LG 48CX

[MistaSparkul]

Sometimes I feel like I'm crazy or there is something wrong with my eyes. I can't imagine how the reddish whites on Warm2 can be accurate, not that I am disputing their accuracy. The bluish whites on Medium/Cool temperatures and Standard/Vibrant modes look much better to me. That's why I chose them and I put that disclaimer on there to pont out I'm putting preference to the screen's appeal rather than accuracy. I personally dislike looking at reddish tinted dim windows, especially with the nature of what I do for work.

But 6500k isn't suppose to look reddish though, that's pretty much neutral white. Meaning it should look like a plain white, sort of like if you were to grab a piece of printer paper and put it next to your monitor, the whites should be the same if it was properly calibrated to 6500k.

 

[mirkendargen]

But 6500k isn't suppose to look reddish though, that's pretty much neutral white. Meaning it should look like a plain white, sort of like if you were to grab a piece of printer paper and put it next to your monitor, the whites should be the same if it was properly calibrated to 6500k.

Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish. Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?

 

[MistaSparkul]

Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish. Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?

Sure that's definitely true but I mean where do you draw the line then? If someone is used to using a really bad TN panel where the reds are actually brown on that monitor then they should just keep trying to see the colors that way because they are used to it? I would say at least give your eyes some time to adjust to 6500k and see if you still prefer the cooler temperature afterwards. Obviously at first glance it's going to look jarring but perhaps after a week or so it will be a different story.

 

[IdiotInCharge]

Philosophical tangent, I've always wondered if people all "see" the same colors. Of course people all agree on what the color "green" is, but do we actually see the same thing, or did we all just learn the completely different things we see when looking at something green are "green" as children?

It's not completely philosophical- people perceive color differently. Hell, one of my eyes sees color cooler than the other!

Obviously there is science and standards and so on as well, and overall we can generally agree on what green is even if the color has entirely different meanings.

 

[kasakka]

Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.

I can't vouch for the Ergotron but my Multibrackets VESA HD arm seems to handle the display pretty well aside from the tilt which needed to be really cranked down and carefully set to the desired angle. I have the arm mounted so that the base of the arm is at the edge of the display. This lets me set as far at the edge of the table to the point that it hits the base part and that is what limits the movement.

I thought I would be moving it a bit if I wanted to play at 3840x1600 but so far I have just put it to its position and left it there. I don't think a monitor arm is particularly ideal for this TV, I think a floor stand that you can move separate from the desk would be best. Maybe one with height adjustment so you can move it up if you want to use a standing desk for example.

 

[kasakka]

-I was adjusting the SDR brightness scaler based on some advice to target SDR within 150 nits brightness range. Do you have any advice on how I can use an SDR brightness//black level test pattern when Windows in HDR?

I put up a table of what I measured with a Spyder 5 Pro earlier in this thread for the SDR brightness slider. They are not going to be exact for your TV but good enough. I have mine set to 7% now for about 120 nits. I don't think there is any other good way to tell what exactly the slider represents so you can just set it to a comfortable brightness. I think 10% or under is a good spot for SDR and looks no different from actually running the display in SDR.

 

[elvn]

It's not completely philosophical- people perceive color differently. Hell, one of my eyes sees color cooler than the other!

Obviously there is science and standards and so on as well, and overall we can generally agree on what green is even if the color has entirely different meanings.

Warm..



Cool....



Green....



Vivid Green


Cool White / Warm White:

 

[kasakka]

Interpretation of what "white" is is all relative. If you think 8000k is white, 6500k is going to look reddish.

What your reference is matters. If you go from a very cool white to warmer white then it's going to look red or yellow. Going the other way usually makes things seem exceedingly bright and blueish. If you were to compare a white A4 paper to 6500K screen then you would probably think everything is alright.

Of course color temp does not tell the whole story as you can have accurate 6500K color temp while the actual hues are still off, causing whites and grays to be tinted. This is where calibration devices or at the very least running through the Windows display calibration comes in. For my CX 48 I needed to adjust green and blue a little bit to have accurate color balance using the Warm 2 color preset.

I want to see the content as it was intended rather than tailored to whatever I think "pops" or is "vivid". Real life is not always like that either so why should display content be?

That doesn't mean my display needs to be pro calibrated but figuring out which settings give the closest to 6500K, neutral color balance is a great starting point that is good enough for most things. Games usually don't understand ICC profiles anyway so display OSD calibration settings matter more.

