LG 48CX

[elvn]

The only reason I finally decided to pull the trigger on such an expensive screen was because when I got the CX from Costco they were offering a combination of solid warranties (for free) that came out to SEVEN YEARS.

I honestly don't expect the set to be trouble free that long. So at some point... we will find out. Or at least it will help cover the next display when the time comes.

Or... it will be trouble free for a decade. Which will be fine too.

Compared to any other ~4k-ish , 120hz+ VRR gaming capable screens with suitable high density FALD or OLED per pixel emissive array for true HDR capability... the 48" LG gaming screens are actually more affordable. Their hdmi 2.1 is also more compatible (than most other "gaming screens") with the latest console's 120hz as well providing the bandwidth for full 4k 120hz 444 10 bit from a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu.

A 48" 4k screen is around ~ 41.8" across left to right. So that's roughly equivalent to a 45.3" diagonal 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution screen when in 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution/mode too. That equates to a 17.4" tall viewable in uw 3840x1600 resolution. For comparison, the neo G9 VA's entire screen is 14.3" tall with a 5120x1440 resolution (3840+1280, or +640 px each side by comparison).

I'm not saying it's not "expensive" but the 48" OLEDs are a lot cheaper than the few alternatives with similar capabilities and give more performance as an overall screen at that.

 

[elvn]

Some info from the samsung neo g9 Rtings review regarding black flashing and their attempt to mitigate it:

Like the Samsung Odyssey G9, the Neo G9 has flickering issues with lower-frame rate or dim content that could get distracting. The flicker is noticeable, with some scenes more than others. Samsung added a VRR Control setting to help reduce this issue by doubling the frames with lower-frame rate content, which helps improve it but also causes some stuttering.

Which goes to show that keeping your frame rate in the higher range does help reduce the issue... or to look at it from the opposite direction --> running frame rates that dip into the lower end exacerbates the issue.

Higher end = touching or exceeding 120fpsHz (the gamma curve's set point) on the high end of the frame rate graph's range (~90fps to 100fps average or higher, capped at 117fps). Lower end = anything lower than that.

------------------------------------------

a 100fpsHz Average graph's typical frame rate range

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<----------100fpsHz --------->>>>> 115 capped

Or better yet 110 - 115fpsHz average:

(85) 100fpsHz <<<------------------- 115fpsHz --------------->>>> 115capped


I realize this eliminates much of the variable Hz range most people use variable Hz for in the first place but it still allows that fluctuation (of +/- 15fps to 30 fps on each end) without having to keep a 120fpsHz MINIMUM which is much more demanding than even the high fpsHz average rate's spans I posted.

Those are a big difference from something like 80fpsHz average:

(50) 65fpsHz <<<<<------------- 80 fpsHz ---------------->>>> 95fpsHz (110)

You could do a 60fps CAP using a frame rate that has a 60fps minimum (which would be 60Hz on the display) too, or set the display to 60hz but I'm not interested in 60hz gameplay when I can get higher. I'm also not interested in VRR ranging BELOW 60fpsHz which is why I suggested minimums with cap instead of free ranging.

You could also experiment with setting a FPS cap on a per game basis (with RTSS or nvidia control panel) at whatever *minimum* frame rate you are capable of on that particular game (avoiding using VRR). The idea of VRR is that people can use poorer frame rates though essentially, in order to experience higher graphics with some moderate fluctiation. Personally I love VRR but I avoid going into the shallow end of the pool for the lower 1/3 of the graph.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also in regard to HDR (from RTings odyssey G9 Neo review):

Note: There are major issues with the HDR support. Some content is over-brightened to the point where you can't properly make out any details, or dark content is hard to see. This depends on the content, so the peak brightness may perform differently in these situations. We didn't notice this with our real scene test pattern.

That screen is like $2500 last I looked so the 48" LG screens are actually priced nicely in my opinion.

 

[Nick Moxley]

Hey Guys, Cable/connection question.

