Yeah, I’m sure it’s not as nice as an OLED, but it has no burn-in issues and it is 1/3 the price of the 48CX.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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GTFO, lol. The 48CX is in another class completely.
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Lol seriously? Nano IPS has a tough time just competing with VA panels, it's not even a contest against an OLED. Only people with serious delusions will believe that a Nano IPS can compete against OLED
That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).Yeah, I’m sure it’s not as nice as an OLED, but it has no burn-in issues and it is 1/3 the price.
Lol seriously? Nano IPS has a tough time just competing with VA panels, it's not even a contest against an OLED. Only people with serious delusions will believe that a Nano IPS can compete against OLED
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues.
I rather use pure black wallpaper, with some combination of dark broser mode. Less hours on OLED pixels = better lifetime.
Ah ok I was under the impression you wanted the pixels moving, not static, thanks. I'll see if I can find some good wallpaper.
What's considered a reasonable OLED setting? Mine is at 75 right now.
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I use all black wallpaper so the oled is pretty much off on a blank screen like kalston said.
I use transluscent taskbar app (from github or microsoft store) to make the taskbar clear. I also use taskbarhider app which allows me to assign a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. Using displayfusion taskbars on my other monitors which include windows startmenu/button, system tray, animated mouseover thumbnails of apps on the taskbar etc. I don't need to use a taskbar on the primary LG CX gaming/media monitor anymore. So I use my taskbarhider app's hotkey to just lock the regular windows taskbar away on the primary monitor 99% of the time. Displayfusion also lets you keep the ALT-TAB or CTRL-ALT-TAB (persistent popup) thumbnails isolated to whatever apps are open on that particular monitor which makes it easy to swap between what app is focused on that way instead of using taskbars. It also allows you to customize the size of the thumbnails that pop up while tabbing if you want to.
The main things that still pop up on the LG CX are the master volume overlay and the system notifications - but I went into the system notifications menu (Win + A , then click "manage notifications" to open the notifications config window) and turned most of the notifications off. I might look for a 3rd part app for that if there are any to see if I can make them visible on my other screen(s).
I tried an app to hide the windows 10 volume overlay when I change the master volume but I haven't found a reliable way to get rid of that yet.
Other than that, some installers and updates and such pop onto the primary but I can drag them off of it to another monitor. I wouldn't walk away from my screen for too long counting on the black wallpaper or even a screensaver because crashed apps and update windows and such take top level and would be sitting there static on the primary monitor.
I leave HDR on/active at 100 on the primary (LG CX OLED) and just use the windows HDR slider to bring it down until right click menus and general text and backgrounds look normal/SDR again. The LG OLEDs already have to tone map HDR10 (1000nit) content down to 800 or whatever their peak is. HDR should be left at it's max for movies and games and then just use the windows HDR brightness slider to bring it down a lot (to what looks like SDR levels) for desktop when outside of launched HDR games and UHD HDR movies etc (where the HDR overlay flag shows up on launch/start).
Edit: I might be able to unlock and drag the primary taskbar to a secondary monitor, then hide it, so that the notifications appear where that bar is hidden.
I use transluscent taskbar app (from github or microsoft store) to make the taskbar clear. I also use taskbarhider app which allows me to assign a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. Using displayfusion taskbars on my other monitors which include windows startmenu/button, system tray, animated mouseover thumbnails of apps on the taskbar etc. I don't need to use a taskbar on the primary LG CX gaming/media monitor anymore. So I use my taskbarhider app's hotkey to just lock the regular windows taskbar away on the primary monitor 99% of the time. Displayfusion also lets you keep the ALT-TAB or CTRL-ALT-TAB (persistent popup) thumbnails isolated to whatever apps are open on that particular monitor which makes it easy to swap between what app is focused on that way instead of using taskbars. It also allows you to customize the size of the thumbnails that pop up while tabbing if you want to.
The main things that still pop up on the LG CX are the master volume overlay and the system notifications - but I went into the system notifications menu (Win + A , then click "manage notifications" to open the notifications config window) and turned most of the notifications off. I might look for a 3rd part app for that if there are any to see if I can make them visible on my other screen(s).
I tried an app to hide the windows 10 volume overlay when I change the master volume but I haven't found a reliable way to get rid of that yet.
Other than that, some installers and updates and such pop onto the primary but I can drag them off of it to another monitor. I wouldn't walk away from my screen for too long counting on the black wallpaper or even a screensaver because crashed apps and update windows and such take top level and would be sitting there static on the primary monitor.
