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LG 48CX

peppergomez,

You really shouldn't be disabling it... for obvious reasons. Try to live with it on.

If you leave the screen in SDR mode and get your oled brightness down to 20 +/- it won't do it much and its plenty bright in a dim room. I believe I currently use mine at 21 and I havn't noticed any frequent shifting on my desktop when I'm using it at that level. Also set dark mode for every program and website you can and it will really leave you alone. If you run your screen at oled 75-100 like when viewing HDR games or movies... yes it kicks in big time. Like if I'm playing Cyberpunk in HDR and I leave a static screen or the inventory menu up it dims the whole screen down pretty quickly if it sits. Which all in all... is a good thing. As long as the screen is updating it goes back into high brightness mode within a second or so.

TRY to not use things with solid white backgrounds. Browsers have dark modes built in, and there are add-ons if it doesn't. I believe there is also a way to dark mode Office.

And leave the screen shift on. Any time you are using a full screen app or game the text elements sit on exactly the same pixels forever. This can add up to thousands of hours of text sitting in one place. Might as well let it move those around and diffuse the wear. I have had no issue leaving the shift on. On a 4k screen to me anyway it's been completely unnoticeable. I have to work at figuring out which few lines are off the screen. About the only way I know it's even working is because I can't make the taskbar autohide line go away entirely, but it's set to grey. Sometimes I can see the grey line at the bottom of the screen, and at max shift in that direction it disappears completely for a little while. The screen remains at full resolution, it just moves the image around so a few lines are off screen at any one time. It doesn't dither or anything destructive to the image like that.

Both of these features seem to me to work well and as intended to protect the screen when it should be and without being too annoying. If it's constantly knocking brightness down or irritating you, try to change the way you use the screen or you might be cruising for burn-in. The feature is doing a good thing and trying to help you save the screen.

I havn't really encountered it frequently until I started playing Cyberpunk in HDR a lot last night. Shadow of the Tomb Raider in HDR only rarely caused it to kick on. It's a difference in the way the game elements sit static on screen and how bright they are.

Excel or a white web page... yes... it's going to do it.
 
That was quick. And in seemingly good shape.

PXL_20201230_184539324.jpg
 
So my TV is stuck in 4096x2160 even though I set the NVCP resolution to 3840. What's the fix for this? Using TV resolution of 3840x2160 displays properly but then I'm limited to 60Hz.

EDIT: NVM searched this thread and found the solution. 4k120Hz 10Bit 444 GSYNC HDR is amazeballs!
 

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Advil said:
peppergomez,

You really shouldn't be disabling it... for obvious reasons. Try to live with it on.

If you leave the screen in SDR mode and get your oled brightness down to 20 +/- it won't do it much and its plenty bright in a dim room. I believe I currently use mine at 21 and I havn't noticed any frequent shifting on my desktop when I'm using it at that level. Also set dark mode for every program and website you can and it will really leave you alone. If you run your screen at oled 75-100 like when viewing HDR games or movies... yes it kicks in big time. Like if I'm playing Cyberpunk in HDR and I leave a static screen or the inventory menu up it dims the whole screen down pretty quickly if it sits. Which all in all... is a good thing. As long as the screen is updating it goes back into high brightness mode within a second or so.

TRY to not use things with solid white backgrounds. Browsers have dark modes built in, and there are add-ons if it doesn't. I believe there is also a way to dark mode Office.

And leave the screen shift on. Any time you are using a full screen app or game the text elements sit on exactly the same pixels forever. This can add up to thousands of hours of text sitting in one place. Might as well let it move those around and diffuse the wear. I have had no issue leaving the shift on. On a 4k screen to me anyway it's been completely unnoticeable. I have to work at figuring out which few lines are off the screen. About the only way I know it's even working is because I can't make the taskbar autohide line go away entirely, but it's set to grey. Sometimes I can see the grey line at the bottom of the screen, and at max shift in that direction it disappears completely for a little while. The screen remains at full resolution, it just moves the image around so a few lines are off screen at any one time. It doesn't dither or anything destructive to the image like that.

Both of these features seem to me to work well and as intended to protect the screen when it should be and without being too annoying. If it's constantly knocking brightness down or irritating you, try to change the way you use the screen or you might be cruising for burn-in. The feature is doing a good thing and trying to help you save the screen.

