Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

NCX said:
ToastyX went into detail about the default colour on his Catleap

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/...ian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1240#post_16638968
Was about to post that here.

Measurements and color information for the catleap:

The brightness ranges from 25 cd/m² to 315 cd/m². There are 30 levels of brightness, and each button press averages around 10 cd/m².

Native contrast is around 1025:1 in the middle of the screen. Calibration will bring that down to around 875:1 or higher, depending on the white point.

Native gamma is actually pretty close to 2.2 out of the box.

The native white point is too green, and the brightest white has a different hue from the rest of the grayscale. This is not unusual for LG IPS panels, but most IPS monitors with color controls have the default contrast set one or two notches below the brightest white to avoid this. Since this monitor has no color controls, it just shows the panel's native output. In my experience, the white point being too green is also common with LG IPS panels, but this can vary from panel to panel. These are the main reasons why it looks "off" to me out of the box. With calibration, it looks great.

Several points I should add, colorimeters are not totally accurate with white point measurements, and measurements can drift with age, so results can vary from unit to unit and between different colorimeters. The results can also vary on different parts of the screen since most monitors are not perfectly uniform. My particular panel is slightly redder at the top edge and slightly yellower at the bottom edge, but most of the middle is consistent. Colorimeters also need different filters for different backlights (especially for wider gamuts), so that also affects accuracy. This monitor's gamut is close to sRGB, so that's not a major problem.

I have three colorimeters:

Retail Eye-One Display 2 (oldest)
SpectraView-branded Eye-One Display 2
ColorEyes-branded XRite DTP94B

The SpectraView Eye-One Display 2 was unusable on this monitor. I don't know if this colorimeter is failing or if it just has different filters for wider gamut monitors, but it wanted to add way too much red.

The retail Eye-One Display 2 and the DTP94B were pretty close to each other. Both removed a lot of green along with some red, with the DTP94 leaving slightly more green. I always preferred the Eye-One Display 2 over the DTP94B because the DTP94B always left a little more green than I liked. The retail Eye-One's result looks more natural to me, but I have no way of knowing for sure which one is more accurate without a spectrophotometer.

Another problem I should mention is the Eye-One Display 2's brightness measurement drifts downwards when it gets warmer. The DTP94B doesn't have that problem, so I did the brightness measurements with the DTP94B. Black point measurements are also hard for colorimeters, so it's hard to get exact contrast values. The DTP94 only reports to two decimal places.

I don't usually like to post color profiles since colors can vary from unit to unit, but since this monitor benefits greatly from white point calibration and the gamma doesn't change much, I will include three profiles here (all gamma 2.2):

catleap-6500k.icm - This is the one produced by the retail Eye-One Display 2. Contrast is around 875:1.
catleap-d65.icm - This is the one produced by the DTP94. This one has slightly more green. Contrast is around 900:1.

*** Edit: I just noticed the Eye-One's profile makes blues purplish in color-managed programs, so the DTP94 (D65) profile is probably the better one to use. ***

To get 115-120 cd/m² with those profiles, use 10 button presses up from the lowest brightness.

catleap-native.icm - This one keeps the native white point while adjusting the rest of the grayscale to match. Since the white point can vary from unit to unit, use this if the other two profiles look strange to you. This one preserves the native contrast ratio.

To get 115 cd/m² with this profile, use 8 button presses up from the lowest brightness.

I also need to write up how to load these profiles. ATI/AMD GPUs are capable of displaying 8-bit color from a 10-bit LUT with dithering just like professional LCD monitors do, which allows you to calibrate without getting banding, but you'll need a third-party LUT loader because the LUT loader in Windows only supports 8-bit values. I don't know of a way to enable dithering with NVIDIA cards in Windows, so NVIDIA users will get some banding when using a color profile. Mac OS X enables dithering for both ATI/AMD and NVIDIA GPUs, so gradients should always be smooth there.

That leaves me with a conundrum:

ATI/AMD: no banding with calibration, but can only get 85 Hz
NVIDIA: banding with calibration, but can get 100 Hz

I wish there was some way to get one or the other to do both.
 
