LG 48CX

[highlander2607]

I like towards the end of the video when he says he believes prices may come down on the 48 inch models because they should have more panels available. Don't really know about a bendable panel though. That I will have to wait to see.

 

[elvn]

Yeah I'm all for more 48" models, I was just saying there apparently were no 2021 48" models in the korean registry he referenced in his other video even though there was every other model and size for 2021. Of course that could change I guess, but people were inquiring as to whether it would be wise to wait a little bit longer and pass on the 48cx, instead looking toward a 48" C1 if they were imminent.


I at first took the curved 48" one mentioned from this year's CES with a grain of salt because I've seen a lot of other things shown from CES that never made it to market. For example this curved OLED was showcased several years ago:

 

[RadXge]

Anyone have a simple approach to basic calibration?

I probably spent 5 hours reading avsforums today to try and understand how to calibrate this TV.

After wading through thousands of pages of conflicting information, I'm about to give up. It seems even CalMAN has issues - the 1D LUT (for greyscale/white balance) it generates causes various artifacts.

I was thinking that just a simple white balance correction might be all I need - and there is advice on loading a 109% patch and adjusting the service menu WB to hit a 6500k target. But will this really be better than the factory WB calibration, which uses a 20k+ calorimeter compared to my 200$ i1 display?

Anyways, I'm totally lost and confused on calibration, maybe I'll just forget about it and go back to enjoying my screen. It does seem to be overly red though on the Warm2 / 6500k setting...

Yes, the forum is a mess and a rabbit hole. I agree that AutoCal is problematic (1D Lut creates artifcat and 3D Lut may be overly simplistic)

My 48CX greatly benefited from a manual calibration since the factory calibration was poorly done. This varies by unit.
So maybe you can perform a pre-calibration run to see how your WB looks like and see if a calibration is necessary?

Here is the manual approach that I propose for SDR using CALMAN.. No need to go in the Service Menu to achieve very good results...
1) Turns off all the Image Enhancement features (Noise reduction, screen shift, etc.)
2) Use either IFS Dark or Day. Set gamma to 2.2 (Bright room) or 2.4 (Dark room) and temperature to Warm 2. Contrast should be set to 85. Black Level should be set to low.
3) Ensure that CALM is set to REC709 and gamma is consistent with the TV setting (Power 2.2 or 2.4)
3) Ensure that brightness is set properly using a black test image (usually from an USB stick)
4) Set OLED Light to achieve desired luminance at White 100% patch.
If is recommended to add 15 nits to the target since the white balance calibration will reduce the luminance.
For example, aim for 115 nits if your target is 100 nits (the usual target for dark room).
5) For white balance, you could do the following
Option A:
Adjust 2-point RGB-High and Low. I personally like 20%/80% but some prefer 30%/100%
Option B (More complicated and more precise... this is consistent with D-Nice recommended settings):
Step 1: 2-point: set optimal RGB-High at 100% white. Generally, blue needs to be lowered. As opposed to Option A, do not modify RGB Low.
Step 2: 22-point: update RGB for each IRE, starting from 100%. Only point 1 should ever go +- 15 or more from the default of 0. Point 2 +- 10 from the default of 0. All other points should be be +-4 of 0 and +-2 of the previous and next point. I recommend to use a spreadsheet to monitor the progression. BTW, do not modify luminance as it will likely introduce artifacts.
6) Do not modify CSM, tint, colors, etc.
7) Re-test luminance and adjust OLED light if necessary
8)

 

[Tol]

Yeah I'm all for more 48" models, I was just saying there apparently were no 2021 48" models in the korean registry he referenced in his other video even though there was every other model and size for 2021. Of course that could change I guess, but people were inquiring as to whether it would be wise to wait a little bit longer and pass on the 48cx, instead looking toward a 48" C1 if they were imminent.


I at first took the curved 48" one mentioned from this year's CES with a grain of salt because I've seen a lot of other things shown from CES that never made it to market. For example this curved OLED was showcased several years ago:

View attachment 315622

That's hilariously silly.




...and I want it. I'd still run an ultrawide resolution and then it would be perfect.

