LG 48CX

yeah I'm not using codec packs or anything outside of mpc-hc's base install (and madVR as renderer with a simple drop down menu selection) .. so no I'm not sending down any hole..

That process I showed just
..ports MadVR as the renderer with a simple drop down in mpc-hc options
.. sets madVR option to pass through the HDR metadata.

I'm not doing all of the massive additions and tweaking "under the hood" people used to do in order to upscale/supersample 480p dvds. :confused:
.. I mean outside of default addition of MadVR and having it pass through HDR metadata untouched.. I'm not doing anything.

But whatever works for you if you like a newer build/code-base nothing wrong with that. 🍻
 
has anyone tried the LG CX48 with any slim wall mounts? Wanted to get as close to the wall as possible. Wish id gotten the GX instead but too late.

Which mount would you recommend,
 
Asked this early but perhaps not correctly....
Would there be a reason I don’t see the toggle in display options for “Enable HDR for Games and Apps”? I only see the enable HDR. Unless I keep looking in wrong place haha.

I ask because I have one game that won’t enable its HDR or conflicts with Windows HDR... the game looks fine with windows HDR off.
 
If I'm not mistaken, there is no Games/Apps specific toggle and neithet will switch HDR on/off for you on the fly (except HDR aware media players when they detect SDR vs HDR content).

For Games - you either toggle Win 10s HDR to on before you launch a game and then if it has HDR support it will allow you to toggle it in-game

OR you leave HDR off in Windows and any launched game will not recognize HDR capability and run as if SDR only.

This is why HDR quick toggle tools (taskbar HDR, etc) scattered around the interweb githubs are a blessing. At least until Windows and Game/App implementation matures enough to become seamless - circa 2025.
 
Perscitus said:
If I'm not mistaken, there is no Games/Apps specific toggle and neithet will switch HDR on/off for you on the fly (except HDR aware media players when they detect SDR vs HDR content).

For Games - you either toggle Win 10s HDR to on before you launch a game and then if it has HDR support it will allow you to toggle it in-game

OR you leave HDR off in Windows and any launched game will not recognize HDR capability and run as if SDR only.

This is why HDR quick toggle tools (taskbar HDR, etc) scattered around the interweb githubs are a blessing. At least until Windows and Game/App implementation matures enough to become seamless - circa 2025.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I think I had a total knucklehead moment... I don’t believe the Long Dark supports HDR on PC, but does on consoles.

I’ll take a look for a good HDR toggle!

So I guess my other question is, is it worth keeping windows 10 HDR on at all?
 
Discussed a few pages back - Vegetable the 4th.

Short answer - no.

Slightly longer answer - somewhat fixed. Latest hotfix driver, latest non-engineering firmware.
 
C9 question...
Just hooked up my 3090 to my c9. if instant game response is on at 4k 120 the tv acts likes it loses the signal once the card goes into 3d and on the desktop I get random blinks and sometimes the tv gets big black strips like part of the panel lost signal or something....I believe igr has to be on for g-sync or 120hz to work? 4k60 and 1440p 120 works fine just like on my 2080ti

Any ideas? Everything is updated tried all the ports on the tv ect. Could it be the cable? I brought the cheapest 2.1 one at bb
 
Randomly I will lose signal to my monitor. The image just freezes for a split second and then the screen goes blank and say "No signal" for then to imidiately go back to a signal where it will say the usual "Game mode". I see that Windows Night mode/light does not work after this. So I have to disable and enable it. This happens in idle just browsing the internet.

Is this my screen, GPU or Windows that is causing this? I cannot believe its the cable as I have tried to different with no change. My setup is of cause the 48" CX and then a RTX 3070 TUF OC from ASUS.
 
tunatime said:
C9 question...
Just hooked up my 3090 to my c9. if instant game response is on at 4k 120 the tv acts likes it loses the signal once the card goes into 3d and on the desktop I get random blinks and sometimes the tv gets big black strips like part of the panel lost signal or something....I believe igr has to be on for g-sync or 120hz to work? 4k60 and 1440p 120 works fine just like on my 2080ti

Any ideas? Everything is updated tried all the ports on the tv ect. Could it be the cable? I brought the cheapest 2.1 one at bb
Click to expand...
I have the same problem. Instant game response only seems to work with 4k 60Hz (and then only 8-bit, not 10 or 12). Whenever I enable G-SYNC, half of the screen is blacked out (split screen), which is solved by changing refresh rate or switching HDR on/off. Running the Pendulum demo to test G-SYNC only works correctly at 60Hz. At 100Hz or 120Hz the screen blacks out completely and the tv loses the signal. I have the latest firmware (05.00.10) which was supposed to fix this issue. Tested multiple cables, no dice. Running 4k 120Hz 12-bit without G-SYNC enabled works perfectly though, so I doubt it's the cables fault.
 
