Teh Uber L33t Aqua-Computer Thread :)

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[S]nt|Mods

Limp Gawd
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Due to the other thread getting locked which had been my intention for a while I have decided to start the buzz up again. Please, lets try to keep this on topic and I ask everyone to please ignore certain individual(s) that may post here as much as possible. Again, I am not posting here to "advertise for sales" of SNTsystems or Aqua-Computer components. Please post any decent material related to the topic, pictures or whatever.

The floor is now open for discussion. :D

-Dan
 
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On that aquastream 12V pump, is it correct that it is equivalent to a eheim 1048 in terms of flowrate? I know it's supposed to be the 12v version of the 1046, but I thought I heard somewhere that it's performance is nearly as good as the 1048.
 
yes,,,, the 12vdc model is about the same as the 1048.

Will post new and improved pics here very soon!
 
Does anyone have a resistance-pressure curve for the aforementioned 12V pump? It would be interesting to see how it performas against other pumps' known specs.
 
what overclock (if any) is that computer running?

also, why are the two top fans used as intakes?
 
zer0signal667 said:
Does anyone have a resistance-pressure curve for the aforementioned 12V pump? It would be interesting to see how it performas against other pumps' known specs.
Click to expand...

I can see what info I can squeeze from Aqua-Computer on this one.

-Dan

Giblet Plus! said:
what overclock (if any) is that computer running?

also, why are the two top fans used as intakes?
Click to expand...

The FX-53 s939 at stock speeds run at 2400MHz, my very mild overclock to 2525MHz is just for the sake of doing something. Im waiting on the arrival of the Rev. 2 Asus A8V which will include a chipset that can actually lock the PCI/AGP frequency at 66/33. The Beta BIOS that is currently available on the net is not stable at all and Im not willing to try to up the clockspeed just so I can roast a Raptor or two. The Ballistix, if you are wondering also, are running all day and night at 2-2-2-5-9-16 without any burps from Mem Tests. I like this stuff. :D

I kinda wanted the freshest and coolest air possible cooling off my radiator. Why would I want to exhaust the air inside the case when there's not much of a rising heatsource anyways? I thank the aluminum Lian Li PC 6070b and the two exhaust fans I have outback above the I/O for the interior cooling.

The exhausting temp of the water from the Airplex Evo 240 is just a few points (.4-.6) above my ambient air temp and the "intake through the radiator" air temp probe I have installed in the fins of the radiator. I would refer to these as ideal conditions for great cooling to take place.

I would also love to thank the Aquaero for being such an awesome piece of ass, errrrrrr, I mean hardware. :D

-Dan
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
I would also love to thank the Aquaero for being such an awesome piece of ass, errrrrrr, I mean hardware. :D
Click to expand...

SOMEBODY GET THIS MAN A GIRLFRIEND STAT!



sorry couldn't resist
 
Giblet Plus! said:
SOMEBODY GET THIS MAN A GIRLFRIEND STAT!
sorry couldn't resist
Click to expand...

LOL no kidding ea.

Hey dan, so you have the 2 on top as intake fans then? That answers my earlier question about pushing or pulling air. I thought you were pulling the air as exhaust fans. LOL.
 
I would have to say that it doesnt really matter if we place our fans in push or pull fashion on our small scale use of fan/radiator combos. On my Twisted AC rig I have the fans in intake pull form since I have space constraints between the side panel and the video card and the fittings would get in the way otherwise. The Sick Rig has them in intake push trim just because I only wanted cooler air to come in instead of exhausting the warm air from the case. I already have fans that do that anyways.

For those who would like a definition of what push and pull refer to in these cases.....

Push trim: The fan(s) suck in the air as if it/they were installed on top the radiator and "push" the air across the radiator fins.

Pull trim: the fan(s) suck in the air as if/they were installed below the radiator and "pull" the air across the radiator fins.

