LG 48CX

Acording to HDTVtest you will get best result with playing it in SDR.



I am aware and that may be objectively true, but it still looks flat and lifeless in comparison to me. It’s worth trying to make it work in HDR. After the 1.05 patch the GeForce experience tricks are broken for me and destroy the picture, but with a combination of latest Korean firmware update on the TV, nvidia hotfix drivers, 1.05 patch, and TV brightness a couple clicks down to 48 it looks great.
 
I have to say I'm pretty impressed by everything I have run across about this.

I have one probably very stupid question. Here is an OLED (pretty new tech) great specs, etc. and at these kinds of sizes... how in the world is this 48 incher more or less the same price as my 27 inch Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ? Supply and demand?

Because they have been overcharging people for the luxury of a display port connection for the last few years which used to be the only way to get 120hz 4k or any VRR(g-sync/free-sync).

They had that 27" HDR FALD ips (13" tall for $2000) at least but then pushed some 43" 16:9 and other large size UW's without any local dimming at all ! and without real HDR.. yet still commanding $1500 - $2000 price tags.

I'm guessing another reason is because a lot of people are still stuck in the old "hide the pc up against the wall like a bookshelf" mindset so they still push out mostly 13" tall screens. Even most of the uw displays are 13" tall. The 38" uw are 14.4"h. the 48 CX is around 23.5"h.


For reference, ordered by height.. (roughly, based on raw sizes):
----------------------------------------------------------------

22.5" diagonal 16:10 .. 19.1" w x 11.9" h (1920x1200 ~ 100.6 ppi) FW900 crt

27.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 23.5" w x 13.2" h (2560x1440 ~ 108.79 ppi)
34.0" diagonal 21:9 .... 31.4" w x 13.1" h (3440x1440 ~ 109.68 ppi)

37.5" diagonal 21:10 .. 34.6" w x 14.4" h (3840x1600 ~ 110.93 ppi)

31.5" diagonal 16:9 .... 27.5" w x 15.4" h (2560x1440 ~ 93.24 ppi) .. (3840x2160 ~ 137.68ppi)

40.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 34.9"w x 19.6" h (3840x2160 ~ 110.15ppi)

43.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 37.5" w x 21.1" h (3840x2160 ~ 102.46 ppi)

48.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 41.8"w x 23.5" h (3840x2160 ~ 91.79 ppi)

55.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 47.9"w x 27.0"h (3840x2160 ~ 80.11 ppi)

----------------------------------------------------------------

* you also have to consider view distance in relation to the sizes and effective pixel density to your eyeballs obviously
 
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I have to say I'm pretty impressed by everything I have run across about this.

I have one probably very stupid question. Here is an OLED (pretty new tech) great specs, etc. and at these kinds of sizes... how in the world is this 48 incher more or less the same price as my 27 inch Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ? Supply and demand?
TL;DR, because they can.

If they charged say $3000 for a 48" OLED, they'd have to charge more for the 55"...and more for the 65"...and more for the 77". Suddenly no one is buying any of those for a TV because they're cool with Samsung's best for half the price.

But make it 27-32" and call it a monitor...you can charge $1500 because it isn't competing with anything.
 
TL;DR, because they can.

If they charged say $3000 for a 48" OLED, they'd have to charge more for the 55"...and more for the 65"...and more for the 77". Suddenly no one is buying any of those for a TV because they're cool with Samsung's best for half the price.

But make it 27-32" and call it a monitor...you can charge $1500 because it isn't competing with anything.
Makes sense. Just so no one misunderstands me: I'm pleasantly amazed at the prices of the OLEDs vs computer monitors like the one I have.
 
Because they have been overcharging people for the luxury of a display port connection for the last few years which used to be the only way to get 120hz 4k or any VRR(g-sync/free-sync).

They had that 27" HDR FALD ips (13" tall for $2000) at least but then pushed some 43" 16:9 and other large size UW's without any local dimming at all ! and without real HDR.. yet still commanding $1500 - $2000 price tags.

I'm guessing another reason is because a lot of people are still stuck in the old "hide the pc up against the wall like a bookshelf" mindset so they still push out mostly 13" tall screens. Even most of the uw displays are 13" tall. The 38" uw are 14.4"h. the 48 CX is around 23.5"h.


