LG 48CX

Advil said:
The first thing I did to my 3080 FTW3 was to manually create a voltage curve that was more sane. The card gets slightly higher clocks than stock at substantially less voltage. Win-win. It's 100% stable. All the video card makers are overvolting the 3000 series to hell and gone for no good reason. It is exactly the same concept as overclocking a Ryzen 5000 CPU. You call for less voltage and higher clocks at a given voltage.

Also, Nvidia CP has had a frame rate cap for a while now. Just USE it. It is functional on nearly every title and capping a few FPS below 120 (I use 116 or 117) does nothing but good things for GSYNC on practically every game. Set it and forget it.

You don't really have to worry after that, but it's still good practice to set the FPS limit in every game anyway... just in case. Some games have fixed numbers like 120, and then the Nvidia CP setting holds it below that anyway. If the game allows Fixing the frame rate a few under 120, just do that.

If the game is some kind of outlier that somehow bypasses all frame rate limits on the menus... that's pretty bad. Skip playing games that do that.
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I've capped my frame rate for years using rtss though nvidia's version no longer has increased latency compared to rtss now so I can use that. From some reports that was NOT enough to prevent some of the cards bricking on some games though.

I haven't undervolted yet. I never had to on my 1080ti sc hybrids (AiOs) in sli. I just upgraded to an aorus 3090 recently. From what I've been reading I'll prob go with the undervolting route.
 
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For the 3080 and 3090 I absolutely would. It takes a little bit to get the curve sorted out but it'll make a big difference to power consumption, heat, and hopefully longevity. And you'll get more performance anyway so there's just not a down side.

Even the 1080, 1080 Ti etc didn't have the kind of power draw and heat issues the 3080 and 3090 cards have. They're way hotter in general at "stock".

You can knock 20-50w off the power consumption... without sacrificing performance.
 
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So it seems my LG 48CX has decided to drop back down to 60Hz after running fine for a good while at 120Hz. I did "upgrade" the initial cable to one that did not have that issue, but am wondering what it might be now.

Any ideas on trouble shooting this? Try another cable? If so, what is the go-to cable now for this display?
 
I "think" I'm using a zesskit 8k 120hz cable, the heavy braided one, Short. Biggest issues I had for a while was occasional dropping of handshake in Gsync AND 120hz where it would like to flash the image until I restarted the comp or screen.

Interestingly, somewhere over the last few firmware updates that problem seems to be completely gone.

Also, I do run the modded monitor file to allow 12bit.

But at the moment, all is smooth with this.

I suspect the cable has to be completely perfect for 120hz to work. Makes me wonder what we are going to do for standards when we need 8k 120hz.
 
FrgMstr said:
So it seems my LG 48CX has decided to drop back down to 60Hz after running fine for a good while at 120Hz. I did "upgrade" the initial cable to one that did not have that issue, but am wondering what it might be now.

Any ideas on trouble shooting this? Try another cable? If so, what is the go-to cable now for this display?
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1628618350723.png
 
Advil said:
I "think" I'm using a zesskit 8k 120hz cable, the heavy braided one, Short. Biggest issues I had for a while was occasional dropping of handshake in Gsync AND 120hz where it would like to flash the image until I restarted the comp or screen.

Interestingly, somewhere over the last few firmware updates that problem seems to be completely gone.

Also, I do run the modded monitor file to allow 12bit.

But at the moment, all is smooth with this.

I suspect the cable has to be completely perfect for 120hz to work. Makes me wonder what we are going to do for standards when we need 8k 120hz.
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1628618429971.png
 
FrgMstr said:
View attachment 383507
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I have tried about every combination of settings I can configure and I cannot get it to see above 60Hz....again when it used to work fine with this cable.

One thing I can't see to get to turn off is "Instant Game Response." Even toggled to the off position it still launches according to the menu pop-up on-screen.
 
Advil said:
I "think" I'm using a zesskit 8k 120hz cable, the heavy braided one, Short. Biggest issues I had for a while was occasional dropping of handshake in Gsync AND 120hz where it would like to flash the image until I restarted the comp or screen.

Interestingly, somewhere over the last few firmware updates that problem seems to be completely gone.

Also, I do run the modded monitor file to allow 12bit.

But at the moment, all is smooth with this.

I suspect the cable has to be completely perfect for 120hz to work. Makes me wonder what we are going to do for standards when we need 8k 120hz.
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Well, just went ahead and ordered one for delivery today. Want to get to the bottom of this.
 
