LG 48CX

PHeeNIxx said:
I'm still using that desk as well! Good old jerker. The 48" fits perfectly in the 'frame' made with the desk and the top shelf :)
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Ha that's awesome! I didn't realize there was such a following for the IKEA Jerker series. Those side swivel shelves are worth their weight in gold.
 
NukeDukem said:
Grats, I love my Icon. A noblechair and a CX for Christmas, what's not to love about that? 🎄
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Thanks
Got a ps5 too 🎄
But yeah I have been complaining since I got the CX that I wished I had room for a recliner in our office,because I like to kick back when I play things with a controller and my wife remembered that and sent me a bunch of amazon links for $150-$180 gaming chairs that recline, so I sent her back the link for the noblechair and told her I would cover a couple of hundred of it if she ordered it... Still cost me a bit, but not bad. Now I need to find a foot stool.
 
Found one, also got a solid deal at a bit over 12”” with tax.

have some work to do though.
Have to raise the wall mount on my 55” C6, wall mount the new 48” CX under it.

Upgrading from my acre predator x 34 monitor.
 
sharknice said:
Ideally you want your arms slightly angled from your sides and your forearms to be parallel with the ground resting on your keyboard and mouse. Your legs should also be parallel with the ground and the surface should barely be above them. This minimizes strain on your wrists.
You want your eyes to line up with the top of your screen so you only need to look down which minimizes stress to your neck and eyes.

I have a custom desk with separate motorized height adjustments for the monitors and keybard/mouse surface and plenty of depth to move the screens as far back as I want so I could play around with it to get perfect ergonomics.

This is what I've found to be ideal positioning ergonomically for me. I'm 6'2":

30" distance from my eyes to the screen - I can comfortably read everything with 100% scaling. I use it like a grid of four 24" 1080p screens for normal PC use and a large field of view big screen for gaming.

27.5" height keyboard/mouse surface - my elbows form a 90 degree angle and my forearms are parallel with the ground
21.5" height screen surface using the stand it came with - my eyes line up with the top of the screen which ends up around 47"

This puts the screen surface 6 inches below the keyboard/mouse surface.
This is the complete opposite of what a typical desk is designed for where the screen surface is higher than the keyboard and mouse. You can't use a normal desk if you want ideal ergonomics with a screen this large. If you can't get a new desk/stand/etc you'll just have to make the best out of what you've got, but I definitely recommend going the extra step and getting everything perfectly setup if you're already spending $1500 on the screen plus whatever hardware you needed to drive it.

This is what mine looks like:

View attachment 305625
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I like how you have the arms of your chair in line with the top of the desk surface to the peripherals. That is a key facet. For me being broad-shouldered I like having a chair with inward/outward adjustment on the arms (not V tilting) as well as up and down. That allows me to sit in a full "throne style" seating position. Full head/neck support is also great for tilting a few degrees to change that invisible dotted line between your eyeballs and your monitor a little higher. It's also relaxing. Foot support helps too with either a cross board on the bottom of the desk built in or a 3rd party foot rest.

While not exact in types of desks , chair etc., your setup is still reminiscent of mine. Instead of two monitors stacked on each side I have a tall 43" 4k in portrait mode on each side. Instead of sinking the monitors below the desk I keep them directly on the desk and slightly tilt my chair.

It only takes a very small tilt to bring my center line up slightly across ~ 42" distance from the OLED and ~ 47" from the side screens. I'm staring dead center at the center 1/3 of the oled so that is perfect for me. On the side portrait monitors I'm staring at the second 1/4 up on the side monitors when I look over to either of them. So I can foucs on about 1/2 of each side monitor at a time. That means focusing on the top 1/2, the bottom half, or the.. "middle half" (with 1/4 top and bottom outside of my focal view). It works out well at this distance , logically setting up windows by priority placement and sizing on the side monitors. I use displayfusion window placements in a saved hotkeyed overall window placement profile as well as individual window/app launch - placement - min/restore function for each of my most used apps which each are tied to a single hotkey-button per app on my streamdeck.
 
