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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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IdiotInCharge
NVIDIA SHILL
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I don't game in windowed mode, and I want to have other windows open and visible...
l88bastard
2[H]4U
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Whenever I tried that, I noticed distinct GPU performance suffering. Maybe its placebo, maybe my fetich is missionary mono monitor sex with gpus...I dunno....but what I do know is I find multi-displays while trying to game on one and watch something on the other to be
I use a custom scaling of 120%. I feel it's a good compromise between text size and desktop area. This results in about 3200x1800. I really wish Windows offered more steps between 100% and 125% as it will pick how some things scale pretty randomly with custom scaling settings, e.g. 120% seems to use mostly sizes of 125% for some UI elements but 110% uses 100% scaling for some things.
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My peripheral desk is on caster wheels and it's a kidney-bean/xbox controller shaped semi-circle so it's pretty eay to just spin my whole keyboard/mouse area 15 degrees to the side. Otherwise I regularly just turn my chair that much and type with my arms angled 15 deg toward one or my other shoulder depending which monitor I'm typing "to" . If I'm going to be doing something keyboard based for a while I'll just spin the desk slightly, and spin it back if I want to be gaming primarily. My mouse pad is big enough that mousing around with my chair spun slightly, using the semi-circle arc of my desk, isn't a problem.
I think if I bump up the scaling a notch I should be close enough to a 48" CX's default 1:1 since they are 43" 4k monitors. A 27" one wouldn't be useful to me on the sides because I wouldn't get much desktop real-estate once I turned the scaling up enough to near the 48" 4k's at ~4' away.
I keep a bunch of apps running on the side monitors including several chat apps (incl. discord),"your phone" app, progress meters, system monitoring, shareX screenshot/video capture manager, a dual pane file manager, a few streams, a web browser, email, maybe plex for a movie at times, tidal music app to play flac playlists while gaming, etc.. but when I'm gaming a lot of the time I'm using a controller on souls type games anyway so I'm not jumping out of the game frame much to mouse around once everything is up and running. I use a usb midi mixer with faders and knobs tied to all of my most used apps and games so I can adjust their volumes on the fly without exiting games. Fullscreen windows games with enough performance are easily paged off of by hitting the windows key to get the mouse back though.
With my current setup I'm using my 43" VA TVs for media and videos and my 32" gaming monitor for games since the VA TV's are larger and have much higher contrast with better black depths. When I get a OLED that will become the media stage. Outside of gaming sessions, I'll be facing my 43" monitor(s) and the OLED will be running a movie or youtube, a game stream, art/photo slideshow, audio visualization, etc. So once I'm out of gaming, the OLED will be a media stage and my other monitors will be "my pc" for desktop apps.
Borderless window mode nowadays can be identical in performance to exclusive fullscreen. Windowed will still have performance penalties and you also don't really want a window titlebar on an OLED to sit around for your whole gaming session. The problem with borderless window is moving the window to where you want it, you will need to use something like DisplayFusion for this.
I am annoyed that TVs don't include a picture by picture mode because it would solve all these issues and let you split the screen in various ways. They have the inputs and I would assume the processing power but the feature just does not exist in most TVs. HDMI multiviewers are very expensive (same or more than the CX 48 itself) and probably introduce a pile of input lag because they are not meant for desktop usage. Most also don't output 4K 60 Hz let alone 120 Hz.
My solution for "gaming and something else" has been to just have an iPad Pro on my desk for the "something else" as I can't exactly fit any more monitors comfortably after this behemoth of a display.
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- Jul 31, 2009
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No I do not. Despite the arm being rated for one of the highest weights I have seen on an arm, the tilt on it could not support my Samsung CRG9 or the CX 48 without really cranking the tilt bolts down, like as hard as I could physically manage. It was a two person job to get the screen mounted and angled correctly. Support from the company was non-existent as they never answered my emails. The build quality of the arm itself is otherwise very good but the tilt portion really ruins it.