How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?

If so please suggest cable/Adapter's

Thanks

 

[ND40oz]

Hey Guys, Cable/connection question.

How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?

If so please suggest cable/Adapter's

Thanks

You're likely going to need active adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-Adapter-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V

 

[elvn]

You're likely going to need active adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-Adapter-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V

Yes idk how well that would work out without looking in to those adapters. So far adapters that do 120hz can't do VRR afaik.

Otherwise, even if you had a 3080/90 with three hdmi outs, one of them would be hdmi 2.0b (60hz 4k).

That said, with three 4k screens you probably aren't going to get high frame rates on most games, and that's putting it mildly.

Personally I'd go with a single 4k screen in 3840x1600 ultrawide mode (or a samsung G9 neo at 5120x1440) and sit closer when playing the type of games that would benefit from using some of the game rendered in your peripheral vision for immersion.

A 48" 4k screen is around ~ 41.8" across left to right. So that's roughly equivalent to a 45.3" diagonal 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution screen when in 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution/mode too. That equates to a 17.4" tall viewable in uw 3840x1600 resolution. For comparison, the neo G9 VA's entire screen is 14.3" tall with a 5120x1440 resolution (3840+1280, or +640 px each side by comparison).

That or consider buying a high end VR headset like a pimax 8k.

 

[Nick Moxley]

You're likely going to need active adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/Club-3D-DisplayPort1-4-Adapter-CAC-1085/dp/B08BX49V5V

Would i Not loose VRR with that adapter as many have reported in the reviews ?

 

[ND40oz]

Would i Not loose VRR with that adapter as many have reported in the reviews ?

One person has VRR working with a usb-c adaptor but your card doesn't have usb-c. You'll have to test out adaptors and see what ones will work if any. You're bleeding edge with 3 48CXs, so you'll likely need to do the testing yourself.

 

[Nick Moxley]

Yes idk how well that would work out without looking in to those adapters. So far adapters that do 120hz can't do VRR afaik.

Otherwise, even if you had a 3080/90 with three hdmi outs, one of them would be hdmi 2.0b (60hz 4k).

That said, with three 4k screens you probably aren't going to get high frame rates on most games, and that's putting it mildly.

Personally I'd go with a single 4k screen in 3840x1600 ultrawide mode (or a samsung G9 neo at 5120x1440) and sit closer when playing the type of games that would benefit from using some of the game rendered in your peripheral vision for immersion.




That or consider buying a high end VR headset like a pimax 8k.

Sorry seems i missed your reply this morning, Yes from what I've also read, VRR is a problem. So what would actually be limiting the VRR from working if the hz and resolution will pass ?. Not knowing exactly how that all works.

Im coming from a Trio of the Aorus FU43's that are going back this week due to various issues I've encountered. (previously had cheap Trio of Bestbuy Boxing day special 43" 1080p Toshibas). So Not having triples is a No Go, VR is also not that interesting to me at this stage.

For reference i was SHOCKED how BUTTER Smooth and effective the FU43's were running at 3x4k but at sub 60fps with quite a bit of eye candy still on from my 1080p setup. (Games include Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione *Unreal engine) So IMO the VRR is something i cant justify to loose. but things aren't looking too good given what im learning now about DP and HDMI quirks.

One person has VRR working with a usb-c adaptor but your card doesn't have usb-c. You'll have to test out adaptors and see what ones will work if any. You're bleeding edge with 3 48CXs, so you'll likely need to do the testing yourself.

Ya technically i have a 2080ti in the machine right now, the 3080 is coming tomorrow, but that 1 single output that can support it wont solve my 3x problem.