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sharknice said:
Ideally you want your arms slightly angled from your sides and your forearms to be parallel with the ground resting on your keyboard and mouse. Your legs should also be parallel with the ground and the surface should barely be above them. This minimizes strain on your wrists.
You want your eyes to line up with the top of your screen so you only need to look down which minimizes stress to your neck and eyes.

I have a custom desk with separate motorized height adjustments for the monitors and keybard/mouse surface and plenty of depth to move the screens as far back as I want so I could play around with it to get perfect ergonomics.

This is what I've found to be ideal positioning ergonomically for me. I'm 6'2":

30" distance from my eyes to the screen - I can comfortably read everything with 100% scaling. I use it like a grid of four 24" 1080p screens for normal PC use and a large field of view big screen for gaming.

27.5" height keyboard/mouse surface - my elbows form a 90 degree angle and my forearms are parallel with the ground
21.5" height screen surface using the stand it came with - my eyes line up with the top of the screen which ends up around 47"

This puts the screen surface 6 inches below the keyboard/mouse surface.
This is the complete opposite of what a typical desk is designed for where the screen surface is higher than the keyboard and mouse. You can't use a normal desk if you want ideal ergonomics with a screen this large. If you can't get a new desk/stand/etc you'll just have to make the best out of what you've got, but I definitely recommend going the extra step and getting everything perfectly setup if you're already spending $1500 on the screen plus whatever hardware you needed to drive it.

This is what mine looks like:

View attachment 305625
Click to expand...
Lol! I think you should add a 6th monitor on top of the tv. Great set up by the way...
 
I've considered it before.... with a 43" uw or two 24" above.. (5 and 6 just being as split 43" window wise) iCy3VtQ.png
 
The problem with screens above is it hurts your neck to look at them, even if it's just something you're glancing at once and a while it becomes a pain in the neck and you just don't want to use them. Also they become kind of distracting while gaming whereas the ones to the side are on the outer edge of your peripheral vision.
I would wrap additional screens around further to the sides before I went above.
 
Coming from years of sitting right up against a wall at a screen more or less I can see your point of view (no pun intended) in that scenario. Like sit up near a wall reading a newspaper and then try to look above your head at a clock up high on the wall kind of thing.. However it really depends how far away you are and if you have a full head/neck rest chair on a slight angle so that you can just tilt your eyes up. I can easily look up at the gap above my 48" cx right now without moving my neck. It's probably 45 degrees higher than me looking straight ahead. But to each their own. I'd prob just put readouts up there like rainmeter widgets connected to HW64 data and maybe chat app windows (irc, sms 3rd party, discord, myphone app) and such if I ever bothered mounting screen(s) up there in the first place. My side monitors are already that tall anyway in portrait mode as you can see from the schematic - so I'm looking up at the top 1/3 of those two screens the same way.

Incidentally regarding multiple monitors, it can be a pain to page off of a HDR game since I think the one I've played so far, Jedi Fallen Order, requires you to play it full screen rather than windowed+full in order for HDR to be active. It's pretty clunky to alt tab out of HDR which makes the OLED blink a few times and everything get laggy on all of the displays for a few seconds. I can turn HDR on my fake HDR side monitors but unless I was running HDR material I don't think it would be activated. Maybe if all three had activated HDR mode it would work cleaner. HDR movie playback doesn't have that disable/enable alt-tab issue when moving off of the OLED but fullscreen HDR mode active games like "Jedi:Fallen Order" do.
 
Hooked and and man this is a biggie lmao.

Impressed with my 2080ti so far with it, played a Bit of WoW looks amazing on this.

Once I wall mount it will help push it back some.

Paid 1166 for it plus tax, happy with it so far.

Hopefully can sell off my Acer Predator x 34 now.
 
Ashenor said:
Hooked and and man this is a biggie lmao.

Impressed with my 2080ti so far with it, played a Bit of WoW looks amazing on this.

Once I wall mount it will help push it back some.

