2015 Samsung 4k TV as a Monitor Set Up Guide

Zarathustra[H]

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I'm asking how to manually turn it on without the remote...

I can't speak for the 2016 KS models. My 2015 JS9000 has a four way power/navigation switch on the back of the screen on the lower right side.

No idea if that is there on the KS8000
 

Zarathustra[H]

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What does that mean exactly? Turning it on & off right?
So, this is the button that is on the back, lower right side of my JS9000. It may not be there on other models.

upload_2017-2-2_15-39-59.png


Pushing it in toggles power on and off. Left, right up and down adjusts other things in a condensed menu on the screen.
 

Lateralus

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My KS8500 has that.
I saw that you upgraded to the KS8500 after sticking with the JU6700 for over a year. What do you think of the upgrade? I noticed a big difference when I went from the JU series to the JS. Just wondering if it was significant for you as well.
 

Dan_D

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I saw that you upgraded to the KS8500 after sticking with the JU6700 for over a year. What do you think of the upgrade? I noticed a big difference when I went from the JU series to the JS. Just wondering if it was significant for you as well.
It was a surprisingly large upgrade for me. The image quality is much better. I can't point to one thing specifically, but I find it a lot easier on the eyes over long periods of time. Its just a better quality display all around.
 

Syntax_Error

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@Zarathustra[H]:

If Game Mode puts you into Chroma 4:2:2 anyway then those with Nvidia GPUs could change subsampling from the 'Nvidia Control Panel' to 4:2:2 and use 10/12 bit color on their Samsung tv, which is pretty cool for games and 10-bit videos.

 

Zarathustra[H]

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@Zarathustra[H]:

If Game Mode puts you into Chroma 4:2:2 anyway then those with Nvidia GPUs could change subsampling from the 'Nvidia Control Panel' to 4:2:2 and use 10/12 bit color, which is pretty cool for games and 10-bit videos.


That is interesting. It could be a bit inconvenient to switch back and forth between the two when you go back to doing desktop stuff, but if it looks good in games, I'm all for it.

I'll have to do some comparison between the two. You are pretty happy with the output?
 

Syntax_Error

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That is interesting. It could be a bit inconvenient to switch back and forth between the two when you go back to doing desktop stuff, but if it looks good in games, I'm all for it.

I'll have to do some comparison between the two. You are pretty happy with the output?
Agreed about the inconvenience. Nonetheless regarding your query, anything with gradients (fog, smoke, fire, bloom, light shafts, lense flare) looks incredible (Sleeping Dogs, GTA V and Far Cry Primal are good examples, especially at in-game night time). I wish I could use 12-bit color with Full RGB at 2160p (I can at 1080p) but unfortunately that is an HDMI 2.0 limitation - RGB Full (or 4:4:4) is apparently limited to 8-bit color at UHD. Makes me wish Samsung had considered Displayport, instead of crippling their displays with HDMI.
 

thegreywizard

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So, this is the button that is on the back, lower right side of my JS9000. It may not be there on other models.

View attachment 16098

Pushing it in toggles power on and off. Left, right up and down adjusts other things in a condensed menu on the screen.
Ahh ok yes the KS8000 has a little nub/button on the far bottom right that allows you to manually turn on/off, change sources and control volume.

Thanks for the help.

I also use my tv as a monitor for my computer, so sometimes it's easier to just manually turn the tv on/off if the remote isn't on my desk.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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@Zarathustra[H]:

If Game Mode puts you into Chroma 4:2:2 anyway then those with Nvidia GPUs could change subsampling from the 'Nvidia Control Panel' to 4:2:2 and use 10/12 bit color on their Samsung tv, which is pretty cool for games and 10-bit videos.

Hey,

So I tested this, and I don't know why. Game mode is reportedly 4:2:2, but running it in YCbCr 422 mode actually looks worse than RGB mode on the desktop. Maybe the game mode is somehow better?

It's possible this is not noticeable in game though, will have to test.
 

