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Teh Uber L33t Aqua-Computer Thread :)

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tbooth said:
I did get an aquajet as well, and depending on where I put my radiator I will hopefully be mounting it vertically at the top of my case. Also got a couple LED modules (red and white). I hope the aquajet effect plus the LEDs will be as cool as I imagine it. :) Thanks for the pics. :cool:
This will be the major reason for an Aquaero. You can set the LED's in the AquaTube to glow brighter or dimmer based on temp sensors connected to it. You could have the white LED on 100% and red maybe 25% when temps are normal and have the red LED go to 100% and the white turn off when it reachs a certain temperature. That is just one of the things you can do with an Aquaero. This thing is very advanced and from what I have seen of the new software, blows all LCD/VFD units away.
 
Vlad335 said:
Everyone says that BIB will out perform AC. Granted, it seems this is true but by how much? Nobody knows? However, I do see posts that a DD system vs. AC will not translate into higher overclocks. How is this out performing the Aqua-computer gear then? Isnt overclocking the reason the performance crowd is using water?

I don't think a review is pointless. It needs to be done and we need to see how these systems stack up by a non biased reviewer. I would like to see the [H] do this.

I was on the Xoxide forum a couple months ago and suggested that maybe they carry AC and got absolutely flamed by everyone including the moderators. Basically their mindset is any system that uses less than 12mm tubing is total shit! Some real jagoffs over there.

I developed an interst in watercooling when I started to see the AC stuff a couple of months ago. Lets face it. Looks are important to many people who watercool. I'd say 95% of the watercooled cases I have seen have side windows and lights. Why is that? So they can tell and show everyone they are watercooling computers. Be honest with yourselves. Personally, I have an Aquatube in an Aquabay with an LED. How is this enhancing my performance? ;)

Wouldn't it be interesting if the big bore stuff didn't really outperform AC?
The "mainstream" big bore stuff most likely will not outperform AC by more than 1-2c and the overclocking would remain the same. This is what I found when switching from DD and DTEK stuff to AC.

When you look at blocks from Cathar, you will see not only better temps, but better overclocks. Cathars blocks are built and designed for a reason.
 
This will be the major reason for an Aquaero. You can set the LED's in the AquaTube to glow brighter or dimmer based on temp sensors connected to it. You could have the white LED on 100% and red maybe 25% when temps are normal and have the red LED go to 100% and the white turn off when it reachs a certain temperature. That is just one of the things you can do with an Aquaero. This thing is very advanced and from what I have seen of the new software, blows all LCD/VFD units away.

Damn, that is sweet. I really like the look of the Matrix Orbital MX 6 PLED display better than the Aquaero, but I don't know of any software available for it that would allow for this kind of functionality. I will definitely keep an eye on the Aquaero. Any chance of a PLED version? :D
 
tbooth said:
Damn, that is sweet. I really like the look of the Matrix Orbital MX 6 PLED display better than the Aquaero, but I don't know of any software available for it that would allow for this kind of functionality. I will definitely keep an eye on the Aquaero. Any chance of a PLED version? :D
I dunno,,,,, I just read the review at madshrimp and couldn't find anything that really set the PLED apart from a VFD. The only real knock on VFD was the "heat" but mine stays room temperature. The viewing angle with the VFD seems inline with the PLED and you have full control of brightness and contrast with the VFD. Hard to find anything major between the two other than the Matrix has a vinyl cover and the aquaero has a stainless steel cover.
 
I dunno,,,,, I just read the review at madshrimp and couldn't find anything that really set the PLED apart from a VFD. The only real knock on VFD was the "heat" but mine stays room temperature. The viewing angle with the VFD seems inline with the PLED and you have full control of brightness and contrast with the VFD. Hard to find anything major between the two other than the Matrix has a vinyl cover and the aquaero has a stainless steel cover.

I like the plainness of the aluminum covered MX630 and the green glow of the display is just cool. I havent really seen any good pics of the VFD Aquaero, have any handy? :)
 
tbooth said:
Damn, that is sweet. I really like the look of the Matrix Orbital MX 6 PLED display better than the Aquaero, but I don't know of any software available for it that would allow for this kind of functionality. I will definitely keep an eye on the Aquaero. Any chance of a PLED version? :D

Who knows? However A-C does make a less expensive LCD version of the Aquaero and they make an even less expensive LT version that is an Aquaero minus the display and mount. An enterprising modder might be able to put a PLED display on the Aquaero LT as the interface is a socket arrangement (no soldering). And I should note that I think the LCD version of the Aquaero uses a Matrix Orbital display.

Here is the link to the most recent Aquaero English manual.
 
