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3dfx Voodoo 5 6000

Verge said:
call me a stupid head but is there no compatible alternative for the teapo caps?
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Brand doesn't matter as long as the specs are met, which many other capacitor brands do with great ease. Teapo is a shit cap brand, the only trouble you'd have is if the caps were of a non-standard size, which many of the shit cap brands love to do. I know Asia-X and Fuhjyyu have non-standard cap sizes that make it difficult to install replacements. I once had an 8x40mm 2200uF 16v Fuhjyyu cap in an Antec PSU and it was a nightmare fitting a standard replacement in. I had to extend the leads of the new cap and mount it sideways on other caps due to the cramped nature inside the unit.

Those look like standard 10x20, 25 or 30mm caps so replacing them with something else is easy. The only worrying bit is if the dead cap nuked something up or downstream of it, since they have a habit of becoming electrically leaky and causing havoc.
 
Been reading and watching up on 3dfx difference between software rendering on games like Quake 1, etc... Seems for the Voodoo 1 you'd want shielded cables and also a good Matrox PCI card to reduce the blurriness

 
erek said:
Seems for the Voodoo 1 you'd want shielded cables and also a good Matrox PCI card to reduce the blurriness
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Shielded VGA cable, yes. Matrox card? nope, nope and more nope.

My first gaming rig was a Matrox G200 + Diamond Monster3D Voodoo1. The Matrox card caused endless troubles in DOS games and some Windows titles, especially Duke 3D and Shadow Warrior. Transparent/translucent textures would cause massive slowdowns, and if they took up enough of the screen, a crash to DOS.

I later got my hands on some Matrox Mystique and MGA Millennium II cards with the 8 MB RAM expansion, they were no better. The only thing Matrox cards were good for is high resolution 2D displays and double/triple outputs, which they had the market cornered until the mid 2000s.
 
Found this in a old Antec SOHO server case, any ideas how much it goes for? Looked on Ebay and could only find non-Apollo versions that had 64MB-128MB, but no 32MB.
They were going for $40-$50. I tested it in the mobo it was installed in, Asus P4S800D-X w/ 2.8E and it boots up fine. (BIOS no HDD)

CAD8500.jpg


CAD85001.jpg
 
erek said:
what do you all think of running a Voodoo5 series on Windows XP? are the reverse engineered drivers horrible?

this guy here ran Q3A with WinXP, but didn't demonstrate any other games, and i guess the Voodoo5 6000 drivers even on Win9x were Alpha at best:

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Personally, I'd want to keep it in the era, meaning Windows 98 would be period correct.

I was replacing the caps on my Gigabyte Tualatin motherboard the other day due to one leaking from the top of the cap when I noticed that the GA60XET has a 1.5/3.3v AGP jumper....Interesting.
 
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erek said:
Click to expand...


Wow, those caps are a real mess! The same caps are fitted to my Amiga 1200, I replaced all of them the day I got it.

They're not as bad as those horrible NiCad's, but the electrolyte can still make a mess of precious vintage PCB's if left for extended periods.
 
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erek said:
Click to expand...


He could have saved a massive amount of time if he would have twisted the old caps off. Once you get the body of the cap off, the plastic base comes right off and the leftover leads are easily removed with the soldering iron.
 
GiGaBiTe said:
He could have saved a massive amount of time if he would have twisted the old caps off. Once you get the body of the cap off, the plastic base comes right off and the leftover leads are easily removed with the soldering iron.
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You've got to be very careful. If the electrolyte has leaked onto the PCB you'll rip the traces off the board.
 
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Mazzspeed said:
You've got to be very careful. If the electrolyte has leaked onto the PCB you'll rip the traces off the board.
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Heaving up on the pads while trying to alternate heating the legs of the cap is far more likely to cause damage unless you have a super heavy duty soldering iron. Unlike radial or axial caps, the solder contact area extends almost to the center on the bottom of the SMD cap, making it extremely difficult to melt. I wouldn't recommend that method unless you had sufficiently powerful hot tweezers to melt both sides all the way at the same time.

I tried the method the guy used when I first started replacing SMD caps and I had tons of problems with lifted pads. Once I switched to the 90 degree turn with pliers and pull method, I haven't had a lifted pad since. And these are on boards where the electrolyte has already started seeping into the internal board layers.
 
GiGaBiTe said:
Heaving up on the pads while trying to alternate heating the legs of the cap is far more likely to cause damage unless you have a super heavy duty soldering iron. Unlike radial or axial caps, the solder contact area extends almost to the center on the bottom of the SMD cap, making it extremely difficult to melt. I wouldn't recommend that method unless you had sufficiently powerful hot tweezers to melt both sides all the way at the same time.

I tried the method the guy used when I first started replacing SMD caps and I had tons of problems with lifted pads. Once I switched to the 90 degree turn with pliers and pull method, I haven't had a lifted pad since. And these are on boards where the electrolyte has already started seeping into the internal board layers.
Click to expand...

I use an iron at 400 degrees C, apply flux and touch up with leaded solder. Once this is done I carefully heat the pad for just the right amount of time and rock the cap away from the pad to 'lift the hot side up'. Once this is done I repeat the process on the other side and the cap is off. I admit, the particular design of cap in question is a major PITA, but I rarely encounter any issues removing them using my method with an iron at 400 degrees C.

Just don't use a hot air rework gun, the cap explodes and smacks you in the nose...
 