 

[xykreilon]

While there are few reviews of the AW55, https://www.tomsguide.com/reviews/alienware-aw5520qf-55-inch-oled-gaming-monitor says the following:

"But there's one area where the AW5520QF fell below our expectations, and that was lag time. When tested with our Leo Bodnar input lag tester over HDMI, the AW5520QF consistently clocked a lag time of 29.5 milliseconds. While most of our tests were performed in standard picture mode, we made sure to perform lag testing across every mode the Alienware offered, but it stayed consistent in every mode. While that's not far out of line with premium OLED TVs, like the Sony A9F (27.5 ms) and the LG C9 OLED (21.2 ms), it's significantly slower than the Samsung Q60 QLED, which offered a game mode with lag times of 16.3 ms. For a gaming-focused monitor, from one of the biggest brand names in gaming, I expected better. "

Now their lag times are higher than what Rtings review has for C9 so this might be at 4K 60 Hz or different way of measuring it, I don't know. But in any case in their test it looks like the AW55 input lag was actually higher. To compare like for like, you would probably want to run C9 and AW55 at 1440p @ 120 Hz. C9 should be in Game mode apparently.

Personally I cannot tell a difference in input lag between my C9, ASUS PG278Q or Samsung CRG9. The differences are entirely in response times. Even my Samsung KS8000 at around 22ms input lag was fine in SDR, but the 35ms in HDR mode was noticeably worse. I think it's just not worth nitpicking about input lag or try to turn it into some massive issue, it's low enough on the C9 and CX even at 4K 60 Hz.

With next gen GPUs rumored to be releasing in September, there is just no good reason to buy the AW55 at this point. In my country the 55" LG C9 is 1500 euros cheaper. The 55" CX is only about 300 euros cheaper. The 48" CX is about 1100 euros cheaper and a more desktop friendly size.

To me rather than correct misinformation it sounds like you are trying to justify your purchase to us. In the end it's the same LG OLED panel paired with different hardware for a different purpose. Enjoy your display but please understand that those who don't own one have no good reason to buy one at this point when we could save a massive pile of money with 55" C9 or 48" CX, get good HDR support and put that saved money towards an Nvidia 3080 or 3080 Ti later this year.

Was considering the Alienware before I saw this, thinking it would be less laggy than the LG CX, not having the processing lag of a TV and all.
30ms is retardedly slow. Into the trash it goes. Almost slower than my IPS laptop. Embarassing for any gaming monitor, let alone an OLED one.

 

[Nick Moxley]

@ND40oz
@elvn

I called the company UpTab whom make the following adapter https://ca.uptab.com/displayport-1-..._medium=wi_proxy&utm_content=en_US&utm_term=c

the Support tech was More than happy to chit chat about the situation and gave detailed info as to what and why this limitations exists and that its a Futile search on my part, as there Does NOT exist a current solution for DP to HDMI to maintain the VRR. (disappointing to say the least, i guess ill be going back to 1080p for a while longer )

He explained they are in talks with Nvidia, AMD and HDMI for a adapter they have in the works, but said he cant say any further on time line or release date.

 

[SoCali]

LG support is pretty good in America. My CX is 3 months out of warranty and they are still willing to send out a tech for a panel replacement.

 

[NM64]

How would one effectively get 120hz with VRR from a EVGA 3080 FTW3 onto 3 C1's in surround mode ?

Do you already own the C1's?

I ask because the Aorus FO48U could be a work-around for that issue due to having both DisplayPort and HDMI (technically its 24Gbps HDMI bandwidth is less than the C1's 40Gbps, but it supports DSC anyway which your 3080 supports; furthermore your 3080 has 3x DisplayPort outputs so the reduced HDMI bandwidth is a bit moot anyway).


There's also the crazy option of mixing and matching if you have only one C1 currently, e.g. having that single C1 as the center display and two FO48U's as the side displays.

 

[Roflcopter_Down]

Few quick questions-
Will probably soon order the 65" c1 from amazon since its on sale. Don't want the price to return. I'll have to use it from the couch, and run some mini desk setup. Mostly play RPGs with family, or alone: Escape from Tarkov, WoW/Diablo and RTS games like Wc3.