For reference, ordered by height.. (roughly, based on raw sizes):
----------------------------------------------------------------

22.5" diagonal 16:10 .. 19.1" w x 11.9" h (1920x1200 ~ 100.6 ppi) FW900 crt

27.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 23.5" w x 13.2" h (2560x1440 ~ 108.79 ppi)
34.0" diagonal 21:9 .... 31.4" w x 13.1" h (3440x1440 ~ 109.68 ppi)

37.5" diagonal 21:10 .. 34.6" w x 14.4" h (3840x1600 ~ 110.93 ppi)

31.5" diagonal 16:9 .... 27.5" w x 15.4" h (2560x1440 ~ 93.24 ppi) .. (3840x2160 ~ 137.68ppi)

40.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 34.9"w x 19.6" h (3840x2160 ~ 110.15ppi)

43.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 37.5" w x 21.1" h (3840x2160 ~ 102.46 ppi)

48.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 41.8"w x 23.5" h (3840x2160 ~ 91.79 ppi)

55.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 47.9"w x 27.0"h (3840x2160 ~ 80.11 ppi)

----------------------------------------------------------------

* you also have to consider view distance in relation to the sizes and effective pixel density to your eyeballs obviously
I dont think, the trend nowdays is to put 2 monitors on each other, so people are getting even taller combined screens than 48" TV.
For me it looks uber non practical.
Random example from reddit:
9u8zzlx3x8661.jpg
 
I don't mess or try to tweak HDR settings beyond a games built in peak brightness. I've learned that I can't trust my eyes and 90% of the time what I think looks "good" or accurate is way off and destroys PQ in some way.

If the games HDR implementation sucks I don't even bother with HDR.
 
Acording to HDTVtest you will get best result with playing it in SDR.


I'd be curious to see that on PC instead of PS5, because I'm not seeing what he's seeing (since fixed Nvidia drivers and 1.05)....although it's hard to tell what he's seeing since all we see is what his camera's seeing...
 
I'd be curious to see that on PC instead of PS5, because I'm not seeing what he's seeing (since fixed Nvidia drivers and 1.05)....although it's hard to tell what he's seeing since all we see is what his camera's seeing...

He does mention that some people are happy with the way it looks after tweaks so I would say it's now just a matter of personal preference. Obviously hardcore picture accuracy purists like himself would never settle for this HDR but there are plenty of people that would be plenty satisfied with it.
 
I dont think, the trend nowdays is to put 2 monitors on each other, so people are getting even taller combined screens than 48" TV.
For me it looks uber non practical.
Random example from reddit:
View attachment 310922

yeah I've seen those in /r monitors and battlestations, etc. I wouldn't say that's a typical setup yet for most buying 13" tall monitors nowadays, and the are still individually small enough to do the up against the wall like bookshelf setup/distance. You could put a bunch of tablets or laptops on a desk similarly and the setup would still be comprised of screens designed for nearer viewing.

I get that they like the bezel to keep their game fullscreen and still have separate usable space, but otherwise you are just building a giant 16:9 monitor with a bezel down the middle. heh.. I use several monitors though so I guess I can't throw stones much on the being practical topic. :p

.. I'd run 16:10 (3840x1600) letterboxed on the CX (to see more game world real-estate in HOR+ on certain games) .. or even try running a ~ 32.5" viewable 2560x1600 (~27.5w 16:10) framed all around (e.g. - if I needed the frame rate to try raytracing without losing 100Hz+ benefits) which is still a very substantially sized viewport - rather than buying a 13" tall ultrawide as my gaming screen..

---------------------------------------------------------

I would however consider putting a 43.4" uw above my 48" cx to fill the last gap between my side monitors someday. It would be curved but should fit at 41 3/4" out of the 42" wide gap. I'd probably move my chat aps and game support specific things up there, maybe some hardware monitoring. I can't justify the cost at the moment since they are $700 - $800 due to having gaming features in them... and besides I'm saving for a 3000 series gpu.

This is a pretty close representation of the default window configuration I've been using for my array now that the side 43" 4k's are in portrait mode:

gVtuQ87.png
 
I'd be curious to see that on PC instead of PS5, because I'm not seeing what he's seeing (since fixed Nvidia drivers and 1.05)....although it's hard to tell what he's seeing since all we see is what his camera's seeing...
The camera might not be perfect, but there's no world where those results are reversed when viewed with the naked eye. Those results are exactly what other reviewers are saying; and I'm sure Vincent wouldn't have used that video as his evidence unless what the camera saw is also what he saw
 
Anyone with the latest driver and rtx 3090 have this problem: computer always BSOD within 3-5 mins of first start and then it’s fine after restarting. And then when I shutdown, it always BSOD on the first boot and then no problem gaming for hours on the restart. I noticed this happening with the latest drivers....wtf.
 