 

[sphinx99]

I'm continuing to have some issues with maintaining a stable sync, primarily on power-up or resuming from sleep. Perhaps 50% of the time, when Windows boots to the desktop I either get no picture, occasional "invalid format" messages or various rates of blinking. Sometimes a reset of the PC fixes this. That said, unplugging the HDMI cable and re-inserting it *almost always* fixes the issue and gives me a Windows desktop. Still a possible cable issue? (I am using the Zeskit 2m cable; I have a 1m on order now.)

Running 4k / 120 / 8bpp. I have found some skittishness with signal at 10bpp. 12bpp is not showing up as an option for me.

Wanted to follow up on this - I replaced the Zeskit 2m cable with a 1m cable and my sync problems (up to 10bpp) have decidedly gone away. This tells me their cables may not be exactly up to snuff, or I got a bad 2m sample. Wanted to share that.

I do not see a 12bpp option in the control panel. Should I? I am using 120Hz and HDR with a RTX 3080.

 

[sphinx99]

Yeah, I have been waiting for a jump-off point from this JS9000 and like what you say above, it seems to be the time.

Some feedback from my perspective:
- I had a JU7100 which though a somewhat lower end (and much less common) model was of a similar ilk to the JS9000, so my comments are versus that
- Burn-in can be mitigated if you're at a markedly-under-max-nits-and-Win10-HDR setup and/or you have reliable use of a screen saver.
- That said, if you're using Windows then you must know that "reliable use of xyz" and Windows are often mutually exclusive. Several times my screen saver, set for 1 minute, never went off while I went about doing whatever, and I came back 5 hours later with a static Windows desktop... and absolutely fairly substantial shadowing that stopped my heart
- THAT said, each time it's happened, the retention has disappeared within minutes/hours/by the following morning so I've as yet had no permanent harm. I use 100% brightness and HDR - it's best for my particular use case.
- This has led to a behavioral change... I often wait for the screen saver to take hold (or power down the PC) before stepping away. It's an annoyance, but I'd describe it as on par with moving to an EV: worth it.

Overall, I think it's worth it. The image quality, VRR, 120Hz all more than make up for it. As a pleasant side effect, I had to ditch flanking speakers from my JU7100 due to size but the CX48's integrated speakers are more than a satisfactory replacement. In fact I like the audio setup better than before.

The only real frustration I've had is fairly substantial video sync issues at 120Hz 4k HDR 10bpp. At least for me, it's proven to be highly sensitive to HDMI cable quality and I've had to go through several cables to get to a modicum of stability. And my Samsung still is superior in that regard. Hopefully further improvements in firmware (and a still-better cable if I can find one) will help. One side note: the CX48 syncs to basic text mode / 720x480 signals faster than the Samsungs. This makes working with BIOS, retro hardware etc. far more productive. My Samsung often wouldn't sync signal until I was past the POST messages and into the Windows boot. which was super annoying when I was troubleshooting or something was wrong.

Going from 40" to 48" has been fully manageable. I suppose I'd still prefer 40" if I had my druthers. But this also is more in the "annoyance" category than anything else.

Overall, zero regrets so far.

 

[NukeDukem]

I replaced the Zeskit 2m cable with a 1m cable and my sync problems (up to 10bpp) have decidedly gone away. This tells me their cables may not be exactly up to snuff, or I got a bad 2m sample. Wanted to share that.

I've been using the Zeskit 1m cable with this TV since April and it's been great. I wonder if length is playing a role here.

 

[Advil]

You have to run the modded profile to get 120hz 12bit. It essentially lets the screen take a 48Gbps signal instead of topping out at 40.

 

[hhkb]

Yes, the forum is a mess and a rabbit hole. I agree that AutoCal is problematic (1D Lut creates artifcat and 3D Lut may be overly simplistic)

My 48CX greatly benefited from a manual calibration since the factory calibration was poorly done. This varies by unit.
So maybe you can perform a pre-calibration run to see how your WB looks like and see if a calibration is necessary?