0996451

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Is there a guide to getting games running in 3D with a Samsung active 3d 4k tv? I've downloaded both the trials for 3DTV Play, & Tridef. Tridef is much harder to set up & find information for (but if you want to mod a specific game for max 3D effect it seems like a good resource). I've also heard about Helix Mod.

Finally, is there a dummy's guide to 3D out there? I keep getting tangled up in stereoscopic, side by side, analglyph, and HMD information all thrown together. Bits and pieces of info spread out everywhere.

*edit- got it working, just had to set the TV to side by side mode after turning the 3D setting on. Enjoying playing around with 3D, not perfect at all, but it's something fun to play with.


Personal thoughts about using a 4k TV with a PC-

If you can lower your expectations of having a *perfect* display, then I'd say definitely go for it. The 4k real estate is awesome. Temper your expectations of 4k stomping all over 1440p, & I think you'll be happy with the modest upgrade in graphics. 3D is cool, definitely a bit gimmicky/hyped, but if someone offered it as an upgrade for $1-200 I'd definitely add it on for fun to play with.

Color calibration can be a bit of a PITA with the TV overriding/reacting to the PC adjustments. The tv UI offers many adjustments though & you should be able to get it to do what you want it to. It would still be nice to remove the TV settings (outside of backlight) & just use the PC to calibrate colors.

Curved TVs are also a bit gimmicky/hyped. If I was offered one as an upgrade for $75-150 I'd probably take it, definitely would at the lower range of that price bracket. I definitely prefer them at 48"+ for single person gaming. Don't know how it'd be for desktop use, moving around windows etc.

Looking at displays at Best Buy is near useless. I found the best place to look was Frys because: they had remotes with most of the tvs (you can adjust color settings & get a feel for the UI), they had a wide selection, and the sales team left you alone to play with the tvs. Basically couldn't tell the difference between TVs unless they were next to each other (couldn't even distinguish 1080p/4k reliably while the tvs were running their demos). I don't think going with an LG/Sony would have been a terrible option, they looked pretty nice. The Hisense/Westinghouse also looked nice, but I don't know how compatible they are as monitors. The 6290 looked fine, I personally thought the curved Samsungs looked the best (aside from OLEDs/85" freaks).

I'd focus on getting a feel for size, and the menu/remote/UI. Trying to compare image quality at a store is near impossible IMO. You can also get a feel for curved/flat. 40" looks a lot smaller next to a 55" than it does on your desk. Try running a blind test & walking around the store guessing brands & resolution without looking. Then go back after you've picked your favorites & check brands/resolution/model lines/prices. That really made me take all the reviews I read with a grain of salt; not disagreeing that there's a difference, but pointing out that settings/options make a huge difference IRL. Also made me a lot less picky, & made the less expensive tvs a lot more attractive to me.

Size: Probably stick to 40-42" if you're replacing your monitor with it. I think 48-65" is better to be used in addition to a monitor. Tough choice, no right answer. 40" isn't bad, and you using a larger screen for general use is not bad either (just kind of a big unnecessary luxury). I'd probably go 48-65" + a 2nd average quality monitor for daily use. Depends on your personal needs/preference. No real deal breakers with either, aside from your games looking too small on 40", or running all your programs in small windows & only utilizing a fraction of your 50"+ screen/wasting power. The 4k resolution for productivity is what's really nice, the screen size is not as big of a deal IMO. Safer to size up & run a 2nd monitor if you can't decide.
*If you plan on VESA mounting also consider size/weight. I think an Ergotron lx can theoretically hold a 40" Samsung at it's <20lbs, but a 48" may come out over the limit. Also consider VESA size/adapters 100mm/200mm/400mm/etc.

If you're on the fence, & can get a quality 4k TV for <$500, I'd say go for it. The Qnix/Wasabi etc. were attractive, but I think the 4K TV offers a better value (when compared to current $375+ 4K monitor). TVs offered a better value (price:size ratio), and they seem to be a little less risky as far as durability/build quality. Have nothing against budget 4k monitors, & if you want freesync they have another attraction to them.

