You can fix this with registry change:
https://www.performance-computer.com/learn/prevent-windows-10-from-resizing-open-windows/
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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nighty2k20
n00b
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With the driver from december my LG CX was recognized as Gsync compatible.
After installing the current driver I had to go to Nvidia Control panel, Gsync, where it shows "not compatible" and set the checkbox for "use it anyway". Works just as before now for me
Yea I've had the same expeirence. No impact on g-sync performance/functionality.
For me the whole G-Sync tab went missing, even downgrading back to an older driver. Had to run DDU to get it back and then it seemed to work on the newer driver as well.
I also figured out how to use the 456.71 driver that works with the Club3D adapter but have the latest DLSS 2.x support. It wasn't working in Nioh 2 so what I did was use NvCleanInstall to extract the 456.71 and 467.72 drivers, then I installed 467.72 and copied the C:\ProgramData\Nvidia\NGX folder from this driver elsewhere. Then I copied the nvngx.dl_ files from the 467.72 package to 456.71 installation and installed the older driver. Finally I replaced the C:\ProgramData\Nvidia\NGX contents with the ones from the latest driver.
Now Nioh 2 can run DLSS 2.x on my older driver! Neat trick if you want latest DLSS support but need to run an older driver due to some issue.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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Nioh 2 seemed to work fine with DLSS before the new driver came out, they patched the game a few days before it and I ran it fine, saw the same performance increase.
Hello guys, I have been stalking on this thread for a while, and now that I have LG 48CX and Club 3D CAC-1085 adapter, I thought you could help me with some of my questions. I tried to find answers to those questions on my own, but there are just too many comments 
.BTW, I have RTX 2080 Ti SLI & 456.71 driver installed.
.BTW, I have RTX 2080 Ti SLI & 456.71 driver installed.- What should I see in HDMI Diagnostics in HDR Type? I have played Youtube HDR video on Edge and played Redout: Enhanced Edition with HDR support, but I have only seen HDR Type: SDR. I have seen pictures of HDR Type: HDR10, is it only relevant for consoles?
- What is maximum supported Chroma Subsampling mode for 4K@120 HDR 10 bpc with proper colour space with adapter (RGB Full or Limited, 444, 422, 420)? I have only managed to get 420, 10bpc and R.2020.
- I managed to get 4K@120 RGB Full 10bpc, but NO_DATA in HDMI Diagnostics therefore no R.2020 colour space badge on TV. Is it enough to change it to R.2020 in HDMI Signalling Override to get proper HDR? Is HDR content already adjusted for R.2020 so that GPU doesn't has to send info about proper colour space?
- I have read I should be able to have working 422 10bpc with proper colour space, is it right(60hz without adapter, 120hz with adapter)? As said before, I have only managed to get 420, 10bpc and R.2020.
- What has better PQ, RGB Full 8bpc with dithering & forced bt.2020 for HDR Gaming? Or is RGB Full 10bpc & forced bt.2020 better? Is there any perfomance/lag difference?
- I have read on few places that everything below RGB Full has banding issue on LG OLED?
- I have read that LG process everything internally in RGB Low (16-235), so isn't it better to send signal by RGB Low?
- Is PC icon & Game mode best for HDR gaming? I read about shuttering on consoles with 4K@120Hz with PC Icon, but I'm not sure if it was just byproduct of Gamma Issue with VRR.
- Can I send surround sound (5.1 uncompressed, I'm not sure if it is different from PCM or what most games output) from TV by ARC/eARC to AVR? I think I have read something for solving this issue about hacking, was it maybe EDID hacking? I have Denon AVR-X2600H.
- Do you change something else in HDMI Signalling Override to get proper HDR beside first setting Colorimetry?
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If you run diplayfusion app you can save one or multiple window position profiles and either activate them in the system tray or set a hotkey to activate one. I do that tied to a streamdeck button I can activate after I turn on my screens.
Yes it did but it did not work on 456.71, which is the newest driver I can use unless I want to lose the benefits of the Club3D adapter with my 2080 Ti. It's a bug Nvidia hopefully fixes in their next release.
Hello guys, I have been stalking on this thread for a while, and now that I have LG 48CX and Club 3D CAC-1085 adapter, I thought you could help me with some of my questions. I tried to answers to those questions on my own, but there are just too many comments
Thank you in advance.