VinnieM said:
I have the same problem. Instant game response only seems to work with 4k 60Hz (and then only 8-bit, not 10 or 12). Whenever I enable G-SYNC, half of the screen is blacked out (split screen), which is solved by changing refresh rate or switching HDR on/off. Running the Pendulum demo to test G-SYNC only works correctly at 60Hz. At 100Hz or 120Hz the screen blacks out completely and the tv loses the signal. I have the latest firmware (05.00.10) which was supposed to fix this issue. Tested multiple cables, no dice. Running 4k 120Hz 12-bit without G-SYNC enabled works perfectly though, so I doubt it's the cables fault.
Click to expand...
Sounds exactly like what I'm having. so120hz works without instant game response you just lose g-sync?
 
tunatime said:
Sounds exactly like what I'm having. so120hz works without instant game response you just lose g-sync?
Click to expand...
Yes, 120Hz works without a problem, just G-SYNC doesn't work. I leave G-SYNC disabled for now, to avoid the issues. Hopefully it will be resolved in a future update. Btw, I have a 3090 as well, don't know if it is the cause of the issues 🤔
 
VinnieM said:
Yes, 120Hz works without a problem, just G-SYNC doesn't work. I leave G-SYNC disabled for now, to avoid the issues. Hopefully it will be resolved in a future update. Btw, I have a 3090 as well, don't know if it is the cause of the issues 🤔
Click to expand...
3090 over here and gsync works for me at 120hz and instant game response pops up every time.

Pendulum demo runs fine also at 120hz with gsync.

My settings are 4:4:4 and 12bits in nvcp.
 
Rainstar said:
has anyone tried the LG CX48 with any slim wall mounts? Wanted to get as close to the wall as possible. Wish id gotten the GX instead but too late.

Which mount would you recommend,
Click to expand...
I recently purchased (12/20/20) the Vogels 546 Thin mount full motion for my LG CX 48. The screen should be around 3.5 inches from the wall once mounted. Bought it off of Amazon for $349.52. It connects to 1 stud on the wall. However my wall studs are off centered and I need to buy a 3/4 plywood to mount to the wall studs so I can center the mount on the plywood. I have not installed it as of yet. I went to my local Best Buy, Home Depot, and Lowes and looked at their offerings for wall mounts. Home Depot and Lowes had limited offerings at best as I knew they would. Best Buy mounts that I looked at from Sanus were more then the Vogels mount. There were some offerings in the mid $200 range but the reviews were all over the place. Once again I am looking for a full motion mount. Searching Youtube I came across a review for the Vogels mount. I have attached the video.
 
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Rainstar said:
has anyone tried the LG CX48 with any slim wall mounts? Wanted to get as close to the wall as possible. Wish id gotten the GX instead but too late.

Which mount would you recommend,
Click to expand...
I used the ECHOGEAR Low Profile. I had to use a few extra washers I had laying around because the screws they provided were a bit too long for the CX48. But once it's on the wall, it looks gorgeous.
 
I just hooked up this tv to my 3090, it is only giving me 4k 60hz though.. what settings do I need on the tv in order to get 4k 120? I am using hdmi 4 and set it to PC mode.. and tv is in game mode.
 
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doox00 said:
I just hooked up this tv to my 3090, it is only giving me 4k 60hz though.. what settings do I need on the tv in order to get 4k 120? I am using hdmi 4 and set it to PC mode.. and tv is in game mode.
Click to expand...
Did you scroll down the resolution list in Windows and select the 3840x2160 under the “PC” heading?
 
Porter_ said:
Did you scroll down the resolution list in Windows and select the 3840x2160 under the “PC” heading?
Click to expand...
Hmm, I will double check that.. I was just looking at the resolutions at the top of the list and max it went to was 60hz.

