LG 48CX

[TwistedMetalGear]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

 

[darkknight302]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

 

[sharknice]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

I doubt it would make much difference but I turn mine off if I am going to be away for more than a half hour for another reason.

I don't trust windows to keep it on a black screen. I have the taskbar and desktop icons on another monitor and windows will sometimes randomly decide to move them around when displays go to sleep or get shut off. And I like to turn off the other screens because they're lcd with a backlight always on wasting power.

A keyboard could get pressed, or some software could trigger it to exit sleep mode and suddenly you have a static image wearing away at the screen while you're gone.

So I just lock the pc and shut all the screens off if I am going to leave for 30+ minutes.

 

[Porter_]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

 

[MistaSparkul]

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

Same. Unless I feel that something's not running right I just leave my OSD off.

 

[harvindhillon]

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

Or you can get a small 7" monitor and have all that on there

I have a spare 21" I use for the same, I put all my desktop icons and system stats on there

 

[elvn]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

Pasting my quote here. Some relevant info in it but the link is on the bottom if you want to skip to it.
.
..

..The 20/20 vision threshold for 48" 4k:
----------------------------------------------------------------
20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)

Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle

--------------------------

I use a 43" in portrait mode on each side of my 48" screen. At the sweet spot distances for viewing the 48" in landscape (38" - 48" to my eyeballs), running even 43" screens in landscape on the sides wouldn't work for my liking. Instead I use the side screens with 3 windows stacked or a 2/3 + 1/3 configuration by default or on the fly, with a few other window arrangements saved to profiles. The side screens are samsung nu6900 VA's (around 6100:1 contrast ratio and accompanying black depths) , so I don't have to worry about burn in on those.

I use displayfusion multi-monitor app with it's own taskbars and duplicated system tray on them which I set to very narrow at the top of my side screens. I hide the windows task bar on my primary oled monitor using a hot key show/hide toggle in an app called taskbar hider. (I could also drag the windows taskbar off of the primary monitor to the top of one of my side monitors if I wanted to). I also use the translucent taskbar app to make the windows taskbar itself transparent.

I use displayfusion functions tied to streamdeck lcd buttons with icons to launch and place all of my most used apps, and to open commonly used windows system panels, etc. It also places the active window wherever I want using streamdeck buttons + hotkeys with LCD buttons outlining window placement locations something like windows 11 is doing (but better imo). I cobbled together some neat multi functions for my most used apps on multiple-presses of the same app button to launch/minimize/restore-to-my-set-home-position-for-that-particular-app. Finally, I have saved window position profiles in displafusion hotkeyed to streamdeck button(s) so I can hit one button and shuffle all of my open apps at once back to where I had saved them in that profile. One single press. I also have a pair of on the fly save/restore positions buttons next to that one.

I can use windows + S key to open search at any time and type the first 2 or three letters of anything which almost always picks up what I want, and then hit enter if it's anything I for some reason don't have mapped to my stream deck.

I use a small usb midi controller with some easy to use software in order to map all of my most used app's audio to sliders and some games to some control knobs. That way I don't have to invoke the global windows system volume overlay (which drops games out of hdr metadata/mode).

-----------------

I dedicate the middle OLED as a multimedia and gaming screen / "stage". When afk or not using it I use the "turn off the screen" trick to turn off the oled emitters without dropping the screen out of the monitor array. Almost like minimizing the whole screen and restoring it when I want to use it again.

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/j0mia1/quick_tip_for_a_fast_way_to_turn_off_the_screen/

This option seems to only be for the LG CX, BX and GX unfortunately.. Would be nice for LG to add this to previous models with enough requests.
I notice many people have been going all the way through the settings or using voice commands to turn the screen off. Screen off comes in handy for many things like Spotify and podcasts with a static image while still hearing sound (the tv isn't actually off). There is a very quick and convenient way to simply add a screen off button to your quick settings when you press the settings button once (not holding as that will take you to main settings)
So you want to press the settings cog button once and then scroll to the bottom pencil button aka edit. You may have to delete a less used button to make room and then press the + button and find 'screen off'. This will add it to your quick menu which is really fast and doesn't require you to find it deep in settings or talk into your remote and wait for the countdown (it's instant). You can add a bunch of other stuff to quick menu via + but screen off was the big one for me.
I hope this helps! I've noticed many users didn't know this when I've commented so I figured it may help some of you worried about static images.

You should still turn off the screen completely into standby overnight or when you are going to be away a long time though because the display sometimes goes into an oled wear-evening routine when left in standby for several hours. That won't happen with the "turn off the screen" trick because the TV is not off at all really - it's on and operating in the array, the emitters are just off temporarily.

