New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Mako360 said:
Thanks Brahmzy, both in PC and Game modes?
Click to expand...

I've never used game mode as that's all about input lag reduction. I find the PC mode's input lag to be just fine for me. Game mode should have no bearing on PWM/strobing/pixel response/blur.
 
WorldExclusive said:
So the TV should know whether or not you have a HDMI 2.0 compatible source? Not possible.
It's a TV that has to be set, unlike a monitor that runs in 4:4:4 natively.
Click to expand...

EDID provides display specs so the video card/source knows what signal it can provide. Announcing that the display supports 4:4:4 color is no different than that it also does 4k resolution.

Maybe it's to address whatever bug in some video players but otherwise it makes no sense to deny that it can show full chroma at 4k.
 
Ziran said:
Yes lowering the contrast works for dimming purposes. You can run with back light 20 and constrast 50. That is similar to back light 10 and contrast 90
Click to expand...

It's good to know it ramps the white levels linearly and doesn't just cut off the top or whatever. Using contrast (ie the panel) to reduce brightness instead of the backlight is hardly ideal (for black level) but at least it works.
 
Cyph said:
Okay, so I broke down and exchanged my 6500 for 7100 because I had to find out the difference. For a little over a dollar a day, I just cannot go on living having the blur bother me. =) Let me know what you guys want to test, and I'll try my best. It's going to have to be tomorrow though.

Things I noticed, the glossy does reflect more when the screen is black. No two ways about it, but when the screen has pictures and/or games on, there is very little reflection! If there are light sources, however, you do see it, but it looks very similar to light source reflections of the semi-gloss. Colors on the glossy, is very impressive. Black is, unbelievably black. It is blacker than my F8500 Plasma! Incredible!

The 19 degrees is the same as the 178 degrees on the Bl3200. On the BL3200, colors start to fade at around 19 degrees as well. There is no difference between the measured 19 degrees that Rting measured and the advertised 178 degrees of the Bl3200 and SD32. They both starts to fade at 19 degrees, but the viewing angle is extremely good (albeit a little faded) all the way to 178.

UHD color is adjustable on all 4 inputs.

Here is the big one... PWM is NOT the same as a normal monitor. It is a hybrid, meaning the "on" pulse is much longer than the "off" pulse. If you have a camera, test it out on the J6500/J6700. There are only three pulse on my camera when I set my camera to 1/100, however the "on" pulse is fat and gigantic, and the off "pulse" is thin. Therefore, I believe this is a hybrid PWM system.

The pulse looks like this [ ON ][ON]. Notice how the off is much smaller than on, and the on is much longer than the off? At 20, it's one continuous blur [ ON ]. If someone have a SLR that can be set at 1/100, please try it on your JU6500, 7100. At 1/25 shutter speed, the line is one continuous blur. If it's anything like the 7100, even if the PWM is 120, the on state is longer than the off state. It's a hybrid system. At shutter speed of 1/25, level 10 back light is almost one continuous blob. At 20, it's continuous. At backlight 15, at shutter 1/100, it's two pulse, one thin one, and one thick, which is strangely not consistent.

If the PWM on the J6500/6700 is anything like the 7100, I don't think 120 PWM is that bad, as the backlight stays on much longer than it's off. Hopefully somebody who is much better at testing for PWM can confirm. I'm inclined to believe that the backlighting on these new 2015 panels is a more advanced form. The motion blur is not as pronounced on the 7100, that's confirmed, for sure.
Click to expand...

That's how PWM works. It goes from 100% of time on to 0% on. The shutter speed of your camera makes no difference. The backlight setting controls what % of time it's on and thereby how bright it is. Any side effect is worse closer to 0%.

Also blur isn't necessarily a bad thing. Computer generated images/"video" have the general deficiency of lack of motion blur that real cameras capture. If anything the PWM eye strain issue stems from the lack of image persistence.
 
SixFootDuo said:
Personally, you're splitting hairs ( inches ) The 48" is actually 47.5" or a hands width more vs. a 40" or so. Use the 48" along with it's 4K for several weeks and I promise you will not go smaller in panal size or resolution ever again .

Going back to 1080p after using 4K is like finding a youtube video on a subject dear to your heart only to realize it's 240p in resolution. Something like that.
Click to expand...

When you put it like that it seems to trivialize the difference, though. The difference IRL definitely feels like MUCH more than a hand's width, no matter what the measurements say. That's apparent by having each of them in front of your face for a few days at a time, lol.

