LG 48CX

Adapter plates should be fine. I have mine mounted on a 100x100 -> 300x200 adapter on a monitor arm so going from larger mount to smaller will be no issue.

nice. i was under the impression that those plates were to adapt a larger tv to a smaller mount, not the other way around.

though i suppose in hindsight, it should work in either direction. i just have a curved tv so its got big standoffs on it. for some reason i was thinking those standoffs would have to be used with the new tv too.
 
Any recommendations for a (flat-ish) height adjustable wall-mount with a swing arm (90 deg)? That way I could use the CX for double duty as a PC/gaming monitor on my desk and for watching TV on the dining table.. but I'd need it to have a gas lift or something..
 
Any recommendations for a (flat-ish) height adjustable wall-mount with a swing arm (90 deg)? That way I could use the CX for double duty as a PC/gaming monitor on my desk and for watching TV on the dining table.. but I'd need it to have a gas lift or something..
https://vivo-us.com/collections/tv-new-collection/products/mount-vw03g

ive been using one of these for years now. stupid easy to move the tv around when i need to work behind it.

and according to the manufacturers response on amazon, this one will actually accept the native 300x200 mounting dimensions

https://vivo-us.com/collections/tv-new-collection/products/mount-g400b
 
So messed with custom res with my AMD 5700xt today. It actually has a 3840x1620 as a built in option non custom. Also tried 3840x1600 both at 120hz all worked fine. Booted up a few games and it just works. F14FFE73-8FF0-44B3-921C-162CED707535.jpeg7A312E21-E6AE-420A-853F-D71B0A08374D.jpegF8CFEB55-8E3F-4191-ADA7-828C029B5956.jpeg2475A398-5D42-4DD9-A40A-6EDA6FC57E9E.jpeg68B871A9-062C-49FE-A993-6C972AC62D60.jpeg
 
If your frame rate graph never drops near or below 40fps and you cap it at around 117fps... v-sync should never activate. That would mean either monitoring your framerate and dialing your setting in until your entire frame rate graph throughout that game's gameplay never goes near 40fps and lower for a particular game, or playing games with a high enough frame rate that would never drop that low to begin with.

I'm not saying that going outside of the VRR range of the TV is what is causing the reports of LG CX g-sync/VRR stutter, but similar stories were also reported when free-sync displays with limited ranges first showed up and people were running frame rate graphs that spilled outside of the margins.

Of course you should be able to use v-sync and paint outside of the lines but when you do it would revert to v-sync and input lag. That should do so cleanly but perhaps that is causing stutter issues on the LG CX (or off of a 3000 series gpu anyway) like the early free-sync monitors had.

I'd be interested to hear if people were running the same frame rate ranges and if they were within the margins of 40 to sub 120 fps/Hz or not when they experience stutter or don't experience stutter. I'm also recalling how people often say that OLED's extremly fast response time lacks the sloppiness of LCD rates and trasitions so any issues with going outside of the VRR range could be being made much more obvious.
 
Currently Gsync OFF, Vsync ON and FPS capped at 119 is much smoother / better. Try it.
Capping fps below the refresh rate with Vsync on will result in the fps being halved. Unless your TV is running at 119 Hz instead of 120 Hz and the game runs at a locked 119 fps. In which case any frame drops below 119 fps will result in fps being halved with Vsync on.
 
Capping fps below the refresh rate with Vsync on will result in the fps being halved. Unless your TV is running at 119 Hz instead of 120 Hz and the game runs at a locked 119 fps. In which case any frame drops below 119 fps will result in fps being halved with Vsync on.

Not with triple buffering which 99% of games seem to have enabled by default these days.
 
Capping fps below the refresh rate with Vsync on will result in the fps being halved. Unless your TV is running at 119 Hz instead of 120 Hz and the game runs at a locked 119 fps. In which case any frame drops below 119 fps will result in fps being halved with Vsync on.

That's definitely not what happens with G-Sync and V-Sync on in NVCP.
 
Sorry if this has been answered...

Is there a way to alter when the TV will automatically turn off after no use? I looked in power saving, but I think that just adjusts the brightness of the screen?

Mine are powering down a bit too quickly for me. I'd like to have them stay on for 30 minutes, which is what I have it set to in my PC's power options.
 
I want to replace my Alienware 34” with this however I keep stopping before I pull the trigger due to being scared about burn in and these little issues you guys are going through. Last night I was readying most people were saying the new firmware and driver fixed everything however now maybe it isn’t.
I replaced my Alineware 34" with this and could not be happier. I am using a 2080Ti since I cannot find a 3080 or 3090 so I am not taking advantage of some features, but it is a great display.
 