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Messaged him/her yesterday. Said he/she would update the shipping information soon.

Btw: both of the ebay sellers now carry catleap tempered glass version. I wonder if it is worth it to upgrade to that one.

He just replied to me

"Hi, usually monitor is sent in 2 business day.
Your order was placed on last night, so it will be sent on Thursday."

I placed my order 3/4 8:00pm Pacific or 11:00am their time 3/5. Still early enough on Monday to get it shipped out. I hope he meant Tuesday not Thursday, but we'll see I guess :p
 
@ToastyX

What was the actual colour temperature out of the box?

I thought the X-Rite i1D2 were commonly out by 500-600k but are still superior to the DPT94B in terms of white point accuracy. Not sure about the Spectraview version though. My i1d2 differs by 500k and 10cdm/2 vs my i1 display pro.

If you have a PS3 or 360 can you try using them @720p?
 
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Btw: both of the ebay sellers now carry catleap tempered glass version. I wonder if it is worth it to upgrade to that one.

From what ive read, seems like the tempered glass ones should be avoided since people have had dust under there glass. Also read that the glass doesnt make the image quality any better so i just went with the non glass.
 
He just replied to me

"Hi, usually monitor is sent in 2 business day.
Your order was placed on last night, so it will be sent on Thursday."

I placed my order 3/4 8:00pm Pacific or 11:00am their time 3/5. Still early enough on Monday to get it shipped out. I hope he meant Tuesday not Thursday, but we'll see I guess :p

I placed mine on Saturday early morning and still haven't received a tracking # lol. Hopefully he will send me one tonight.
 
He just replied to me

"Hi, usually monitor is sent in 2 business day.
Your order was placed on last night, so it will be sent on Thursday."

Wow good to know. Hope i get mine shipped out soon.

I really want to calibrate this monitor too. Are there any good, but relatively cheap calibrators?
 
I read through this whole thread and this looks like a great deal. I was wondering though. Could you power two of these monitors off of one graphics card such as the new 7 series cards from ATI or the Nvidia cards such as the 560?
 
NCX said:
@ToastyX

What was the actual colour temperature out of the box?

I thought the X-Rite i1D2 were commonly out by 500-600k but was still superior to the DPT94B in terms of white point accuracy. Not sure about the Spectraview version though. My i1d2 is differs by 500k and 10cdm/2 vs my i1 display pro.

If you have a PS3 or 360 can you try using them @720p?
Both colorimeters measured close to 6200K (6192K and 6195K).

I already tried feeding it non-native resolutions including 720p, but I get a garbled image no matter what. It probably just sends the signal straight to the panel without any processing, and the panel itself can't seem to handle non-native resolutions.
 
I thought 1280x720 was native, and both the 360/ps3 can out put 1280x720p if you force them to. Consoles work with the HP 27" which does not have a scaler or OSD when set to 1280x720. Maybe I am just being silly
 
The HP might have a simple controller that does pixel doubling. The catleap doesn't even have that.
 
gargle muffins, thanks any ways

For those with 1440p monitors type in 2560x1440 and behold a plethora of gorgeous wallpapers
http://wallbase.cc/search

Interfacelift also has lots of nice pics
 
NCX said:
I thought the X-Rite i1D2 were commonly out by 500-600k but are still superior to the DPT94B in terms of white point accuracy.
I just noticed the Eye-One's profile makes blues purplish in color-managed programs, so the DTP94 (D65) profile is probably the better one to use. The native one was also created using the DTP94, so that should be okay too.
 
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So who is going to be the first one to de-bezel the catleap!? :cool:

I am so tempted to sell off my PX2611W's and get 3 catleaps for my eyefinity rig. Just not sure which will be faster...

I think the PX26 has a Response Time of 5ms GTG and an input lag of 8ms. Not sure it would be worth the hassel of selling off 3 monitors that have zero issues and buy 3 more monitors...
 
How dare you share wallbase with the world! It was all mine I tell you! Mine ....... Mine!