You're right about the resolution, though. I don't think there's any way back from 4K. Using my 1080p monitors at the office now is painful. Having dual monitors makes things somewhat better but I could be so productive with a 4K at work.
 
I'm really liking "Sports Mode" for gaming. It's nice that it has a dedicated button on the remote as well.
 
SixFootDuo said:
I have zero blur on my 6500 and Im getting hella frames per second in BF4
Click to expand...

You're lucky if you don't notice it or it doesn't bother you. The 6500/6700 is a fantastic TV/monitor.

Agent00F said:
That's how PWM works. It goes from 100% of time on to 0% on. The shutter speed of your camera makes no difference. The backlight setting controls what % of time it's on and thereby how bright it is. Any side effect is worse closer to 0%.

Also blur isn't necessarily a bad thing. Computer generated images/"video" have the general deficiency of lack of motion blur that real cameras capture. If anything the PWM eye strain issue stems from the lack of image persistence.
Click to expand...

The conventional wisdom is that low PWM = bad. The reason I mentioned it's a hybrid system is that, instead of having 10 pulses like this I I I I I I I I I I, the Samsung has the "on" pulses longer than "off" like this [On] [------ ON ------ ] [On] which at 1/25 appears to be a PWM of 75, even less, since the first on and last on state is part of the other 1/25 sec, it's actually less than a PWM of 75. However, is that a bad thing? The fact that the backlight stays on longer means it's closer to continuous.

What I'm getting at is this, if we only count the number of on or off state to calculate PWM, then we're doing a disservice to Samsung's PWM system. If the backlight stays on longer, of course the pulse number will go down.
 
Last edited:
I'm really liking the glossy panel. The only way I can describe it is this, imagine the Apple Cinema display without the distracting reflection. When the panel is off, you can definitely see a muted mirrored reflection. However, once it's on, there is actually less reflection than the semi-gloss. Truly cutting edge stuff that's light years ahead of anything in the computer monitor space which is still using matte panels from 20 years ago that destroys contrast, colors, and light output.

I'm sure Apple will eventually get their hands on these.
 
Cyph said:
I'm really liking the glossy panel. The only way I can describe it is this, imagine the Apple Cinema display without the distracting reflection. When the panel is off, you can definitely see a muted mirrored reflection. However, once it's on, there is actually less reflection than the semi-gloss. Truly cutting edge stuff that's light years ahead of anything in the computer monitor space which is still using matte panels from 20 years ago that destroys contrast, colors, and light output.

I'm sure Apple will eventually get their hands on these.
Click to expand...

So you have the 7100 now? Glad you mentioned Apple Cinema. That's the kind of gloss I've wanted in a monitor ever since I saw one of them. Do the colors pop more on this one than the 6500? Are the blacks more inky?

I know this is subjective, but are you noticing a 400 dollars worth of improvement on the TV? Which is the better value in your opinion?
 
TDSlam720 said:
So you have the 7100 now? Glad you mentioned Apple Cinema. That's the kind of gloss I've wanted in a monitor ever since I saw one of them. Do the colors pop more on this one than the 6500? Are the blacks more inky?

I know this is subjective, but are you noticing a 400 dollars worth of improvement on the TV? Which is the better value in your opinion?
Click to expand...

Colors do pop more, but the 6500/6700 is no slouch. Blacks are inky black. Like I said, I have an F8500 plasma, and when viewing Hard Forum, I think the blacks are blacker than plasma because the plasma has a sort of semi-gloss finish. The F8500 for sure is more reflective. I should also add that if the screen is black, you do see reflections in the black, but not in brighter colors.

As for is it worth it, it's difficult to say. Is a Lexus LS better than a Lexus IS? Is a GTX Titan X better than a GTX 980? Is Gsync worth 200? As you move up in features, there are diminishing returns, so you can't say you spend 40% more, you'll get 40% improvements. You'll get improvements and it's up to you on whether it's worth it. I have 30 days to decide but I"m leaning toward keeping it. If I use this for 5 years, it's 20 cents, a day, if I use it for one year, it's about a dollar a day. I guess it depends on your financial situation and how much you value money vs your daily experience.
 
Cyph said:
Colors do pop more, but the 6500/6700 is no slouch. Blacks are inky black. Like I said, I have an F8500 plasma, and when viewing Hard Forum, I think the blacks are blacker than plasma because the plasma has a sort of semi-gloss finish. The F8500 for sure is more reflective. I should also add that if the screen is black, you do see reflections in the black, but not in brighter colors.

