LG 48CX

elvn

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these would work.. one is around $115 + tax, the other is more like $235 + tax

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You don't need a dining room table you just need to break away from the mindset that you need to be sitting with your desk and face right in front of a bookshelf against a wall layout in order to be using a desk and display. Space permitting of course. I know that's how many computers were first set up in a tiny niche in a bedroom or front hall as an afterthought but for some people their computer is a full multimedia center more like an island desk command center gaming theater..

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edit:
In fact, depending on what you are using it for and where you are putting it, you don't even need a traditional desk at all...
Couchmaster Lap Desk Gallery
 
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SixFootDuo

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For those of you that don't mind 7" additional inches on your desk, The Samsung 55" RU80000 is 1440p 120hz Native. Amazing picture, 1ms G2G and 9ms input lag. Best of all, it's cheap at around $500 - 550 - $600 shipped.

I'm using the 2018 NU8000 and it's simply amazing.

I'm pretty sure I will just go with the 55" LG instead of the 48" as it will give me options down the road. 7" is not going to make or break me
 

sharknice

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these would work.. one is around $115 + tax, the other is more like $235 + tax

View attachment 236229

View attachment 236230


You don't need a dining room table you just need to break away from the mindset that you need to be sitting with your desk and face right in front of a bookshelf against a wall layout in order to be using a desk and display. Space permitting of course. I know that's how many computers were first set up in a tiny niche in a bedroom or front hall as an afterthought but for some people their computer is a full multimedia center more like an island desk command center gaming theater..

View attachment 236231

View attachment 236232


edit:
In fact, depending on what you are using it for and where you are putting it, you don't even need a traditional desk at all...
Couchmaster Lap Desk Gallery

Yes, you have to think differently about your desk. A narrow surface for just your keyboard and mouse is what you want. The tv goes on another surface or mount and the bottom of the screen will actually be lower than your keyboard otherwise you're looking up causing neck strain.
 

GoldenTiger

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For those of you that don't mind 7" additional inches on your desk, The Samsung 55" RU80000 is 1440p 120hz Native. Amazing picture, 1ms G2G and 9ms input lag. Best of all, it's cheap at around $500 - 550 - $600 shipped.

I'm using the 2018 NU8000 and it's simply amazing.

I'm pretty sure I will just go with the 55" LG instead of the 48" as it will give me options down the road. 7" is not going to make or break me
Glad you like it so much but it's really not in the same league as a 4k 120 with VRR and OLED. This puppy will be $1k for black Friday.
 

bigbluefe

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This bad boy is going to be the display to use for next gen consoles. I can’t think of what killer feature LG can implement in the next rev, outside of refinements.

I'm going to laugh if the PS5 and Xbox don't support HDMI 2.1. They're stupid enough to miss it.
 

kasakka

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This bad boy is going to be the display to use for next gen consoles. I can’t think of what killer feature LG can implement in the next rev, outside of refinements.

Iterative things like higher brightness for even better HDR, maybe BFI with less input lag, BFI together with VRR, support for more resolutions with the display scaler (unlikely but would be nice). I would like to see better settings menus as they are often confusing with multiple "additional settings" type submenus for no good reason. Remote is a bit of a mess too with a huge number of buttons most people won't use.

Picture by picture features would be very welcome. It has the inputs for that, would allow for things like playing on two consoles on the same screen or using multiple different computers. The TVs have a feature called Multi-view but it can only show TV and HDMI side by side. Apparently in older models you could use two HDMI sources but not anymore for some reason. The multiview mode does not seem very good as it puts two windows in the center rather than properly splitting it to say quadrants or halves.

But ultimately they have a really killer package here that is hard to fault for anything but size and burn-in. Making a 40-43" model would be awesome.
 

zehoo

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How many people use a 2x2 array of 24" monitors?

I run that with 4x27” monitors and 1x43”. I don‘t always use them all though, I generally have on what I need at the time. I couldn’t bare to not make use of my old qnix and catleap as I’d pulled them apart to remove all backlight bleed and I modded the catleap with a prototype gsync unit off eBay.
 

Tol

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Here's an example of the 55" C9 on one of those mounts. I bought the one with 2 shelves that hold my power strip, switch, and a few other things. The desk was actually sold as a dining room table...36" x 72". I was fully expecting to switch to the 48" this year when it came out but now that I've had the 55" for a while I'm used to the size. I switch to 3840x1600 pretty often for gaming and that ends up being something like a 51" ultrawide that starts about 4.5" above my desk.