If you're expecting a perfect monitor/display/experience I don't think you should go for it. Or maybe look into OLED? I don't think a perfect monitor exists. Even the Predator can have issues. I'd say it's better to cheap out, & look for a great value monitor. It's easier to explain away the inevitable imperfections & you're left with a happier experience.

If you're an FPS whore I don't know what to tell you. I don't think any of us are expecting >60FPS for at least a year or two+ on a reasonably priced consumer 4k setup. And again, I don't think those high expectations can be reasonably met atm. Again, I think the better value is offered in the $300-800 tv range right now.

If you're debating between a 4k TV vs HMD I don't know what to tell you. A HMD might be a better value & have more readily available information when setting up games/troubleshooting. I don't know enough about HMDs to have an opinion. If I can play most games via 3rd party plugins at 3D on an HMD in 1080p+ for <$500 I'd be really tempted. Don't know if that's possible though. And don't know how much of a PITA it would be to set up. I keep hearing how awesome VR is, but I can't find any reliable info about porting old games to HMDs. If you can, then it's awesome (to me), but I couldn't find anything that said it could reliably be done. So I'd rather be able to play my backlog at 4k, & possibly/hopefully 3D. If the perfect HMD existed for <$600 I'd definitely try it & probably buy it over a comparable 4k TV. Don't know how that'd work out for productivity-focused users though.

Hugeee thank you to everyone who has shared all their infomation about 4K tvs on HF/OCN/AVS etc. It's been a wealth of information, really made TV shopping feel a lot more secure. If you're just beginning to think about a 4k TV, check out rtings. It's a great centralized location to familiarize yourself with manufacturers' product lines, differences between 2014-2017, and get one continuous stream of reviews over the last few years of changes.
 
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Zarathustra[H]

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Is there a guide to getting games running in 3D with a Samsung active 3d 4k tv? I have been looking at tridef & Nvidia 3DTV Play. So far I can get 3D to work: desktop appears 3D, & Nvidia Control Panel test image works. But when I start a game, it will look like it's running in 3D mode (two overlapping pictures), but when I put the glasses on it remains 2 overlapping pictures. It does not appear 3D.
I've never tried, but chances are you won't like it. With the HDMI2 bandwidth going to the screen, you'd max out at 30hz, since it only has bandwidth for 60hz, and every other frame is used for the left and right eyes.
 

0996451

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Finally found a working 20' 4k 60hz 4:4:4 cable, Monoprice's $15 "Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR, 20ft Black". Didn't have luck with Amazon Basics, or KabelDirekt 25'. It's really thick, & I would've preferred 25' but it works & is cheap. Monoprice also has a good selection of wall mounts.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Finally found a working 20' 4k 60hz 4:4:4 cable, Monoprice's $15 "Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR, 20ft Black". Didn't have luck with Amazon Basics, or KabelDirekt 25'. It's really thick, & I would've preferred 25' but it works & is cheap. Monoprice also has a good selection of wall mounts.

That's great information!
 

markm75

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Does the instructions in the first thread also apply to the Samsung 6290 series 4k tv?

I tried to follow the guide, but some of the menu options are missing..

For instance, switching to PC mode.. I ended up going with HDMI1/DVI and then turning game mode on.. unclear if there are other settings to make the pc image better or not.. its pretty solid though, but maybe not as sharp as my M series 4k tv in terms of text, but colors seem much more vibrant for some reason (on the samsung).

Also, for my nvidia 1080 card.. i ended up switching to RGB from 4:4:4, which seemed odd to me, but better for some reason. (using an active DP to HDMI cable)
 

Lateralus

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For instance, switching to PC mode.. I ended up going with HDMI1/DVI and then turning game mode on.. unclear if there are other settings to make the pc image better or not.. its pretty solid though, but maybe not as sharp as my M series 4k tv in terms of text, but colors seem much more vibrant for some reason (on the samsung).
After you enabled Game mode, did you adjust the sharpness slider from 50 to 0? A sharpness value of 0 in Game mode is equal to 50 in PC mode and provides the best sharpness / clearest text.
 

markm75

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After you enabled Game mode, did you adjust the sharpness slider from 50 to 0? A sharpness value of 0 in Game mode is equal to 50 in PC mode and provides the best sharpness / clearest text.
yep, i did this in fact.. here are my settings:
I switched on game mode in the settings, left the input set to HDMI/DVI (switching to PC looked not so great, washed out)..

