So, this is the button that is on the back, lower right side of my JS9000. It may not be there on other models.What does that mean exactly? Turning it on & off right?
It was a surprisingly large upgrade for me. The image quality is much better. I can't point to one thing specifically, but I find it a lot easier on the eyes over long periods of time. Its just a better quality display all around.I saw that you upgraded to the KS8500 after sticking with the JU6700 for over a year. What do you think of the upgrade? I noticed a big difference when I went from the JU series to the JS. Just wondering if it was significant for you as well.
Agreed about the inconvenience. Nonetheless regarding your query, anything with gradients (fog, smoke, fire, bloom, light shafts, lense flare) looks incredible (Sleeping Dogs, GTA V and Far Cry Primal are good examples, especially at in-game night time). I wish I could use 12-bit color with Full RGB at 2160p (I can at 1080p) but unfortunately that is an HDMI 2.0 limitation - RGB Full (or 4:4:4) is apparently limited to 8-bit color at UHD. Makes me wish Samsung had considered Displayport, instead of crippling their displays with HDMI.That is interesting. It could be a bit inconvenient to switch back and forth between the two when you go back to doing desktop stuff, but if it looks good in games, I'm all for it.
I'll have to do some comparison between the two. You are pretty happy with the output?
Ahh ok yes the KS8000 has a little nub/button on the far bottom right that allows you to manually turn on/off, change sources and control volume.
I've never tried, but chances are you won't like it. With the HDMI2 bandwidth going to the screen, you'd max out at 30hz, since it only has bandwidth for 60hz, and every other frame is used for the left and right eyes.Is there a guide to getting games running in 3D with a Samsung active 3d 4k tv? I have been looking at tridef & Nvidia 3DTV Play. So far I can get 3D to work: desktop appears 3D, & Nvidia Control Panel test image works. But when I start a game, it will look like it's running in 3D mode (two overlapping pictures), but when I put the glasses on it remains 2 overlapping pictures. It does not appear 3D.
Finally found a working 20' 4k 60hz 4:4:4 cable, Monoprice's $15 "Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR, 20ft Black". Didn't have luck with Amazon Basics, or KabelDirekt 25'. It's really thick, & I would've preferred 25' but it works & is cheap. Monoprice also has a good selection of wall mounts.
After you enabled Game mode, did you adjust the sharpness slider from 50 to 0? A sharpness value of 0 in Game mode is equal to 50 in PC mode and provides the best sharpness / clearest text.For instance, switching to PC mode.. I ended up going with HDMI1/DVI and then turning game mode on.. unclear if there are other settings to make the pc image better or not.. its pretty solid though, but maybe not as sharp as my M series 4k tv in terms of text, but colors seem much more vibrant for some reason (on the samsung).
yep, i did this in fact.. here are my settings:After you enabled Game mode, did you adjust the sharpness slider from 50 to 0? A sharpness value of 0 in Game mode is equal to 50 in PC mode and provides the best sharpness / clearest text.
When you see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back, does it eventually fade away and/or "catch up" to the current position? From what I remember reading in this thread, input lag is pretty good but the pixel response time is slower than some higher-end sets. If that's the case then you'll notice some trailing and/or "ghost images" as the LCD pixels change states. If I'm correct, then this probably isn't the best set for gaming but may be acceptable depending on your tolerance level. Since I bought mine for office use, I will not be gaming on it and any slowness in pixel transition will not pose a problem for me. It was only $300, so I didn't expect the performance of my JS9000 and was willing to live with the compromises of the lesser hardware.Still confused on the 6290 series.. which is best... leaving it on HDMI1/DVI "mode" or switching the input to "PC".. and also confused on RGB or 4:4:4, whereas RGB + full range seems just as good if not better.
The biggest issue i'm having right now with this tv, is that if you are typing black text on a white background, i can see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back when you stop typing. Its very very slight.. however its more than on my vizio 43 M series tv. Question is.. how to mitigate.. will this be an issue with gaming.. is this input lag / response time or backlight bleedthrough.. if its input lag then thats less desireable obviously.
Yeah it eventually catches up, after a split second for instance. I'm testing out the Sony 43" today, hoping it fairs a little better.. the response time makes sense as being the culprit.When you see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back, does it eventually fade away and/or "catch up" to the current position? From what I remember reading in this thread, input lag is pretty good but the pixel response time is slower than some higher-end sets. If that's the case then you'll notice some trailing and/or "ghost images" as the LCD pixels change states. If I'm correct, then this probably isn't the best set for gaming but may be acceptable depending on your tolerance level. Since I bought mine for office use, I will not be gaming on it and any slowness in pixel transition will not pose a problem for me. It was only $300, so I didn't expect the performance of my JS9000 and was willing to live with the compromises of the lesser hardware.
Holy cow, man. I would love to experience playing a couple of games on that setup. Where did you find the JS9000s for $800?Well I finally went completely nuts and I'm pretty happy with the resulting insanity. I got some really good deals (~$800 each) for two more 48" JS9000's so I set up a 3-way surround. I have two EVGA GTX 1080 FTW's in SLI, and they drive either all 3 at 5760 x 1080 or one at full 4k at ~60fps in everything on ultra or close to it. I think the curve really makes it. You can see my little racing wheel setup there and stuff like Dirt3 and Project Cars are awesomely immersive. Same with ROTTR, GTA V, etc. [That's a Lift desk so I hit '1' and it lowers to match the racing rig, then '2' for regular seated use, '3' for working standing up, and '4' for max height/mucking with cables.]