Yep, I'm dumb, that was it.. thanks! :)
 
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hey so I have increased the size of text, apps and other items to 200% for this display and have also changed some ease of use display settings like making text to 125 and increasing the size and changing the color of the cursor and mouse pointer. This is working out well when I'm viewing the screen from a distance but I have noticed that some apps don't respond when I click any fields in them. Media Monkey music player is one such app. I cannot even navigate to the settings menu in it to see about adjusting font size because nothing is responsive now in the app except the mouse scroll wheel. (The app isn't locking up, it simply doesn't respond to any mouse clicks.)

Is there a way to troubleshoot/fix such issues in apps? I am assuming it's caused by my recent change of the font size and cursor and mouse pointer in Windows 10.
 
I see on yt videos of people changing settings on the tv under picture and advanced or other settings menu (don't remember what its called exactly) It has gamma white balance etc options in there.. Mine are all greyed out.. ideas why that is? (latest firmware installed). I am in Game picture mode and hdmi input set for PC.
 
doox00 said:
I see on yt videos of people changing settings on the tv under picture and advanced or other settings menu (don't remember what its called exactly) It has gamma white balance etc options in there.. Mine are all greyed out.. ideas why that is? (latest firmware installed). I am in Game picture mode and hdmi input set for PC.
Click to expand...
PC mode will disable some settings.
 
I'm continuing to have some issues with maintaining a stable sync, primarily on power-up or resuming from sleep. Perhaps 50% of the time, when Windows boots to the desktop I either get no picture, occasional "invalid format" messages or various rates of blinking. Sometimes a reset of the PC fixes this. That said, unplugging the HDMI cable and re-inserting it *almost always* fixes the issue and gives me a Windows desktop. Still a possible cable issue? (I am using the Zeskit 2m cable; I have a 1m on order now.)

Running 4k / 120 / 8bpp. I have found some skittishness with signal at 10bpp. 12bpp is not showing up as an option for me.
 
Yes cable issue. I had the same problem and a different cable resolved it. FYI the Zeskit cables never worked for me and I ended up with some random cable from eBay.
 
So what are the thoughts now on burn-in on these screens using this for primary desktop display?
 
Monstieur said:
I got the CX at launch. Used 16 hours a day, everyday, at 120 nits on the desktop with automatic dimming and screen shift disabled. No sign of burn-in yet.
Click to expand...

What is your daily routine, I mean do you browse internet for hours each day, using like Chrome with bookmarks bar on?
Do you often use Office software like Excel or Word so you have large white area on screen for longer period of times?
I'm guessing you keep taskbar hidden and no desktop icons.
 
phinix said:
What is your daily routine, I mean do you browse internet for hours each day, using like Chrome with bookmarks bar on?
Do you often use Office software like Excel or Word so you have large white area on screen for longer period of times?
I'm guessing you keep taskbar hidden and no desktop icons.
Click to expand...
I do keep some static windows open most of the day assuredly, that is my concern.
 
FrgMstr said:
So what are the thoughts now on burn-in on these screens using this for primary desktop display?
Click to expand...
Mine is fairly new I’ve probably got 300 hours on it so far, used for gaming and office work (Excel, Outlook, Word, etc.) and I’ve got no signs of burn in. I’m not doing anything overly conservative to protect it, just turn it off if I know I’m going to step away from the computer for 20+ minutes.
 
I''ve got 384 hours on mine right now... honestly I'm surprised it's only that much so far. Just about a month of ownership now. So we'll find out in a year or so since I'll put 3500-4000 hours on it.
 
FrgMstr said:
So what are the thoughts now on burn-in on these screens using this for primary desktop display?
Click to expand...
6 months of 8+ hour desktop use and no burn-in. 120 nits brightness, dark mode in use wherever it is available and taskbar/topbar/dock hidden. Black background. I turn the display off when taking longer breaks.
 
7 months here and 10+ daily hours, 80 nits for SDR because the room is very dark. Same as above, dark mode when possible, auto-hide taskbar, black background and I turn it off with the remote when walking away for a few minutes or playing in VR (not a full power cycle though, I do those only when it's going to be several hours).
 
kalston said:
7 months here and 10+ daily hours, 80 nits for SDR because the room is very dark. Same as above, dark mode when possible, auto-hide taskbar, black background and I turn it off with the remote when walking away for a few minutes or playing in VR (not a full power cycle though, I do those only when it's going to be several hours).
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How do you do a full power cycle? The remote does not turn it off?