Picture Mode: Game
Backlight 20
Brightness 47
Contrast 91
Sharpness 0
Color 61 (maybe a tad high) (lowered to 54) (61 is visible in the test video below)
Tint G50
HDMI UHD Color set to On
Dynamic Contrast High
Color Tone Warm1
Gamma 0
Color space Native
All other fields are greyed out. I have the latest firmware.
Nvidia at RGB mode, not 4:4:4 (sharper)
 

markm75

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Still confused on the 6290 series.. which is best... leaving it on HDMI1/DVI "mode" or switching the input to "PC".. and also confused on RGB or 4:4:4, whereas RGB + full range seems just as good if not better.

The biggest issue i'm having right now with this tv, is that if you are typing black text on a white background, i can see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back when you stop typing. Its very very slight.. however its more than on my vizio 43 M series tv. Question is.. how to mitigate.. will this be an issue with gaming.. is this input lag / response time or backlight bleedthrough.. if its input lag then thats less desireable obviously.
 

Lateralus

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Still confused on the 6290 series.. which is best... leaving it on HDMI1/DVI "mode" or switching the input to "PC".. and also confused on RGB or 4:4:4, whereas RGB + full range seems just as good if not better.

The biggest issue i'm having right now with this tv, is that if you are typing black text on a white background, i can see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back when you stop typing. Its very very slight.. however its more than on my vizio 43 M series tv. Question is.. how to mitigate.. will this be an issue with gaming.. is this input lag / response time or backlight bleedthrough.. if its input lag then thats less desireable obviously.
When you see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back, does it eventually fade away and/or "catch up" to the current position? From what I remember reading in this thread, input lag is pretty good but the pixel response time is slower than some higher-end sets. If that's the case then you'll notice some trailing and/or "ghost images" as the LCD pixels change states. If I'm correct, then this probably isn't the best set for gaming but may be acceptable depending on your tolerance level. Since I bought mine for office use, I will not be gaming on it and any slowness in pixel transition will not pose a problem for me. It was only $300, so I didn't expect the performance of my JS9000 and was willing to live with the compromises of the lesser hardware.
 

markm75

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When you see the cursor shadow a few keystrokes back, does it eventually fade away and/or "catch up" to the current position? From what I remember reading in this thread, input lag is pretty good but the pixel response time is slower than some higher-end sets. If that's the case then you'll notice some trailing and/or "ghost images" as the LCD pixels change states. If I'm correct, then this probably isn't the best set for gaming but may be acceptable depending on your tolerance level. Since I bought mine for office use, I will not be gaming on it and any slowness in pixel transition will not pose a problem for me. It was only $300, so I didn't expect the performance of my JS9000 and was willing to live with the compromises of the lesser hardware.
Yeah it eventually catches up, after a split second for instance. I'm testing out the Sony 43" today, hoping it fairs a little better.. the response time makes sense as being the culprit.
 

dpoverlord

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Hey guys, I'm having an issue deciding which video setting to use when playing games on Pc, and Xbox or switch.

Typically I go game mode then select game as source but what does everyone else use?

On my Pc I have the source set to Pc when doing basic work then blu-ray when I watch movies but what settings does everyone else use for source and picture mode in options?
 

randyest

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Well I finally went completely nuts and I'm pretty happy with the resulting insanity. I got some really good deals (~$800 each) for two more 48" JS9000's so I set up a 3-way surround. I have two EVGA GTX 1080 FTW's in SLI, and they drive either all 3 at 5760 x 1080 or one at full 4k at ~60fps in everything on ultra or close to it. I think the curve really makes it. You can see my little racing wheel setup there and stuff like Dirt3 and Project Cars are awesomely immersive. Same with ROTTR, GTA V, etc. [That's a Lift desk so I hit '1' and it lowers to match the racing rig, then '2' for regular seated use, '3' for working standing up, and '4' for max height/mucking with cables.]