I havn't really encountered it frequently until I started playing Cyberpunk in HDR a lot last night. Shadow of the Tomb Raider in HDR only rarely caused it to kick on. It's a difference in the way the game elements sit static on screen and how bright they are.

Excel or a white web page... yes... it's going to do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, will do.
 
Any good guide any where for setting this up for desktop? My desktop text is no where I want it to be in terms of clarity.
 
So a list just got from my buddy in the EU that swears by his....

id say set it up in game mode so it stays at 120hz 0ms

make the windows bar auto hide

no desktop icons

set wallpaper to rotate through various images

make sure screen shift is on

set pixel refresher to begin when tv is off - that will refresh every pixel (off is remote power button, not off the plug.. needs to stay plugged in)

logo luminance adjustment shoukd be set to high

and then color calibration, contrast etc should be up to your needs, room, etc

_________________________

If you guys have any other suggestions as to what to look at, let me know please.
 
FrgMstr said:
So a list just got from my buddy in the EU that swears by his....

id say set it up in game mode so it stays at 120hz 0ms

make the windows bar auto hide

no desktop icons

set wallpaper to rotate through various images

make sure screen shift is on

set pixel refresher to begin when tv is off - that will refresh every pixel (off is remote power button, not off the plug.. needs to stay plugged in)

logo luminance adjustment shoukd be set to high

and then color calibration, contrast etc should be up to your needs, room, etc

_________________________

If you guys have any other suggestions as to what to look at, let me know please.
Click to expand...

You should also relabel the HDMI input as PC. Although I'm unsure of what benefits that brings.
 
Exactly right - no such issues here on either the CX48 or CX65 since installing the latest firmware back on Dec-17th/18th.

The latest Nvidia hotfix driver mentioned above has worked well in SDR/HDR and Dolby Vision modes with an RTX2xx and RTX3xx series to keep the HDR black level botch at bay.
 
I keep the logo luminance at low not high... but that was because most of the desktop use guides recommended low. I should try high and see if I can spot any difference.

Also, I set the HDMI port to PC in the "home" settings menu.

This will disable a bunch of options, but that's kind of the whole point. Minimize input lag and optimize for PC use.

As for text, if I understand correctly the subpixel arrangement on the CX is not ideal for text at 444 and windows cleartype. I've noticed that RGB 10bit or 12bit (if you run the modded EDID) both look perfect and 444 always has problems with text not being clear (the halos and indistinct font edges). So my opinion is to use RGB instead of 444 always on a PC.

If some of you want to test that and give me your opinion it would help. But at least on my setup RGB is always perfect and 444 is always not. As I've been reading, there's essentially no quality difference between RGB and 444 as long as it works properly. And I'm pretty picky about text display.
 
Where is the screen shift setting found? I don't see it in Picture Options or General.

I have the taskbar set to be hidden but when it is and there is a black/blank screen, I can still see the top line of it visible at the bottom of the screen. Is this cause for concern?
I have a rotating screensaver set after 10 min of inactivity so the menu isn't visible for longer than that at a time.
 
peppergomez said:
Where is the screen shift setting found? I don't see it in Picture Options or General.

I have the taskbar set to be hidden but when it is and there is a black/blank screen, I can still see the top line of it visible at the bottom of the screen. Is this cause for concern?
I have a rotating screensaver set after 10 min of inactivity so the menu isn't visible for longer than that at a time.
Click to expand...

You can use Translucent Taskbar to completely hide that pesky line.
 
peppergomez said:
Where is the screen shift setting found? I don't see it in Picture Options or General.

I have the taskbar set to be hidden but when it is and there is a black/blank screen, I can still see the top line of it visible at the bottom of the screen. Is this cause for concern?
I have a rotating screensaver set after 10 min of inactivity so the menu isn't visible for longer than that at a time.
Click to expand...
Under Picture / OLED Screen Saver

MistaSparkul said:
You can use Translucent Taskbar to completely hide that pesky line.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'll hunt that up.
 
Hey all,

So I was one of "those guys" that posted over in the AVS forum about the new CX firmware giving my setup some issues. It was running fine before but I also had some older NVIDIA drivers, as part of my troubleshooting I updated those and it sounds like I might be in worse shape than before. Is the consensus here that the hotfixed NVIDIA drivers work fine with the latest CX firmware, or has anyone here run into the same issues I've been having around brightness ramp even while in SDR? I figure people here will also know this, but when I switched over to SDR I really like the looks of the isf Dark mode, but even with "Instant Game Response" any mode other than Game mode suffers from increased input lag correct, or was that something they fixed since I read that? Right now I'm just hoping I can go back to being lazy and leaving HDR on full time without my eyes getting slapped around by brightness spikes.
 