Vlad335 said:
Wouldn't it be interesting if the big bore stuff didn't really outperform AC?
But it can't. A PROPER DIY unit chose correctly will outperform AC with smaller tubing and smaller pumps, there is no disputing physics. However, the OC difference as you say, may be minimal to nothing. That does not mean that one does not COOL better than the other.
 
nikhsub1 said:
But it can't. A PROPER DIY unit chose correctly will outperform AC with smaller tubing and smaller pumps, there is no disputing physics. However, the OC difference as you say, may be minimal to nothing. That does not mean that one does not COOL better than the other.

You get one point ;) and a Gold Star for the day! That is exactly what we have been talking about. The difference in the real world is ZIP between A-C and the BIB. So why put yourself through all that hassle? 1/2" tubes are a major pain to get where you want them to. A nice happy medium is 3/8" which the A-C system can accomodate. In fact you can easily run 6mm, 8mm, or 10mm tubing without a lot of hassle.
 
Aviddigi said:
...Also pics will be up soon of my brand new never in the USA aqua_ _ _ _ _ _ , i cant tell you about it but its cool and is fresh off the boat ( plane ) from germany.

Come on dude....quit screwing around and post the pics ;) We all want to see the new Aquastream or whatever it is you have. It isn't nice to trifle with the Aqua Master :eek:
 
Aviddigi said:
...Also pics will be up soon of my brand new never in the USA aqua_ _ _ _ _ _ , i cant tell you about it but its cool and is fresh off the boat ( plane ) from germany.


:( :confused: :( :confused:
 
Anyone know about anodizing? Can I get the silver color anodizing stripped off my Aquatube? I want to have it clear anodized so I get a real aluminum look. :D
 
Top Nurse said:
Anyone know about anodizing? Can I get the silver color anodizing stripped off my Aquatube? I want to have it clear anodized so I get a real aluminum look. :D

you could always sand it to a mirror finish, like those shuttles with the mirror finish cases. it'll take time do sand, though.
 
Top Nurse said:
Anyone know about anodizing? Can I get the silver color anodizing stripped off my Aquatube? I want to have it clear anodized so I get a real aluminum look. :D

soak it in lye, like red devil lye pipe declogger. It's shelved with all the other "liquid plumber" type products at hardware store. Red devil is crystals, you put a tablespoon in a container of warm to hot water, stir until disolved, then drop in the part. It will bubble up. Every minute or so use a SOFT brush to clean and wipe off the part so that the solution eats away the anodizing uniformly. Takes 5- 10 minutes. after it's done rinse it off the soak it in a WEAK, diluted solution of viniger. Rinse that off.Volia' :D

but know this: there is no, "clear" anodizing, as it will dull your part. What anodizing is , is an electroplating type process that "grows" a layer of aluminum oxide on the suface of the part. This layer is by nature absorbant until sealed by heat or chemical process. Until sealed it will absorb dyes, and that is how it is colored. Sealing without dyes is what is your, after, just know that it wont be a "shiney" silver, but a dull, off gray/white. maybe using a polishing compound will help. Good luck. :)
 
I have seen clear anodizing before so what is the process they used on my Lian-Li case? When cutting through the case today there appeared to be a hard clear surface that after going through it there was normal aluminum style chips. I want to ditch the silver color and have a "clear coat" process that will match my Lian-Li case. Or would I be better off trying to get an unanodized Aquatube from A-C and doing the clear anodizing here in the USA?
 
Top Nurse said:
Come on dude....quit screwing around and post the pics ;) We all want to see the new Aquastream or whatever it is you have. It isn't nice to trifle with the Aqua Master :eek:

Aquamaster LOL i dont think your username was top HASSELHOF, when everything is ready i will post pics until then as i was told in the military "sit around and wait" it is not even that big of deal lol
 
Aviddigi said:
Aquamaster LOL i dont think your username was top HASSELHOF, when everything is ready i will post pics until then as i was told in the military "sit around and wait" it is not even that big of deal lol

Sorry if I was getting rude :) I just hate waiting around as you have me in suspense about something I might really want. ;) I sometimes use that "Aqua Master" title as a tongue in cheek way of saying something important lol.
 
Got the Aquatube in the middle case floor of my V2000B case Sunday along with two out of the three rads going in :D The third rad is a 120mm BI Pro and it looks like I will be doing some serious cutting to get it where I want it. Pic's later today...
 
