LG 48CX

kasakka

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I intend to use this monitor for general PC use and have been reading a lot of people's suggestions. I just wanted to post my preferred settings for others that may be new to this screen. I have tried to achieve a balance of image saturation at the expense of accuracy based on personal preference. Appreciate any feedback.

-Game Mode Settings SDR / HDR
---OLED Light: 80 / 100
---Contrast: 100 / 100
---Color: 70 / 70 (I chose this to match Vibrant mode setting.)
---Color Temperature: Cool / Cool (I chose this because this is most similar to Vibrant mode setting.)
---Dynamic Tone Mapping: - / On (Off/HGiG appear too dim for general PC use. HGiG may be more accurate in bright areas of applicable games and could be toggled as needed.)

WINDOWS 10 SETTINGS
-Misc
---ClearType: Off (This is easiest way I found to minimize rainbow text fringing, which is especially noticeable in Chrome.)
---Power plan: (AMD Ryzen) High Performance
-Display Settings
---HDR: Off (I keep this Off to avoid running OLED Light at 100 constantly, which increases risk of temporary image retention and MAY accelerate brightness loss over time.)
---If HDR On: Set SDR brightness to 10% to avoid automatic brightness limiter going on/off
These are the ones I don't agree with.
  • You are running OLED light very high for SDR.
  • Settings equivalent to Vibrant mode can afaik have more strain on the OLED which is why they are generally not recommended. It's also the least accurate mode so you are really mangling your image quality but you do you.
  • Dynamic tone mapping in PC use should be Off or HGIG. On will again make everything less accurate. Off/HGIG is definitely not too dim, you are most likely just reacting to it being dimmer than On.
  • Cleartype should be kept on. Text looks completely awful with Cleartype off. Chrome generally does not respect Cleartype settings very well and does its own thing. If you are getting rainbow text fringing make sure you are actually in PC mode and have the color space set to RGB. Check the HDMI diagnostics on the TV (11111 in Programme -> Programme settings highlighted) that it is actually outputting RGB.
  • Ryzen High performance might just increase power use for no good reason depending on how it's set. Ryzen Balanced is what I use.
  • SDR brightness slider should be set to have appropriate SDR brightness levels when HDR is enabled. Not to combat ABL.
 

kalston

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Yeah you are pretty much burning your OLED as hard as you can with those settings. It's your choice but you should at least give lower OLED light a chance for SDR. Remember you need to give your eyes times to adjust when you change this setting. And don't use the OLED in an overly bright room, that's really a waste and not where the technology shines anyway.
 

Seel

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Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.
 

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Seel

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Also, about font rendering and all that jazz - I'm running MacType on my 48CX, looks much better than standard Windows grayscale or ClearType font renderer. I would recommend to try it, as it looks to be free and result is very good in my opinion.
 

elvn

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Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.
My LX HD is similar but it is a pole mount and then the arm, so it has a lot more travel space. I'll probably give the LX HD a shot in novermber if I end up with a 48" CX rather than a 55" c9, e9, cx on sale (or a 55" vizio oled). The desk itself has to be strong enough or reinforced as well , that is a lot of torque if you ever lift and extend it.
 

Seel

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The desk itself has to be strong enough or reinforced as well , that is a lot of torque if you ever lift and extend it.
That is true, my desk is about 5 cm (~2 inch) of solid oak with a large metal base plate underneath, I wouldn't recommend to mount TV like this on IKEA`s cardboard honeycomb table.
 