Rainstar said:
has anyone tried the LG CX48 with any slim wall mounts? Wanted to get as close to the wall as possible. Wish id gotten the GX instead but too late.

Which mount would you recommend,
Click to expand...
I had the option so went ahead and wall mounted mine. I wanted the thinnest I could reasonably find and snagged one off Amazon that's about 1.2" off the wall. Mine just has some basic tilt which is all I wanted/needed, if you want full articulation then you're looking at something around 2.5" off the wall at least. The 48" actually isn't that heavy for a TV, under 35 lbs sans stand, so a single stud wall mount can probably hold it fine. I've used ECHOGEAR and PERLESMITH personally and they're fine for what they do.
 
KingLord said:
I had the option so went ahead and wall mounted mine. I wanted the thinnest I could reasonably find and snagged one off Amazon that's about 1.2" off the wall. Mine just has some basic tilt which is all I wanted/needed, if you want full articulation then you're looking at something around 2.5" off the wall at least. The 48" actually isn't that heavy for a TV, under 35 lbs sans stand, so a single stud wall mount can probably hold it fine. I've used ECHOGEAR and PERLESMITH personally and they're fine for what they do.
Click to expand...
Cool. Thanks for the tip. I went ahead and order one of the ECHOGEAR.
 
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I havn't run the refresh manually. As long as you leave power to the set and only use the remote to turn it on and off i'll do it's own anti-retention refreshes on some kind of internal schedule. I wouldn't run the manual one unless you develop a problem, or someone comes up with a good reason to.
 
My understanding is that you should only run it manually when you notice major uniformity issues.

It has worked for me (ran it once) with vertical banding that was slightly noticeable even outside of a pure 5% grey test.
 
Advil said:
About the only way I know it's even working is because I can't make the taskbar autohide line go away entirely, but it's set to grey. Sometimes I can see the grey line at the bottom of the screen, and at max shift in that direction it disappears completely for a little while. The screen remains at full resolution, it just moves the image around so a few lines are off screen at any one time. It doesn't dither or anything destructive to the image like that.
Click to expand...

peppergomez said:
Where is the screen shift setting found? I don't see it in Picture Options or General.

I have the taskbar set to be hidden but when it is and there is a black/blank screen, I can still see the top line of it visible at the bottom of the screen. Is this cause for concern?
I have a rotating screensaver set after 10 min of inactivity so the menu isn't visible for longer than that at a time.
Click to expand...
MistaSparkul said:
You can use Translucent Taskbar to completely hide that pesky line.
Click to expand...
Advil said:
Thanks! I'll hunt that up.
Click to expand...
=================================================


The names are clickable links here from a previous post of mine:
Hiding the windows taskbar on the primary monitor
==========================================
There is another app I use called taskbar hider, along with the Translucent Taskbar app. I set a shortcut key in the taskbar hider app to lock my primary monitor's windows taskbar away entirely. I can always hit the shortcut key again to show it but I have little reason to now:
.. All of my tray icons are available on my other monitors. All of their apps are running active on their own monitor's taskbar.
.. If I need to access a media or game app on my primary monitor, I can just alt+Tab or ctrl+alt+Tab there and it will only show the apps that are running on that monitor to choose from.
.. If I need to launch a game or media app to my primary monitor, I have displayfusion shortcut keys (tied to streamdeck buttons) to launch and place them with a keypress or button press. However it would be easy to just hit the windows key while the mouse is on the primary monitor, and keep those primary monitor aimed app shortcuts up on top in the start menu popup. Displayfusion should remember where the app was located last time it was run.