 

[elvn]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

You can use this on a tablet or phone. (Probably better on a tablet).

https://event.msi.com/us/afterburnerapp/faq.html

https://event.msi.com/us/afterburnerapp/use.html

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.msi.gamingapp&hl=en_US&gl=US

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/msi-afterburner-app/id472232633


Not the prettiest monitoring page but it works apparently.

You can also go to a page full of sliders to adjust the voltages and fans and everything.

Personally I have enough desktop real-estate to display a lot of readout stuff on my side screens. I keep rainmeter "Widgets" at the top of my right screen showing several panels worth of system stuff all of the time. Some of the rainmeter widgets are linked to hwinfo64 and monitor cpu and gpu stats.
https://www.deviantart.com/tag/rainmeter

There are prettier ones but this one is very readable at a glance. You don't have to have all of the modules loaded. You can also load modules mixed and matched between other sets of rainmeter widgets from other authors.

I'd also consider buying a portable usb screen to connect to your gaming rig just for that kind of thing if you don't have to room to start with or if you run out of space or monitor outputs
I might end up doing that in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/portable-usb-monitor/s?k=portable+usb+monitor

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

You can use this on a tablet or phone. (Probably better on a tablet).

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

 

[kasakka]

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

Way too many people are obsessing over if their framerate dips even once in gameplay. Use it to find settings that work for you and then just turn it off and you will be happier.

 

[elvn]

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

Yeah that's one of the reasons I said, prob better off on a tablet. I specifically chose a ips tablet and a oled phone this time around because I got some burn in on my last samsung oled tablet (I think due to heat rather than time left on but I can't be sure). You could use an old tablet or phone you aren't using anymore, or could prob score a cheap android ips tablet just for that purpose (maybe even cheap fire tablets), you can use a small screen made for raspberry pi and use a raspberry pi as the system monitor (see link below), or like I said, a similar sized usb/mini/portable screen would be a lot more capable in your gaming rig OS with overall widgets but it might take up a display output on your gpu.

The rainmeter widgets I mentioned were also in regard to secondary screens.

I use my center landscape OLED as a media/gaming "stage" so I'm not putting any static readouts on it other than the gaming HUD. My side screens are 6100:1 VA's in portrait. I leave some widgets up in a band at the top of my right portrait screen, prob 15-20% tall. The next row down is a set of 3 communications windows (an irc client, sms/text app tied to my phone, 3rd party encrypted chat app for a few people) and a shareX screenshot app. The bottom 40% of that screen is a web browser, email client, or other app depending what button I push on my streamdeck.

My left screen usually has three windows stacked evenly on top of each other or two windows at 2/3 + 1/3.

I still might add another screen someday just for the widgets/system monitoring tools. I don't have a fps meter up in my widgets but I do shoot for 100fps average if I can get it in order to get appreciable gains out of a 120hz screen. Once I dial in whatever settings for a game graphics/framerate balance wise, I'm not keeping a fps meter up on the gaming screen unless I notice a problem. The system monitoring tools I use aren't really for frame rate in my usage scenario. More like network activity, temps, voltage , %usage of cpu/gpu(I used to have 2 gpus in SLI too) /memory/drives, top resource using apps, etc. Also clock/calendar/weather forecast+moon phase. I don't use taskbars anymore really.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7?

I agree not overlayed on the gaming viewport but otherwise..

..Yes

..............

Some people even put lcd stuff in their aquarium style pc cases, including lcd readout AiO coolers. Not really my thing as I don't keep my pc on my desk surface but whatever floats your boat. The fact that you can put custom animated gifs on the nzxt AiO is kind of neat though I have to admit.

Or on their desk with a small screen in the same way:

---------

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterra..._an_old_android_phone_or_any_smartphone_into/

Turn an old Android phone (or any smartphone) into a PC hardware stats monitor​

-----------

https://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_...pberry_pi_pc_hardware_resource_monitor_using/

-----
Aida64 (paid app, kind of pricey $50 and a per yr extension I think $40)

https://forums.aida64.com/topic/667-share-your-sensorpanel/page/72/

------------

A Hwinfo64 app that does similar, works on tablets (and phones) listed below.
The aida64 app above seems to have a lot more customization and community with ongoing template creation but aida64 is kind of expensive with a yearly price tag

https://www.youtube.com/embed/GaDu6pNaNu4?ps=play&vq=large&rel=0&autohide=1&showinfo=0&authuser=0


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trigonesoft.rsm&hl=en_US&gl=US

https://www.trigonesoft.com/

https://www.trigonesoft.com/index.php/gallery

--------------------------------------

A different Hwinfo64 app ... looks pretty nice:

Prometheus Adapter for HWiNFO (+ Grafana Dashboard)​

https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/prometheus-adapter-for-hwinfo-grafana-dashboard.6281/

https://github.com/kallex/PromDapter/releases

PromDapter = Prometheus Adapter
-------------------------------

Currently in Pre-Release/Beta stage
- Lightly documented
- Source available, but not completely buildable due to HWiNFO Provider being private NuGet for the time being