Anything you wish you knew before you bought an oled display?
Anyone that bought the 48" wish they went larger? Or anyone that went larger wish they went 48"?
Any way to lobotomize any/all the Smart Tv/Alexa stuff?
Is it worth waiting for the other/newer type of oled panels?

 

[SoCali]

The only thing I can say is that it's natural to want to baby it inherently from fear or burn in but I've learned that they are far more resilient than you think. I still do it out of habit when it reality I could probably be much more careless.

Most here own the 48" and wish it were smaller like me. The 42" next year will scratch that itch and with Samsung entering the OLED market next year, I expect LG is going to have a much more legitimate upgrade compared to CX -> C1 which really added nothing of value (other than Evo panels for 55"+). If I were in a position to buy now it would really depend because the new TV's get announced at CES but actual availability can take until mid 2022 so the question is can you live without an OLED for a potential 6+ months.

 

[Jake]

I have a 48" C1, had there been a 40-42" I'd have gotten that and used the inclueded stand on my desk instead of buying a wall mount from Monoprice.

Way to lobotomize -> don't hook it up to the internet, or at the least update the firmware then disconnect.

 

[Khnick]

how often should you run pixel refresh? my CX developed a vertical line on the right edge but pixel refresh sorted it out, didnt do anything for the dead pixels in the upper right though

 

[kasakka]

how often should you run pixel refresh? my CX developed a vertical line on the right edge but pixel refresh sorted it out, didnt do anything for the dead pixels in the upper right though

No need to ever run it yourself. Just keep the CX connected to power and it will handle it as it sees fit.

 

[SoCali]

LTT video about IR he experienced has people terrified of owning a OLED:

 

[lors]

OLED-light 80 for desktop usage in THIS environment AND only let the small pixel refresher run every 15 hours (10:21Min, 541/35). He is clueless.

 

[MistaSparkul]

OLED Light at 80 is really bright...if the thing is being used in an office with high amounts of ambient lighting already then I see no reason to use an OLED for productivity as not only will you burn in your display faster by running such a high brightness for 8+ hours a day, but you'll also get hit with ABL once too much of the screen has been filled with white and that can be quite annoying. I have been using my CX as my daily driver since June 2020 but at OLED light set to 30 in a dim environment and I don't have a single hint of burn in yet, plus ABL doesn't kick in since my max brightness is 120 nits while the ABL ceiling is 150 nits.

 

[SoCali]

Yeah I mean most people use these displays at way too high a brightness value for desktop use. I just don't find it comfortable at all to be blasted by white docs/pages on something this size which is why I use it at 80-100nits. It also mitigates his problem of small white windows becoming searing bright when you open them.

 

[Surly]

LTT video about IR he experienced has people terrified of owning a OLED:

It certainly has me worried/reconsidering. I was considering the upcoming 42" LG as a desktop replacement for work AND leisure, meaning 8+ hours of general desktop usage (many work windows/IDE's/documents open at once) and then 3 hours or so of leisure. The office we have our pc's in is not a cave and during the day its going to be medium to fairly bright with windows. I'm thinking that as much as I would like it to be the case, OLED is probably not going to be the answer for my desktop needs.

I guess I'll have to hope that Samsung gets their head out of their asses and gives the 43" Q90 NEO high refresh/VRR like its larger siblings...

 

[SoCali]

Someone above has pointed out that he isn't letting the pixel refresher do it's thing like it would on in a normal use case. For that reason I think the video is fear mongering at it's finest and no different from Samsung's anti OLED ad's where they have someone play an MMO for a day straight on both a Samsung VA and OLED, the OLED shows temporary IR because it's showing HUD's for 24 hours straight. As soon as it gets turned off to do a pixel refresh cycle on it's own that IR would be gone.

 

[lors]

Pretty sure this video would not exist if he would have turned his TV off every 4-8 hours for 6 minutes to let the pixel refresher doing it's thing.