FrgMstr said:
Well, just went ahead and ordered one for delivery today. Want to get to the bottom of this.
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Are you still seeing 3840x2160 @ 120Hz as an available resolution, and the TV just won't lock on, or is it unavailable entirely?

Also - tried a driver reinstall for S&Gs?
 
Lateralus said:
Are you still seeing 3840x2160 @ 120Hz as an available resolution, and the TV just won't lock on, or is it unavailable entirely?

Also - tried a driver reinstall for S&Gs?
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Wow, you are effin sheeting me. Yep, it was set to 60 in the Windows display control panel. No reasoning why that had changed.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE KICK IN THE ASS ON THAT!

1628621625214.png
 
FrgMstr said:
Wow, you are effin sheeting me. Yep, it was set to 60 in the Windows display control panel. No reasoning why that had changed.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE KICK IN THE ASS ON THAT!

View attachment 383521
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I've had that happen as well. It's really confusing until you realize there's a set of resolutions for TV and a separate set for PC.
 
Glad you figured it out. I thought it was something with your cable or that you were running a custom timing/bit file like someone mentioned as the reason that wouldn't let the system see it as 120hz - so I didn't even think that it could be that you had missed a settings panel selection that might have defaulted.

I was very happy to see that same panel when I first connected my 3000 series gpu a few weeks ago. I got that same panel you screenshotted, set it to 120Hz and screen shotted it myself then (mine was on HDR color space setting though). It was a milestone getting hdmi 2.1 bandwidth.

Also this one for hdmi 2.1 VRR:

jakcBw4.png


................................................................................

I haven't bothered to catch the TV's instant game response message on camera yet. The mode changes that blink the whole screen when instant game response and/or HDR metadata kick in are annoying, almost like degaussing or resetting an old CRT... and they are even more annoying if you ever bounce back and forth from them (minimizing a full screen HDR game for example) since they might blink on and off more than once until they settle in... but it's worth it for the end results. I'd rather just run VRR and HDR all the time seamlessly. I mean, I do for HDR but it's at the windows HDR color setting. Even with HDR enabled all of the time on the desktop - when a HDR title kicks in it reads that title's metadata, blinks the screen to that metadata mode and shows the HDR mode message pop-up (sometimes more than once). I was hoping windows 11 made this more seamless, at least for HDR, but I haven't heard anything about that yet. I'm still using windows 10.

It's annoying but usable. It's hasn't progressed much from the old days when you'd have very harsh mode changing and verrrry clunky fullscreen mode switching that was almost like system stalling, crossing fingers while the screen blinked a bunch of times and hoped it didn't get stuck on a black screen lol. . Windowed + fullscreen mode helped with that for awhile but now I'm back to clunky mode switching and with new modes I guess.
 
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Anyone started noticing flashing/blinking at 120hz? Fired up some stellaris and dark parts blink/dim like they can't figure out what brightness to stay at. 60hz works fine but now that Im looking for it I see it other games also that have dark ui
 
elvn said:
I haven't bothered to catch the TV's instant game response message on camera yet. The mode changes that blink the whole screen when instant game response and/or HDR metadata kick in are annoying, almost like degaussing or resetting an old CRT... and they are even more annoying if you ever bounce back and forth from them (minimizing a full screen HDR game for example) since they might blink on and off more than once until they settle in... but it's worth it for the end results. I'd rather just run VRR and HDR all the time seamlessly. I mean, I do for HDR but it's at the windows HDR color setting. Even with HDR enabled all of the time on the desktop - when a HDR title kicks in it reads that title's metadata, blinks the screen to that metadata mode and shows the HDR mode message pop-up (sometimes more than once). I was hoping windows 11 made this more seamless, at least for HDR, but I haven't heard anything about that yet. I'm still using windows 10.

It's annoying but usable. It's hasn't progressed much from the old days when you'd have very harsh mode changing and verrrry clunky fullscreen mode switching that was almost like system stalling, crossing fingers while the screen blinked a bunch of times and hoped it didn't get stuck on a black screen lol. . Windowed + fullscreen mode helped with that for awhile but now I'm back to clunky mode switching and with new modes I guess.
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Still doing that huh? I've had HDR disabled on my B6P for exactly this reason.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was "just" application switching, but HDR also blinks on/off when the windows UI (volume indicator, game bar, etc.) comes up, regardless of what mode Windows is running in.