Pre-requisites:
- HWiNFO running with Shared Memory enabled and Sensor-mode (window) opened, can be hidden afterwards

v0.9.xx-beta
Setup:
- Windows 64-bit supported only (should be trivial to make 32-bit, open an issue if needed)
- Sets up LocalSystem - running Service called "Prometheus Adapter" (PromDapterSvc)
- Service is serving on port 10445 (need to open it in firewall for TCP protocol)
- Setup is supposed to not overwrite existing

URLs:
http://localhost:10445/metrics
- Serves Prometheus-formed metrics

http://localhost:10445/metrics/help
- Lists # HELP tagged parts of metrics for (easier?) review of what's available

http://localhost:10445/metrics/reset
- Resets internal caches (= reloads "C:\ProgramData\PromDapter\Prometheusmapping.yaml" on next request)

JSON support:
http://localhost:10445/metrics/json
http://localhost:10445/metrics/json?option=flattenMeta


Configuration/Metric definition:
- Modify C:\ProgramData\PromDapter\Prometheusmapping.yaml (save your copy safely elsewhere and copy over + reset with url above)
(The installation version of the file is also available in "C:\Program Files\PromDapter")

TODO (next):
- Configurable server port (currently fixed 10445)
- Configurable metric prefix (currently fixed hwi_)

TODO (needs to be done):
- Finish remaining HWiNFO sensors (various voltage, fan sensor naming properly)
- Handle naming consolidation properly, ie. Ryzen 2xxx series Tctl needs right now be renamed in HWiNFO to match 1xxx and 3xxx series

 

[Perscitus]

Firmware ver.03.23.35 is out (dated Sep-1st).

Appears to be the final firmware for the 2020 CX series boxes. 'We are sharing the final S/W of LG OLED AI released as a new model in 2020.'

Changelog as useful as ever:
'Improvement of minor issues related to software (03.23.35)'

Thx LG, much wow.

 

[Porter_]

Thx LG

We’ve already talked about it a few times in this thread but honestly kudos to LG for the phenomenal support.

 

[peppergomez]

For some reason after doing a Windows reinstall last week and unplugging then replugging the digital audio cable from the LG 48cx into my Logitech speakers, when I choose Realtek as the audio option I Windows, the audio plays through my laptop speakers and not the Logitech speakers. In the LG settings, I have selected Optical as the audio option, ditto on the Logitech. Not sure what the problem is here, or if its a Windows things or a setting on the LG 48cx. Can anyone assist?

 

[elvn]

For starters, I'd re-seat the optical cable. They can be touchy. You might want to try a new optical cable too. See if the housing/port for the optical cable is loose on either end. Also check to see if it is lit at the end you plug into the tv.

Go into the tv settings and check all the audio options in there. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your audio device on the laptop. You might have to manually go to the mfg website and download them. The audio device might have a settings panel. Make sure you are on digital audio out.

Check these settings:
https://superuser.com/questions/1095458/windows-10-and-realtek-optical-output-5-1-dts-how-to-enable

These pages might also be worth looking at:
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...y-digital-live-dts-interactive.228612/page-11

[LG webOS TV] – Sound output options


-------------------

I don't know the ports on your laptop and I'm assuming it's not possible for your machine but If at all possible, I'd use hdmi audio and not optical out.

 

[elvn]

For some reason after doing a Windows reinstall last week and unplugging then replugging the digital audio cable from the LG 48cx into my Logitech speakers, when I choose Realtek as the audio option I Windows, the audio plays through my laptop speakers and not the Logitech speakers. In the LG settings, I have selected Optical as the audio option, ditto on the Logitech. Not sure what the problem is here, or if its a Windows things or a setting on the LG 48cx. Can anyone assist?

So you have no digital audio output on your laptop and you are passing hdmi audio to the tv, then outputting the TV's optical output to the speakers/amp? What graphics card / hdmi audio are you using? If you are trying to pass hdmi audio, you'd need to select the gpu's hdmi audio out to the tv, in the panel screenshot I linked above.

The realtek digital out is only for actual optical (or maybe even coaxial) outputs from the device. If you had a direct optical out from the laptop, you wouldn't need to pass audio through the tv at all necessarily, unless you had to for the WebOS or other inputs (consoles, etc). Did you try running optical out to the speakers from the TV and playing something from the WebOS? (youtube, emby/plex, whatever) to see if you get sound with the laptop out of the loop? Then try running the laptop directly to the speakers (if possible, outputs wise) and see if you get sound that way. Process of elimination.

You can get a cheap usb audio device if nothing else works but you should be able to get it working eventually.

