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LG 48CX

If you can sit far enough away or you are doing 3840x1600 uw rez on racing going for the sides as immersion I don't see any problem with 55". It would also make for larger movies/video vs letterboxed title's sizing. It could also make the screen more useful down the road in another room as a "tv" if upgrading from it later on pc. I was considering the 55" heavily especially when it was on sale for $1200 at bb over black friday/cybermonday. I am actually within the return period still if I change my mind I guess.

I'm pretty happy with the 48" size overall though. If I went 55" it would push my side portrait mode monitors farther away, likely making me have to sit back a little father and prob having to scale the side monitors up another 25% so this is probably a better size.

854lCi4.png
 
elvn said:
Because they have been overcharging people for the luxury of a display port connection for the last few years which used to be the only way to get 120hz 4k or any VRR(g-sync/free-sync).

They had that 27" HDR FALD ips (13" tall for $2000) at least but then pushed some 43" 16:9 and other large size UW's without any local dimming at all ! and without real HDR.. yet still commanding $1500 - $2000 price tags.

I'm guessing another reason is because a lot of people are still stuck in the old "hide the pc up against the wall like a bookshelf" mindset so they still push out mostly 13" tall screens. Even most of the uw displays are 13" tall. The 38" uw are 14.4"h. the 48 CX is around 23.5"h.


For reference, ordered by height.. (roughly, based on raw sizes):
----------------------------------------------------------------

22.5" diagonal 16:10 .. 19.1" w x 11.9" h (1920x1200 ~ 100.6 ppi) FW900 crt

27.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 23.5" w x 13.2" h (2560x1440 ~ 108.79 ppi)
34.0" diagonal 21:9 .... 31.4" w x 13.1" h (3440x1440 ~ 109.68 ppi)

37.5" diagonal 21:10 .. 34.6" w x 14.4" h (3840x1600 ~ 110.93 ppi)

31.5" diagonal 16:9 .... 27.5" w x 15.4" h (2560x1440 ~ 93.24 ppi) .. (3840x2160 ~ 137.68ppi)

40.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 34.9"w x 19.6" h (3840x2160 ~ 110.15ppi)

43.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 37.5" w x 21.1" h (3840x2160 ~ 102.46 ppi)

48.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 41.8"w x 23.5" h (3840x2160 ~ 91.79 ppi)

55.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 47.9"w x 27.0"h (3840x2160 ~ 80.11 ppi)

----------------------------------------------------------------

* you also have to consider view distance in relation to the sizes and effective pixel density to your eyeballs obviously
Click to expand...
Height is not what people want or should want. Height is the enemy of a monitor. For ergonomic reasons a screen should actually sit so that its height is condinated witht he height of your eyes. Its not good if you need to look up. This is also my main battle witht he LG CX as a monitor. If I could cut that top part off so it was a 21:9 display with 3840x1600 instad and make the sides curve. This would be an awesome display. That fact that it is so wide without curve is a bit of a compromise. The same with the height. The width is not that big of a problem thou. Its the height. If I stretch my back and sit "correctly" My eyes are only about 2/3 up on the display height. That is not good. As most of the time my body will fall into it self and I will be sitting 1/2 of the height and thus need to look up a lot. Its not good for the neck and will possibly give headaches and backaches.

Sure I can just use the lower part. And that is infact what I am doing with FancyZones in PowerToys. But its not ideal.

Thats why I am looking heavily at LGs 38" ultrawide lineup. 3840x1600, 120-175hz, 98% P3 gamut, IPS etc. Its the cloest thing to a perfect monitor one could get. Just one problem. It still uses backlight etc because its a LCD. And I dont think I can ever go back to that. And ya.. They are also more expensive than 48-55" OLED. So.. ya.

But I still feel this 48" CX is a compromise because its not a computer monitor. Its a TV. So things like needing to shut it off. No Adobe RGB/ sRGB / P3 profile. The height, reflective as hell etc.. And that god aweful stand that take so much space and makes us sit so close to it. Still.. That picture quality.. Damn. I can never go back.
 
charlywiggin said:
Anyone with the latest driver and rtx 3090 have this problem: computer always BSOD within 3-5 mins of first start and then it’s fine after restarting. And then when I shutdown, it always BSOD on the first boot and then no problem gaming for hours on the restart. I noticed this happening with the latest drivers....wtf.
Click to expand...
Did you try a 460.97 hotfix driver ?
 