JasonHF

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These are the ones I don't agree with.
  • You are running OLED light very high for SDR.
  • Settings equivalent to Vibrant mode can afaik have more strain on the OLED which is why they are generally not recommended. It's also the least accurate mode so you are really mangling your image quality but you do you.
  • Dynamic tone mapping in PC use should be Off or HGIG. On will again make everything less accurate. Off/HGIG is definitely not too dim, you are most likely just reacting to it being dimmer than On.
  • Cleartype should be kept on. Text looks completely awful with Cleartype off. Chrome generally does not respect Cleartype settings very well and does its own thing. If you are getting rainbow text fringing make sure you are actually in PC mode and have the color space set to RGB. Check the HDMI diagnostics on the TV (11111 in Programme -> Programme settings highlighted) that it is actually outputting RGB.
  • Ryzen High performance might just increase power use for no good reason depending on how it's set. Ryzen Balanced is what I use.
  • SDR brightness slider should be set to have appropriate SDR brightness levels when HDR is enabled. Not to combat ABL.
Yeah, I agree with you on those points.
-The OLED light level could be adjusted down with little compromise, I was just leaving it at default.
-I believer there is increased risk of burn-in using Vibrant color and color temperature settings due to higher saturation assuming you keep static elements on screen for prolonged periods.
-The HGiG or DTM Off issue I was able to compensate for by adjusting gamma. What do you think about doing that or is that defeating the whole purpose?
-ClearType...I have confirmed on the HDMI Diagnostics menu that I am outputting 8-bit RGB. I can tell in a few instances within the Windows 10 File Explorer interface where text looks a little odd but in my experience, the benefits of removing rainbow text fringing in Chrome and Windows 10 UWP apps which I use most frequently outweigh that negative.
-I was adjusting the SDR brightness scaler based on some advice to target SDR within 150 nits brightness range. Do you have any advice on how I can use an SDR brightness//black level test pattern when Windows in HDR?
 

MistaSparkul

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You set the color temperature to cool? Isn't that way too blue? I set it to Warm2 and even then I still had to dial down the blue gain by -11 to get to 6500k.
 

mirkendargen

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You set the color temperature to cool? Isn't that way too blue? I set it to Warm2 and even then I still had to dial down the blue gain by -11 to get to 6500k.
Some people (including me personally) obsess about calibration and things looking "correct". Others just look at it subjectively and what they prefer, and I think people generally prefer bluer whites from screens and redder whites from lights.
 
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IdiotInCharge

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Some people (including me personally) obsess about calibration and thinks looking "correct". Others just look at it subjectively and what they prefer, and I think people generally prefer bluer whites from screens and redder whites from lights.
I'll take it a step further: I want to start from a calibrated point and if I need to do more to make it look subjectively nice, I may do that. Green is not the new purple :D.
 

JasonHF

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You set the color temperature to cool? Isn't that way too blue? I set it to Warm2 and even then I still had to dial down the blue gain by -11 to get to 6500k.
Sometimes I feel like I'm crazy or there is something wrong with my eyes. I can't imagine how the reddish whites on Warm2 can be accurate, not that I am disputing their accuracy. The bluish whites on Medium/Cool temperatures and Standard/Vibrant modes look much better to me. That's why I chose them and I put that disclaimer on there to pont out I'm putting preference to the screen's appeal rather than accuracy. I personally dislike looking at reddish tinted dim windows, especially with the nature of what I do for work.
 

MistaSparkul

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Sometimes I feel like I'm crazy or there is something wrong with my eyes. I can't imagine how the reddish whites on Warm2 can be accurate, not that I am disputing their accuracy. The bluish whites on Medium/Cool temperatures and Standard/Vibrant modes look much better to me. That's why I chose them and I put that disclaimer on there to pont out I'm putting preference to the screen's appeal rather than accuracy. I personally dislike looking at reddish tinted dim windows, especially with the nature of what I do for work.
But 6500k isn't suppose to look reddish though, that's pretty much neutral white. Meaning it should look like a plain white, sort of like if you were to grab a piece of printer paper and put it next to your monitor, the whites should be the same if it was properly calibrated to 6500k.
 

mirkendargen

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But 6500k isn't suppose to look reddish though, that's pretty much neutral white. Meaning it should look like a plain white, sort of like if you were to grab a piece of printer paper and put it next to your monitor, the whites should be the same if it was properly calibrated to 6500k.
Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish. Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?
 

MistaSparkul

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Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish. Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?
Sure that's definitely true but I mean where do you draw the line then? If someone is used to using a really bad TN panel where the reds are actually brown on that monitor then they should just keep trying to see the colors that way because they are used to it? I would say at least give your eyes some time to adjust to 6500k and see if you still prefer the cooler temperature afterwards. Obviously at first glance it's going to look jarring but perhaps after a week or so it will be a different story.
 

