo editing, while I do trust SDR post-cal. This is all with a 3080 on the latest hotfix driver by the way.
 
what's up the Sound Share prompt that always pops up when I resume the computer from standy/sleep mode and power back on the monitor? I find myself having to exit the Sound Share prompt most times and didn't see a settings location to disable it.

Thanks.
 
At this point in the game would it be worth upgrading to the CX or wait for the new C1's? I haven't seen any specs yet but I would hate to upgrade now and them include something new or better in a new model.
 
It seems like from any insider info I've seen so far, that there will be no 48 inch "C1". So if the larger 55inch or greater sizes are a problem that would be something to consider.

 
highlander2607 said:
At this point in the game would it be worth upgrading to the CX or wait for the new C1's? I haven't seen any specs yet but I would hate to upgrade now and them include something new or better in a new model.
Click to expand...
When does the 2021 line typically drop? I am considering just buying the 48CX from Costco and use the 90-day return period if the 2021 models drop with a upgraded variant of the 48" model.
 
elvn said:
It seems like from any insider info I've seen so far, that there will be no 48 inch "C1". So if the larger 55inch or greater sizes are a problem that would be something to consider.

Click to expand...


Makes no sense considering this: https://www.t3.com/us/news/new-lg-c1-oled-tv-lined-up-for-jan-11th-announcement

"It's also important to note that a second LG factory in China is now busying away with a new production method that apparently allows the easier mass production of both 48-inch and 77-inch screens. "
 
will see. nothing showing in model leaks so far anyway according to that vid. That is, they seem to have registered every other 2021 LG Oled model and size in that Korean database he is referencing yet there is no 48 registered for 2021. Maybe that could change though.
 
elvn said:
will see. nothing showing in model leaks so far anyway according to that vid. That is, they seem to have registered every other 2021 LG Oled model and size in that Korean database he is referencing yet there is no 48 registered for 2021. Maybe that could change though.
Click to expand...
Yikes... Hope the 48" sticks around. I want one for pc use but won't be in the market for a few (budget).
 
Anyone know where to download older firmwares? 3.21.09 is killing me...I've gotta unplug the power every time I wanna use my monitor. I think 3.11.25 was the one that was working perfectly for me.
 
Tol said:
Anyone know where to download older firmwares? 3.21.09 is killing me...I've gotta unplug the power every time I wanna use my monitor. I think 3.11.25 was the one that was working perfectly for me.
Click to expand...
I don't think it allows you to downgrade :(.
 
GoldenTiger said:
Yikes... Hope the 48" sticks around. I want one for pc use but won't be in the market for a few (budget).
Click to expand...
It's possible that LG's ROI on it is just too small. There's no doubt that the 48" model was a success, but if you look at Best Buy's website, the 77" model has more customer reviews than the 48". That's not good, as I'm sure the 77" makes LG a lot more money than the 48" model.
 
It sounds like they are gearing facilities for it (hdtvtest also previously mentioned the more efficient 48 cut from a larger panel method in one of the vids if i remember correctly)... so it seems like they will be making or at least able to make a 48" at some point in the newer chinese production facilities. The question posed was if they are going to have a 48 inch model released in 2021 (or the first half of 2021?) since the question was framed as - having waited this long for the 48 inch, should they wait a little longer for "the 2021 48inch model".

Specifically:
highlander2607 said:
At this point in the game would it be worth upgrading to the CX or wait for the new C1's? I haven't seen any specs yet but I would hate to upgrade now and them include something new or better in a new model.
Click to expand...
DrewRosenHouse said:
When does the 2021 line typically drop? I am considering just buying the 48CX from Costco and use the 90-day return period if the 2021 models drop with a upgraded variant of the 48" model.
Click to expand...

.....

A lot of different tech is shown at CES that doesn't make it to market the same year (or ever) so time will tell about that curve-able one and at what price.

Will also see if they add a 48" C1 to that korean registry of models that it is apparently missing from. Could happen but no 48" model showing as registered yet afaik while all of the other 2021 models+sizes are.