 

[elvn]

I'll take it a step further: I want to start from a calibrated point and if I need to do more to make it look subjectively nice, I may do that. Green is not the new purple .

This has always sounded like the best approach to me since monitor calibration (even with pre-calibrated monitors) is typically done up against the monitor. It usually doesn't use room location and lighting calibration hardware like a surround sound system does for sound with real time analyzer hardware placed in the room from the listener's perspective during surround sound speaker output level setup. Monitor calibration done in the dark and otherwise up against the screen will be off once you change (or allow daylight, etc to change) the room lighting environment. That's due to the relative way our eyes see contrast/brightness and saturation. That and of course personal preference with your own eyes and what you are using the display for, which is why I use nvidia freestyle on some games to change some paramenters without changing the way videos and photos, desktop apps look on my monitor outside of the games.

 

[enyownz]

Comparing my 48CX to my 65A1e side by side, some pretty stark differences. The LG processing, while very good, starts to look bad when compared to the Sony. There's a punchy pop with images on the sony and colors look brighter. The highlights are brighter on the 48CX but the overall pop on the A1e is insane compared to 48cx. I have both calibrated with the i1display pro using pc. The tone-mapping and overall processing of the 3 year old Sony is insane. The nice thing about the sony is that its also gets regular updates, so youtube app supports HDR and whatnot. I still like the 48CX though, sit closer to it and use it as regular PC. Might switch to Sony 48" if that's ever released but for now going to play around with the settings to get the 48cx looking right.

 

[Lateralus]

Comparing my 48CX to my 65A1e side by side, some pretty stark differences. The LG processing, while very good, starts to look bad when compared to the Sony. There's a punchy pop with images on the sony and colors look brighter. The highlights are brighter on the 48CX but the overall pop on the A1e is insane compared to 48cx. I have both calibrated with the i1display pro using pc. The tone-mapping and overall processing of the 3 year old Sony is insane. The nice thing about the sony is that its also gets regular updates, so youtube app supports HDR and whatnot. I still like the 48CX though, sit closer to it and use it as regular PC. Might switch to Sony 48" if that's ever released but for now going to play around with the settings to get the 48cx looking right.

I would be highly surprised if it wasn't the settings as those can obviously have a significant impact on "pop" and overall image quality.

When CNET reviewed the A1E, they didn't even find that it exceeded other OLEDs and that was 3 years ago...and panel tech has progressed since then. I'm sure the Sony has an amazing picture (like all OLEDs) but there shouldn't be a stark difference between two OLED panels and if anything I would expect the newer LG to surpass the older Sony.

 

[fishcakes]

Heard multiple times discussion of mounting 48CX on a monitor arm. Stopped following thread few dozens pages ago after getting my own TV so don't know if this configuration was showed in flesh in that time. Though it still might be interesting for somebody here to see how mounting on Ergotron HX looks and share my impressions.
I must say that even mighty Ergo HX is almost not enough for this chonker. Upper part of the arm is moving pretty good, but lower arm is overloaded and is hard to manipulate. I think it is fine for medium range of adjustment but trying to extend everything to the max is a pain and I wouldn't recommend this configuration if you need to move TV a lot. HX also needs a lot of space behind the TV, even when folded to the slimiest position possible. There is a "hack" - you can remove one locking screw on the lower part of the arm to make lower joint turn 360(instead of 180) which can win you few more centimetres by moving lower joint behind the table, that way you can extend space between you and a TV and that way TV is only sticks out around 15 cm from the edge of the table. That is probably not very safe and not in any way recommended or even mentioned by Ergotron, but HX is very sturdy and I think it can handle that. When leaving arm in factory configuration it still takes less space than standard stand, but not by a lot, couple cm I think.

Thanks for writing this up and the photos -- super handy for those thinking of a similar setup.

What backing plate are you using and if you're doing any non-gaming on it, how do you find it as a monitor?

 

[Seel]

Thanks for writing this up and the photos -- super handy for those thinking of a similar setup.

What backing plate are you using and if you're doing any non-gaming on it, how do you find it as a monitor?