JasonHF

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Sure that's definitely true but I mean where do you draw the line then? If someone is used to using a really bad TN panel where the reds are actually brown on that monitor then they should just keep trying to see the colors that way because they are used to it? I would say at least give your eyes some time to adjust to 6500k and see if you still prefer the cooler temperature afterwards. Obviously at first glance it's going to look jarring but perhaps after a week or so it will be a different story.
I am doing that now and I am finding I am starting to adjust. It's probably not healthy for me to be viewing so much blue light anyways.
 

IdiotInCharge

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Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?
It's not completely philosophical- people perceive color differently. Hell, one of my eyes sees color cooler than the other!

Obviously there is science and standards and so on as well, and overall we can generally agree on what green is even if the color has entirely different meanings.
 

kasakka

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Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.
I can't vouch for the Ergotron but my Multibrackets VESA HD arm seems to handle the display pretty well aside from the tilt which needed to be really cranked down and carefully set to the desired angle. I have the arm mounted so that the base of the arm is at the edge of the display. This lets me set as far at the edge of the table to the point that it hits the base part and that is what limits the movement.

I thought I would be moving it a bit if I wanted to play at 3840x1600 but so far I have just put it to its position and left it there. I don't think a monitor arm is particularly ideal for this TV, I think a floor stand that you can move separate from the desk would be best. Maybe one with height adjustment so you can move it up if you want to use a standing desk for example.
 

kasakka

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-I was adjusting the SDR brightness scaler based on some advice to target SDR within 150 nits brightness range. Do you have any advice on how I can use an SDR brightness//black level test pattern when Windows in HDR?
I put up a table of what I measured with a Spyder 5 Pro earlier in this thread for the SDR brightness slider. They are not going to be exact for your TV but good enough. I have mine set to 7% now for about 120 nits. I don't think there is any other good way to tell what exactly the slider represents so you can just set it to a comfortable brightness. I think 10% or under is a good spot for SDR and looks no different from actually running the display in SDR.
 

elvn

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It's not completely philosophical- people perceive color differently. Hell, one of my eyes sees color cooler than the other!

Obviously there is science and standards and so on as well, and overall we can generally agree on what green is even if the color has entirely different meanings.
Warm..

fba5cf1d952ef3905a709683def2bc08.png

Cool....

fs-baby6.jpg

Green....

latest?cb=20181201002112.jpg

Vivid Green
0b2367935d42f8fabf4a857af7998b06.jpg

Cool White / Warm White:
68a6a0fc3f119fd6e97ffa3aee139282.jpg
 

kasakka

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Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish.
What your reference is matters. If you go from a very cool white to warmer white then it's going to look red or yellow. Going the other way usually makes things seem exceedingly bright and blueish. If you were to compare a white A4 paper to 6500K screen then you would probably think everything is alright.

Of course color temp does not tell the whole story as you can have accurate 6500K color temp while the actual hues are still off, causing whites and grays to be tinted. This is where calibration devices or at the very least running through the Windows display calibration comes in. For my CX 48 I needed to adjust green and blue a little bit to have accurate color balance using the Warm 2 color preset.

I want to see the content as it was intended rather than tailored to whatever I think "pops" or is "vivid". Real life is not always like that either so why should display content be?

That doesn't mean my display needs to be pro calibrated but figuring out which settings give the closest to 6500K, neutral color balance is a great starting point that is good enough for most things. Games usually don't understand ICC profiles anyway so display OSD calibration settings matter more.
 

elvn

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I'll take it a step further: I want to start from a calibrated point and if I need to do more to make it look subjectively nice, I may do that. Green is not the new purple :D.
This has always sounded like the best approach to me since monitor calibration (even with pre-calibrated monitors) is typically done up against the monitor. It usually doesn't use room location and lighting calibration hardware like a surround sound system does for sound with real time analyzer hardware placed in the room from the listener's perspective during surround sound speaker output level setup. Monitor calibration done in the dark and otherwise up against the screen will be off once you change (or allow daylight, etc to change) the room lighting environment. That's due to the relative way our eyes see contrast/brightness and saturation. That and of course personal preference with your own eyes and what you are using the display for, which is why I use nvidia freestyle on some games to change some paramenters without changing the way videos and photos, desktop apps look on my monitor outside of the games.
 

enyownz

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Comparing my 48CX to my 65A1e side by side, some pretty stark differences. The LG processing, while very good, starts to look bad when compared to the Sony. There's a punchy pop with images on the sony and colors look brighter. The highlights are brighter on the 48CX but the overall pop on the A1e is insane compared to 48cx. I have both calibrated with the i1display pro using pc. The tone-mapping and overall processing of the 3 year old Sony is insane. The nice thing about the sony is that its also gets regular updates, so youtube app supports HDR and whatnot. I still like the 48CX though, sit closer to it and use it as regular PC. Might switch to Sony 48" if that's ever released but for now going to play around with the settings to get the 48cx looking right.
 

