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3dfx Voodoo 5 6000

eclypse said:
Let me attempt to test it first. This will surely open up interest doing so hehe. Gota find where I put the new cmos batteries first. :)
Click to expand...

Heh, probably only new vooodoo 5 6000 buyers will have a need for this... that's why i'm in the market anyhow
 
Last part of post #163 would be the definition of a troll.

Some people enjoy museums. Others think they are a waste of space. So be it. What I like is that you actually want to run and use your nostalgic piece. Unlike some people I know with a classic car collection that just sits there.

Been following this saga with interest and have added compatible boards to my list of search terms. Cannot hurt having an extra set of eyes. :)
 
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Its alive!

http://imgur.com/gallery/oHbhIuP

First tried a 2100xp amd CPU "I think".. worked for a 2 mins..then durring entering the bios setup I hear a tiny pop noise.. at first thought it was a sound the monitor made.. maybe. Anyways no led diagnosis display. :/ powered it on and off and no post. Pull the heatsink off the CPU and check it and yup chipped CPU die one 2 corners. :/ oops! No round pads on the cpu and no spacer used so doh! Opps. Dead cpu.

So next I tried a seriously ancient 800 duron! Has the felt feet pads. Try again and all is well again.. i posted it about a dozen times and went into the bios settings and changed the date to today's and saved to cmos. Settings saved. Powered on and off a half dozen times and all is good.

Had used 2 dimms of 256mb DDR 400 ram and I think a nvidia 6800 gpu.

Thrilled to find an old easy to use CPU heatsink.. I have quite a few high end 462 socket heat sinks that's I'd have to bolt threw the board that would of took way too long setting up.. and also a few water blocks used from back when.

I believe I bought this board way back when cause I read one can use a 2500/2600 barton.

Lucky I had that old rare 100lb crt monitor still on the desk for my old school gaming rings.;)

Edit: wanted to add that now dead CPU! Haha had a hell of a life way back when.. nodded to the max. :/ all 4 corners cracked now.

http://imgur.com/gallery/CvAxrjZ
 
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eclypse said:
Its alive!

http://imgur.com/gallery/oHbhIuP

First tried a 2100xp amd CPU "I think".. worked for a 2 mins..then durring entering the bios setup I hear a tiny pop noise.. at first thought it was a sound the monitor made.. maybe. Anyways no led diagnosis display. :/ powered it on and off and no post. Pull the heatsink off the CPU and check it and yup chipped CPU die one 2 corners. :/ oops! No round pads on the cpu and no spacer used so doh! Opps. Dead cpu.

So next I tried a seriously ancient 800 duron! Has the felt feet pads. Try again and all is well again.. i posted it about a dozen times and went into the bios settings and changed the date to today's and saved to cmos. Settings saved. Powered on and off a half dozen times and all is good.

Had used 2 dimms of 256mb DDR 400 ram and I think a nvidia 6800 gpu.

Thrilled to find an old easy to use CPU heatsink.. I have quite a few high end 462 socket heat sinks that's I'd have to bolt threw the board that would of took way too long setting up.. and also a few water blocks used from back when.

I believe I bought this board way back when cause I read one can use a 2500/2600 barton.

Lucky I had that old rare 100lb crt monitor still on the desk for my old school gaming rings.;)

Edit: wanted to add that now dead CPU! Haha had a hell of a life way back when.. nodded to the max. :/ all 4 corners cracked now.

http://imgur.com/gallery/CvAxrjZ
Click to expand...


How much shipped?
 
Also I seen a old review of the mb on newegg.com where a guy said he used a 2400mhz I think.. might of been a 2600 on it.

Anyways I believe the latest bios works with up to 2600 maybe higher.
 
now to find a solid enough PSU with a +5V line of at least 35 Amps ...
 
so we worked out an arrangement and i now own an 8K5A2+, but does anyone know about a really high quality PSU with 35+ Amps at +5V rail?
 
How does one test a psu to see if they can get 35amps off the 5v rail? I have an old antec psu that I modded the 12/3.3/5v with pots to raise the voltage.
 
heh, looking for a solid PSU from the factory... don't want to risk anything
 
lame, can't order cause the captcha is busted:

v1_unsupported.png
 
erek said:
would you all trust this used power supply on a Voodoo5 6000 / 8K5A2+ build?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPARKLE-PO...h=item3b1fd8e8a1:g:bSsAAOSwaY9bxml-:rk:5:pf:0
Click to expand...
yes, FSP is a good brand. have used them and run into them for 15+ years.
the antecs mentioned below are all good for what you need. there are a few on ebay, heres a 480w for 10+
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-True...pid=1103883992&hash=item4d7e93d797:rk:15:pf:0


eclypse said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-True...559443?hash=item1a5e23e153:g:0tcAAOSwBFVbmwy~

Theres a new one.. not sealed though.

