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LG 48CX

Lateralus said:
I didn’t say that I was going to do anything. I was just spitballing... I’m waiting for confirmed price points and benchmarks/reviews. I see what you’re saying, though. But if it turns out that the 3090 is only 10-15% better than the 3080, that’s gonna be a hard nope. If that’s the case then I’ll get the 3080 and then re-evaluate when the next cards come out. If the 3090 destroys the 3080 then yeah, it would be beneficial to buy it day one assuming you’re willing to keep signaling to Nvidia that price is no object as they start the development of a $2K 4090. :meh:
Click to expand...

I mean the prices are high sure but that's how it is with no serious competition. Intel was selling 8 core cpus for $1000 not too long ago. So I don't really blame nvidia for jacking up prices, any company would.
 
Lateralus said:
I didn’t say that I was going to do anything. I was just spitballing... I’m waiting for confirmed price points and benchmarks/reviews. I see what you’re saying, though. But if it turns out that the 3090 is only 10-15% better than the 3080, that’s gonna be a hard nope. If that’s the case then I’ll get the 3080 and then re-evaluate when the next cards come out. If the 3090 destroys the 3080 then yeah, it would be beneficial to buy it day one assuming you’re willing to keep signaling to Nvidia that price is no object as they start the development of a $2K 4090. :meh:
Click to expand...

I mean, TITAN's have been around for how many generations now? Think of the 3090 as a Titan if it makes you feel better ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. It'll be cheap for a TITAN!

Even if they do release an actual Ampere TITAN card, the basically-confirmed-rumored 3090 specs are sooooooo close to a full GA102 chip an uncut TITAN would barely be any better.
 
MistaSparkul said:
I mean the prices are high sure but that's how it is with no serious competition. Intel was selling 8 core cpus for $1000 not too long ago. So I don't really blame nvidia for jacking up prices, any company would.
Click to expand...

I know, man. I really wish that AMD could pull another Ryzen and be competitive at the top end. Otherwise this crap is going to continue until sales start to fall off at whatever price ceiling causes gamers in large enough numbers to say “Nah.”


mirkendargen said:
I mean, TITAN's have been around for how many generations now? Think of the 3090 as a Titan if it makes you feel better ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. It'll be cheap for a TITAN!

Even if they do release an actual Ampere TITAN card, the basically-confirmed-rumored 3090 specs are sooooooo close to a full GA102 chip an uncut TITAN would barely be any better.
Click to expand...

Ha, yeah I suppose that is one way of looking at it. :D
 
SoCali said:
I swear if Ampere does not have HDMI 2.1, gonna sell this CX because I can't handle 60hz desktop much longer.

It's a real possibility like when the R9 Fury released with HDMI 1.4 ports and I had to use and active adapter.
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken, it's already been confirmed that Hdmi 2.1 will be integrated with Ampere.
 
Based on the leaked specs the 30-35% performance gap between the 3080 and 3090 will probably hold true. Anything less makes no sense based on Nvidia's past releases (1080 to 1080 Ti, 2080 to 2080 Ti). Is that worth $600 when the 3080 is already rumored to be 30% faster than a 2080 Ti? Probably not but gotta wait and see.

The only difference this time around is that it might not sit at the top for 2 years like the 2080 Ti did. Given the huge TDP, a refresh is inevitable so those who sold 2080 Ti's recently for basically what they paid 2 years ago like me might not get the same opportunity.

2080 Ti was the most brain dead purchase I've ever made. I paid $1200ish in 2018 and basically used/abused it for 2 years with an out of pocket cost of $100 to "rent" after selling it.
 
mirkendargen said:
I know, but 48Gbps gets over the 4k120hz 10bit 4:4:4 hump that DP 1.4 can't at least. I haven't done the math but I think 48Gbps would get you to 4k 144hz 10bit 4:4:4 if/when there are displays that support that.

And it'll take more than a 3090 to push demanding games above 4k 144FPS....so by the time the lack of DP 2.0 bandwidth is a problem you'll need a new GPU anyway.
Click to expand...