I leave HDR on/active at 100 on the primary (LG CX OLED) and just use the windows HDR slider to bring it down until right click menus and general text and backgrounds look normal/SDR again. The LG OLEDs already have to tone map HDR10 (1000nit) content down to 800 or whatever their peak is. HDR should be left at it's max for movies and games and then just use the windows HDR brightness slider to bring it down a lot (to what looks like SDR levels) for desktop when outside of launched HDR games and UHD HDR movies etc (where the HDR overlay flag shows up on launch/start).
Edit: I might be able to unlock and drag the primary taskbar to a secondary monitor, then hide it, so that the notifications appear where that bar is hidden.
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Huge help thanks!
It depends on room lightning and I'm only talking SDR (it needs to stay at 100 in HDR and you use the Windows slider like elvn said, in a dark room I need it at 0 personally).
Ideally you're using OLED in a room that isn't too bright and can get used to 25-30 OLED light (25 is about 100 nits which is the reference for SDR video content in a dark room). But it's not the end of the world if you need more. You just wear out the pixels noticeably faster, as rtings testing showed (they are using old models, new ones should last even longer). But it also really depends how many hours a day/week you are using it. You can do the math based on rtings data, most people should be able to get a good few years out of it if they don't use their set in a super bright room many hours a day.
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No problem. Just passing stuff I found on other forums from researching work-arounds for issues like those.
To update, I did move my primary windows taskbar to my secondary 4k screen. I put it at the top of the screen and then locked it away with taskbar hider. Notifications should show up there now so I'll turn some more back on to test it out.
Note that when you move which side or top/bottom you place the windows taskbar, your displayfusion taskbars will also move to that location if you are using that app with taskbars enabled. It took me awhile to realize this since I had the displayfusion one I'm using only show on mouseover and I wasn't looking for it to be at the top of the screen.
I'm still going to need to hunt for a way to get rid of the windows master volume overlay that pops up on the primary monitor though.
edit: hideVolumeOSD app works to get rid of that huge master volume overlay in windows once I realized it had to run as admin. There is no global shutoff for it in windows settings. Each individual app would have to allow you to turn off their media overlay control settings (hint: some don't). Also it's a big pita so I just run the system tray version of hidevolumeOSD as admin now.
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75 is pretty high if you are not using HDR mode. I use mine at around 30-40 which is somewhere in the 120-130 nits ballpark if I remember correctly.
Is there a connection information screen I can access via the display? I'd like to know what the display sees in terms of resolution, refresh rate, color depth, etc. as a sanity check against what Windows tells me (old habit) and every display I've ever owned had some way to display this. I haven't been able to find it in the Settings function of the CX48.
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Normally you DO want the pixels moving within a reasonable timeframe. Hence the suggestions for either a fluid/moving desktop background like Vista had, or just set your desktop background to black (what most people do). That's built into Windows 10 and you don't need to download anything for it.
However, I still see some people who are new to OLED tech maybe freaking out a bit too much over things. It's understandable because there is (unfortunately) still so much stigma surrounding burn-in and these displays are not cheap. It never hurts to err on the side of caution, but don't worry too much. I've used OLEDs cumulatively for well over 3 years and with a reasonable OLED light setting I've only had temporary image retention once. And that was when I left an application window in the same place for hours and forgot to move it. The temporary IR went away shortly afterwards when either my screen saver or the built-in pixel refresh kicked in. I've been using my LG OLEDs for 8+ hours a day for work and general use, browsing etc. and have not experienced ANY burn-in. I've played a game with static UI elements for 6-8 hours at a time with no ill effects afterwards. My 55B7, when I stopped using it and replaced it with the 48CX, still looked as good as the day I bought it. I've had the 48CX since launch, have used it for work every day since, and it too looks as good as the day I unboxed it. Just stick with the basics...black background, hidden taskbar, reasonable OLED light level, set the screensaver to kick in after a few minutes, etc. and you'll be fine. If you're a software dev or a finance guy who is going to full screen Visual Studio or Excel for 8 hours a day then yeah, you might eventually run into issues with burn-in. I would recommend having a secondary display or NOT running those apps full screen and moving them around once in a while.
