Do you think you’re running into the reduced brightness in HDR game mode bug from the latest FW? I confirmed it’s real with my i1display, only hits ~500 bits now on my one month old CX.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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Do you think you’re running into the reduced brightness in HDR game mode bug from the latest FW? I confirmed it’s real with my i1display, only hits ~500 bits now on my one month old CX.
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Is that what the newest firmware does? I was unaware of this. Unfortunately I have no way of downgrading the firmware so I can't do any direct comparisons, hopefully someone here with an older firmware can confirm brightness values in HDR.
Brightness in other modes is unaffected as far as I’m aware. Try out cinema or something and see what you get.
Honestly, I wouldn't turn on HDR within Windows, since you are going to wear out the panel a lot faster. I'd also recommend lowering the OLED light to about 30 or so in SDR for much the same reason.
He’s calibrating to 120 nits using the slider, same result as SDR with OLED light around 36. Well, almost the same, colors in SDR game mode will be much closer to sRGB with the factory cal. Perfectly fine for casual desktop use though.
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I did have the OLED light set to about 30 when running the TV in SDR mode. But now I have a 3090 unlocking 10Bit 444 and an older post from Monstieur mentions that you can now always leave Windows HDR activated as long as you adjust the slider to match your SDR brightness, and of course match your TV's HDR game mode settings to your SDR game mode.
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This is hardly a useful datapoint since I don’t have a colorimeter, but I had to raise the HDR/SDR balance slider after the latest update by LG ‘by eye’ to get back to my perceived brightness before the update.
In the latest firmware that was released is there any good reasons to install it? I just got this tv last week and have the prior to this new firmware installed.. it keeps popping up asking me to upgrade but after reading some people are having issues maybe I should wait?
I somehow doubt the Windows SDR to HDR mapping is very good. I would definitely leave windows HDR off, if just to avoid extra bright menus. HDR games and video players will automatically switch to HDR mode in my experience anyways (in fullscreen at least). I guess the one thing you can't get is HDR in youtube.
Yeah the latest FW borks HDR in game mode reducing peak brightness significantly. I've turned off my auto updates for now. If you can manually install 3.11.30 you will be great, that fixes the gsync issues and is basically near perfect in my experience.
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Well I spent a couple hours doing the 20 point calibration approach. I'm not 100% sure I did it all correctly, I'll have to test out some content to see. Below around 50% my numbers started being much larger than what you suggested (+/- 4). At 100% white my screen is too blue for D65 so adjusted that down which is what I think other people have said (LG calibrates to a slightly cooler temp than 6500k at warm).
For HCFR I'm pretty sure you have to leave the GPU to full range to get bit perfect output from the GPU. This is also stated in the HCFR thread a few times. Then put HCFR to 16-235, and set the TV to low blacks. That way when HCFR sends 235,235,235, the GPU should send that as-is. But, could be wrong, there is so much conflicting info on calibrating TVs...
It does seem like CALMAN is more foolproof (as long as you avoid the LUT calibrations), especially since it uses the internally generated test patterns, but I'm not quite ready to fork over $140 for that yet
. Next step is to calibrate HDR10 with HCFR similarly.
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The HDR / SDR brightness balance slider outputs absolute values in nits which does not change if the display tracks PQ accurately, which it should in HGIG mode at least. The peak brightness could have changed, but the slider maxes out at 480 nits. What you describe sounds like the entire PQ curve is off.
Well I spent a couple hours doing the 20 point calibration approach. I'm not 100% sure I did it all correctly, I'll have to test out some content to see. Below around 50% my numbers started being much larger than what you suggested (+/- 4). At 100% white my screen is too blue for D65 so adjusted that down which is what I think other people have said (LG calibrates to a slightly cooler temp than 6500k at warm).
For HCFR I'm pretty sure you have to leave the GPU to full range to get bit perfect output from the GPU. This is also stated in the HCFR thread a few times. Then put HCFR to 16-235, and set the TV to low blacks. That way when HCFR sends 235,235,235, the GPU should send that as-is. But, could be wrong, there is so much conflicting info on calibrating TVs...
It does seem like CALMAN is more foolproof (as long as you avoid the LUT calibrations), especially since it uses the internally generated test patterns, but I'm not quite ready to fork over $140 for that yet
I never used HCFR and makes sense to follow the recommendation of the thread.
Large variation between successive points is known to create issues such as banding so important to run test patterns to validate the results with your eyes.