-Dan
 
This is progressing nicely...I'll post updated pics of my setup as soon as I get a couple things worked out...and the pictures taken.
 
well dan, i think its safe to say that you'll be hearing from me in a couple of months hopefully, when i near completion of my machine. I'm going to start out with the high end kit with cpu block and add on from there. one question, how do the plug&cool fittings work?

I love that case by the way. thinking about changing over to a lian-li
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
Im waiting on the arrival of the Rev. 2 Asus A8V which will include a chipset that can actually lock the PCI/AGP frequency at 66/33. The Beta BIOS that is currently available on the net is not stable at all and Im not willing to try to up the clockspeed just so I can roast a Raptor or two.
-Dan
Click to expand...

Your not referring to the two Raptors I have gone through with the same board? :( Losing your AGP/PCI lock while running 255 x 10.5 is not a good idea, IMHO

Damn Asus

btw: what happened to fallguy? :confused:
 
What kind of case is that?? I need one STAT!! Oh and I will be purchasing some of the aqua stuff...has a nice look to it.
 
Jabroni31169 said:
What kind of case is that?? I need one STAT!! Oh and I will be purchasing some of the aqua stuff...has a nice look to it.
Click to expand...

And it performs very well too! :D
 
Giblet Plus! said:
also, why are the two top fans used as intakes?
Click to expand...

I do the same with mine and did not see any temp difference versus it being the exhaust.
Both running about 5vdc makes them pretty much silent; which is my main goal in watercooling.

ACPic3.jpg
 
R1ckCa1n said:
Your not referring to the two Raptors I have gone through with the same board? :( Losing your AGP/PCI lock while running 255 x 10.5 is not a good idea, IMHO

Damn Asus

btw: what happened to fallguy? :confused:
Click to expand...

Errrrr.......no, it was.......someone else that raped their Raptors........ :D

Also, seems that Fallguy fell off the end of the world when the Database decided to throw shit at itself the other day. He's trying to get the "Admin" to fix his account if it still exists at least.

-Dan
 
Jabroni31169 said:
What kind of case is that?? I need one STAT!! Oh and I will be purchasing some of the aqua stuff...has a nice look to it.
Click to expand...

The case is a Lian-Li PC6070b, good luck on your search for one and at a good price. Just Google around for some reviews and you'll find that it's an awesome case for both cooling and to limit noise output. I had to get mine through my hardware distributor here in the San Jose area but I could probably "hook you up" with one.

-Dan
 
dan, what did you get your case for? I've seen a lot of them for sale online (pretty sure they were in stock too). I'm thinking about looking into the aluminum one, but i've always been a big fan of black (2 cars, a/v equipment, computer)
 
minus81 said:
dan, what did you get your case for? I've seen a lot of them for sale online (pretty sure they were in stock too). I'm thinking about looking into the aluminum one, but i've always been a big fan of black (2 cars, a/v equipment, computer)
Click to expand...

I had to order it from a local distributor to get a hold of one and since Im a retailer I had a chance to get one through the wholesale channel. If you were definitely interested in getting one I could see what I can do and since I dont deal in hardware other then water cooling stuff very often I'd be able to get one for you at a good price.

-Dan
 
R1ckCa1n: I was looking EVERYWHERE for a pic of your aquajet in action for [post=1026591111]my thread[/post] about my next WC project. It woulda helped everyone see how awesome that AC Res is.

Anyway, have you ever mounted that thing with the plexi top facing front instead of up? If so, does it still have the same effect? I'm planning to mount mine front facing and I hope it doesn't show a "gap" in the water level so-to-speak.

I'm really looking forward to giving SNT some of my money ;)
 
I think I saw a picture once where someone had their aquatube mounted vertically, but most seem to display it horizontally on the front of the case....I think having it mounted on the top beside the radiator would be cool too though.
 
WarlordBB said:
Anyway, have you ever mounted that thing with the plexi top facing front instead of up? If so, does it still have the same effect? I'm planning to mount mine front facing and I hope it doesn't show a "gap" in the water level so-to-speak.
Click to expand...