 

[celwin]

Pretty sure this video would not exist if he would have turned his TV off every 4-8 hours for 6 minutes to let the pixel refresher doing it's thing.

And this is exactly why some of us will not use an OLED tv as a monitor. I want to turn on the monitor and forget it. Don't want to baby sit it and do annoying little task to prevent burn in.

 

[MistaSparkul]

And this is exactly why some of us will not use an OLED tv as a monitor. I want to turn on the monitor and forget it. Don't want to baby sit it and do annoying little task to prevent burn in.

I haven't done a single ounce of babysitting on my CX and I even disabled ASBL (not to be confused with ABL which cannot be disabled). I use it for however long I want throughout the day sometimes up to 14 hours straight then just turn the TV off when I go to bed. Still no burn in so far, I think it just comes down to not blasting it at 80 OLED light.

 

[SoCali]

And this is exactly why some of us will not use an OLED tv as a monitor. I want to turn on the monitor and forget it. Don't want to baby sit it and do annoying little task to prevent burn in.

I really don't consider turning off a TV (or letting it turn itself off when not in use based on Windows Power settings) 1 time every 8 hours as babysitting.

 

[lors]

And this is exactly why some of us will not use an OLED tv as a monitor. I want to turn on the monitor and forget it. Don't want to baby sit it and do annoying little task to prevent burn in.

Yes, it takes insane predictive time management skills, such as turning off the lights from time to time when you leave a room.

 

[defaultluser]

Yes, it takes insane predictive time management skills, such as turning off the lights from time to time when you leave a room.

Or leaving on the auto power-off feature on the set.

Been enjoying this new feature pushed at the start of the year on my B7 (handled this all manually before with automated black screensaver, plus power-off overnight), but now with reliable power-off, no-longer freak out i f the dog runs over the remote while I'm at work

Still no burn-in after 3+ years mixed-use. I've also be amazed how long this 4.5 year old TV has been receiving Firmware updates (just got one last week!)

 

[kalston]

Ah yeah let's abuse the panel and make a fear-mongering video about it.

To be fair I'm not sure what happens when the average joe buys such a display to use it as a monitor... Personally I did a lot of research beforehand and made certain it suited my use cases (and my room). Only seems natural to me with the price tag on those sets. But that's me.

My panel is also totally flawless after more than a year of 10h a day or so and it's been such joy to use it and I do hope it lasts as long as possible (since I'm in a dark room I am confident it will be years) but frankly for me the OLED perks are such a big deal that I won't hesitate to replace it with another similar one if I have to. I truly can't do LCD for gaming or films anymore.

 

[equinox654]

I have had mine for a year and if I am working I keep the oled light at 10-30. It usually the lower bit of the range.. If I fire up a game I crank the brightness to 80-100. If it supports HDR 100.
No signs of burn in yet. Around 2k hours on the panel.

I imagine most of of here know how to take care of it or at least what not to do and in all the time this thread has been going on I haven't seen any scary burn in stories.
Linus said he employee had been borrowing it while waiting to get one. I wonder if he ran it full blast for a few months.

 

[madpistol]

LTT video about IR he experienced has people terrified of owning a OLED:

Running in SDR at OLED brightness of 60-80 10 hours per day as a desktop monitor will DEFINITELY cause this screen to degrade prematurely. No doubt about it. However, the majority of users on this forum take care of their screens and run OLED brightness around 0-30 in SDR. That is the mostly agreed upon "safe zone" for these displays.

Seriously, Linus and Wendel were absolutely abusing their screens.

For reference, I have 7440 hours on my CX. Zero burn-in.

 

[equinox654]

Running in SDR at OLED brightness of 60-80 10 hours per day as a desktop monitor will DEFINITELY cause this screen to degrade prematurely. No doubt about it. However, the majority of users on this forum take care of their screens and run OLED brightness around 0-30 in SDR. That is the mostly agreed upon "safe zone" for these displays.