SmootyPoody said:
Height is not what people want or should want. Height is the enemy of a monitor. For ergonomic reasons a screen should actually sit so that its height is condinated witht he height of your eyes. Its not good if you need to look up. This is also my main battle witht he LG CX as a monitor. If I could cut that top part off so it was a 21:9 display with 3840x1600 instad and make the sides curve. This would be an awesome display. That fact that it is so wide without curve is a bit of a compromise. The same with the height. The width is not that big of a problem thou. Its the height. If I stretch my back and sit "correctly" My eyes are only about 2/3 up on the display height. That is not good. As most of the time my body will fall into it self and I will be sitting 1/2 of the height and thus need to look up a lot. Its not good for the neck and will possibly give headaches and backaches.

Sure I can just use the lower part. And that is infact what I am doing with FancyZones in PowerToys. But its not ideal.

Thats why I am looking heavily at LGs 38" ultrawide lineup. 3840x1600, 120-175hz, 98% P3 gamut, IPS etc. Its the cloest thing to a perfect monitor one could get. Just one problem. It still uses backlight etc because its a LCD. And I dont think I can ever go back to that. And ya.. They are also more expensive than 48-55" OLED. So.. ya.

But I still feel this 48" CX is a compromise because its not a computer monitor. Its a TV. So things like needing to shut it off. No Adobe RGB/ sRGB / P3 profile. The height, reflective as hell etc.. And that god aweful stand that take so much space and makes us sit so close to it. Still.. That picture quality.. Damn. I can never go back.
Click to expand...

I have a few recommendations for you to consider which work for me:

--a separate, height adjustable desk for your peripherals. Mine is sort of crescent/xbox controller shaped so has elbow arm space on it on the sides. I set it tall enough to overlap the desk my monitors are on
--a TV mount that allows you to set the TV at the peripheral desk height or lower. Mine is probably an inch below my peripheral desk (since I raised the peripheral desk's height slightly), but the tv is still in line with it more or less. Losing that last 1+ inch the stand has helps, especially over distance.
--a fully adjustable and with full support chair.
.....that means arms that go outward/inward and up down. Not just tilting "V" ing out. Adjust the arms in line with the peripheral desk (or just below it since my desk overlaps where my elbows are).
.... full head and neck support. Very important.
.....good height and the ability to tilt the entire chair part, not just leaning the back.

--Don't sit too close. The farther away you are, the lower your slope to the top of the screen. THX sweet spot is 45 to 50 deg viewing angle (width).
--replace the mini plastic caster wheels that come on most chairs (and my rolling desk) with 3rd party oversized "rollerblade style" wheels. This gives extra height and they are way better besides.
--Add memory foam backing, headrest, and seat (butt) cushions. They are designed for cars but work great for desk chairs. The butt cushion adds more height.
--add memory foam arm rests made for chairs (this works well with the extra height the thick memory foam seat cushion gives).
--add another cylinder shaped memory foam driving/flying cushion under the headrest cushion/gap between the headrest cushion and chair back cushion if necessary to keep your head and neck fully supported and in line.
-- consider purchasing a foot rest. (My rolling desk actually has a full wooden bottom plane built into it so is already good on that facet).
--Tilt your chair back just slightly to "sniffing position" if necessary. I do this because my side monitors are so tall in portrait in their top 1/3. I wouldn't need to for the 48" CX by itself.

At ~ 44" away or so, sitting straight upright, I'm looking at the top 1/3 band of the screen.
When I lean a hair into "sniffing position", I'm looking at the top 1/4 band of the screen.
If I lean my chair back a little more like a recliner with a controller playing a game, I can get back to 3/4 of the way up band.

You'd be surprised at how much your direct "invisible dotted line" of sight from your eyeballs changes with a few modifications. If I have the screen off with the room lit so I can see my reflection dimly in the daytime, holding my hand sideways over my head (as if shielding from the sun) reaches the top bezel of the screen in my reflection.

I do have to glance up at the tops of my side screens but it's an easy glance considering my head support and viewing angle. I do prioritize the most viewed things (using displayfusion for window and app placements combined with a stream decks' buttons) to be in the bottom 3/4 of the much taller 43" screens in portrait but I don't have to do that at all for the 48" CX. In fact I'd consider putting a 43.4" uw above the 48 CX someday considering how well this works for me. I could easily have went with a 55" CX with this setup and sat a little farther away but it would push my side monitors farther away and would probably require bumping the scaling of the side screens by +25% at that point. It would also have broken my rolling desk away from the one my monitors are on now with a gap.
 