Also note that the i1 is likely inaccurate below 5% and may need more robust settings between 5-20%.
I also have an i1 and I set the exposure in CALMAN to 1.5 seconds between 7.5% to 20%.
For 2.5%, I start with the i1 and fine tune the settings on a best effort basis using my eyes.
For HDR, note that WOLED is unstable at high light output and I suggest to use 2 points for the white balance... the panel is too erratic to be calibrated using 22-points.
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So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?
mirkendargen
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I've had this happen a few times too but I'm not convinced it's the TV. My keyboard isn't even getting power when it happens, so Windows isn't even finishing booting. It seems more like an Nvidia driver issue or something.
I somewhat commonly get no signal with my 3090. I just turn the TV on and off a few times (Quickstart+ has to be disabled) and it ends up working. I also do that when the display is "glitchy" (frequent black flashes or the white lines some people have mentioned).
Another thing that has weirdly worked yesterday is logging into my PC remotely via RDP, that seemed to "wake up" the GPU/TV connection.
Not sure if my cable is the greatest, I'll probably try another at some point. That being said once the connection is established it never glitches for 12h+. So I never have the problem more than once a day (lately it's been every few days/weeks, even).
I'm not using the latest FW (got the .30 for VRR) nor the very latest nvidia drivers right now. Waiting a bit for things to be smoothed out since my current setup is really solid (and I am not playing CP77 yet).
I am definitely not getting the flashing or glitching requiring restart of the tv very often anymore. It was worse a couple of weeks ago. I have not changed video cables so one or more of the following likely improved things greatly:
Nvidia Hotfix Driver 460.97
Latest CX Firmware 03.21.09
The modded EDID for 12bit
Whatever the case, I used to have to toggle the power twice most days when I had VRR on to get the handshake to work without glitching. Now... I can't remember if I've had to do it at all in the last week or more. Which is good.
Nvidia Hotfix Driver 460.97
Latest CX Firmware 03.21.09
The modded EDID for 12bit
Whatever the case, I used to have to toggle the power twice most days when I had VRR on to get the handshake to work without glitching. Now... I can't remember if I've had to do it at all in the last week or more. Which is good.
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My Quickstart+ is off since it messes with the screenshift setting. I also have the latest nvidia hotfix driver and latest CX firmware. Running a 1m cable. Not sure why I can't get a signal on the first bootup.
I was having the same issues as the rest of you. Discovered you have to turn off "Fast Startup" in Windows 10 - https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup
With HDMI 2.1, it seems to take longer for the handshake to occur. Booted up normally with TV on first try after turning that off (and in the BIOS if you have a similar setting).
That does work, but does lessen the impact (and point) of HDR.
There's also the other Windows related HDR nonsense, specifically that even with HDR *always* enabled anything that brings up the Windows OSD causes either my display (currently a B6, since I'm *still* waiting on GPU) or Windows to drop out of HDR. From my experience, HDR support on Windows is a train wreck.
Just some observations I had after doing SDR calibration, that others might be interested in:
1. Contrast at 85 seems like the right choice. 90 contrast seems to clip exactly at the whiter than white range (235+ on limited range), which you generally want visible based on everything I've read on a TV. It's a little weird for me since most PC monitors will never display 235+, since full range isn't capable of it as far as I know. Apparently you also want the headroom of 235-255 not clipping, due to rounding errors/other algorithms in the TV. So yeah, set contrast to 85 based on calibrator recommendations. You can also set it to 90 I suppose if only doing full range always, which will make PC 255 max white the display can do, but this goes against everything I've read and you may lose white detail.
2. Similarly brightness at 50 correctly sets the black level in my test, so leave it at default.
3. rtings settings seem opposite to my experience. The TV is cooler at the WARM2 setting than D65, so the rtings suggestion of "High ((-9)-5-17), Low ((-1)-(-1)-(-1))" doesn't make sense to me (lowering red channel and increasing blue channel substantially). This might be because they set contrast to 91, but I'm not sure what IRE they measured at either. My own measurement shows I need to increase red and lower green.
Overall the main thing calibration fixed for me was a noticeable green tint - which to be honest I had not really noticed until I compared pre to post calibration and it becomes obvious.