I know Windows 11 is apparently adding some sort of HDR emulation for non-HDR titles. If this has the effect of allowing *everything* to output as HDR (avoiding the above issue) then HDR might "finally" be usable. But for now, I'm not touching it due to all the problems.
 
gamerk2 said:
Still doing that huh? I've had HDR disabled on my B6P for exactly this reason.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was "just" application switching, but HDR also blinks on/off when the windows UI (volume indicator, game bar, etc.) comes up, regardless of what mode Windows is running in.

I know Windows 11 is apparently adding some sort of HDR emulation for non-HDR titles. If this has the effect of allowing *everything* to output as HDR (avoiding the above issue) then HDR might "finally" be usable. But for now, I'm not touching it due to all the problems.
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There are ways to disable that volume slider with an app that hides it but ymmv.

I do have a usb master control knob though too, drok. I had that before I got a relatively cheap "mini" midi board. The drok usb volume buton also acts as a giant mute button. When using the drok or any other adjuster to the main/global system volume, that windows app volume overlay will show up like you were saying and it does screw up the hdr mode.

I personally use a little usb midi board with sliders and knobs along with powermixer app to map my most used apps each to a slider that I label with labeling tape and a white or black paint pen. I keep some knobs on the top row for whatever games I'm playing at the moment. Those are the only ones I ever really change. It's very easy to map any app volume to the midi value/# of each slider or knob. In this way I can adjust different app volumes separately and without dropping out of a game or whatever else I'm doing, and without invoking that windows master volume overlay window

------------------------------------------------

I still get HDR switching when running HDR metadata content and a notification window pops up, or if I pause a fullscreen exclusive game and minimize it obviously. That's what I meant about the trade-off. I also get the VRR message every time the game initializes or re-initializes, min/restored. It's worth it for the end result but it takes me back to the days where everything had to be full screen exclusive and you couldn't just hit the windows key to then page your mouse off of a windowed+fullscreen game. At least I don't have to reboot to DOS mode to play a HDR + VRR game ;)

To me, HDR and VRR in game are definitely worth the mode switching inconvenience but it is definitely clunky and not optimal.

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What you said about windows adding HDR emulation is interesting but I doubt it will have the global seamless mode changing effect you are outlining. I'm guessing it will be more like when I used Reshade with FakeHDR filter + lightroom filter to make Darksiders3 look something like "SDR plus". It would be great if they could make the modes seamless or always on w/o clunky switching though. Kind of like when they made g-sync work with windowed+fullscreen and windowed modes so you didn't have to be fullscreen exclusive.
 
elvn said:
There are ways to disable that volume slider with an app that hides it but ymmv.
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Hiding the volume bar still causes the issue; believe me, I went down that rabbit hole.

Interestingly, I got a new firmware for the B6P today, and I updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers recently. So far, the HDR switching issue seems to be solved. Still testing though.

EDIT

Nope; works fine on desktop, but still broken in HDR games. Pretty much anything that invokes the Windows UI overlay causes Windows to drop back to SDR.
 
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Sadly I have too many bugs and issues with HDR as well. Heck I just got a "fresh" bug in the last couple of months where the Netflix app stutters like hell with HDR enabled only. It worked perfectly fine before...

I am not actually consuming that much HDR content right now though and some of it is really poorly mastered so I don't actually care much, yet. But doesn't change that HDR is the future and I would like to see more progress on that front when it comes to software (hardware too of course but that is already going well IMO).
 
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I played "Jedi: Fallen Order" (on jedi knight 2nd hardest difficulty with the hud turned off via ini edit), in HDR and then I played Nioh2 in HDR. Both looked amazing in HDR on the OLED. I then used Reshade on Darksiders3 (on the highest difficulty). I used FakeHDR filter, Ligthroom filter, and a rendering filter to great effect to give a quasi-HDR look (at least SDR plus luminance) on that SDR game. I also turned the color setting in the TV's OSD in game mode up considerably and then edited it from there with the lightroom filter to help achieve that end result. After that I started playing "Immortals: Fenyx Rising" which is something like a BreathOfTheWild design combined with a souls-like combat on the hardest difficulty. The HDR in that game is gorgeous. I did use Reshade to tone down the fog like ~haze effect that game uses though. I also got AC:eek:dyssey on sale pretty cheap and the HDR on that game is supposed to be great too, whenever I get through Fenyx to play that one.

All three of the HDR games I played and am playing were well worth the HDR mode switching clunkiness. The VRR message box pops up between desktop and VRR modes too, don't forget. Unless I'm missing something in how to make that always on.