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Yeah the latest drivers are shiet (460.89). Had my first ever game freeze on Doom Eternal right after updating to them, and I've been playing with 0 problems for last 2 months since I got my 3080. I might roll back if it keeps happening.
 
elvn said:
I have a few recommendations for you to consider which work for me:

--a separate, height adjustable desk for your peripherals. Mine is sort of crescent/xbox controller shaped so has elbow arm space on it on the sides. I set it tall enough to overlap the desk my monitors are on
--a TV mount that allows you to set the TV at the peripheral desk height or lower. Mine is probably an inch below my peripheral desk (since I raised the peripheral desk's height slightly), but the tv is still in line with it more or less. Losing that last 1+ inch the stand has helps, especially over distance.
--a fully adjustable and with full support chair.
.....that means arms that go outward/inward and up down. Not just tilting "V" ing out. Adjust the arms in line with the peripheral desk (or just below it since my desk overlaps where my elbows are).
.... full head and neck support. Very important.
.....good height and the ability to tilt the entire chair part, not just leaning the back.

--Don't sit too close. The farther away you are, the lower your slope to the top of the screen. THX sweet spot is 45 to 50 deg viewing angle (width).
--replace the mini plastic caster wheels that come on most chairs (and my rolling desk) with 3rd party oversized "rollerblade style" wheels. This gives extra height and they are way better besides.
--Add memory foam backing, headrest, and seat (butt) cushions. They are designed for cars but work great for desk chairs. The butt cushion adds more height.
--add memory foam arm rests made for chairs (this works well with the extra height the thick memory foam seat cushion gives).
--add another cylinder shaped memory foam driving/flying cushion under the headrest cushion/gap between the headrest cushion and chair back cushion if necessary to keep your head and neck fully supported and in line.
-- consider purchasing a foot rest. (My rolling desk actually has a full wooden bottom plane built into it so is already good on that facet).
--Tilt your chair back just slightly to "sniffing position" if necessary. I do this because my side monitors are so tall in portrait in their top 1/3. I wouldn't need to for the 48" CX by itself.

At ~ 46" away, sitting straight upright, I'm looking at the top 1/3 band of the screen.
When I lean a hair into "sniffing position", I'm looking at the top 1/4 band of the screen.
If I lean my chair back a little more like a recliner with a controller playing a game, I can get back to 3/4 of the way up band.

You'd be surprised at how much your direct "invisible dotted line" of sight from your eyeballs changes with a few modifications. If I have the screen off with the room lit so I can see my reflection dimly in the daytime, holding my hand sideways over my head (as if shielding from the sun) reaches the top bezel of the screen in my reflection.

I do have to glance up at the tops of my side screens but it's an easy glance considering my head support and viewing angle. I do prioritize the most viewed things (using displayfusion for window and app placements combined with a stream decks' buttons) to be in the bottom 3/4 of the much taller 43" screens in portrait but I don't have to do that at all for the 48" CX. In fact I'd consider putting a 43.4" uw above the 48 CX someday considering how well this works for me. I could easily have went with a 55" CX with this setup and sat a little farther away but it would push my side monitors farther away and would probably require bumping the scaling of the side screens by +25% at that point. It would also have broken my rolling desk away from the one my monitors are on now with a gap.
Click to expand...
I am not sure I totally understand that setup as I am more of a visual type. But it sounds great. Especially the lower mounted CX. It would help a lot. Thou it cannot be mounted to low as if the angle is too great on this screen the color changes. But I guess that can also be helped sitting further away.

I am on a height adjustable table and as such I need it to be adjustable with the table I am sitting with. So I cannot wall mount it, nor mount it lower on a seperate table (well I could, but I would need to shell out a lot more money. My biggest enemy is I am sitting rather close. I am getting the Ergotron HX in 2021 and hope it can help. I have a rather fine chair where my seating position is as it should be with 90 degree andgles on elboys, hip and knees.

I see you are sitting 46" away (roughly 120cm). That is a lot. So I can understand you have a much better angle. I dont find that distane feasable for a lot of people. I could at best sit 35" (~90cm) away. Gaming wise there is also some sick immersion going on sitting closer. It cover a lot of the peripheral vision. Especially sitting in a dark room. Thats why I run my screen either 3840x1440, 3840x1600 or 3840x2160 depending on the game. For productivity it is another matter. I am sitting about 25" (65cm) away right now and it is too close. So looking for a way to table mount it per the height adjustable matter (probably Ergotron HX).
 