1. Contrast at 85 seems like the right choice. 90 contrast seems to clip exactly at the whiter than white range (235+ on limited range), which you generally want visible based on everything I've read on a TV. It's a little weird for me since most PC monitors will never display 235+, since full range isn't capable of it as far as I know. Apparently you also want the headroom of 235-255 not clipping, due to rounding errors/other algorithms in the TV. So yeah, set contrast to 85 based on calibrator recommendations. You can also set it to 90 I suppose if only doing full range always, which will make PC 255 max white the display can do, but this goes against everything I've read and you may lose white detail.
2. Similarly brightness at 50 correctly sets the black level in my test, so leave it at default.
3. rtings settings seem opposite to my experience. The TV is cooler at the WARM2 setting than D65, so the rtings suggestion of "High ((-9)-5-17), Low ((-1)-(-1)-(-1))" doesn't make sense to me (lowering red channel and increasing blue channel substantially). This might be because they set contrast to 91, but I'm not sure what IRE they measured at either. My own measurement shows I need to increase red and lower green.
Overall the main thing calibration fixed for me was a noticeable green tint - which to be honest I had not really noticed until I compared pre to post calibration and it becomes obvious.
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Also, not sure anyone cares about this or not, but after a lot of experimentation I found that CM8828 based PCIe sound card with SPDIF in is the best way to get TV sound into your PC. I bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-c...+pci+express+sound+card&qid=1609858549&sr=8-3.
I first tried USB cards with spdif in but none of them worked well - drop outs and crackling all the time.
I have a optical cable going from the TV to the card. Then use voicemeeter to mix it with my PC's sound (you could also just select "listen to device" probably). It's capable up to 24 bit / 192khz on the spdif in. Works great for watching shows directly from the TV, playing console, etc. and having it all routed on your PC e.g. to your audio DAC or whatever. In my case I have various EQ set up on my PC so that's why I wanted to do it this way rather than spend a lot of money on hardware solutions.
I first tried USB cards with spdif in but none of them worked well - drop outs and crackling all the time.
I have a optical cable going from the TV to the card. Then use voicemeeter to mix it with my PC's sound (you could also just select "listen to device" probably). It's capable up to 24 bit / 192khz on the spdif in. Works great for watching shows directly from the TV, playing console, etc. and having it all routed on your PC e.g. to your audio DAC or whatever. In my case I have various EQ set up on my PC so that's why I wanted to do it this way rather than spend a lot of money on hardware solutions.
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The SDR brightness slider only impacts SDR content. HDR is unaffected. In fact, you can have an HDR youtube video running in a section of your screen while viewing an SDR one at the same time and the HDR video will have full brightness while the SDR one will be 120 nits.
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I’m going to sound like a bit of a homer here:
- raised black levels improved
- HDR Game mode luminance reduced by ~100 nits, but is probably imperceptible in practice to most people
- LG acknowledged the luminance issue and is working on a fix, while maintaining the improvements of the latest firmware
That’s a win in my book. I haven’t really been this ‘involved’ with a screen in all my years of gaming (i.e keeping up with news and getting excited for firmware updates, etc.) but I can’t think of a more responsive screen manufacturer than LG has been with the CX.
equinox654
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I hear you. It's turning me into a display snob though. I turn my nose up to all the peasants with lcds now and never miss an opportunity to tell people how beautiful the latest game I've viewed on it is.
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Dolby Vision
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.... That's good news since DV is the only dynamic tone mapping built into HDR mastered video that works on the CX I think, since HDR10+ 's mastered dynamic tone mapping is not supported by LG as it's a competitor. So up until now we could get HDR10 (non plus) and let it be static tone mapped in relation to the display (which still looks great) - but no extra english ("spin") on a per scene basis using dolby vision content without raising the blacks until now. Raised blacks throughout mostly negated the whole idea of having mastered per scene tone mapping tweaked in the first place imo.
I've been keeping HDR mode on and using the windows HDR color setting's brightness slider to drop it down a lot to match the SDR levels of my side monitors when HDR metadata isn't being fed to the display. That part works great.
However....
HDR metadata kicking in to "active HDR" with the HDR overlay popping up is kind of like having a game run fullscreen (not windowed+full). Dropping in and out of it is pretty clunky like alt-tabbing a full screen game can be - especially with multiple monitors in an array. It's blinky at times on videos, popping in and out off full HDR range when you mouse over and make each screen active, pop up the time slider/scrubber on a vid which happens automatically on mousing over it by default, or pop up the volume overlay when changing or muting the master volume... but it's especially bad on HDR games running full screen while using multiple monitors as desktop real-estate running apps.