And yet the games that will benefit most from 144+ FPS will likely run just fine on a 3090-ex. Fortnite, CSGO

So it still seems weird that the 30xx won't be able to capitalize on the esports market but maybe AMD also won't put DP 2.0 in their GPUs this year.
 
mirkendargen said:
I know, but 48Gbps gets over the 4k120hz 10bit 4:4:4 hump that DP 1.4 can't at least. I haven't done the math but I think 48Gbps would get you to 4k 144hz 10bit 4:4:4 if/when there are displays that support that.

And it'll take more than a 3090 to push demanding games above 4k 144FPS....so by the time the lack of DP 2.0 bandwidth is a problem you'll need a new GPU anyway.
Click to expand...

DP 1.4 + DSC is capable of outputting 4K 120 Hz 10-bit 4:4:4 with HDR, as evidenced by the Club3D adapter. So that is not necessarily an issue, but DP 2.0 would allow for above 4K high refresh rate displays, new ultrawide formats (e.g. 8K x 2160) and so on. It's going to be a chicken and egg situation where DP 2.0 displays won't come to market when there are no DP 2.0 sources available. This of course has zero bearing on TVs like the LG OLEDs which will keep using HDMI 2.1 but means less innovation and competition on the desktop display market unless they start adopting HDMI 2.1 as well. And before someone says "oh but I will only use large OLEDs so I don't care", for a lot of other people this is not going to be the case. More options is good.

The new GPUs look to only have 1x HDMI 2.1 port as is, maybe some vendors do models with two ports but those will most likely be more expensive models. Two ports would be convenient for quickly switching between VRR and BFI on the CX 48, each input using the lowest input lag Game mode. There is a very slight difference in input lag using other modes with Instant Game Response. The other option is to use ColorControl app to operate the LG TV menus to toggle BFI on, that works too.
 
Hi guys. I just got my 48CX in. I have to get a VESA adapter before I can test this on my freestanding Obutto monitor stand. But I need to ask about HDMI cables.

I want to achieve 4K @120hz. Plus hopefully HDR. I did purchase the CLUB 3d hdmi-display port adapter that I learned about in this thread. That gets here next week. But if this 48CX sings for gaming, I will end up buying two more for triple 48CX's for my race sim rig. Which is going to be very wide. My PC tower will be under the right screen. So I need to get a decent length cable for where the far left 48CX would end up (unfortunately the 48CX's HDMI outputs are at the far rear left of the unit).

Are there 12' or 15' cables that are good enough for 4k @120hz + HDR? I probably need a 12' minimum for the left screen (15' would do it for sure), and will be able to use a 9' for the center, and a 6' for the right.

I see a high speed 9.6' cable on Club 3d's site. But I am going to need longer than that for the left 48CX.

Thanks for any help!

EDIT: wondering if these are options for my longer left side TV run to the computer...
https://www.amazon.com/CABLEDECONN-Optical-Supports-HDCP2-2-Projectors/dp/B00XJESNQW/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=club+3d+hdmi+cable&qid=1598709931&sr=8-20&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/BIFALE-Suppo...20hz+hdmi+cable+15+feet&qid=1598713183&sr=8-3
 
Last edited:
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lludson said:
Hi guys. I just got my 48CX in. I have to get a VESA adapter before I can test this on my freestanding Obutto monitor stand. But I need to ask about HDMI cables.

I want to achieve 4K @120hz. Plus hopefully HDR. I did purchase the CLUB 3d hdmi-display port adapter that I learned about in this thread. That gets here next week. But if this 48CX sings for gaming, I will end up buying two more for triple 48CX's for my race sim rig. Which is going to be very wide. My PC tower will be under the right screen. So I need to get a decent length cable for where the far left 48CX would end up (unfortunately the 48CX's HDMI outputs are at the far rear left of the unit).

Are there 12' or 15' cables that are good enough for 4k @120hz + HDR? I probably need a 12' minimum for the left screen (15' would do it for sure), and will be able to use a 9' for the center, and a 6' for the right.

I see a high speed 9.6' cable on Club 3d's site. But I am going to need longer than that for the left 48CX.

