LG 48CX

Looks like the very comparable Gigabyte FO48U is somewhat of a bust compared to the LG C1 (and even CX) if you care at all about HDR brightness and/or BFI (Per the RTings.com Early Access review). I understand that Display Port input can be very important to some people but not worth the downgrade IMO. Everything else trades blows since it's probably the same LG panel (FO48U has slightly better SDR color gamut / volume, HDR color volume, and Image retention). More discussion in the Gigabyte AORUS FO48U thread btw.

TestLG C1FO48UDiff
Build Quality9.09.00.0
Contrast10.010.00.0
Local Dimming10.010.00.0
SDR Peak Brightness6.26.30.1
HDR Peak Brightness7.66.4-1.2
Horizonal Viewing Angle9.19.10.0
Vertical Viewing Angle9.49.2-0.2
Gray Uniformity9.29.0-0.2
Black Uniformity10.010.00.0
Pre Calibration7.27.20.0
Post Calibration9.69.4-0.2
SDR Color Gamut8.79.40.7
SDR Color Volume9.19.80.7
HDR Color Gamut8.17.9-0.2
HDR Color Volume6.87.30.5
Image Retention8.99.91.0
Gradient9.19.10.0
Color Bleed9.710.00.3
Reflections9.19.20.1
Text Clarity7.06.5-0.5
Response Times @ Max Refresh9.910.00.1
Response Times @ 60hz9.910.00.1
Image Flicker10.010.00.0
Black Frame Insertion (BFI)8.95.9-3.0
Refresh Rate8.78.70.0
Input Lag9.39.30.0
Resolution and Size9.09.00.0
Sum239.5237.6-1.9

FO48U:

506134_1632431012629.png


LG C1:

506137_1632431059681.png


FO48U:

506148_1632431482728.png


LG C1:

506146_1632431453431.png
 
SoCali said:
I wouldn't compare it to a 55" C1. I would compare Rtings monitor review of the 48" CX because with a PC input icon/game mode it's quite a bit dimmer in real content compared to the movie/whatever modes Rtings tests the 55" TV's at (ignoring panel variance).

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-cx-oled
Click to expand...
You're somewhat correct, I didn't realize they split off the LG's into a separate TV/Monitor reviews. The HDR #'s still stand though for the C1 "Monitor" review (fortunately, looks like that was the one I was using in the comparison):

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-c1-oled
 
SoCali said:
I wouldn't compare it to a 55" C1. I would compare Rtings monitor review of the 48" CX because with a PC input icon/game mode it's quite a bit dimmer in real content compared to the movie/whatever modes Rtings tests the 55" TV's at (ignoring panel variance).

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-cx-oled
Click to expand...

With my X-Rite i1 Display Pro plus I measured 700 nits in HDR Cinema-mode and 674 nits in PC + Game-mode on my 48C1 (non-evo panel) after calibration. I really would like to know why there is such a gap in their 48CX vs 48C1 review in terms of HDR real scene, that does not make any sense. They also ususally get much higher overall brightness measurments at least on 10% window compared to any other review.
 
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Seyumi said:
You're somewhat correct, I didn't realize they split off the LG's into a separate TV/Monitor reviews. The HDR #'s still stand though for the C1 "Monitor" review (fortunately, looks like that was the one I was using in the comparison):

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-c1-oled
Click to expand...
Oh yeah I didn't realize they did a 48" C1 "monitor" review yet so that is the most comparable and your #'s are accurate.

EDIT: There seems to be lots of panel variance when it comes to HDR brightness. Unlike LCD's, different review sites have wildly different measurements. An 80-100nit difference between 2 panels is pretty massive and much more obvious to the eye on a OLED vs LCD. Might explain some people claiming OLED's are too dark and others saying they are blindingly bright.
 
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Their CX 48 vs C1 48 "monitor" review does look a bit suspect when looking at the HDR peak brightness section. I was fairly confident the CX48 was ever so slightly brighter than the C1 48 from all the initial reviews. I believe there has been firmware updates & fixes though on the C1 and I believe they even retested the C1 with these new revisions which might explain the better HDR #'s.
 