I replaced my Alineware 34" with this and could not be happier. I am using a 2080Ti since I cannot find a 3080 or 3090 so I am not taking advantage of some features, but it is a great display.

Thanks for the reply. I’m in the same boat. I sold my Titan XP and couldn’t get a 3080 or 3090. Bought a EVGA 2080 Super Ultra FTW3 and jumped on the step up program. Looking to upgrade my display and was very interested in this screen.
 
i got a replacement 3080 and i get very occasional black screens wondering if this could be the CX firmware (VRR is off, still on 3.10.44) or ongoing issues with 30xx cards, i havnt seen it happen outside of games yet. i got the CAC-1371 cable, not much choice otherwise
 
There is still some question whether the PCB design and RF noise is a problem on the 3000 series as opposed to some manufacturer's cheaping out on the capacitor array being the only problem.... (and driver workaround and clocking trying to cover up for it). If it is a bigger problem than just the capacitors, it's possible models with a pcb revision could happen eventually (maybe 2021?). However since the asus cards did not cheap out on the capacitor array and as far as I know they didn't exhibit any issues at higher clocks, that sounds encouraging for later released premium tier cards like the one I'm interested in from gigabyte.

So it might not be a bad thing if you weren't able to get the first round of default 3080s, especially if they weren't asus. I don't know about the first 3090 models either but it seems the first round of 3000 cards sold were all reference.
 
There is still some question whether the PCB design and RF noise is a problem on the 3000 series as opposed to some manufacturer's cheaping out on the capacitor array being the only problem....
The other capacitors being cheap is bad information started by talking heads on youtube. There are pros and cons to each capacitor and cheapness isn't one of them.
 
Ok, cheap or not - the talk was that they chose a cap configuration that asus did not, and afaik the asus cards didn't exhibit any issues at higher clocks while the other manufacturer's cap configuration on their cards did. Either that or there is an issue on all of the reference cards that requires a slight downclock via the updated driver?

Another quote from that thread:
"
If you'd listened to the video, he said it made around +40MHz OC stable by replacing TWO full SP-CAP with TWO arrays (that's 20) of MLCC's. This is around what every generation previous also had with cap-modding, so nothing exclusive to the 30 series, nor indicative of any particular issue that would result in any crashing, especially at stock, like people have reported. Removing two SP-CAPs (not POSCAPs...) resulted in a loss of ~60MHz of headroom, so his +70 core OC was no longer stable. Then adding TWO arrays (not one) of MLCCs brought it up to a +100 core OC being stable, while 120 still crashed. So comparing 6x SP-CAP to 4x SP-CAP 2x MLCC he got a whopping +30 MHz OC with MLCC over SP-CAPs.

Undoubtedly the problem was the aggressive brief boost to 2070MHz+ that made the crashes, as he outlines in the video. The driver was supposed to fix this, and it seems it has for a lot of people.

but still the higher clock was not stable. It's not that outlandish to assume that some (not all) models that have a factory-OC AND 6 POSCAPs/ SPCAPs are prone to not being stable.

The new driver is effectivly a minimal downclock to bring those cards under the threshold where they would crash.

So again I'm wondering how the non-reference premium cards (with premium default clocks) will operate, and what the limits are between drivers, factory overclocked models, and manually overclocking (non-reference 3090 models in my case, specifically).
 
Ok, cheap or not - the talk was that they chose a cap configuration that asus did not, and afaik the asus cards didn't exhibit any issues at higher clocks while the other manufacturer's cap configuration on their cards did. Either that or there is an issue on all of the reference cards that requires a slight downclock via the updated driver?
Tests on Linux did not reproduce these issues, making it a driver problem. So we sit and wait :/
 
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If it is a card driver issue then we know nvidia will fix it eventually. If its a tv issue then it could be longer.
 
I'm going to assume driver related issues with Ampere since it seems like TV's connected to Turing cards cannot replicate this behavior. If it was TV related then surely it would've affected all cards and not just Ampere? I'm still rocking a 2080 Ti because I haven't been able to get my hands on Ampere and have had no stuttering issues. Also, what bot programs have you guys been using to snag your cards. Try as I may I've had zero luck for over 2 weeks now LOL :LOL: :(
 
I didn't mean to confuse the issue. Someone was complaining about not being able to get their hands on a 3080 or 3090 in order to utilize their LG CX fully and so I said they might be better off having not been able to find a reference card in stock since there was talk of a capacitor (or other PCB/design) issue that made the reference cards crash at high clocks. There was apparently a driver update that did a slight downclock.. well, that capped the cards slightly lower to avoid the crash ceiling. I have concerns regarding whether the premium tier cards with factory overclocks and also manual overclocking of premium tier cards would be affected by the card's design and/or by driver workaround limitations.

