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Love your socket 754?

man for some reason I want a 3400+ Venice...I was debating when newegg had that combo but now that I decided I want one it gone :( I want it cuz it will run cooler then my newcastle and to play with my system again :p

Anyone wanna sell theirs or trade for a 3400+ newcastle ? :rolleyes:

Or does any plase still have these ?
 
You can still find the Athlon 3400 for sale at Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-AMD-A...ryZ80139QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

There are not nearly as many for sale as a month ago. Do a search for:

Athlon 3400 754

For a screaming Venice core model make sure the part number is
ADA3400AIK4BO

An Athlon64 3000 or 3200 with the Venice core makes a good second choice with the right motherboard.

On the DFI board a cheap Sempron 2800 will reliably overclock to nearly 2700 MHz as well. Just add some juice.

These things are also based on the same Venice core but with 256K cache instead of 512K. The performance difference is minimal and at $40 from Newegg it's pretty hard to go too wrong.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16819104245
 
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It does have great overclocking features but what was giving me a headache is the bios it came with defaulted to 2.5v VDIMM. I rebooted about 40 times getting random (and different all the time) boot code errors before I pulled the lesser stick of memory and managed to post. At 0.3v below spec the other stick just refused to run at all until I raised it. Being the default there wasn't exactly anything I could revert to fix the problem. :p

Should I even bother working my overclock back up gradually or should I shoot straight to the 2.5ghz I was at before? I see that the maximum VCore the board allows is 1.55v. I was stable to around 2.46ghz at the stock 1.4v so I'm hoping for say 2.6 or so. Anything beyond that I'll try and consider a bonus. If I can keep that steady that should be enough for the life/use of this machine.
 
DedEmbryonicCe11 said:
I see that the maximum VCore the board allows is 1.55v.
Click to expand...
Actualy, the voltage regulators on these EPoX boards run high by about 0.05v, the 1.55v setting will actualy give you 1.6v :D

You'll probobly be able to hit 2.6GHz, but lots of people are able to push these chips to 2.7 and 2.8GHz. Good luck!
 
DedEmbryonicCe11 said:
......Should I even bother working my overclock back up gradually or should I shoot straight to the 2.5ghz I was at before? I see that the maximum VCore the board allows is 1.55v. I was stable to around 2.46ghz at the stock 1.4v so I'm hoping for say 2.6 or so. Anything beyond that I'll try and consider a bonus. If I can keep that steady that should be enough for the life/use of this machine.
Click to expand...
If I were you, I would try 11x250 @ 1.55Vcore. I am using the same board and CPU and I am running stable right there. If you'd like to try 11x250 @ 1.525Vcore, go ahead, maybe you'll be more lucky then I was. I 'only' got 5.5hrs of P95 stable with the 1.525Vcore.

Either way, I see no reason in tinkering around at the 2.46G that you were before. Shoot high, and you will most likely still end up above where you were before.
 
Don't bother tip-toeing around. Set it at max and shoot for the moon. 1.6v is nothing for these little monsters.
 
Unknown-One said:
Actualy, the voltage regulators on these EPoX boards run high by about 0.05v, the 1.55v setting will actualy give you 1.6v :D

You'll probobly be able to hit 2.6GHz, but lots of people are able to push these chips to 2.7 and 2.8GHz. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I can testify of this overvoltage with mine as well... Too bad it also limit the voltage from pinmods :(
 
DedEmbryonicCe11 said:
It does have great overclocking features but what was giving me a headache is the bios it came with defaulted to 2.5v VDIMM. I rebooted about 40 times getting random (and different all the time) boot code errors before I pulled the lesser stick of memory and managed to post. At 0.3v below spec the other stick just refused to run at all until I raised it. Being the default there wasn't exactly anything I could revert to fix the problem. :p

Should I even bother working my overclock back up gradually or should I shoot straight to the 2.5ghz I was at before? I see that the maximum VCore the board allows is 1.55v. I was stable to around 2.46ghz at the stock 1.4v so I'm hoping for say 2.6 or so. Anything beyond that I'll try and consider a bonus. If I can keep that steady that should be enough for the life/use of this machine.
Click to expand...