- What should I see in HDMI Diagnostics in HDR Type? I have played Youtube HDR video on Edge and played Redout: Enhanced Edition with HDR support, but I have only seen HDR Type: SDR. I have seen pictures of HDR Type: HDR10, is it only relevant for consoles?
- What is maximum supported Chroma Subsampling mode for 4K@120 HDR 10 bpc with proper colour space with adapter (RGB Full or Limited, 444, 422, 420)? I have only managed to get 420, 10bpc and R.2020.
- I managed to get 4K@120 RGB Full 10bpc, but NO_DATA in HDMI Diagnostics therefore no R.2020 colour space badge on TV. Is it enough to change it to R.2020 in HDMI Signalling Override to get proper HDR? Is HDR content already adjusted for R.2020 so that GPU doesn't has to send info about proper colour space?
- I have read I should be able to have working 422 10bpc with proper colour space, is it right(60hz without adapter, 120hz with adapter)? As said before, I have only managed to get 420, 10bpc and R.2020.
- What has better PQ, RGB Full 8bpc with dithering & forced bt.2020 for HDR Gaming? Or is RGB Full 10bpc & forced bt.2020 better? Is there any perfomance/lag difference?
- I have read on few places that everything below RGB Full has banding issue on LG OLED?
- I have read that LG process everything internally in RGB Low (16-235), so isn't it better to send signal by RGB Low?
- Is PC icon & Game mode best for HDR gaming? I read about shuttering on consoles with 4K@120Hz with PC Icon, but I'm not sure if it was just byproduct of Gamma Issue with VRR.
- Can I send surround sound (5.1 uncompressed, I'm not sure if it is different from PCM or what most games output) from TV by ARC/eARC to AVR? I think I have read something for solving this issue about hacking, was it maybe EDID hacking? I have Denon AVR-X2600H.
- Do you change something else in HDMI Signalling Override to get proper HDR beside first setting Colorimetry?
1. HDMI diagnostics always shows SDR there. It's a bug and can be ignored.
2. 3840x2160 120 Hz 10-bit 4:4:4, aka RGB full. Make sure you are using nothing newer than 456.71 driver or else this breaks.
3. Don't worry about HDMI diagnostics, they tend to go haywire with the adapter and can be just ignored.
4. Without the adapter I think you should be able to get 4K 60 Hz 4:2:2 10-bit.
5. There is no need to force BT2020. Sometimes things will get fucked up and the wrong color space is output to the display but you can fix this by going to 4K 60 Hz and back to 4K 120 Hz. You can tell the issue when you see red colors as too dull in HDR mode. Use https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl to change between them easily.
6. Can't say anything about that. Haven't bothered testing. There is no point in using anything but RGB Full.
7. It can do both as per its black level setting. Auto will handle both just fine.
8. For PC yes. For console use the Game Console setting because at least my PS5 does not seem to work with 4:4:4 color and drops to 4:2:2. It's not visible in games anyway.
9. Afaik yes. I don't have an AV receiver with eARC so I just use the optical and it's fine. Just can't be bothered to buy a new receiver until HDMI 2.1 issues are solved on the new ones.
10. There is no need to change anything in that menu. Leave it at default.
In short, stop messing around and just use your display.
Thanks for replying.
I know you mean it well when you said I should stop messing around, but when I got my adapter, first I tried it with my stock driver I use, and it didn't work. Then, as for recommendation of Club 3D, I installed the newest one, and it still didn't work. After that it took me quite a while until I found out all relevant information, and your comment for working driver. BTW, on Club 3D forums they say even 456.98 works with adapter, but I didn't try it myself.
I think this configuration (4K@120Hz TV with Turing and this adapter) needs a little fidling, because otherwise I wouldn't find out that even when some configuration's are in driver, they don't change the input that TV receives, if I believe what both FreeSync Information and HDMI Diagnostic says.
And in my case, in 4K@120Hz 10bpc, only 4:2:0 gives proper colours/colour space. With RGB Full even switching to 60Hz and back to 120Hz doesn't seem to solve it, therefore I get dull colours/wrong colour space. Thus, I must force BT.2020
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It should work fine as long as you have the latest adapter firmware (the latest I have got from Club3D is 1.04) and use Nvidia drivers <457 major version.
Toggling HDR on/off can sometimes cause color space issues but forcing it means you will have the wrong color space handling in SDR mode. For me it corrects itself if I toggle between 4K 60 Hz and 120 Hz a few times usually and then works just fine until HDR is toggled again.
