LG 48CX

HiCZoK

Gawd
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Messages
838
I would assume it's a quirk of the C1 and maybe the Instant Game Response setting also causes this to happen. Try contacting LG and maybe they will fix it in a firmware update.

You can expect that a new iteration will have all kinds of annoyances. Some get fixed, others do not within the first 6 months or so.
I tweeted at them. not sure which account is alright though...
 

HiCZoK

Gawd
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Hey, I've been wondering - The Peak Brightness setting seems important but it is greyed out in both SDR and HDR modes when I am in "PC INPUT" on m pc. These are available on ps5 with "console input".
Does that mean that these settings are set to high or off ? What would it do in sdr anyway if am set to Oled Light 30, then the tv never dims below 120nits as it can hold this brightness even on full screen no problem.
IMG_20210406_093925.jpg
 

Armenius

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Hey, I've been wondering - The Peak Brightness setting seems important but it is greyed out in both SDR and HDR modes when I am in "PC INPUT" on m pc. These are available on ps5 with "console input".
Does that mean that these settings are set to high or off ? What would it do in sdr anyway if am set to Oled Light 30, then the tv never dims below 120nits as it can hold this brightness even on full screen no problem.
View attachment 345565
The peak brightness alters the ABL behavior so SDR can get brighter. A setting of 'high' can get close to 500 nits with a 2% window compared to 300 nits with it turned off. I assume they disable it in PC mode to protect the screen.
 

PittyH

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It was delivered. I got it configured. Woah.
I don't know if anyone has helped you out yet.
But i also have a C9 with a 2080ti
What arrived? i have both adapters the club3d and the cable matters.

Forget VRR on a 2080ti unless you want 60hz which no one does.

Go with either adapter and a ultra high speed cable for 4k 120hz 10/12bit
 

alxlwson

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I don't know if anyone has helped you out yet.
But i also have a C9 with a 2080ti
What arrived? i have both adapters the club3d and the cable matters.

Forget VRR on a 2080ti unless you want 60hz which no one does.

Go with either adapter and a ultra high speed cable for 4k 120hz 10/12bit

I followed a guide sheet I found on the reddit super thread on it.
I have a CX with the 2080Ti.
Used the cablematters usb-c adapter. Running 4k120Hz full rgb 10bit

8798539.png
 
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kasakka

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If you want to try DSR for some 8K craziness etc, you might want to use CRU to remove the 4096x2160 resolutions completely from the EDID. Otherwise the DSR settings will be based on that resolution so they are a bad match for the real 3840x2160 res. I wish you could just disable 4Kx2K support from some menu on the TV because that is basically a useless resolution for 99% of users since the display can't actually show it correctly since it doesn't have the pixels.
 

PittyH

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I followed a guide sheet I found on the reddit super thread on it.
I have a CX with the 2080Ti.
Used the cablematters usb-c adapter. Running 4k120Hz full rgb 10bit

Ahh ok, so you got your adpater working, kk nice, grats, looks amazing doesn't it? now go try some youtube 4k60 hdr videos here https://www.youtube.com/user/jacobschwarz
I know it's only 60hz but they still look amazing. Try Peru, Bulgaria and Morocco.
 

alxlwson

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Ahh ok, so you got your adpater working, kk nice, grats, looks amazing doesn't it? now go try some youtube 4k60 hdr videos here https://www.youtube.com/user/jacobschwarz
I know it's only 60hz but they still look amazing. Try Peru, Bulgaria and Morocco.

It is absolutely amazing indeed.
Wife and I watched "Bright" on it last night, and now she wants one for the living room.
 

lludson

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Jan 19, 2011
Messages
60
Freaking nightmare just happened for me. My windows screen saver is suddenly not turning on, and my triple 48's stayed on for the past 18 hours or so with my windows and icons. I have image retention and possibly burn in on my center screen from a white box that was on a web page, a small notepad window, and even my desktop icons, which I have religiously moved around to prevent this issue.

Has anyone run into something like this? I see the LG pixel refresher in the menus but don't really know what it's about. What can I do?

I am gutted. I've been very careful to date. I can move my main screen to the side and center one with no burn in. But UGH. So gutted. It's only noticeable with flat colours. But that's like the sky for me in driving sims. I'll see it.
 