I know I could have done 1440 and/or 120Hz or or just cheaper 1080 monitors or whatever but this suits me and my old man eyes. I sit pretty far back, and it's nice to be able to watch a 4k movie or youtube occasionally. I really like the image quality; I mostly stay in PC mode 4:4:4 12-bit color/full/RGB with the same basic settings recommended in this thread. It's also handy (but weird) that any one of the 3 remotes turns all 3 monitors on or off, but each controls menus for its own monitor properly. Another odd thing is all of them are on the same OS version (latest, with the new "pseudo-HDR" enabled) but the one on the right has more options in the menus (picture/advanced is not ghosted on it, but is on the other two.)



http://imgur.com/a/pqCTv

One thing that bugs me is that screenbloom doesn't seem to work any more. It used to change the room lights to match the "average" color on the screen, but now with the huge surround it does nothing, even with zones turned on and focused on a small area. The recessed lighting in this room is made of 9 hue bulbs in 3 x 3 and there are 3 Hue strips all around so that's a bummer I'm still working on. Anyone else use screenbloom and have trouble with a big virtual nvidia surround monitor?

If anyone has any questions about getting 3 monitors to work in surround or a specific game and can't find the answer on the widescreen gaming forums feel free to ask me; I've got it all figured out after some trial and error. ;)
 

Lateralus

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Well I finally went completely nuts and I'm pretty happy with the resulting insanity. I got some really good deals (~$800 each) for two more 48" JS9000's so I set up a 3-way surround. I have two EVGA GTX 1080 FTW's in SLI, and they drive either all 3 at 5760 x 1080 or one at full 4k at ~60fps in everything on ultra or close to it. I think the curve really makes it. You can see my little racing wheel setup there and stuff like Dirt3 and Project Cars are awesomely immersive. Same with ROTTR, GTA V, etc. [That's a Lift desk so I hit '1' and it lowers to match the racing rig, then '2' for regular seated use, '3' for working standing up, and '4' for max height/mucking with cables.]

I know I could have done 1440 and/or 120Hz or or just cheaper 1080 monitors or whatever but this suits me and my old man eyes. I sit pretty far back, and it's nice to be able to watch a 4k movie or youtube occasionally. I really like the image quality; I mostly stay in PC mode 4:4:4 12-bit color/full/RGB with the same basic settings recommended in this thread. It's also handy (but weird) that any one of the 3 remotes turns all 3 monitors on or off, but each controls menus for its own monitor properly. Another odd thing is all of them are on the same OS version (latest, with the new "pseudo-HDR" enabled) but the one on the right has more options in the menus (picture/advanced is not ghosted on it, but is on the other two.)



http://imgur.com/a/pqCTv

One thing that bugs me is that screenbloom doesn't seem to work any more. It used to change the room lights to match the "average" color on the screen, but now with the huge surround it does nothing, even with zones turned on and focused on a small area. The recessed lighting in this room is made of 9 hue bulbs in 3 x 3 and there are 3 Hue strips all around so that's a bummer I'm still working on. Anyone else use screenbloom and have trouble with a big virtual nvidia surround monitor?

If anyone has any questions about getting 3 monitors to work in surround or a specific game and can't find the answer on the widescreen gaming forums feel free to ask me; I've got it all figured out after some trial and error. ;)
Holy cow, man. I would love to experience playing a couple of games on that setup. Where did you find the JS9000s for $800?

Also after reading your post I checked my nVidia CP settings and found that I was running RGB + limited dynamic range. I changed it to Full and can almost swear that image quality has improved after the TV went blank to apply the new setting. Could be placebo but I'm liking it so far!
 

randyest

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Holy cow, man. I would love to experience playing a couple of games on that setup. Where did you find the JS9000s for $800?

Also after reading your post I checked my nVidia CP settings and found that I was running RGB + limited dynamic range. I changed it to Full and can almost swear that image quality has improved after the TV went blank to apply the new setting. Could be placebo but I'm liking it so far!

