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LG 48CX

I saw this cable suggested a few pages back:
Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZ8V78S?m=A7EB2YHL3E081&ref=mpc_asin_title

Do folks recommend this one? I would prob buy the 6.5ft one.

Also, there are so many pages in this thread-- has anyone collected the most helpful info about this monitor and put it onto a single page or post?

Thanks!
 
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So the EDID thing works, I can indeed see configure 12bpc. But.... I see a lot more of those errors in the channel tuning-111111 menu (1-3/sec) and I'm seeing what I think are some link negotiation issues semi-frequently on reboot. Maybe it's my cable that can't handle it well, or maybe it's the TV. Tough to tell for sure. I had the same behavior with 2 cables, but they were both the same model/length.
 
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Just a FYI. One of the FB computer groups I belong to people are reporting 3080s and 3090s are starting to become more available at their local Microcenter stores. They only get about 40-50 or so cards delivered at a time but MC seems to be getting deliveries more often so if you have a MC store near you may want to keep an eye out for them if you are trying to snag a 3xxx GPU.
 
Is it common for magic remote to squeak/creak if you touch/push on different parts of plastic battery cover. Any way to fix this ?
 
Anyone get a flicker/artifacting where the monitor will pop on and off?

Seems like a reboot does not fix it but turning off all the way and back on does.

Using a MSI 3080 Trio and a 6' Zeskit cable.
 
Skott said:
Just a FYI. One of the FB computer groups I belong to people are reporting 3080s and 3090s are starting to become more available at their local Microcenter stores. They only get about 40-50 or so cards delivered at a time but MC seems to be getting deliveries more often so if you have a MC store near you may want to keep an eye out for them if you are trying to snag a 3xxx GPU.
Click to expand...
My Microcenter has crazy lines camped out each morning still it is crazy.

I tried a few times with no luck, so ended up buying a sealed 3080 MSI trio for about 150 bucks over retail.
 
Monstieur said:
Press 11111 while "Channel Tuning" is highlighted. Then select the "HDMI Mode" label to view more detailed information.
There seems to a bug where it reports YCbCr422 10-bit / 12-bit as 8-bit all the time, because I don't see 8-bit banding. This happens even when directly connected to the GPU, so it's likely a bug.
Click to expand...
Just got my CX and thanks to this message i finally understood that my CX was displaying HDR even if it was stating 8bit...
Is there any way to know when there is a 10/12bit source from the hidden menu for 24hz?

how come the CX can display the correct info,12bit for the PS5 but not my shield!?
 
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Skott said:
Just a FYI. One of the FB computer groups I belong to people are reporting 3080s and 3090s are starting to become more available at their local Microcenter stores. They only get about 40-50 or so cards delivered at a time but MC seems to be getting deliveries more often so if you have a MC store near you may want to keep an eye out for them if you are trying to snag a 3xxx GPU.
Click to expand...

Just checked at my local MC and there is 1 3080 that is for sale, probably a line at it to buy it.
 
Ashenor said:
Anyone get a flicker/artifacting where the monitor will pop on and off?

Seems like a reboot does not fix it but turning off all the way and back on does.

Using a MSI 3080 Trio and a 6' Zeskit cable.
Click to expand...
When you have issue you should check hdmi diagnostic menu (Press 11111 while "Channel Tuning" is highlighted. Then select the "HDMI Mode" label) and check if error count is increasing rapidly. But I think 6' zeskit should be good. Do you have proper resolution selected (4096x2160 is wrong you should have 3840x2160). When issue apear you could try to lower resolution to 1080p if it doesn fix issue I think this could be Faulty GPU or driver related issue.
 
Before you blame your cabling, which it could be, make sure you try driver 457.51 before doing a bunch of other stuff.

The 460.79 and 460.89 drivers are seriously broken in several ways, especially if you use VRR (initial flashing/corruption at startup until a restart) or HDR (just plain broken black levels).

Those two drivers will cause my cx48 when VRR is on on initial boot where my pc and monitors are all powering on at once, to freak out and flash constantly until I do another quick reboot of the PC then it's fine for the rest of the day. It seems like something to do with the handshake for VRR not happening properly.

457.51 doesn't have either of these problems for me.
 
Ashenor said:
Anyone get a flicker/artifacting where the monitor will pop on and off?