Glad to help! I do absolutely everything on it, this is my main and only "monitor" right now. I'm software engineer and work from home right now so when working I always have open text editior, IDE, WSL/WIndows Terminal, Firefox and Opera, Slack and that kind of things. I use 125% scaling in Win10, use MacType to replace standard Windows font rendering and seating about 80 to 90 cm from the screen. There is exactly zero issues with that configuration for my work. Text is good looking and I don't seen much difference compared with my office 30 inch 4k screen. I also feel that this home single monitor configuration is better and easier to work with then my work 3-monitor setup with 1 30-inch 4k and 2 24-inch 1200p Dell monitors, one in portrait configuration. I thinks this is perfectly good option for the monitor and I think that two controversial "features" it has - I'm talking about ABL and color-shift are non-issues and are easy to ignore or circumvent when using this TV as a work monitor. I use dark themes in all software that supports it for as long as that option became available, I never liked icons on desktop and just pin them to Start or use "Win key + Search name" shortcut to find my software. The only two things I did from all the crazy recommendations that some people give to help OLED with lifespan are: automatically hiding task bar and setting few dozen animated wallpapers changing every 10 min via Wallpaper Engine. I think that would be enough to help me keep this monitor for my usual 5-10 year usage cycle.
I keep desktop at 4k60 4:4:4 for everything else but change to 4k120 4:2:2 for gaming. It is amazing for gaming, no contest. I really hope next gen Nvidia GPUs will support HDMI2.1 and will get one for myself as soon as possible if they do.

Adapter plate is some generic no brand one for around €20 and I think it is local made as there was no packaging, branding or even mounting hardware on it. There is not really a lot of options in my country for 300x200 -> 100x100 adapter so this was almost the only option I found. Ergotron own adapter kit was like three times the cost, looked less sturdy and was on order everywhere I called with 4-6 week arrival estimate. I've seen a few good options on Amazon for this kind of adapter but with international shipping situation right now that was no go for me.

 

[Arulan]

I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

 

[fishcakes]

Glad to help! I do absolutely everything on it, this is my main and only "monitor" right now. I'm software engineer and work from home right now so when working I always have open text editior, IDE, WSL/WIndows Terminal, Firefox and Opera, Slack and that kind of things. I use 125% scaling in Win10, use MacType to replace standard Windows font rendering and seating about 80 to 90 cm from the screen. There is exactly zero issues with that configuration for my work. Text is good looking and I don't seen much difference compared with my office 30 inch 4k screen. I also feel that this home single monitor configuration is better and easier to work with then my work 3-monitor setup with 1 30-inch 4k and 2 24-inch 1200p Dell monitors, one in portrait configuration. I thinks this is perfectly good option for the monitor and I think that two controversial "features" it has - I'm talking about ABL and color-shift are non-issues and are easy to ignore or circumvent when using this TV as a work monitor. I use dark themes in all software that supports it for as long as that option became available, I never liked icons on desktop and just pin them to Start or use "Win key + Search name" shortcut to find my software. The only two things I did from all the crazy recommendations that some people give to help OLED with lifespan are: automatically hiding task bar and setting few dozen animated wallpapers changing every 10 min via Wallpaper Engine. I think that would be enough to help me keep this monitor for my usual 5-10 year usage cycle.
I keep desktop at 4k60 4:4:4 for everything else but change to 4k120 4:2:2 for gaming. It is amazing for gaming, no contest. I really hope next gen Nvidia GPUs will support HDMI2.1 and will get one for myself as soon as possible if they do.

Adapter plate is some generic no brand one for around €20 and I think it is local made as there was no packaging, branding or even mounting hardware on it. There is not really a lot of options in my country for 300x200 -> 100x100 adapter so this was almost the only option I found. Ergotron own adapter kit was like three times the cost, looked less sturdy and was on order everywhere I called with 4-6 week arrival estimate. I've seen a few good options on Amazon for this kind of adapter but with international shipping situation right now that was no go for me.

+1 review, would read again.

Seriously though, thank you so much Seel. This is highly informative for others like me who're thinking about the practicality of using it as a workstation monitor through the day then gaming monitor once the working day is done -- from your experience this sounds promising which is great to read. Agreed on looking forward to HDMI 2.1 GPU's too - just a few weeks now..

Have you had a hankering for a second display at all? I ask mainly as a consideration for non-window full screen games where it can be useful to flit between, like a game on one screen, web browser on the other.

 

[enyownz]

I would be highly surprised if it wasn't the settings as those can obviously have a significant impact on "pop" and overall image quality.