What do you guys think about splitting up this thread into some smaller more manageable threads? It is getting difficult for people to find anything due to the size of this thread. :(

Thought perhaps the following separate threads all referenced to each other on the first post of each thread:

Aqua Computer General

Aqua Computer Pumps

Aqua Computer Aquaero

Aqua Computer Video Coolers

Aqua Computer NB and CPU coolers

Aqua Computer Reservoirs

Aqua Computer Case Mods

These are just some ideas off the top of my head. Interested to hear what others might think good or bad. Or should I forget the whole thing? ;)

Added: Forgot to mention that I asked the moderator if it was possible to have a separate Aqua Computer Forum a few days ago, but haven't heard anything back yet.
 
Top Nurse said:
What do you guys think about splitting up this thread into some smaller more manageable threads? It is getting difficult for people to find anything due to the size of this thread. :(

Thought perhaps the following separate threads all referenced to each other on the first post of each thread:

Aqua Computer General

Aqua Computer Pumps

Aqua Computer Aquaero

Aqua Computer Video Coolers

Aqua Computer NB and CPU coolers

Aqua Computer Reservoirs

Aqua Computer Case Mods

These are just some ideas off the top of my head. Interested to hear what others might think good or bad. Or should I forget the whole thing? ;)

Added: Forgot to mention that I asked the moderator if it was possible to have a separate Aqua Computer Forum a few days ago, but haven't heard anything back yet.
Good idea.... Lets hope the mods agree.

WARNING TO BUYERS

After a few very heated posts (pages of posts to be honest) on the SNT-systems forum regarding the lack of response to customers asking for credit on product never shipped, the entire SNT store and forum is now broken. I don't know if this is a sign of things to come for SNT or if the server simply crashed. edit - the site is up with no response from Dan over the issues.

What is came down to is a few customers got tired of waiting upwards of three months for product already paid for but never delivered. With repeated requests for re-payment on product never shipped, they were getting either no answer or just lip service. With two customers asking for almost $2,000.00 in payment I assume Dan can not come up with the money. Dan has had almost three weeks to address the HUGE concern customers have over his ability to respond and provide services/product paid for in advance.

With all of this happening, I can not recommend anyone place an order with SNT until the level of service is up to what we customers expect. In the meanwhile, www.sharkacorp.com is not only stocking product, but ordering on a regular basis. Since I have not only ordered and received product from sharka as well as personally know Wes, I must say they are the only US etailer to offer Aqua Computer products.
 
Come on guys, we need some input on this thread disbursement. My thoughts:

If it ain't broke don't fix it.... (yes/no)

It is broke and lets fix it..... (yes/no)

It is broke and who cares..... (yes/no)

TN go find something else to do.... (yes/no)
 
So what happens if he were to do a total flash by holding down the set button for longer than five (5) seconds? I think you told me once that this puts the flash back to it's unprogrammed state like in a brand new Aquaero correct? If he were to do this then would the update software work properly?
No, that won't work.


If he has to send it back to Germany to have the OS reinstalled why can't you send the software to do it so he can save the time, hassle, and $$? Flashing EPROM's and flash memory isn't all that big of a deal
That is not possible because you also need a special connection cable (not for sale) for the 20-pin socket (Aquabus) and several software tools which are not for free. You also have to set some parameters before flashing and if you do something wrong your aquaero is really death :rolleyes: And some of these parameters are a bit critical like serial number etc.

I had a LAN-Party over the last weekend and Sebastian was there too. He flashed my Aquaero from OS 2.02 to 2.03. The whole think takes less than 5 minutes but you should really know what you are doing there. He did some things here and there in the software tools and I had no idea what he was doing but it worked :)

btw: we got a nice demonstration of the multiswitch. That think will let your dreams come true :cool:


Any chance of a PLED version?
No chance. That was already discussed at AC. The lifetime of OLED/PLED displays is still too short. These displays also have the problem that they have a burn-in effect like old CRT monitors.
 
Not sure if anyone is interested in knowing this but if you need to create an G1/8" 90degree hose barb for use on the Aquajet it can be done with parts from McMaster -Carr.

Yes TopNurse I gave up on Parker ... they are denser than usual lately.

You can use PT #4860K431 "90degree female" and PT# 4860K601 Hex nipple; to create a 90 to put the supplied 10MM hose barb into to create a 90 degree.
 
Shoggy said:
btw: we got a nice demonstration of the multiswitch. That think will let your dreams come true.

Is there a demo DL? Or did they demo at your LAN party? When can I get one? :D
 
Nobody said:
Not sure if anyone is interested in knowing this but if you need to create an G1/8" 90degree hose barb for use on the Aquajet it can be done with parts from McMaster -Carr.

Yes TopNurse I gave up on Parker ... they are denser than usual lately.