As stated above, at the proper viewing distance these guys don't feel too big after using them for just a few days and these stands from Amazon are great. Certainly not great for competitive gaming, but the size can't be beat for immersion.

IMG_0459.jpg

IMG_0460.jpg

IMG_0462.jpg
 
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N4CR

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This bad boy is going to be the display to use for next gen consoles. I can’t think of what killer feature LG can implement in the next rev, outside of refinements.
Only thing that could do with more work (possibly - depends on reviews/updates) is BFI and as a side, large jumps in OLED brightness and reliability. Even that wouldn't' tempt me to upgrade from the 48CX for some time due to slow progression and it would be a long way down the road.
I'm curious if the increase brightness approach will work with BFI.
Reason is,with BFI you have down to 50% duty cycle depending on setting. Maybe more? So even at 100 brightness, your pulsed output (thinking in terms of lasers) is going to be 50% of maximum for power output.. the OLEDs will not be running at maximum temperature and output and may still avoid burn in or major ABL unless the scene is particularly bright. There is still ramp time which I am not considering, which would reduce that further depending on how they setup BFI.
That said the thermal cycling if applicable (never worked with OLED material) could be something to consider there but I think it will be minimal give the area.

Here's an example of the 55" C9 on one of those mounts.
Cool setup. Could you make a photo with it in UW mode? Curious to see what that looks like in terms of FOV/size..
 

elvn

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What is that top one elvn?

Not sure of the first tv stand , there are a lot of different ones on amazon. Here are a few at $75 - $80 each with 4.5/5 star review history from there. The first is flat foot and the second is a wider base on wheels.

Max height of stand 49" - 55" extension
https://www.amazon.com/TAVR-Universal-Adjustable-Tempered-Storage/dp/B07MKK75K8/
61BxXg8rV1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

50" - 72" height of stand extension
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791YF5YK/

61vIL3MsyJL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

For the $150 - $240 range you can get the next tier up in quality and casters etc from displays2go. They also sell on amazon but in some cases it's cheaper to buy from them directly.
Displays2go site's TV floor stand index:
https://www.displays2go.com/Class/Floor-Stands-1092



I'm guessing that difference between those $80 amazon ones and the displays2go pricier ones is probably the quality of materials and build -- weight of the metal frames, less plastic, metal screws/adjustments, better casters if a wheeled one etc. There are also maximum extended heights to consider. The cheaper amazon ones, after reading some reviews, seem a solid affordable choice though and once it's set up the difference could be negligible other than casters which you could probably upgrade youself separately if necessary. I upgraded the casters on my desk and chair to much better ones.

edit: just realized the 2nd one I listed in this reply has a small shelf on it. Be careful of whether a particular stand has a shelf or not because if using the stand behind a desk it could butt up against back of desk depending on the desk design . The shelf on that one is 9.5" deep.
 
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Skott

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I been using two Ikea dining room tables in my room last 6 years. 37 " wide. Plenty wide (deep) for a tv like this 48. Not sold on it yet though. Waiting for actual reviews. If I do want it I'll need to upgrade my 1080Ti for a 3080Ti anyway so waiting isnt a issue. Not keen on spending a lot of money right now anyhow with this CV situation.
 

Tol

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Both of the stands that I bought are FITUEYES branded.
- This is the one behind my desk in the photos above: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X9TN1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- And I got one for my mom to fit behind her existing TV stand because the stand wasn't meant to hold a 75" tv: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X9TN1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mainly bought the ones I did because they were on sale at the time. Even though my mom's has the shelf, I just didn't attach it and then it's the same as the one with no shelf....the shelved one was cheaper. They are super basic steel and thick tempered glass. The height on them is fairly adjustable. I certainly estimated where I thought things should go, but then there are multiple hooks on the pieces that are attached to the tv about 2" apart. The main thing was to get it as low as possible so that I didn't have to crane my neck up to see the top of the screen, and that's also what the 48" should help with. (once in an ultrawide resolution, this potential issue goes away entirely)
 

caffix

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Both of the stands that I bought are FITUEYES branded.
- This is the one behind my desk in the photos above: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X9TN1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- And I got one for my mom to fit behind her existing TV stand because the stand wasn't meant to hold a 75" tv: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X9TN1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mainly bought the ones I did because they were on sale at the time. Even though my mom's has the shelf, I just didn't attach it and then it's the same as the one with no shelf....the shelved one was cheaper. They are super basic steel and thick tempered glass. The height on them is fairly adjustable. I certainly estimated where I thought things should go, but then there are multiple hooks on the pieces that are attached to the tv about 2" apart. The main thing was to get it as low as possible so that I didn't have to crane my neck up to see the top of the screen, and that's also what the 48" should help with. (once in an ultrawide resolution, this potential issue goes away entirely)