Here is the manual approach that I propose for SDR using CALMAN.. No need to go in the Service Menu to achieve very good results...
1) Turns off all the Image Enhancement features (Noise reduction, screen shift, etc.)
2) Use either IFS Dark or Day. Set gamma to 2.2 (Bright room) or 2.4 (Dark room) and temperature to Warm 2. Contrast should be set to 85. Black Level should be set to low.
3) Ensure that CALM is set to REC709 and gamma is consistent with the TV setting (Power 2.2 or 2.4)
3) Ensure that brightness is set properly using a black test image (usually from an USB stick)
4) Set OLED Light to achieve desired luminance at White 100% patch.
If is recommended to add 15 nits to the target since the white balance calibration will reduce the luminance.
For example, aim for 115 nits if your target is 100 nits (the usual target for dark room).
5) For white balance, you could do the following
Option A:
Adjust 2-point RGB-High and Low. I personally like 20%/80% but some prefer 30%/100%
Option B (More complicated and more precise... this is consistent with D-Nice recommended settings):
Step 1: 2-point: set optimal RGB-High at 100% white. Generally, blue needs to be lowered. As opposed to Option A, do not modify RGB Low.
Step 2: 22-point: update RGB for each IRE, starting from 100%. Only point 1 should ever go +- 15 or more from the default of 0. Point 2 +- 10 from the default of 0. All other points should be be +-4 of 0 and +-2 of the previous and next point. I recommend to use a spreadsheet to monitor the progression. BTW, do not modify luminance as it will likely introduce artifacts.
6) Do not modify CSM, tint, colors, etc.
7) Re-test luminance and adjust OLED light if necessary
8)

Thanks for the detailed reply!

Just wondering, do I really need to buy CALMAN if just doing a greypoint adjustment like this? HCFR should suffice, right?

Also - I think it was suggested to calibrate the high point using a 109% white point. I assume that means you generate 255/255/255 white over a limited range connection? And the TV accepts that as 109% white? I wonder if this is even possible to do from a PC.

Indeed it seems super complicated compared to when I used to calibrate my PC monitors!

 

[kasakka]

The only real frustration I've had is fairly substantial video sync issues at 120Hz 4k HDR 10bpp. At least for me, it's proven to be highly sensitive to HDMI cable quality and I've had to go through several cables to get to a modicum of stability. And my Samsung still is superior in that regard. Hopefully further improvements in firmware (and a still-better cable if I can find one) will help. One side note: the CX48 syncs to basic text mode / 720x480 signals faster than the Samsungs. This makes working with BIOS, retro hardware etc. far more productive. My Samsung often wouldn't sync signal until I was past the POST messages and into the Windows boot. which was super annoying when I was troubleshooting or something was wrong.

That sounds like purely cable issues. 4K 120 Hz with bells and whistles and HDMI 2.1 put a whole different requirement on cables than short HDMI 2.0. Long HDMI 2.0 tends to be finicky about cable quality as well and I see similar issues with HDMI 2.1. Easily solved by simply getting a "known good" cable. I have had great success with CableMatters "48 Gbps Ultra HDMI 8K" and Club3D CAC-1372 cables.

I don't know what it is about Samsung and slow resolution switching. My CRG9 has very slow resolution switching and if I remember correctly my KS8000 is not that snappy either.

 

[kasakka]

Official press release of the 48" bendable version:

"SEOUL, Korea (Jan. 3, 2021) – LG Display, the world’s leading innovator of display technologies, announced today that it will showcase the world's first 48-inch Bendable Cinematic Sound OLED (CSO) optimized for gaming at CES 2021.

The 48-inch Bendable CSO display utilizes OLED’s advantages as its paper-thin screen bends and unfolds with a curvature radius of up to 1,000R, meaning that it can be made to bend up to a radius of 1,000mm without affecting the function of the display. It can therefore be turned into a flat screen while watching TV and used as a curved screen while gaming. The curved display offers a uniform viewing distance from the middle of the screen to its edge, maximizing the visual immersion that is popular among gamers.

In addition, the company’s CSO technology enables OLED displays to vibrate and make their own sound without the use of any speakers, offering a vivid sense of reality as if the on-screen characters were talking directly to the viewer. The 48-inch Bendable CSO display’s ultra slim film exciter, which is the part that vibrates the display, has been reduced to a thickness of just 0.6mm from 9mm and therefore allows viewers to enjoy a thinner screen as well as highly impressive sound.

OLED technology has recently been gaining attention in the gaming TV market for its superiority, as each pixel emits its own light, offering an infinite contrast ratio. This creates another level of vivid picture quality, along with the seamless experience delivered by a response time of 0.1 milliseconds (ms), a refresh rate of 120Hz per second, and a wide variable refresh rate range from 40Hz to 120Hz.