Ebay and Blink, one from each. Prices are up to $9xx now but still a good deal with so many people trying to sell them for $1500-$2000.

I also noticed better color when going to "full". I just changed 8-bit to 12-bit color but haven't had a chance to really compare.

Remember I'm old, slow, and don't see so well so I don,t notice any lag in PC mode, but I do notice the 4:2:2 artifacts or whatever when in Game mode in windows, so I never use it.

If I thought it would work I'd get two more desks and two more monitors and make it even more of a surround. My wife thinks I'm completely nuts. She's probably right but I'm retired at 47, saved a lot of money while working hard at a good job, am doing well in the stock market using robinhood (thanks Trump!) and gaming is one of my favorite things besides eating good food and traveling so why not do it right? I have about $5k in this setup including the desk and the racing rig, and it will amuse me for hundreds of hour. My wife likes to play stuff too (Tomb Raider, demolition mode in FlatOut) so we have fun together wit it.

The crazy thing is it's like 12x the pixels of the 70" "HD" TV we have in the theatre room. I don't think 4k is worth it there since we sit so far back anyway
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Ebay and Blink, one from each. Prices are up to $9xx now but still a good deal with so many people trying to sell them for $1500-$2000.

I also noticed better color when going to "full". I just changed 8-bit to 12-bit color but haven't had a chance to really compare.

Remember I'm old, slow, and don't see so well so I don,t notice any lag in PC mode, but I do notice the 4:2:2 artifacts or whatever when in Game mode in windows, so I never use it.

If I thought it would work I'd get two more desks and two more monitors and make it even more of a surround. My wife thinks I'm completely nuts. She's probably right but I'm retired at 47, saved a lot of money while working hard at a good job, am doing well in the stock market using robinhood (thanks Trump!) and gaming is one of my favorite things besides eating good food and traveling so why not do it right? I have about $5k in this setup including the desk and the racing rig, and it will amuse me for hundreds of hour. My wife likes to play stuff too (Tomb Raider, demolition mode in FlatOut) so we have fun together wit it.

The crazy thing is it's like 12x the pixels of the 70" "HD" TV we have in the theatre room. I don't think 4k is worth it there since we sit so far back anyway

What kind of GPU do you use to drive 3x4k resolutions? :p

My pascal titan is barely enough for just one :p

I like the idea of 12bit color, but in 4k60hz, I have to change the mode from RGB to YbCbCr4:2:0, and when I do that it looks even worse.

HMDI2 just doesnt have enough bandwidth. Once TV's with HDMI 2.1 start coming out maybe this won't be an issue anymore.
 

chorl

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Hi there,

I finally jumped in "Samsung TV as monitor" wagon, and I'm having a bittersweet experience...I opted for Samsung KS7500 (europe designation), because I wanted good HDR experience (I have one PS4 Pro), and curved display.

Picture quality and game immersion is astounding, but I'm hitting several walls, from worse to nightmare:

- My setup is two rigs, one with Win10+nvidia 1080, the other is Hackintosh+nvidia 950. Sometimes (very often, in fact), if I switch from one rig to another, my samsung TV change mode from "PC" to "HDMI1/DVI" on its own, which is rather annoying. Is there any way to "fix" PC mode in those two sources (HDMI1 and HDMI2).

- I know Samsung TVs are not monitors, but is truly annoying swtich on/off TV every time I sleep my rig...I may have dodged this with kind of "frankenstein" project which involves a Raspberry Pi and lib-cec, now from my Hackintosh (my day-to-day rig) if I enter sleep mode, TV shuts down, and when I wake up it turns on by itself...But it's quite of a hack...

- My worst issue is regarding Hackintosh, every time I switch from Mac to the other rig, my hackintosh freezes..It's odd because it started happening from several weeks to now...But I think this is related to hackintoshes, so I don't expect fixing it soon.

Thanks to OP and everyone in this thread, I think this road is worth the time, but it's a rough one...
 