Thanks for the link, this has suddenly made this monitor/TV a possibility for my setup.
 

elvn

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My 43" screens are 7 and 3/4" high above my desk surface on arms, ~ 8" above the desk to where the visible screen starts. However my chair is taller ever since I swapped the cheap plastic caster wheels that came with it to 3" tall roller blade style wheels last year. That and I added some memory foam cushions on the seat, backrest, headrest, and arms. So now I sit a little higher than the regular cushion on top of the wheels since the memory foam seat rest is boosting it a little higher, but the seat cushion smashes down some.


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Putting a 48" LG CX centered compared to my current 43" for comparison's sake:

- a 48" would be 4.3" wider so would overhang the 43" by 2.15" on each side.

- a 48" would be 2.4" taller so could overhang the 43" by 1.2" on both top and the bottom.

.. So centered in the same place as my 43", the 48" visible screen would still be around 7" above my desk surface.. considering the increased height I'd probably drop it a bit more and keep all the extra height space on the bottom, matching the height of my 43"'s top frame now -- which would still mean the 48" CX would be around 6 to 6.6" above the desk to where the pixels start.

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Layouts are highly dependent on different variables. Like I said, your seated height matters. How far away the monitors are and at what angle your chair is also matters (also potentially the downward/upward angle of the monitors in some setups). In my case I have full head and neck support (and arm support) so I sit leaning back just slightly but it ends up being enough to allow me to see the tops of the screens easier.

In general my personal preference for a single monitor is that the angle of your eyes/head as well as your height vs distance relationship should be angled to be looking within the middle 1/3 of the screen - as if there was an invisible belt across the middle 3rd of the screen. From that center band you should be able to look up and down and to the sides pretty easily. (Unless you are sitting very close for 21:10 rez racing immersion or something where you wouldn't be able to see the sides in focus without turning your head more). If you need to tower over so your direct gaze is in the top 1/3 of your monitor imo you are sitting too close but to each his own.

337823_A7gEgdY.png

Regarding width - using multiple large monitors I'm fine with turning my chair and gaze slightly to either side to see more of the side monitors but I still like to be far enough away that they are within my peripheral view. Viewing one of my large monitors head on in landscape mode - the monitor's outer periphery should be visible just rolling my eyes around in a relaxed radius like 15 deg or so off center left to right -not having to strain them to the extents "eye bending". That whole setup will change with the 48" CX though since I am going to switch my side monitors to portrait mode then.
 

zehoo

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It’s looking likely that LG aren’t going to release the 48” into the Australian market which is quite sad for me. They released a price list with all their models for the year and the 48” isn’t on it. Of course they may have just not included it for other reasons, I’ll just have to wait and see.

I hope everyone enjoys their new monitors when they get them. I’ll be sitting here with envy in my eyes.
 

elvn

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Made a visual editing the placement of a comparison I plugged into displaywars.com in order to give myself a better idea of the size comparison I was talking about:

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N4CR

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It’s looking likely that LG aren’t going to release the 48” into the Australian market which is quite sad for me. They released a price list with all their models for the year and the 48” isn’t on it. Of course they may have just not included it for other reasons, I’ll just have to wait and see.

I hope everyone enjoys their new monitors when they get them. I’ll be sitting here with envy in my eyes.
Contact them on their website and tell them, also means they'll probably do the same shit in poozealand as well if this is the case. The one accessible screen for smaller bedrooms and monitor use isn't sold.. typical. I emailed them.
If they don't sell them here I can source from EU. But still, sort it out LG..
 

NukeDukem

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My 55CX was delivered today, needless to say I'm a happy camper here in quarantine! Quick dirty setup pic:
20200409_175646.jpg


1440p/120Hz and 4k/120Hz Gsync both working w/ a 1.4 AmazonBasics HDMI cable & Strix 2080Ti. Very impressed so far!
 

Jctricky

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My 55CX was delivered today, needless to say I'm a happy camper here in quarantine! Quick dirty setup pic:
View attachment 236744

1440p/120Hz and 4k/120Hz Gsync both working w/ a 1.4 AmazonBasics HDMI cable & Strix 2080Ti. Very impressed so far!

