Good to know and yes on both. Wonder if I could get a browser up on one instead of the usual 1080p loops they run...If you have a Sam's nearby, they have them on display, as does Best Buy in the Magnolia area
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Good to know and yes on both. Wonder if I could get a browser up on one instead of the usual 1080p loops they run...If you have a Sam's nearby, they have them on display, as does Best Buy in the Magnolia area
Good to know and yes on both. Wonder if I could get a browser up on one instead of the usual 1080p loops they run...
I think I could just get 4:2:0, but someone else can confirm. It was/is outstanding. I only noticed the red text issue in Star Wars The Old Republic, which I rarely play, but even then it was not distracting enough to make much of a difference.
I've been kicking myself for that today, lol.
How was the image quality? I assume 4:2:2 was what you could get at 4k120?
I think I could just get 4:2:0, but someone else can confirm. It was/is outstanding. I only noticed the red text issue in Star Wars The Old Republic, which I rarely play, but even then it was not distracting enough to make much of a difference.
So can I get 4k120 4:4:4 no vrr with the dongle?
I'm wondering if I made a mistake buying this without a 2.1 card.
Does that mean it will disappear when I can get a 30xx?yes. this is chroma subsampling effect. It's not full rgb in order to acheive 120hz on hdmi 2.0
It's really, really bad in this one game I'm playing in particular because the bad guys are just 255,0,0 basically hehIs this noticable in games?
Does that mean it will disappear when I can get a 30xx?
It's really, really bad in this one game I'm playing in particular because the bad guys are just 255,0,0 basically heh
The biggest issue reported about LG's OLEDs for work-related tasks is that text doesn't look as sharp as it does on an IPS panel. This is mainly because LG's OLED uses a WRGB subpixel matrix, while LCDs use RGB. This can cause artifacting on text when looking up close; if the text is pure white, only the white subpixel will be lit, while on a normal LCD screen, White = RGB lit. If you're a few feet away from the screen, you probably won't notice.Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is the CX/CX1 good for this? I know the contrast alone will help, but without being able to see one in person, I hate to gamble. I also know there will probably be a lot of static image no-nos many hours of the day and am sort of preparing myself for a slight bit of burn-in. Anybody else been using theirs as a work monitor for many hours of the day?
I think these will depend on the individual display. I don't have a calibrator anymore (borrowed from previous workplace) but for me it measured about 120 nits at 20 brightness. If it was as low as 83 nits it would be too dim for me. I normally use a setting between 20-30.View attachment 344202
Source:
https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_cx_oled.htm#brightness
Since the C1 is basically unchanged from the CX the settings should be similar if you get one of those.
The biggest issue reported about LG's OLEDs for work-related tasks is that text doesn't look as sharp as it does on an IPS panel. This is mainly because LG's OLED uses a WRGB subpixel matrix, while LCDs use RGB. This can cause artifacting on text when looking up close; if the text is pure white, only the white subpixel will be lit, while on a normal LCD screen, White = RGB lit. If you're a few feet away from the screen, you probably won't notice.
The best thing I can tell you is find one and test it out.
As for burn-in, I've been using mine for mixed use (work + gaming) for just a tick under 5000 hours with brightness set between 0-30 most of the time, and so far, burn-in has not been an issue. Just make sure you have a good screen saver so if you walk away, it will not maintain the static image.
But anything red is still weird, and I'm not sure what's going on with it. It's a pain to try and take a picture of, this is the best I can get. You can see the white text at the top is perfectly fine, but the red is 'crunchy' - look at the hash sign, and looks worse in real life. I run a multi monitor setup and this is the only display that it happens on. Is this something to do with what I've been reading about chroma subsampling in 4:2:2?
Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is the CX/CX1 good for this?
After reading through the discussion regarding WOLED sub-pixel arrangement and ClearType, I felt the need to dig out my ancient HardForum account just to share the following ClearType tweaking utility that IMO beats the pants off of Windows' built-in ClearType tuner since this even includes keep-it-simple-stupid toggles for full-pixel greyscale font anti-aliasing, RGB ClearType, BGR ClearType, and disabling ClearType and font anti-aliasing altogether:
Info: https://github.com/bp2008/BetterClearTypeTuner
Download: https://github.com/bp2008/BetterClearTypeTuner/releases
20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)
Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.
While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:
38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle
I took some more pics of this 1 dead pixel I have on c1.The LG's are really weird with dead pixels. From my experience, it's not like normal LCD's. I've had multiple 55" LG OLED's, and the dead pixels just come and go at random. I usually find 1-2 dead pixels on my screen, then a few months later I look for them and they're no longer there, but there's 1-2 dead pixels somewhere else, and it just repeats somewhere else. From my experience with LCD's, when you get dead/stuck pixels, they're usually permanent (even with stupid pixel refreshing fixes), and if they're not already on your screen the first time you use it then you should be good to go in the long term. I'm usually very OCD about dead/stuck pixels, it's a 100% return on my part usually, but the screen is so large, and I sit so far back, and they usually go away anyway, that it truly doesn't bother me. Just my personal experience though.
I took some more pics of this 1 dead pixel I have on c1.
It appears it's not the whole pixel dead. It's ok on blue or green but dead on red, magenta and white.