Sorry for my ignorance but is there no easy way to get DTS audio to play on my LG TV? It seems like maybe if I go through the work of setting up a Plex server? We've always just copy pasted files to a USB stick and plugged them in to the TV and it's worked great. The files have no 2nd audio source, I checked. I have a soundbar and it's connected via eArc. I don't care if it converts down to 2 channel, I just wanna watch my stuff without reripping it or installing Plex
CX doesn't support the DTS codec. the only way to get it is to play it from a different device that does support it (i.e. nvidia shield, bluray player, etc) and play it through an AVRSorry for my ignorance but is there no easy way to get DTS audio to play on my LG TV? It seems like maybe if I go through the work of setting up a Plex server? We've always just copy pasted files to a USB stick and plugged them in to the TV and it's worked great. The files have no 2nd audio source, I checked. I have a soundbar and it's connected via eArc. I don't care if it converts down to 2 channel, I just wanna watch my stuff without reripping it or installing Plex
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You can turn off DTS in the LG WebOS's Plex app (or any plex client for that matter). Then plex will transcode DTS-MA 7.1/5.1 to PCM or multichannel AAC. The problem I've read is that it might also transcode the video a bit when that happens so it might not be 1:1 anymore compared to pass-through.
I had enough hiccups with the webOS player in plex and emby that I went out and bought a nvidia shield. When I want to use the shield I click it's input the old way:
shield --> AVR hdmi input ---> AVR_HDMI_output ----> LG CX HDMI input
I have to switch my AVR to the input the shield is on using the AVR's remote, then I tell the LG CX tv remote to switch to a different HDMI input that the AVR out is connected to and standard mode (which I customized) or tell it to switch to whatever other mode.
Since I am switching off of the AVR input I have my sharc on , the earc line to the receiver is broken while the shield input is switched to. Since I'm not passing audio through the TV at all when I use the shield input on the AVR, I get full DTS and every other format support. The newer shields also have very good AI upscaling of 1080p. Buying nvidia shield is not the cheapest option of course but you could always see how the plex client with dts disabled works out for you otherwise.
------------------------------------------------------------------
When I switch back to PC I change to the sharc's HDMI-in port on the receiver using the AVR remote (which is not an arc or e-arc port, the sharc "is the eARc" part of any AVR hdmi input it is plugged into) and I tell the LG remote to switch to the PC hdmi input again.
It requires switching using both the avr remote's buttons and the mic command switching on the LG CX remote but it takes the CX out of the loop for the plex/emby client on the shield's sound output. I changed a few of my LG CX hdmi inputs from HDMI # to "PC" and "Shield" now.
Press DVR button on surround receiver --> Tell LG to "Switch to Shield" (switches to my HDMI 4)
---> Tell LG to "switch to stand mode" (which I edited) or to whatever viewing mode you want if it's not already on the one you want at that time or for that material.
Press GAME button on the surround receiver (game is the AVR hdmi input I have the sharc is connected to) ---> Tell LG to "switch to PC" (my HDMI 3)
----> Tell LG to "switch to game mode" or whatever viewing mode if necessary
The CX will remember which mode you have each input on so you don't need the 2nd step normally unless you want to change modes for different content for some reason. So typically it's just:
press appropriate DVR remote button (DVR or GAME) ---> tell LG remote to "Switch to" Shield or PC
I had enough hiccups with the webOS player in plex and emby that I went out and bought a nvidia shield. When I want to use the shield I click it's input the old way:
shield --> AVR hdmi input ---> AVR_HDMI_output ----> LG CX HDMI input
I have to switch my AVR to the input the shield is on using the AVR's remote, then I tell the LG CX tv remote to switch to a different HDMI input that the AVR out is connected to and standard mode (which I customized) or tell it to switch to whatever other mode.
Since I am switching off of the AVR input I have my sharc on , the earc line to the receiver is broken while the shield input is switched to. Since I'm not passing audio through the TV at all when I use the shield input on the AVR, I get full DTS and every other format support. The newer shields also have very good AI upscaling of 1080p. Buying nvidia shield is not the cheapest option of course but you could always see how the plex client with dts disabled works out for you otherwise.
------------------------------------------------------------------
When I switch back to PC I change to the sharc's HDMI-in port on the receiver using the AVR remote (which is not an arc or e-arc port, the sharc "is the eARc" part of any AVR hdmi input it is plugged into) and I tell the LG remote to switch to the PC hdmi input again.