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Dang it you asked for pics just as soon as I dropped off my X27 to one of my buddies who's interested in buying it (he wants to use it for a while though before deciding). But well here's the pic anyway with the monitor-less VESA arm. You get the idea, use it for desktop things then swing it away and whip out the controller when it's time to play some games.
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MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2006
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Any way to turn power on and off with PC?
In theory this should be possible with HDMI CEC but I don't know how to use that on Windows. The other option is using the LG WebOS API which is incredibly poorly documented. Vinz80 from AVSForum made a great app called ColorControl that is able to interface with the LG API and you could possibly use that to send a "power on" command, maybe.
I thought I would control my LG a lot with my computer but in the end I just have the remote on my desk similar to how I would have a keyboard or mouse. It's easy to reach for that and do things. I use the ColorControl app mainly to access the HDMI diagnostics and override menus because it's easier than inputting the commands from the remote.
ColorControl is a great app if you want to enable dithering or use YUV444 on Nvidia GPUs btw. The issue with HDMI and YUV444 might be entirely simply NVCP not supporting the option in its menus for inexplicable reasons because when you use ColorControl to set YUV444, NVCP just shows an empty value for that but it works just fine.
ChiralConscious
n00b
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- Jul 29, 2020
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I use Innovative 7500-hd monitor arm (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MAWDRO). I had a similar experience with the tilt, which had to be tightened to the point that the allen key had a nice curve to it (while the tension was on it). However, now that it is installed, it will actually hold a tilt. For some reason the tilting mechanism seems to be rated for 32 lbs, with the arm rated for 44 lbs otherwise. Overall, I still love it. I reposition the tv/monitor daily as I use it for various purposes and it has no trouble at all with the weight. It seems the tilting mechanism is the weak point of all of the heavy duty monitor arms. Even though it [the tilt] is just out of spec, I still find that it is just enough to work after the very aggressive tightening.
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It's a pretty common issue on all monitor arms. I really don't know why they can't design it so that it is either something you can easily fix at a specific angle or just so that it actually can hold the monitor. Mine also holds just fine when the tilt is cranked and moving the display on the arm is perfectly fine. But for the LG CX 48 desk mounted monitor arms are not that great a solution because then you are limited by the depth of the desk. A floor stand or wall mount gives you more possibilities.
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Does anyone know how I can have the LG 48X turn off automatically when there's no mouse/kbd input for a while? IIRC this didn't work properly before.
I've been just turning it off with the remote, but sometimes after turning it back on the whole desktop has a green tinge and the PC needs a reboot.
I've been just turning it off with the remote, but sometimes after turning it back on the whole desktop has a green tinge and the PC needs a reboot.
Never seen a green tinge issue. Maybe try a different cable?
I've been just turning it off with the remote.
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New firmware has fixed HDMI signaling problem so no need to manually force BT.2020 anymore. 03.10.44 doesn't add anything significant.
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It hasn't fixed anything - it's an adaptor issue. The TV says there is no colour space information with the adaptor.
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Ok but then surely it would fix this issue with any other device that's not that sorryass Club3D adapter right?
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There is no colour space issue with other devices.
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Then what is he talking about at 7:00? Different issue I presume? He mentions having to rely on the TV to force BT.2020 using HDMI signaling override or else he gets a washed out image. Sounds similar to what other users were complaining about on here.
sharknice
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Nov 12, 2012
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That was only happening because he "hacked" his PC to use BT.2020 and the PC wasn't telling the TV it was using BT.2020 color space. So there was a color space mismatch that you can fix by overriding it on the TV.
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I see. Well whatever the case is, if it's not "fixed" then I guess people can just keep doing whatever they were previously doing to get things working properly.
Has anyone found a solution to the screen shift bug in the settings yet?
i.e. where you keep having to go into "All settings" -> "Picture" -> "OLED Screensaver" -> turn Screen Shift ON then OFF. ?
I'm sure when I first got my monitor, I didn't have this problem... I'm convinced it only started when I reset the monitor and set it up from scratch.