Shoot to the moon and use max voltage to get the most of your cpu ;) Most of us run at 1.5v - 1.6v without any ill effects assuming you get proper cooling (limiting the temp under load at 60C max is the goal you should try to aim).
 
60C isn't too hard to achieve.

On my Artic64 HSF load would creep up a little past 60C (62-63C) but I replaced it yesterday with the 4-pipe AMD FX heatsink and my load temps are barely above 50C now.
 
Alright guys, I need a hand with an RMA. I've determined that my memory controller is the part causing my inability to run two sticks of RAM (currently on a 1GB single stick), so I need to RMA the proc. Problem is, I need a retail HSF, which I threw away a few months ago (unbelievable luck). Is there anyone here willing to sell me their retail HSF? If you've got the little plastic clamshell thingy for the processor that'd be sweet too. I'm more than willing to pay whatever shipping is plus some extra for the trouble (I'm trying to get a 754 HSF specifically, as supposedly they've varied a little over the years).

Help a 754 brother out! :(
 
You need the retail HSF that came with your CPU to RMA it. The heatsink has a sticker on it with the same serial # as that on your IHS, so if they don't match, no RMA.

 
tsuehpsyde said:
You need the retail HSF that came with your CPU to RMA it. The heatsink has a sticker on it with the same serial # as that on your IHS, so if they don't match, no RMA.

Click to expand...

motherfucker....are you serious? I don't remember that sticker...
 
quadnad said:
motherfucker....are you serious? I don't remember that sticker...
Click to expand...

I dunno, Ozzi just told me that's not the case? However, the last retail processor I had definately had a stocker on the fan of the heatsink with a serial # that matched my CPU exactly, and was required for an RMA. But meh, that could have changed in the past year or so, not sure. Last processors I've gotten were OEM.

 
tsuehpsyde said:
I dunno, Ozzi just told me that's not the case? However, the last retail processor I had definately had a stocker on the fan of the heatsink with a serial # that matched my CPU exactly, and was required for an RMA. But meh, that could have changed in the past year or so, not sure. Last processors I've gotten were OEM.

Click to expand...

I bought this 3700+ to replace an old 3000+ clawhammer about a year ago....retail boxed. I really hope you're wrong!

I suppose I'll still look for a retail heatsink and try it out. All else fails, I suppose I could just peel off the serial sticker from the heatsink...
 
hey.

i'm a long-time 754 user, but new member to the club represented by this impressive thread. forgive me for not reading the entire thing, which probably contains an answer to my question.

i have someone wanting to give me a 7900GTX for $100, but i'm presently still on AGP (6800). and while my intention was to convert back to ATI and build a new system around a DX10 card, this opportunity seems like it might allow me to extend the current system and get more value out of it for not much $$$.

my chip is a sempron 3000 (palermo, only 128kb L2), which i've never overclocked. but several people have recommended to that i push it to 2.2 to cut down the cpu bottleneck. (i'll hope to run everything in 1600x1200; and with 512mb vram on a 256-bit card, that seems doable).

so, the question is which board does one get? there's no need for sli with this video card, it's really just a question of which mobo gives me the best chance to overclock that chip by 400mhz and keep it stable.

newegg has (non-SLI) boards by MSI, DFI, Abit, Biostar, and Gigabyte...all for around $60. will these cut it? is any a stand-out?
 
I have very good luck with my Epox 8npa SLI. Don't let the SLI put you off since it offers many options for overclocking and tweakings. It can be had for cheap as well (maybe 10$ more but you get a opportunity to run it in SLI if you can find a 2nd card for cheap later and tide yourself till DX10 cards get cheap/less power hungry).
 
DFI nForce 3 or nForce 4 boards are very good. Lots of voltage options for cpu and ram. You want a mobo that gives you a lot of cpu voltage options as the Palermo Semprons and Venice Athlons do very well with voltages in the 1.6-1.65v range.
I've had great success with my Abit NV8, but DFI and Biostar are good options as well. If I had to do it over again I'd have bought a DFI.
 
BTW: anyone experience slow boot times following install of SP2? I finally caved and installed it (for my $15 Adaptec Gamebridge, damn software wouldn't install without it) and my boot times suck.

Charter finally fixed our internet and my wife managed to boot our walmart black-friday laptop (Sempron 2800+, 1GB, 4200rpm drive), open up IE, and search on google...and my PC was still booting. Pretty awful.