 

[HiCZoK]

Anyone with 48" c1 knows correct SDR settings?
I am using PC mode, Game optimizer, warm50, gamma 2.2 and oled pixel brightness 30. Rest at default.
watched hdtvtest ps5 recommended settings and he sets (for SDR), oled brightness to 75 and gamma to 1886.

I cannot find setting to nits measurements anywhere. I was under the impression that value of 30 is close to 100 nits. anyone knows?

 

[illli]

Anyone with 48" c1 knows correct SDR settings?
I am using PC mode, Game optimizer, warm50, gamma 2.2 and oled pixel brightness 30. Rest at default.
watched hdtvtest ps5 recommended settings and he sets (for SDR), oled brightness to 75 and gamma to 1886.

I cannot find setting to nits measurements anywhere. I was under the impression that value of 30 is close to 100 nits. anyone knows?

maybe someone would know here https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/

 

[XoR_]

Anyone with 48" c1 knows correct SDR settings?
I am using PC mode, Game optimizer, warm50, gamma 2.2 and oled pixel brightness 30. Rest at default.
watched hdtvtest ps5 recommended settings and he sets (for SDR), oled brightness to 75 and gamma to 1886.

I cannot find setting to nits measurements anywhere. I was under the impression that value of 30 is close to 100 nits. anyone knows?

There is no such thing as recommended brightness. You set it as bright or dim as you like.
Same with gamma, though here generally recommended are values from 2.2 to 2.4.
Even whitepoint (temperature) is something user should choose for themselves. Generally standards state 6500K so pure white but some people like it warmer or colder (more blueish).

Just keep in mind that the higher brightness the more burn-in will happen so it is probably the best to not make screen super bright.

 

[kasakka]

There is no such thing as recommended brightness. You set it as bright or dim as you like.
Same with gamma, though here generally recommended are values from 2.2 to 2.4.
Even whitepoint (temperature) is something user should choose for themselves. Generally standards state 6500K so pure white but some people like it warmer or colder (more blueish).

Just keep in mind that the higher brightness the more burn-in will happen so it is probably the best to not make screen super bright.

To add to this, OLED Light is the setting that determines the display brightness and the control labeled Brightness should be left as is because it's basically digital brightness and will largely just make the screen less accurate.

So for SDR, use a low OLED light setting. In HDR leave it to 100. In SDR I use something like 20-30 depending on the time of day and find this to be a comfortable brightness level for my room.

 

[Lateralus]

To add to this, OLED Light is the setting that determines the display brightness and the control labeled Brightness should be left as is because it's basically digital brightness and will largely just make the screen less accurate.

So for SDR, use a low OLED light setting. In HDR leave it to 100. In SDR I use something like 20-30 depending on the time of day and find this to be a comfortable brightness level for my room.

YOU MUST LIVE IN A BASEMENT WITH BLACKOUT CURTAINS OVER THE WINDOWS BRO

/s

 

[SoCali]

To add to this, OLED Light is the setting that determines the display brightness and the control labeled Brightness should be left as is because it's basically digital brightness and will largely just make the screen less accurate.

So for SDR, use a low OLED light setting. In HDR leave it to 100. In SDR I use something like 20-30 depending on the time of day and find this to be a comfortable brightness level for my room.

I actually use mine at 10 which is like 80nits and it's too bright at night when it comes to white webpages.

 

[Edogcarey51989]

I actually use mine at 10 which is like 80nits and it's too bright at night when it comes to white webpages.

Coming from an Aorus 43 VA panel, this monitor has been quite the adjustment. I have a history with high end plasmas and after that, LG OLEDs, for console gaming. But when I switched to PC, I started getting into 43 inch 4k monitors, and there are only a couple of the 120hz variety. All of which, especially the gigabyte, are several times brighter than the CX in SDR. Initially I was disappointed with the brightness, especially in game mode which is the only way (yes, even with the input label PC) to get the lowest input lag. My old 55 inch BX OLED has similar brightness, and might even be a little brighter in SDR game mode. While the CX is superior in every other way, it was a little shocking to find this out. Possible I lost the panel lottery with my CX and won it with my BX because the measurements posted on Rtings and elsewhere say otherwise.

To hype game mode up and make it look similar to Sport (my preferred setting for the games I main like Destiny 2 which IMO look best with an exaggerated, extra colorful palette), I set the HDR module to ON for SDR in the service menu and in the 'secret' colorimetry menu, set the colorspace to 'bt2020'. I know, I know, this destroys the image according to any purist. Vncent Teo from HDTV Test made a whole video 'correcting' another youtuber on this topic. But I'm not looking for accuracy right now. I had that for years with professionally calibrated high end plasmas. The oranges/reds are the most far off and I'm looking for a way to get those to look reasonable. Maybe some service menu tweaking for the colors? You don't have fine controls in game mode so that's all I can think of. Anyone else attempted this?

