LG 48CX

Has anyone found a solution to the screen shift bug in the settings yet?

i.e. where you keep having to go into "All settings" -> "Picture" -> "OLED Screensaver" -> turn Screen Shift ON then OFF. ?

I'm sure when I first got my monitor, I didn't have this problem... I'm convinced it only started when I reset the monitor and set it up from scratch.

And I haven't yet got the latest firmware so I don't know if this has been fixed yet, I'm still on 03.10.20
Definitely not fixed. :(
 
Has anyone found a solution to the screen shift bug in the settings yet?

i.e. where you keep having to go into "All settings" -> "Picture" -> "OLED Screensaver" -> turn Screen Shift ON then OFF. ?

I'm sure when I first got my monitor, I didn't have this problem... I'm convinced it only started when I reset the monitor and set it up from scratch.

And I haven't yet got the latest firmware so I don't know if this has been fixed yet, I'm still on 03.10.20
Definitely not fixed. :(

Turn off Quickstart+
 
Turn off Quickstart+

HesRight.jpg
 
Actually, I think 03.10.44 has solved the issue with screen shift - as soon as it updated, it automatically switched it off (properly).

Subsequent to this, I've also turned off Quickstart+ whatever that is...
 
Actually, I think 03.10.44 has solved the issue with screen shift - as soon as it updated, it automatically switched it off (properly).

Subsequent to this, I've also turned off Quickstart+ whatever that is...

I just tested with Quickstart+ back on and at 4K 120 Hz there is definitely blurriness that goes away by toggling the Screen shift from off to on and back to off. This is an easy way to tell that the bug still exists. The 4K 120 Hz blurriness with Screen shift on is of course another bug in itself.

If QuickStart+ is off, it remembers the Screen shift setting correctly and it remains on or off even after turning off the TV and turning it back on.

QuickStart+ keeps the TV in a higher power mode when off so it will start faster and the TV UI is instantly accessible. This is basically a "nice to have" feature and saves you some seconds, making using the TV easier. With a computer you aren't touching the settings that much so it doesn't matter if it takes a few more seconds to show picture when you start using it, for me I can type in my password in the time it takes to fire up and show picture.
 
In theory this should be possible with HDMI CEC but I don't know how to use that on Windows. The other option is using the LG WebOS API which is incredibly poorly documented. Vinz80 from AVSForum made a great app called ColorControl that is able to interface with the LG API and you could possibly use that to send a "power on" command, maybe.

I thought I would control my LG a lot with my computer but in the end I just have the remote on my desk similar to how I would have a keyboard or mouse. It's easy to reach for that and do things. I use the ColorControl app mainly to access the HDMI diagnostics and override menus because it's easier than inputting the commands from the remote.

ColorControl is a great app if you want to enable dithering or use YUV444 on Nvidia GPUs btw. The issue with HDMI and YUV444 might be entirely simply NVCP not supporting the option in its menus for inexplicable reasons because when you use ColorControl to set YUV444, NVCP just shows an empty value for that but it works just fine.
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way ;)

Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient :eek:

Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.

I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.
 
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way ;)

Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient :eek:

Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.

I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.


I think someone earlier in this thread said you could send a WOL magic packet to the TV when it was off and it would turn on. Not sure if that requires quickstart+ to be enabled or not, and if it works over both wired and wireless.
 
Thanks for mentioning my app here. I'm Vinz80 from AVSForum by the way ;)

Coincidentally I've been busy to automatically power off/on the TV through my app, but so far only powering off seems to work reliably. It appears that when you turn off the TV and you hear the relay clicking, the network interface is shutdown as well so it is not possible to send a power on command again. I've tried the Connection->Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi option, but that didn't work. Powering off does however work. My app can detect if you suspend or shutdown your computer and send a power off command to the TV. There are still some timing related issues that need to be resolved for it to be production worthy though. When Windows is suspending, apps get only a limited window to execute so my app needs to be already connected to the TV or it's not fast enough to send a power off command. And there's a nasty issue in Windows that you can't detect if a computer is restarting or shutting down so the TV will sometimes power off when you are rebooting, not very convenient :eek:

Besides the above, I've added functionality to edit the color settings manually via the context menu. This allows you to change bit depth, color format and dynamic range of a setting. And I've added a color space setting as well which enables you, for example, to send the BT.2020 color space while being in SDR. This of course results in very saturated colors, but maybe some of you like that.