Has anyone experienced tons of dead pixels appearing?



I haven't cared about burn in at all since buying in July 2020 but just checked for the fun of it and there are hundreds of dead pixels on the edges of the TV (top/right/left bezels). Some are chunks or clusters of dead pixels. Gonna reach out to LG and see if they'll do an out of warranty repair. I've never seen this happen on any of the 40+ displays I've owned.
 
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SoCali said:
Has anyone experienced tons of dead pixels appearing?

I haven't cared about burn in at all since buying in July 2020 but just checked for the fun of it and there are hundreds of dead pixels on the edges of the TV (top/right/left bezels). Some are chunks or clusters of dead pixels. Gonna reach out to LG and see if they'll do an out of warranty repair. I've never seen this happen on any of the 40+ displays I've owned.
Click to expand...

My 55" C9 did as well after a few years in. I have dozens of dead pixels but all seem to be along the very left edge/side of the screen only. Really weird since I know for sure they weren't there in the beginning. Honestly I didn't even notice until I was like cleaning the screen. I'm really sensitive to dead/stuck pixels but even I agree I can't even see them at the distance I sit from the TV (around 6' - using a recliner & wireless keyboard/mouse).
 

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Yeah mine weren't here when I bought it new either. I'm now noticing there are some scattered around the center too. I kinda noticed them in the center but just passed them off as specks of dust/dirt. The ones on the edge though I for sure couldn't see at all until I put up test slides. Overall though this has kind of soured my opinion of these TV's given it's 14 months old and seeing reports of others experiencing the same.

I'll update once LG gets back to me.
 
SoCali said:
Has anyone experienced tons of dead pixels appearing?
Click to expand...

I check it from time to time. I have only one towards the bottom of the screen on my C9 (October 2019) and none on my C1 (June 2021).

The other supposedly dead pixels that I find are just dirt.
 
SoCali said:
Has anyone experienced tons of dead pixels appearing?

View attachment 397523

I haven't cared about burn in at all since buying in July 2020 but just checked for the fun of it and there are hundreds of dead pixels on the edges of the TV (top/right/left bezels). Some are chunks or clusters of dead pixels. Gonna reach out to LG and see if they'll do an out of warranty repair. I've never seen this happen on any of the 40+ displays I've owned.
Click to expand...
Huh, not seeing anything like that on my 48CX that I use for work+play (it's powered on for the majority of the day most days). Thought I spotted a dead pixel near the bottom edge, but it wiped away with a Swiffer. :p

Didn't notice anything like that with my 55B7, either. But I'll say this: if that does by some chance happen to my 48CX, I'd immediately replace it with a C1. There's just no replacement for these until Micro/MiniLED become common and affordable IMO, and even then I doubt they'll be perfect in every regard since every display type ever has had drawbacks, limitations and compromises.
 
I just asked my buddy who I sold my previous C9 to whether he's seeing something similar and now he's as pissed as I am after discovering a bunch of dead pixels (only on the left). I told him if he hadn't noticed them this entire time what's it matter.

Still though at this rate I don't expect mine to survive another 2 years without the center developing noticeably more dead pixels. Seems there is a lot of variance between panels in every regard including longevity.
 
The only reason I finally decided to pull the trigger on such an expensive screen was because when I got the CX from Costco they were offering a combination of solid warranties (for free) that came out to SEVEN YEARS.

I honestly don't expect the set to be trouble free that long. So at some point... we will find out. Or at least it will help cover the next display when the time comes.

Or... it will be trouble free for a decade. Which will be fine too.
 
Advil said:
The only reason I finally decided to pull the trigger on such an expensive screen was because when I got the CX from Costco they were offering a combination of solid warranties (for free) that came out to SEVEN YEARS.

I honestly don't expect the set to be trouble free that long. So at some point... we will find out. Or at least it will help cover the next display when the time comes.

Or... it will be trouble free for a decade. Which will be fine too.
Click to expand...

Compared to any other ~4k-ish , 120hz+ VRR gaming capable screens with suitable high density FALD or OLED per pixel emissive array for true HDR capability... the 48" LG gaming screens are actually more affordable. Their hdmi 2.1 is also more compatible (than most other "gaming screens") with the latest console's 120hz as well providing the bandwidth for full 4k 120hz 444 10 bit from a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu.