It requires switching using both the avr remote's buttons and the mic command switching on the LG CX remote but it takes the CX out of the loop for the plex/emby client on the shield's sound output. I changed a few of my LG CX hdmi inputs from HDMI # to "PC" and "Shield" now.
Press DVR button on surround receiver --> Tell LG to "Switch to Shield" (switches to my HDMI 4)
---> Tell LG to "switch to stand mode" (which I edited) or to whatever viewing mode you want if it's not already on the one you want at that time or for that material.
Press GAME button on the surround receiver (game is the AVR hdmi input I have the sharc is connected to) ---> Tell LG to "switch to PC" (my HDMI 3)
----> Tell LG to "switch to game mode" or whatever viewing mode if necessary
The CX will remember which mode you have each input on so you don't need the 2nd step normally unless you want to change modes for different content for some reason. So typically it's just:
press appropriate DVR remote button (DVR or GAME) ---> tell LG remote to "Switch to" Shield or PC
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Does anyone have issues running 4k 120 hz? I can't seem to get it set and have been running in 1440p 120hz.
I am running a new 3090 card, and figured it was my old XP Titans that weren't allowing me to get into 4k 120 hz, but I have the same problem.
In the ULTRA HD resolution section, 4k x 2k 3840x2160 (Native) has 60hz being the highest hz I can choose. In the PC section, I try 3840 x2160 where I can get 120hz as a selection, but I get no signal and it reverts to my 1440p 120hz or I can get 4k at 60hz...
Am I doing something wrong? Quality cables here....
EDIT:
I am running three of these in a triple monitor setup. I just realised the right side TV going into the HDMI port on the 3090 can do 4k 120hz fine. I have the other two going from HDMI through Club adapters into the display ports. They'll both only do 4k 60hz.
Any ideas?
I am running a new 3090 card, and figured it was my old XP Titans that weren't allowing me to get into 4k 120 hz, but I have the same problem.
In the ULTRA HD resolution section, 4k x 2k 3840x2160 (Native) has 60hz being the highest hz I can choose. In the PC section, I try 3840 x2160 where I can get 120hz as a selection, but I get no signal and it reverts to my 1440p 120hz or I can get 4k at 60hz...
Am I doing something wrong? Quality cables here....
EDIT:
I am running three of these in a triple monitor setup. I just realised the right side TV going into the HDMI port on the 3090 can do 4k 120hz fine. I have the other two going from HDMI through Club adapters into the display ports. They'll both only do 4k 60hz.
Any ideas?
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Porter_
[H]F Junkie
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Maybe try another cable?
Hi Porter, I just updated my post, but here's my edit.
EDIT:
I am running three of these in a triple monitor setup. I just realised the right side TV going into the HDMI port on the 3090 can do 4k 120hz fine. I have the other two going from HDMI through Club 3d adapters into the display ports. They'll both only do 4k 60hz.
Any ideas?
EDIT:
I am running three of these in a triple monitor setup. I just realised the right side TV going into the HDMI port on the 3090 can do 4k 120hz fine. I have the other two going from HDMI through Club 3d adapters into the display ports. They'll both only do 4k 60hz.
Any ideas?
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Forgive my ignorance, but is plex unable to transcode to 7.1 multichannel in a lossless codec (PCM, FLAC, etc.)? I mean, WebOS's built-in media player for USB drives supports decoding those audio codecs.
Maybe you're already aware, but WebOS supports some USB ethernet adapters which is a method to get upwards of 300mbps - the following one is commonly mentioned as being compatible (you can also find multiple mentions of people using it on LG OLED TVs in the user reviews):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU
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...Thanks Elvn, I saw your posts when searching but it was a little out of my league
What a shame, thanks for the info anyways, nutop. Between that and the lol_100Mbit_ethernet that really bums me out.
You can go into the settings on the plex client app in webOS and turn off the DTS checkbox. That forces your plex server to transcode the audio from the original source (e.g. DTS-MA) to PCM or AAC. So then at least you will have surround audio and be able to hear what was the DTS audio track. The LG CX won't pass through DTS audio to external sound devices at all, it doesn't have a chip to do so.
As I understand it any time transcoding happens there is some loss from the original because it's transcoding it, not re-muxing it. However I don't think plex is heavily downsampling the audio if that's what you mean. It's trying to just convert it on the fly but it can't do that as well as "re-baking" the whole file 1:1 by remuxing it in mastering software beforehand. Plex might also be transcoding the video signal somewhat if transcoding is active at all vs just passing through too.