Before you blame your cabling, which it could be, make sure you try driver 457.51 before doing a bunch of other stuff.

The 460.79 and 460.89 drivers are seriously broken in several ways, especially if you use VRR (initial flashing/corruption at startup until a restart) or HDR (just plain broken black levels).

Those two drivers will cause my cx48 when VRR is on on initial boot where my pc and monitors are all powering on at once, to freak out and flash constantly until I do another quick reboot of the PC then it's fine for the rest of the day. It seems like something to do with the handshake for VRR not happening properly.

457.51 doesn't have either of these problems for me.
Yes yes, this is exactly what I’m experiencing... always BSOD on startup and then it’s fine on restart. And I also noticed it after driver 460.xx
 
Anyone with the latest driver and rtx 3090 have this problem: computer always BSOD within 3-5 mins of first start and then it’s fine after restarting. And then when I shutdown, it always BSOD on the first boot and then no problem gaming for hours on the restart. I noticed this happening with the latest drivers....wtf.
No big issues here with FTW 3090..latest hot fix and new Korean firmware on my CX 48 Canadian model! Everything runs fine! My only issue is the power usage on idle.. Goes around 75-80w and peaks up to 140w..I swear 2 drivers ago it was hovering around 20w usage on idle..
Anyone else with this issue?
 
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No big issues here with FTW 3090..latest hot fix and new Korean firmware on my CX 48 Canadian model! Everything runs fine! My only issue is the power usage on idle.. Goes around 75-80w and peaks up to 140w..I swear 2 drivers ago it was hovering around 20w usage on idle..
Anyone else with this issue?
Is your card not clocking down from 3D clocks? Do you have more than one monitor connected above 60hz?
 
Seriously considering buying one of these for general gaming and iRacing. Currently running triple 32" dells but getting so sick of nvidia surround bugging out and causing all sorts of issues. I race in vr most of the time so this should be great for casual racing.

I will be mounting this to a racing simulator cockpit so I am thinking of going with the bigger 55" as I have some freedom to push it back a little bit. Is there any reason not to get the larger 55" model? It's kind of tough to buy the smaller model for the same price.
 
If you can sit far enough away or you are doing 3840x1600 uw rez on racing going for the sides as immersion I don't see any problem with 55". It would also make for larger movies/video vs letterboxed title's sizing. It could also make the screen more useful down the road in another room as a "tv" if upgrading from it later on pc. I was considering the 55" heavily especially when it was on sale for $1200 at bb over black friday/cybermonday. I am actually within the return period still if I change my mind I guess.

I'm pretty happy with the 48" size overall though. If I went 55" it would push my side portrait mode monitors farther away, likely making me have to sit back a little father and prob having to scale the side monitors up another 25% so this is probably a better size.

854lCi4.png
 
Because they have been overcharging people for the luxury of a display port connection for the last few years which used to be the only way to get 120hz 4k or any VRR(g-sync/free-sync).

They had that 27" HDR FALD ips (13" tall for $2000) at least but then pushed some 43" 16:9 and other large size UW's without any local dimming at all ! and without real HDR.. yet still commanding $1500 - $2000 price tags.

I'm guessing another reason is because a lot of people are still stuck in the old "hide the pc up against the wall like a bookshelf" mindset so they still push out mostly 13" tall screens. Even most of the uw displays are 13" tall. The 38" uw are 14.4"h. the 48 CX is around 23.5"h.