Paid 1166 for it plus tax, happy with it so far.

Hopefully can sell off my Acer Predator x 34 now.
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Damn! How did you get it so cheap?
 
Has anybody tried the 49” LG NANO85? It has HDMI 2.1 for 4K@120Hz, an IPS panel (like most gaming monitors) with no burn-in problem, and it’s only $499 at Best Buy.
 
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Scrith said:
Has anybody tried the 49” LG NANO85? It has HDMI 2.1 for 4K@120Hz, an IPS panel (like most gaming monitors) with no burn-in problem, and it’s only $499 at Best Buy.
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Lol seriously? Nano IPS has a tough time just competing with VA panels, it's not even a contest against an OLED. Only people with serious delusions will believe that a Nano IPS can compete against OLED :ROFLMAO:

 
Scrith said:
Yeah, I’m sure it’s not as nice as an OLED, but it has no burn-in issues and it is 1/3 the price.
MistaSparkul said:
Lol seriously? Nano IPS has a tough time just competing with VA panels, it's not even a contest against an OLED. Only people with serious delusions will believe that a Nano IPS can compete against OLED :ROFLMAO:I
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That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues. :)
 
For those of you that work for large companies that may do business with LG, they have now listed the 48CX on their partner mall website. Price is 1275 plus tax. Looks like it is sold out in the east region though.
 
To prevent burn in, I'm using Steam Wallpaper Engine a LOT, hiding task bar, no icons and turning off when I'm not using.... is this good enough from a maintenance perspective? Is turning off a bad thing? Thanks!
 
Cisco78 said:
To prevent burn in, I'm using Steam Wallpaper Engine a LOT, hiding task bar, no icons and turning off when I'm not using.... is this good enough from a maintenance perspective? Is turning off a bad thing? Thanks!
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I rather use pure black wallpaper, with some combination of dark broser mode. Less hours on OLED pixels = better lifetime.
 
Yea if you want to make oled last longer black (aka pixels turned off) is the actual way to go. That and a reasonable OLED light setting, of course.
 
b1gLoRD said:
I rather use pure black wallpaper, with some combination of dark broser mode. Less hours on OLED pixels = better lifetime.
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Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.
kalston said:
Yea if you want to make oled last longer black (aka pixels turned off) is the actual way to go. That and a reasonable OLED light setting, of course.
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What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
 
I use all black wallpaper so the oled is pretty much off on a blank screen like kalston said.

I use transluscent taskbar app (from github or microsoft store) to make the taskbar clear. I also use taskbarhider app which allows me to assign a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. Using displayfusion taskbars on my other monitors which include windows startmenu/button, system tray, animated mouseover thumbnails of apps on the taskbar etc. I don't need to use a taskbar on the primary LG CX gaming/media monitor anymore. So I use my taskbarhider app's hotkey to just lock the regular windows taskbar away on the primary monitor 99% of the time. Displayfusion also lets you keep the ALT-TAB or CTRL-ALT-TAB (persistent popup) thumbnails isolated to whatever apps are open on that particular monitor which makes it easy to swap between what app is focused on that way instead of using taskbars. It also allows you to customize the size of the thumbnails that pop up while tabbing if you want to.

The main things that still pop up on the LG CX are the master volume overlay and the system notifications - but I went into the system notifications menu (Win + A , then click "manage notifications" to open the notifications config window) and turned most of the notifications off. I might look for a 3rd part app for that if there are any to see if I can make them visible on my other screen(s).

I tried an app to hide the windows 10 volume overlay when I change the master volume but I haven't found a reliable way to get rid of that yet.

Other than that, some installers and updates and such pop onto the primary but I can drag them off of it to another monitor. I wouldn't walk away from my screen for too long counting on the black wallpaper or even a screensaver because crashed apps and update windows and such take top level and would be sitting there static on the primary monitor.