Lateralus

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Comparing my 48CX to my 65A1e side by side, some pretty stark differences. The LG processing, while very good, starts to look bad when compared to the Sony. There's a punchy pop with images on the sony and colors look brighter. The highlights are brighter on the 48CX but the overall pop on the A1e is insane compared to 48cx. I have both calibrated with the i1display pro using pc. The tone-mapping and overall processing of the 3 year old Sony is insane. The nice thing about the sony is that its also gets regular updates, so youtube app supports HDR and whatnot. I still like the 48CX though, sit closer to it and use it as regular PC. Might switch to Sony 48" if that's ever released but for now going to play around with the settings to get the 48cx looking right.
I would be highly surprised if it wasn't the settings as those can obviously have a significant impact on "pop" and overall image quality.

When CNET reviewed the A1E, they didn't even find that it exceeded other OLEDs and that was 3 years ago...and panel tech has progressed since then. I'm sure the Sony has an amazing picture (like all OLEDs) but there shouldn't be a stark difference between two OLED panels and if anything I would expect the newer LG to surpass the older Sony.

1597419324360.png
 

JasonHF

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Actually, I've been tinkering around with settings some more and I found that if I turn DTM/HGiG Off, then the raised blacks in HDR/VRR no longer occurs and I can keep Brightness at 50 and maintain black detail.

Edit: Furthermore, if you have DTM or HGiG on, the color contrast is degraded as well.
 
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fishcakes

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Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.
Thanks for writing this up and the photos -- super handy for those thinking of a similar setup.

What backing plate are you using and if you're doing any non-gaming on it, how do you find it as a monitor?
 

Seel

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Thanks for writing this up and the photos -- super handy for those thinking of a similar setup.

What backing plate are you using and if you're doing any non-gaming on it, how do you find it as a monitor?
Glad to help! I do absolutely everything on it, this is my main and only "monitor" right now. I'm software engineer and work from home right now so when working I always have open text editior, IDE, WSL/WIndows Terminal, Firefox and Opera, Slack and that kind of things. I use 125% scaling in Win10, use MacType to replace standard Windows font rendering and seating about 80 to 90 cm from the screen. There is exactly zero issues with that configuration for my work. Text is good looking and I don't seen much difference compared with my office 30 inch 4k screen. I also feel that this home single monitor configuration is better and easier to work with then my work 3-monitor setup with 1 30-inch 4k and 2 24-inch 1200p Dell monitors, one in portrait configuration. I thinks this is perfectly good option for the monitor and I think that two controversial "features" it has - I'm talking about ABL and color-shift are non-issues and are easy to ignore or circumvent when using this TV as a work monitor. I use dark themes in all software that supports it for as long as that option became available, I never liked icons on desktop and just pin them to Start or use "Win key + Search name" shortcut to find my software. The only two things I did from all the crazy recommendations that some people give to help OLED with lifespan are: automatically hiding task bar and setting few dozen animated wallpapers changing every 10 min via Wallpaper Engine. I think that would be enough to help me keep this monitor for my usual 5-10 year usage cycle.
I keep desktop at 4k60 4:4:4 for everything else but change to 4k120 4:2:2 for gaming. It is amazing for gaming, no contest. I really hope next gen Nvidia GPUs will support HDMI2.1 and will get one for myself as soon as possible if they do.

Adapter plate is some generic no brand one for around €20 and I think it is local made as there was no packaging, branding or even mounting hardware on it. There is not really a lot of options in my country for 300x200 -> 100x100 adapter so this was almost the only option I found. Ergotron own adapter kit was like three times the cost, looked less sturdy and was on order everywhere I called with 4-6 week arrival estimate. I've seen a few good options on Amazon for this kind of adapter but with international shipping situation right now that was no go for me.
 