When CNET reviewed the A1E, they didn't even find that it exceeded other OLEDs and that was 3 years ago...and panel tech has progressed since then. I'm sure the Sony has an amazing picture (like all OLEDs) but there shouldn't be a stark difference between two OLED panels and if anything I would expect the newer LG to surpass the older Sony.

View attachment 269873

The A1e has received quite a bit of updates over the 3 years. In my first year of owning it, I absolutely hated it. Now its almost perfect imo, the only dislike is the mid 30s input lag, but I don't game on it so whatever. I calibrated both again and the A1e picture just has that little bit extra quality to it. It's by no means leagues apart, just better. I still like the 48CX but LG still has catching up to do in terms of processing. Also CNETs reviews are absolute useless trash.

 

[sharknice]

I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

View attachment 270184

Totally agree on having the screen extend below the desk. You're better off with a desk only a foot or so deep, just enough for your keyboard and mouse.

 

[elvn]

I'll add that if you have a fully articulating/adjustable chair with full head/neck support you can also tilt it back slightly. Even a few degrees changes where the neutral position of your head is to more of a 'sniffing" position. It might not seem like much but across a 4' distance it changes how high up an invisible dotted line, or an invisible band directly from your eyes would be. This makes it a lot easier to view even very tall monitors without strain.

For example, in a proof of concept I spun one of my two 43" 4k monitors into portrait mode last week because I'm playing with the idea of using one on each side of an oled in November. A 43" in portrait mode appears very tall since I am still sitting about 3.5' away currently. (A 43" screen sideways in portrait is almost 38" tall, a 48" 16:9 in landscape is around 24" tall, 55" 16:9 landscape around 27" tall).

With my chair back adjusted only about 5 degrees or so (I haven't measured it to be honest), my eyes bee-line to the middle of the monitor where it isn't really a strain to look up or down 10 - 15 more degrees in either direction. My neutral focal view is a thick band across the middle third of the portrait monitor. I have the monitor more or less sitting on top of the desk surface now, adjusted on a monitor arm. I prioritize things to be in the middle and bottom thirds but the top is still very usable. I have plex or my youtube app "awesometube" in the top third right now This seating position puts my view across a top band of my 32" monitor but that is still perfectly usable. Once I get a 48" or 55" oled I'll sit back a lot farther than this so the viewing angle's target position on the monitor even at the same slope, will suit the larger OLED. This will make it even easier to view the side 43" display's heights in portrait mode but I'll probably have to bump up the scaling one notch up from 1:1 on the portrait mode monitors.

Between a slight sniffing position on a chair with full head and neck support combined with increased viewing distance you should have no problem with a taller/larger monitor. At my couch with what is in effect a slight recline seating position with full head/neck support , using a lap desk ("couch master" brand lap desk), I connect my 4k laptop up to a 70" TV at about 8' away with no "eye-bending" / strain problems at all there either.

 

[Wag]

Tax Free weekend coming up in MA in 2 weeks. At MSRP I would save $94.

I'll probably just wait for the new GPUs and Black Friday to see how it all pans out. I really, really hope the new GPUs have HDMI 2.1.

 

[kalston]

Tax Free weekend coming up in MA in 2 weeks. At MSRP I would save $94.

I'll probably just wait for the new GPUs and Black Friday to see how it all pans out. I really, really hope the new GPUs have HDMI 2.1.

There's no way they don't. I'm not sure why anyone is doubting it.

 

[Arulan]

Very nice setup, and the ambient lighting probably helps a lot. I don't have much space in my office so when I'm gaming I have to sit back with a lap keyboard and mouse tray, lol btw, you really don't find using Windows at 100 nits too dim?

I recently had a chance to look at a Sony LCD TV and was blown away by how washed out things appeared in evening now that I'm so used to OLED.

I keep my office pretty dark, which is the main reason for the bias lighting. It seems to make it more comfortable for viewing.

I used to do 120 nits on my previous monitors, but ~100 seems good to me. What do you use? I don't have a way to properly calibrate it yet, so I'm going off of other people's settings. I've been testing something similar to RTINGS' settings for now. On PC Mode + Game Mode I have the OLED Light at 28.

 

[MelonSplitter]

There's no way they don't. I'm not sure why anyone is doubting it.