Thanks for any help!

EDIT: wondering if these are options for my longer left side TV run to the computer...
https://www.amazon.com/CABLEDECONN-Optical-Supports-HDCP2-2-Projectors/dp/B00XJESNQW/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=club+3d+hdmi+cable&qid=1598709931&sr=8-20&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/BIFALE-Suppo...20hz+hdmi+cable+15+feet&qid=1598713183&sr=8-3
Click to expand...

I'm in the same predicament. My PC is roughly 3m away from the left side of the CX. Based on Club3D's cable length recommendations of 1.8m for 4K/120hz, it's up in the air whether longer cables will work until we have hardware to test.
 
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If anyone's interested, I've created a new version of my ColorControl-app and it's available on GitHub now: https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl
This 1.1.0.0 version adds:
  • Automatically power on/off functionality for LG TV's
  • Extended NVIDIA controller context menu to allow setting color settings manually. Includes bit depth, format, dynamic range and color space. Note that not all combinations are allowed and will result in an error message. Some may also result in a purple screen (RGB format with YUV color space and vice versa)
  • Checkbox to fix blurry/rainbow fonts in Chrome. This is only necessary if you want to use ClearType in Windows, but grayscale anti-aliasing in Chrome. If you have ClearType disabled, just leave this checkbox unchecked.
  • Option to set a shortcut to the blank screen saver
 
I have a question.. can full screen dithering be enabled on the LG TV itself rather than the (nvidia) gpu? and if so, would that allow a dev like you to be able to active and de-activate it on the display itself? Is there also or otherwise any way your app might support 10bit dithering on the gpu too or instead like the app below?

Earlier in the thread I posted a link to an app that is supposed to do color profiles and enable dithering on nvidia gpus but the way it activates the dithering could be better. It uses a check box and you can't see the dithering test unless you disable and re-enable it while at the same time it says you might have to set the app to be enabled on windows start and reboot in order to see if it works.

I always got an error code enabling the dithering anyway but that might be because I'm still running SLI and on 1000 series until I get a 3090. I'll have to try it again with the more modern and singular gpu later this year (on a new OLED to boot). I am hopeful that nvidia someday will add a 10bit + dithering option to their driver controls on their gaming gpus as well but I won't hold my breath. (Someone else in this and the AW55 thread said they got the dithering to work with the app though, as well as people in other forum threads talking about the app).

Nvidia does have support for full dithering control by the user apparently, just not on their gaming cards in windows. So theoretically if they wanted to they could add both 10bit over hdmi and dithering controls at some point. (Maybe we'll get a 10bit internal Lut for windows instead of the current 8bit, unlike Linux's 11bit apparently, someday as well).

Here is a recent method below from 4months ago that has what seems like a good method, though I haven't tried it myself on any of my monitors. I don't represent that app at all so use at your own risk. It was made not just for dithering for for icc color profiles (color management in the may windows update has some bugs though apparently). However it does have dithering controls built in so should be able to use it just for that. The most recent readme update was from January 2020 and the current exe date lists as 2-18-2020.
https://bitbucket.org/CalibrationTools/calibration-tools/src/master/

https://bitbucket.org/CalibrationTools/calibration-tools/downloads/

View attachment 263775

Calibration Tools
Click to expand...
Features

  • Create and edit monitor calibration files: adjust backlight, white balance, overall gamma, shadow detail gamma, 10-band gamma, s-curve, highlights.
  • Enforce separate day/night files with automatic dawn/dusk times and gradual transition during twilight.
  • Test for calibration hijacking in games, and solve with ReShade or borderless full screen windowed mode.
  • Enforce per-game calibration files.
  • Enable dithering on Nvidia GPUs for smoother gradients.
  • Portable, malware-free, ad-free, nag-free.
System Requirements

  • 64-bit Windows, Vista or later.
  • Logged in as a Windows administrator.
  • Video card supporting gamma tables for monitor calibration.
  • DirectX June 2010 update (www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=8109).
  • Note: Windows 10 version 1903 (May 2019) contains bugs in its colour management system which affect Calibration Tools. For possible solutions, see here.
Click to expand...