That is how it should be but unlike the youtube HDR scenario, unfortunately games like Jedi Fallen Order have to be full screen to enable HDR so I can't use windowed+full mode or windowed mode if I want to use HDR. That makes paging off of the game or alt-tabbing a total mess of long blank screen pauses, blinking screens, and buggy-ness. HDR movie playback (mpc-hc in my case) also flips the HDR logo/active-ness on and off on when mousing to different displays when they become the active display, or when mousing back over to the video screen causing the time slider to pop up. Using volume knobs or keys to change or mute the master windows volume makes a win10 volume overlay pop up doing the same clunky back and forth transitioning too. I've mapped my video player's volume control and jedi fallen order's volume control to their own dedicated midi knobs now (on a relatively cheap usb midi board) so at least I don't have to worry about the master volume overlay so much anymore. I could also try dedicating some streamdeck keys to controlling the video time slider's hotkeys for jump fwd/back and pause/play without having the time scrubber overlay popping up I guess but the visual feedback of the slider position is nice to have.
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I'm probably going to move my other budget amd rig to my gaming pc room and put it on another set of hdmi inputs on my side monitors for while I'm playing games, with a different keyboard on my slide out tray below my main peripherals. I've been using my laptop on the side for the time being, attached to the keyboard and thumb-ball mouse below my main peripherals.
It would be great if the active HDR metadata mode with the HDR logo transition shuffle didn't happen at all and was seamless but that's not the case. It's not the case on the CX itself so I don't think it makes any difference if all three displays have HDR enabled or not. The only way I can think that it wouldn't pop back and forth is if HDR content/metadata was actively running on all three displays all of the time so that it would never downshift and upshift back and forth out of full HDR range.
------------------------
.... That's good news since DV is the only dynamic tone mapping built into HDR mastered video that works on the CX I think, since HDR10+ 's mastered dynamic tone mapping is not supported by LG as it's a competitor. So up until now we could get HDR10 (non plus) and let it be static tone mapped in relation to the display (which still looks great) - but no extra english ("spin") on a per scene basis using dolby vision content without raising the blacks until now. Raised blacks throughout mostly negated the whole idea of having mastered per scene tone mapping tweaked in the first place imo.
I've been keeping HDR mode on and using the windows HDR color setting's brightness slider to drop it down a lot to match the SDR levels of my side monitors when HDR metadata isn't being fed to the display. That part works great.
However....
HDR metadata kicking in to "active HDR" with the HDR overlay popping up is kind of like having a game run fullscreen (not windowed+full). Dropping in and out of it is pretty clunky like alt-tabbing a full screen game can be - especially with multiple monitors in an array. It's blinky at times on videos, popping in and out off full HDR range when you mouse over and make each screen active, pop up the time slider/scrubber on a vid which happens automatically on mousing over it by default, or pop up the volume overlay when changing or muting the master volume... but it's especially bad on HDR games running full screen while using multiple monitors as desktop real-estate running apps.
That is how it should be but unlike the youtube HDR scenario, unfortunately games like Jedi Fallen Order have to be full screen to enable HDR so I can't use windowed+full mode or windowed mode if I want to use HDR. That makes paging off of the game or alt-tabbing a total mess of long blank screen pauses, blinking screens, and buggy-ness. HDR movie playback (mpc-hc in my case) also flips the HDR logo/active-ness on and off on when mousing to different displays when they become the active display, or when mousing back over to the video screen causing the time slider to pop up. Using volume knobs or keys to change or mute the master windows volume makes a win10 volume overlay pop up doing the same clunky back and forth transitioning too. I've mapped my video player's volume control and jedi fallen order's volume control to their own dedicated midi knobs now (on a relatively cheap usb midi board) so at least I don't have to worry about the master volume overlay so much anymore. I could also try dedicating some streamdeck keys to controlling the video time slider's hotkeys for jump fwd/back and pause/play without having the time scrubber overlay popping up I guess but the visual feedback of the slider position is nice to have.
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I'm probably going to move my other budget amd rig to my gaming pc room and put it on another set of hdmi inputs on my side monitors for while I'm playing games, with a different keyboard on my slide out tray below my main peripherals. I've been using my laptop on the side for the time being, attached to the keyboard and thumb-ball mouse below my main peripherals.