I know I could have done 1440 and/or 120Hz or or just cheaper 1080 monitors or whatever but this suits me and my old man eyes. I sit pretty far back, and it's nice to be able to watch a 4k movie or youtube occasionally. I really like the image quality; I mostly stay in PC mode 4:4:4 12-bit color/full/RGB with the same basic settings recommended in this thread. It's also handy (but weird) that any one of the 3 remotes turns all 3 monitors on or off, but each controls menus for its own monitor properly. Another odd thing is all of them are on the same OS version (latest, with the new "pseudo-HDR" enabled) but the one on the right has more options in the menus (picture/advanced is not ghosted on it, but is on the other two.)
One thing that bugs me is that screenbloom doesn't seem to work any more. It used to change the room lights to match the "average" color on the screen, but now with the huge surround it does nothing, even with zones turned on and focused on a small area. The recessed lighting in this room is made of 9 hue bulbs in 3 x 3 and there are 3 Hue strips all around so that's a bummer I'm still working on. Anyone else use screenbloom and have trouble with a big virtual nvidia surround monitor?
If anyone has any questions about getting 3 monitors to work in surround or a specific game and can't find the answer on the widescreen gaming forums feel free to ask me; I've got it all figured out after some trial and error.
Holy cow, man. I would love to experience playing a couple of games on that setup. Where did you find the JS9000s for $800?
Also after reading your post I checked my nVidia CP settings and found that I was running RGB + limited dynamic range. I changed it to Full and can almost swear that image quality has improved after the TV went blank to apply the new setting. Could be placebo but I'm liking it so far!
Ebay and Blink, one from each. Prices are up to $9xx now but still a good deal with so many people trying to sell them for $1500-$2000.
I also noticed better color when going to "full". I just changed 8-bit to 12-bit color but haven't had a chance to really compare.
Remember I'm old, slow, and don't see so well so I don,t notice any lag in PC mode, but I do notice the 4:2:2 artifacts or whatever when in Game mode in windows, so I never use it.
If I thought it would work I'd get two more desks and two more monitors and make it even more of a surround. My wife thinks I'm completely nuts. She's probably right but I'm retired at 47, saved a lot of money while working hard at a good job, am doing well in the stock market using robinhood (thanks Trump!) and gaming is one of my favorite things besides eating good food and traveling so why not do it right? I have about $5k in this setup including the desk and the racing rig, and it will amuse me for hundreds of hour. My wife likes to play stuff too (Tomb Raider, demolition mode in FlatOut) so we have fun together wit it.
The crazy thing is it's like 12x the pixels of the 70" "HD" TV we have in the theatre room. I don't think 4k is worth it there since we sit so far back anyway
I finally jumped in "Samsung TV as monitor" wagon, and I'm having a bittersweet experience...I opted for Samsung KS7500 (europe designation), because I wanted good HDR experience (I have one PS4 Pro), and curved display.
Picture quality and game immersion is astounding, but I'm hitting several walls, from worse to nightmare:
- My setup is two rigs, one with Win10+nvidia 1080, the other is Hackintosh+nvidia 950. Sometimes (very often, in fact), if I switch from one rig to another, my samsung TV change mode from "PC" to "HDMI1/DVI" on its own, which is rather annoying. Is there any way to "fix" PC mode in those two sources (HDMI1 and HDMI2).
- I know Samsung TVs are not monitors, but is truly annoying swtich on/off TV every time I sleep my rig...I may have dodged this with kind of "frankenstein" project which involves a Raspberry Pi and lib-cec, now from my Hackintosh (my day-to-day rig) if I enter sleep mode, TV shuts down, and when I wake up it turns on by itself...But it's quite of a hack...
- My worst issue is regarding Hackintosh, every time I switch from Mac to the other rig, my hackintosh freezes..It's odd because it started happening from several weeks to now...But I think this is related to hackintoshes, so I don't expect fixing it soon.
Thanks to OP and everyone in this thread, I think this road is worth the time, but it's a rough one...
Thank you very much for the info.I was annoyed with having to turn the TV on and off with the remote at first as well, but I got used to it, and now I barely even notice that I'm doing it anymore. It's just become second nature.
The other issues I've never had. Have you made sure the TV has the latest firmware?
Granted, my use is different. I only ever use one input, my PC, switched between PC mode and Game mode.
Hmm, I've never had that, but I have also disabled sleep mode on my main rig. At 4.8Ghz it is perfectly stable, except for the fact that it never wakes up from sleep, so I disabled all sleep modes years ago.Thank you very much for the info.
Even using only one input, have you ever faced the issue regarding "random switch from PC mode to HDMI1"? I mean, if you put your rig to sleep, and wakes up, I sometimes have my source changed from "PC" to "HDMI1"...Weird...
I've got a JU6700 and run both Linux and Windows. I can consistently get a "new" set of TV settings by changing the output from the PC in a large enough way, but with the same basic settings switching OS didn't change anything.Even using only one input, have you ever faced the issue regarding "random switch from PC mode to HDMI1"?
Check your TV's Eco setting and make sure ambient light detection or similar is off.I bought a 50" 6300 series Samsung TV and today at 9 PM it got really dark. I don't have Night Mode enabled in Display Settings for Win 10 64 Creator's Update. Moving my mouse didn't seem to disable the sudden darkening of the screen. It was a gradual thing that lasted over a period of 5 - 7 seconds I suppose. I restarted the PC but didn't restart the TV and all is well again. Should I be concerned and take this TV back to Walmart?