Notification area and Search
=======================
So far the only things that the displayfusion taskbars don't have that I am aware of is the windows notification area and the search icon (or field if you've left it a text entry field). However the roll-out notification panel is easily accessible with the Win+A shortcut (A for "actions") and the search popup is available with Win+S, even with the taskbar locked away hidden. The A and the S are right next to each other on a regular keyboard too incidentally.
Click to expand...

displayfusion.com/
Displayfusion taskbars can be enabled on your secondary monitors.
=================
The displayfusion taskbars can:
..have app icons with live mini-window popups just like the regular windows taskbar.
..have a popup tray (and the clock/chronograph) with tray icons you can interact with just like the regular windows taskbar
..have a windows icon with start menu popup just like the regular windows taskbar.
..when you hit the windows key on your keyboard, the start menu pops up in the lower left corner on whatever monitor your mouse is on.
..you can force the application shortcuts you make on each taskbar to launch on the same monitor as the taskbar the shortcut is on (recommended)
..you can force the app to run as admin by it's shortcut within the displayfusion shortcut editing options instead of the windows shortcut menus.
..adjust the size of the taskbar
..move the windows button to left or right side, or disable it
..move the clock and tray to left or right side or set either of them to be hidden
..

Alt+TAB menu (or Ctrl+ALT+Tab which makes the popup persistent until you click on something)
=====================================================================
Displayfusion can change the behavior of your alt+Tab menu:
..you can change the width and height of the thumbnails
..you can choose whether the thumbs appear on all monitors or only on the current monitor, current windows.
.."current windows only" is very useful so I'm not seeing all of the app thumbnails of what is running on the other monitors.
368008_3dITr9B.png
Click to expand...

Since I've been using it awhile with multiple monitors I ended up unlocking and dragging the actual windows taskbar over to my right monitor and placing it at the top of the screen. Then I lock it away using ALT+SHIFT+Z as a hotkey to toggle show/hide with the taskbarhider app. So I've decided against keeping a taskbar on the OLED at all anymore since it is more of a media and gaming stage in my setup.

Alt+TAB or ALT+CTRL+TAB (persistent popup) via hotkey or streamdeckkey works well to swap or restore apps since displayfusion can optionally limit the popup's contents soley to what windows are open on that monitor at that time. Win+S works great to search or open apps too. Those popups all open on the active monitor window so won't open on the oled unless your mouse is on it ~ it is the last active window used. The only time I really use the taskbar anymore is to access the system tray, but I have a lot of side monitor space so I don't need to minimize as many windows either.

I also can click app icons on my streamdeck that I set up to pop an app to it's "home position" that I preconfigured.
The function works on multiple presses of the same key to:
....check if the app is open or not (if not, open it and place it at the pre-configured location)
... check to see if the app is minimized or not (if minimized, restore to the same pre-configured location.. if not minimized, minimize it)
Then I have a bunch of keys to move whatever generic window is active to the location descibed by the streamdesk key. (top 1/3 of portrait, bottom 2/3, OLED full screen, etc). That is besides having a few global saved window position profiles which are a 1-click placement of all app windows to where you saved them (ahead of time).

Windows notifications, app notifications, and app update notification windows/installs still show up on the primary monitor. As far as I know, opening the action notification area (Win+A) will always open as a sidebar on the primary monitor too. Other than that, in between running media or games on the OLED it is a pure black background for me which is essentially "off".
 
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Hi guys. I have 3 CX48's. They will not connect to wifi as they did before (been a long time since I checked). My firmware on two of them is 3.11.25 and one is 3.11.30.

Does anyone have a link to the latest firmware? I recall putting the firmware on a usb stick in a certain folder or something and doing them manually...
 
eee
equinox654 said:
Keep in mind when you label the input as pc. You change the icon of the input for it to switch modes.
Click to expand...

yeah it's a little tricky to get to the edit point in the current menu system imo.

To change the name to PC input and the ICON to PC :

... Hold the input button down for a bit (below the navigation wheel)
...Choose the hdmi input on the left under TV/inputs if it's not already on the hdmi # your pc is on
...Click the gear cog/wheel on the upper right of the screen "Settings"
...click "Edit" on the settings menu that pops up below that gear cog icon
...click the name side of the HDMI # you want to edit (name change to "PC")
...click the hdmi input looking icon to the left of that name to bring up a "Choose Icon" popup menu that allows you to change the icon to PC (looks like a monitor with a line under it)

If you lose your magic remote "mouse pointer" at any point during the procedure, just spin the navigation wheel a little and it will appear again.

-------------------------------

Not related to changing the name of the inputs but in relation to changing the mode for different viewing material ...

I haven't really looked into it but I'd like to find a way to automate swapping between standard (movie setup for me) mode and game mode using the remote app on my phone or some other app someday instead of having to flip through the menu. On my Vizio low density FALD VA in my living room I can hit one button on the remote to pop up a quick menu that lets me swap between saved sets of settings I configured and named (day/bright, night1, night2, custom1, game, animation, etc).