I don't know exactly when the new version will be available, but I'll mention it as soon as its ready.

Thanks for all your hard work. Your app has become really useful for me as I have worked with Club3D to resolve the issues I have had with their adapter and they seem to be finally making some progress. Being able to macro open the HDMI diagnostics menu and HDMI overridde menu has been very helpful. I feel like your app with just the Nvidia color preset stuff is things that should have been part of Nvidia Control Panel from the start as some 4K displays have issues like not being able to output 10-bit color at higher than 98 Hz refresh rate due to bandwidth limitations.
 
I think someone earlier in this thread said you could send a WOL magic packet to the TV when it was off and it would turn on. Not sure if that requires quickstart+ to be enabled or not, and if it works over both wired and wireless.
I've experimented a bit with Wake-on-LAN today and it's working if the "Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi" option is engaged. It works over ethernet (wired) as well and Quickstart+ is not needed.

Thanks for all your hard work. Your app has become really useful for me as I have worked with Club3D to resolve the issues I have had with their adapter and they seem to be finally making some progress. Being able to macro open the HDMI diagnostics menu and HDMI overridde menu has been very helpful. I feel like your app with just the Nvidia color preset stuff is things that should have been part of Nvidia Control Panel from the start as some 4K displays have issues like not being able to output 10-bit color at higher than 98 Hz refresh rate due to bandwidth limitations.
No problem. I have the Club3D adapter as well. I take it you received some updated firmwares from them? I managed to install the firmware that was posted a couple of weeks back on AVSForum. I didn't improve much, but I don't have a lot of problems with it. The most annoying problem is that when the TV is turned on while a lower resolution/refresh rate is active (like the UEFI/Windows loading screen) and Windows switches over to 4K@120Hz, it displays a no signal found message. If I turn the TV off and on again, it displays 4K@120Hz without a problem. Maybe it's a TV issue, who knows.
 
I've experimented a bit with Wake-on-LAN today and it's working if the "Mobile TV On->Turn on via Wi-Fi" option is engaged. It works over ethernet (wired) as well and Quickstart+ is not needed.

Sounds amazing, cant wait to try this out. Turning on and off all the time is becoming annoying...
 
Hey guys! I have been on the fence still after reading all of these 95 pages, am I right in thinking there is not a HUGE difference between the 55" CX vs last years model? I have the 2015 Samsung JS TV and REALLY wanted an upgrade so I could get better picture, lower latency with G-Sync with the new Nvidia GPU and FINALLY get 60 fps in skyrim at 4k.
 
Hey guys! I have been on the fence still after reading all of these 95 pages, am I right in thinking there is not a HUGE difference between the 55" CX vs last years model? I have the 2015 Samsung JS TV and REALLY wanted an upgrade so I could get better picture, lower latency with G-Sync with the new Nvidia GPU and FINALLY get 60 fps in skyrim at 4k.

If you are looking for a 55" or above might as well buy C9 or CX depending on which is cheaper or better available. 120 Hz BFI is the only new feature really worth mentioning on the CX. I have a 48" CX and 65" C9 and can't tell them apart in terms of image quality etc.
 
No problem. I have the Club3D adapter as well. I take it you received some updated firmwares from them? I managed to install the firmware that was posted a couple of weeks back on AVSForum. I didn't improve much, but I don't have a lot of problems with it. The most annoying problem is that when the TV is turned on while a lower resolution/refresh rate is active (like the UEFI/Windows loading screen) and Windows switches over to 4K@120Hz, it displays a no signal found message. If I turn the TV off and on again, it displays 4K@120Hz without a problem. Maybe it's a TV issue, who knows.

Definitely contact Club3D. I have received several firmwares from them and the latest one (v1.02) did a lot to solve my issues with resolution switching and output.
 