For reference, ordered by height.. (roughly, based on raw sizes):
----------------------------------------------------------------

22.5" diagonal 16:10 .. 19.1" w x 11.9" h (1920x1200 ~ 100.6 ppi) FW900 crt

27.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 23.5" w x 13.2" h (2560x1440 ~ 108.79 ppi)
34.0" diagonal 21:9 .... 31.4" w x 13.1" h (3440x1440 ~ 109.68 ppi)

37.5" diagonal 21:10 .. 34.6" w x 14.4" h (3840x1600 ~ 110.93 ppi)

31.5" diagonal 16:9 .... 27.5" w x 15.4" h (2560x1440 ~ 93.24 ppi) .. (3840x2160 ~ 137.68ppi)

40.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 34.9"w x 19.6" h (3840x2160 ~ 110.15ppi)

43.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 37.5" w x 21.1" h (3840x2160 ~ 102.46 ppi)

48.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 41.8"w x 23.5" h (3840x2160 ~ 91.79 ppi)

55.0" diagonal 16:9 .... 47.9"w x 27.0"h (3840x2160 ~ 80.11 ppi)

----------------------------------------------------------------

* you also have to consider view distance in relation to the sizes and effective pixel density to your eyeballs obviously
Height is not what people want or should want. Height is the enemy of a monitor. For ergonomic reasons a screen should actually sit so that its height is condinated witht he height of your eyes. Its not good if you need to look up. This is also my main battle witht he LG CX as a monitor. If I could cut that top part off so it was a 21:9 display with 3840x1600 instad and make the sides curve. This would be an awesome display. That fact that it is so wide without curve is a bit of a compromise. The same with the height. The width is not that big of a problem thou. Its the height. If I stretch my back and sit "correctly" My eyes are only about 2/3 up on the display height. That is not good. As most of the time my body will fall into it self and I will be sitting 1/2 of the height and thus need to look up a lot. Its not good for the neck and will possibly give headaches and backaches.

Sure I can just use the lower part. And that is infact what I am doing with FancyZones in PowerToys. But its not ideal.

Thats why I am looking heavily at LGs 38" ultrawide lineup. 3840x1600, 120-175hz, 98% P3 gamut, IPS etc. Its the cloest thing to a perfect monitor one could get. Just one problem. It still uses backlight etc because its a LCD. And I dont think I can ever go back to that. And ya.. They are also more expensive than 48-55" OLED. So.. ya.

But I still feel this 48" CX is a compromise because its not a computer monitor. Its a TV. So things like needing to shut it off. No Adobe RGB/ sRGB / P3 profile. The height, reflective as hell etc.. And that god aweful stand that take so much space and makes us sit so close to it. Still.. That picture quality.. Damn. I can never go back.
 
Anyone with the latest driver and rtx 3090 have this problem: computer always BSOD within 3-5 mins of first start and then it’s fine after restarting. And then when I shutdown, it always BSOD on the first boot and then no problem gaming for hours on the restart. I noticed this happening with the latest drivers....wtf.
Did you try a 460.97 hotfix driver ?
 
Height is not what people want or should want. Height is the enemy of a monitor. For ergonomic reasons a screen should actually sit so that its height is condinated witht he height of your eyes. Its not good if you need to look up. This is also my main battle witht he LG CX as a monitor. If I could cut that top part off so it was a 21:9 display with 3840x1600 instad and make the sides curve. This would be an awesome display. That fact that it is so wide without curve is a bit of a compromise. The same with the height. The width is not that big of a problem thou. Its the height. If I stretch my back and sit "correctly" My eyes are only about 2/3 up on the display height. That is not good. As most of the time my body will fall into it self and I will be sitting 1/2 of the height and thus need to look up a lot. Its not good for the neck and will possibly give headaches and backaches.

Sure I can just use the lower part. And that is infact what I am doing with FancyZones in PowerToys. But its not ideal.

Thats why I am looking heavily at LGs 38" ultrawide lineup. 3840x1600, 120-175hz, 98% P3 gamut, IPS etc. Its the cloest thing to a perfect monitor one could get. Just one problem. It still uses backlight etc because its a LCD. And I dont think I can ever go back to that. And ya.. They are also more expensive than 48-55" OLED. So.. ya.

But I still feel this 48" CX is a compromise because its not a computer monitor. Its a TV. So things like needing to shut it off. No Adobe RGB/ sRGB / P3 profile. The height, reflective as hell etc.. And that god aweful stand that take so much space and makes us sit so close to it. Still.. That picture quality.. Damn. I can never go back.

I have a few recommendations for you to consider which work for me:

--a separate, height adjustable desk for your peripherals. Mine is sort of crescent/xbox controller shaped so has elbow arm space on it on the sides. I set it tall enough to overlap the desk my monitors are on
--a TV mount that allows you to set the TV at the peripheral desk height or lower. Mine is probably an inch below my peripheral desk (since I raised the peripheral desk's height slightly), but the tv is still in line with it more or less. Losing that last 1+ inch the stand has helps, especially over distance.
--a fully adjustable and with full support chair.
.....that means arms that go outward/inward and up down. Not just tilting "V" ing out. Adjust the arms in line with the peripheral desk (or just below it since my desk overlaps where my elbows are).
.... full head and neck support. Very important.
.....good height and the ability to tilt the entire chair part, not just leaning the back.