A 48" 4k screen is around ~ 41.8" across left to right. So that's roughly equivalent to a 45.3" diagonal 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution screen when in 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution/mode too. That equates to a 17.4" tall viewable in uw 3840x1600 resolution. For comparison, the neo G9 VA's entire screen is 14.3" tall with a 5120x1440 resolution (3840+1280, or +640 px each side by comparison).

I'm not saying it's not "expensive" but the 48" OLEDs are a lot cheaper than the few alternatives with similar capabilities and give more performance as an overall screen at that.
 
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Some info from the samsung neo g9 Rtings review regarding black flashing and their attempt to mitigate it:

Like the Samsung Odyssey G9, the Neo G9 has flickering issues with lower-frame rate or dim content that could get distracting. The flicker is noticeable, with some scenes more than others. Samsung added a VRR Control setting to help reduce this issue by doubling the frames with lower-frame rate content, which helps improve it but also causes some stuttering.
Click to expand...

Which goes to show that keeping your frame rate in the higher range does help reduce the issue... or to look at it from the opposite direction --> running frame rates that dip into the lower end exacerbates the issue.

Higher end = touching or exceeding 120fpsHz (the gamma curve's set point) on the high end of the frame rate graph's range (~90fps to 100fps average or higher, capped at 117fps). Lower end = anything lower than that.

------------------------------------------

a 100fpsHz Average graph's typical frame rate range

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<----------100fpsHz --------->>>>> 115 capped

Or better yet 110 - 115fpsHz average:

(85) 100fpsHz <<<------------------- 115fpsHz --------------->>>> 115capped


I realize this eliminates much of the variable Hz range most people use variable Hz for in the first place but it still allows that fluctuation (of +/- 15fps to 30 fps on each end) without having to keep a 120fpsHz MINIMUM which is much more demanding than even the high fpsHz average rate's spans I posted.

Those are a big difference from something like 80fpsHz average:

(50) 65fpsHz <<<<<------------- 80 fpsHz ---------------->>>> 95fpsHz (110)


You could do a 60fps CAP using a frame rate that has a 60fps minimum (which would be 60Hz on the display) too, or set the display to 60hz but I'm not interested in 60hz gameplay when I can get higher. I'm also not interested in VRR ranging BELOW 60fpsHz which is why I suggested minimums with cap instead of free ranging.

You could also experiment with setting a FPS cap on a per game basis (with RTSS or nvidia control panel) at whatever *minimum* frame rate you are capable of on that particular game (avoiding using VRR). The idea of VRR is that people can use poorer frame rates though essentially, in order to experience higher graphics with some moderate fluctiation. Personally I love VRR but I avoid going into the shallow end of the pool for the lower 1/3 of the graph.
Click to expand...


----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also in regard to HDR (from RTings odyssey G9 Neo review):

Note: There are major issues with the HDR support. Some content is over-brightened to the point where you can't properly make out any details, or dark content is hard to see. This depends on the content, so the peak brightness may perform differently in these situations. We didn't notice this with our real scene test pattern.
Click to expand...

That screen is like $2500 last I looked so the 48" LG screens are actually priced nicely in my opinion.
 
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Hey Guys, Cable/connection question.

How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?

If so please suggest cable/Adapter's

Thanks
 
ND40oz said:
You're likely going to need active adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-Adapter-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V
Click to expand...

Yes idk how well that would work out without looking in to those adapters. So far adapters that do 120hz can't do VRR afaik.

Otherwise, even if you had a 3080/90 with three hdmi outs, one of them would be hdmi 2.0b (60hz 4k).

That said, with three 4k screens you probably aren't going to get high frame rates on most games, and that's putting it mildly.

Personally I'd go with a single 4k screen in 3840x1600 ultrawide mode (or a samsung G9 neo at 5120x1440) and sit closer when playing the type of games that would benefit from using some of the game rendered in your peripheral vision for immersion.

elvn said:
A 48" 4k screen is around ~ 41.8" across left to right. So that's roughly equivalent to a 45.3" diagonal 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution screen when in 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution/mode too. That equates to a 17.4" tall viewable in uw 3840x1600 resolution. For comparison, the neo G9 VA's entire screen is 14.3" tall with a 5120x1440 resolution (3840+1280, or +640 px each side by comparison).
Click to expand...