Have him test it first if possable. That long of storage the caps could go bad.
Click to expand...

that antec is local pick up only, in Portland.
 
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pendragon1 said:
yes, FSP is a good brand. have used them and run into them for 15+ years.
the antecs mentioned below are all good for what you need. there are a few on ebay, heres a 480w for 10+
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-True...pid=1103883992&hash=item4d7e93d797:rk:15:pf:0




that antec is local pick up only, in Portland.
Click to expand...

I would stay away from any CW based Antec SmartPower/SmartPower Blue/ SmartPower 2.0/True/TruePower/TruePower Blue/TruePower 2.0/NEOPower 300-550W PSU's of that era due to the ultra shit Fuhjyyu caps those units contain, especially used ones. Unless they have been recapped.
 
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CAD4466HK said:
I would stay away from any CW based Antec SmartPower/SmartPower Blue/ SmartPower 2.0/True/TruePower/TruePower Blue/TruePower 2.0/NEOPower 300-550W PSU's of that era due to the ultra shit Fuhjyyu caps those units contain, especially used ones. Unless they have been recapped.
Click to expand...
good point. I just ran into some of those a couple weeks ago, dead mobo with ooze all over.
 
CAD4466HK said:
I would stay away from any CW based Antec SmartPower/SmartPower Blue/ SmartPower 2.0/True/TruePower/TruePower Blue/TruePower 2.0/NEOPower 300-550W PSU's of that era due to the ultra shit Fuhjyyu caps those units contain, especially used ones. Unless they have been recapped.
Click to expand...

Guess I was a lucky one as I've never had a problem with antec psu's and have had that 550watt for prob close to 20 years.
 
eclypse said:
Guess I was a lucky one as I've never had a problem with antec psu's and have had that 550watt for prob close to 20 years.
Click to expand...

Maybe... maybe you have one of the very few models that didn't have crap caps.

I stopped using Antec PSUs quite a few years ago because I got tired of having to replace dead caps after 1-2 years. And when I did replace them it was pretty impossible to find caps that were rated the same as the originals that would fit in the same space as the originals... because the original caps were super crappy overrated caps and the ratings that were correct were never available in that small of diameter.

I actually ran wires from the circuit board and mounted some caps with zip ties because of this.
 
erek said:
now to find a solid enough PSU with a +5V line of at least 35 Amps ...
Click to expand...

Why do you need such a beefy 5v rail? The Voodoo5 6000 doesn't even use the 5v rail and even the fastest Athlon XP 3200+ only uses 89W, meaning you could get along fine with a 20A rail or 25A if you want a bit of extra breathing room. And that's assuming the board uses 5v CPU power regulators, later Athlon boards used 12v regulators.

CAD4466HK said:
Yeah I have a dead TruePower 430 and a SmartPower 350 sitting in my recycle pile, all secondary side caps are busted due to heat from the subpar fan controllers on those units.
Click to expand...

The SmartPower models were the ones with the trash fan controllers and severe overheating problem. It wasn't so much that they were subpar, it was because they weren't configured properly and the main rear fan never turned on. I developed a mod for those to force the fans to run at medium speed constantly. I don't remember the exact specifics, but it involved cutting a trace on the fan controller daughterboard and putting a fixed value resistor on one of the transistors so the controller always thought the PSU was hot and kept the fans running.

I've had much better luck with the Truepower models, I have one 450W model currently and never have had to recap it.


cyclone3d said:
Maybe... maybe you have one of the very few models that didn't have crap caps.

I stopped using Antec PSUs quite a few years ago because I got tired of having to replace dead caps after 1-2 years. And when I did replace them it was pretty impossible to find caps that were rated the same as the originals that would fit in the same space as the originals... because the original caps were super crappy overrated caps and the ratings that were correct were never available in that small of diameter.

I actually ran wires from the circuit board and mounted some caps with zip ties because of this.
Click to expand...

I thought I was the only one that had this problem. I used to get those junk SmartPower 300-350W models by the dozen with blown caps and I remember two of them being non-standard sizes and a nightmare to replace. One was a pencil thin 4700uF 16v cap and another was I think a 3300uF 10v cap, which were like 8mm in diameter by 35/40mm tall, which is a stupid non-standard and unobtanium size.

I usually just downsized the capacitance because I couldn't figure an elegant way to get the correct value back in. The units still worked fine afterwards, but I'm sure that the output regulation suffered a bit.
 
GiGaBiTe said:
The SmartPower models were the ones with the trash fan controllers and severe overheating problem. It wasn't so much that they were subpar, it was because they weren't configured properly and the main rear fan never turned on. I developed a mod for those to force the fans to run at medium speed constantly. I don't remember the exact specifics, but it involved cutting a trace on the fan controller daughterboard and putting a fixed value resistor on one of the transistors so the controller always thought the PSU was hot and kept the fans running.

I've had much better luck with the Truepower models, I have one 450W model currently and never have had to recap it.
Click to expand...