And I haven't yet got the latest firmware so I don't know if this has been fixed yet, I'm still on 03.10.20
i.e. where you keep having to go into "All settings" -> "Picture" -> "OLED Screensaver" -> turn Screen Shift ON then OFF. ?
I'm sure when I first got my monitor, I didn't have this problem... I'm convinced it only started when I reset the monitor and set it up from scratch.
And I haven't yet got the latest firmware so I don't know if this has been fixed yet, I'm still on 03.10.20
Definitely not fixed.
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I just tested with Quickstart+ back on and at 4K 120 Hz there is definitely blurriness that goes away by toggling the Screen shift from off to on and back to off. This is an easy way to tell that the bug still exists. The 4K 120 Hz blurriness with Screen shift on is of course another bug in itself.
If QuickStart+ is off, it remembers the Screen shift setting correctly and it remains on or off even after turning off the TV and turning it back on.
QuickStart+ keeps the TV in a higher power mode when off so it will start faster and the TV UI is instantly accessible. This is basically a "nice to have" feature and saves you some seconds, making using the TV easier. With a computer you aren't touching the settings that much so it doesn't matter if it takes a few more seconds to show picture when you start using it, for me I can type in my password in the time it takes to fire up and show picture.
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way
Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient
Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.
I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2006
- Messages
- 435
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way
Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient
Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.
I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.
I think someone earlier in this thread said you could send a WOL magic packet to the TV when it was off and it would turn on. Not sure if that requires quickstart+ to be enabled or not, and if it works over both wired and wireless.
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way
Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient
Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.
I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.
Thanks for all your hard work. Your app has become really useful for me as I have worked with Club3D to resolve the issues I have had with their adapter and they seem to be finally making some progress. Being able to macro open the HDMI diagnostics menu and HDMI overridde menu has been very helpful. I feel like your app with just the Nvidia color preset stuff is things that should have been part of Nvidia Control Panel from the start as some 4K displays have issues like not being able to output 10-bit color at higher than 98 Hz refresh rate due to bandwidth limitations.
I've experimented a bit with Wake-on-LAN today and it's working if the "Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi" option is engaged. It works over ethernet (wired) as well and Quickstart+ is not needed.
No problem. I have the Club3D adapter as well. I take it you received some updated firmwares from them? I managed to install the firmware that was posted a couple of weeks back on AVSForum. I didn't improve much, but I don't have a lot of problems with it. The most annoying problem is that when the TV is turned on while a lower resolution/refresh rate is active (like the UEFI/Windows loading screen) and Windows switches over to 4K@120Hz, it displays a no signal found message. If I turn the TV off and on again, it displays 4K@120Hz without a problem. Maybe it's a TV issue, who knows.
Sounds amazing, cant wait to try this out. Turning on and off all the time is becoming annoying...
dpoverlord
2[H]4U
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- Nov 18, 2004
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- 2,072
Hey guys! I have been on the fence still after reading all of these 95 pages, am I right in thinking there is not a HUGE difference between the 55" CX vs last years model? I have the 2015 Samsung JS TV and REALLY wanted an upgrade so I could get better picture, lower latency with G-Sync with the new Nvidia GPU and FINALLY get 60 fps in skyrim at 4k.
If you are looking for a 55" or above might as well buy C9 or CX depending on which is cheaper or better available. 120 Hz BFI is the only new feature really worth mentioning on the CX. I have a 48" CX and 65" C9 and can't tell them apart in terms of image quality etc.
Definitely contact Club3D. I have received several firmwares from them and the latest one (v1.02) did a lot to solve my issues with resolution switching and output.
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Vizio will also be releasing 55" and 65" 120Hz hdmi 2.1 OLED TVs with LG panels in them. Vizio will have it's own electronics and gaming chip in their TVs so depending on your time frame and the timing of typical november TV deals - it might be worth waiting to compare all three's reviews if you aren't limited to getting the smallest available in the 48" CX's size.
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Good to know. I might just wait it out; I've already waited half a year...