 

[lors]

To hype game mode up and make it look similar to Sport (my preferred setting for the games I main like Destiny 2 which IMO look best with an exaggerated, extra colorful palette), I set the HDR module to ON for SDR in the service menu and in the 'secret' colorimetry menu, set the colorspace to 'bt2020'.

Wait, you actual don't play Destiny 2 in HDR? You play it in SDR with forced BT2020? o_0

 

[Edogcarey51989]

Wait, you actual don't play Destiny 2 in HDR? You play it in SDR with forced BT2020? o_0

HDR in Windows looks weird to me. I don't think they ever fixed it on PC. On console it might be better? Game mode on my CX looks very desaturated, and there's nothing you can do to get the colors any closer to one of the other modes. I was always ok playing games in game mode on my Kuro plasmas. I was used to looking at an unenhanced picture. For some reason, the CX's game mode skews even closer to that. My B6 looks more saturated and hyped in game mode with the wide color space selected and the color saturation dialed up (sorry, previously stated 'BX' while my other OLED is actually the much oled b6, so the brightness deficiency on the CX is considerably more troubling in light of that). Nothing on the CX really get the 'oomph' in the picture that I've become accustomed to now, sans the two tweaks I mentioned. I'm not worried about the longevity of the panel decreasing by running it at its brightest, or about burn in. I just want a picture that's half-way to the light cannon the Aorus was without all the disadvantages of the VA (or any LED) tech. For lowest input latency, guess I'm shit outta luck for a punchier picture with great brightness that isn't WAY off in accuracy until they make an affordable mini-led at 42+ inches. I don't think unlocking the evo panel trick on the C1 makes the 10% extra brightness noticeable in anything but HDR highlights? Anyway, it's a great tv. I just had hoped for more brightness and tweakability in the one mode that matters to me.

 

[SoCali]

Coming from an Aorus 43 VA panel, this monitor has been quite the adjustment. I have a history with high end plasmas and after that, LG OLEDs, for console gaming. But when I switched to PC, I started getting into 43 inch 4k monitors, and there are only a couple of the 120hz variety. All of which, especially the gigabyte, are several times brighter than the CX in SDR. Initially I was disappointed with the brightness, especially in game mode which is the only way (yes, even with the input label PC) to get the lowest input lag. My old 55 inch BX OLED has similar brightness, and might even be a little brighter in SDR game mode. While the CX is superior in every other way, it was a little shocking to find this out. Possible I lost the panel lottery with my CX and won it with my BX because the measurements posted on Rtings and elsewhere say otherwise.

To hype game mode up and make it look similar to Sport (my preferred setting for the games I main like Destiny 2 which IMO look best with an exaggerated, extra colorful palette), I set the HDR module to ON for SDR in the service menu and in the 'secret' colorimetry menu, set the colorspace to 'bt2020'. I know, I know, this destroys the image according to any purist. Vncent Teo from HDTV Test made a whole video 'correcting' another youtuber on this topic. But I'm not looking for accuracy right now. I had that for years with professionally calibrated high end plasmas. The oranges/reds are the most far off and I'm looking for a way to get those to look reasonable. Maybe some service menu tweaking for the colors? You don't have fine controls in game mode so that's all I can think of. Anyone else attempted this?

Any picture mode gets you game mode input lag as long as VRR is enabled. Game mode looks disgusting in terms of greyscale/color accuracy so I use ISF Darkroom which basically requires 0 calibration and looks 100x better to me. With Gsync enabled it's input lag is the same as game mode.

I use this as a monitor and value accuracy for the SDR content I consume so what you consider desaturated (sRGB) is what I'm after because using any other color space makes everyones skin tone like Donald Trump and otherwise completely blows out colors. The red title bars of this forum outside of sRGB look really bad for example.

When you want the color pop, that's what HDR content is for.

 

[madpistol]

I watched Linus's most recent video on the new 48" OLED Gigabyte monitor, and he talked about ultrawide resolutions on that monitor being an option. So I decided to try a custom 3840x1600 @ 120hz on my LG CX 55, and wouldn't you believe it... it actually works! Not sure when LG fixed this, but yea... Ultrawide resolutions now work.

I was like "Nah... it can't be this easy." So I fired up Doom Eternal maxed out 3840x1600, HDR, etc.... and holy beejebus it works.

 

[lors]

I watched Linus's most recent video on the new 48" OLED Gigabyte monitor, and he talked about ultrawide resolutions on that monitor being an option. So I decided to try a custom 3840x1600 @ 120hz on my LG CX 55, and wouldn't you believe it... it actually works! Not sure when LG fixed this, but yea... Ultrawide resolutions now work.

I was like "Nah... it can't be this easy." So I fired up Doom Eternal maxed out 3840x1600, HDR, etc.... and holy beejebus it works.