The jet provides a "cascading" water effect against the front plexi window but the water level has to be lower than the jet. It's best to leave the water level at about 2/3 - 3/4 for this to take place and look sexy. :) You'd have to install the Aquajet on the upper of the 3 fitting locations, this is how I have mine.

-Dan
 
I've seen the case for $150-$200 online, but I wouldn't mind getting a good deal on one.....I will be giving you some good business hopefully later on this year (building kind of slow). I was just going to buy a micro atx and mod it into an external w/c piece, but I think I'll just get a bigger case that has room for everything.
 
[S]nt|Mods said:
but the water level has to be lower than the jet. It's best to leave the water level at about 2/3 - 3/4 for this to take place and look sexy. :) You'd have to install the Aquajet on the upper of the 3 fitting locations
Click to expand...

Not sure I'm following you there. Maybe a pic from my thread will help:

aquatube_front.jpg


I'm talking about installing it like Pug from Bit-Tech has installed his above. So you mean that in that case, the water level would have to be below the top most hole of the bottomside of the aquatube and the aquajet would be installed in that top most hole?

Hmm, I was hoping to have it centered but now that you mention it, it makes sense that the aquajet can't cause cascading if it's underwater.

Just out of curiosity, what does it look like with it centered but with the tube mounted like above if you've tried this? Also, can the aquajet, LED mod AND a temp probe all live together on an aquatube? (and without looking getto)
 
WarlordBB said:
Just out of curiosity, what does it look like with it centered but with the tube mounted like above if you've tried this? Also, can the aquajet, LED mod AND a temp probe all live together on an aquatube? (and without looking getto)
Click to expand...

I havent installed the Jet in the middle location on my tube but I just took a quick 10 second AVI of mine in action. Download it here, hopefully you can see it but its real hard to record water moving down plexiglas. :p You can install your tubing, a temp probe, the aquajet and the LED without it looking ghetto. If you wanted to use Plug&Cool fittings throughout the system you can move the water temp probe elsewhere by using a t-fitting like I did on Sick Rig.

Also, the Plug&Cool fittings are very easy to use and are more likely not to leak when compared to barbed fittings. The hose is simply inserted past the resistance (inner locking ring) into the chamber of the fitting and a tight seal is formed. To remove the hose all you have to do is push the outer sleeve ring towards the chamber and you can then free your hose.

-Dan
 
Well, I thought since I was going with 3/8" ID (like my current SwiftTech kit comes with) I _HAD_ to use the 10mm barb fittings with the AC stuff. I'd LOVE to use quick connects...

Edit: Just watched the vid, thanks. It seems your system has the water level at like 1/3 whereas the pic above (Pug's install) seems to be about 2/3. Is this right? Could you post a picture with your water at rest and maybe that would clear things up.
 
I'm going with with the plug&cool fittings. sounds like they'lll work pretty well. I'm now looking at putting it all in the lian-li pc-71.
 
WarlordBB said:
Well, I thought since I was going with 3/8" ID (like my current SwiftTech kit comes with) I _HAD_ to use the 10mm barb fittings with the AC stuff. I'd LOVE to use quick connects...
Click to expand...

The Plug&Cool are only meant for use with 6mm ID/8mm OD fittings. You can still use any inline water temp probe for elsewhere within your loop though or just use a P&C fitting just for that single temp probe on the res.

-Dan
 
WarlordBB said:
Edit: Just watched the vid, thanks. It seems your system has the water level at like 1/3 whereas the pic above (Pug's install) seems to be about 2/3. Is this right? Could you post a picture with your water at rest and maybe that would clear things up.
Click to expand...

The water is at about 3/5 full actually but I really should fill her up again a bit soon. Its been a few months now since I first filled the system and the ambient temps have removed some of the water throughout this past summer.