So to me, the end result is well worth the clunky mode switching but of course it would be great if someday they could make it more seamless.

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gamerk2 said:
Hiding the volume bar still causes the issue; believe me, I went down that rabbit hole.

Interestingly, I got a new firmware for the B6P today, and I updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers recently. So far, the HDR switching issue seems to be solved. Still testing though.

EDIT

Nope; works fine on desktop, but still broken in HDR games. Pretty much anything that invokes the Windows UI overlay causes Windows to drop back to SDR.
Click to expand...

You can get a relatively cheap usb midi board and assign your game and your most use apps that have audio to it's sliders or knobs. It's really easy to do, trust me. It's one drop down to select volume and another to select the # value of whichever slider you want to assign it to on the midi board. Then you can adjust their volumes individually and leave the master volume alone.


There are two main apps, and you can prob use obs or voicemeter or something too but I haven't looked into that. While it supports midi mapping, I don't think voicementer does surround sound and I don't like the way it lists the volume apps in a small area with only a few showing - so I don't use that one. There are probably some other ways but the two I linked below are probably the easiest way. After they are mapped initially you can minimize the mapping app and just use the sliders/knobs. You never have to map another knob or slider again unless/until you want to add a new game or a new app someday.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

How to set your app volumes to midi device sliders/knobs:
================================================


Old powermixer app. Simple but works great:





A more modern app that does the same thing essentially, with a few added features:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are tiny controllers like the Korg NanoKontrol2 (~$75) and a few other minis (novation launch control 16 is one among other "portable" midi mixers).

but at my desk I've used an akai midimix usb board (~ $100)

or a novation launch control XL (~ $150).

I keep the square style boards mounted on a plastic mount made for holding a book for reading. That or an angled laptop tray work pretty good so that they are angled toward you slightly.

They all should work but you get what you pay for in the quality of the knobs and sliders and overall board. I think the novation ones are a little better though pricier.



edit: I use these to make labels for the sliders and knobs...

6 Pack 6mm 1/4 Inch Width Graphic Art Tape Adhesive Artist Tape, Whiteboards Chart PET Thin Tape, 216 Feet Long per Roll (Multicolor - 1/4 Inch)

PANDAFLY White Paint Pens, 8 Pack 0.7mm Acrylic Permanent Marker 6 White With 2 Black Paint Pens for Wood Rock Plastic Leather Glass Stone Metal Canvas Ceramic, Extra Fine Point Opaque Ink


Another edit:
You can probably use some of the extra functions downloadable for stream deck LCD button devices to map vol up and vol down keys for individual apps too but I don't find that device the best choice for volume changing. It works great for play/pause fwd/next last/back, mute, etc but not for massaging volumes up/down, at least to my tastes compared to using a slider or knob. You could probably set a single button to % volumes like 25% 50% 100% toggle/cycle though with a single vol cycle button per app if you wanted to go that route, with a mute for that app near it.
 
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How do I disable "The Instant game response is enabled" message that continually appears in the top right of the screen?
 
Both mode switches do that at times. HDR metadata and VRR whenever you switch in/out of them. They don't happen continually but they do happen regularly as in whenever the mode switches on or off.

If I'm remembering correctly, that includes:
... launching, minimizing, or closing a game (VRR notification overlay)
... launching, minimizing, or closing a HDR game or other HDR metadata content (HDR mode notification overlay).
.... also happens if you invoke the windows master volume control while running HDR content because it has an overlay that robs the focus from your game. I avoid that using midi sliders for each of my most used audio apps and browsers and a few knobs mapped to whatever games I'm currently playing. Very easy to set up if you have any small usb midi board/device.

The effect is a clunky mode transition something like changing your screen resolution. So if you consider VRR and HDR like changing resolution it might make more sense.

So once the game is running the messages go away until you minimize or close the game (or rarely if some notification pops up from windows or some other app, stealing the focus away).


It would be nice if you could keep VRR mode on all of the time on the desktop so it would never switch on and off. In some g-sync monitors, the dedicated g-sync modules would run hot. Some even had active fan cooling and the hot running g-sync modules could fail from the wear and tear of the heat. So some people would run the desktop at a lower Hz than when they were gaming by setting the hz for 3d modes as higher in the nvidia control panel, in order to not be burning up the g-sync module when outside of games. I don't know if always on would be a concern with g-sync compatible hdmi VRR on the LG CX since it's not actually using a g-sync module. If it's no concern than I'd rather just leave VRR/instant game response on all of the time to eliminate at least one mode switch and notification overlay if they ever made that possible.