As for is it worth it, it's difficult to say. Is a Lexus LS better than a Lexus IS? Is a GTX Titan X better than a GTX 980? Is Gsync worth 200? As you move up in features, there are diminishing returns, so you can't say you spend 40% more, you'll get 40% improvements. You'll get improvements and it's up to you on whether it's worth it. I have 30 days to decide but I"m leaning toward keeping it. If I use this for 5 years, it's 20 cents, a day, if I use it for one year, it's about a dollar a day. I guess it depends on your financial situation and how much you value money vs your daily experience.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.


"If I use this for 5 years"... Haha sure.. keep telling yourself that. See you in 2 years when there's a 50 inch OLED for 1200
 
TDSlam720 said:
Thanks for the reply.


"If I use this for 5 years"... Haha sure.. keep telling yourself that. See you in 2 years when there's a 50 inch OLED for 1200
Click to expand...

It will become a bedroom TV so yeah, it will be used for 5 years at least. And you're right, I'm itching for the OLED or Quantum Dot display at 40."
 
So I have Auto Power Off set for 4 hours. At 3:59:xx, the message appears that the display is going to turn off within xx seconds unless I select the OK button to override it. Which I've done twice, but it turns off anyway, lol. Anyone else seeing that? Firmware bug maybe?
 
As far as I can tell the Youtube app doesn't do 4k. You'd think it would.

Also, I asked this before, the UltraFlix people insist that I should have their app as long as I have the latest firmware, but I don't seem to. Does anybody else?
 
Cyph said:
Okay, so I broke down and exchanged my 6500 for 7100 because I had to find out the difference. For a little over a dollar a day, I just cannot go on living having the blur bother me. =) Let me know what you guys want to test, and I'll try my best. It's going to have to be tomorrow though.

Things I noticed, the glossy does reflect more when the screen is black. No two ways about it, but when the screen has pictures and/or games on, there is very little reflection! If there are light sources, however, you do see it, but it looks very similar to light source reflections of the semi-gloss. Colors on the glossy, is very impressive. Black is, unbelievably black. It is blacker than my F8500 Plasma! Incredible!

The 19 degrees is the same as the 178 degrees on the Bl3200. On the BL3200, colors start to fade at around 19 degrees as well. There is no difference between the measured 19 degrees that Rting measured and the advertised 178 degrees of the Bl3200 and SD32. They both starts to fade at 19 degrees, but the viewing angle is extremely good (albeit a little faded) all the way to 178.

UHD color is adjustable on all 4 inputs.

Here is the big one... PWM is NOT the same as a normal monitor. It is a hybrid, meaning the "on" pulse is much longer than the "off" pulse. If you have a camera, test it out on the J6500/J6700. There are only three pulse on my camera when I set my camera to 1/100, however the "on" pulse is fat and gigantic, and the off "pulse" is thin. Therefore, I believe this is a hybrid PWM system.

The pulse looks like this [ ON ][ON]. Notice how the off is much smaller than on, and the on is much longer than the off? At 20, it's one continuous blur [ ON ]. If someone have a SLR that can be set at 1/100, please try it on your JU6500, 7100. At 1/25 shutter speed, the line is one continuous blur. If it's anything like the 7100, even if the PWM is 120, the on state is longer than the off state. It's a hybrid system. At shutter speed of 1/25, level 10 back light is almost one continuous blob. At 20, it's continuous. At backlight 15, at shutter 1/100, it's two pulse, one thin one, and one thick, which is strangely not consistent.

If the PWM on the J6500/6700 is anything like the 7100, I don't think 120 PWM is that bad, as the backlight stays on much longer than it's off. Hopefully somebody who is much better at testing for PWM can confirm. I'm inclined to believe that the backlighting on these new 2015 panels is a more advanced form. The motion blur is not as pronounced on the 7100, that's confirmed, for sure.
Click to expand...

Very cool, mine has not yet arrived, stupid home delivery.
 
Last edited:
Cyph said:
The conventional wisdom is that low PWM = bad. The reason I mentioned it's a hybrid system is that, instead of having 10 pulses like this I I I I I I I I I I, the Samsung has the "on" pulses longer than "off" like this [On] [------ ON ------ ] [On] which at 1/25 appears to be a PWM of 75, even less, since the first on and last on state is part of the other 1/25 sec, it's actually less than a PWM of 75. However, is that a bad thing? The fact that the backlight stays on longer means it's closer to continuous.