-Dan
 
I'm starting to get concerned about my choice to use 10mm barbs since I've read several threads recently where the guys were using clamps but getting leaks and then changed over to various compression/quick connects and life was good again.

Is is really that hard to get the barb/clamp thing right?

I'm already disappointed with the look of the clamp thing compared to the sexy compression or quick connects but I just don't know if I'm ready to go all out 6mm/10mm. Plus I'm really pretty set on the D4/MCP650 pump which is already going to have to have a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer.

I'm so confused...
 
WarlordBB said:
I'm starting to get concerned about my choice to use 10mm barbs since I've read several threads recently where the guys were using clamps but getting leaks and then changed over to various compression/quick connects and life was good again.

Is is really that hard to get the barb/clamp thing right?

I'm already disappointed with the look of the clamp thing compared to the sexy compression or quick connects but I just don't know if I'm ready to go all out 6mm/10mm. Plus I'm really pretty set on the D4/MCP650 pump which is already going to have to have a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer.

I'm so confused...
Click to expand...

Even as an "advocate" for the Plug&Cool and other quick disconnect type fittings I can honestly say that they are just more, errrrrrrrr.........."idiot proof." BUT, if you use the correct size barbs with the correct size hose and use a good clamp you should be fine. Most people play inside their case all to often and things get touched and pulled which just begs for the possibilty for a leak to occur. Your are just reading most of the "horror stories" of those who these sad events happened to. Just like the evening, mid-day and even the morning news, you never get to hear (in our case read) about the good experiences.

-Dan
 
WarlordBB said:
R1ckCa1n: I was looking EVERYWHERE for a pic of your aquajet in action for [post=1026591111]my thread[/post] about my next WC project. It woulda helped everyone see how awesome that AC Res is.

Anyway, have you ever mounted that thing with the plexi top facing front instead of up? If so, does it still have the same effect? I'm planning to mount mine front facing and I hope it doesn't show a "gap" in the water level so-to-speak.

I'm really looking forward to giving SNT some of my money ;)
Click to expand...

I did a small vid of my Aqua Jet in action a few months ago, Link.

Warlord, I use the 3/8" barb, and no clamp. With the 3/8" Tygon Im using, I feel pretty safe about it. I leak tested it for about 2 weeks before putting any PC parts in it. I tried to pull the tubing off of the barb, and I literally had to slice the tubing to get it to come off. I couldnt just pull it off.. pretty secure.
 
Thanks fallguy, I'm going to go with the 3/8" barb and Tygon then.

Actually, don't you mean the 10mm barb since that's the only other option with the AC parts. I realize that 3/8 = 0.375 and 10mm = 0.393 which is virtually the same, just making sure I'm not missing something.
 
Yeah you are correct. I just used the 3/8" term I guess because thats the size tubing I used.
 
I hope y'all don't think I'm jacking this thread with a discussion about my wants/needs but, unless I hear differently, I'm thinking my questions are OT. So here's another one: :)

You don't know how many times I've filled up a cart at SNT over the past week just to wind up back here with more questions. It typically goes like this:

"but I _know_ I want the Aquatube so I should go ahead and get at least that"

"ok, so do I need 10mm barb or quick connects, clear mounting or brushed alum........"

Anyway, the Aquatube is, a Res so...

How do you fill it if you are going to mount it front facing? It's my understanding that the top/front acrylic thing comes off, you fill it up then screw it back on.

Do I just hold it upright till it bleeds then screw it back on and mount it?

Edit: Alternatively I guess I could mount it then use one of the not need holes to attach a temporary hose to use as a fillport so-to-speak.

Hmm...
 
WarlordBB said:
I'm starting to get concerned about my choice to use 10mm barbs since I've read several threads recently where the guys were using clamps but getting leaks and then changed over to various compression/quick connects and life was good again.
Click to expand...

I have been using the barbs for a good two months with no problems, and I use tygon tubing as well. The 3/8" ID with 1/16" wall works very well.
 
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