Kev13Dd

n00b
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
48
Freaking nightmare just happened for me. My windows screen saver is suddenly not turning on, and my triple 48's stayed on for the past 18 hours or so with my windows and icons. I have image retention and possibly burn in on my center screen from a white box that was on a web page, a small notepad window, and even my desktop icons, which I have religiously moved around to prevent this issue.

Has anyone run into something like this? I see the LG pixel refresher in the menus but don't really know what it's about. What can I do?

I am gutted. I've been very careful to date. I can move my main screen to the side and center one with no burn in. But UGH. So gutted. It's only noticeable with flat colours. But that's like the sky for me in driving sims. I'll see it.
There is an "auto off" setting in the TV, highly recommend you turn it on. It can be annoying at times but it's worth it

Definitely run the pixel refresher
 

lludson

n00b
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Jan 19, 2011
Messages
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Ok. I am 20 minutes into the pixel refresher and will report back. Any use in running that several times if I still see stuff?

I will look for auto off. Thanks for that! I gotta figure out why my screen saver isn't working. Power management used to turn them off at 30 minutes too. Not working. I did a windows updato to no effect. I will try unplugging USB stuff.
 

Armenius

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Ok. I am 20 minutes into the pixel refresher and will report back. Any use in running that several times if I still see stuff?

I will look for auto off. Thanks for that! I gotta figure out why my screen saver isn't working. Power management used to turn them off at 30 minutes too. Not working. I did a windows updato to no effect. I will try unplugging USB stuff.
I would try to avoid running the pixel refresher consecutively because the voltage cycling it does will wear out the pixels faster. The TV will automatically run the refresher when it's turned off after a certain number of operating hours, so there is usually no need to run it manually unless situations like yours happens. If you're paranoid just manually turn the TVs off when you walk away from your PC.
 

Cali3350

Supreme [H]ardness
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Messages
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Yes, do not run the voltage refresher often. I would actually recommend you never run it, as the TV will run it itself from time to time, and thats usually enough.

Turn the OLED off and give it some time. I highly doubt 18 hours of static content caused permanent burn in. Leave it off, let the voltage settle, and see what it looks like,.
 

lludson

n00b
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Jan 19, 2011
Messages
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Ok, guys thanks for all the tips. I am happy to report the image retention is gone. Thank god. I will look for the auto off and try to find out the reason my screen saver and power management is not working. Appreciate all the help!
 

lludson

n00b
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
60
Ok, I found the auto off timer which was under "timers". The 4 hour automatic shut off was already selected. But maybe it only functions for use as a TV and not desktop use?

EDIT: Also unplugged a bunch of USB's. My screen saver and power management works again. I will spend some time later checking for which device it was. If you guys run into your SS not working, definitely unplug stuff and find out what's keeping the computer live.

Whew, ok. Carry on!
 
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HiCZoK

Gawd
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Sep 18, 2006
Messages
838
Still conflicted if I should return my 48" c1 with 2 dead subpixels in 1 pixel... probably not.
Is there any chance full pixel refresh will wake these pixels ?
Y5bBzGT.jpg

btw, this is where it is:
SmXXqOC.jpg
 

Kev13Dd

n00b
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
48
Ok, I found the auto off timer which was under "timers". The 4 hour automatic shut off was already selected. But maybe it only functions for use as a TV and not desktop use?

EDIT: Also unplugged a bunch of USB's. My screen saver and power management works again. I will spend some time later checking for which device it was. If you guys run into your SS not working, definitely unplug stuff and find out what's keeping the computer live.

Whew, ok. Carry on!
It works for me during desktop use. Mine is set for 2 hours and even in the middle of playing a game it will give me the "please press a button within 5 minutes or your TV will turn off" prompt

Definitely never trust Windows screen savers or sleep. You never know what program might trick Windows into staying awake
 
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elvn

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Ok, I found the auto off timer which was under "timers". The 4 hour automatic shut off was already selected. But maybe it only functions for use as a TV and not desktop use?

EDIT: Also unplugged a bunch of USB's. My screen saver and power management works again. I will spend some time later checking for which device it was. If you guys run into your SS not working, definitely unplug stuff and find out what's keeping the computer live.