Moreover, for gamers who view screens for an extended period of time, LG Display’s OLED displays are particularly suitable because they are known for their eye comfort. They have been recognized and certified by leading global certification organizations as emitting low levels of blue light and being flicker-free.

“LG Display’s 48-inch Bendable CSO display is optimized for gaming as it maximizes the use of advanced technology that produces another level in terms of providing an immersive experience. In other words, it offers the very best gaming environment to gamers,” said Dr. Chang-ho Oh, Executive Vice President & Head of the TV Business Unit at LG Display.

LG Display will unveil a teaser film on January 4 to announce its participation in CES 2021 via its official company YouTube site"
Source: http://www.lgdisplay.com/eng/prcenter/newsList#

EDIT: The teaser film was a load of nothing and not worth watching.

 

[gamerk2]

Some feedback from my perspective:
- I had a JU7100 which though a somewhat lower end (and much less common) model was of a similar ilk to the JS9000, so my comments are versus that
- Burn-in can be mitigated if you're at a markedly-under-max-nits-and-Win10-HDR setup and/or you have reliable use of a screen saver.
- That said, if you're using Windows then you must know that "reliable use of xyz" and Windows are often mutually exclusive. Several times my screen saver, set for 1 minute, never went off while I went about doing whatever, and I came back 5 hours later with a static Windows desktop... and absolutely fairly substantial shadowing that stopped my heart
- THAT said, each time it's happened, the retention has disappeared within minutes/hours/by the following morning so I've as yet had no permanent harm. I use 100% brightness and HDR - it's best for my particular use case.
- This has led to a behavioral change... I often wait for the screen saver to take hold (or power down the PC) before stepping away. It's an annoyance, but I'd describe it as on par with moving to an EV: worth it.

Overall, I think it's worth it. The image quality, VRR, 120Hz all more than make up for it. As a pleasant side effect, I had to ditch flanking speakers from my JU7100 due to size but the CX48's integrated speakers are more than a satisfactory replacement. In fact I like the audio setup better than before.

The only real frustration I've had is fairly substantial video sync issues at 120Hz 4k HDR 10bpp. At least for me, it's proven to be highly sensitive to HDMI cable quality and I've had to go through several cables to get to a modicum of stability. And my Samsung still is superior in that regard. Hopefully further improvements in firmware (and a still-better cable if I can find one) will help. One side note: the CX48 syncs to basic text mode / 720x480 signals faster than the Samsungs. This makes working with BIOS, retro hardware etc. far more productive. My Samsung often wouldn't sync signal until I was past the POST messages and into the Windows boot. which was super annoying when I was troubleshooting or something was wrong.

Going from 40" to 48" has been fully manageable. I suppose I'd still prefer 40" if I had my druthers. But this also is more in the "annoyance" category than anything else.

Overall, zero regrets so far.

My advice: Don't rely on the Windows screensaver to save you. Had a similar thing happen to me: Had an app minimized that disabled the screensaver, came back an hour later to find some image retention. Faded over the course of a day, but now I make damn sure to turn off my TV when I walk away.

The bigger problem is just wear over time. Working from home over a year doing a lot of code development has basically ruined my B6; white uniformity is basically gone at this point. It's not really noticeable in games but it's quite clear with uniform backgrounds that panel wear is starting to become an issue after four years of heavy use.

 

[RadXge]

Thanks for the detailed reply!

Just wondering, do I really need to buy CALMAN if just doing a greypoint adjustment like this? HCFR should suffice, right?

Also - I think it was suggested to calibrate the high point using a 109% white point. I assume that means you generate 255/255/255 white over a limited range connection? And the TV accepts that as 109% white? I wonder if this is even possible to do from a PC.

Indeed it seems super complicated compared to when I used to calibrate my PC monitors!

Yes, HCFR should be fine but you will need a pattern generator... don't think that HCFR can "talk" to LG internal pattern generator (which is a great feature BTW)

109% white method is only recommended when you perform an elaborate calibration (which does not seem to be your intention).
More precisely, 109% only makes sense if you plan to calibrate the detailed full gray scale... if you only do 2 points then 100% or 80% is recommended for the upper range... this maximizes the accuracy for the subset of the spectrum that is the most common in real content.