-------------------------------------
So the cheapest fix that at least lets you hear the DTS soundtrack is disabling DTS in the plex client app in LG webOS and relying on plex to transcode the format on the fly with some loss.
You could alternately run a media player on windows (Emby theatre app lets you auto launch an external media player from it's library when you click a thumbnail if you use that app instead of Plex). You'd then be running sound outs from the pc, bypassing the tv for sound (PC optical to receiver or soundbar for example) and would be using madVR filter's HDR tonemapping turned on at 1000nit. HDR video wouldn't be as true to source that way and optical audio doesn't have the bandwidth for uncompressed HDMI audio formats but otherwise it would work.
The most faithful to the original content (but not cheapest) option is buying a separate player like a nvidia shield and porting it through a surround receiver (or to other options, below) and then send the video signal to the TV rather than passing audio through the TV at all for that source.
--------------------------------------
Apparently a few releases ago, this was enabled for the nvidia shield:
So you could theoretically output a shield's sound to a usb sound device with audio breakout ports or to a bluetooth speaker or Bt speaker system, headset, etc. rather than to a AVR/surround receiver.
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Armenius
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DisplayPort 1.4 doesn't have enough bandwidth to run 4K 120 Hz with 10-bit color or higher. You should be able to get 120 Hz if you set the color to 8-bit RGB, or change the color space to YCbCr 4:2:2.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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The Club3d adapter uses DSC to allow 4k/120hz 10bit RGB from DP1.4 and outputs an HDMI 2.1 signal. It should support 4k/120hz 10bit RGB on the TV's, just no VRR.
Armenius
Extremely [H]
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True, but the LG CX does not support DSC, as far as I'm aware. You need DSC at both ends to support the feature.
No you don't. DSC support is only needed between the GPU, OS and the adapter itself. From there on the TV is thinking it is just connected to a HDMI 2.1 device.
The Club3D adapter works as a converter in between and uses DSC because DP does not have enough bandwidth without it to match HDMI 2.1. On the 1.04 adapter firmware (available from Club3D via email) it has worked pretty well for me. VRR is basically the only thing that doesn't work and at this point it's unlikely to be added. I hold a small sliver of hope that it will become possible as that would make it equal to a HDMI 2.1 port.
But for me running without VRR has been perfectly fine. My 2080 Ti runs most games at high enough framerates.
Armenius
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Apparently it's an issue with GeForce driver 461.40 and newer.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...e-46172-game-ready-driver-feedback-thread-re/
The pixel clock needs to be 1GHz or greater for 4K 120 Hz, if my math is correct.
At the risk of going off-topic...
So the reason I asked is because, while I don't know much at all about plex, I know a thing or two about digital audio formats. If you're transcoding to a lossless format, then there is no quality loss because that's literally (not figuratively!) what lossless means - no loss in quality.
Formats like PCM and FLAC are lossless formats (heck, PCM is straight-up uncompressed), AAC is a lossy format. If one were to compare it to image formats, then PCM is BMP, FLAC is PNG, and AAC is JPEG.
There is a teeny bit of a catch though in that it's only truly lossless if you're converting to the same bitdepth, sampling rate, and channel configuration as what the source audio is in (this is usually the most problematic when transcoding from lossy audio though as most semi-modern lossy codecs actually encode at 32bit floating point, so technically any transcoding would also have to be saved as 32bit floating point which support-wise is only well supported in PCM and WavPack, and even then decode support is poorly supported in anything other than software media players - in my experience most embedded devices max out at 24bit).
Anyway, FLAC for example maxes out at 24bit 8-channel but can handle sampling rates even above 192KHz (I've personally tested 264KHz FLAC in foobar2000). PCM can basically be anything however as it being straight-up uncompressed means you can just keep adding more channels, more bits, more samples, etc...as long as the source device can decode it of course.
There's also the issue of dithering in that it's not always clear, even when converting from one lossless 24bit format to another 24bit format, if dither is being applied or not. For true mathematical lossless-ness, you'd not want dither being applied if no other modification to the waveform is occurring (e.g. gain adjustment, resampling, reducing bit depth, channel down-mixing, etc), but even then the audible difference of applying dither with such a 24bit--to->24bit conversion is quite possibly going to be way below the threshold of audibility.
So the reason I asked is because, while I don't know much at all about plex, I know a thing or two about digital audio formats. If you're transcoding to a lossless format, then there is no quality loss because that's literally (not figuratively!) what lossless means - no loss in quality.
