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LG 48CX

mirkendargen said:
I think it's still zooming personally, it definitely is on the settings menu. Some people never believed it was zooming in the first place so I think it's hard for some people to notice. Or perhaps in an effort to be less noticeable it shifts fractional pixel amounts and leaves artifacts from the processing.
Click to expand...
The settings menu overlay does zoom, but the actual image under it doesn't. Before 03.11.25, the image would zoom as well.

vick1000 said:
It would have to be zooming, unless you have a black line down one or more edges of the screen.
Click to expand...
There is a black line along one edge, and the opposite edge is outside the screen. The adjacent edges are exactly aligned with the screen.
 
Last edited:
Toss3 said:
To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
Click to expand...
Vulkan and some DX12 games supposedly don't need an fps limit in fullscreen exclusive mode. In these titles, Vsync On uses the lowest latency code path, as the game engine decides when to present frames, resulting in 116 fps with G-SYNC + Vsync On without an fps limit.

NVIDIA Reflex achieves the same thing, so you should leave it enabled. It's lower latency than setting only an fps limit.
 
Last edited:
Toss3 said:
To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
Click to expand...
Like Monstieur said, it's Nvidia reflex. But it causes stuttering for me so I have it turned off across the board. For Destiny 2 you also have to turn it off via the game's config file. Not sure how many other games have to be done the same way.
 
Just ordered the 55". Really wanted the GX version as it has smaller bezels. However Costco only had the cx version.

Any ideas where to start so I get this setup with my new 3090 for pc usage, gaming and movies?

My Samsung had to have each source changed for each usage.

Spent the last few hrs reading and just want to ensure I get this calibrated correctly
 
Hi guys, I'm planning to buy CX48 for my PC to be main monitor.
I've read dozens of pages here and would like to ask for a short summary:)
So I understand that there is some issue with setting it up to 4K VRR 120MHz and nvidia cards? LG said they will fix it with new firmware, is that right?
 
dpoverlord said:
Just ordered the 55". Really wanted the GX version as it has smaller bezels. However Costco only had the cx version.

Any ideas where to start so I get this setup with my new 3090 for pc usage, gaming and movies?

My Samsung had to have each source changed for each usage.

Spent the last few hrs reading and just want to ensure I get this calibrated correctly
Click to expand...

Use the recommended settings from TFTCentral or Rtings.com reviews. Use game mode if you want to use with PC as that gives you the lowest input lag.

Personally I don't really bother changing the presets ever and I have the game mode configured pretty much the same as the Expert (dark) that reviews recommend. On my C9 which has consoles hooked up to it each may have a bit different settings as consoles like Switch benefit from a little bit of sharpening and so on.
 
All the modes have incorrect settings out of the box. You should copy these settings to all HDR modes and tweak from there.

OLED LIGHT 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping HGIG / Off
Color Gamut Auto
Color Temperature Warm 2
Real Cinema On

Other settings are user preference, but the above settings have only one correct value for an accurate image. You can change DTM and Sharpness if you really want to, but I wouldn't touch anything else.
 
And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.
 
kalston said:
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)
Click to expand...
You should use Gamma 2.2 for games, applications, and older video content.
Use BT.1886 for Blu-rays, and modern movies & TV shows.
 
Thanks guys
kasakka said:
Use the recommended settings from TFTCentral or Rtings.com reviews. Use game mode if you want to use with PC as that gives you the lowest input lag.

Personally I don't really bother changing the presets ever and I have the game mode configured pretty much the same as the Expert (dark) that reviews recommend. On my C9 which has consoles hooked up to it each may have a bit different settings as consoles like Switch benefit from a little bit of sharpening and so on.
Click to expand...
Monstieur said:
All the modes have incorrect settings out of the box. You should copy these settings to all HDR modes and tweak from there.

OLED LIGHT 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping HGIG / Off
Color Gamut Auto
Color Temperature Warm 2
Real Cinema On

Other settings are user preference, but the above settings have only one correct value for an accurate image. You can change DTM and Sharpness if you really want to, but I wouldn't touch anything else.
Click to expand...

kalston said:
And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.
Click to expand...