Hey guys! I have been on the fence still after reading all of these 95 pages, am I right in thinking there is not a HUGE difference between the 55" CX vs last years model? I have the 2015 Samsung JS TV and REALLY wanted an upgrade so I could get better picture, lower latency with G-Sync with the new Nvidia GPU and FINALLY get 60 fps in skyrim at 4k.

Vizio will also be releasing 55" and 65" 120Hz hdmi 2.1 OLED TVs with LG panels in them. Vizio will have it's own electronics and gaming chip in their TVs so depending on your time frame and the timing of typical november TV deals - it might be worth waiting to compare all three's reviews if you aren't limited to getting the smallest available in the 48" CX's size.
 
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Vizio will also be releasing 55" and 65" 120Hz hdmi 2.1 OLED TVs with LG panels in them. Vizio will have it's own electronics and gaming chip in their TVs so depending on your time frame and the timing of typical november TV deals - it might be worth waiting to compare all three's reviews if you aren't limited to getting the smallest available in the 48" CX's size.

Good to know. I might just wait it out; I've already waited half a year...
 
At this point you might as well wait a few months for the new GPUs to come out and for black friday sales on OLEDs (if that happens this year given the pandemic).
 
The founders/default one will be out at some point but it might take longer for some of the other models like the neptune one I'm interested in. There could also be +$200 or more price hikes at first from vendors due to "limited availability" and OOS periods. Right now things are at "insider rumor yet likely exposed" phase still as far as I know, details wise but we do know they are due to come out and that nvidia is doing a "showcase event" september 1st.

https://www.trustedreviews.com/news/nvidia-ampere-release-date-price-specs-3972062

We should get some good november pricing deals on OLED TVs. I don't think covid-19 will affect that but who knows. Some or all of the november deals could be the 55" and larger models, and in some short time windows for the deals as people eat them up. The vizio's default retail pricing will be lower than LGs regular pricing to start with anyway if you are putting them into consideration before deciding. They will have a different gaming chip and electronics which might be good or bad by comparison. Will have to see some reviews.

I'm going to wait for a deal and for the smoke to clear on the reviews of a few things, depending on the timing of everything. I'll still probably end up with a 48" CX just for the smaller size though.
 
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Just a friendly reminder. HDMI 2.1 4K @ 120hz is out within a handful of weeks guys :) nVidia and AMD both.

I'm sure the AMD top car will be around $900 - $1000 ... nVidia 3090 around $1550 with tax.

I am sooooo excited. I am positive that I will be able to run COD Warzone at 120FPS @ 4K with zero issues in the performance dept.
 
Just a friendly reminder. HDMI 2.1 4K @ 120hz is out within a handful of weeks guys :) nVidia and AMD both.

I'm sure the AMD top car will be around $900 - $1000 ... nVidia 3090 around $1550 with tax.

I am sooooo excited. I am positive that I will be able to run COD Warzone at 120FPS @ 4K with zero issues in the performance dept.

Depends on if it's a paper release or not. Actual availability might be a shitshow with scalpers, early adopter extra high prices, out of stock everywhere unless you are putting things into your cart at 4 AM and can buy it within 30 seconds.

I justified the 2080 Ti to myself a few years back by 1080 Ti used prices being very high in my country, 2080 not being any faster and cheaper end 2080 Ti was just a bit more expensive than a good 2080 at the time. I don't think I will be able to justify a 3090 to myself it the rumored prices end up being true. In my country if a 2080 Ti is currently still selling for around 1300 euros for an ASUS Strix and I am definitely not paying that much for a GPU.