Seriously, Linus and Wendel were absolutely abusing their screens.

For reference, I have 7440 hours on my CX. Zero burn-in.

Lol 7440 huh. That would last me another 3 years. So the thing could last 4-5 years which would be longer than I have ever run a display on my pc. Think the record goes to an asus 34" 3440x1440 100hz ultrawide at 3.5 years.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Running in SDR at OLED brightness of 60-80 10 hours per day as a desktop monitor will DEFINITELY cause this screen to degrade prematurely. No doubt about it. However, the majority of users on this forum take care of their screens and run OLED brightness around 0-30 in SDR. That is the mostly agreed upon "safe zone" for these displays.

Seriously, Linus and Wendel were absolutely abusing their screens.

For reference, I have 7440 hours on my CX. Zero burn-in.

Running that high of a brightness level would mean that their room already has tons of ambient lighting to begin with, in which case they are hugely mitigating one of OLED's key advantages over an LCD display which is the contrast. Blacks are going to look inky even on a TN panel if the room is bright enough. They really picked the wrong display type for their specific use case scenario, which doesn't surprise me one bit as I never considered Linus nor Wendell to be display experts.

 

[Surly]

Running in SDR at OLED brightness of 60-80 10 hours per day as a desktop monitor will DEFINITELY cause this screen to degrade prematurely. No doubt about it. However, the majority of users on this forum take care of their screens and run OLED brightness around 0-30 in SDR. That is the mostly agreed upon "safe zone" for these displays.

Seriously, Linus and Wendel were absolutely abusing their screens.

For reference, I have 7440 hours on my CX. Zero burn-in.

Mostly as media consumption device or 8-5 monitor replacement workhorse?

 

[madpistol]

Mostly as media consumption device or 8-5 monitor replacement workhorse?

Switching between both, actually.

 

[SoCali]

I just checked out a friends 48" C1 he just got and it has a noticeable pink tint to whites. I brought over my service remote and saw he has the WBE "Evo" panel from the G1 which explains it. Other than the default game modes calibration being light years better than my CX which is way too green heavy, I can't really tell it apart.

 

[elvn]

I use side VA 4k screens for desktop/apps and keep the 48CX as a media and gaming "stage".

When I'm not actively viewing media or playing a game on it, and whenever I pause or walk away from my pc, I use the "turn off the screen" trick (2 clicks on the quick menu or using the micrphone button to say it with the voice commands active)
-- to turn the emitters off without dropping the now "dead looking" but otherwise functioning normally screen out of the equation. It's more or less like minimizing the whole screen before I walk away or when I'm not actively using it. Touching any button on the remote turns the emitters back on instantly.

I also use "translucent taskbar" and "taskbar hider" with a taskbar show/hide toggle hotkey set up in that app. I can drag the taskbar to one of my secondary monitors too.

I didn't turn off any brightness limiters or anything either. I'm not saying you have to do any of this with yours but it's what I do with mine.

I do run HDR movies and HDR games on the display. I also mod SDR games to higher volume using Reshade with a fakeHDR filter and a lightroom filter. Similarly, I'll eventually be using windows 11's auotmatic SDR enhancement (~ SDR+ color volume kind of thing).

I also have the best buy 5 yr warranty which covers burn in. It came out to around $60 a year for the 5 years of insurance.

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

I wonder what percentage of us are going to switch to the 42" when it's available. I actually quite like the 48" size after getting used to it. Doesn't even seem that big anymore. But I wouldn't be against the higher DPI of the 42".

 

[sharknice]

I don't imagine many people would switch. Probably a lot of new people buying them that didn't have room for the 48 though.

After actually using 48" for a while it seems like the perfect size to me. The size and DPI pairs perfectly with the 24" 1080p screens I have stacked on the sides. It's just like having 4 of them with no bezels. So it's awesome for productivity and while gaming it's the perfect size for immersion.