My OLED light is currently set to 25. As others have mentioned, 20-30 is likely a perfectly safe range for long term use that will maximize panel life while still being bright enough in all but the most well lit rooms. If your room is bright enough that you have to run it at 40-50, don't sweat it. What you don't want to do on these is run a high OLED light level of 80+ and leave static content on the screen for hours at a time. Anything else doesn't warrant hand wringing IMHO.
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Updating with the fact that the hideosdVoume app seems to (sometimes?) be hiding the HDR popup overlay that would normally show when HDR content is launched. It's easy to tell anyway just from logos at the start of a game or movie. If in doubt, activate the subtitles since they will be very bright compared to the regular windows desktop brightness sliders levels. You can also click the app's icon in the taskbar and click "show" if you need to.
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That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues.
At least the CX has workarounds. What's your workaround for the Nanocell's subpar picture quality and worst motion?
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That same guy has a video comparing an LG NANOCELL to an LG OLED that goes over the pluses and minuses of both (and, yes, there are a few minuses to OLED).
Anyway, I’ve got 3 LG OLED TVs (various generations) so you don’t need to tell me about their merits. The problem is that I don’t want to use one for my PC because it will have burn-in issues, so I thought I’d mention a much cheaper alternative for PC users that want a cheap 4K@120Hz option (with full 48Gbps HDMI bandwidth) for their new RTX and RX video cards. I’ve moved that to another thread, so you all can go back to talking about workarounds for the CX issues.
I'm loving this screen even without 120hz VRR yet.
The CX's VRR stutter was fixed. That was the biggest issue with it.
Burn in is avoidable if you use a black background and aren't using the screen for database/office static text stuff. This is a media and gaming screen. Also, if you pony up $66 a year "insurance" for 5 years you get burn in covered by the best buy extended warranty if you are that worried about it. That's what I did.
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The only standout issues remaining afaik are:
--dolby vision has lightened black depth slightly (some people don't even realize this without being shown sbs pictures of it)
.... this doesn't happen in HDR , HDR10+ and that content is readily available.
--VRR also has lightened black depth slightly at fps rates far below 120fpsHz (some people don't even realize this without being shown sbs pictures of it)
...it's only stands out if running game frame rate graphs whose roller coaster of rates regularly dips into the shallow end well beneath 100 - 117fpsHz
... that probably means if using 60, 75fps maybe 80fps average (already way beneath 120Hz 's gamma) and then having minus 15 to 30fps from that during your graph.
... you aren't getting appreciable gains out of a 120hz screen unless you are dialing in 100fpsHz average or better anyway in my opinion
... (70) 85fpsHz <<<< 100fpsHz average >>>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)
-- DTS passthrough is not available over arc / eARC
... most modern movies and a dozen or more modern games support dolby atmos anyway
... you can set up mpc-hc on pc or a nvidia shield etc to output transcode uncompressed PCM on the fly for movies/shows/videos so won't lose any DTS title's audio
... some people still report some audio stutter issues but I'm not sure if those are pass-through or they are trying to use the tv's internal apps. I never use internal TV apps or speakers personally since I have a nvidia shield and a pc.
... unless you are going for uncompressed hdmi audio formats for movies like I am, you can just run a spdif/optical audio line out from your pc to your AVR or speaker bar. You can also enter your audio options at any time and switch between which output your pc is using so you can switch between hdmi-LG audio and spdif-digital output on the fly. With a streamdeck there is even an app that allows you to toggle between two outputs on a streamdeck button press. It also changes the icon to show one output symbol as green and large and the other as small and red to let you know which is active.
-- HDMI 2.1 consoles ... ???? I haven't been keeping up with this but I'm sure there are some growing pains on any HDMI 2.1 tvs that will require firmware updates on the console, tv , or both.
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I can see if someone is budgeting for a console 120hz hdmi 2.1 getting a cheaper 120hz vrr IPS tv for it but there is no reason to try to belittle the best media and gaming screen available currently because of it's $1450 price (or $1200 for the 55" if you catch it on sale).
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Yep, you can check that via hdmi diagnostics menu. Settings / Programmes/ Hover over Programme Tuning and pres 5times 1 (1,1,1,1,1) . Right arrow to highlight and select HDMI Mode and you can check some stuff.
equinox654
Gawd
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yep, every lcd looks like a smeary gray washed out mess now.
equinox654
Gawd
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hell I use 10-15 for windows, 50 for games and movies, 100 for hdr
mirkendargen
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Yup. I use 0 for work with light coming in a window, no issues. Then HDR with the Windows slider at 7% for non-work (equivalent of ~35 OLED light on SDR content). You'll think it looks dim right after you change it, but I guarantee after 10 minutes you won't even notice, and if you turn it back up to 75+ you'll squint.
equinox654
Gawd
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Thats been my experience. Besides.. I don't need notpad++ and solidworks to be vibrant. I'd rather not stress the oleds for desktop tasks.