It would be great if the active HDR metadata mode with the HDR logo transition shuffle didn't happen at all and was seamless but that's not the case. It's not the case on the CX itself so I don't think it makes any difference if all three displays have HDR enabled or not. The only way I can think that it wouldn't pop back and forth is if HDR content/metadata was actively running on all three displays all of the time so that it would never downshift and upshift back and forth out of full HDR range.
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Yes games unfortunately do not work that way as far as I can tell. Not really an issue for me since I play all my games in exclusive fullscreen and no longer have a secondary display that I want to switch over to often (I ditched my X27 from my setup once I was able to get 120Hz 444 on the CX).
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It sounds like you're using fullscreen exclusive mode, or changing refreshing rates between 120 Hz and 119.8 Hz or something. I don't have any display resets with Alt + Tab or overlays in games, or in MPC-BE + madVR, unless I specifically use exclusive mode.
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All of my monitors are at 60hz since I don't have a 3000 series gpu yet and I'm not using a displayport adapter.
There are a lot of threads about the volume overlay dropping out of hdr active mode as well as the time slider popup doing it when mousing over your video player so I'm not alone in this.
Jedi Fallen order requires fullscreen exclusive mode for HDR to be an option. It will not run HDR in windowed of windowed+full modes, the HDR on/off slider in it's game menus won't even show up with those modes active. That's the only HDR PC game I've tried so far but I could try shadow of war at some point since I still have it installed.
I'll experiment some more. Maybe it's dropping out of HDR mode for some reason in the settings so popping on and off as if the HDR slider isn't on at all. That would help with the video playback but it still won't change the fullscreen exclusive requirement for HDR in some games. Jedi Fallen Order looks great in HDR but as I said it requires fullscreen exclusive so I wouldn't be surprised if some other games did too. I'll have to look into it.
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edit: I messed around looking at enabling and disabling hdr on my side monitors and seemed to get the "always on" HDR to stick on the CX without mode changing so it seems good now. Thanks. It was annoying before.
As it turns out then, this is probably from HDR mode not being set to on all of the time for these complaints I mentioned.
I'll try jedi next but the fullscreen alt tabbing will still be sloppy I'm guessing - just not quite AS sloppy now without the HDR mode switching going on. I'm curious to find out if any other PC HDR games require full screen exclusive for HDR mode. If I could run windowed+full I'd be in great shape now I think but not on that game from what I've read.
There are a lot of threads about the volume overlay dropping out of hdr active mode as well as the time slider popup doing it when mousing over your video player so I'm not alone in this.
Jedi Fallen order requires fullscreen exclusive mode for HDR to be an option. It will not run HDR in windowed of windowed+full modes, the HDR on/off slider in it's game menus won't even show up with those modes active. That's the only HDR PC game I've tried so far but I could try shadow of war at some point since I still have it installed.
I'll experiment some more. Maybe it's dropping out of HDR mode for some reason in the settings so popping on and off as if the HDR slider isn't on at all. That would help with the video playback but it still won't change the fullscreen exclusive requirement for HDR in some games. Jedi Fallen Order looks great in HDR but as I said it requires fullscreen exclusive so I wouldn't be surprised if some other games did too. I'll have to look into it.
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edit: I messed around looking at enabling and disabling hdr on my side monitors and seemed to get the "always on" HDR to stick on the CX without mode changing so it seems good now. Thanks. It was annoying before.
As it turns out then, this is probably from HDR mode not being set to on all of the time for these complaints I mentioned.
Which means that is yet another reason for everyone to consider running windows 10 HDR mode on all of the time(editing the brightness slider) in order to avoid that happening... like I had intended all along but I ran into a snag between updates and settings on different displays.
I'll try jedi next but the fullscreen alt tabbing will still be sloppy I'm guessing - just not quite AS sloppy now without the HDR mode switching going on. I'm curious to find out if any other PC HDR games require full screen exclusive for HDR mode. If I could run windowed+full I'd be in great shape now I think but not on that game from what I've read.
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Just about every PC HDR game that I have played has required Exclusive Fullscreen.
phinix
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OK, my CX48 just arrived
For some reason I cannot find Total on time on it (I'm in UK, so probably European versions don't have it?)
I know we had here a list of settings to switch when you start using this tv - where is it, cannot find it now...
Another question - I had pixel shift on and now when I turned it off whole view is not centred - picture comes out on all edges - how can I re-center it?
For some reason I cannot find Total on time on it (I'm in UK, so probably European versions don't have it?)
I know we had here a list of settings to switch when you start using this tv - where is it, cannot find it now...