Seems like a reboot does not fix it but turning off all the way and back on does.

Using a MSI 3080 Trio and a 6' Zeskit cable.
Click to expand...
I've had zero issues from day 1 with my cheap 10 ft BIFALE cable. Just keep swapping cables till the signal is steady. I don't think anyone makes a consistently reliable cable yet.
 
Advil said:
Before you blame your cabling, which it could be, make sure you try driver 457.51 before doing a bunch of other stuff.

The 460.79 and 460.89 drivers are seriously broken in several ways, especially if you use VRR (initial flashing/corruption at startup until a restart) or HDR (just plain broken black levels).

Those two drivers will cause my cx48 when VRR is on on initial boot where my pc and monitors are all powering on at once, to freak out and flash constantly until I do another quick reboot of the PC then it's fine for the rest of the day. It seems like something to do with the handshake for VRR not happening properly.

457.51 doesn't have either of these problems for me.
Click to expand...
Ya i just came home, turned the TV back on and it was doing it.

Shut down and restarted and its fine again.
 
Ashenor said:
Anyone get a flicker/artifacting where the monitor will pop on and off?

Seems like a reboot does not fix it but turning off all the way and back on does.

Using a MSI 3080 Trio and a 6' Zeskit cable.
Click to expand...
Make sure you have the input set to PC on the TV.
 
Ashenor said:
Anyone see this remote listed for sale anywhere?
Click to expand...

There are probably a bunch of 3rd party remotes or the better logitech ones that you could use. You can also use a smartphone (or tablet I think). I keep my phone on a stand at my desk when I'm at the pc for awhile but I have to wake it up to access it of course. It's an oled phone so I wouldn't want the screen to stay on with keep alive apps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QY6RFQ/

Other than switching the user modes between my tweaked default setting for (HDR) movies and my named game setting for gaming I'm not futzing with the remote much other than turning the tv on and off. If I could use one big desktop hardware button or streamdeck button, etc.. just to swap between user modes I'd be pretty happy once things were dialed in.
 
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Perscitus said:
Looks like 3.21.09 has dropped on the Korean LG site.... works on non EU 48/55/65CXs etc.
Click to expand...
Just installed it, checking if good ol' Quickstart+ works yet without forcing on screen shift.

48Gbps still isn't being offered in the stock EDID after updating, but I tested importing the EDID in CRU and I'm getting WAY less errors on the connection now. Could be coincidence of me checking this time, dunno. Maybe they're making improvements with the goal of enabling it stock.

I turned the TV off and on a bunch of times and screen shift never turned on, I think Quickstart+ is actually fixed.
 
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mirkendargen said:
I turned the TV off and on a bunch of times and screen shift never turned on, I think Quickstart+ is actually fixed.
Click to expand...

Did you check this visually as in no side of the screen getting cut off vs just checking if the option in the menu is disabled? Because the option state did not match the function getting turned back on. It would be nice if it was fixed, finally.
 
kasakka said:
Did you check this visually as in no side of the screen getting cut off vs just checking if the option in the menu is disabled? Because the option state did not match the function getting turned back on. It would be nice if it was fixed, finally.
Click to expand...
I checked it by toggling screenshift on and seeing that there was a change. Previously when it was broken it would show off, but you would turn it on and nothing would happen, then when you turned it back off you'd see a change.
 
I'm planning to use the LG CX 48 + 27" 144Hz IPS monitor on the same GPU (GTX 1080 atm, 3080 in the future). Does anyone know if this will reduce fps? If it does, how much in general? Thanks.
 
MrTX said:
I'm planning to use the LG CX 48 + 27" 144Hz IPS monitor on the same GPU (GTX 1080 atm, 3080 in the future). Does anyone know if this will reduce fps? If it does, how much in general? Thanks.
Click to expand...
I don't think it should. I run the CX48 with 2 4k monitors works fine I don't see any really FPS drop compared to benchmarks.
 
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MrTX said:
I'm planning to use the LG CX 48 + 27" 144Hz IPS monitor on the same GPU (GTX 1080 atm, 3080 in the future). Does anyone know if this will reduce fps? If it does, how much in general? Thanks.
Click to expand...
I have a 144hz 1440p Gsync monitor and a 60hz 1080p monitor connected in addition to the TV. I don't get any difference in benchmarks with them connected or disconnected...but if I have the 1440p monitor at 120hz my 3090 never clocks down from 3d clocks and is about 50w more power at idle.
 