So 2 months of CX usage, the one thing I've picked up on is there is a noticeable vertical band just left of center on my screen. I didn't go looking for it, but it shows up in some games with lots of greys / dark greys. I've probably only noticed it a few times, but obviously now that I saw it I notice it more often. I finally ran one of those grey banding tests on youtube and good god - I don't recommend running this if you are a perfectionist. Obviously I can see ALL the banding with these tests, but it's really only this one band that I notice in actual usage - I can see it pretty distinctly even in 20% grey tests. I also noticed some non-uniformity but only at 5% grey (a distinct black patch in the lower left, which I had actually noticed when watching some TV shows, but very rarely). I guess these things are just normal for OLED though right? A bit of a bummer but I guess it's the way it is. I really don't want to play panel lottery.
 
You can see here what I'm talking about. I actually think from looking at other pics online my panel is very good - other panels all seem to have much larger uniformity issues with big black patches on the left side at 5% grey. It's just that vertical band just left of center that stands out in actual use. I'm hoping it gets better over time.
edit: disclaimer, this is overexposed to show it better

IMG_1523.jpg
 
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hhkb said:
You can see here what I'm talking about. I actually think from looking at other pics online my panel is very good - other panels all seem to have much larger uniformity issues with big black patches on the left side at 5% grey. It's just that vertical band just left of center that stands out in actual use. I'm hoping it gets better over time.

View attachment 311254
Click to expand...
Have you run the pixel refresher manually yet? I think this is pretty normal and improves with time.
 
mirkendargen said:
Have you run the pixel refresher manually yet? I think this is pretty normal and improves with time.
Click to expand...
I have similar vertical bands, in my case if you divide screen to 3 vertical parts the middle one is the darkest and bots sides are brighter. I never noticed this in normal use.
 
Mine has definitely improved over time (and I’ve only had mine for about a month). Out of the box it had some very slight vertical banding. Now I can’t see any.
 
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Yeah they all have it to some extent afaik. I can actually see it in normal content too, if I want to. But in reality it's a non issue a still far better uniformity than any LCD I've ever seen.
 
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
 
peppergomez said:
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I believe the USB port is only for service
 
Porter_ said:
I believe the USB port is only for service
Click to expand...

OK, so can I not plug devices into the TV and have my computer recognized them? With the HP ZR30w I am replacing, there's a USB Type A port that I would plug a USB A to B cable in and into my computer, enabling Windows to recognize any devices I plug into the other USB slots in the monitor.

​

 
peppergomez said:
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
Click to expand...
HDMI doesn't carry data like that, and I've never heard of any TV's that act as a USB hub like that (this is why monitors have USB-B ports), and USB in general doesn't work bi-directionally like that. The good news is Xbox controllers have supported bluetooth natively for a few years now, so using them wirelessly with computers is way simpler now.

Also sad news, screen shift bug on Quickstart+ isn't fixed on the latest firmware after all. I caught it turning on when saying off today.
 
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You must have had that camera exposure set to something crazy to get a pic that bright on 5% grey. :)

That's probably pretty good looking when viewed in person. Run it for a couple months and get back to us. I would not try sending one of these screens back for that, even if it is a little annoying. It should become very hard to see and nearly vanish as you go to 10-15-20%.

Elvn, I know what you mean. When I look back and forth between my CX and my 47" VA LCD TV next to it, it's crazy how "not black" the VA panel is. And I keep it dialed WAY down for my dim office. You look back to the CX from it and it's like.... "oh, that's actually BLACK." The VA TV lives in a perpetual state of very uniform but very grey light bleed.
 
mirkendargen said:
HDMI doesn't carry data like that, and I've never heard of any TV's that act as a USB hub like that (this is why monitors have USB-B ports), and USB in general doesn't work bi-directionally like that. The good news is Xbox controllers have supported bluetooth natively for a few years now, so using them wirelessly with computers is way simpler now.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick reply. Are you saying that for playing games via Steam or Epic, the Xbox controller should be recognized and playable when plugged into the TV?
 
peppergomez said:
Thanks for the quick reply. Are you saying that for playing games via Steam or Epic, the Xbox controller should be recognized and playable when plugged into the TV?
Click to expand...
No I'm saying that will definitely not work, although you may be able to power the controller that way while using it wirelessly.