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erek said:
GiGaBiTe

Would you be willing to recap an entire PSU?

if i buy one, wondering if i can have it direct shipped to you

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-True...245956&hash=item2604e2c3d7:g:3PQAAOSwfPlbqdcV

i need a quality PSU with at least 30 Amps on the +5V rails
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I'll recap that unit if you want it, but it'd likely also need to be fan modded because of the "quiet" technology causing massive internal overheating. Slapping the fan across the 12v rail is the easiest option, but loudest. Replacing the fan with something like an arctic cooling quiet fan would be better.
 
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GiGaBiTe said:
I'll recap that unit if you want it, but it'd likely also need to be fan modded because of the "quiet" technology causing massive internal overheating. Slapping the fan across the 12v rail is the easiest option, but loudest. Replacing the fan with something like an arctic cooling quiet fan would be better.
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Looking for a reliable solution to provide low ripple and +5V @ 30 Amps at least
 
Err, actually +5V and 40 amps

"2800+ is around 82watt tdp V5-6000 is around 78watt tdp also"
 

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This one should suffice. Not sure about shipping from Canada. Found a few US vendors that carry them, at double the price.
 
erek said:
Err, actually +5V and 40 amps

"2800+ is around 82watt tdp V5-6000 is around 78watt tdp also"
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Athlon XP 2800+ has a 68W TDP which on that board looks to be pulling from the 5v rail.

The V5 6000 pulls almost exclusively from the 12v rail, you don't need a massive 5v rail.

If you want an Antec PSU with a beefy 5v rail, I'd recommend one of the later Basic Power models like this one that doesn't have the crap fan problem:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273498333949

Or if you want a new PSU, this one has 20A on the 5v rail which should be fine.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139196
 
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Wouldn't this year 2000 era hardware need the negative 5 volt rail? Large reason I chose the one above.
 
The only place that the -5v rail is exposed on motherboards from the late 90s to the early 2000s is on the ISA/LPC bus, and even then it's almost never used.

-5v was only really used on ancient motherboards, like 808x-80486 era and ancient ISA cards. By the mid 90s, the -5v rail had fallen out of use, the only reason that I can think you would need it is some old ISA sound cards used it for biasing and wouldn't work properly without it.
 
Why would anyone want this junk?
You can basically build one yourself and it would be faster, that's how old this tech is.
Yes, I have been around when Voodoo cards were considered the best one can buy, even drooled over one because I was still living with parents and couldn't afford one. Today? Dead tech.
 
erek said:
EPoX EP-8K5A2+ Rev. 1.2 Rev.A2 2600 & Rev.A 3700 compatible
EPoX EP-8K5A3+ Rev. 1.1 Rev.A2 2600 & Rev.A 3700 compatible


(that's compatible!)

https://forums.evga.com/3dfx-Voodoo...-I-did-for-the-3dfx-communities-m2185131.aspx
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Ok I just took a few pics of it trying to find a revision number and see rev 1.0.

Also I believe I replaced a few caps on it a few years ago. The large blue caps. For some reason I didnt use it.. maybe because I found a dfi nf3 board.

Still interested?

http://imgur.com/gallery/VH8bT8q
 
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eclypse said:
Ok I just took a few pics of it trying to find a revision number and see rev 1.0.

Also I believe I replaced a few caps on it a few years ago. The large blue caps. For some reason I didnt use it.. maybe because I found a dfi nf3 board.

Still interested?

http://imgur.com/gallery/VH8bT8q
Click to expand...

Very much so, the board looks to be in good shape, is there any way for you to even test it anymore?
 
Nebell said:
Why would anyone want this junk?
You can basically build one yourself and it would be faster, that's how old this tech is.
Yes, I have been around when Voodoo cards were considered the best one can buy, even drooled over one because I was still living with parents and couldn't afford one. Today? Dead tech.
Click to expand...
For the same reason people enjoy restoring antique and classic cars.
 
erek said:
Very much so, the board looks to be in good shape, is there any way for you to even test it anymore?
Click to expand...

Sure I can dig up a CPU and ram and plug it in and see what happens. I'll get to it tomorrow and get back to you.

Price.. I'll think about it.. though your welcome to shoot off an offer.
 
eclypse said:
Sure I can dig up a CPU and ram and plug it in and see what happens. I'll get to it tomorrow and get back to you.

Price.. I'll think about it.. though your welcome to shoot off an offer.
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$40 shipped?
 
eclypse said:
Sure I can dig up a CPU and ram and plug it in and see what happens. I'll get to it tomorrow and get back to you.

Price.. I'll think about it.. though your welcome to shoot off an offer.
Click to expand...

i'm open to negotiate, do you accept PayPal?
 
Nebell said:
It IS junk.
Click to expand...

What is junk to some is an 'antique' to others.

And, I have to say, some of the ingenuity and the lengths that some people will go to so as to use older hardware in their vintage environment is more [H]ard to me than all the people slapping new computers together and calling it a day. I will never be a part of the vintage crowd but I certainly admire their efforts and dedication.
 
Nebell said:
Troll?

It IS junk.
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You conveniently ignored my reply.

Yes, it's old hardware. Everyone knows this. People restoring it aren't doing so because it's fast. Lots of people enjoy the challenge in the restoration process, or building period-correct retro boxes, or reliving their childhood, or just because it's rare and that makes it cool.

The real question is why you are posting in this thread? Your replies aren't adding value, and everyone here knows these aren't modern components, so... do you just enjoy wasting your own time?
 
eclypse said:
Sure I can dig up a CPU and ram and plug it in and see what happens. I'll get to it tomorrow and get back to you.

Price.. I'll think about it.. though your welcome to shoot off an offer.
Click to expand...


$50 shipped? negotiable
 
Let me attempt to test it first. This will surely open up interest doing so hehe. Gota find where I put the new cmos batteries first. :)
 
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