---------------------------
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...-to-port-dithering-from-nvidia-x-ser/2421010/
---------------------------
User - sonicblue83
You can try the app below which applies it through the Nvidia API instead of the reg key.

https://tiny.cc/CalibrationTools

https://i1.lensdump.com/i/j10v6m.png

If the Nvidia API status is success (code 0) click Check Gradient. If the gradient is unsmooth, try a hard reboot. If it's still unsmooth, see this post:
https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/windows-10-1903-please-read/

The app also includes some automatic behaviour to try and prevent dithering from dropping out:
1. Disabling dithering at Windows shutdown
2. Refreshing dithering at display mode change
3. Refreshing dithering at display hardware change
4. Refreshing dithering at entering/exiting low power state
5. Refreshing dithering at game launch/exit

1 seems to be necessary to prevent it from dropping out after a reboot.
Only 1, 3 and 4 are enabled by default, as 2 and 5 have caveats.
You can still enable 2 and 5 through the Config.ini file, although it's not recommended. For details open the Readme file and see Config.ini settings - Dithering.
If for some reason the Enable Dithering checkbox is greyed out, try DitherForceSupport=1 in Config.ini.

Mozgus
Nice! This works quite well. Shame it cant apply it to individual monitors though. Have to unload this config when I want to use my 2nd monitor.

sonicblue83
Yes, unfortunately per-monitor calibration is not supported (see Readme file Q&A General section for explanation). However you can still control which monitors receive the calibration, if that is of use to you. For example to only apply calibration to monitor 1, set MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1 in Config.ini. To only apply to monitors 1 and 3, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,3 To apply to 1 and 3, but unload monitor 2, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,-2,3 (minus means unload). Then restart the app and use the Hijack Test tool to confirm the intended monitors are(n't) turning green. Dithering is always applied to all monitors and that behaviour cannot be changed. If you only want to use the app for dithering, and use another app for calibration, just don't select any calibration files to begin with. If you have already selected calibration files and want to stop applying them, right click tray icon -> Factory Reset.
--------------------
Click to expand...

Looking forward to messing with your app, it looks good. Thanks.
 
lludson said:
Hi guys. I just got my 48CX in. I have to get a VESA adapter before I can test this on my freestanding Obutto monitor stand. But I need to ask about HDMI cables.

I want to achieve 4K @120hz. Plus hopefully HDR. I did purchase the CLUB 3d hdmi-display port adapter that I learned about in this thread. That gets here next week. But if this 48CX sings for gaming, I will end up buying two more for triple 48CX's for my race sim rig. Which is going to be very wide. My PC tower will be under the right screen. So I need to get a decent length cable for where the far left 48CX would end up (unfortunately the 48CX's HDMI outputs are at the far rear left of the unit).

Are there 12' or 15' cables that are good enough for 4k @120hz + HDR? I probably need a 12' minimum for the left screen (15' would do it for sure), and will be able to use a 9' for the center, and a 6' for the right.

I see a high speed 9.6' cable on Club 3d's site. But I am going to need longer than that for the left 48CX.

Thanks for any help!
Click to expand...

You really won't know until you try a longer cable, but they do recommend max 2m cables. Doesn't mean that longer cables won't work but their quality will be more of a factor based on running 8-10m HDMI 2.0 cables to my TV. The HDMI 4 input poking out the back is probably your best bet for getting cables to reach. The port is the same as the rest, just different location.

Also when you get the adapter, contact Club3D asking for a newer firmware. It does a lot to make it work better but is still far from perfect.
 
VinnieM said:
If anyone's interested, I've created a new version of my ColorControl-app and it's available on GitHub now: https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl
This 1.1.0.0 version adds:
  • Automatically power on/off functionality for LG TV's
  • Extended NVIDIA controller context menu to allow setting color settings manually. Includes bit depth, format, dynamic range and color space. Note that not all combinations are allowed and will result in an error message. Some may also result in a purple screen (RGB format with YUV color space and vice versa)
  • Checkbox to fix blurry/rainbow fonts in Chrome. This is only necessary if you want to use ClearType in Windows, but grayscale anti-aliasing in Chrome. If you have ClearType disabled, just leave this checkbox unchecked.
  • Option to set a shortcut to the blank screen saver
Click to expand...
I've been trying to use this. Shutting the TV off works, but it never wakes. Log would indicate it's sending magic packet fine.