I leave HDR on/active at 100 on the primary (LG CX OLED) and just use the windows HDR slider to bring it down until right click menus and general text and backgrounds look normal/SDR again. The LG OLEDs already have to tone map HDR10 (1000nit) content down to 800 or whatever their peak is. HDR should be left at it's max for movies and games and then just use the windows HDR brightness slider to bring it down a lot (to what looks like SDR levels) for desktop when outside of launched HDR games and UHD HDR movies etc (where the HDR overlay flag shows up on launch/start).


Edit: I might be able to unlock and drag the primary taskbar to a secondary monitor, then hide it, so that the notifications appear where that bar is hidden.
 
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elvn said:
I use all black wallpaper so the oled is pretty much off on a blank screen like kalston said.

I use transluscent taskbar app (from github or microsoft store) to make the taskbar clear. I also use taskbarhider app which allows me to assign a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. Using displayfusion taskbars on my other monitors which include windows startmenu/button, system tray, animated mouseover thumbnails of apps on the taskbar etc. I don't need to use a taskbar on the primary LG CX gaming/media monitor anymore. So I use my taskbarhider app's hotkey to just lock the regular windows taskbar away on the primary monitor 99% of the time. Displayfusion also lets you keep the ALT-TAB or CTRL-ALT-TAB (persistent popup) thumbnails isolated to whatever apps are open on that particular monitor which makes it easy to swap between what app is focused on that way instead of using taskbars. It also allows you to customize the size of the thumbnails that pop up while tabbing if you want to.

The main things that still pop up on the LG CX are the master volume overlay and the system notifications - but I went into the system notifications menu (Win + A , then click "manage notifications" to open the notifications config window) and turned most of the notifications off. I might look for a 3rd part app for that if there are any to see if I can make them visible on my other screen(s).

I tried an app to hide the windows 10 volume overlay when I change the master volume but I haven't found a reliable way to get rid of that yet.

Other than that, some installers and updates and such pop onto the primary but I can drag them off of it to another monitor. I wouldn't walk away from my screen for too long counting on the black wallpaper or even a screensaver because crashed apps and update windows and such take top level and would be sitting there static on the primary monitor.

I leave HDR on/active at 100 on the primary (LG CX OLED) and just use the windows HDR slider to bring it down until right click menus and general text and backgrounds look normal/SDR again. The LG OLEDs already have to tone map HDR10 (1000nit) content down to 800 or whatever their peak is. HDR should be left at it's max for movies and games and then just use the windows HDR brightness slider to bring it down a lot (to what looks like SDR levels) for desktop when outside of launched HDR games and UHD HDR movies etc (where the HDR overlay flag shows up on launch/start).
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Huge help thanks!
 
Cisco78 said:
Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.

What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
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It depends on room lightning and I'm only talking SDR (it needs to stay at 100 in HDR and you use the Windows slider like elvn said, in a dark room I need it at 0 personally).

Ideally you're using OLED in a room that isn't too bright and can get used to 25-30 OLED light (25 is about 100 nits which is the reference for SDR video content in a dark room). But it's not the end of the world if you need more. You just wear out the pixels noticeably faster, as rtings testing showed (they are using old models, new ones should last even longer). But it also really depends how many hours a day/week you are using it. You can do the math based on rtings data, most people should be able to get a good few years out of it if they don't use their set in a super bright room many hours a day.
 
Cisco78 said:
Huge help thanks!
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No problem. Just passing stuff I found on other forums from researching work-arounds for issues like those.

To update, I did move my primary windows taskbar to my secondary 4k screen. I put it at the top of the screen and then locked it away with taskbar hider. Notifications should show up there now so I'll turn some more back on to test it out.

Note that when you move which side or top/bottom you place the windows taskbar, your displayfusion taskbars will also move to that location if you are using that app with taskbars enabled. It took me awhile to realize this since I had the displayfusion one I'm using only show on mouseover and I wasn't looking for it to be at the top of the screen.

I'm still going to need to hunt for a way to get rid of the windows master volume overlay that pops up on the primary monitor though.

edit: hideVolumeOSD app works to get rid of that huge master volume overlay in windows once I realized it had to run as admin. There is no global shutoff for it in windows settings. Each individual app would have to allow you to turn off their media overlay control settings (hint: some don't). Also it's a big pita so I just run the system tray version of hidevolumeOSD as admin now.
 