Whew, ok. Carry on!

Yeah I've said it almost every time screen savers come up in this thread. I do not recommend trusting them at all. Not only can screen savers fail but crashed app notification windows can take the top layer above one floating there static, even if very unlikely - your pc could very rarely spontaneously reboot/crash and get stuck on a bios screen or logon screen, or your gpu itself could crash leaving noise or other frozen content on the screen.

Every time I walk away from the OLED I just hold the mic button down on the remote and tell it to "turn off the screen". It does a 5 sec countdown and turns the emitters off without dropping the displays from the windows/nvidia array or affecting anything running (including sounds unless you mute those separately). It doesn't even affect or drop a game running in full screen exclusive HDR, eARC sound. When you want to go back to what you were doing you just hit any button on the remote (like pushing the direction wheel on one side) and the emitters turn back on instantly. This is completely seamless unlike alt-tabbing with a fullscreen exclusive HDR mode game since it's actually running the whole time in the display as far as the operating system and gpu are concerned, it's just not being shown on the emitters. I'm leaving for hours or going to sleep I turn the screen off completely to standby using the power button so that it can run wear-evening routines if it needs to but if I ever forgot to it would already be in the "turn off the screen" emitters off mode anyway.

It's very easy to get sidetracked even after taking a bathroom break or whipping up a snack or a drink, getting a delivery etc... phone calls, someone shows up or just get derailed doing something or looking for something etc. or to just plain forget.
 

Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
307
I followed a guide sheet I found on the reddit super thread on it.
I have a CX with the 2080Ti.
Used the cablematters usb-c adapter. Running 4k120Hz full rgb 10bit

View attachment 345874

This is a very handy chart for optimal settings, considering most OLED topics have like 10,000+ pages of replies (especially AVS Forums) with everyone making comments about optimal settings.
Does anyone here have any notable objections for these settings? (just PC only, can care less about consoles). I realize it's HDMI 2.1 GPU only settings. Thanks!
 

madpistol

Limp Gawd
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May 17, 2020
Messages
501
Ok, guys thanks for all the tips. I am happy to report the image retention is gone. Thank god. I will look for the auto off and try to find out the reason my screen saver and power management is not working. Appreciate all the help!
You really do have to abuse the screen in order for there to be permanent burn-in. It's actually "burn-out" where the pixels dim to the point of being noticeably darker than the rest of the screen. Image retention can usually be solved by simply turning off the screen for a while or running pixel refresher.

Glad to hear all is well.
 

HiCZoK

Gawd
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Sep 18, 2006
Messages
838
Dude, return it. It's a to of the line premium tv. You paid for excellence
I've ran full pixel refresher once to maybe fix the dead pixel but it didn't do anything.
In the end i think I better chill out. It's not worth to replace it probably... and I would have to give back LG fn7 wireless earbuds which I got as a preorder gift
 

alxlwson

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I've ran full pixel refresher once to maybe fix the dead pixel but it didn't do anything.
In the end i think I better chill out. It's not worth to replace it probably... and I would have to give back LG fn7 wireless earbuds which I got as a preorder gift

No you wouldn't.

Are you that scared to make a phone call for an exchange? Do you not value your hard earned money?
 

HiCZoK

Gawd
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Messages
838
No you wouldn't.

Are you that scared to make a phone call for an exchange? Do you not value your hard earned money?
I did in fact. The store said I can just return full order and order again (or from another place), so then I give gifts back too. They cannot offer me an exchange for new unit. Only return.
Or I can contact lg at any time and they would swap the panel. If I am to do that, maybe it's better to do after a year when more problems appear.
I agree about money and stuff but in the end let's not go too crazy over this. Now even if I ignore earbuds, I need to move the desk, pack the unit, return and pay for shipping, wait for money back and hope for better luck on next order. That's almost a month of inconvinience.
Anyway - I know You are right but there is some merit to just trying to fight with ocd and be chill
 