Have WOL set up in HomeAssistant as well, and that does work.
 
tacos4me said:
I've been trying to use this. Shutting the TV off works, but it never wakes. Log would indicate it's sending magic packet fine.

Have WOL set up in HomeAssistant as well, and that does work.
Click to expand...
Thanks for testing.
What LG model do you have? If the log is indicating it's sending the magic packet, there should also be a MAC-address in the log. Could you check if it's equivalent to the address that is listed under the connection properties on the TV?
By the way, maybe it's better to post issues with the app here: https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl/issues
I think most of the readers here will appreciate that :)
 
VinnieM said:
Thanks for testing.
What LG model do you have? If the log is indicating it's sending the magic packet, there should also be a MAC-address in the log. Could you check if it's equivalent to the address that is listed under the connection properties on the TV?
By the way, maybe it's better to post issues with the app here: https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl/issues
I think most of the readers here will appreciate that :)
Click to expand...
48CX. Fired up Wireshark, despite the log, app never sends packet.

I am capturing packets from HomeAssistant, which works fine.

I do have quite a bit happening on this box network wise, is it possible to specify adapter binding somewhere?
 
Last edited:
tacos4me said:
48CX. Fired up Wireshark, despite the log, app never sends packet.

I am capturing packets from HomeAssistant, which works fine.

I do have quite a bit happening on this box network wise, is it possible to specify adapter binding somewhere?
Click to expand...
Do you see a line in the log similar to this:

Code: 
2020-08-30 21:08:23.9285|DEBUG|ColorControl.WOL|Opening network device: \Device\NPF_{B19EF94B-392C-4A85-8094-9F4A9EA82131}

If not, maybe I'm filtering out too many network interfaces. Currently I skip all adapters that don't have a gateway address specified. Maybe I should not do that, but I wanted to omit all "virtual" adapters that likely wouldn't be connected with the TV anyway.
I can disable this filter in the next release. I don't think sending the magic packet over all network interfaces is going to cause a problem.
 
kasakka said:
You really won't know until you try a longer cable, but they do recommend max 2m cables. Doesn't mean that longer cables won't work but their quality will be more of a factor based on running 8-10m HDMI 2.0 cables to my TV. The HDMI 4 input poking out the back is probably your best bet for getting cables to reach. The port is the same as the rest, just different location.

Also when you get the adapter, contact Club3D asking for a newer firmware. It does a lot to make it work better but is still far from perfect.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks so much! Thanks for the tip!
 
How can I get my CX to remember the last device it used. For some reason it randomly turns my PS4 on first when I POWER on my PC.
 
Can anyone speak to the severity of the near-black gamma shift issues w/ gsync enabled? I’m ok with minor issues here and there, but some comments I’ve read seem to indicate it’s pretty bad.

I’ll closing to pulling the trigger on a CX, with this being the only issue holding me back. Would be using a 48" exclusively for PC gaming with one of the upcoming Ampere cards.
 
es-wi said:
Can anyone speak to the severity of the near-black gamma shift issues w/ gsync enabled? I’m ok with minor issues here and there, but some comments I’ve read seem to indicate it’s pretty bad.

I’ll closing to pulling the trigger on a CX, with this being the only issue holding me back. Would be using a 48" exclusively for PC gaming with one of the upcoming Ampere cards.
Click to expand...

I have yet to encounter this near black issue. I've already done testing on it using in game gamma adjustment sliders and it shows no raised near blacks. However, now that I've been playing Guild Wars 2 quite a bit, what I HAVE been experiencing was some subtle flickering in this game in dark scenes and at low frame rates. Kinda sucks because I can't run the game at high fps all the time due to poor optimization so if this is a low frame rate thing and the display doesn't like being around the low end of the gsync window where it has to transition in and out of LFC then that's a real bummer. But as far as near blacks being raised and staying raised with VRR on....no I haven't encountered this.
 
