I have an Ampere card now but I gamed with 4:2:0 120hz for a while and yes it looks totally fine in games, my only real issue was lack of VRR due to my 1080 ti. But no such problem with a 2080 ti, I would 100% not have jumped on Ampere if I had one.
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I get about 1/60 of a second extra lag when enabling 120Hz BFI. (about 4 extra frames with a 240 FPS phone camera compared to with BFI off, using a keyboard LED as reference)Since UT3 should be able to easily run locked at 115fps 100% of the time, here's something else you can try:
- Set the framerate cap to 120fps
- Turn off gsync.
- Turn on "Motion Pro" (black frame insertion).
Now it should be really smooth...though I kind of wonder if LG's implementation of black frame insertion at 120Hz impacts the input lag (I'd love to check this myself, but I only have access to an E9 which doesn't support BFI on 120Hz inputs). It is however worth noting that Rtings' review of the CX states that VRR @ 4k has around double the input lag of 4k 120Hz without VRR (yet interestingly 1080p + VRR is listed with the lowest input lag of all).
HDR wouldn't work at 8-bit 4:2:0 120 Hz, which is a deal breaker for most.I have an Ampere card now but I gamed with 4:2:0 120hz for a while and yes it looks totally fine in games, my only real issue was lack of VRR due to my 1080 ti. But no such problem with a 2080 ti, I would 100% not have jumped on Ampere if I had one.
Are you running in game mode? I find that any other mode will have slightly higher input lag even with instant game response enabled. Not enough to be a major issues but enough to be noticeable.I get about 1/60 of a second extra lag when enabling 120Hz BFI. (about 4 extra frames with a 240 FPS phone camera compared to with BFI off, using a keyboard LED as reference)
120 Hz BFI is one of the reasons I held out until this year to buy an OLED.
Whats that desk you have behind your desk to support the oled? Is that buyable somewhere?View attachment 304546View attachment 304547
All setup and I’m really liking it. One thing that’s bothering me, using my 2080Ti - the image improvement going from 60hz to 100+hz is huge (I felt the same way back when I had the first gen ASUS ROG Swift). So that means I have to run in YCbCr 4:2:0. I only care about gaming and while gaming i don’t notice a difference. But I do notice little things like the RTSS overlay isn’t quite as saturated of a yellow color compared to RGB 4:4:4. And the Lagom LCD test black level and white saturation images clip at the low/high end when using YCbCr 4:2:0. So this leads me to wonder what image quality sacrifices I’m making while gaming, if any. I’m sure there are others here struggling between the lesser of two evils, what are people choosing?
It’s two ikea nightstands that we bought but ended up not having a use for. I started using them about a year ago with my 43” Samsung as a temporary solution that ended up being more permanent than I expected. It’s a bit of a janky setup but it works.Whats that desk you have behind your desk to support the oled? Is that buyable somewhere?
Not to go off topic, but what is the second picView attachment 304546View attachment 304547
All setup and I’m really liking it. One thing that’s bothering me, using my 2080Ti - the image improvement going from 60hz to 100+hz is huge (I felt the same way back when I had the first gen ASUS ROG Swift). So that means I have to run in YCbCr 4:2:0. I only care about gaming and while gaming i don’t notice a difference. But I do notice little things like the RTSS overlay isn’t quite as saturated of a yellow color compared to RGB 4:4:4. And the Lagom LCD test black level and white saturation images clip at the low/high end when using YCbCr 4:2:0. So this leads me to wonder what image quality sacrifices I’m making while gaming, if any. I’m sure there are others here struggling between the lesser of two evils, what are people choosing?