I messaged one of the guys and got him to agree to ship 3 monitors for $1070. The Catleaps. Not so much worried about warranty work as I have an excellent guy who can fix these types of problems as they arise even down to replacement panels if need be, at my cost of course but, worried about enough connections for eyefinity. These have dual dvi on each monitor. I'm sure my 7970 will push them no problem. I want to get 3 of these for this desk http://www.versatables.com/pages/products/office/vc7224.php for my new recording studio / gaming rig. top shelf would hold my 42" LCD. Under the top shelf, the 3 x 27" Catleaps on the Versa Monitor Rail. Then my 2 monitors on on 2 added utility shelves.

I am also leaning HEAVILY toward the tempered glass. Unlike you guys, yes I agree dust could get in between things but I love the thought and the look of the glass. I love gloss. Who the hell uses their pc in the living room with all those windows. I thought all of us were supposed to be in our parents basement? lol
 
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I am so tempted to sell off my PX2611W's and get 3 catleaps for my eyefinity rig. Just not sure which will be faster...

I think the PX26 has a Response Time of 5ms GTG and an input lag of 8ms. Not sure it would be worth the hassel of selling off 3 monitors that have zero issues and buy 3 more monitors...
Not sure if you saw the chart i linked earlier that shows actual pixel response times.

Edit: Fixed, Thx NCX, free Catleap for you on it's way :p
 
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I will accept an apology in the form of a free Catleap showing up at my door by Friday.

Some of those measurements seem a bit funky, I would take them with a grain of salt.
 
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I cannot believe this, a 27" IPS with LED backlight *and* no grainy coating! And why the hell hasn't Dell already started badging these?! Why are we having to take risks from South Korean noname brands when LG is already shipping this panel in bulk?

Really contemplating buying one, but I'm worried about risk. The panel uniformity on the Korean review site for the Catleap was not too good, with a variance of 45cd/m2. That would be very noticeable. Even a lot of the Dell U2711's have poor uniformity (out of the 3 I had, only one was acceptable) but at least you can return them to Dell easily. Also the Korean review for the Achieva shows very low contrast ratio (400:1 max). Probably another dud panel? Not sure what to do. I need a monitor bad, and there is nothing else on the market that fits my needs.
 
Catleap with HDMI for 522$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CA...tDomain_0&hash=item3f1499678c#ht_11920wt_1396

122$ for an HDMI port...I want to be able to use my consoles but man that is a steep premium, plus if it still has input lag I am back at square 1. I can't stand the input lag on my 850D (18ms) for games which require precision aiming like Uncharted 3 and using a keyboard/mouse with vsync (I hate tearing) with PC games is even worse .

I am tempted to sell my S27A850D for a Catleap, though I do like having 1 matte and 1 glossy display, it is nice for different games/films. I thought the ZR274 which does not have a scaler worked with consoles as long as you set them to 720p so maybe the DVI only Catleap will...

Dream seller indicated to me that he may start selling the Q270 LED Multi towards the end of this week, so if you're interested you may want to wait a bit for an extra competitor to lower the price.
 
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I want to get 3 of these for this desk http://www.versatables.com/pages/products/office/vc7224.php for my new recording studio / gaming rig. top shelf would hold my 42" LCD. Under the top shelf, the 3 x 27" Catleaps on the Versa Monitor Rail. Then my 2 monitors on on 2 added utility shelves.

Woa that thing is like a $500 Ikea Jerker desk. Someone really picked up the ball when Ikea dropped it by discontinuing the Jerker.

On a side note I'm trying to decide if I want a Catleap for seme awesome 2560x1440. Although I have two EA231WMi which I just learned how to put at 83 hz refresh rate thanks to Toasty, but have always wanted a 3rd for eyefinity I just can't find anyone selling one.
 
Pulled the trigger on a Catleap Q270 SE from green-sum. $370 for a 27" 1440P IPS with the potential for 90+ hz sounds good to me! Interested in the Multi version with the scaler, but worried about introducing lag and whether the high refresh rates can be obtained on that particular model, so just went with the SE.
 
ToastyX:

Thanks for all the comprehensive information about the Catleap. You pushed me -- and I'm sure others -- over the edge to buying one.
 