----------------------------

Personally I'm sticking with the 48cx which was a considerable purchase. I'm not one to flip expensive screen purchases. If I was that interested in 2021 models I'd just return mine as I'm still within the return window. With my setup, even a 55" model would work. I'm very happy with the 48" CX though it looks incredible.

There has been speculation that the newer models might use a different subpixel layout. If the speculation turned out to be true, instead of WRGB it would be RBWG like it is on the 8k models which could make them a bit brighter at smaller % windows for HDR highlights, maybe up to 1000nit. That would open up the peak color volume a bit and possibly be a better basis for static tone mapping of HDR content. I don't know if that different pixel layout would affect RGB pc text adversely though.
 
Last edited:
repoman0 said:
Can you guys give the gradients here a look and let me know what you see: https://www.eizo.be/monitor-test/

After calibration in SDR mode, they are all quite good for me -- no color cast in the greyscale, colors all decent and relatively smooth (though not as good as a half decent LCD). I went down the calibration path in the first place due to very poor gradients in HDR mode but starting to wonder if it's actually a Windows 10 or Nvidia problem. The problem is there was an obvious color cast depending on luminance especially noticeable in greyscale, but present in blended colors as well (i.e. CMY, not RGB). Calibration didn't really help, but in my testing I noticed that gradient video files played from a USB stick in Cinema mode at least looked good (no game mode available in USB video player mode). Switch to cinema mode playing same files from my PC, gradients look like crap again. One thing I just discovered that helped significantly and seems to have removed color cast from greyscale is going into Windows advanced display settings and changing refresh rate from 119.998 Hz to 120 Hz even -- no idea why it was set there, the NVCP just displayed 120. Yellow still looks bad though.

Anyway I was hoping to just use HDR mode full time with brightness slider set appropriately, but looks like there are some bugs still. In normal usage it looks totally fine but I wouldn't trust it for photo editing, while I do trust SDR post-cal. This is all with a 3080 on the latest hotfix driver by the way.
Click to expand...
Did you try calibrating white balance in the service menu? That bypasses all processing and affects all modes and should give better results. But yeah Windows/Nvidia has its own range of problems which might be affecting things. I personally leave windows HDR off as it seems to make ABL more aggressive, and I dislike the super bright TV menu for normal usage.
 
DrewRosenHouse said:
When does the 2021 line typically drop? I am considering just buying the 48CX from Costco and use the 90-day return period if the 2021 models drop with a upgraded variant of the 48" model.
Click to expand...
Revealed at CES and actually available in stores sometime around summer. At least that's how it went for the CX 48". If you want one now don't expect to be within a return period for a newer one.
 
Seyumi said:
Uhh not exactly what I was expecting but interesting none the less:

https://www.tweaktown.com/news/7704...le-oled-gaming-display-at-ces-2021/index.html

LG 48” curved & bendable OLED that can also go flat it appears.
Click to expand...
The one in the pic looks like it would be something else than 16:9 aspect ratio but not sure if it's a real pic or just some Photoshop mockup or if the curve makes it appear longer horizontally. I would be all in on a 48" curved ultrawide OLED though, especially if it was 5120x2160. Unlikely to happen.

I don't see much need for it to be able to bend from flat to curved but it's still a neat feature if it can be user controlled to anything in between. As is I would definitely like if my CX 48 was curved as it would make the edges nicer to use but I would not upgrade just to have that feature. Let's see what is out there 2-3 years from now.
 
Anyone have a simple approach to basic calibration?

I probably spent 5 hours reading avsforums today to try and understand how to calibrate this TV.

After wading through thousands of pages of conflicting information, I'm about to give up. It seems even CalMAN has issues - the 1D LUT (for greyscale/white balance) it generates causes various artifacts.

I was thinking that just a simple white balance correction might be all I need - and there is advice on loading a 109% patch and adjusting the service menu WB to hit a 6500k target. But will this really be better than the factory WB calibration, which uses a 20k+ calorimeter compared to my 200$ i1 display?

Anyways, I'm totally lost and confused on calibration, maybe I'll just forget about it and go back to enjoying my screen. :LOL: It does seem to be overly red though on the Warm2 / 6500k setting...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top