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Cisco78 said:
Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.

What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
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75 is pretty high if you are not using HDR mode. I use mine at around 30-40 which is somewhere in the 120-130 nits ballpark if I remember correctly.
 
Is there a connection information screen I can access via the display? I'd like to know what the display sees in terms of resolution, refresh rate, color depth, etc. as a sanity check against what Windows tells me (old habit) and every display I've ever owned had some way to display this. I haven't been able to find it in the Settings function of the CX48.
 
Cisco78 said:
Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.

What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
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Normally you DO want the pixels moving within a reasonable timeframe. Hence the suggestions for either a fluid/moving desktop background like Vista had, or just set your desktop background to black (what most people do). That's built into Windows 10 and you don't need to download anything for it.

However, I still see some people who are new to OLED tech maybe freaking out a bit too much over things. It's understandable because there is (unfortunately) still so much stigma surrounding burn-in and these displays are not cheap. It never hurts to err on the side of caution, but don't worry too much. I've used OLEDs cumulatively for well over 3 years and with a reasonable OLED light setting I've only had temporary image retention once. And that was when I left an application window in the same place for hours and forgot to move it. The temporary IR went away shortly afterwards when either my screen saver or the built-in pixel refresh kicked in. I've been using my LG OLEDs for 8+ hours a day for work and general use, browsing etc. and have not experienced ANY burn-in. I've played a game with static UI elements for 6-8 hours at a time with no ill effects afterwards. My 55B7, when I stopped using it and replaced it with the 48CX, still looked as good as the day I bought it. I've had the 48CX since launch, have used it for work every day since, and it too looks as good as the day I unboxed it. Just stick with the basics...black background, hidden taskbar, reasonable OLED light level, set the screensaver to kick in after a few minutes, etc. and you'll be fine. If you're a software dev or a finance guy who is going to full screen Visual Studio or Excel for 8 hours a day then yeah, you might eventually run into issues with burn-in. I would recommend having a secondary display or NOT running those apps full screen and moving them around once in a while.

My OLED light is currently set to 25. As others have mentioned, 20-30 is likely a perfectly safe range for long term use that will maximize panel life while still being bright enough in all but the most well lit rooms. If your room is bright enough that you have to run it at 40-50, don't sweat it. What you don't want to do on these is run a high OLED light level of 80+ and leave static content on the screen for hours at a time. Anything else doesn't warrant hand wringing IMHO.
 
Updating with the fact that the hideosdVoume app seems to (sometimes?) be hiding the HDR popup overlay that would normally show when HDR content is launched. It's easy to tell anyway just from logos at the start of a game or movie. If in doubt, activate the subtitles since they will be very bright compared to the regular windows desktop brightness sliders levels. You can also click the app's icon in the taskbar and click "show" if you need to.
 
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Scrith said:
That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues. :)
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At least the CX has workarounds. What's your workaround for the Nanocell's subpar picture quality and worst motion?
 
Scrith said:
That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues. :)
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I'm loving this screen even without 120hz VRR yet.

The CX's VRR stutter was fixed. That was the biggest issue with it.

Burn in is avoidable if you use a black background and aren't using the screen for database/office static text stuff. This is a media and gaming screen. Also, if you pony up $66 a year "insurance" for 5 years you get burn in covered by the best buy extended warranty if you are that worried about it. That's what I did.

==============================================
The only standout issues remaining afaik are:

--dolby vision has lightened black depth slightly (some people don't even realize this without being shown sbs pictures of it)
.... this doesn't happen in HDR , HDR10+ and that content is readily available.