What is about these monitors that allows you to "cheat" and boost the refresh rate and have it work vs other monitors?
 
Sounds like a great deal after a quick look at a few long threads on these. 1/3 of the price of my ACD. I wouldn't throw your 120hz 2ms - 5ms TN out the window though since these ips still have over 9ms response time ( I think the ACD is 10.x to 13ms). I would think they still blur/smear on fast FoV movement even at higher hz since the pixels can't respond fast enough.. I'd be curious of some blur testing results.
 
I will copy my post about loading color profiles here:

ScribbyDaGreat said:
Thanks to Toasty for doing the color profiles for the Catleap monitors. I may have missed how to install them in this seriously long thread so here is a quickie install procedure (Windows 7 - not sure about others).
Go to Display, Screen Resolution.
Select your monitor and click "Advanced Settings"
Select "Color Management" tab
Click "Color Management . . ." button
Click "Use my settings for this device" check box
Click "Add" under the "Profiles associated with this device" box.
Select "Browse" and select the color profiles you want to add - I added all three Toasty made so I could decide which one I liked.
With more than one profile in the box - simply click "Set as Default Profile" to make that one default.
Cheers! Again, a huge thank you to Toasty for these!
That will set the color profile to use in color managed programs, but that won't load the profile's gamma correction. You also have to go to the Advanced tab and enable the "Use Windows display calibration" option. The option is grayed out in the initial screen, so you have to click "Change system defaults..." and go to the Advanced tab there to enable it.

However, that uses Windows's LUT loader, which only supports 8-bit values, so gradients will have some banding. I have an alternate method of loading the gamma correction using a third-party LUT loader. This takes advantage of the 10-bit LUT + dithering that AMD/ATI cards have, so gradients stay smooth. I'd like to know if there are any NVIDIA cards where you can use the LUT loader and still have smooth gradients.

I created a zip that includes the LUT loader from Argyll CMS along with the native and d65 color profiles: catleap-profiles.zip

1. Copy the "Color Profiles" folder to C:\ (if you want it somewhere else, you'll have to edit the "Load catleap" shortcuts)
2. Double-click one of the "Load catleap" shortcuts to load the corresponding profile.
3. Copy the shortcut you want to use to the Startup folder in the start menu if you want it to load automatically on boot.
4. If you want color management, you still have to go through the steps mentioned above to set the correct profile, but don't enable the "Use Windows display calibration" option if you're using this method.

You can use this image to test if gradients are smooth:
gradient.png
 
Maybe ToastyX can gives us a PixerPixAn pics vs his NEC, though he did already say there similar and the Catleap uses the same panel as the Hazro HZW27C. No point in posting TFT Centrals Hazro C model pics and comparing them with their NEC pics since they used different camera settings. One can't use PixerPixAn to make a definitive statement about a displays pixel response either.

According to that Asian site the pixel response times on the Catleap is pretty much identical to my 850D which has much more noticeable blur and ghosting vs my Asus VG236H at 60hz.

A simple test to see if the higher hz are supported I found was to drag a window around. On my 850D when set to >60hz the window would tear and the movement was choppy. Movie playback showed tearing during camera pans which were also not as smooth. Maybe I just don't have the timings right but my old Acer G245H and F2380's did not tear and had perfect movement @72hz.
 
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High ppi ips are still really awesome for desktop stuff.. real estate, color, uniformity and gorgeous imagery even if they blur/smear more. I would still keep a 120hz tn, especially if you already own one.. even better run both. You could have a 27" 120hz TN for $400 at one point, and this ips for another $400... doesn't sound bad at all considering.. or pick your poison and suffer the tradeoffs.
 
High ppi ips are still really awesome for desktop stuff.. real estate, color, uniformity and gorgeous imagery even if they blur/smear more. I would still keep a 120hz tn, especially if you already own one.. even better run both. You could have a 27" 120hz TN for $400 at one point, and this ips for another $400... doesn't sound bad at all considering.. or pick your poison and suffer the tradeoffs.