Hello, so you say we can have 4k gync 120 hertz on this monitor, but can we have true hdr with gsync compatible mode on ?
Gsync works well.? Do you feel any imput lag.?
 

Pastuch

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My 55CX was delivered today, needless to say I'm a happy camper here in quarantine! Quick dirty setup pic:
View attachment 236744

1440p/120Hz and 4k/120Hz Gsync both working w/ a 1.4 AmazonBasics HDMI cable & Strix 2080Ti. Very impressed so far!

Thank you for posting here and providing the details of your setup. Can you please test BFI (OLED motion pro in the TV settings) on high at both 1440p and 4k? We would love to hear your impressions of the different BFI modes too.

Another new development this year is 'OLED Motion Pro', which is a more effective version of the BFI (Black Frame Insertion) system found in previous OLED TVs. BFI inserts black frames into the video stream to 'reset' the human eye in order to make motion appear less blurry. You can achieve similar results (plus more) by increasing the frame rate of the content (i.e. 4K120 or higher) but it is nice to have BFI as an option for lower frame rate content, too, in order to replicate more "plasma-like" motion on an OLED panel. The improved 120Hz BFI system was actually intended for LG Display's 2019 OLED panel but was pulled before release. Now it has reappeared in the 2020 OLED panel and as such it will also be available in OLED TVs from competing brands, too.
 

Armenius

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Hello, so you say we can have 4k gync 120 hertz on this monitor, but can we have true hdr with gsync compatible mode on ?
Gsync works well.? Do you feel any imput lag.?
No, HDMI 2.0 does not have the bandwidth for 10-bit RGB at 4K. He is most likely running YCbCr 4:2:0 to get 120 Hz. You can only get a max of 4:2:2 at 60 Hz and 10-bit with HDMI 2.0.
 

whateverer

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No, HDMI 2.0 does not have the bandwidth for 10-bit RGB at 4K. He is most likely running YCbCr 4:2:0 to get 120 Hz. You can only get a max of 4:2:2 at 60 Hz and 10-bit with HDMI 2.0.

Right, but HDMI 2.1 has nothing near such bandwith limits. There's nothig stopping the display from supporting 4k HDR 4:4:4 @ 120hz.
 

Armenius

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Right, but HDMI 2.1 has nothing near such bandwith limits. There's nothig stopping the display from supporting 4k HDR 4:4:4 @ 120hz.
There are no video cards with HDMI 2.1 outputs yet, and you need a 2.1 "Ultra High Speed" cable to be able to use the 2.1 bandwidth.
 

elvn

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FlatPanelsHD Review: LG CX OLED 24 Mar 2020 | Rasmus Larsen

"it seems to us that the 2020 implementation sacrifices brightness to a higher degree. In LG CX there are five levels for OLED Motion Pro (Off, Low, Medium, High and Auto). With a special test pattern we measured 'Off' to 318 nits brightness, 'Low' to 273 nits, 'Medium' to 187 nits and 'High' to 77 nits. The exact brightness values are not important so focus on the relative change in brightness: 'Low' will reduce brightness by 15%, 'Medium' by 40% and 'High' by 75%. The 'High' setting produces visible flicker and is not recommended for any type of content (it should probably be removed). 'Medium' is more effective at increasing motion resolution than 'Low' but brightness obviously takes a more significant hit. Lastly, there is an 'Auto' option that varies between 'Low' and 'Medium' but avoids 'High'. The conclusion? Well, at its two lower settings the BFI system is definitely useful now, as opposed to BFI in previous years' OLED TVs, but improved motion resolution comes at the expense of a reduction in brightness that is a little higher than we had hoped. Also note that by engaging 'OLED Motion Pro' input lag increases slightly to 22 ms. "
--------------------------------------------------------------

Thank you for posting here and providing the details of your setup. Can you please test BFI (OLED motion pro in the TV settings) on high at both 1440p and 4k? We would love to hear your impressions of the different BFI modes too.

Another new development this year is 'OLED Motion Pro', which is a more effective version of the BFI (Black Frame Insertion) system found in previous OLED TVs. BFI inserts black frames into the video stream to 'reset' the human eye in order to make motion appear less blurry. You can achieve similar results (plus more) by increasing the frame rate of the content (i.e. 4K120 or higher) but it is nice to have BFI as an option for lower frame rate content, too, in order to replicate more "plasma-like" motion on an OLED panel. The improved 120Hz BFI system was actually intended for LG Display's 2019 OLED panel but was pulled before release. Now it has reappeared in the 2020 OLED panel and as such it will also be available in OLED TVs from competing brands, too.