This is a relatively fresh install of windows - only 4-5 months old, tops.

Just checking to see if anyone has seen this problem...I've been doing some googling and will power up bootvis at home when I get the chance...
 
Remove all external devices you have attached (USB devices usually) and try rebooting.

I had this problem with an external hard disk, it made the bootup sequence take 4x as long.
 
cukes38 said:
......so, the question is which board does one get? there's no need for sli with this video card, it's really just a question of which mobo gives me the best chance to overclock that chip by 400mhz and keep it stable.

newegg has (non-SLI) boards by MSI, DFI, Abit, Biostar, and Gigabyte...all for around $60. will these cut it? is any a stand-out?
Click to expand...
I have used Gigabyte, Asus, Albatron, ECS and Epox for my s754 CPU's (I still have all except the Albatron), I like my Epox the best (the same EP-8NPA SLI that was recommended above). It has the most settings (could use a little higher vcore, though) and uses the well reviewed NF4 Ultra chipset. After the Epox, I liked the Gigabyte second best (I still love the dual BIOS features most Gigabyte boards have). I will say that the Albatron was the worst. Even the cheap ECS boards offered a removable BIOS chip that the Albatron lacked.

I'd say Epox all the way (unless your buddy will sell me the 7900GTX instead of you :D :eek: :p ;) ).
 
Another vote for the EPoX 8NPA SLI

I've been experimenting with breaking its voltage cap of 1.6v, so far I've had very little success through hacking up the BIOS. Even if you can get the BIOS to ask for more voltage than 1.6v (as is what happens when you do a voltage mod to the chip), the board refuses to supply more than 1.6v…

Now unless the BIOS is using hard coded voltage values internally (and I don’t think it is) this means that there’s some other piece of hardware on the motherboard limiting voltage...but what?
 
Volkswagen said:
how do the 3000/3200 venices overclock compared to the 3400+ Venice ?
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same from the results I've seen here. The 3400+ has the advantage of the 12x multiplier so if your RAM isn't up to par that's not as much of a hindrance...I guess but then you have dividers if needed. Any other differences he should know about?
 
Test4.jpg

The first time I hit print screen it didn't take so I had already stopped the test. It was over 1300% so the memory is good at 255mhz 2.5-2-3-6 1T. I had Prime (Large FFTs) going for 14 1/2 hours then I had a hard lockup. I upped the chipset voltage from 1.5v -> 1.6v in case that is the problem. HT multiplier is 3x so that was at ~768mhz HT link speed.

[Edit]
Still not enough. Failed Prime in 19 minutes this time. Checking the logs in the EPoX utility my vcore is dropping as low as 1.46v occasionally while it for the most part is steady at 1.49-1.50. I'll try the next highest setting and see if it stays high enough. Why would the VCore fluctuate when all other voltages are perfectly stable? Everything else; Vdimm, 12v+, 5v+, VChip, etc are rock solid in the log. Just VCore is dipping. :confused:
 
Volkswagen said:
how do the 3000/3200 venices overclock compared to the 3400+ Venice ?
Click to expand...

As has been said above - they all oc to about the same plateau. I got 2.68 out of my 3000+, 2.73 from my 3200+ and I'm presently getting 2.75 from my 3400+. I might do better on a DFI board as they seem to be getting some of the best results from what I have seen.

Hey Ded - my vcore (as reported by CPU-z and Abit's monitoring software) does the same thing - small vcore fluctuations. So far it hasn't caused me any major problems.
 
ep1taph said:
Remove all external devices you have attached (USB devices usually) and try rebooting.

I had this problem with an external hard disk, it made the bootup sequence take 4x as long.
Click to expand...

You know what? I think I left my USB thumb drive (SD-card to thumbdrive gadget) plugged into the front USB. That may have been it. Thanks, I'll try that.
 
GreenMonkey said:
You know what? I think I left my USB thumb drive (SD-card to thumbdrive gadget) plugged into the front USB. That may have been it. Thanks, I'll try that.
Click to expand...

I'm sure thats it...my GAK8NS Pro hung up when I had my Ipod plugged in....as soon as I unplugged it the computer continued booting!
 