If you use a PC make sure that your black level is set to low in the TV menu and your graphic card's dynamic range is set to limited (16-235).

My view is that sure an elaborate calibration that is done correctly results in great looking post-calibration charts but the difference with a simple calibration may not generally be visually impactful for most consumers. (the good old 80/20 rule).

 

[elvn]

My advice: Don't rely on the Windows screensaver to save you. Had a similar thing happen to me: Had an app minimized that disabled the screensaver, came back an hour later to find some image retention. Faded over the course of a day, but now I make damn sure to turn off my TV when I walk away.

The bigger problem is just wear over time. Working from home over a year doing a lot of code development has basically ruined my B6; white uniformity is basically gone at this point. It's not really noticeable in games but it's quite clear with uniform backgrounds that panel wear is starting to become an issue after four years of heavy use.

Regarding the operating system or 3rd party app (like displayfusion) screensavers and avoiding static content on the OLED in general:

..Some app notifications or app crash ~ "ok" windows etc. can show up above the screensaver layer.
..Your video card could crash leaving video "noise" or slanted color lines etc on the screen, even if that would be a very rare occurrence.
..Your pc could spontaneously reboot and get stuck on a bios screen
..If using multiple monitors, a monitor could drop out of the array connectivity wise (HDMI issues especially) resulting in windows shuffling the wrong content onto the OLED.

I agree with you. Like you said, I just turn my screen off. Even if it shuffles my window placements around when I turn it back on I can use displayfusion's saved window layout hotkey to deal the windows back to their saved positions like playing cards (in my case on a single key-press on my streamdeck mapped to the displayfusion saved window position profile hotkey).

----------------------------------------------

Regarding desktop/app use I'm keeping my OLED on a full black background and using other screen(s) on the side(s) for desktop/apps.

...I also use dark themes in every app that can, and I fine tune a windows high contrast theme to use dark/medium gray backgrounds. Not only for burn in safety concerns on the OLED but because I have big screens on the sides and I like graphics, images, and video windows to look as bright and saturated as they should be without blasting my eyes for reading.
...Another thing I used to do is mod firefox so that it doesn't do a white blank page flash when loading a new web page. That white flash between page loads is very annoying, especially in a dim viewing environment on large screen(s). Afaik chrome has no way to get rid of it with modifications, at least last time I looked. It's been a problem forever. If your dark windows theme changes the backgrounds to dark it shouldl use that color color on the blank page load though, so mine are dark or medium grey which doesn't blast my eyes like white pre-page loading did.
....I have "turn off the lights" browser add-on for both chrome and firefox that allows me to keep a brightness slider on the bottom of each page. I have a color changer add-on on both browsers as well that allows a quick dropdown + 1 click to grey blackground (or color wheel) and contrasted text that it remembers on a per page basis. I put sites like Hardforum on the color changer addon's whitelist since it is dark to start with though. There is also a whitelist for "turn off the lights".

.. As mentioned previously, I use taskbarhider and translucent taskbar apps to hide the taksbar, but now I've also dragged that windows primary monitor taskbar to my non primary (and non-oled) screen and hid it there at the top of that portrait mode screen. I don't have any need for a taskbar on the OLED screen. I can hit Win+S to search, Win+A for the action center. ALT+TAB or CTRL+ATL+TAB (persistent popup) only shows what is open on the active screen thanks to displayfusion.

-------------------------------------------

So I'm playing vids, streams, and games on the oled. I also sometimes open an image link from a browser into it's own window and put it on the oled. I'm going to see if I can streamline that somehow with an addon that would let me right click and re-open images onto the oled full screen automatically.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I think my CX might be starting to lose some brightness, or perhaps it's just window HDR. I re-adjust my white point and brightness every 6 months and now I need to adjust the windows SDR brightness slider to 18 in order to hit 120 nits, whereas before a slider value of 12 was 120 nits. This is with OLED light at 100 running windows HDR.

 

[repoman0]

I think my CX might be starting to lose some brightness, or perhaps it's just window HDR. I re-adjust my white point and brightness every 6 months and now I need to adjust the windows SDR brightness slider to 18 in order to hit 120 nits, whereas before a slider value of 12 was 120 nits. This is with OLED light at 100 running windows HDR.