My TruePower 430 had a duty cycle of around 500RPM min/max no matter what the load placed on it was. After a few hours of BF2, the top of the case would get so hot you could melt Jolly Ranchers on it. The mod I came up with to fix the issue, was to bolt a 80mm fan directly to the 80mm exhaust connected to a Zalman FanMate rheostat at max.

The controller might not of been subpar but the duty cycle sure the hell was.

Back OT..

OP I agree with GiGaBiTe about you not needing so many amps on the 5V rail. Something like an old Enermax Whisper 300-350W would work great. They are virtually bulletproof. I still have 2 of them from 2002, up and running right now. One of them is in my daughters rig powering a Athlon X2 7750 with a R9 270 no sweat.
 
In that case this 300w Sparkle unit should fit the bill. They are still fairly common. Have one from the old days too and been considering new one for my retro system. Shame the 120mm bottom fan models are not available anymore.
 
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Really.. old psu's caps weaken with age. Should be going with the biggest wattage you can get.
 
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CAD4466HK said:
My TruePower 430 had a duty cycle of around 500RPM min/max no matter what the load placed on it was. After a few hours of BF2, the top of the case would get so hot you could melt Jolly Ranchers on it. The mod I came up with to fix the issue, was to bolt a 80mm fan directly to the 80mm exhaust connected to a Zalman FanMate rheostat at max.

The controller might not of been subpar but the duty cycle sure the hell was.
Click to expand...

Every Antec I've torn apart just used voltage ramps to control a two wire fan, none had PWM. There were a few which had PWM that ran out to an external connector to be plugged into the motherboard though, which is weird.

CAD4466HK said:
OP I agree with GiGaBiTe about you not needing so many amps on the 5V rail. Something like an old Enermax Whisper 300-350W would work great. They are virtually bulletproof. I still have 2 of them from 2002, up and running right now. One of them is in my daughters rig powering a Athlon X2 7750 with a R9 270 no sweat.
Click to expand...

350W may not be enough depending on the power routing on the motherboard. If everything is on the 12v rail, there might not be enough power to go around. If it's split between 5 and 12v, it should be fine.
 
SWEET!!! haha how exciting for me to see my old board fire up that big bad boy! Good job mb!

I had a weird moment when I was done testing it with my nvidia 6800gtx ultra card.. when i removed the card i was like wow.. possibly the next card to be installed in that board was the 3dfx voodoo 5 6000 card! Heh

Almost shed a tear seeing that old sexy board in the video.

Now box it up and pass that setup around the forum so we can all be super wowed! Haha j/k :)
 
pendragon1 said:
nice and no prob.
one of those fans sound rough though...
Click to expand...

Fans prob need a drop of oil. One would need to remove the fan and flip it over and remove the center sticker to reveal the opening and put a drop of oil in it and seal it back up.

Edit: actually wonder if the sticker is on top that needs to be removed to get to the insides.

Wonder if it would effect the value doing as much.. maybe tey and find some replacement fans for it while keeping the originals.
 
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eclypse said:
Fans prob need a drop of oil. One would need to remove the fan and flip it over and remove the center sticker to reveal the opening and put a drop of oil in it and seal it back up.
Click to expand...
yeah prob. but if not they are only a couple/few bucks to replace.
 
When ya get her all running make sure to install quake 2 and quake 3! Timedemo1 ftw!
 
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eclypse said:
Fans prob need a drop of oil. One would need to remove the fan and flip it over and remove the center sticker to reveal the opening and put a drop of oil in it and seal it back up.

Edit: actually wonder if the sticker is on top that needs to be removed to get to the insides.

Wonder if it would effect the value doing as much.. maybe tey and find some replacement fans for it while keeping the originals.
Click to expand...

The OEM 3dfx fans with AAVID stickers are ball bearing fans, oiling them won't help because the bearings are failing. You might be able to knock out the bearings and replace them if you could find bearings that small.

pendragon1 said:
yeah prob. but if not they are only a couple/few bucks to replace.
Click to expand...

Those fans are unobtanium.

While you can find 40mm fans, getting them with Mini JST headers and with the slim profile of the original AAVID brand fans is nearly impossible. The AAVID fans are 5-8mm thick and have wide and shallow mounting holes. Modern 40mm fans are going to be 10-15mm thick at minimum and have deep thin mounting holes which prevents them from mounting to the original heatsink.

When the fans on my Voodoo5 5500 failed, I had to do a lot of research and experimentation to get replacements to work. I ended up buying 3 wire fans and replacing the standard 3 pin fan connector with a 3 pin Mini JST pigtail, with I think a 2mm pin pitch. The mounting holes didn't line up so I removed the stock heatsinks and replaced them with much larger versions. The fans still don't fit quite right, but they work and the VSA-100 chips don't overheat.

Getting 3 wire fans is important because at least on my card, it won't power up unless it detects the fans are spinning.
 
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