You can use PT #4860K431 "90degree female" and PT# 4860K601 Hex nipple; to create a 90 to put the supplied 10MM hose barb into to create a 90 degree.

Hey thanks for the info! Posterity will love you :cool:
 
So Top nurse that would be 4860K653 on Mcmaster? Not sure if I want to use them, but it is nice to have the stuff laying around when build time comes.
 
Top Nurse said:
Is there a demo DL? Or did they demo at your LAN party? When can I get one? :D
VIPs only :p

Demonstration was at the LAN party.
 
badash said:
So Top nurse that would be 4860K653 on Mcmaster? Not sure if I want to use them, but it is nice to have the stuff laying around when build time comes.

Yes that is the one! Also good to keep in mind where these bushings are because there are so rads out there that use 3/8 BSPP. :)
 
Does anyone know if the Aqua Drives can be easily stacked on top of each other? If so how about 3?
 
Shoggy said:
btw: we got a nice demonstration of the multiswitch. That think will let your dreams come true :cool:

Could you elaborate a little more?

I keep hearing about this device being in the works but I have no idea what it is. What is this "multiswitch"? What does it do? Why would I want one?
 
Top Nurse said:
Does anyone know if the Aqua Drives can be easily stacked on top of each other? If so how about 3?

Yes they mount like any other bay device dvd drives etc.
 
Aviddigi said:
Yes they mount like any other bay device dvd drives etc.

Not what I meant (hic-up....burp) What I meant was are they stackable on top of each other if I decided to rip out the HDD racks on my V2000 and put my Raptors in the dual Aquadrives. Like three duals all in one stack?
 
Yellowsnow17 said:
Could you elaborate a little more?

I keep hearing about this device being in the works but I have no idea what it is. What is this "multiswitch"? What does it do? Why would I want one?

You don't want one unless you have an Aquaero. The Multi-Switch is a device that is attachable to the heretofore unused AquaBus port on the Aquaero circuit board. It allows the Aquaero to control up to 8 independent on-off switches per Multi-Switch. So say you wanted a siren and a flashing red light to turn on when your temps got critical you could easily setup the device to initiate a signal to the Multi-Switch to turn that item on. Get the picture? From what I understand you can control several Multi-Switches per Aquaero AquaBus port. So in truth the possibilities are as endless as your imagination. :p
 
Top Nurse said:
You don't want one unless you have an Aquaero. The Multi-Switch is a device that is attachable to the heretofore unused AquaBus port on the Aquaero circuit board. It allows the Aquaero to control up to 8 independent on-off switches per Multi-Switch. So say you wanted a siren and a flashing red light to turn on when your temps got critical you could easily setup the device to initiate a signal to the Multi-Switch to turn that item on. Get the picture? From what I understand you can control several Multi-Switches per Aquaero AquaBus port. So in truth the possibilities are as endless as your imagination. :p

Luckily I do own and Aquaero. :p This definately sounds like a versatile piece of hardware that I'd like to buy. Can each individual switch be operated manually in addtion to being tripped during a certain event? (like what you outlined above) Make sure Wes orders a few when they are released. I wonder if the multiswitch works if the computer is turned off and the Aquaero is running off of the +5VSB line as outlined in the Aquaero manual. I always thought it would be cool to have some "access" lights at the rear of my case around the I/O shield and the expansion bays. I'd put a few superbright white LED's back there and turn them on if I need extra light when working behind my case. It'd be a bonus if I could wire them into the multiswitch and have them be available if the main system power is off. :cool:
 
Hmmm.... I don't know as this has only been talked about until the version 4.05 firmware became available recently. They evidently had the Multi-Switch and the Tube Sensor done, but it was unusable until the Aquaero could run the version 4 firmware and use the AquaSuite software. So I expect this stuff to be available fairly quick. I already told Wes to get me 2 of the Tube Sensor's and a couple of Multi-Switches. I would be suprised if he didn't order at least 10 of each. :D

Shoggy please jump in and enlighten us with your knowledge of this stuff
 
It is my understanding that several items listed below will not be coming anytime soon, if ever, from where they were originally ordered from:

4 each of a SilentStar HD Dual

one Cuplex EVO A64 Blue

Several AquagraFX 6800 rev 2 coolers

Several AquagratiX 800/850 combo coolers

Some Watercool G 1/4 valves # 16703

A couple of Xeon? # 12613 neXXXos covers

If you know about these items and still want them please PM me and I will see what I can do to see that you can still get them in a reasonable time frame. No guarantees, but I will try to help out where I can. :)
 
Well, I can't tell you that much. They would kill me :rolleyes:

Only one tip: forget everything you have heard or seen about the Multiswitch :cool:
 
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