On the LG CX I have to hit the cog on the magic remote, naviagate with the air mouse to the top left icon, then click to page between user modes while holding my arm up aiming the air mouse. Using all disc directional navigation from the home button involves even more steps.

They should enable a button on the remote that pops up the user settings and jumps to the next setting with every press of that button. And have it set up so that Holding that button will pop up a drop down selection. That's how my vizio does it and it is way more efficient. Unless I'm missing something of course. Like I said, maybe there is a way to do it in the wifi phone app faster, I'll have to look into it. You can HOLD the gear icon down as a shortcut to get to where you can adjust the settings of the input you are already on, but it doesn't let you swap between the named settings from there without air navigating to the top left icon and air clicking between settings again afaik.

Maybe there is a way to customize the remote more. I really haven't done the homework on it yet as I've just been enjoying the TV so far. I'd really like the "LIST channels" button to "List user modes" for quick selection instead since I'll never be using the integrated TV functions on this display. That and/or program the colored buttons to each be one named setting.
Click to expand...

EDIT: There might be a way do it by voice if you enable that, after you click the microphone icon. Not certain it will be able to directly change between user modes or not though, have to research it.
 
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The voice control works, you just have to hold the mic button down. "Movie Mode" switched it to cinema, "Standard Mode" -> "standard" , saying "Game Mode" switched it to game.

 
I use "Expert Dark Room" for Desktop SDR and SDR gaming, and when an HDR source is detected it's in Filmmaker Mode (User) which I use for both HDR movies and HDR gaming.

I do not use the actual "game" screen mode.

Under picture, instant game response, enable it for the HDMI input you have your PC on.

Now you have low latency mode enabled in that picture mode... just like "game" mode but with most of the other preferred settings the setup guides recommend.

The HDMI input is set to PC on the Home Dashboard.
 
Advil said:
I use "Expert Dark Room" for Desktop SDR and SDR gaming, and when an HDR source is detected it's in Filmmaker Mode (User) which I use for both HDR movies and HDR gaming.

I do not use the actual "game" screen mode.

Under picture, instant game response, enable it for the HDMI input you have your PC on.

Now you have low latency mode enabled in that picture mode... just like "game" mode but with most of the other preferred settings the setup guides recommend.

The HDMI input is set to PC on the Home Dashboard.
Click to expand...
The last time I tried it a few firmware versions ago, there was a noticeable increase in input latency on anything other than Game, even with instant game response on and the input labeled PC.
 
Yea it has been tested and measured, anything other than game mode has a quite a bit more input lag. As always some people will not mind and the higher the refresh rate the less noticeable it is. ISF at 120hz is playable, but at 60hz (or 60fps with VRR) it reaches unbearable territory for me, personally.

So don't fix what isn't broken if you're not a somewhat competitive gamer. Just have fun.
 
Could be why I havn't noticed. The competitive games I play lock at near 120fps... the single player pretty games I don't care. I'm interested though. I'll do some more tests in game mode.
 
Wow after 6 months of using my CX, I've finally started to run into some VRR gamma issues during gameplay. Redeemed my free copy of COD Black Ops and I noticed that during gameplay, the near blacks would rapidly flash to a different value then change back, basically looking like a flicker effect. I've always had this behavior during loading screens or even menus but not during actual gameplay. Turning Gsync off made the near black flashing go away, and honestly since I can run this game at 100+ fps on a 3090 I'm not really noticing the lack of VRR. Definitely going to suck if I run into this problem with more games and can't run them at high enough fps to not miss Gsync. Regardless though, still super happy with my CX and I'll just turn Gsync off for any games that have distracting gamma issues because the benefits far outweigh this problem and I'm never going back to an LCD.
 
Advil said:
Could be why I havn't noticed. The competitive games I play lock at near 120fps... the single player pretty games I don't care. I'm interested though. I'll do some more tests in game mode.
Click to expand...
You don't need any game to notice. Many can immediately tell the difference just moving the mouse on desktop. Game mode is noticeably less laggy.
 
I have a 50" TV now, would I notice a a difference in size with the 48"? All the 55" are out of stock, except amazon. What about the Samsung Q80?
 