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MistaSparkul said:
I have yet to encounter this near black issue. I've already done testing on it using in game gamma adjustment sliders and it shows no raised near blacks. However, now that I've been playing Guild Wars 2 quite a bit, what I HAVE been experiencing was some subtle flickering in this game in dark scenes and at low frame rates. Kinda sucks because I can't run the game at high fps all the time due to poor optimization so if this is a low frame rate thing and the display doesn't like being around the low end of the gsync window where it has to transition in and out of LFC then that's a real bummer. But as far as near blacks being raised and staying raised with VRR on....no I haven't encountered this.
Click to expand...

I've also never seen this. I haven't gone explicitly looking for it, but given how black real black is, raised black would stick out in contrast to the bezel and I think I'd notice it.
 
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I'll let you know once I get my Ampere card since I can't do VRR on this TV with a 1080 ti. I'll do some extensive testing, in a dark room, SDR mode.

HDR is too much of a mess for me to deal with for now and I have no clue how to calibrate it.
 
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From TFTC's review of the Samsung G7:

1598907064300.png


I believe this is the same kind of flickering that I am experiencing in Guild Wars 2 on my CX, where running at frame rates near the bottom end of the VRR window and transitioning in and out of LFC is causing it. Not sure if LG can fix this with a firmware update if the issue is gsync itself.
 
Just going by the avsforum posts it sounded like it was a thing. Vincent at HDTVtest mentioned it in some of his LG OLED videos.
According to all of those sources:

-- There was a near black problem with flashing.
-- LG released a near black fix which applied dithering to the near black levels (of color/black) .. I think it only applied/forced dithering to those values as a sort of "noise" to mask it.
-- LG realized that detail was being lost in scenes due to the dithering, so switched to a black flattening method rather than a dithering method, in order to avoid the flickering without losing detail.
-- Reports from Vincent of HDTVTest and some people on AVSforum's LG OLED gaming thread are that the black flattening "fix" workaround is being bypassed with VRR active ever since VRR was added in (september?) 2019.
-- Some claimed this makes near black areas, for example a white character on a black background, have a lightened black area around the white objects in the scene. If this were true, it would be localized heightened blacks so adjusting your gamma would not be a perfect way to adjust for that.

Not having one yet I can't really weigh in one way or the other from personal experience. I do tend to trust vincent Teoh of HDTVTest though and he said the workaround was being bypassed with VRR active on the C9's and CX's.
If it's so minimal that you have to really look hard for it (outside of something like MisaSparkul's flashing issue), the heightened black "halo"/outline areas probably wouldn't bother too me much but hopefully LG will fix it in a future firmware.

I don't know if you are following along in that thread or if it's just coincidence that you brought it up now since they are talking about it currently again here:
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/2020-lg-cx–gx-dedicated-gaming-thread-consoles-and-pc.3138274/page-59

edit: yes I see your same nickname questioning on that avsforum thread
 
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When this near black VRR issue was first brought up, people were making it seem like it's some super obvious and easy to spot issue that sticks out like a sore thumb and completely ruins the CX. If this was really the case then I'm pretty sure many of us would have noticed it already, this is [H] after all. The fact that it is hardly being brought up either means this issue is actually very subtle and the ones who were first complaining about it are way over exaggerating, or not everyone has this problem. I already did the silly little test with gamma sliders where I launched the game with Instant Game Response turned off, adjusted the gamma slider so that the reference icon was just 1 tick away from being visible, flipped Instant Game Response back on, and the icon still remained invisible in the end. So at this point I don't think I have the VRR problem, and probably so do many others. However, I just watched Umbrella Academy S2 on Netflix which is a Dolby Vision show, and I definitely have raised blacks with DV for sure.

 
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My understanding was that everyone has it, but the gamma settings you use can effectively hide it.

But I don't know, there is also a lot of variance from panel to panel.
 
kalston said:
My understanding was that everyone has it, but the gamma settings you use can effectively hide it.