Arulan

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I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

IMG_20200815_172828.jpg
 

fishcakes

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Glad to help! I do absolutely everything on it, this is my main and only "monitor" right now. I'm software engineer and work from home right now so when working I always have open text editior, IDE, WSL/WIndows Terminal, Firefox and Opera, Slack and that kind of things. I use 125% scaling in Win10, use MacType to replace standard Windows font rendering and seating about 80 to 90 cm from the screen. There is exactly zero issues with that configuration for my work. Text is good looking and I don't seen much difference compared with my office 30 inch 4k screen. I also feel that this home single monitor configuration is better and easier to work with then my work 3-monitor setup with 1 30-inch 4k and 2 24-inch 1200p Dell monitors, one in portrait configuration. I thinks this is perfectly good option for the monitor and I think that two controversial "features" it has - I'm talking about ABL and color-shift are non-issues and are easy to ignore or circumvent when using this TV as a work monitor. I use dark themes in all software that supports it for as long as that option became available, I never liked icons on desktop and just pin them to Start or use "Win key + Search name" shortcut to find my software. The only two things I did from all the crazy recommendations that some people give to help OLED with lifespan are: automatically hiding task bar and setting few dozen animated wallpapers changing every 10 min via Wallpaper Engine. I think that would be enough to help me keep this monitor for my usual 5-10 year usage cycle.
I keep desktop at 4k60 4:4:4 for everything else but change to 4k120 4:2:2 for gaming. It is amazing for gaming, no contest. I really hope next gen Nvidia GPUs will support HDMI2.1 and will get one for myself as soon as possible if they do.

Adapter plate is some generic no brand one for around €20 and I think it is local made as there was no packaging, branding or even mounting hardware on it. There is not really a lot of options in my country for 300x200 -> 100x100 adapter so this was almost the only option I found. Ergotron own adapter kit was like three times the cost, looked less sturdy and was on order everywhere I called with 4-6 week arrival estimate. I've seen a few good options on Amazon for this kind of adapter but with international shipping situation right now that was no go for me.
+1 review, would read again.

Seriously though, thank you so much Seel. This is highly informative for others like me who're thinking about the practicality of using it as a workstation monitor through the day then gaming monitor once the working day is done -- from your experience this sounds promising which is great to read. Agreed on looking forward to HDMI 2.1 GPU's too - just a few weeks now..

Have you had a hankering for a second display at all? I ask mainly as a consideration for non-window full screen games where it can be useful to flit between, like a game on one screen, web browser on the other.
 

enyownz

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I would be highly surprised if it wasn't the settings as those can obviously have a significant impact on "pop" and overall image quality.

When CNET reviewed the A1E, they didn't even find that it exceeded other OLEDs and that was 3 years ago...and panel tech has progressed since then. I'm sure the Sony has an amazing picture (like all OLEDs) but there shouldn't be a stark difference between two OLED panels and if anything I would expect the newer LG to surpass the older Sony.

View attachment 269873
The A1e has received quite a bit of updates over the 3 years. In my first year of owning it, I absolutely hated it. Now its almost perfect imo, the only dislike is the mid 30s input lag, but I don't game on it so whatever. I calibrated both again and the A1e picture just has that little bit extra quality to it. It's by no means leagues apart, just better. I still like the 48CX but LG still has catching up to do in terms of processing. Also CNETs reviews are absolute useless trash.
 

JasonHF

n00b
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
15
I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

View attachment 270184
Very nice setup, and the ambient lighting probably helps a lot. I don't have much space in my office so when I'm gaming I have to sit back with a lap keyboard and mouse tray, lol btw, you really don't find using Windows at 100 nits too dim?

I recently had a chance to look at a Sony LCD TV and was blown away by how washed out things appeared in evening now that I'm so used to OLED.
 

sharknice

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
2,139
I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

View attachment 270184

Totally agree on having the screen extend below the desk. You're better off with a desk only a foot or so deep, just enough for your keyboard and mouse.
 

elvn

2[H]4U
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
3,828
I'll add that if you have a fully articulating/adjustable chair with full head/neck support you can also tilt it back slightly. Even a few degrees changes where the neutral position of your head is to more of a 'sniffing" position. It might not seem like much but across a 4' distance it changes how high up an invisible dotted line, or an invisible band directly from your eyes would be. This makes it a lot easier to view even very tall monitors without strain.