Do you think you’re running into the reduced brightness in HDR game mode bug from the latest FW? I confirmed it’s real with my i1display, only hits ~500 bits now on my one month old CX.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Do you think you’re running into the reduced brightness in HDR game mode bug from the latest FW? I confirmed it’s real with my i1display, only hits ~500 bits now on my one month old CX.

Is that what the newest firmware does? I was unaware of this. Unfortunately I have no way of downgrading the firmware so I can't do any direct comparisons, hopefully someone here with an older firmware can confirm brightness values in HDR.

 

[repoman0]

Is that what the newest firmware does? I was unaware of this. Unfortunately I have no way of downgrading the firmware so I can't do any direct comparisons, hopefully someone here with an older firmware can confirm brightness values in HDR.

Brightness in other modes is unaffected as far as I’m aware. Try out cinema or something and see what you get.

 

[gamerk2]

I think my CX might be starting to lose some brightness, or perhaps it's just window HDR. I re-adjust my white point and brightness every 6 months and now I need to adjust the windows SDR brightness slider to 18 in order to hit 120 nits, whereas before a slider value of 12 was 120 nits. This is with OLED light at 100 running windows HDR.

Honestly, I wouldn't turn on HDR within Windows, since you are going to wear out the panel a lot faster. I'd also recommend lowering the OLED light to about 30 or so in SDR for much the same reason.

 

[repoman0]

Honestly, I wouldn't turn on HDR within Windows, since you are going to wear out the panel a lot faster. I'd also recommend lowering the OLED light to about 30 or so in SDR for much the same reason.

He’s calibrating to 120 nits using the slider, same result as SDR with OLED light around 36. Well, almost the same, colors in SDR game mode will be much closer to sRGB with the factory cal. Perfectly fine for casual desktop use though.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Honestly, I wouldn't turn on HDR within Windows, since you are going to wear out the panel a lot faster. I'd also recommend lowering the OLED light to about 30 or so in SDR for much the same reason.

I did have the OLED light set to about 30 when running the TV in SDR mode. But now I have a 3090 unlocking 10Bit 444 and an older post from Monstieur mentions that you can now always leave Windows HDR activated as long as you adjust the slider to match your SDR brightness, and of course match your TV's HDR game mode settings to your SDR game mode.

 

[Porter_]

Is that what the newest firmware does? I was unaware of this. Unfortunately I have no way of downgrading the firmware so I can't do any direct comparisons, hopefully someone here with an older firmware can confirm brightness values in HDR.

This is hardly a useful datapoint since I don’t have a colorimeter, but I had to raise the HDR/SDR balance slider after the latest update by LG ‘by eye’ to get back to my perceived brightness before the update.

 

[doox00]

In the latest firmware that was released is there any good reasons to install it? I just got this tv last week and have the prior to this new firmware installed.. it keeps popping up asking me to upgrade but after reading some people are having issues maybe I should wait?

 

[hhkb]

I somehow doubt the Windows SDR to HDR mapping is very good. I would definitely leave windows HDR off, if just to avoid extra bright menus. HDR games and video players will automatically switch to HDR mode in my experience anyways (in fullscreen at least). I guess the one thing you can't get is HDR in youtube.

 

[hhkb]

In the latest firmware that was released is there any good reasons to install it? I just got this tv last week and have the prior to this new firmware installed.. it keeps popping up asking me to upgrade but after reading some people are having issues maybe I should wait?

Yeah the latest FW borks HDR in game mode reducing peak brightness significantly. I've turned off my auto updates for now. If you can manually install 3.11.30 you will be great, that fixes the gsync issues and is basically near perfect in my experience.

 

[hhkb]

Yes, HCFR should be fine but you will need a pattern generator... don't think that HCFR can "talk" to LG internal pattern generator (which is a great feature BTW)

109% white method is only recommended when you perform an elaborate calibration (which does not seem to be your intention).
More precisely, 109% only makes sense if you plan to calibrate the detailed full gray scale... if you only do 2 points then 100% or 80% is recommended for the upper range... this maximizes the accuracy for the subset of the spectrum that is the most common in real content.

If you use a PC make sure that your black level is set to low in the TV menu and your graphic card's dynamic range is set to limited (16-235).

My view is that sure an elaborate calibration that is done correctly results in great looking post-calibration charts but the difference with a simple calibration may not generally be visually impactful for most consumers. (the good old 80/20 rule).