What I'm getting at is this, if we only count the number of on or off state to calculate PWM, then we're doing a disservice to Samsung's PWM system. If the backlight stays on longer, of course the pulse number will go down.
Click to expand...

PWM always works like this by definition. That's why it's call pulse width modulation.
 
You guys doing A/B comparisons of the 6500/7100 or 6700/7500 at the same time need to do some YouTube for us to witness the alleged blur, and point out the diffs please.

We don't want placebo "OMG ITS MUCH BETTERS" stuff from those returning one for the other and doing tests a week or more apart...;)
 
Yes, I too am concerned about the placebo effect. I am very skeptical as far as the 7xxx series being better for PC use, since the majority of the extra features and/or upgrades appear to apply to TV/movie content.

But if it is better, then we do want to know so that we can decide if it's worth the extra money. Just need some way to quantify it.

Personally, I haven't had issues with blur on my 6700s, but maybe I'm just not as picky or sensitive to it. So while I am curious about the 7500, I don't know if it would be worth the ~$450 premium. Looking forward to more impressions.
 
No placebo here - I call it like I see it. If the 7xxx isn't better, I'm gladly boxing it up and getting my $1,349 back. I already expect no difference in PWM. However, reviewers have already verified the 7xxx has faster pixel response than the 6xxx. Nothing to placebo about that. How much better? I'll know as soon as I scroll the [H] window and/or fire up BF4. I've been swapping PC gear for too many decades to fall into placebo nonsense.
You are not going to be able to quantify pixel response from what's already been done in the reviews. I can post screenshots of the UFO page, but is that really an accurate depiction? That's already been done. If you can come up with any quantifiable metrics testing that isn't wasting time, I'll be glad to participate, but a lot of it, at this point is going to be personal experience. Gloss vs. semi-gloss, is the degree of blurring 'better enough' to justify the extry $450... *to me*
 
We all are subject to placebo, me, you, everyone.

You guys just do your best, and try to video what you're talking about because unlike pixel response you absolutely CAN video and display ghosting (motion blur) via even a lowball iPhone camera. Plenty of videos on YouTube right now that show it clearly on other older displays, do a seach and you'll see what I mean.

Thanks for the effort too, definitely appreciated.
 
Agent00F said:
PWM always works like this by definition. That's why it's call pulse width modulation.
Click to expand...

So can you explain why 120 PWM with a backlight that is on longer is worse than a 240 PWM with more pulse but less "on" time backlight? In the case of the 7100, the PWM is lower than 120 with a much longer "on" cycle.
 
Mako360 said:
We all are subject to placebo, me, you, everyone.

You guys just do your best, and try to video what you're talking about because unlike pixel response you absolutely CAN video and display ghosting (motion blur) via even a lowball iPhone camera. Plenty of videos on YouTube right now that show it clearly on other older displays, do a seach and you'll see what I mean.

Thanks for the effort too, definitely appreciated.
Click to expand...

I know on PC mode, the auto motion smoothing is disabled. If it's turned on, the blur is not as bad. I'm not sure if game mode has this option enabled, but input lag is added with auto motion smoothing left on. On PC mode, this option is disabled and cannot be enabled.

Try a game like Starcraft on PC mode, and make sure auto motion is disabled. Put a bunch of units on the screen, then scroll around the screen quickly. You should see the jerky motion blur.
 
There is some bad customer reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55J...ll_formats&filterByStar=critical&pageNumber=1

kF1GfKx.png
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Cyph said:
So can you explain why 120 PWM with a backlight that is on longer is worse than a 240 PWM with more pulse but less "on" time backlight? In the case of the 7100, the PWM is lower than 120 with a much longer "on" cycle.
Click to expand...

The higher the frequency, the less chance it has of being seen/perceived by the eye/brain.
This assumes that the rise time of the light turning on to max power is fast enough.
And also the start timing of the group of pulses per screen refresh matches when the screen refresh has been accomplished and possibly also with the timing needed to mask blur.
At 60Hz refresh, a 240Hz PWM will have 4 pulses in a group per refresh.
The mfr should have got this right but it is a potential source of issues.

When the PWM light off period is used to mask LCD blur, it puts a limit on the max frequency of the PWM because a PWM pulse might not be long enough to mask the blur.
It can limit the maximum on period so there is a long enough off period.
This is why brighter LEDs are used for blur masking.