That or consider buying a high end VR headset like a pimax 8k.

 
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Nick Moxley said:
Would i Not loose VRR with that adapter as many have reported in the reviews ?
Click to expand...

One person has VRR working with a usb-c adaptor but your card doesn't have usb-c. You'll have to test out adaptors and see what ones will work if any. You're bleeding edge with 3 48CXs, so you'll likely need to do the testing yourself.
 
elvn said:
Yes idk how well that would work out without looking in to those adapters. So far adapters that do 120hz can't do VRR afaik.

Otherwise, even if you had a 3080/90 with three hdmi outs, one of them would be hdmi 2.0b (60hz 4k).

That said, with three 4k screens you probably aren't going to get high frame rates on most games, and that's putting it mildly.

Personally I'd go with a single 4k screen in 3840x1600 ultrawide mode (or a samsung G9 neo at 5120x1440) and sit closer when playing the type of games that would benefit from using some of the game rendered in your peripheral vision for immersion.




That or consider buying a high end VR headset like a pimax 8k.

Click to expand...

Sorry seems i missed your reply this morning, Yes from what I've also read, VRR is a problem. So what would actually be limiting the VRR from working if the hz and resolution will pass ?. Not knowing exactly how that all works.

Im coming from a Trio of the Aorus FU43's that are going back this week due to various issues I've encountered. (previously had cheap Trio of Bestbuy Boxing day special 43" 1080p Toshibas). So Not having triples is a No Go, VR is also not that interesting to me at this stage.

For reference i was SHOCKED how BUTTER Smooth and effective the FU43's were running at 3x4k but at sub 60fps with quite a bit of eye candy still on from my 1080p setup. (Games include Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione *Unreal engine) So IMO the VRR is something i cant justify to loose. but things aren't looking too good given what im learning now about DP and HDMI quirks.

ND40oz said:
One person has VRR working with a usb-c adaptor but your card doesn't have usb-c. You'll have to test out adaptors and see what ones will work if any. You're bleeding edge with 3 48CXs, so you'll likely need to do the testing yourself.
Click to expand...


Ya technically i have a 2080ti in the machine right now, the 3080 is coming tomorrow, but that 1 single output that can support it wont solve my 3x problem.

GjGt-hxQ-xgRtOPMIyxakMCj8tNLar4kgylQE3FHHhJ-iJ1JNkbk6XbGtg_tyRas4znCnNQoLEdjWXwJqM6-eIhESB9FXHILo9FhIu8-D_Efgvf70RUwixMPArI7JQ9Be0O_Y7YLKTkw01ijNJgn6IkQk3sShBeAPuXTISIi-Tk4zY8HmOzJwk4ys3D99xiRY8jZZH1ZgPM9sC5eok9u9_Hk_AiA7yOiBHiTcMIv_21UlO6xuUQH73cmyg2nxEQSr6XBKrqS0h2xLccPsHh3MpnKG3BTGT7AYnQGXSFG4VISphKmY1B3Gry_BqaeCyovvyFgGmTvo8Udu110NzNl-1HzdyDcdEEaMK9UEV0r3jN3nrLH78bVsy0_QWleRqFRUlzRGClebnuXvsG-m3J9WRSz7zF29tQS4KGGprJdZz60IZxbUqNEoy7buPbcQOMD2ypoOFKdm7X2f5kbD_In-aI6oqthL9y5bl1edykdeEb6j2aLqr0emzYtkOWBqVa6UIHMCKMYfzRC6q-it0G8nBMFId6h8uNhANnoEjPru8j9GkWlliK6mcj-01CnU91tvNN2ixxlN10UR1pdqCCZcsiF2d0CFqQ12EorigpoPWDnM4QpWE1O5QCvbVJUlbxKSnWdzBrkxRGNsuqUWlEVx52qLkbdfo257YhM-LRdL-qTsvI2AaEgf8o_65NIZ9gTzQuLROfV8LJwArC8cCDflWWOGg=w3432-h2574-no
 
kasakka said:
While there are few reviews of the AW55, https://www.tomsguide.com/reviews/alienware-aw5520qf-55-inch-oled-gaming-monitor says the following:

"But there's one area where the AW5520QF fell below our expectations, and that was lag time. When tested with our Leo Bodnar input lag tester over HDMI, the AW5520QF consistently clocked a lag time of 29.5 milliseconds. While most of our tests were performed in standard picture mode, we made sure to perform lag testing across every mode the Alienware offered, but it stayed consistent in every mode. While that's not far out of line with premium OLED TVs, like the Sony A9F (27.5 ms) and the LG C9 OLED (21.2 ms), it's significantly slower than the Samsung Q60 QLED, which offered a game mode with lag times of 16.3 ms. For a gaming-focused monitor, from one of the biggest brand names in gaming, I expected better. "

Now their lag times are higher than what Rtings review has for C9 so this might be at 4K 60 Hz or different way of measuring it, I don't know. But in any case in their test it looks like the AW55 input lag was actually higher. To compare like for like, you would probably want to run C9 and AW55 at 1440p @ 120 Hz. C9 should be in Game mode apparently.

Personally I cannot tell a difference in input lag between my C9, ASUS PG278Q or Samsung CRG9. The differences are entirely in response times. Even my Samsung KS8000 at around 22ms input lag was fine in SDR, but the 35ms in HDR mode was noticeably worse. I think it's just not worth nitpicking about input lag or try to turn it into some massive issue, it's low enough on the C9 and CX even at 4K 60 Hz.

With next gen GPUs rumored to be releasing in September, there is just no good reason to buy the AW55 at this point. In my country the 55" LG C9 is 1500 euros cheaper. The 55" CX is only about 300 euros cheaper. The 48" CX is about 1100 euros cheaper and a more desktop friendly size.

To me rather than correct misinformation it sounds like you are trying to justify your purchase to us. In the end it's the same LG OLED panel paired with different hardware for a different purpose. Enjoy your display but please understand that those who don't own one have no good reason to buy one at this point when we could save a massive pile of money with 55" C9 or 48" CX, get good HDR support and put that saved money towards an Nvidia 3080 or 3080 Ti later this year.
Click to expand...
Was considering the Alienware before I saw this, thinking it would be less laggy than the LG CX, not having the processing lag of a TV and all.
30ms is retardedly slow. Into the trash it goes. Almost slower than my IPS laptop. Embarassing for any gaming monitor, let alone an OLED one.
 
@ND40oz
@elvn

I called the company UpTab whom make the following adapter https://ca.uptab.com/displayport-1-..._medium=wi_proxy&utm_content=en_US&utm_term=c

the Support tech was More than happy to chit chat about the situation and gave detailed info as to what and why this limitations exists and that its a Futile search on my part, as there Does NOT exist a current solution for DP to HDMI to maintain the VRR. (disappointing to say the least, i guess ill be going back to 1080p for a while longer :cry:)

He explained they are in talks with Nvidia, AMD and HDMI for a adapter they have in the works, but said he cant say any further on time line or release date.
 
LG support is pretty good in America. My CX is 3 months out of warranty and they are still willing to send out a tech for a panel replacement.
 
Nick Moxley said:
How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?
Click to expand...
Do you already own the C1's?

I ask because the Aorus FO48U could be a work-around for that issue due to having both DisplayPort and HDMI (technically its 24Gbps HDMI bandwidth is less than the C1's 40Gbps, but it supports DSC anyway which your 3080 supports; furthermore your 3080 has 3x DisplayPort outputs so the reduced HDMI bandwidth is a bit moot anyway).


There's also the crazy option of mixing and matching if you have only one C1 currently, e.g. having that single C1 as the center display and two FO48U's as the side displays.
 
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Few quick questions-
Will probably soon order the 65" c1 from amazon since its on sale. Don't want the price to return. I'll have to use it from the couch, and run some mini desk setup. Mostly play RPGs with family, or alone: Escape from Tarkov, WoW/Diablo and RTS games like Wc3.