Another question - I had pixel shift on and now when I turned it off whole view is not centred - picture comes out on all edges - how can I re-center it?
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Settings > Support > TV Information > Total Power On TimeOK, my CX48 just arrived
For some reason I cannot find Total on time on it (I'm in UK, so probably European versions don't have it?)
I know we had here a list of settings to switch when you start using this tv - where is it, cannot find it now...
Another question - I had pixel shift on and now when I turned it off whole view is not centred - picture comes out on all edges - how can I re-center it?
Apparently not available on EU models, that field just doesn't exist in that menu. Service menu lets you set the region of the TV too so I guess this is part of those differences.
phinix
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Yeah, EU dont have it apparently....
How can I get 120hz? I only have 60.
Got RTX3070, proper HDMI 2.1 cable - what was the settings that turns it on?
How can I get 120hz? I only have 60.
Got RTX3070, proper HDMI 2.1 cable - what was the settings that turns it on?
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Did you scroll down the resolution list in Windows and select the 3840x2160 under the “PC” heading?Yeah, EU dont have it apparently....
How can I get 120hz? I only have 60.
Got RTX3070, proper HDMI 2.1 cable - what was the settings that turns it on?
phinix
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Aaah, yep, just did... Woooooooow......
What are the settings I should set it up for PC monitor?
There was a list somewhere I cannot find it now.
One of the settings - I did power saving off and OLED light to 50 - is it too much for PC use (web browsing) and would speed up burnin?
Aaah, yep, just did... Woooooooow......
What are the settings I should set it up for PC monitor?
There was a list somewhere I cannot find it now.
One of the settings - I did power saving off and OLED light to 50 - is it too much for PC use (web browsing) and would speed up burnin?
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/ixhy39/lg_cx_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/ is pretty decent as a reference.
OLED light is whatever your preference, however imo 50 is way too bright. 20-40 is good, with ~35 being 120 nits I think which is the standard bright room target. I'm using 28 atm (100 nits), but I sometimes lower it all the way to 20 in the evening. If you set this too high it will cause ABL to trigger more often. It's also more likely to have burn in/image retention with high OLED light.
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Figured that might be pretty standard. Maybe that will change someday. We used to only be able to play with g-sync in full screen exclusive at one point too.
ALT-Tab 'ing out of "Jedi: Fallen Order" is still a mess, with the HDR mode logo overlay popping up and all three screens (gaming OLED + 2 desktop/app screens) blanking out and flashing back on, also missing app windows at first. This transition takes several seconds. I haven't timed it but I'm guessing ~10 seconds.
That means while HDR gaming I won't be able to use my other screens to type in discord or other messaging apps, active forums, look something up on a side web browser (character builds, etc in some games), answer notifications, or even simply doing screenshots or clips of a game or streaming controls outside of anything I can map to hotkeys/streamdeck.
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I can live with it for how great HDR looks on some games...
.....but I'm definitely going to have to use my laptop on the side (which I've been doing for now) or connect budget amd rig on my side monitor's other hdmi inputs for while I'm dug into a HDR game. That still won't help with managing anything on the gaming pc itself while in a HDR game but I suppose I could eventually set up the other rig for streaming so that would allow me to take screenshots and clips at least and manage some things from there while being able to do anything else I'd normally do un-tethered on a pc (but without the horsepower of my gaming rig). There would probably still be some issues like mapping sound in/out between a 2nd rig's sound apps e.g. music and team voice apps or a game's built in team voice functionality(on the gaming rig) to my good headphones for example while still getting the game sound. That and the fact that I would be using a 2nd keyboard and thumb ball mouse on the keyboard tray I otherwise never use since I keep all my peripherals on the top desk surface. I'd rather do that than messing with with kvm switching with this setup.
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I found I could remote desktop to 2 out of the three screens potentially, so for the most part I'd just be limiting myself to a smaller non mech keyboard and a thumb-ball mouse while in game but only if this would work to allow me to actively use the content on my gaming rig's side screens without dumping the HDR game to alt-tab in effect or otherwise dropping HDR in a clunky transition on the main rig's primary gaming screen (that I wouldn't be RDP'ing). I don't know if that is possible or not.
https://www.hanselman.com/blog/how-...-rdp-with-just-some-of-your-multiple-monitors
So what I need to find out is: Can I run a HDR game on the gaming rig center screen (LG CX) without the RDP user being active on the side screens making the HDR game dump out of fullscreen exclusive mode.
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