120 and 240Hz PWM will use approximately the same % length of PWM pulse for the same brightness.
The length in time of a 240Hz pulse will be approx 1/2 that of 120Hz to achieve the same brightness. There will be twice as many pulses so the overall on period per refresh is the same.
 
Seinfeld said:
There is some bad customer reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55J...ll_formats&filterByStar=critical&pageNumber=1
Click to expand...

Did you read the reviews?

First bad review was complaining about VA viewing angle. The viewing angle from the side is not as good as the front, we all know that. The guy is probably comparing it against plasma or IPS displays. He must've used a slower shutter setting to get the screen to show up like that. The blacks does not look like that.

Second review said Wifi doesn't work, therefore it's a piece of junk. He said that Samsung confirmed Wifi is defective on all 7100. Gave it one star. It works on mine right out of the box. *shrug*

Third review complained the back of the TV was dirty and that none of the Smart Apps work. Gave it one star.

Fourth review, the guy didn't even buy it. Drive by criticism.

Seriously, if these reviews are true about the 7100, then the JU6500/6700 must be even worse.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Just got my 48JU6500 last week, it's awesome! Thanks to everyone for testing this display.

Any input on Gamma settings? Has anyone measured with a colorimeter?

I'm currently on Warm 2 with Gamma set to -2 and it looks pretty good.
 
Nenu said:
The higher the frequency, the less chance it has of being seen/perceived by the eye/brain.
This assumes that the rise time of the light turning on to max power is fast enough.
And also the start timing of the group of pulses per screen refresh matches when the screen refresh has been accomplished and possibly also with the timing needed to mask blur.
At 60Hz refresh, a 240Hz PWM will have 4 pulses in a group per refresh.
The mfr should have got this right but it is a potential source of issues.

When the PWM light off period is used to mask LCD blur, it puts a limit on the max frequency of the PWM because a PWM pulse might not be long enough to mask the blur.
It can limit the maximum on period so there is a long enough off period.
This is why brighter LEDs are used for blur masking.

120 and 240Hz PWM will use approximately the same % length of PWM pulse for the same brightness.
The length in time of a 240Hz pulse will be approx 1/2 that of 120Hz to achieve the same brightness. There will be twice as many pulses so the overall on period per refresh is the same.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Very educational. So would you say that if the Samsung can use such a low PWM and have the "on" state of the pulse to be that long, the backlight must somehow be direct current controlled? For example, if at backlight 10, there is about 2 pulse of "on" time, with very minimal off time, there isn't much variation between two pulses and one continuous on at 20. I understand that the "width" of the pulse tends to be wider closer to 20. However, there is already a very wide pulse at level 10 versus 20. There's not much more room to change without it being continously on. Yet, there is still 10 levels of differences between 10-20. How does it control the brightness between 10-20 if the "on" state is already very wide at 10? Does it mean that somehow Samsung is controlling the intensity level behind the backlight some how along with PWM?

Normally, with PWM, level 10 should be something like this [] [] [] [], level 15 [ ][ ][ ][ ], and level 20, [------]. This is how the Samsung PWM should be at level 10. However, I'm seeing level 10 as [ ][-----][ ] which is not consistent with how PWM should be.

I thought the reason that higher rate PWM makes it easier on the eye because it more closely emulate a longer "on" time, therefore less on/off state, or flashing. If the "on" state of the backlight stays on longer but with a lower rate of pulsing, doesn't it emulate this same concept?
 
alexand3r said:
Just got my 48JU6500 last week, it's awesome! Thanks to everyone for testing this display.

Any input on Gamma settings? Has anyone measured with a colorimeter?

I'm currently on Warm 2 with Gamma set to -2 and it looks pretty good.
Click to expand...

Interesting - I'm on Warm2 as well and it's almost not warm enough, lol. This is one of the coolest colored displays I've ever had.
 
Cyph said:
So can you explain why 120 PWM with a backlight that is on longer is worse than a 240 PWM with more pulse but less "on" time backlight? In the case of the 7100, the PWM is lower than 120 with a much longer "on" cycle.
Click to expand...

The problem isn't the on time, it's the off time. Lower freq means longer cycle.

I very much doubt 7100 is lower than 120hz. I suspect it's 240hz, or at least 240 when it's in 240 mode.
 