Armenius

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I did in fact. The store said I can just return full order and order again (or from another place), so then I give gifts back too. They cannot offer me an exchange for new unit. Only return.
Or I can contact lg at any time and they would swap the panel. If I am to do that, maybe it's better to do after a year when more problems appear.
I agree about money and stuff but in the end let's not go too crazy over this. Now even if I ignore earbuds, I need to move the desk, pack the unit, return and pay for shipping, wait for money back and hope for better luck on next order. That's almost a month of inconvinience.
Anyway - I know You are right but there is some merit to just trying to fight with ocd and be chill
LG doesn't have a defined number of acceptable dead pixels, so it wouldn't hurt to contact them about it. They will probably ask for pictures of it so they can determine whether or not a replacement is warranted. Two subpixels may honestly not be enough, so if you're still eligible for a full return at the retailer I would take it and just buy another one. I find any dead pixels unacceptable no matter the type of display.
 

kasakka

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I find that dead pixels are not as bad as subpixels getting lit in the wrong color. I used to have a bright red pixel on white background happening on a 30" Dell I had and it was annoying. Also if the dead pixel is anywhere near the center it's going to be a far worse problem than one on the edge of a display.
 

TwistedMetalGear

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Sigghhh. Sucks that dead pixels are still an issue on modern displays. Though I guess it makes sense when you cram 8 million pixels into a display. That's 8 million chances of a defect. Your replacement display might have even more dead pixels. The whole display buying process is a lottery and I hate it. It actually gives me anxiety. It should be exciting! But nope, gotta worry about dead pixels, backlight bleed, uniformity issues, etc...
 

sharknice

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Sigghhh. Sucks that dead pixels are still an issue on modern displays. Though I guess it makes sense when you cram 8 million pixels into a display. That's 8 million chances of a defect. Your replacement display might have even more dead pixels. The whole display buying process is a lottery and I hate it. It actually gives me anxiety. It should be exciting! But nope, gotta worry about dead pixels, backlight bleed, uniformity issues, etc...

Dead pixels seem to be less common in OLEDs than LCDs and you don't need to worry about backlight bleed, also uniformity is much, much better. I have 2 OLED TVs and neither has a dead pixel. I actually have never gotten a dead pixel on the 9 LCD monitors and TV I've bought either though, so maybe I'm just lucky. When you buy premium model you generally get better quality control so there's less chance of getting dead pixels. It sucks if you do get a dead pixel, but you can typically get it replaced no problem, whereas if it's a lower end model policies may not allow it.
 

vegeta535

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I honestly have never seen a dead/stuck pixel on a TV. Only time I even seen a dead pixel was on one of those old 1440 korean monitors that were the rage years ago and it was only one.
 

TwistedMetalGear

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I can't say that I've seen a dead pixel on a TV either, however I sit so far away from my TV's that I probably wouldn't notice them.

On a related note, some coworkers and I rented out a private movie theater a few weeks back and played some video games on the big screen. We had to set up the console right in front of the screen and I noticed several dead pixels. They were HUGE. But you never even notice them when you're in the audience because you're so far away. I guess even high end movie theater projectors aren't immune to dead pixels.
 

elvn

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Backlight bleed is commonly due to LCD's being edge lit, flashlighting and flaring from the sides. OLED is per pixel emissive and has no backlight.

It does go through a color layer with LG's WOLED method so it could be thought of being in some way like a per pixel isolated FALD made of white oled emitters if you want to think of it that way. Still not large vs pixel size like separate backlights balancing against other fald zones making dim/glow "halos" so as to not overpower each other any more than possible to avoid... and not a few edge lights flashlighting from the sides and playing against each other.

Some LCD screens also get bleed because their plastic frames/housings are imperfectly sandwiched or warped. They also tend to ship with very high brightness setting by default which exacerbates the issue.

I had what appears to be a bad pixel or pixels (dead/black) on my VA living room tv after years of use but it gets a lot of hot sunlight from the picture window it has it's black back to so it takes a beating. I can hear the housing crack/pop at different time of day when the temperature changes. That's one reason I'm avoiding an oled upgrade in the living room until I remodel and flip the floor plan around someday. I still might avoid oled there due to usage habits outside of mine. :rolleyes:
 
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sharknice

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One of the other retailer websites on their site said it was available now, I never actually went through to try to add it to cart and see if was actually shipping though.
 
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