This is separate nvidia issue from the reported 3000 series stuttering at high FPS-Hz on the LG CX.
 
If you guys can, you should test out your Ampere cards on a seperate Gsync or Freesync/Gsync compatible display and see if you get the same problem there. Might help in narrowing down whether or not it is indeed a driver issue.
 
If you guys can, you should test out your Ampere cards on a seperate Gsync or Freesync/Gsync compatible display and see if you get the same problem there. Might help in narrowing down whether or not it is indeed a driver issue.

Would be nice if somebody with an Acer X27 could chime in. I regret selling mine now.
 
I'm going to assume driver related issues with Ampere since it seems like TV's connected to Turing cards cannot replicate this behavior. If it was TV related then surely it would've affected all cards and not just Ampere? I'm still rocking a 2080 Ti because I haven't been able to get my hands on Ampere and have had no stuttering issues. Also, what bot programs have you guys been using to snag your cards. Try as I may I've had zero luck for over 2 weeks now LOL :LOL: :(

I paid the scalper tax twice. Traded my 2080ti FE + Cash for a 3080 Ventus, then a week later traded the 3080 Ventus + Cash for a 3090.

I could have saved some money and waited till next year, but at the rate things are going we will be playing Fallout 5 "Real Life" sooner than later.....soooooo shame on me.... Can't......Can't get fooled again!

1601940998288.png
 
I paid the scalper tax twice. Traded my 2080ti FE + Cash for a 3080 Ventus, then a week later traded the 3080 Ventus + Cash for a 3090.

I could have saved some money and waited till next year, but at the rate things are going we will be playing Fallout 5 "Real Life" sooner than later.....soooooo shame on me.... Can't......Can't get fooled again!

View attachment 285907

Congrats!
 
Do you have a LG C9 or know someone that does? Just a quick update to this thread as some of you have the LG C9. I received a call today from LG asking me if I would like to enter into their public test for the beta software / firmware fix to address the compatibility issues with the LG C9 and the nVidia RTX 3xxx series cards. I of course said yes. The firmware cannot be rolled back and will be updated in the bear future. He asked for my wired MAC address on my LG C9 and I gave it to him. He said I will get the update within 5 days. So, pretty excited about that.

Several LG C9 owners received the same call and or was added to the public software test thru chat help.

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/20...aming-thread-consoles-and-pc.3123168/page-125
 
Got my 3080 yesterday, and can only conclude what is already known; 4:2:2 displayed even though the gpu can send 4k/120/rgb/10bit signal.
Works well enough for now with instant game response off and vsync i guess - still beats the previous 4:2:0.
 
1601959666190.png


^^^^^^SWEEET BABY JEEBUS THIS WORKS FOR MY CX!!!


Got my 3080 yesterday, and can only conclude what is already known; 4:2:2 displayed even though the gpu can send 4k/120/rgb/10bit signal.
Works well enough for now with instant game response off and vsync i guess - still beats the previous 4:2:0.

Download the Korean Firmware..... Full RGB 10bit 4k120 is now working!
 
EDIT: Cancel this, I got beaten to the news! ^^^^^^^

People with 30series over on Overclock.net are reporting they read somewhere on avsforum that if you ENABLE Gsync, DISABLE GSYNC on the TV specifically (uncheck "Enable settings for the selected display model"), and ENABLE VRR in the Windows display settings...the supposed 30series HDMI 2.1 VRR frame pacing issues are fixed. I don't have a 30 series to confirm/deny.
 
Got my 3080 yesterday, and can only conclude what is already known; 4:2:2 displayed even though the gpu can send 4k/120/rgb/10bit signal.
Works well enough for now with instant game response off and vsync i guess - still beats the previous 4:2:0.
Does the screen not go black occasionally with 444/RGB? What cable do you have I can't see any that are actually certified
 
EDIT: Cancel this, I got beaten to the news! ^^^^^^^

People with 30series over on Overclock.net are reporting they read somewhere on avsforum that if you ENABLE Gsync, DISABLE GSYNC on the TV specifically (uncheck "Enable settings for the selected display model"), and ENABLE VRR in the Windows display settings...the supposed 30series HDMI 2.1 VRR frame pacing issues are fixed. I don't have a 30 series to confirm/deny.

I've been going nuts trying to solve this issue but lemme give this a try and report back.
 
i have another weird issue since getting the 3080, if i start my pc before turning the cx on i just get no signal

my friend said his cx got an update yesterday so they are rolling the firmware out to uk users, pretty annoying since he's still waiting for his 3080
 
Does somebody have a picture of a CX from the bottom - without the stand mounted?

I need to build a custom "stand", but I can't find any useful pictures..
 
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