BFI going to be too dark and flickery for me to even consider using it personally but would be nice to test for the people who are interested in it.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Assuming you rule out 75% outright, the 318 nit they are using as a basis with BFI off (and assumingly with ABL enabled~not avoided) gets
..cut 40% at medium BFI setting, which does mathematically result in 190.8 nit so is around what they measured at 187nit.
..on Low BFI 25% the math result is at 238.5nit which is lower than the 273nit they quoted as being measured so perhaps it's not as aggressive as a 25% brightness reduction, perhaps interpolation is on too which would makes sense if the input lag is higher. I'm not sure if the tradeoffs would be worth it runing low BFI compared rather than no BFI with a raw fps hovering around a 120fps+120Hz graph considering the PWM effect on your eyes and the input lag increase from BFI.
..
..Neither of those quotes show the after ABL values. ABL on regular SDR brightness cuts it down to around 140nit on a C9 before BFI brightness reduction is considered so if you used medium 40% you could end up with a result of 84nit* of scene color brightness/highlights/detail in areas of color post ABL.
...
..If you run at around 250nit color brightness/color detail ceiling in SDR with the contrast at 80 and peak brightness to "Off" in order to avoid ABL kicking in you end up with medium BFI reducing 40% of 250 -> probably having a result of around 140nit of color detail/brightness (which is coincidentally the same as what you get in the previous (default) ABL scenario after ABL kicks in but before BFI brightness reduction considerations if enabled).

--------------------------------------------------------------------
So would you want to run SDR on the screen:

..normally at ~ 320nit of color detail but seeing 140nit ABL kick in intermittently
..normally + medium BFI --> 190nit of color detail (320nit minus 40%) until ABL kicks in then down to as low as *84nit (40% strobe effect subtracted from 140nit ABL) . 40% blur reduction (compared to 60fps+60hz but not 120fps+120hz), PWM, input lag.

..ABL-avoiding 80contrast, peak brightness"off" ~> 250nit seeing no ABL triggering
..ABL-avoiding 80 contrast, peak brightness "off" ~> BFI active (250 nit minus 40%) lowering it to 140nit average screen brightness (and detail limit in fields of color) throughout. 40% blur reduction compared to 60fps+60Hz, perhaps 20% vs 120fps+120hz.. +PWM, input lag increase.

*That is because as I understand it - BFI's dimming effect is on the way our eyes perceive the screen meaning the LG ABL burn in safety tech would not realize the after-BFI-effecive-brightness so would still be operating normally as if BFI wasn't a factor.
 
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sethk

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Out of curiousity, elvn were you considering at a CX for yourself? Desktop or living room use (or both or something else)?
 

elvn

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Yes I'd like to get a 48" one when they come out if it all pans out. Timing is everything though so depends when. Eventually a 3080ti hybrid and a LG 48" CX, not necessarily in that order.

I know there are a lot of posts and I definitely type a lot in mine but if you looked back you'd see I said I was going to move my current desk setup which is on a 11.5' + long wall, of a 9'+ x 11.5' room, 90 degrees to the shorter 9'+ wall to the left of where it is now. If I was viewing the 48" CX singly I'd sit about 40"+ away to my eyeballs, perhaps a little closer if using 21:10 mode while playing a racing game for example - but my desk and chair are on wheels so with peripheral cables bundled together into an "umbilical cord" I can move forward and back wherever I want to from stowing it overlapping the monitor desk to as far back as I want for multiple/side monitors to stay in my periphery.

New array layout "schematics" (imgur gallery)
Just sit farther away if you can redo your setup somewhere that allows it, even using a separate freestanding tv mount and separate desk(s). Perceived size and perceived ppi are relative to viewing distance. I understand that some computer areas don't have the space for larger monitors though. I found out that space concerns are even worse for VR (including vertically) depending what kind of gameplay you want to do.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a separate smaller command center half circle desk on caster wheels. When I bought it it had a shelf that could be installed but I wanted it as a flat surface so that I could use it better with larger monitors and so that I could face it out from a wall instead of against the wall like a book shelf. I use a separate narrow bench like desk for my monitors. I bought both desks on sale at different times years ago from officemax or officedepot at $150 or less each but they are solid. The side monitors were $230 and $270 on sale each, respectively. The middle LG 32" GK850G 1440p I'll be replacing with the LG 48" CX was about $650 on sale back when I got that.

iWm1yYq.jpg


The half circle rolling desk is height adjustable with "T" screw in pins, like some workout machines. This allowed me to raise it high enough so that I could slide it over the top of the bench style desk the monitors are on. At least that is how I had it originally, with the far end of the circular desk overlapping the bench desk slightly. As my monitor array grew wider, I started rolling the half circle command center desk back farther to see more of the monitors so now, unlike in the picture, they are close to but not actually touching.