Yeah, on my C1 i don't even use native 4K for gaming anymore if i have the choice. I also kinda like 3840*1800.

 

[Edogcarey51989]

Any picture mode gets you game mode input lag as long as VRR is enabled. Game mode looks disgusting in terms of greyscale/color accuracy so I use ISF Darkroom which basically requires 0 calibration and looks 100x better to me. With Gsync enabled it's input lag is the same as game mode.

I use this as a monitor and value accuracy for the SDR content I consume so what you consider desaturated (sRGB) is what I'm after because using any other color space makes everyones skin tone like Donald Trump and otherwise completely blows out colors. The red title bars of this forum outside of sRGB look really bad for example.

When you want the color pop, that's what HDR content is for.

I don't use Gsync. Never saw the need for it pushing a consistent ~ 120 fps at 4k.

Game mode has lower input lag with it off than any other mode. It may only be 3-4 ms but in competitive shooters, it is noticeable.

 

[SoCali]

I don't use Gsync. Never saw the need for it pushing a consistent ~ 120 fps at 4k.

Game mode has lower input lag with it off than any other mode. It may only be 3-4 ms but in competitive shooters, it is noticeable.

I give up.

 

[kalston]

I've seen people test it with appropriate equipment (like jorimt, who is behind many of blurbusters' articles) and ISF (or any other mode) does have a bit of lag vs game mode but it was only one frame on a PC, so very little at 120hz (~8ms).

But it still felt noticeable to me at least when playing a 60fps locked game with g-sync. Happened to me a couple times that I forgot to switch and it hit me.

The two modes don't look noticeably different at all on my unit (I copied the ISF settings, that's it) so I stick with game mode for everything except when I want 2.4 gamma (many SDR blu-rays), then I'll use ISF.

 

[lors]

Strange. I'm always using PC-mode and Game-mode and both my C9 and C1 look identical in game-mode compared to other modes if i use in the same settings, even before i started to calibrate my OLEDs with Calman Home + x-rite i1display pro plus.

 

[kasakka]

I've seen people test it with appropriate equipment (like jorimt, who is behind many of blurbusters' articles) and ISF (or any other mode) does have a bit of lag vs game mode but it was only one frame on a PC, so very little at 120hz (~8ms).

But it still felt noticeable to me at least when playing a 60fps locked game with g-sync. Happened to me a couple times that I forgot to switch and it hit me.

The two modes don't look noticeably different at all on my unit (I copied the ISF settings, that's it) so I stick with game mode for everything except when I want 2.4 gamma (many SDR blu-rays), then I'll use ISF.

Yeah I tested game vs other modes in Doom Eternal on my CX and to me the game mode felt slightly more responsive. I just stick to game mode and like you use the ISF settings there so they look largely the same to me, no complaints about image quality. I just use game mode for literally everything because I can't be bothered to change them with my PC based on use case.

In the living room C9 the built in apps are configured for ISF and consoles for game mode.

 

[SoCali]

There is a huge difference in input lag between game mode and any other mode with VRR off. Enable VRR (auto game mode/auto low latency or whatever) and the difference vanishes.

You can quickly test this yourself. Mouse is super laggy in ISF dark without VRR but enabling VRR disables all processing and gets you the benefit of ISF modes calibration.

My TVs game mode has some nasty green tint to greyscale that's visible on explorer windows (dark mode). Dealing with displaycal and the 50 different sensor profiles for an WOLED panel is annoying when ISF modes exist and take care of it all.

 

[Lateralus]

Because it's been a while, remind me again if there was a fix for the flickering/flashing in dark scenes (or at least that's where it's really noticable) with G-Sync on? I only noticed it in one game recently, when I played through the enhanced Quake update. Disabling G-Sync immediately fixed it and of course the gameplay didn't feel any different because it was hitting my frame cap anyway. When I did a search on the issue, I found a few pages discussing it and the general consensus is it's an issue with many/most/all? G-Sync displays. Is that the case?

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

Because it's been a while, remind me again if there was a fix for the flickering/flashing in dark scenes (or at least that's where it's really noticable) with G-Sync on? I only noticed it in one game recently, when I played through the enhanced Quake update. Disabling G-Sync immediately fixed it and of course the gameplay didn't feel any different because it was hitting my frame cap anyway. When I did a search on the issue, I found a few pages discussing it and the general consensus is it's an issue with many/most/all? G-Sync displays. Is that the case?

It's definitely still an issue. Particularly if your frame rate is fluctuating a lot. Flight Sim is a good torture test. If you take a night flight over a particularly GPU intensive area you would think there's a lightning storm going on because the sky is flashing. Very annoying.

I don't recall ever seeing this near-black flashing on my Predator X34. I only started to notice it after I switched to OLED. Maybe it's just much more pronounced on OLED displays?