--Don't sit too close. The farther away you are, the lower your slope to the top of the screen. THX sweet spot is 45 to 50 deg viewing angle (width).
--replace the mini plastic caster wheels that come on most chairs (and my rolling desk) with 3rd party oversized "rollerblade style" wheels. This gives extra height and they are way better besides.
--Add memory foam backing, headrest, and seat (butt) cushions. They are designed for cars but work great for desk chairs. The butt cushion adds more height.
--add memory foam arm rests made for chairs (this works well with the extra height the thick memory foam seat cushion gives).
--add another cylinder shaped memory foam driving/flying cushion under the headrest cushion/gap between the headrest cushion and chair back cushion if necessary to keep your head and neck fully supported and in line.
-- consider purchasing a foot rest. (My rolling desk actually has a full wooden bottom plane built into it so is already good on that facet).
--Tilt your chair back just slightly to "sniffing position" if necessary. I do this because my side monitors are so tall in portrait in their top 1/3. I wouldn't need to for the 48" CX by itself.

At ~ 44" away or so, sitting straight upright, I'm looking at the top 1/3 band of the screen.
When I lean a hair into "sniffing position", I'm looking at the top 1/4 band of the screen.
If I lean my chair back a little more like a recliner with a controller playing a game, I can get back to 3/4 of the way up band.

You'd be surprised at how much your direct "invisible dotted line" of sight from your eyeballs changes with a few modifications. If I have the screen off with the room lit so I can see my reflection dimly in the daytime, holding my hand sideways over my head (as if shielding from the sun) reaches the top bezel of the screen in my reflection.

I do have to glance up at the tops of my side screens but it's an easy glance considering my head support and viewing angle. I do prioritize the most viewed things (using displayfusion for window and app placements combined with a stream decks' buttons) to be in the bottom 3/4 of the much taller 43" screens in portrait but I don't have to do that at all for the 48" CX. In fact I'd consider putting a 43.4" uw above the 48 CX someday considering how well this works for me. I could easily have went with a 55" CX with this setup and sat a little farther away but it would push my side monitors farther away and would probably require bumping the scaling of the side screens by +25% at that point. It would also have broken my rolling desk away from the one my monitors are on now with a gap.
 
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Yeah the latest drivers are shiet (460.89). Had my first ever game freeze on Doom Eternal right after updating to them, and I've been playing with 0 problems for last 2 months since I got my 3080. I might roll back if it keeps happening.
 
I have a few recommendations for you to consider which work for me:

--a separate, height adjustable desk for your peripherals. Mine is sort of crescent/xbox controller shaped so has elbow arm space on it on the sides. I set it tall enough to overlap the desk my monitors are on
--a TV mount that allows you to set the TV at the peripheral desk height or lower. Mine is probably an inch below my peripheral desk (since I raised the peripheral desk's height slightly), but the tv is still in line with it more or less. Losing that last 1+ inch the stand has helps, especially over distance.
--a fully adjustable and with full support chair.
.....that means arms that go outward/inward and up down. Not just tilting "V" ing out. Adjust the arms in line with the peripheral desk (or just below it since my desk overlaps where my elbows are).
.... full head and neck support. Very important.
.....good height and the ability to tilt the entire chair part, not just leaning the back.

--Don't sit too close. The farther away you are, the lower your slope to the top of the screen. THX sweet spot is 45 to 50 deg viewing angle (width).
--replace the mini plastic caster wheels that come on most chairs (and my rolling desk) with 3rd party oversized "rollerblade style" wheels. This gives extra height and they are way better besides.
--Add memory foam backing, headrest, and seat (butt) cushions. They are designed for cars but work great for desk chairs. The butt cushion adds more height.
--add memory foam arm rests made for chairs (this works well with the extra height the thick memory foam seat cushion gives).
--add another cylinder shaped memory foam driving/flying cushion under the headrest cushion/gap between the headrest cushion and chair back cushion if necessary to keep your head and neck fully supported and in line.
-- consider purchasing a foot rest. (My rolling desk actually has a full wooden bottom plane built into it so is already good on that facet).
--Tilt your chair back just slightly to "sniffing position" if necessary. I do this because my side monitors are so tall in portrait in their top 1/3. I wouldn't need to for the 48" CX by itself.