--VRR also has lightened black depth slightly at fps rates far below 120fpsHz (some people don't even realize this without being shown sbs pictures of it)
...it's only stands out if running game frame rate graphs whose roller coaster of rates regularly dips into the shallow end well beneath 100 - 117fpsHz
... that probably means if using 60, 75fps maybe 80fps average (already way beneath 120Hz 's gamma) and then having minus 15 to 30fps from that during your graph.
... you aren't getting appreciable gains out of a 120hz screen unless you are dialing in 100fpsHz average or better anyway in my opinion
... (70) 85fpsHz <<<< 100fpsHz average >>>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)

-- DTS passthrough is not available over arc / eARC
... most modern movies and a dozen or more modern games support dolby atmos anyway
... you can set up mpc-hc on pc or a nvidia shield etc to output transcode uncompressed PCM on the fly for movies/shows/videos so won't lose any DTS title's audio
... some people still report some audio stutter issues but I'm not sure if those are pass-through or they are trying to use the tv's internal apps. I never use internal TV apps or speakers personally since I have a nvidia shield and a pc.
... unless you are going for uncompressed hdmi audio formats for movies like I am, you can just run a spdif/optical audio line out from your pc to your AVR or speaker bar. You can also enter your audio options at any time and switch between which output your pc is using so you can switch between hdmi-LG audio and spdif-digital output on the fly. With a streamdeck there is even an app that allows you to toggle between two outputs on a streamdeck button press. It also changes the icon to show one output symbol as green and large and the other as small and red to let you know which is active.

-- HDMI 2.1 consoles ... ???? I haven't been keeping up with this but I'm sure there are some growing pains on any HDMI 2.1 tvs that will require firmware updates on the console, tv , or both.

=================================================



I can see if someone is budgeting for a console 120hz hdmi 2.1 getting a cheaper 120hz vrr IPS tv for it but there is no reason to try to belittle the best media and gaming screen available currently because of it's $1450 price (or $1200 for the 55" if you catch it on sale).
 
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https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/nano85
............................

Decent contrast ratio. IPS panels like the one on this TV aren't known to have good native contrast, but this is better than most IPS TVs, and it's similar to the higher-end LG SM9500. Still, blacks appear closer to gray when viewed in the dark, and the local dimming feature only slightly darkens blacks.

If you want a TV with a higher contrast ratio, check out the Samsung RU9000.
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Bad local dimming. It isn't very effective and makes dark scenes look worse. When there's a bright object that moves across the screen, the dimming zones around the object light up and it's noticeable even during real scenes. Setting the local dimming to 'Medium' helps with this issue, but overall, it gets very distracting. If you want a similar TV with a full-array local dimming feature, check out the LG NANO90.
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Poor black uniformity. There's visible clouding throughout with backlight bleed in the corners. The local dimming feature only makes it look worse as the entire screen is less uniform as there's clouding at the center where the cross is.
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nano85-uniformity-large.jpg

nano85-uniformity-local-dimming-large.jpg

Nj1fnSw.png
 
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sphinx99 said:
Is there a connection information screen I can access via the display? I'd like to know what the display sees in terms of resolution, refresh rate, color depth, etc. as a sanity check against what Windows tells me (old habit) and every display I've ever owned had some way to display this. I haven't been able to find it in the Settings function of the CX48.
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Yep, you can check that via hdmi diagnostics menu. Settings / Programmes/ Hover over Programme Tuning and pres 5times 1 (1,1,1,1,1) . Right arrow to highlight and select HDMI Mode and you can check some stuff.
 
Cisco78 said:
Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.

What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
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hell I use 10-15 for windows, 50 for games and movies, 100 for hdr
 
equinox654 said:
hell I use 10-15 for windows, 50 for games and movies, 100 for hdr
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Yup. I use 0 for work with light coming in a window, no issues. Then HDR with the Windows slider at 7% for non-work (equivalent of ~35 OLED light on SDR content). You'll think it looks dim right after you change it, but I guarantee after 10 minutes you won't even notice, and if you turn it back up to 75+ you'll squint.
 
Playing World of Warcraft at 3840x2160 i get a hitch every 20 secs or so. FPS is still high over 100 normally.

I have a 2080ti do you think this is a game settings issue or something with the tv/video card?

Thanks
 
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