Disclaimer: I have not attempted to mess with the black level equalizer settings, so perhaps the flashing can be improved.

 

[lors]

It's definitely still an issue. Particularly if your frame rate is fluctuating a lot. Flight Sim is a good torture test. If you take a night flight over a particularly GPU intensive area you would think there's a lightning storm going on because the sky is flashing. Very annoying.

A frame rate with (a lot) fluctuation isn't the problem, it's about bad frametimes. These very quick hiccups are causing a rapid gamma shift of the OLED sub-pixels which is noticable as gamma flickering. The reason for this can you read here at 1:18:




While using VRR in a game with a dark scene, compare 60FPS vs 120FPS. You can see the lifted blacks at 60FPS because of the overcharged OLED sub-pixel and therefore inconsistent gamma curve at 60Hz. "fine tune dark area" or "blacks stabilizer" can fix the lifted blacks, but only if you play at a locked frame rate. As soon as it gets variable it can't work anymore. Lets see if LG can fix this completely in 2022 by adding multiple gamma curves for lower refresh rates. It needs a hardware fix btw, not possible by software.

I mainly only see VRR flickering at dark loadings screens in some games, but there are a few games which can trigger it also ingame pretty well. Last game where i saw annoying ingame flickering was "The Medium" (because there was a frame time hiccup exactly every 4 seconds).

The best solution to prevent flickering atm is to set the display to 60Hz, because you basically also cap the range of overcharged - not overcharged state of the sub-pixel with this method (In other words, you force the OLED sub-pixel into a permanent overcharge state).

 

[elvn]

Because it's been a while, remind me again if there was a fix for the flickering/flashing in dark scenes (or at least that's where it's really noticable) with G-Sync on? I only noticed it in one game recently, when I played through the enhanced Quake update. Disabling G-Sync immediately fixed it and of course

When I did a search on the issue, I found a few pages discussing it and the general consensus is it's an issue with many/most/all? G-Sync displays. Is that the case?

I'm surprised that it happened in Quake because on a modern gaming rig I'd think that game's minimum frame rate would be above 120fps so would be a solid graph with no dips. Did you try capping the frame rate at 115fpsHz with VRR on? If it's frame rate is way over the top to begin with, you shouldn't really need VRR in the first place and could just cap it at 115fps.

Disabling G-Sync immediately fixed it and of course the gameplay didn't feel any different because it was hitting my frame cap anyway.

Did you manually cap it at 115fps using RTSS or nvidia control panel?

Enhanced quake's advertising also states enhanced colored lighting (not ray tracing) and Depth of Field, AA.

Quake Remaster features widescreen resolution support, enhanced models, dynamic and colored lighting, anti-aliasing, and depth of field.

Have you tried disabling some of those settings to see if there is any difference? That game just dropped recently I think, like 1 or 2 days ago. It could be something particular to that game if you aren't noticing it in other games to that degree. Maybe the DoF or how they render their lighting (or both) .. or something. I'd definitely test out other games.

-------------

It's definitely still an issue. Particularly if your frame rate is fluctuating a lot. Flight Sim is a good torture test. If you take a night flight over a particularly GPU intensive area you would think there's a lightning storm going on because the sky is flashing. Very annoying.

I don't recall ever seeing this near-black flashing on my Predator X34. I only started to notice it after I switched to OLED. Maybe it's just much more pronounced on OLED displays?

Disclaimer: I have not attempted to mess with the black level equalizer settings, so perhaps the flashing can be improved.

Flight sim on the other hand is one I'd expect to have drastic frame rate fluctuations ("torture test") that turn into a slide show. "GPU intensive areas". Any game with extreme line of sight rendered (especially with objects/effects rendered in extreme distance, animated objects, etc).. can crawl. That's why corridor shooters can be so optimized and run faster or have higher graphics detail by comparison.

----------------

Lets see if LG can fix this completely in 2022 by adding multiple gamma curves for lower refresh rates. It needs a hardware fix btw, not possible by software.

best solution to prevent flickering atm is to set the display to 60Hz, because you basically also cap the range of overcharged - not overcharged state of the sub-pixel with this method (In other words, you force the OLED sub-pixel into a permanent overcharge state).

--------------------

If you keep your frame rate on the high end it shouldn't be as aggressive.

like:

100fpsHz Average

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<----------100fpsHz --------->>>>> 115 capped

Or better yet 110 - 115fpsHz average:

(85) 100fpsHz <<<------------------- 115fpsHz --------------->>>> 115capped


I realize this eliminates much of the variable Hz range most people use variable Hz for in the first place but it still allows that fluctuation without having to keep a 120fpsHz MINIMUM which is much more demanding than even the high fpsHz average rate's spans I posted.