Because it hasn't been "CONFIRMED"..... sorry 'bout that

 

[jbltecnicspro]

I thought I'd share how I set it up as a monitor as well.

There are two main problems to address with a monitor this size: viewing distance and display height. I already had my desk pushed away from the wall for my speakers, and here it serves me again. My eyes are ~48 inches/122 cm away from the display. As for the height, I have the display wall-mounted so the bottom edge is actually below my desk height. Maybe 3 inches or so below. This is key so that I don't have to move my head up, which causes strain. All in all this is so the display fits within a comfortable field of view.

I've mostly been using 1440p120Hz for now (until HDMI 2.1 GPUs), but 4K 100% scaling (GNOME/Windows) seems fine. I haven't messed too much with font rendering yet.

The picture quality is just incredible. OLED alone is such a significant improvement from the IPS/TN monitors I've used before.

I'm keeping SDR content (which is most of I'll be using it for) at 100 nits. I'll have to do some cable management later.

View attachment 270184

Damn this looks good. I swear I'm tempted to get one of these for myself this Christmas.

 

[Skott]

Because it hasn't been "CONFIRMED"..... sorry 'bout that

Exactly. Nvidia will not comment one way or another. The assumption and hope is that they will but who knows?

 

[shinshoryuken]

Any new revelation on the CAC-1085? Is it still worthless? I've done the firmware update and followed some suggestions, and so far it is still garbage and just sitting on the floor right now. My return window is approaching, so if nothing was solve then it goes back.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Any new revelation on the CAC-1085? Is it still worthless? I've done the firmware update and followed some suggestions, and so far it is still garbage and just sitting on the floor right now. My return window is approaching, so if nothing was solve then it goes back.

I would just send it back honestly. New GPU's are out next month and highly likely to support HDMI 2.1. If they don't then you can weigh your options then but for now I say we are so close that it's better to just return it at this point. On an unrelated note, I have been replaying Dying Light on my CX and oh my goodness it's almost like a completely different game. Night time cycles just looks so damn good on OLED, none of that nastyass LCD glow to ruin it. Been having a blast.

 

[Lateralus]

The A1e has received quite a bit of updates over the 3 years. In my first year of owning it, I absolutely hated it. Now its almost perfect imo, the only dislike is the mid 30s input lag, but I don't game on it so whatever. I calibrated both again and the A1e picture just has that little bit extra quality to it. It's by no means leagues apart, just better. I still like the 48CX but LG still has catching up to do in terms of processing. Also CNETs reviews are absolute useless trash.

Gotcha. You own them both, so I'll take your word for it. LG has been great about pumping out updates, so there is probably a lot more to come there over the next couple of years.

I agree that CNET is hardly my first choice for tech reviews - it just happened to be near the top when I searched. Maybe a better link would be this one from rtings showing them to be neck and neck with minor point advantages to each. They really only dinged the C7 for not having BFI (which LG now does offer) and dinged the A1E on input lag. The C7 actually scored a higher rating for post-calibration and TV use with movie use being equal but they don't go into detail on that page about things like "pop" and vibrancy so I'll take your word that Sony has a slight edge when it comes to their image processing post-updates. But in my case it's a moot point because there is no equivalent 48" Sony and even if there was, it probably wouldn't match the LG as a BFGD. But I'm sure the A1E is awesome - it's an OLED, after all. I'm really surprised to hear that you hated it at first, though, and that updates could have such a profound impact. I know when I got my first OLED, I was absolutely blown away (and I came from a flagship Samsung quantum dot LCD set, so it wasn't a slouch but there was absolutely no comparison to anything I'd seen before).

I would just send it back honestly. New GPU's are out next month and highly likely to support HDMI 2.1. If they don't then you can weigh your options then but for now I say we are so close that it's better to just return it at this point. On an unrelated note, I have been replaying Dying Light on my CX and oh my goodness it's almost like a completely different game. Night time cycles just looks so damn good on OLED, none of that nastyass LCD glow to ruin it. Been having a blast.

Ooooo. I'll bet that's a good one to replay. Man I'll tell you, that "it's almost a completely different game" applied to practically every game I tried on my first OLED. Now with 120Hz, BFI, G-Sync support etc. it's kinda happening all over again. I know that for most people, 2020 has sucked for several different reasons but the 48CX is one heck of a bright spot in an otherwise ugly year!