This reminds me, I have 3 lg tvs on this setup, the cx 48" and 2 nano 85 49" screens.. but the remote works on all 3, is there a way to change it so they are individual. There is an ID setting in the menu, I changed that but does not do anything it seems.
 
doox00 said:
How do you do a full power cycle? The remote does not turn it off?

This reminds me, I have 3 lg tvs on this setup, the cx 48" and 2 nano 85 49" screens.. but the remote works on all 3, is there a way to change it so they are individual. There is an ID setting in the menu, I changed that but does not do anything it seems.
Click to expand...

If you find out let me know. I have my CX at my desk but my B7 is the living room TV and sometimes my wife turns it on and it turns off my CX mid game :(. Only the power buttons are shared between them, everything else works independently.
 
phinix said:
What is your daily routine, I mean do you browse internet for hours each day, using like Chrome with bookmarks bar on?
Do you often use Office software like Excel or Word so you have large white area on screen for longer period of times?
I'm guessing you keep taskbar hidden and no desktop icons.
Click to expand...
2831 hours on the TV. HDR is permanently enabled on the desktop with SDR content at 120 nits. 90% of the time the browser is maximized with the icons, address bar, and scrollbar statically in place. I've hidden just the Taskbar but am considering unhiding it as it's buggy. I'm fine with junking the TV in 2 years, as a comparable monitor like PG32UQX / Predator X32 would cost $4000.
 
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Update.. I did get Emby to work launching an external player - in my case currently mpc-hc + mad VR passing through the HDR metadata - but it should work with any since it's just pointing to the file location like a shortcut.

I set up the external player's options so that once it's launched, the ext. player's (mpc-hc) settings then automatically play in full screen on the LG CX monitor # , as I have three monitors. It's nice that it can streamline all of that right from the emby index/thumbnail launch now. It's also great because the external player supports HDR where plex and emby do not.

It works very well but just so you know you have to set up the external player option in the Emby theater app (rather than using the emby server as a player) and it won't work unless you have the Emby premier license / serial number installed in the Emby server itself.

............


doox00 said:
How do you do a full power cycle? The remote does not turn it off?

This reminds me, I have 3 lg tvs on this setup, the cx 48" and 2 nano 85 49" screens.. but the remote works on all 3, is there a way to change it so they are individual. There is an ID setting in the menu, I changed that but does not do anything it seems.
Click to expand...
With IR remotes it's easy to shield the receptor on the tv or to use a repeater receiver near you and the transmitter pointed directly at the tv's receptor on the other end.. but RF remotes aren't so easy. You can use your phone or a tablet to control the TV remotely over WiFi though so that might end up being a better option if you keep having issues.

https://www.lg.com/us/experience-tvs/remote-apps

phinix said:
What is your daily routine, I mean do you browse internet for hours each day, using like Chrome with bookmarks bar on?
Do you often use Office software like Excel or Word so you have large white area on screen for longer period of times?
I'm guessing you keep taskbar hidden and no desktop icons.
Click to expand...

I didn't get mine that long ago and with the holidays I haven't used it as much. I keep a 43" 4k on the side(s) for desktop/app use and mostly use the CX for fullscreen videos (setting my player to auto launch full screen on it) , and full screen games. Black background, no taskbar. I dragged the taskbar manually to my side monitor on the top edge and locked it there, actually locked away with taskbar hider via hotkey to show/hide toggle.
 
doox00 said:
How do you do a full power cycle? The remote does not turn it off?

This reminds me, I have 3 lg tvs on this setup, the cx 48" and 2 nano 85 49" screens.. but the remote works on all 3, is there a way to change it so they are individual. There is an ID setting in the menu, I changed that but does not do anything it seems.
Click to expand...

If you disable the Quickstart option (which I did because it's buggy) turning it off with the remote does a full power cycle (keep the TV connected to power and it still won't prevent the automatic pixel refresher), you can notice because there's a noticeable delay when turning the TV back on (and also a little "click" sound from inside the TV). That's what I mean.

If you have handshaking issues though (haven't had them myself for over a month now) then you will most likely trigger them almost every time by doing that so may need to restart the TV more than once to get it working right. That's what I suffered from until recently.
 
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