Hey,View attachment 304546View attachment 304547
All setup and I’m really liking it. One thing that’s bothering me, using my 2080Ti - the image improvement going from 60hz to 100+hz is huge (I felt the same way back when I had the first gen ASUS ROG Swift). So that means I have to run in YCbCr 4:2:0. I only care about gaming and while gaming i don’t notice a difference. But I do notice little things like the RTSS overlay isn’t quite as saturated of a yellow color compared to RGB 4:4:4. And the Lagom LCD test black level and white saturation images clip at the low/high end when using YCbCr 4:2:0. So this leads me to wonder what image quality sacrifices I’m making while gaming, if any. I’m sure there are others here struggling between the lesser of two evils, what are people choosing?
elvn I thought my Q90R was "decent" at HDR content, but the truth is... it flat out sucks at HDR content. It does have FALD, which does great in high bit-rate content such as 4K Blu-ray. On compressed and low bit-rate HDR, though, it just flat out sucks. Lots of light smearing and FALD bloom, along with lagging FALD updates on high contrast scenes.
A lot of people see the CX's limited peak brightness and think "oh, that sucks for HDR". On the contrary... HDR looks, in my opinion, the best on OLED. It has massive punch from the fact that one pixel can be full brightness, and the one next to it is completely dark. You also don't have the lagging FALD of LCD TV's. Most people that say HDR sucks on OLED probably hasn't experienced it. It's amazing.
Shadow of the Tomb Raider, I picked it up during the Steam autumn sale.Not to go off topic, but what is the second pic
Hey,
Not to derail, but what's the second game?
elvn I thought my Q90R was "decent" at HDR content, but the truth is... it flat out sucks at HDR content. It does have FALD, which does great in high bit-rate content such as 4K Blu-ray. On compressed and low bit-rate HDR, though, it just flat out sucks. Lots of light smearing and FALD bloom, along with lagging FALD updates on high contrast scenes.
A lot of people see the CX's limited peak brightness and think "oh, that sucks for HDR". On the contrary... HDR looks, in my opinion, the best on OLED. It has massive punch from the fact that one pixel can be full brightness, and the one next to it is completely dark. You also don't have the lagging FALD of LCD TV's. Most people that say HDR sucks on OLED probably hasn't experienced it. It's amazing.
* Will the cheaper LG 48CX3LB be equal to the LG 48CX9LB in desktop/productivity?
Seems the 3LB uses 100Hz instead ofn120Hz native refresh rateAs I understand it the 9LB has dual DVB tuner, which the 6LB and 3LB doesn't have. I cant find good english information on the 3LB... But when using it as a monitor it wont matter.
1. Plenty sharp to me, but this is all subjective.Hi guys,
I am considering getting a 4k LG OLED for 70% productivity, 15% gaming, 15% movies/series, and my desk is 90cm deep.
The productivity part is mainly office/admin related.
* How sharp is the text? Is it comparable to let's say Dell Ultrasharp Office monitors?
* How calm is the picture?
* I am running a ASUS ROG Strixx 2060 O6G, will I have to get a HDMI 2.1 capable card?
* Will the cheaper LG 48CX3LB be equal to the LG 48CX9LB in desktop/productivity?
LG 48CX9LB ~1550 Euro
LG 48CX3LB ~1350 Euro
Thanks
Marco
This. The "quality" of the HDR because it can illuminate the brighter pixels individually is absolutely incredible especially when you consider that the black starting point is "perfect black." You simply don't need as much overall differential in brightness to be an incredible experience.Some people just look at the specs without understanding the limitations of the technology. On paper you might think an LCD is better for HDR, but in reality it's only better in rare edge cases.
When they measure contrast, color volume, and pretty much any picture quality specification they use a static image.
But when you watch a movie or play a game there is a lot of motion. Because LCDs take so long to transition you aren't getting full color volume or color accuracy while that pixel is transitioning. Not even close.
You may think, oh but my LCD has a 1ms response time, it's only bad for a split second. Well that's also a misleading specification, because when they measure LCD response times they only count the time it takes to do 90% of the transition. The last 10% of the transition can take 10s of milliseconds and typically doesn't even completely finish the same frame.
An OLED has near instantaneous 100% complete transitions and you get 100% of the specified color volume, color accuracy, and contrast 100% of the time no matter how fast the motion is.
Leave OLED light at 100, set the HDR/SDR brightness balance slider in Windows to 7%. SDR content will be the brightness of OLED light ~30.Playing through SOTR now... almost done with it. Holy cow what a pretty game on the CX in HDR.