 

[MistaSparkul]

Ooooo. I'll bet that's a good one to replay. Man I'll tell you, that "it's almost a completely different game" applied to practically every game I tried on my first OLED. Now with 120Hz, BFI, G-Sync support etc. it's kinda happening all over again. I know that for most people, 2020 has sucked for several different reasons but the 48CX is one heck of a bright spot in an otherwise ugly year!

Haha yeah I know that it sound so cliche to say that about OLED, but it's true! I have definitely clocked in more gaming hours the past month than I have throughout all of 2020 so far.

 

[enyownz]

Gotcha. You own them both, so I'll take your word for it. LG has been great about pumping out updates, so there is probably a lot more to come there over the next couple of years.

Yeah looking at the SONY 48 news, I see its not even hdmi 2.1 compatible. The 48CX is a nobrainer and probably the best big gaming display. No regrets, can't wait for the RTX 3XXX series.

 

[Lateralus]

Yeah looking at the SONY 48 news, I see its not even hdmi 2.1 compatible. The 48CX is a nobrainer and probably the best big gaming display. No regrets, can't wait for the RTX 3XXX series.

Hmm. Seems an odd choice and a bit unwise since PC gamers are more likely to want a smaller panel, but I suppose that's a minority of the market anyway. LG really seemed to explicitly cater to gamers with this one so maybe rather than try to catch up, Sony's going after people who want OLED image quality in bedrooms, dens, offices etc. where 55" and up is just too large sometimes.

I definitely welcome the smaller sizes and hope that trend continues (along with several others here who have said "If only they made a 32-38"!, but I suspect we're years away from those if we get them at all). I have a Sharp AQUOS 32" LCD wedged in the corner of our bedroom on top of a dresser and if I could make an OLED work in there, I'd do it in a heartbeat. The dark scene detail is so awful and it's extremely hard to make things out sometimes. Hard to find anything decent in that size now, so I may have to look at doing some rearranging so that I can have a larger TV flat against the wall rather than being limited by what I can stick in the corner without half of the stand being off of the dresser.

I'm with you 100% on that last part.

 

[kasakka]

Any new revelation on the CAC-1085? Is it still worthless? I've done the firmware update and followed some suggestions, and so far it is still garbage and just sitting on the floor right now. My return window is approaching, so if nothing was solve then it goes back.

Unfortunately no. The update turned it from complete garbage to borderline usable but it still has a huge pile of issues. I have a 2080 Ti and would not rather buy a 3080 etc until maybe later this year when all the models are out so I kept the adapter. Club3D is trying to improve it as they sent me another firmware but it fixed zero issues.

For me it works best at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit HDR. This outputs 4:4:4 correctly and works until you need to do any resolution changes which are a complete crapshoot whether they result in "no signal" or not. At least games don’t crash when this happens and just need to power cycle the adapter. For some reason SDR always wants to output 4:2:2 but HDR is fine. You do need to use the HDMI override menu to set the color space to BT2020 because the adapter somehow fucks this up too.

I have a really hard time recommending it and if Club3D can’t get it to at least a condition where it doesn’t need to be power cycled all the time then I will just try to return it as it clearly does not work as intended.

 

[shinshoryuken]

Unfortunately no. The update turned it from complete garbage to borderline usable but it still has a huge pile of issues. I have a 2080 Ti and would not rather buy a 3080 etc until maybe later this year when all the models are out so I kept the adapter. Club3D is trying to improve it as they sent me another firmware but it fixed zero issues.

For me it works best at 4K 120 Hz 10-bit HDR. This outputs 4:4:4 correctly and works until you need to do any resolution changes which are a complete crapshoot whether they result in "no signal" or not. At least games don’t crash when this happens and just need to power cycle the adapter. For some reason SDR always wants to output 4:2:2 but HDR is fine. You do need to use the HDMI override menu to set the color space to BT2020 because the adapter somehow fucks this up too.

I have a really hard time recommending it and if Club3D can’t get it to at least a condition where it doesn’t need to be power cycled all the time then I will just try to return it as it clearly does not work as intended.

I've actually tried your suggestions before, and didn't see the benefit of 4K 120 Hz 10-bit HDR vs the cumbersome having to power cycle. The moment it gave me a "no signal" I unplugged it again. I at least with 4k 120hz 420 8-bit I only get blurry text which I only use when playing games, for desktop work I just put it back to 60hz RGB.