Thank you. This has confirmed a problem I am having. When in the nVidia Control Panel I select (under PC resolutions) the 3840x2160 option and 120Hz (8bpp, 32bit, full/rgb) the PC is sending out a 4096x2160 active signal that the display is scaling. Hence I am getting some narrow black vertical bars on the sides. I am now running a high quality cable (signaling issues have disappeared) so I'm not sure what's going on. Under the Ultra HD/HD/SD section, selecting the 3840x2160 (native) option @ 60Hz sends the proper signal.
In either case I am not seeing the display detected as GSync compatible. GPU is a RTX 3080. Any ideas?
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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I noticed some games doing this, they're defaulting to the max resolution supported by your display because they think that's what you'd obviously want. I used Custom Resolution Utility to delete 4096x2160 out of the EDID, problem solved.
Set nvidia scaling options to "display" and not "GPU", this is some recent nvidia bug I've noticed with Ampere (but not with my Pascal card). I don't know why LG insists on having that fake 4096x2160 res in their EDID though.
Thank you - that did the trick! That is a tricky one I may not have caught - appreciate the tip. Now to figure out why GSync doesn't show as active...
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According to LTT's video, LG is planning an update with DSC for the 8K OLEDs. Those models have two 48 Gbps ports as well. Maybe the 4K models will get the DSC update too. I wonder if HDMI 2.0 GPUs can use DSC since they have the capability for DisplayPort, though it's only part of the HDMI 2.1 specification. If so, it would allow 4K 120 Hz at higher than 8-bit 4:2:0 on HDMI 2.0.
for gsync you can also check if its enabled for display via another secret menu, just repately press green button and VRR info menu will apear. If there is VRR gsync is enable if fixed its not.
HDMI diagnostic screen can be accessed by going to Programmes -> highlight Programme Tuning & Settings -> Hit 1,1,1,1,1,1 on your remote. Then press right to highlight HDMI mode and click that to open the info you are looking for.
Latest Nvidia 457 based drivers seem to have some problems with color space when 120 Hz is in use. I have to use an older 456.71 driver to get working DSC support on my Club3D adapter. If I use a newer one it will only support 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 as if I was using a HDMI 2.0 cable.
PC resolution should still change correctly if scaling is set to display. Try changing it from Windows display settings to see if that does anything different.
My understanding is that HDMI 2.0 does not support DSC at least in its spec. It is a HDMI 2.1 feature. I suppose in theory it could be backported but it would require the TV to support it and I don't think Nvidia or LG has any interest in supporting out of spec features. At best DSC could allow 4K 120 Hz 12 bit color for CX series but that is also a pretty pointless endeavour to implement when the panel is 10-bit.
But I am excited to see support for 8K DSC because that could mean 8K 120 Hz panel would be possible to make. LG, give me a 48" 8K 120 Hz version of the current CX and I'll buy it! Well, as long as it's more reasonably priced than the current 8K screens. I know 8K 120 hz would not be anything you could reach in the next 5-10 years but it would make all the difference on the desktop.
I'm having a minor issue where when I boot PC, tv won't recognize PC HDMI input, says no signal. Most times I have to turn TV off then on again and windows login screen will appear. Am I not giving ti enough time or is there a TV/Windows/Bios setting I need to adjust?
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Seems to be a TV or NVIDIA bug since it occurs in the UEFI as well. It happens once in a while on my RTX 3090. It did not happen with a direct connection from my RTX 2080 Ti to the CX with older firmware.
Hmmm, so just need to be patient with a driver/firmware update? I have a 3090 as well, Asus Strix OC.
if anyone elsi is also looking for new cable and maybe missed this announcement like me:
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Club 3D is proud to announce having received the certification of our Ultra High Speed HDMI™ Cable 4K120 8K60Hz 48Gbps M/M 2m/6.56ft with item code CAC-1372 by the HDMI™ organisation, as one of the first cables worldwide. Since its launch this cable has always been one of our bestsellers and it should attract even more users with the now received certificate. The product page of CAC-1372 has been reworked with placing informartion and pictures, including the Ultra High Speed HDMI™ certificate whereever suitable.