Well I spent a couple hours doing the 20 point calibration approach. I'm not 100% sure I did it all correctly, I'll have to test out some content to see. Below around 50% my numbers started being much larger than what you suggested (+/- 4). At 100% white my screen is too blue for D65 so adjusted that down which is what I think other people have said (LG calibrates to a slightly cooler temp than 6500k at warm).

For HCFR I'm pretty sure you have to leave the GPU to full range to get bit perfect output from the GPU. This is also stated in the HCFR thread a few times. Then put HCFR to 16-235, and set the TV to low blacks. That way when HCFR sends 235,235,235, the GPU should send that as-is. But, could be wrong, there is so much conflicting info on calibrating TVs...

It does seem like CALMAN is more foolproof (as long as you avoid the LUT calibrations), especially since it uses the internally generated test patterns, but I'm not quite ready to fork over $140 for that yet . Next step is to calibrate HDR10 with HCFR similarly.

 

[Monstieur]

This is hardly a useful datapoint since I don’t have a colorimeter, but I had to raise the HDR/SDR balance slider after the latest update by LG ‘by eye’ to get back to my perceived brightness before the update.

The HDR / SDR brightness balance slider outputs absolute values in nits which does not change if the display tracks PQ accurately, which it should in HGIG mode at least. The peak brightness could have changed, but the slider maxes out at 480 nits. What you describe sounds like the entire PQ curve is off.

 

[RadXge]

Well I spent a couple hours doing the 20 point calibration approach. I'm not 100% sure I did it all correctly, I'll have to test out some content to see. Below around 50% my numbers started being much larger than what you suggested (+/- 4). At 100% white my screen is too blue for D65 so adjusted that down which is what I think other people have said (LG calibrates to a slightly cooler temp than 6500k at warm).

For HCFR I'm pretty sure you have to leave the GPU to full range to get bit perfect output from the GPU. This is also stated in the HCFR thread a few times. Then put HCFR to 16-235, and set the TV to low blacks. That way when HCFR sends 235,235,235, the GPU should send that as-is. But, could be wrong, there is so much conflicting info on calibrating TVs...

It does seem like CALMAN is more foolproof (as long as you avoid the LUT calibrations), especially since it uses the internally generated test patterns, but I'm not quite ready to fork over $140 for that yet . Next step is to calibrate HDR10 with HCFR similarly.

I never used HCFR and makes sense to follow the recommendation of the thread.

Large variation between successive points is known to create issues such as banding so important to run test patterns to validate the results with your eyes.
Also note that the i1 is likely inaccurate below 5% and may need more robust settings between 5-20%.
I also have an i1 and I set the exposure in CALMAN to 1.5 seconds between 7.5% to 20%.
For 2.5%, I start with the i1 and fine tune the settings on a best effort basis using my eyes.

For HDR, note that WOLED is unstable at high light output and I suggest to use 2 points for the white balance... the panel is too erratic to be calibrated using 22-points.

 

[MistaSparkul]

So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?

 

[mirkendargen]

So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?

I've had this happen a few times too but I'm not convinced it's the TV. My keyboard isn't even getting power when it happens, so Windows isn't even finishing booting. It seems more like an Nvidia driver issue or something.

 

[kalston]

So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?

I somewhat commonly get no signal with my 3090. I just turn the TV on and off a few times (Quickstart+ has to be disabled) and it ends up working. I also do that when the display is "glitchy" (frequent black flashes or the white lines some people have mentioned).

Another thing that has weirdly worked yesterday is logging into my PC remotely via RDP, that seemed to "wake up" the GPU/TV connection.

Not sure if my cable is the greatest, I'll probably try another at some point. That being said once the connection is established it never glitches for 12h+. So I never have the problem more than once a day (lately it's been every few days/weeks, even).

I'm not using the latest FW (got the .30 for VRR) nor the very latest nvidia drivers right now. Waiting a bit for things to be smoothed out since my current setup is really solid (and I am not playing CP77 yet).

 

[Advil]

I am definitely not getting the flashing or glitching requiring restart of the tv very often anymore. It was worse a couple of weeks ago. I have not changed video cables so one or more of the following likely improved things greatly:

Nvidia Hotfix Driver 460.97
Latest CX Firmware 03.21.09
The modded EDID for 12bit

Whatever the case, I used to have to toggle the power twice most days when I had VRR on to get the handshake to work without glitching. Now... I can't remember if I've had to do it at all in the last week or more. Which is good.