This. The "quality" of the HDR because it can illuminate the brighter pixels individually is absolutely incredible especially when you consider that the black starting point is "perfect black." You simply don't need as much overall differential in brightness to be an incredible experience.
I KNOW that for HDR the OLED light level should be set to 100, BUT because I use my CX48 for desktop use I tuned it to an acceptable point at OLED light 75 for HDR content. This is simply to provide some protection against burn in if I forget and leave HDR on or leave a HDR game with a static HUD up for too long.
In the dim room I use the CX48 in, the HDR experience is still VASTLY SUPERIOR to any other HDR experience I've seen on any other screen up to now. It's still remarkable.
Sure, in a bright room, superbright items on screen like lasers and fire won't be amazing, but as we already know, you should not be using an OLED in a bright room for desktop use at all, and in general not if you can help it.
If you must run the screen in torch mode in a bright environment, an OLED isn't your best choice anyway. Used properly, it is unbeatable.
I KNOW that for HDR the OLED light level should be set to 100, BUT because I use my CX48 for desktop use I tuned it to an acceptable point at OLED light 75 for HDR content. This is simply to provide some protection against burn in if I forget and leave HDR on or leave a HDR game with a static HUD up for too long.
In the dim room I use the CX48 in, the HDR experience is still VASTLY SUPERIOR to any other HDR experience I've seen on any other screen up to now. It's still remarkable.
Leave OLED light at 100, set the HDR/SDR brightness balance slider in Windows to 7%. SDR content will be the brightness of OLED light ~30.
Playing through SOTR now... almost done with it. Holy cow what a pretty game on the CX in HDR.
This. The "quality" of the HDR because it can illuminate the brighter pixels individually is absolutely incredible especially when you consider that the black starting point is "perfect black." You simply don't need as much overall differential in brightness to be an incredible experience.
I KNOW that for HDR the OLED light level should be set to 100, BUT because I use my CX48 for desktop use I tuned it to an acceptable point at OLED light 75 for HDR content. This is simply to provide some protection against burn in if I forget and leave HDR on or leave a HDR game with a static HUD up for too long.
In the dim room I use the CX48 in, the HDR experience is still VASTLY SUPERIOR to any other HDR experience I've seen on any other screen up to now. It's still remarkable.
Sure, in a bright room, superbright items on screen like lasers and fire won't be amazing, but as we already know, you should not be using an OLED in a bright room for desktop use at all, and in general not if you can help it.
If you must run the screen in torch mode in a bright environment, an OLED isn't your best choice anyway. Used properly, it is unbeatable.
No, I'm not talking about the Windows HDR balance slider. I have that set properly. There are other ways you can royally screw up:
I'm talking about leaving an HDR image, from an HDR source, up on the screen. I don't want to accidentally pause an HDR movie, or leave a hud up on an HDR game for a long period of time, and have there by any possibility that the pixels are static at 100.
You pick what you are comfortable with. I'm using this screen for nearly all kinds of use and I don't want to have to be THAT careful, so I have accepted limited the max pixel brightness. For this kind of situation, it should be exponential, so even a small restriction of the maximum should provide quite a lot of safety margin for keeping the screen in good shape for 5+ years of heavy desktop use, which is my goal.
Yeah assume the TV is made for the average max brightness Joe to walk into max brightness Best Buy, get sold the TV, and replicate max brightness Best Buy at home with no clue. LG wouldn't be selling the TV if this behavior ACTUALLY generally messed it up quickly because there are a lot of max brightness Joes out there that would leave bad reviews and poison the technology. There's enough max brightness Joe protection built in that an informed [H] user will be 10000000% fine.You're fine because the TV has ASBL which will automatically dim the screen if you leave a static logo on for a set period of time, unless that function is disabled when the TV is in HDR mode or something. Even the PS5 has an auto dimming feature that you can set; was playing Demon's Souls last night then walked away from the TV to eat and came back to find the entire screen had been dimmed down a good amount.
Is Instant Game Response supposed to display every time you turn on your computer? Because mine does.Just got the 03.11.30 OTA update. Will be testing shortly.