GreenMonkey said:
You know what? I think I left my USB thumb drive (SD-card to thumbdrive gadget) plugged into the front USB. That may have been it. Thanks, I'll try that.
Click to expand...
Thats got to be it, my last ASRock motherboard did the same thing with USB thumb drives, and this EPoX motherboard will do it with some DVD's (like Oblivion and Need for Speed Most Wanted).
 
BigMacAttack said:
....Hey Ded - my vcore (as reported by CPU-z and Abit's monitoring software) does the same thing - small vcore fluctuations. So far it hasn't caused me any major problems.
Click to expand...
Nahh.... I am talking about something different. My Vcore is set to +0.15 and my Vcore shows up as 1.4V on CPU-Z v1.37 and 0.096 on CPU-Z v1.32. So I am describing some WAY OFF numbers, not just fluctuations.
 
unclewebb said:
Socket 754 owners that are still using old AGP motherboards will be able to continue gaming into the future with GeCube's release of an AGP version of the new X1950 Pro.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/video/display/20061023104107.html
Click to expand...

Nice, we now get the best AGP card, beating the Gainward 7800GS+ Bliss for sure. However, the price make it less interesting since you can get better results by buying a PCI-E s754 motherboard and 7950GT/X1900XT for roughly the same price range.

To get the best bang for the buck on AGP, you must not spend more than 200$ and that leave only the 7600GT as the only logical choice.
 
Its nice if you don't want to have to deal with the disposal of your current hardware while waiting to see how K8L and the G80 / r600 stack up
wink.gif
 
i am doing a build for someone with a really tight budget $600 ( $50 for me ) and I was gona go with a S754 Setup since i got some parts laying arround and been thinking about giving my 3400+ newcastle and getting a 3400+ Venice because it runs cooler and might oc more then my chip does (2.6ghz prime stable didnt oc or tes for more @ 1.65V ) I found a 3400+ Venice for $75 :confused:
 
I didn't sell out, but I bought in..

..to the 939 Newegg combo that is!

After building one of those 939 ECS KN1 Lite + 3400+ Venice combos for my father last weekend I really fell in love with the board.

- All overclocking options, including crazy high voltages I'll never use and mulitplier control (that actually works!! zomg!!r)
- The layout is perfect, except for the placement of the floppy drive which I don't have to use because I tested ECS's WinFlasher on dad's computer :eek: and it worked!
- PCI-E and Dual Core in the future. 939 isn't going anywhere soon and there's always going to be a dual core I can grab for it.

I grabbed a little crappy X600SE for $30 on eBay and I'm going to run RC2 and Mandriva 2007 on it as my "test" box.

My gaming computer will still be the 754/AGP listed in my sig until I eventually transition to the 939 (Seems my AGP card will fetch $150+ on eBay :eek: ) with a 7900/X1900-level card and a cheap dual core with AMD's latest price cuts.
 
Uhm...isnt that sort of a side-grade? As far as performance is concerned you just spent $99 on a motherboard and all you gained was PCIe :p
 
unclewebb said:
Socket 754 owners that are still using old AGP motherboards will be able to continue gaming into the future with GeCube's release of an AGP version of the new X1950 Pro.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/video/display/20061023104107.html
Click to expand...

I'm surprised it doesn't have the insane markup the 7800GS Bliss cards had. That's a much more reasonable price for an AGP version of a high-end card.


deadken said:
Hey... What is the name of this program? I can't find any software listed on the Epox site...

Ok... I have found THIS PAGE which makes all the difference....
Click to expand...

Yup I downloaded the latest version of ThunderProbe I saw on the site and dumped that along with the latest DirectX, NVidia drivers, etc on a flashdrive to smooth the installation.

[Edit]
You should note that isn't the latest version. There is a Utility_Epox-EPTP_4.0.8.109_2k above.zip I got somewhere else on their website. I can't recall exactly what I clicked on but it's around somewhere.
 
Unknown-One said:
Uhm...isnt that sort of a side-grade? As far as performance is concerned you just spent $99 on a motherboard and all you gained was PCIe :p
Click to expand...

Yeah - it does seem that way but at least he has the opportunity to go dual core in the future and he can sell of the 3400+ for a little cash in exchange.
 
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