For example, in a proof of concept I spun one of my two 43" 4k monitors into portrait mode last week because I'm playing with the idea of using one on each side of an oled in November. A 43" in portrait mode appears very tall since I am still sitting about 3.5' away currently. (A 43" screen sideways in portrait is almost 38" tall, a 48" 16:9 in landscape is around 24" tall, 55" 16:9 landscape around 27" tall).

With my chair back adjusted only about 5 degrees or so (I haven't measured it to be honest), my eyes bee-line to the middle of the monitor where it isn't really a strain to look up or down 10 - 15 more degrees in either direction. My neutral focal view is a thick band across the middle third of the portrait monitor. I have the monitor more or less sitting on top of the desk surface now, adjusted on a monitor arm. I prioritize things to be in the middle and bottom thirds but the top is still very usable. I have plex or my youtube app "awesometube" in the top third right now This seating position puts my view across a top band of my 32" monitor but that is still perfectly usable. Once I get a 48" or 55" oled I'll sit back a lot farther than this so the viewing angle's target position on the monitor even at the same slope, will suit the larger OLED. This will make it even easier to view the side 43" display's heights in portrait mode but I'll probably have to bump up the scaling one notch up from 1:1 on the portrait mode monitors.

Between a slight sniffing position on a chair with full head and neck support combined with increased viewing distance you should have no problem with a taller/larger monitor. At my couch with what is in effect a slight recline seating position with full head/neck support , using a lap desk ("couch master" brand lap desk), I connect my 4k laptop up to a 70" TV at about 8' away with no "eye-bending" / strain problems at all there either.
 
Last edited:

Wag

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 29, 2006
Messages
1,052
Tax Free weekend coming up in MA in 2 weeks. At MSRP I would save $94.

I'll probably just wait for the new GPUs and Black Friday to see how it all pans out. I really, really hope the new GPUs have HDMI 2.1.
 

kalston

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,146
Tax Free weekend coming up in MA in 2 weeks. At MSRP I would save $94.

I'll probably just wait for the new GPUs and Black Friday to see how it all pans out. I really, really hope the new GPUs have HDMI 2.1.
There's no way they don't. I'm not sure why anyone is doubting it.
 

Arulan

n00b
Joined
Aug 15, 2020
Messages
4
Very nice setup, and the ambient lighting probably helps a lot. I don't have much space in my office so when I'm gaming I have to sit back with a lap keyboard and mouse tray, lol btw, you really don't find using Windows at 100 nits too dim?

I recently had a chance to look at a Sony LCD TV and was blown away by how washed out things appeared in evening now that I'm so used to OLED.
I keep my office pretty dark, which is the main reason for the bias lighting. It seems to make it more comfortable for viewing.

I used to do 120 nits on my previous monitors, but ~100 seems good to me. What do you use? I don't have a way to properly calibrate it yet, so I'm going off of other people's settings. I've been testing something similar to RTINGS' settings for now. On PC Mode + Game Mode I have the OLED Light at 28.
 

jbltecnicspro

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
5,908
I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

View attachment 270184
Damn this looks good. I swear I'm tempted to get one of these for myself this Christmas.
 

JasonHF

n00b
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
15
I keep my office pretty dark, which is the main reason for the bias lighting. It seems to make it more comfortable for viewing.

I used to do 120 nits on my previous monitors, but ~100 seems good to me. What do you use? I don't have a way to properly calibrate it yet, so I'm going off of other people's settings. I've been testing something similar to RTINGS' settings for now. On PC Mode + Game Mode I have the OLED Light at 28.
I have the SDR OLED Light at 60 in a pitch black room, so approximately 300 nits. I just use it because that's what the isf Expert Dark setting was and seems comfortable to me. I could probably get used to a lower OLED Light setting if I left it there for a few days. Not a huge difference overall.
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2013
Messages
34
Any new revelation on the CAC-1085? Is it still worthless? I've done the firmware update and followed some suggestions, and so far it is still garbage and just sitting on the floor right now. My return window is approaching, so if nothing was solve then it goes back.
 
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