Or get two 27" for $400! i bet you can probably haggle with the seller and get the price to $360 if you buy two
 
Dream-seller offered me 3 for $375 each... there are other sellers already at $375 for a single one :p
 
I would get one personally and game on a 120hz tn.. thats what I did sortof.. but it was an ACD I bought a year ago on no interest loan from BB and paid off. Then I couldn't pass up trying the 120hz TN when they had a brief sale for $399.99. I don't regret it. I highly recommend running both and dedicating the 120hz TN to gaming. Even if they are different resolutions their form factor matches up pretty nicely. The regular desktop real-estate, ppi/rez, and imagery usage of the 2560x1440 non-AG IPS is worth it for that alone... at this price a no brainer if within your budget.
 
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part of another post I did.. WiP desktop setup

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These pics are of my still a work-in-progress array that I have only been testing for a few weeks. I added the 120hz samsung to the array for gaming at the central desk position. When I am browsing, viewing images, doing photoshop, 3d modeling, using graphics tablet, or using other suites/apps, file management, etc I roll my chair to the left keyboard and mouse and use the cinema display and its "sidebar" 19" next to it. .
.
27inACD_27in120hz_19in-sdes_sm_1-6-2012.jpg

..
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monitor-array_blooming_1sm.jpg


This is the cinema display (left) side of the array. I have an erogtron arm for it honest lol (yes thats a solid plate style cinderblock beneath it temporarily). The glare is from the flash. I don't keep any room lighting in front of my monitors. The corner desk now faces out into the room instead of an against the wall/bookshelf stereotypically setup.
acd-and-19in-900x1440_1sm.jpg

.

I'm pretty happy with the potential of my current setup for now. Hoping to get the room remodel and wiring all done in the following months~>spring, so I'll potentially have much better pics someday.
 
A simple test to see if the higher hz are supported I found was to drag a window around. On my 850D when set to >60hz the window would tear and the movement was choppy. Movie playback showed tearing during camera pans which were also not as smooth. Maybe I just don't have the timings right but my old Acer G245H and F2380's did not tear and had perfect movement @72hz.

Windows 7 has vsync so you shouldn't see any tearing regardless of monitor. I cannot stand unsynced motion...XP is guilty of that unless in full screen.
 
Got this email from dream-seller:

Hi!
Thanks for your message and for your interest on our product.

Let me introduce you the regulation about this product in Korea. We contacted the manufacturers of this monitor and they answered back to us as the following story.

About the dead pixel, up to 10 pcs of dead pixel, manufacturers of monitors in Korea don't replace the monitor with dead pixel with a new replacement. It's a part of law in Korea. We are really sorry for this inconvenience.

And QH270-IPSB tempered glass monitors are mostly used at PC rooms in Korea. Monitors at PC rooms are used for PC games, and to PC gamers, dust inside the glass is not a big problem to play computer game. So the owners of PC rooms don't care much about dust in monitor glass and therefore, manufacturers don't have any regulation with the dust in monitors and they don't take return back the product with dust. Sorry for this inconvenience.

We'll wait for your reply. Please send a message back to us. If you have any further question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Hope to have a deal with you soon. Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,


- dream-seller
 
What happens when you send these monitors a resolution lower than 2560x1440? Do you get any picture at all? Does it scale it to fit or pad it into the center without scaling?
 
What happens when you send these monitors a resolution lower than 2560x1440? Do you get any picture at all? Does it scale it to fit or pad it into the center without scaling?
You would need to enable GPU scaling for this to work.
 
Got this email from dream-seller:

And QH270-IPSB tempered glass monitors are mostly used at PC rooms in Korea. Monitors at PC rooms are used for PC games, and to PC gamers, dust inside the glass is not a big problem to play computer game. So the owners of PC rooms don't care much about dust in monitor glass and therefore, manufacturers don't have any regulation with the dust in monitors and they don't take return back the product with dust. Sorry for this inconvenience.

I can understand the dead/stuck/damaged pixel leeway (note I said understand not agree with) but, what gamer wouldn't be driven insane by dust behind the glass?
 
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