Yeah, any time it gets a VRR signal it will display that, and the HDR banner any time it gets an HDR signal.Is Instant Game Response supposed to display every time you turn on your computer? Because mine does.
Apologize for my nitpicking AFAIK the HUD usually isn't taking advantage of the potential brightness of HDR. At least I haven't heard of it before. Static images on the screen in general aren't given peak highlights. If anything, depending on how the HDR is utilized, the HUD elements could potentially be dimmer than if you had HDR off. Leaving the brightness at 100 would enable you to take better advantage of your TV's potential PQ as well as serve as a reminder that the HDR is on (so there's virtually no way you could forget that HDR is on unless you're using sunglasses or something weird). If you set the brightness to something only slightly higher than SDR, you're far more likely to forget you left HDR on. Or at least that would be true for me in this case.Playing through SOTR now... almost done with it. Holy cow what a pretty game on the CX in HDR.
This. The "quality" of the HDR because it can illuminate the brighter pixels individually is absolutely incredible especially when you consider that the black starting point is "perfect black." You simply don't need as much overall differential in brightness to be an incredible experience.
I KNOW that for HDR the OLED light level should be set to 100, BUT because I use my CX48 for desktop use I tuned it to an acceptable point at OLED light 75 for HDR content. This is simply to provide some protection against burn in if I forget and leave HDR on or leave a HDR game with a static HUD up for too long.
When I looked at it the Best Buy warranty explicitly covers burn in, not just omits it from the list of things it doesn't cover. Language could have changed since. Every other extended warranty I looked at explicitly does not cover it.Reports from owners of early b series lg old tvs have said the best buy extended warranty covers burn in , which was surprising to me. Their 5 yr isn't cheap but I feel better looking at it like $66/yr burn in (and any other problem) insurance over 5 years
I found a thread with a cfg edit for Jedi fallen order that us supposed to remove the green life bar from the hud and Im going to try that out though.
I totally agree. My wife played Horizon Zero Dawn for the first time on the TV and was blown away with how good HDR looks on the CX 65....Really think this is the future of gaming.You guys weren’t kidding about HDR. Tonight I tried out:
- Shadow of the Tomb Raider
- The Division 2
- Horizon Zero Dawn
- COD:BO Cold War
- Assassin’s Creed: Valhalla
- Assassin’s Creed: Origins
Now this is my first exposure to HDR of any kind, but wow. This is the feature I cared the least about and ended up being the one I think I’m most impressed with.
The G-SYNC demo is broken at 4:2:0. G-SYNC should still work in games. Make sure you've selected Fullscreen Exclusive mode if G-SYNC is not enabled for windowed applications.^ G-SYNC does not work - in the Pendulum demo I cannot select G-SYNC and the display indicator does not show
I'm using a 2080 Ti. Any idea what the issue is? Apologies if this has already been covered, i'm still working my way through this thread.
I KNOW that for HDR the OLED light level should be set to 100, BUT because I use my CX48 for desktop use I tuned it to an acceptable point at OLED light 75 for HDR content. This is simply to provide some protection against burn in if I forget and leave HDR on or leave a HDR game with a static HUD up for too long.
That happened to my B6 twice over a four year period; not sure what was going on, but shutting down the TV made the issue go away. I'm really not sure what was going on to be perfectly honest, though I strongly suspect it's the TV/Connection and not the PC.Anyone else get a random tear line at the bottom of their screen? It goes away if I turn off/on the TV. Haven't figured out what causes it yet, it even shows up during desktop use
Out of curiosity, where is the setting to enable G-SYNC for Windowed applications?The G-SYNC demo is broken at 4:2:0. G-SYNC should still work in games. Make sure you've selected Fullscreen Exclusive mode if G-SYNC is not enabled for windowed applications.
Same place as where you enable g-sync altogether. It's all on one page. I don't recommend it right now, it appears broken for apps that don't use dx12 or Vulkan (aka apps that bypass DWM easily).Out of curiosity, where is the setting to enable G-SYNC for Windowed applications?