Since I am already on the 4K 120 Hz train with the Club3D adapter, I can tell it is very nice in the games that can run at those rates and of course it's more pleasant on the desktop too. Doom Eternal for me is one of the few games that can actually maintain 90-120 fps fairly consistently but even on games that are just above 60 fps it can help avoid tearing and being able to go to say 70-80 fps is still an improvement over 60.
 
hi,

did anyone get a cx48 without vertical banding mainly with <15% grey?

on mine it is quite clearly visible (dark room, oled light 10) in games (e.g. hunt showdown with lots of dark scenes for which the oled should be perfect for) - which sucks.

can easily be confirmed with e.g.:

.

i have no other issues (e.g. stuck pixels), thinking about exchanging it if its not a common issue...
 
hi,

did anyone get a cx48 without vertical banding mainly with <15% grey?

on mine it is quite clearly visible (dark room, oled light 10) in games (e.g. hunt showdown with lots of dark scenes for which the oled should be perfect for) - which sucks.

can easily be confirmed with e.g.:

.

i have no other issues (e.g. stuck pixels), thinking about exchanging it if its not a common issue...


100% no vertical banding? Don't think anyone has that, even the cleanest screen has some tiny amount of vertical banding. But yours might be more noticeable, some people on AVS forum put some hours on their sets then try a manual refresh to see if it helps even it out. Have a pic by any chance of how the vertical banding is?
 
hi,

did anyone get a cx48 without vertical banding mainly with <15% grey?

on mine it is quite clearly visible (dark room, oled light 10) in games (e.g. hunt showdown with lots of dark scenes for which the oled should be perfect for) - which sucks.

can easily be confirmed with e.g.:

.

i have no other issues (e.g. stuck pixels), thinking about exchanging it if its not a common issue...


Can't see any significant banding on mine with that video at any stage of the video. I have a good amount of hours on mine because it's been used as a desktop display.

I have seen people on other forums drive themselves and others crazy talking about banding. Common recommendation seems to be to check again after you have a good amount of hours on it. Of course you may always end up with a particularly bad one.
 
I don't think anyones 48" has prominent vertical banding. What they all do have is 2-3 horizontal bands. Probably from what's left of them to cut from the 77".
 
here are some example pictures (taken with an iphone 11 - 2 seconds exposure). don't mind the small white dot near center - its a tiny reflection from behind.

IMG_0233.JPEG
IMG_0234.JPEG
IMG_0235.JPEG
IMG_0236.JPEG
IMG_0237.JPEG

how to I check the operating hours on an EU model? its been running for about 50 hours.
 
Depends on if it's a paper release or not. Actual availability might be a shitshow with scalpers, early adopter extra high prices, out of stock everywhere unless you are putting things into your cart at 4 AM and can buy it within 30 seconds.

I justified the 2080 Ti to myself a few years back by 1080 Ti used prices being very high in my country, 2080 not being any faster and cheaper end 2080 Ti was just a bit more expensive than a good 2080 at the time. I don't think I will be able to justify a 3090 to myself it the rumored prices end up being true. In my country if a 2080 Ti is currently still selling for around 1300 euros for an ASUS Strix and I am definitely not paying that much for a GPU.

Since I am already on the 4K 120 Hz train with the Club3D adapter, I can tell it is very nice in the games that can run at those rates and of course it's more pleasant on the desktop too. Doom Eternal for me is one of the few games that can actually maintain 90-120 fps fairly consistently but even on games that are just above 60 fps it can help avoid tearing and being able to go to say 70-80 fps is still an improvement over 60.

Playing more games lately, the lack of VRR on the adapter is a huge dealbreaker for me. Yeah I know as long as you CAN stick to games where you always maintain 70+ fps at all times then it's not so big of a deal. But recently I went back to Guild Wars 2 and even on hardware that should be able to brute force that game (3700x + 2080 Ti), it's less than stellar optimization means I was dropping into the 40's in a lot of areas. Gsync helped out a lot in maintaining smoothness throughout the wildly fluctuation frame rates and that's not something I'm willing to give up anymore.
 
here are some example pictures (taken with an iphone 11 - 2 seconds exposure). don't mind the small white dot near center - its a tiny reflection from behind.

View attachment 273327
View attachment 273328
View attachment 273329
View attachment 273330
View attachment 273331

how to I check the operating hours on an EU model? its been running for about 50 hours.

Mine had more of this when it was newer. I can't see any at all anymore, I'm at 599 hours (yeah I'm at the computer a lot!).
 
This is mine within 50 hours of new but looks way worse due to the camera. There are basically no vertical bands visible to the eye but the TV does have a terrible green tint out the box that I corrected with calibration.
 