Once I get the LG 48 CX, I'll have to move my whole setup 90deg to the wall on my left and considering how much cabling and peripherals I have that will take some work. The reason I want to shift it 90deg to the adjacent wall is that it is a rectangular room around 11' 6" x 9' 2" and I think it would work out better having it setup the long way. I measured my current 3 monitor array length and it is 7' long from outer edge to outer edge of the bezels of the outer monitors. I already used some monitor size calculator to figure out how wide the 48" LG CX would be (in landscape obviously) with my current 43" end monitors rotated into portrait mode and it surprisingly came out to be 7' again.


However this time I will be moving my half circle~xbox controller looking desk on wheels farther back. From my experience, 48" would require at least 40" viewing distance as a minimum but that is as a single monitor.
View attachment 236181

Considering the two side monitors making it an overall 7' array along with the much larger size of the new 48" center monitor I will probably move it back a bit farther - but not so much that I see all 3 monitors in their entirety without spinning my chair a bit or turning my head. I'll start around 4' away and see how well I like it. What's nice about having the separate wheeled desk is that I can make a peripheral wiring bound umbilical cord and roll the desk back as far as I want while still being able to roll it right up against the monitor "bench style" desk when not in use.. or if I want to use the room for a small VR space. I'll also be able to move the desk and chair closer or farther away depending on what type of game I'm playing and even what aspect ratio if I play some in 16:10 rez at 1:1 pixel.

New array layout "schematics" (imgur gallery)
 
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NukeDukem

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Can you please test BFI (OLED motion pro in the TV settings) on high at both 1440p and 4k? We would love to hear your impressions of the different BFI modes too.

"TruMotion" turned on dims the image. Very "bleh" IMO. I did not notice any improvement on motion clarity, just degraded picture quality. I'll try it out at 4k on something that kills my framerate and report back if I change my opinion. For now my overall best experience (in gaming) is definitely at 1440p/120Hz/G-Sync! I am pleasantly relieved at how good 1440p looks on such a big "monitor". 4k is nice but I am a frame whore and need my 110+ FPS. The 3080Ti can't come soon enough!
 

RPGWiZaRD

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I think "low" setting will be my set & forget setting that I believe will probably be ideal for most people (just turn up brightness a few notches and you're almost equal to being "off" as you're not going to use 100% brightness with it off anyways) but good if "auto" jumps between low-medium depending on occasion. I still expect a big difference in motion clarity vs off at "low". But I'm specifically a motion clarity enthusiast that didn't jump onto LCDs until 120Hz arrived and I'm using on my current 240Hz monitor strobing always set on as it improves the motion smoothness so much (on for example 144Hz+strobing I noticed much better motion smoothness than 240Hz and strobing off).
 
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Morkai

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
426
Does it work with non 16:9 inputs?
All monitors can do it (that I have ever tried), you simply get black bars. Normally it doesn't make sense (unless some specific game allows you to see more in 21:9 and you want an advantage), but on such a big screen with bandwidth constraints on current gpu's, it could be worth it. Maybe permanently on a shallow desk/limited depth space.
 
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kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
2,100
All monitors can do it (that I have ever tried), you simply get black bars. Normally it doesn't make sense (unless some specific game allows you to see more in 21:9 and you want an advantage), but on such a big screen with bandwidth constraints on current gpu's, it could be worth it. Maybe permanently on a shallow desk/limited depth space.

Not necessarily. At least on my LG C9 I could not get it to output anything more than the 16:9 resolutions it supports out of the box. It just gives me garbled or no image if I try to run for example 3840x1600 using the TV's scaler. Only way to do that is to use GPU scaling, which with HDMI 2.0 limits you to 60 Hz (or probably 120 Hz 8-bit 4:2:0 on the CX) since the GPU upscales the image to 4K.
 
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