Nenu said:
The higher the frequency, the less chance it has of being seen/perceived by the eye/brain.
This assumes that the rise time of the light turning on to max power is fast enough.
And also the start timing of the group of pulses per screen refresh matches when the screen refresh has been accomplished and possibly also with the timing needed to mask blur.
At 60Hz refresh, a 240Hz PWM will have 4 pulses in a group per refresh.
The mfr should have got this right but it is a potential source of issues.

When the PWM light off period is used to mask LCD blur, it puts a limit on the max frequency of the PWM because a PWM pulse might not be long enough to mask the blur.
It can limit the maximum on period so there is a long enough off period.
This is why brighter LEDs are used for blur masking.

120 and 240Hz PWM will use approximately the same % length of PWM pulse for the same brightness.
The length in time of a 240Hz pulse will be approx 1/2 that of 120Hz to achieve the same brightness. There will be twice as many pulses so the overall on period per refresh is the same.
Click to expand...

I thought the "refresh" (some blur) time is supposedly pretty short.
 
Cyph said:
Thanks. Very educational. So would you say that if the Samsung can use such a low PWM and have the "on" state of the pulse to be that long, the backlight must somehow be direct current controlled? For example, if at backlight 10, there is about 2 pulse of "on" time, with very minimal off time, there isn't much variation between two pulses and one continuous on at 20. I understand that the "width" of the pulse tends to be wider closer to 20. However, there is already a very wide pulse at level 10 versus 20. There's not much more room to change without it being continously on. Yet, there is still 10 levels of differences between 10-20. How does it control the brightness between 10-20 if the "on" state is already very wide at 10? Does it mean that somehow Samsung is controlling the intensity level behind the backlight some how along with PWM?

Normally, with PWM, level 10 should be something like this [] [] [] [], level 15 [ ][ ][ ][ ], and level 20, [------]. This is how the Samsung PWM should be at level 10. However, I'm seeing level 10 as [ ][-----][ ] which is not consistent with how PWM should be.

I thought the reason that higher rate PWM makes it easier on the eye because it more closely emulate a longer "on" time, therefore less on/off state, or flashing. If the "on" state of the backlight stays on longer but with a lower rate of pulsing, doesn't it emulate this same concept?
Click to expand...

Are you sure the off pulses are short relative to on at setting 10? Generally how it would work is the smallest setting is at some smaller % of on (say, 5-20%), and the rest up to max are in between.

What % would you say they're at 10? Is 10 ~half the brightness (maybe their scale isn't linear)? Can you similarly verify how it changes between 1-10 (significant change in pulse width I presume) and 10-20 (little change in width)?

--

Ok, I read your previous posts more careful; it's a bit confusing because the forum SW throws away some of your formatting. So to clarify, on a 7100 you said the PWM isn't straight up On/Off but rather some other kind of pulsing, and that on a 10 setting, the total pulse width(s) isn't anywhere near half. Someone posted photos of the PWM of the 6x00 many pages back (can't find it) and it looked pretty standard.
 
Last edited:
Mako360 said:
You guys doing A/B comparisons of the 6500/7100 or 6700/7500 at the same time need to do some YouTube for us to witness the alleged blur, and point out the diffs please.

We don't want placebo "OMG ITS MUCH BETTERS" stuff from those returning one for the other and doing tests a week or more apart...;)
Click to expand...

Totally agree!
 
Rather than PWM, seems like some sort of duty-cycle (15% off, 85% on, for example), although that could be adjusted via PWM. That's the way it sounds from how he's explaining it, anyway.
 
Okay guys, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here it is:

backlight.jpg


See how fat the pulses are, and 5, 15, and 20 are similar. 10 you can see the three pulses, but they are fat.

By the way, if you have windows or light sources, you will see reflections. In the day time, it is more evident. So my enthusiasm is a bit tempered having seen the reflections in the day time. It's very good, but not as good as last night.
 
What does this picture mean? Can someone go into detail?

I don't have eye fatigue so I'm not getting it. In fact, from what I can see only a few people are talking about it.

Thanks
 
> Rather than PWM, seems like some sort of duty-cycle (15% off, 85% on, for example)

PWM means using duty-cycle to adjust average output.

> See how fat the pulses are, and 5, 15, and 20 are similar. 10 you can see the three pulses, but they are fat.

Do you have photos for assured PWM displays to be sure those are taken correctly? For example, you spoke of using different (and rather fast) shutter speeds which makes no sense. It also makes no sense the 5 setting is smoother than 10, AND the 7100 is claimed to be less "blurred" than the 6700 when it's continuous backlighting which makes the transition blurs visible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top