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Do you guys leave screen shift on or off on your TV? It's very noticeable especially on the desktop and looks awkward and is annoying at times when the image is not aligned properly. Will it actually reduce the chances of burn in?
 
Hey guys! I have been on the fence still after reading all of these 95 pages, am I right in thinking there is not a HUGE difference between the 55" CX vs last years model? I have the 2015 Samsung JS TV and REALLY wanted an upgrade so I could get better picture, lower latency with G-Sync with the new Nvidia GPU and FINALLY get 60 fps in skyrim at 4k.

If you have a Microcenter near you, they carry brand new reconditioned LG C9 55" for $999 that come with the full one year warranty. Mine was brand new in the box, new remote, new everything. Best deal out there for an amazing $999.
 
Do you guys leave screen shift on or off on your TV? It's very noticeable especially on the desktop and looks awkward and is annoying at times when the image is not aligned properly. Will it actually reduce the chances of burn in?

I don't. Stuff that would be a "burn in risk" that I do are things like windows sitting around during the work day while I'm WFH and similar productivity/coding things, and moving them around a few pixels wouldn't change that.
 
Do you guys leave screen shift on or off on your TV? It's very noticeable especially on the desktop and looks awkward and is annoying at times when the image is not aligned properly. Will it actually reduce the chances of burn in?

Pretty much have to leave it off because it's bugged in 4K 120 Hz and causes blurriness. I would not mind that it cuts a bit of the screen off otherwise. I don't think it's hugely important for burn-in reduction compared to just running at lower brightness, which you would do anyway when not watching HDR content.

I have also disabled automatic static brightness limited via the service menu because it's too annoying for desktop use.
 
can somebody explain to me how exactly the "automatic OLED Light" setting works (Energy Saving)?

what I want to achieve is, that depending on the ambient light, the "OLED Light" setting is adjusted accordingly. Since I seem to prefer a quite low brightness, it would be ideal if i could have an influence on that (e.g. 50 max, no ambient light 10)

Is the following observation correct?:
  • Energy Saving AUTO setting should adjust the brightness (OLED Light) depending on the ambient light
  • Energy Saving AUTO does not set a brightness higher than what has been set manually for the OLED Light setting (before setting AUTO)?
 
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I missed several pages of post, but who is hoping the 3090 can handle MS Flight Sim at 4k? I'm not even sure it will fit my case.

Has anyone played the flight sim on this tv? Got any screenshots?
 
I missed several pages of post, but who is hoping the 3090 can handle MS Flight Sim at 4k? I'm not even sure it will fit my case.

Has anyone played the flight sim on this tv? Got any screenshots?
I'm more interested in Star Wars: Squadrons

Flight Simulator just does not sound interesting to me. But then again, most normal flying doesn't really either, or even most combat flying, because most of it is just keeping the nose of the aircraft pointed at the destination for hours on end.

Further, I'm not sure how much the contrast available is going to make a difference, nor the refresh rates or pixel response. If any non-combat aircraft is changing vectors fast enough for that stuff to make a visible difference, there are problems :D
 
The problem with flight sims is the same with very open world games, or games like GTA V or even WoW (especially on flying mounts) back in the day when you'd mod them to have immensely increased view distances and zoom-out with animated objects viewable in the distances, instead of greying out/fogging/fog of war , low detail past a point and no objects past a point, using terrain and level design to limit view distance, etc. When you get view to the horizon you are going to take a massive frame rate hit. I think MS flight simulator tries to compensate for this by rendering the whole ground as a flat texture past a certain elevation but you are still generally going to get much lower frame rates on games that have very far view distances. You often hear people complain that open world games have lower graphics and stylized graphics for this reason, when really they are showing a lot more things going on. That said, things like mmo's could be much better optimized usually but the point still stands.
 
I swear if Ampere does not have HDMI 2.1, gonna sell this CX because I can't handle 60hz desktop much longer.

It's a real possibility like when the R9 Fury released with HDMI 1.4 ports and I had to use and active adapter.
 
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