 

[MistaSparkul]

My Quickstart+ is off since it messes with the screenshift setting. I also have the latest nvidia hotfix driver and latest CX firmware. Running a 1m cable. Not sure why I can't get a signal on the first bootup.

 

[BoBoish]

My Quickstart+ is off since it messes with the screenshift setting. I also have the latest nvidia hotfix driver and latest CX firmware. Running a 1m cable. Not sure why I can't get a signal on the first bootup.

I was having the same issues as the rest of you. Discovered you have to turn off "Fast Startup" in Windows 10 - https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup

With HDMI 2.1, it seems to take longer for the handshake to occur. Booted up normally with TV on first try after turning that off (and in the BIOS if you have a similar setting).

 

[gamerk2]

I did have the OLED light set to about 30 when running the TV in SDR mode. But now I have a 3090 unlocking 10Bit 444 and an older post from Monstieur mentions that you can now always leave Windows HDR activated as long as you adjust the slider to match your SDR brightness, and of course match your TV's HDR game mode settings to your SDR game mode.

That does work, but does lessen the impact (and point) of HDR.

There's also the other Windows related HDR nonsense, specifically that even with HDR *always* enabled anything that brings up the Windows OSD causes either my display (currently a B6, since I'm *still* waiting on GPU) or Windows to drop out of HDR. From my experience, HDR support on Windows is a train wreck.

 

[hhkb]

Just some observations I had after doing SDR calibration, that others might be interested in:

1. Contrast at 85 seems like the right choice. 90 contrast seems to clip exactly at the whiter than white range (235+ on limited range), which you generally want visible based on everything I've read on a TV. It's a little weird for me since most PC monitors will never display 235+, since full range isn't capable of it as far as I know. Apparently you also want the headroom of 235-255 not clipping, due to rounding errors/other algorithms in the TV. So yeah, set contrast to 85 based on calibrator recommendations. You can also set it to 90 I suppose if only doing full range always, which will make PC 255 max white the display can do, but this goes against everything I've read and you may lose white detail.
2. Similarly brightness at 50 correctly sets the black level in my test, so leave it at default.
3. rtings settings seem opposite to my experience. The TV is cooler at the WARM2 setting than D65, so the rtings suggestion of "High ((-9)-5-17), Low ((-1)-(-1)-(-1))" doesn't make sense to me (lowering red channel and increasing blue channel substantially). This might be because they set contrast to 91, but I'm not sure what IRE they measured at either. My own measurement shows I need to increase red and lower green.

Overall the main thing calibration fixed for me was a noticeable green tint - which to be honest I had not really noticed until I compared pre to post calibration and it becomes obvious.

 

[hhkb]

Also, not sure anyone cares about this or not, but after a lot of experimentation I found that CM8828 based PCIe sound card with SPDIF in is the best way to get TV sound into your PC. I bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-c...+pci+express+sound+card&qid=1609858549&sr=8-3.

I first tried USB cards with spdif in but none of them worked well - drop outs and crackling all the time.

I have a optical cable going from the TV to the card. Then use voicemeeter to mix it with my PC's sound (you could also just select "listen to device" probably). It's capable up to 24 bit / 192khz on the spdif in. Works great for watching shows directly from the TV, playing console, etc. and having it all routed on your PC e.g. to your audio DAC or whatever. In my case I have various EQ set up on my PC so that's why I wanted to do it this way rather than spend a lot of money on hardware solutions.

 

[MistaSparkul]

That does work, but does lessen the impact (and point) of HDR.

There's also the other Windows related HDR nonsense, specifically that even with HDR *always* enabled anything that brings up the Windows OSD causes either my display (currently a B6, since I'm *still* waiting on GPU) or Windows to drop out of HDR. From my experience, HDR support on Windows is a train wreck.

The SDR brightness slider only impacts SDR content. HDR is unaffected. In fact, you can have an HDR youtube video running in a section of your screen while viewing an SDR one at the same time and the HDR video will have full brightness while the SDR one will be 120 nits.

 

[Monstieur]

 

[MistaSparkul]

About time. The raised blacks have been quite an eyesore for Netflix HDR content.