I'm saying Xbox (for the last few years) and Steam controllers support bluetooth, so all you need is a $5 bluetooth dongle if you computer doesn't already have it builtin.
 
Any of you with the CX with the new firmware update 21.09?

Any of you still have flickering issues with gsync on.

I play Control at 4k using 3090 and I get this flickering happening.. Thought it fixed it.

Turning off gsync works but it's not ideal.

Happens on any color profile in Nvidia Panel

Weather being RGB/Ycbcr444/limited/full..

Latest hotfix driver.

Thnx
 
This is my 5% gray at max brightness. It's caused me 0 issues up to this point in any content.

20201221_165049[4867].jpg
 
mirkendargen said:
No I'm saying that will definitely not work, although you may be able to power the controller that way while using it wirelessly.

I'm saying Xbox (for the last few years) and Steam controllers support bluetooth, so all you need is a $5 bluetooth dongle if you computer doesn't already have it builtin.
Click to expand...
I do have blutetooth on my laptop and have plugged in both the Xbox controller and the Steam controller to the TV. I have Bluetooth enabled in Windows>Bluetooth and other devices.

In the top right of the screen the TV keeps cycling between "HID device is connected" and "HID device is disconnected" messages. In the Windows Bluetooth, I see my mouse and keyboard, my audio (LG TV SSCR), four external drives, and the Generic PnP Monitor.
When I select Add a device>Everything else, Windows does not detect either the Xbox or SC. Any suggestions to getting them to be discoverable, as well as to have Windows recognize the LG 48cx as more than just "Generic PnP Monitor"?

Thanks.
 
peppergomez said:
I do have blutetooth on my laptop and have plugged in both the Xbox controller and the Steam controller to the TV. I have Bluetooth enabled in Windows>Bluetooth and other devices.

In the top right of the screen the TV keeps cycling between "HID device is connected" and "HID device is disconnected" messages. In the Windows Bluetooth, I see my mouse and keyboard, my audio (LG TV SSCR), four external drives, and the Generic PnP Monitor.
When I select Add a device>Everything else, Windows does not detect either the Xbox or SC. Any suggestions to getting them to be discoverable, as well as to have Windows recognize the LG 48cx as more than just "Generic PnP Monitor"?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
You need to pair the controllers to your laptop.
 
mirkendargen said:
Have you run the pixel refresher manually yet? I think this is pretty normal and improves with time.
Click to expand...

No I didn't run it yet - as it hurts the lifespan of the screen, and I read it can even cause other vertical banding to show up (the pixel refresh runs on these vertical bands itself, it's why they happen in the first place I think due to the initial factory pixel calibration operating in columns). It's not really noticeable except in a few scenes and it's just the single band. So I think I just accept it for now. It's still way better than any LCD screen I've had.

Advil said:
You must have had that camera exposure set to something crazy to get a pic that bright on 5% grey. :)

That's probably pretty good looking when viewed in person. Run it for a couple months and get back to us. I would not try sending one of these screens back for that, even if it is a little annoying. It should become very hard to see and nearly vanish as you go to 10-15-20%.

Elvn, I know what you mean. When I look back and forth between my CX and my 47" VA LCD TV next to it, it's crazy how "not black" the VA panel is. And I keep it dialed WAY down for my dim office. You look back to the CX from it and it's like.... "oh, that's actually BLACK." The VA TV lives in a perpetual state of very uniform but very grey light bleed.
Click to expand...

Oh it's definitely over exposed - long exposure on my iPhone in a dark room. It's the only way to get it noticeable in a picture. Of course the actual real life viewing is much more subtle.
 
You should probably put that as a disclaimer on the picture. (n)
 
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elvn said:
You should probably put that as a disclaimer on the picture. (n)
Click to expand...

It’s obvious though


Anyone here calibrate one of these? Doing some reading on avsforum, seems like the i1display pro with Calman Home for LG is a good solution? I’m not that happy with the gradient handling on my set, and hoping calibration can help. Grey and yellow gradients in particular are pretty bad on the Eizo monitor test. White balance shifts rather significantly depending on luminance in both. Certain greys look more blue or red, certain yellows look too green. Green is blown out with no change at all once it gets 5/6 of the way across the screen.

Thinking if I can fix that it might help with the posterization issue too.
 