Those are a big difference from something like 80fpsHz average:

(50) 65fpsHz <<<<<------------- 80 fpsHz ---------------->>>> 95fpsHz (110)


You could do a 60fps CAP using a frame rate that has a 60fps minimum (which would be 60Hz on the display) too, or set the display to 60hz but I'm not interested in 60hz gameplay when I can get higher. I'm also not interested in VRR ranging BELOW 60fpsHz which is why I suggested minimums with cap instead of free ranging.

You could also experiment with setting a FPS cap on a per game basis (with RTSS or nvidia control panel) at whatever minimum frame rate you are capable of on that particular game (avoiding using VRR). The idea of VRR is that people can use poorer frame rates though essentially, in order to experience higher graphics with some moderate fluctiation. Personally I love VRR but I avoid going into the shallow end of the pool for the lower 1/3 of the graph.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

What "console 4k" games do is dynamically change the resolution (down) when you hit intense areas of action/gpu stress instead of letting the frame rate take an instant nose dive and crash. That along with more limited view distances, less objects in scene than pc (e.g. crowds), maybe some lower textures, etc. Also checkerboarding. There are some pc games that have dynamic resolution available. I'm not a huge fan of it but it would allow you to set a frame rate priority so you aren't fluctuating into the garbage end of frame rates in the shallow end of the pool where it's more like a molasses slide show.

Like has been said it's not just that you find yourself in on the rocks~in the molasses with slower frames... it's also the abrupt changes in altitude. The more normalized that slope is and the less drastic the range of changes in altitude are, the less obvious any black depth changes should be. That can be achieved by keeping a higher frame rate in general with a VRR range that is nearer to the peak Hz of the screen, but capped.

-----------------------------------------------

TLDR: Some games (and user settings) have drastic frame rate crashing and perhaps other design issues that aggravate VRR vs black depth. The gamma on the LG CX is set for 120hz so set RTSS or nvidia control panel to 115fpsHz cap (or 117) and try to keep your frame rate graph touching that peak or exceeding it (on the high end ) so that the low end isn't drastically slower (and paler).

 

[Lateralus]

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

The best solution to prevent flickering atm is to set the display to 60Hz, because you basically also cap the range of overcharged - not overcharged state of the sub-pixel with this method (In other words, you force the OLED sub-pixel into a permanent overcharge state).

I'm sure it depends on the game and personal preference but I think if it was a game where I could achieve >60fps I'd rather set it to 120Hz and live without VRR/G-Sync. If it's an extremely demanding game where you're struggling to maintain 60fps, your suggestion might be preferable though.

I'm surprised that it happened in Quake because on a modern gaming rig I'd think that game's minimum frame rate would be above 120fps so would be a solid graph with no dips. Did you try capping the frame rate at 115fpsHz with VRR on? If it's frame rate is way over the top to begin with, you shouldn't really need VRR in the first place and could just cap it at 115fps.

I set a frame rate cap of 117fps in RTSS. Fully agree with the part that I bolded!

Did you manually cap it at 115fps using RTSS or nvidia control panel?

See above.

Have you tried disabling some of those settings to see if there is any difference? That game just dropped recently I think, like 1 or 2 days ago. It could be something particular to that game if you aren't noticing it in other games to that degree. Maybe the DoF or how they render their lighting (or both) .. or something. I'd definitely test out other games.

I have not. But yeah, I play a lot of dark/horror games and Quake was the first one I noticed it in. I played through the Quake II RTX update which has lots of dark corridors/crawlspaces and didn't notice anything like this in that game. Odd, but thankfully the frame rate was so high that I didn't miss out on anything by disabling G-Sync.

 

[lors]

If you keep your frame rate on the high end it shouldn't be as aggressive.

That doesn't matter from my experience. Even with >100 FPS average you can still have annoying VRR-flickering due to frametime issues. 90-93-85-95-100-110 FPS *frametime hiccup occurs* and suddenly it goes down to 60fps or even lower for a split of a second. But not every game has to have perfect frametimes to be flicker free. Watch Dogs Legion didn't have good frametimes either, especially if you drove through the city. It actually also felt very stuttery in these situations because VRR can't compensate stuttering due to bad frametimes, but surprisingly I never saw VRR-flickering in this game.

I'm sure it depends on the game and personal preference but I think if it was a game where I could achieve >60fps I'd rather set it to 120Hz and live without VRR/G-Sync. If it's an extremely demanding game where you're struggling to maintain 60fps, your suggestion might be preferable though.

There are three things I absolutely hate the most to see while gaming: DSE, stuttering and flickering. If i encounter a game with ingame flickering and it could only be fixed by setting the display to 60Hz or disabling VRR, I would definitely play at 60Hz + VRR instead of 60-85FPS without VRR + 120Hz for example. But that is just my preference.