Zarathustra[H]

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Hi there,

I finally jumped in "Samsung TV as monitor" wagon, and I'm having a bittersweet experience...I opted for Samsung KS7500 (europe designation), because I wanted good HDR experience (I have one PS4 Pro), and curved display.

Picture quality and game immersion is astounding, but I'm hitting several walls, from worse to nightmare:

- My setup is two rigs, one with Win10+nvidia 1080, the other is Hackintosh+nvidia 950. Sometimes (very often, in fact), if I switch from one rig to another, my samsung TV change mode from "PC" to "HDMI1/DVI" on its own, which is rather annoying. Is there any way to "fix" PC mode in those two sources (HDMI1 and HDMI2).

- I know Samsung TVs are not monitors, but is truly annoying swtich on/off TV every time I sleep my rig...I may have dodged this with kind of "frankenstein" project which involves a Raspberry Pi and lib-cec, now from my Hackintosh (my day-to-day rig) if I enter sleep mode, TV shuts down, and when I wake up it turns on by itself...But it's quite of a hack...

- My worst issue is regarding Hackintosh, every time I switch from Mac to the other rig, my hackintosh freezes..It's odd because it started happening from several weeks to now...But I think this is related to hackintoshes, so I don't expect fixing it soon.

Thanks to OP and everyone in this thread, I think this road is worth the time, but it's a rough one...

I was annoyed with having to turn the TV on and off with the remote at first as well, but I got used to it, and now I barely even notice that I'm doing it anymore. It's just become second nature.

The other issues I've never had. Have you made sure the TV has the latest firmware?

Granted, my use is different. I only ever use one input, my PC, switched between PC mode and Game mode.
 

chorl

n00b
Joined
Feb 3, 2017
Messages
3
I was annoyed with having to turn the TV on and off with the remote at first as well, but I got used to it, and now I barely even notice that I'm doing it anymore. It's just become second nature.

The other issues I've never had. Have you made sure the TV has the latest firmware?

Granted, my use is different. I only ever use one input, my PC, switched between PC mode and Game mode.
Thank you very much for the info.

Even using only one input, have you ever faced the issue regarding "random switch from PC mode to HDMI1"? I mean, if you put your rig to sleep, and wakes up, I sometimes have my source changed from "PC" to "HDMI1"...Weird...
 

Zarathustra[H]

Official Forum Curmudgeon
Joined
Oct 29, 2000
Messages
29,629
Thank you very much for the info.

Even using only one input, have you ever faced the issue regarding "random switch from PC mode to HDMI1"? I mean, if you put your rig to sleep, and wakes up, I sometimes have my source changed from "PC" to "HDMI1"...Weird...
Hmm, I've never had that, but I have also disabled sleep mode on my main rig. At 4.8Ghz it is perfectly stable, except for the fact that it never wakes up from sleep, so I disabled all sleep modes years ago.
 

alaricljs

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 6, 2011
Messages
287
Even using only one input, have you ever faced the issue regarding "random switch from PC mode to HDMI1"?
I've got a JU6700 and run both Linux and Windows. I can consistently get a "new" set of TV settings by changing the output from the PC in a large enough way, but with the same basic settings switching OS didn't change anything.

For instance, I had my PC totally set up the way I wanted it but I was stuck at 30Hz since I hadn't gotten a working cable for 60Hz yet. As soon as I got 60Hz up and running I had to run through the settings on the TV again. When I switched to Windows and set it to 60Hz I got the same setup that I had just made while Linux was running.

I've not had it change on its own however, it's always been due to changes to the output from the PC.
 

randyest

n00b
Joined
Jun 7, 2014
Messages
21
There has to be a solution to this: For a while I could put my PC to sleep and it would wake up with all the monitors in surround just like I left them. Now, either power off or sleep causes the driver (?) to forget everything. Windows will come up on a random monitor, then I have to :

1. Open NVidia control panel
2. Enable SLI/Surround
3. For some reason be foreced to kill the StickyNotes and iCloud Services processes to proceed
4. Enable and configure suround, rearrange the monitors
5. Usually at least once have to turn off the computer entirely and repeat steps 1-5. Sometimes 2 or 3 times.