As far I can tell, you can't use any interpolation on the TV when connected via PC with it labeled as PC. TruMotion will be greyed out on the PC HDMI input. Just thought that might be worth mentioning for anyone who wasn't aware.


------------------------------------------------------------

On my vizio tv in my living room, I keep a number of named settings with different motion settings, brightness and vibrancy/saturation. This helps for daytime viewing and for very low motion content like some western-style storyline anime movies which can look pretty choppy without interpolation. They can also benefit from increased contrast and vibrancy in many cases. That usage scenario doesn't translate directly to my oled off of windows10 due to how the oled works.

Interpolation
--------------------
....On my CX - I've been using smoothing in madVR instead of the TV's (greyed out) interpolation for some movies since I'm playing everything from the same win10 1080ti hdmi out so far to PC mode/icon hdmi on the OLED.. and never switching to other hdmi inputs/devices.
... You can assign custom hotkeys for most things in madVR (step contrast up/down keys, step saturation up/down keys, enable/disable function toggle keys, etc.). The hotkeys will only be active when the video playing is active/focused.
... Smoothing eliminates judder in low fps movies which is more obvious on OLED response times (especially since I'm running 60hz for now until I can get the 3000 series gpu I want later on). Not everyone likes interpolation but if it's pure without artifacts I much prefer it to seeing judder personally. I tested it on/off on a 4k/UHD HDR fantasy movie yesterday and it looked great. Admittedly some special FX get a lot less blurring to camouflage or blend out their imperfect compositing/overlaying but it's well worth it to me.

Obviously I'm not using interpolation in games or anything else. It's only on mpc-hc+madVR. In fact I'm just running 60hz 4k rgb without VRR on my 1080ti(s) on the desktop and capped at 57fps in games vs tearing using rivatuner statistics server(RTSS) until the 3090 model I want is released and is available to me at retail price w/o scalping.

Dynamic Tone Mapping
---------------------------------
From what I've read,

LG CX's built in dynamic tone mapping is by nature not true to the original content so most recommend leaving it off - even though leaving it off can still result in loss of some color details due to static tone mapping "compression" (since the LG CX's peak color brightness is limited to around 800nit).

HGiG tone mapping is good for games that support it directly with their own specific HGiG curve, or for games that allow you to calibrate HDR in the game settings to 800 nit peak. Otherwise I guess neither HGiG nor DynamicToneMapping will be running actively for most normally.

It's worth noting that:
DolbyVision/DV movies have their own dynamic tone mapping (per scene) built in to their HDR metadata. LG CX has suffered raised blacks in DV content. (Not sure if the lastest firmwares have fixed that completely or not).

HDR10 has static tone mapping (plain HDR metadata, at whatever peak nit it was mastered at, fed to the tv which then applies static tone mapping).
HDR10+ has dynamic tone mapping per scene like DolbyVision. (LG CX doesn't support HDR10+ but supports DV).

It also might be worth mentioning that
madVR also has dynamic tone mapping capability that you can enable but most people seem to use it for enhancing a projector's image quality. It breaks the original HDR values like the LG CX's own tone mapping does but looks like it allows a lot more tweaking/configuring of some parameters so it allows you to pick your own trade-offs if you feel like messing with it.
madVR Beginner's Guide -> HDR (July, 2020)


Static vs. Dynamic Tone Mapping
----------------------------------------------

Gimpfont 3 points · 4 months ago
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comme...v?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

The TV has static tone mapping for all HDR content. Even if you’re watching something mastered in a max of 4000 nits our TVs aren’t so stupid they’d just clip anything over 800. Having dynamic tone mapping turned off just means it does it once at the start of the film/show/game based on the metadata that the content states is its max and min brightness.

Why is this such a common misconception? Just to be clear:

The TVs will tone map, or it would look ridiculous. It’s part of being an HDR tv! Reading the metadata and mapping it to the TVs capability.

Dynamic tone mapping is different. Dolby Vision has dynamic meta data produced by the content creator to adjust the max and min brightness for each scene or frame. This dynamic tone mapping setting is for HDR10 content which has one set of max and min brightness for the entire content. This is a way for some TVs to try and work out a way of guessing that meta data based on each scene or frame for HDR10 content. It might look brighter or more punchy but it’s not what the content creator predicted and is the best guess of the tv.

Turning off DYNAMIC meta data does not mean you will have everything over ~800 nits clipped!
Click to expand...
 
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