At ~ 46" away, sitting straight upright, I'm looking at the top 1/3 band of the screen.
When I lean a hair into "sniffing position", I'm looking at the top 1/4 band of the screen.
If I lean my chair back a little more like a recliner with a controller playing a game, I can get back to 3/4 of the way up band.

You'd be surprised at how much your direct "invisible dotted line" of sight from your eyeballs changes with a few modifications. If I have the screen off with the room lit so I can see my reflection dimly in the daytime, holding my hand sideways over my head (as if shielding from the sun) reaches the top bezel of the screen in my reflection.

I do have to glance up at the tops of my side screens but it's an easy glance considering my head support and viewing angle. I do prioritize the most viewed things (using displayfusion for window and app placements combined with a stream decks' buttons) to be in the bottom 3/4 of the much taller 43" screens in portrait but I don't have to do that at all for the 48" CX. In fact I'd consider putting a 43.4" uw above the 48 CX someday considering how well this works for me. I could easily have went with a 55" CX with this setup and sat a little farther away but it would push my side monitors farther away and would probably require bumping the scaling of the side screens by +25% at that point. It would also have broken my rolling desk away from the one my monitors are on now with a gap.
I am not sure I totally understand that setup as I am more of a visual type. But it sounds great. Especially the lower mounted CX. It would help a lot. Thou it cannot be mounted to low as if the angle is too great on this screen the color changes. But I guess that can also be helped sitting further away.

I am on a height adjustable table and as such I need it to be adjustable with the table I am sitting with. So I cannot wall mount it, nor mount it lower on a seperate table (well I could, but I would need to shell out a lot more money. My biggest enemy is I am sitting rather close. I am getting the Ergotron HX in 2021 and hope it can help. I have a rather fine chair where my seating position is as it should be with 90 degree andgles on elboys, hip and knees.

I see you are sitting 46" away (roughly 120cm). That is a lot. So I can understand you have a much better angle. I dont find that distane feasable for a lot of people. I could at best sit 35" (~90cm) away. Gaming wise there is also some sick immersion going on sitting closer. It cover a lot of the peripheral vision. Especially sitting in a dark room. Thats why I run my screen either 3840x1440, 3840x1600 or 3840x2160 depending on the game. For productivity it is another matter. I am sitting about 25" (65cm) away right now and it is too close. So looking for a way to table mount it per the height adjustable matter (probably Ergotron HX).
 
So 2 months of CX usage, the one thing I've picked up on is there is a noticeable vertical band just left of center on my screen. I didn't go looking for it, but it shows up in some games with lots of greys / dark greys. I've probably only noticed it a few times, but obviously now that I saw it I notice it more often. I finally ran one of those grey banding tests on youtube and good god - I don't recommend running this if you are a perfectionist. Obviously I can see ALL the banding with these tests, but it's really only this one band that I notice in actual usage - I can see it pretty distinctly even in 20% grey tests. I also noticed some non-uniformity but only at 5% grey (a distinct black patch in the lower left, which I had actually noticed when watching some TV shows, but very rarely). I guess these things are just normal for OLED though right? A bit of a bummer but I guess it's the way it is. I really don't want to play panel lottery.
 
You can see here what I'm talking about. I actually think from looking at other pics online my panel is very good - other panels all seem to have much larger uniformity issues with big black patches on the left side at 5% grey. It's just that vertical band just left of center that stands out in actual use. I'm hoping it gets better over time.
edit: disclaimer, this is overexposed to show it better

IMG_1523.jpg
 
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You can see here what I'm talking about. I actually think from looking at other pics online my panel is very good - other panels all seem to have much larger uniformity issues with big black patches on the left side at 5% grey. It's just that vertical band just left of center that stands out in actual use. I'm hoping it gets better over time.

View attachment 311254
Have you run the pixel refresher manually yet? I think this is pretty normal and improves with time.
 
Have you run the pixel refresher manually yet? I think this is pretty normal and improves with time.
I have similar vertical bands, in my case if you divide screen to 3 vertical parts the middle one is the darkest and bots sides are brighter. I never noticed this in normal use.
 