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MrTX said:
I'm planning to use the LG CX 48 + 27" 144Hz IPS monitor on the same GPU (GTX 1080 atm, 3080 in the future). Does anyone know if this will reduce fps? If it does, how much in general? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Typically it doesn't, but it depends what you're doing on the other screen. If you're watching videos or something while playing a game it might. If you just have a web browser showing a static page or discord or something like that it doesn't matter in my experience
 
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Didn't someone create a wiki that collects all the best advice on configuring/using this TV? I thought I recall reading that way way back in this thread. It would be super to have a link if anyone knows of this. This thread is way too long to easily extract the best advice from.
 
sharknice said:
Typically it doesn't, but it depends what you're doing on the other screen. If you're watching videos or something while playing a game it might. If you just have a web browser showing a static page or discord or something like that it doesn't matter in my experience
Click to expand...
Thanks everyone. Yeah, I'm just gonna use it for Discord, sticky notes, hwinfo, and other static info.

---------

Some guy on reddit said the new fw 03.21.09 fixes the raised blacks/flickering greys on HDR/Dolby Vision and VRR raised black/flicker issues! Anyone can confirm?
 
peppergomez said:
Didn't someone create a wiki that collects all the best advice on configuring/using this TV? I thought I recall reading that way way back in this thread. It would be super to have a link if anyone knows of this. This thread is way too long to easily extract the best advice from.
Click to expand...
This is what I use.
 
MrTX said:
I'm planning to use the LG CX 48 + 27" 144Hz IPS monitor on the same GPU (GTX 1080 atm, 3080 in the future). Does anyone know if this will reduce fps? If it does, how much in general? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I run a 43" 4k screen on either side . Running 1080ti sc hybrids in sli until I can get the 3090 I want , hopefully sometime in Q1 2021..

Everything runs fine but if running a lot of video streams at the same time you could run into some slowdowns or hitches rarely. Since I have a lot of cores on my cpu I can opt to switch to software mode rendering on some video apps or browsers if necessary though.

Overall no issues horsepower wise.

The big issue I have with multiple monitors is when running HDR content and paging to a different monitor for active usage it's a mess.
... When switching to being active on a different screen with a HDR movie running fullscreen in HDR mode on the LG CX, the CX will blink out of HDR mode and back again, with the HDR overlay flag popping up and usually blinking the other screen(s). It settles right back to active HDR mode for the video playing once you click on the other monitor/desktop. However if you want to scrub the time slider it flips active HDR off and back on all over again. This happens even when just mousing over the time slider.
....When switching out of a fullscreen mode HDR game like Jedi:Fallen Order, you have to ALT-TAB out which is even more clunky and blinky/blank-ing and takes several seconds.

Since I want to be able to multi-task I've started setting up my laptop on the side with a logitech htpc keyboard on my keyboard tray. I'm probably going put my 32" 1440p monitor in portrait above the laptop on the side of my desk for more space.

I can deal with the brief flutter blanking when paging off of HDR videos that are playing (though it is ugly and annoying) - but for gaming there's no way that side monitors are usable for me actively like this. I do have all three screens in HDR mode in windows. However HDR only activates when active HDR content is being shown so I'd have to be running something HDR on other other screens constantly or something idk. heh.. I'll just use the laptop and my now "spare" monitor while dug into a game I guess.

Some examples of the laptop side usage
- I have "yourphone" app on my laptop which is nice for sms group texts with the family as the holiday approaches, with a much larger screen for images than my phone has, and being able to reply without waking up the phone and fingerpainting a reply.
- Looking up stuff about a game or config on browsers
- chat apps, discord, etc
- forums like this one
- referencing stuff for replies on any of the communication apps
- email and other updates
-generally being unbound from the fullscreen game
 
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GeForce Hotfix Driver Version 460.97 is out​

The hotfix addresses the following issues:
...
With HDR enabled, black levels are incorrect. [200682795]
Anybody already tested if its realy fixed ?
 
Just a heads up, the hotfix blanks the screen(s) for a long time, at least a minute or two in my case,then flashes the screens like a typical driver install. I was concerned when all three monitors were stuck on no signal for awhile but I let it run it's course and it worked fine.
 
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