Anything you wish you knew before you bought an oled display?
Anyone that bought the 48" wish they went larger? Or anyone that went larger wish they went 48"?
Any way to lobotomize any/all the Smart Tv/Alexa stuff?
Is it worth waiting for the other/newer type of oled panels?
 
The only thing I can say is that it's natural to want to baby it inherently from fear or burn in but I've learned that they are far more resilient than you think. I still do it out of habit when it reality I could probably be much more careless.

Most here own the 48" and wish it were smaller like me. The 42" next year will scratch that itch and with Samsung entering the OLED market next year, I expect LG is going to have a much more legitimate upgrade compared to CX -> C1 which really added nothing of value (other than Evo panels for 55"+). If I were in a position to buy now it would really depend because the new TV's get announced at CES but actual availability can take until mid 2022 so the question is can you live without an OLED for a potential 6+ months.
 
I have a 48" C1, had there been a 40-42" I'd have gotten that and used the inclueded stand on my desk instead of buying a wall mount from Monoprice.

Way to lobotomize -> don't hook it up to the internet, or at the least update the firmware then disconnect.
 
how often should you run pixel refresh? my CX developed a vertical line on the right edge but pixel refresh sorted it out, didnt do anything for the dead pixels in the upper right though
 
Khnick said:
how often should you run pixel refresh? my CX developed a vertical line on the right edge but pixel refresh sorted it out, didnt do anything for the dead pixels in the upper right though
Click to expand...
No need to ever run it yourself. Just keep the CX connected to power and it will handle it as it sees fit.
 
OLED-light 80 for desktop usage in THIS environment AND only let the small pixel refresher run every 15 hours (10:21Min, 541/35). He is clueless.
 
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OLED Light at 80 is really bright...if the thing is being used in an office with high amounts of ambient lighting already then I see no reason to use an OLED for productivity as not only will you burn in your display faster by running such a high brightness for 8+ hours a day, but you'll also get hit with ABL once too much of the screen has been filled with white and that can be quite annoying. I have been using my CX as my daily driver since June 2020 but at OLED light set to 30 in a dim environment and I don't have a single hint of burn in yet, plus ABL doesn't kick in since my max brightness is 120 nits while the ABL ceiling is 150 nits.
 
Yeah I mean most people use these displays at way too high a brightness value for desktop use. I just don't find it comfortable at all to be blasted by white docs/pages on something this size which is why I use it at 80-100nits. It also mitigates his problem of small white windows becoming searing bright when you open them.
 
SoCali said:
LTT video about IR he experienced has people terrified of owning a OLED:

Click to expand...


It certainly has me worried/reconsidering. I was considering the upcoming 42" LG as a desktop replacement for work AND leisure, meaning 8+ hours of general desktop usage (many work windows/IDE's/documents open at once) and then 3 hours or so of leisure. The office we have our pc's in is not a cave and during the day its going to be medium to fairly bright with windows. I'm thinking that as much as I would like it to be the case, OLED is probably not going to be the answer for my desktop needs.

I guess I'll have to hope that Samsung gets their head out of their asses and gives the 43" Q90 NEO high refresh/VRR like its larger siblings...
 
Someone above has pointed out that he isn't letting the pixel refresher do it's thing like it would on in a normal use case. For that reason I think the video is fear mongering at it's finest and no different from Samsung's anti OLED ad's where they have someone play an MMO for a day straight on both a Samsung VA and OLED, the OLED shows temporary IR because it's showing HUD's for 24 hours straight. As soon as it gets turned off to do a pixel refresh cycle on it's own that IR would be gone.
 
Pretty sure this video would not exist if he would have turned his TV off every 4-8 hours for 6 minutes to let the pixel refresher doing it's thing.
 
lors said:
Pretty sure this video would not exist if he would have turned his TV off every 4-8 hours for 6 minutes to let the pixel refresher doing it's thing.
Click to expand...
And this is exactly why some of us will not use an OLED tv as a monitor. I want to turn on the monitor and forget it. Don't want to baby sit it and do annoying little task to prevent burn in.
 
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