But I don't know, there is also a lot of variance from panel to panel.
Click to expand...

I don't think so. AVSForum shows near black gamma being elevated when using 2.2 gamma and HDTV Test shows it being raised when using 2.4 gamma. Most people are going to be using 2.2 or 2.4 gamma on their CX's. I was using 2.4 but I can re-test it using 2.2. But regardless of whether everyone has it or not, it's pretty obvious that this issue is a lot more subtle and was initially being over exaggerated as how to bad it actually is. Like it's so obvious and bad that it makes games "look like shit" and "OLED's without true blacks" etc etc etc. Something that obvious would not go unnoticed around here.

1598909363589.png

1598909376337.png
 
2.4 is way too dark since most content (except a few movies here and there) is mastered for 2.2 so it would be hard to notice with that I think.
 
kalston said:
2.4 is way too dark since most content (except a few movies here and there) is mastered for 2.2 so it would be hard to notice with that I think.
Click to expand...

I was using 2.4 since RTings says that's the best target for dark rooms, which is what I use my CX in. But yeah I can redo the test with 2.2 gamma instead.


1598909932385.png


"a gamma of 2.4 is also appropriate for very dark rooms"
 
Gamma is a headache. You'll find different conflicting recommendations everywhere. I just like 2.2 as a middle ground personally. Even in a dark room with 2.4 there is too much loss of detail for my liking. Except in some blu-rays and games that look washed out with 2.2, lol. But those are rare.
 
joeh_1974 said:
Looks like GAINWARD branded 3090s and 3080s were posted to their website too early, and subsequently removed. Screengrabs were captured however. Confirmed HDMI 2.1 on both. Interestingly enough though is that the listing for the 3080 states 2 8-pin connectors for the power requirement.

https://www.tweaktown.com/news/7485...rce-rtx-3090-3080-phoenix-official/index.html
Click to expand...

I just can't wait for nvidia to finally add 10bit output over HDMI so everyone can finally shut up about it lol.
 
MistaSparkul said:
From TFTC's review of the Samsung G7:

View attachment 274998

I believe this is the same kind of flickering that I am experiencing in Guild Wars 2 on my CX, where running at frame rates near the bottom end of the VRR window and transitioning in and out of LFC is causing it. Not sure if LG can fix this with a firmware update if the issue is gsync itself.
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On my C9 i once saw some flickering in the multiplayer menu of COD MW. I have never seen it while playing. People complaining about it while playing the new control DLC for example. This game has very dark scenes. And also there i see no flashing or flickering, even at different gamma levels.
 
mirkendargen said:
Founder's editions are using the new 12pin. The leaked non-Founder's cards so far have been regular 2x8pin. I'm surprised they aren't doing 2x8 1x6pin at least for a 350w TDP card, if not 3x8pin. My 2080ti is 2x8 1x6, and there were 3x8 2080ti's.
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I'd expect a lot of AIB partners to go 2x8pin since that's more "normal".

Honestly, I forget what my PSU even has plug wise; I'm not even sure I have 2 8-pin connectors. :/
 
mirkendargen said:
Founder's editions are using the new 12pin. The leaked non-Founder's cards so far have been regular 2x8pin. I'm surprised they aren't doing 2x8 1x6pin at least for a 350w TDP card, if not 3x8pin. My 2080ti is 2x8 1x6, and there were 3x8 2080ti's.
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I skipped the 2000 series entirely because to me it was incremental and so was mediocre upgrade wise. Compare that to a die shrink, hdmi 2.1 and other features in the 3000 series. I'll be switching from two 1080ti sc hybrids to a single 3090 neptune if all goes well. Even if the neptune took 400w it would still be 100w less than what my cards could potentially use now. I have 4 spare molex from those two cards so as long as I can get an adapter if necessary I should be good.

Btw, asus released some 3000 series specs with dual hdmi 2.1 outs
https://videocardz.com/press-release/asus-announces-geforce-rtx-30-series

e4bQn3V.png

Nvidia thing starts shortly but will prob be a lot of bravado and walking down memory lane at first:
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/special-event/
 
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