That said I have to say again that the end result of having VRR and HDR on the LG CX is well worth the clunky mode switch when launching (and closing) the title.

It would be great if they could make it more seamless eventually though. Just being able to turn off the notification overlays would be nice but I don't think it would solve the problem. The mode switching would still trigger screen blanking clunkiness when changing modes, kind of like changing resolutions.
 
Hi Everyone. Can the CX do 4:4:4 and BFI at the same time? Can the C1? (I had read something regarding the latter that appeared to be suggesting the contrary.)
 
Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.
 
SH1 said:
Hi Everyone. Can the CX do 4:4:4 and BFI at the same time? Can the C1? (I had read something regarding the latter that appeared to be suggesting the contrary.)
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Yes, BFI is just something the TV does, nothing is included in the signal (and therefore no specific amount of bandwidth is needed for it). The only time you can't use BFI is with VRR.
 
ChronoDetector said:
Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.
Click to expand...
No problems like that here with an EVGA 3090. Most reports of blanking/lost signal have been cable related. I’m not saying that’s your issue obviously, but it hasn’t been a widely reported or observed trend relating to 3000 series GPUs in this thread.
 
ChronoDetector said:
Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.
Click to expand...

Yes I had this problem with my 3090, first boot into Windows always results in a black screen. Only way to fix it was to hold down the power button then turn the PC back on and it would always boot up into Windows the 2nd time around. Lol funny enough I actually did the opposite of you and sold my 3090 while keeping the 6900 XT. Prices of GPUs have gone back up due to crypto rising again so I was able to snag a hefty profit on my 3090, and with my 6900 XT being absolutely flawless on my CX so far this past month it just made my decision to keep it even easier. Here is my quote from Jan 4th 2021 mentioning this issue.

MistaSparkul said:
So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?
Click to expand...
 
ChronoDetector said:
Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.
Click to expand...

I had the same exact problem on my 3090 and C9. There would always be a black screen on cold-boot but would be fine if I turned off the system and turned it back on again (or unplugged the HDMI cable & plugged it back in again).

It's a BIOS/windows issue and is fixable. I forgot the exact fix, but:

-Disable any type of "Fast Boot" or whatever in Windows 10
(https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup)
-Disable CSM in your BIOS (don't think I had to do this one)

Haven't had an issue ever since.
 
So far I bought another HDMI 2.1 cable and the problem stopped, for now. I tested it by turning on and off my PC several times and so far it has successfully booted into Windows without any black screen/no signal issues.

I previously tried disabling fast boot and that didn't solve the issue, disabling CSM rendered by system unbootable as it disabled my drives.

But thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
 
elvn said:
It would be great if they could make it more seamless eventually though. Just being able to turn off the notification overlays would be nice but I don't think it would solve the problem. The mode switching would still trigger screen blanking clunkiness when changing modes, kind of like changing resolutions.
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The easiest fix would be to make the Windows UI (volume bar, game overlay, etc.) follow the system HDR settings, which would solve one of the biggest issues. The other would be to just force the system to follow HDR/VRR system wide.
 
Got a PS5 a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, I fired up Spider Man Miles Morales for the first time, and let me tell you... the game looks stupid good on my CX 55. Mind blowingly good. HDR looks incredible!
 
madpistol said:
Got a PS5 a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, I fired up Spider Man Miles Morales for the first time, and let me tell you... the game looks stupid good on my CX 55. Mind blowingly good. HDR looks incredible!
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Yeah it looks pretty good. HDR is handled really well on the PS5, at least in my experience.
 
3.23.25 out for a week or so now on KR site and now on the US and CAN sites as of yesterday.

Generic useless release note - bug fixes and improvements as usual. But hey, new build and new build date. No way to turn off annoying notifications and HDR/SDR mode switching screen blinking intact now just like 18-20 months ago. Woo hoo.
 
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Again................ Not even a "PLEASE" this time LG. Make the "Game Response has Launched" notification SMALLER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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petrthomas said:
The only obvious explanation is that they do not want these to be utilised for computer purposes.
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"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity." It is more likely that someone was tasked with making the game response setup with a spec that the user should be notified so the obvious thing is to just use WebOS standard notifications for that. Being a TV, those need to be decently sized to be visible from the sofa. No, they did not change a single thing for the 48" model in that regard.
 
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