So maybe it's red and white sub pixel... no idea, the images I took on primary rtings colors only confuse me
I still don't find it reasonable to return the screen because 2 or 3 subpixels are not working... but I do notice it occasionally on sky or brighter colors and it's kinda annoying me
View attachment 344628
I would but it's so much hassle to pack the tv back and wait for 2 weeks for money return so I can buy again elsewhere... and then get 3 dead pixels probably.For the amount of money that these panels cost, I would return it.
So glad I sold my c9 few days ago (no support from lg/amd for Vrr on c9) . Just before I bought heavily discounted 48cx today 48c1 showed up for pretty much the same price (immediately bought it). Here's me hoping actual c1 (and not CX) model shows up so I can be sure to receive firmware updates for next 2 years55 was fine for couch viewing but up close I looked real funny over zoom meetings constantly turning my head for documents which were in 4 different corners of my screen.
European Union, local webshops have it and delivery is supposed to happen next week (so far it really looks like I bought lg 48c1).Where did you get a c1?
no support from lg/amd for Vrr on c9
At least EDID edit with previous version of CRU (CRU was updated recently) resulted in no signal received by LG C9 (as far as I'm aware it was the same for everybody else with 6000 series GPU, 120/60Hz, 4k, 1440p or 1080p made no difference) as display was detected by windows (LG just displayed no signal message) but I needed second screen (which I no longer have) to roll back changes made to EDID to disable freesync.Are you saying the "freesync over HDMI" EDID override trick no longer works, or doesn't work on newer GPUs (e.g. RX 6000 series)?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/g65mw7/working_freesync_mod_for_vrr_displays_tested_on/
(not that I guess you could test it since you've sold the C9 now...)
Is this only a problem with the new CX1?anyone figured out how to stop audio preset from changing to "game optimizer preset" every time pc is restarted and gsync detected?
The only solution aside from switching to my preferred preset (music) on each pc restart is do disable gsync in the TV or in Nvidia control panel.. but I love gsync
No idea. I only got C1 and it's annoyingIs this only a problem with the new CX1?
I would assume it's a quirk of the C1 and maybe the Instant Game Response setting also causes this to happen. Try contacting LG and maybe they will fix it in a firmware update.anyone figured out how to stop audio preset from changing to "game optimizer preset" every time pc is restarted and gsync detected?
The only solution aside from switching to my preferred preset (music) on each pc restart is do disable gsync in the TV or in Nvidia control panel.. but I love gsync
I tweeted at them. not sure which account is alright though...I would assume it's a quirk of the C1 and maybe the Instant Game Response setting also causes this to happen. Try contacting LG and maybe they will fix it in a firmware update.
You can expect that a new iteration will have all kinds of annoyances. Some get fixed, others do not within the first 6 months or so.
The peak brightness alters the ABL behavior so SDR can get brighter. A setting of 'high' can get close to 500 nits with a 2% window compared to 300 nits with it turned off. I assume they disable it in PC mode to protect the screen.Hey, I've been wondering - The Peak Brightness setting seems important but it is greyed out in both SDR and HDR modes when I am in "PC INPUT" on m pc. These are available on ps5 with "console input".
Does that mean that these settings are set to high or off ? What would it do in sdr anyway if am set to Oled Light 30, then the tv never dims below 120nits as it can hold this brightness even on full screen no problem.
View attachment 345565
I don't know if anyone has helped you out yet.It was delivered. I got it configured. Woah.
I don't know if anyone has helped you out yet.
But i also have a C9 with a 2080ti
What arrived? i have both adapters the club3d and the cable matters.
Forget VRR on a 2080ti unless you want 60hz which no one does.
Go with either adapter and a ultra high speed cable for 4k 120hz 10/12bit
I followed a guide sheet I found on the reddit super thread on it.
I have a CX with the 2080Ti.
Used the cablematters usb-c adapter. Running 4k120Hz full rgb 10bit
Ahh ok, so you got your adpater working, kk nice, grats, looks amazing doesn't it? now go try some youtube 4k60 hdr videos here https://www.youtube.com/user/jacobschwarz
I know it's only 60hz but they still look amazing. Try Peru, Bulgaria and Morocco.
There is an "auto off" setting in the TV, highly recommend you turn it on. It can be annoying at times but it's worth itFreaking nightmare just happened for me. My windows screen saver is suddenly not turning on, and my triple 48's stayed on for the past 18 hours or so with my windows and icons. I have image retention and possibly burn in on my center screen from a white box that was on a web page, a small notepad window, and even my desktop icons, which I have religiously moved around to prevent this issue.
Has anyone run into something like this? I see the LG pixel refresher in the menus but don't really know what it's about. What can I do?
I am gutted. I've been very careful to date. I can move my main screen to the side and center one with no burn in. But UGH. So gutted. It's only noticeable with flat colours. But that's like the sky for me in driving sims. I'll see it.
I would try to avoid running the pixel refresher consecutively because the voltage cycling it does will wear out the pixels faster. The TV will automatically run the refresher when it's turned off after a certain number of operating hours, so there is usually no need to run it manually unless situations like yours happens. If you're paranoid just manually turn the TVs off when you walk away from your PC.Ok. I am 20 minutes into the pixel refresher and will report back. Any use in running that several times if I still see stuff?
I will look for auto off. Thanks for that! I gotta figure out why my screen saver isn't working. Power management used to turn them off at 30 minutes too. Not working. I did a windows updato to no effect. I will try unplugging USB stuff.