These are WOLED so I don't think they will never be best at near or "near-est" blacks by default. That's probably why LG had to fw fix near blacks with two different work-arounds they've tried so far, using dithering or black-flattening of near blacks. That is what was being bypassed with VRR active before which showed the un-corrected (not worked-around anyway) near blacks again with odd results. Also not really able to calibrate WOLED accurately to bright levels (especially in HDR range) as the white(clear) oled subpixel pollutes the color space at higher brightness .. let alone taking ABSL and ABL into consideration overall, and tone mapping of mastered HDR video content for that matter.


https://liftgammagain.com/forum/index.php?threads/lg-woled-and-hdr-calibration.10797/
In the above 3D CIE graphs the LCD display shows a relatively good/acceptable level of underlying display volumetric capability, while the WOLED graph shows issues throughout, that become increasingly worse as display brightness increases.
Click to expand...

As can be seen, the LCD is 'ok', while not perfect, but the WOLED has major issues that are easily apparent, due to the inclusion of the 'white' pixel, as this distorts the standard RGB color channel relationship - excessively at HDR brightness levels. (if you sum the Y of 100% patch of R+G+B primaries you get 400nits while the same time if you display a 100% White patch you get 800nit...with WOLED's)

In very simple terms, what this means is the WOLED can never be calibrated for HDR... ...but calibrated with 3D LUT in SDR mode, the recommendation is up 105-110 nits, there will be to ABL limiting and displays are more stable overs the time.
Click to expand...

These are consumer media displays not $25,000 - $50,000 color mastering/video mastering reference displays so personally I'm not worried about it. My HDR movies and games look great on it. Per pixel contrast from ultra black and at up to ~800nit (at small % of screen space highlights) side by side, the ultra black depth overall even in SDR, along with good color saturation, response time, etc. trumps anything lcd does currently imo.
 
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Yep I hear you. I also don’t really care about accuracy at super high brightness levels, but I do care that it’s half decent at low brightness levels so I can use it for SDR photo editing (not professionally of course). I’ll take a picture of my gradients later so you get an idea how bad it is. Hopefully it will show up. Maybe I just need to use the display a bit more, I read that it breaks in with a hundred or two hours of use. I’m at about 50.
 
Has anyone here played Cemu Zelda: BOTW? I mean on the Nintendo Switch playing on OLED was amazing, but playing the game on PC takes up several notches, its fucking beautiful!!!!

Now I got a 3080 waiting to go in and its going to take it up another level. I hope... Prob not tho since the 1080ti was pretty up to snuff, even playing at the games 120fps (was getting 100fps) the game felt like it was sped up so 60fps setting was pretty good.

But yea, if any of ya'll get a chance to, check out the WiiU emulator called Cemu. Zelda Breath of the Wild is AMAZING on it. I cant wait to build my setup. Took me 8 months with deciding and waiting on a 48CX, release and availability of a 3080, etc.
 
Yes, fun on first play-through to some degree. And as great as the effort that went in to coding these up - Cemu, Dolphin, etc. and rendering WiiU/Wii titles at 4K/8K, with Vulkan and async compute, reshade mods is fairly old news.

Cemu Patreon builds were all the rage when BoTW first relesed a few years ago (since even back then, it ran and looked better on PC than native hardware). Made a bit of a come back with the prequel demo a few months back.

The 25+ year old emulation scene has started to move on from that gen hardware to new challenges.
 
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Can somebody tell me how's the experience @60Hz with Motion Pro at low/mid/high settings? Any headache, eye strain? I heard people complain that strobing is too noticeable at such refresh rates and it does not help much in terms of clarity.
 
All relative, hence the legalise CYA disclaimers seen at startup in many games. YMWV. Most on here have moved on from @60Hz use of these screens.

Linear 1080p or 4K tv signal duty with it turned on seems to work just fine. If it bothers you, turn it off and done.
 


Kinda weird they don't have any 48" listed for 2021. Could be coming later but if not welp all the ideas of waiting for a C1 oled to fix CX problems just went down the drain.
 
I have to say I am enjoying the CX 48. I was using a Alienware AW3418DW since Feb. of 2018. My GPU is a EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 Ultra and while it is not a 2.1 hdmi I may upgrade in the future. Mostly play fps games such as BF4 and The Division 2. The resolution is set to 3840 X 2169 under the PC header at 120Hz. No issues at all.
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