 

[kasakka]

I've actually tried your suggestions before, and didn't see the benefit of 4K 120 Hz 10-bit HDR vs the cumbersome having to power cycle. The moment it gave me a "no signal" I unplugged it again. I at least with 4k 120hz 420 8-bit I only get blurry text which I only use when playing games, for desktop work I just put it back to 60hz RGB.

I actually want 120 Hz also for desktop use because 60 Hz mouse cursor just feels bad to me at this point after being used to using high refresh rate most of the time. Otherwise I am not keen to give up HDR support for 120 Hz. It's frustrating the adapter does not work well because otherwise the 2080 Ti is good enough for me so a 30xx series would be mostly about getting HDMI 2.1 for me.

 

[PittyH]

Club3D is trying to improve it as they sent me another firmware but it fixed zero issues.

Can you post the link to the new firmware?
thx

 

[kasakka]

Can you post the link to the new firmware?
thx

It does not fix any issues as far as I can tell, might actually have more issues than the previous one. I think they are trying things out as these may be difficult to replicate sometimes. I would suggest contacting Club3D yourself and they will try to provide you a firmware for the issues you are facing when they have one. I'd rather not share firmware that is not meant for public distribution. Club3D can go for weeks without answering because they simply don't have anything for you to try.

These are the issues I have reported that are still outstanding:
- 4K 120 Hz only outputs 4:4:4 with HDR enabled, SDR is 4:2:2.
- Switching to 4K 120 Hz can cause the display to output at 1920x2160 fullscreen with a lot of flickering.
- Switching to 4K 120 Hz can cause "no signal" problem.
- Switching from SDR to HDR can cause "no signal" problem.
- Even 4K 60 Hz refuses to output 10-bit 4:4:4 unless adapter is power cycled. It will instead output 4:2:0 also with the wrong color space (Rec 709 instead of BT2020 with HDR enabled).

Power cycling the adapter seems to be the fix for everything and the display works without issues as long as resolution does not change. Starting games can be the most problematic time as it seems to easily go to the "no signal" or half output during those times. Might be SDR vs HDR switching involved too in games that don't support HDR or when they are being initialized.

 

[SoCali]

I've decided to ditch the 2nd 27" portrait monitor beside the CX mainly because the difference between displays is just too jarring and it ruins the OLED. Second reason is that it's just too uncomfortably off to the side for me to make any use of it long term. A spotify window or temp monitoring sure but actual productivity swinging my neck gets annoying.

Lastly the setup looks way cleaner with 1 display.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I've decided to ditch the 2nd 27" portrait monitor beside the CX mainly because the difference between displays is just too jarring and it ruins the OLED. Second reason is that it's just too uncomfortably off to the side for me to make any use of it long term. A spotify window or temp monitoring sure but actual productivity swinging my neck gets annoying.

Lastly the setup looks way cleaner with 1 display.

I keep mine vesa mounted in front of my CX then just swing it away to the side when it's time to play some games. Although I don't do any actual work on my PC though so 27" isn't a big deal for me. Maybe you could do the same thing but with a 32" instead?

 

[Arulan]

I've decided to ditch the 2nd 27" portrait monitor beside the CX mainly because the difference between displays is just too jarring and it ruins the OLED. Second reason is that it's just too uncomfortably off to the side for me to make any use of it long term. A spotify window or temp monitoring sure but actual productivity swinging my neck gets annoying.

Lastly the setup looks way cleaner with 1 display.

That's more or less what I concluded. At 4K you have plenty of real estate to work with. It's only with full-screen applications that a second display is really useful, but it wasn't worth the trade-off for me. I also have two speakers to the sides, so I'd have to push it further off to the side.

 

[IdiotInCharge]

That's more or less what I concluded. At 4K you have plenty of real estate to work with. It's only with full-screen applications that a second display is really useful, but it wasn't worth the trade-off for me. I also have two speakers to the sides, so I'd have to push it further off to the side.

I'm still wondering what I'm going to do if I pick one of these up. Two screens is my minimum, and that's with protest. It's not even about real estate.

 

[l88bastard]

I'm still wondering what I'm going to do if I pick one of these up. Two screens is my minimum, and that's with protest. It's not even about real estate.

Nah, you only need the one 48cx.

I have done everything from double, to triple landscape, triple portrait, 5x1 portrait and the 48cx does it all in one.