Formats like PCM and FLAC are lossless formats (heck, PCM is straight-up uncompressed), AAC is a lossy format. If one were to compare it to image formats, then PCM is BMP, FLAC is PNG, and AAC is JPEG.
There is a teeny bit of a catch though in that it's only truly lossless if you're converting to the same bitdepth, sampling rate, and channel configuration as what the source audio is in (this is usually the most problematic when transcoding from lossy audio though as most semi-modern lossy codecs actually encode at 32bit floating point, so technically any transcoding would also have to be saved as 32bit floating point which support-wise is only well supported in PCM and WavPack, and even then decode support is poorly supported in anything other than software media players - in my experience most embedded devices max out at 24bit).
Anyway, FLAC for example maxes out at 24bit 8-channel but can handle sampling rates even above 192KHz (I've personally tested 264KHz FLAC in foobar2000). PCM can basically be anything however as it being straight-up uncompressed means you can just keep adding more channels, more bits, more samples, etc...as long as the source device can decode it of course.
There's also the issue of dithering in that it's not always clear, even when converting from one lossless 24bit format to another 24bit format, if dither is being applied or not. For true mathematical lossless-ness, you'd not want dither being applied if no other modification to the waveform is occurring (e.g. gain adjustment, resampling, reducing bit depth, channel down-mixing, etc), but even then the audible difference of applying dither with such a 24bit--to->24bit conversion is quite possibly going to be way below the threshold of audibility.
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Just because a format is loss-less, doesn't mean transcoding to it "live" is 1:1 (where remuxing it beforehand can be).
Just to be clear, I was focusing on the fact that the LG CX can't pass through DTS audio tracks. It should pass everything else through fine. Optical audio has a bandwidth limit though so like anything else it can't pass full hdmi audio surround formats from the optical port on the back of the TV. The TV's eARC output can pass full hdmi uncompressed audio formats.
This chart shows the bandwidth limitations between Toslink/optical audio, HDMI-arc, and HDMI-eARC connection types:
My old receiver doesn't have eARC on it so I bought a ~ $150 sharc audio box that essentially "adds an eArc port" and plugs into any hdmi input on a receiver. The sharc box also has other audio breakouts - spdif/optical audio, analog 3.5mm headphone jack, L/R stereo "RCA" analog output.
I was still having enough hiccups on the WebOS plex and emby players to make me opt for blowing the $ on a nvidia shield. I'm passing the shield audio to my sound system directly (only the video from that source back to the tv). Nvidia shields can pass their audio over HDMI to a receiver, to an add-on usb audio device with breakout ports, or to bluetooth speakers or headsets, etc. avoiding passing audio through the TV at all on that hdmi source/input. You can do the same with a pc, connecting the pc sound output directly to something instead of the TV.. but HDR videos aren't quite as accurate to the source on PC even if you use mpc + madVR tonemapping to a madVR 1000nit curve.
-----------------------------------
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mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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"Both ends" in this situation is the input of the adapter and the output of the GPU.
Was this with the internal 100mbps ethernet port, or were you using one of those USB ethernet adapters?
(of course, if the video stream in question isn't anywhere close to 100mbps, e.g. non-UHD Blu-ray rips, then the internal ethernet port only being 100mbps really shouldn't make an impact, but you didn't say anything about the bitrate of the according video streams you were using so I'm kind of just shooting in the dark here)
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l88bastard
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Can I has 42" now?
Yes but you can just run 456.71 driver and it works just fine. That's what I am doing. In any case it's not an issue with DSC like I originally thought, just Nvidia drivers being shitty. I hope they fix this soon.
just throwing this out there but I believe not all GPU HDMI ports are 2.1 on some GPU brands/models that have multiple HDMI ports so make sure your not plugged into an HDMI 2.0 one. If it’s like most models that only has 1 HDMI such as the FE then it’ll definitely be HDMI 2.1.
I may be wrong, but I haven't seen a single graphics card which have both HDMI 2.1 and more than one HDMI port...
Asus Tuf/Strix 3080 / 3090 have two HDMI 2.1 which was tested by multiple sources
Apparently the 48" C1 MSRP is dropping to 1200! Wow. https://www.techradar.com/uk/news/lg-oled-tv-launch-suggests-big-price-drop-from-last-years-sets
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- Jan 14, 2006
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If this is true there would have to be some deep discounts on the 48" CX to get rid of inventory before the C1's come out.
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The Strix has 2x HDMI 2.1 ports.