I'm on a fully updated Windows 10 home with the latest video drivers and nothing special (other than two 1080 FTW's in SLI and three 48" monitors.)

Has anyone else had this issue? It's not a deal breaker because I don't reboot or turn off much, but it it is a massive hassle if I get a windows update or something and am in a hurry to get something done on the PC.

I'm with "Vinod" on Nvidia support chat right now and he's taking an awful long time to respond but if I figure anything out I''ll share it.
 

Ficus86

n00b
Joined
Apr 14, 2017
Messages
1
It might be a little off topic, but since it could be a TV issue and you look like experts :D I registered in this forum.

Tl;dr: Using Steam in-home streaming, if I use TV as client’s monitor, the streamed game stutters and I get the "slow display" message. If I cap game at 45 fps, it doesn’t stutter anymore.

This is my streaming setup (I am streaming with Steam in-home streaming feature):

Desktop PC (Host) -> Laptop PC (Client) -> TV (Client's monitor).

Some additional information:

- host and client are connected through a 1 gigabit ethernet wired connection
- client output signal is through a DisplayPort and the TV input is an HDMI port. Therefore there is a DisplayPort-HDMI adapter between the client and TV
- TV is a Samsung 60JU6800 set to either PC or gaming mode (I tried both) to get low input delay
- laptop is a HP Elitebook 8460p: Intel i7 2620M (2.70 GHz), AMD HD Radeon 6470M, 8 GB Ram

If I stream from Desktop to Laptop only (i.e. I do not use the TV as a monitor), there are no streaming issues.

If I attach TV to the laptop and use it as a monitor, after like 10 seconds of streaming going fine, the game freezes for a second, and the it stutters heavily (and I get the slow display message):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/90z8a2gbpbuznp7/Ori_and_the_Blind_Forest-_Definitive_Edition_%28387290%29_04-13-17_22-51-02.zip?dl=0

If I take a screenshot, the screen freezes for like a second (as it is saving the screenshot), and after that the game streams smoothly again (you can see it from the red line graph in the bottom right of the screenshot):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zoj0mg0czny9hg3/Ori_and_the_Blind_Forest-_Definitive_Edition_%28387290%29_04-13-17_22-51-11.zip?dl=0

After like 10 seconds, it stutters again (until i take another screenshot).

I tried to limit the fps on the Host PC to 45, and the stutter never happens:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7lijp5hkn9p5c6z/Ori_and_the_Blind_Forest-_Definitive_Edition_%28387290%29_04-13-17_23-47-23.zip?dl=0

Almost a year ago, I successfully streamed using TV as a monitor at 60 fps (but with a different Client laptop).

(I do not know the technical names) To me, it looks like at 60 fps the buffer gets overloaded and after that the TV can't handle the stream until the buffer gets emptied again (for example by taking a screenshot).

Do you have any idea how could i solve this (apart playing at low fps :D)?
 

cageymaru

Fully [H]
Joined
Apr 10, 2003
Messages
19,841
I bought a 50" 6300 series Samsung TV and today at 9 PM it got really dark. I don't have Night Mode enabled in Display Settings for Win 10 64 Creator's Update. Moving my mouse didn't seem to disable the sudden darkening of the screen. It was a gradual thing that lasted over a period of 5 - 7 seconds I suppose. I restarted the PC but didn't restart the TV and all is well again. Should I be concerned and take this TV back to Walmart?
 

Okashii

n00b
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
2
I bought a 50" 6300 series Samsung TV and today at 9 PM it got really dark. I don't have Night Mode enabled in Display Settings for Win 10 64 Creator's Update. Moving my mouse didn't seem to disable the sudden darkening of the screen. It was a gradual thing that lasted over a period of 5 - 7 seconds I suppose. I restarted the PC but didn't restart the TV and all is well again. Should I be concerned and take this TV back to Walmart?
Check your TV's Eco setting and make sure ambient light detection or similar is off.
 
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