Mine has definitely improved over time (and I’ve only had mine for about a month). Out of the box it had some very slight vertical banding. Now I can’t see any.
 
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Yeah they all have it to some extent afaik. I can actually see it in normal content too, if I want to. But in reality it's a non issue a still far better uniformity than any LCD I've ever seen.
 
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
 
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
I believe the USB port is only for service
 
I believe the USB port is only for service

OK, so can I not plug devices into the TV and have my computer recognized them? With the HP ZR30w I am replacing, there's a USB Type A port that I would plug a USB A to B cable in and into my computer, enabling Windows to recognize any devices I plug into the other USB slots in the monitor.

 
Hey all, just got this today and setting it up, and have a quick question not covered in the manual - I hooked up an external hard drive to the TV's USB and the TV recognized it but my computer/Windows did not. Assuming that the HDMI cable only transfers the picture info then, and not data. Do I need a USB to USB cable (same USB on each end) in order to connect the TV to my computer via USB cable so that the TV can function as a USB hub with its remaining USB ports? I plan to plug in my Steam Controller and Xbox Windows controller into the remaining USB ports on the TV. Thanks.
HDMI doesn't carry data like that, and I've never heard of any TV's that act as a USB hub like that (this is why monitors have USB-B ports), and USB in general doesn't work bi-directionally like that. The good news is Xbox controllers have supported bluetooth natively for a few years now, so using them wirelessly with computers is way simpler now.

Also sad news, screen shift bug on Quickstart+ isn't fixed on the latest firmware after all. I caught it turning on when saying off today.
 
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You must have had that camera exposure set to something crazy to get a pic that bright on 5% grey. :)

That's probably pretty good looking when viewed in person. Run it for a couple months and get back to us. I would not try sending one of these screens back for that, even if it is a little annoying. It should become very hard to see and nearly vanish as you go to 10-15-20%.

Elvn, I know what you mean. When I look back and forth between my CX and my 47" VA LCD TV next to it, it's crazy how "not black" the VA panel is. And I keep it dialed WAY down for my dim office. You look back to the CX from it and it's like.... "oh, that's actually BLACK." The VA TV lives in a perpetual state of very uniform but very grey light bleed.
 
HDMI doesn't carry data like that, and I've never heard of any TV's that act as a USB hub like that (this is why monitors have USB-B ports), and USB in general doesn't work bi-directionally like that. The good news is Xbox controllers have supported bluetooth natively for a few years now, so using them wirelessly with computers is way simpler now.
Thanks for the quick reply. Are you saying that for playing games via Steam or Epic, the Xbox controller should be recognized and playable when plugged into the TV?
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Are you saying that for playing games via Steam or Epic, the Xbox controller should be recognized and playable when plugged into the TV?
No I'm saying that will definitely not work, although you may be able to power the controller that way while using it wirelessly.

I'm saying Xbox (for the last few years) and Steam controllers support bluetooth, so all you need is a $5 bluetooth dongle if you computer doesn't already have it builtin.
 
Any of you with the CX with the new firmware update 21.09?

Any of you still have flickering issues with gsync on.

I play Control at 4k using 3090 and I get this flickering happening.. Thought it fixed it.

Turning off gsync works but it's not ideal.

Happens on any color profile in Nvidia Panel

Weather being RGB/Ycbcr444/limited/full..

Latest hotfix driver.

Thnx
 
This is my 5% gray at max brightness. It's caused me 0 issues up to this point in any content.

20201221_165049[4867].jpg
 
No I'm saying that will definitely not work, although you may be able to power the controller that way while using it wirelessly.

I'm saying Xbox (for the last few years) and Steam controllers support bluetooth, so all you need is a $5 bluetooth dongle if you computer doesn't already have it builtin.
I do have blutetooth on my laptop and have plugged in both the Xbox controller and the Steam controller to the TV. I have Bluetooth enabled in Windows>Bluetooth and other devices.

In the top right of the screen the TV keeps cycling between "HID device is connected" and "HID device is disconnected" messages. In the Windows Bluetooth, I see my mouse and keyboard, my audio (LG TV SSCR), four external drives, and the Generic PnP Monitor.
When I select Add a device>Everything else, Windows does not detect either the Xbox or SC. Any suggestions to getting them to be discoverable, as well as to have Windows recognize the LG 48cx as more than just "Generic PnP Monitor"?

Thanks.
 
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