Monstieur said:
You should use Gamma 2.2 for games, applications, and older video content.
Use BT.1886 for Blu-rays, and modern movies & TV shows.
Click to expand...


Thanks will put these in. Did any of you do a calibrating machine or anything?

Using the same settings for pc / game & movie mode will be helpful.

My Samsung js9000 has a low lag game mode which is different than pc mode as it's not 4x4x4 chroma.

When yoh go to Blu Ray mode using a pc had significant lag.

Super Pumped to finally being able to game at 100+fps on 4k with this 3090
 
dpoverlord said:
Thanks guys








Thanks will put these in. Did any of you do a calibrating machine or anything?

Using the same settings for pc / game & movie mode will be helpful.

My Samsung js9000 has a low lag game mode which is different than pc mode as it's not 4x4x4 chroma.

When yoh go to Blu Ray mode using a pc had significant lag.

Super Pumped to finally being able to game at 100+fps on 4k with this 3090
Click to expand...

I got a Calman Home license and did an autocalbration. It generally worked well but isn't a ton different than the RTings settings.
 
mirkendargen said:
I got a Calman Home license and did an autocalbration. It generally worked well but isn't a ton different than the RTings settings.
Click to expand...
Was always interested in how those did. I could use a display calibrator now that I changed jobs and my current one doesn't have one in store but the Calman units are expensive and not supported by non-TV devices at least for the auto calibration.
 
Pixel shift definitely does not zoom. It just pans the image around. I can see it happening, as a couple pixels will be cut off on one edge of the screen.
 
Do you need a special calibration device for this TV? I have an i1 display pro, but I assume that doesn't work on OLED.
 
hhkb said:
Do you need a special calibration device for this TV? I have an i1 display pro, but I assume that doesn't work on OLED.
Click to expand...
I think your i1 should work. I used an old Spyder 5 Pro and it was good enough at least for SDR mode. Check if your calibrator software has any tweaks to account for OLEDs. The product page says it should work for OLEDs too.
 
kasakka said:
I think your i1 should work. I used an old Spyder 5 Pro and it was good enough at least for SDR mode. Check if your calibrator software has any tweaks to account for OLEDs. The product page says it should work for OLEDs too.
Click to expand...
Huh you're right. There's even a correction file for it in displaycal that was measured w/ a spectrometer (https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/official-wrgb-oled-correction-file-for-the-i1display-pro/). Nice! I'll have to give this a shot when I get some time.
 
kalston said:
And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.
Click to expand...
Just curious where you got these settings from. Default is 90 contrast, 55 color right?
 
I just copied the ISF settings and it is also what Vincent from HTDVtest (among others) recommends. By default game mode did look noticeably different from ISF.
 
So, Arstechnica got a RX 6800 to play with, and yes, they did a HDMI 2.1 test with the CX:

https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2020...view-the-1440p-gpu-beasts-youve-been-craving/

HDMI 2.1?​

In addition to two DisplayPort connections, the RX 6000 series supports a single HDMI 2.1 connection. Having recently upgraded to an HDMI 2.1 set (a 4K/120Hz, HDR-10 LG CX), I was eager to test this feature, since I got it working with the RTX 3000 series. Sadly, when testing the RX 6800XT, I found myself constantly having to unplug and replug my HDMI 2.1 cable whenever a video source changed due to the HDMI signal getting lost. No settings within AMD's Radeon menus resolved this.

Additionally, with both new AMD GPUs, I ran into an HDMI 2.1 bug of audio constantly cutting out for roughly 1.5 seconds whenever a new audio source began playing after any established silence. I couldn't reproduce this, or any of the image-cutoff issues, with other monitors, connected either via HDMI 2.0 or DisplayPort. This issue may very well be rendered moot after either AMD or LG introduces a patch, but AMD had no solution for me as of press time.
Click to expand...

So more issues to work on it looks like. I'd wager these are more AMD drivers rather then LG problems. But again, goes to show how leading edge tech can be *very* WIP.
 
Any news of the upcoming update ?
I am very tired of waiting and you ?

Here a nice video explain how to activate the update in service mode :


How many in this thread have the last update ?
 
Jctricky said:
Any news of the upcoming update ?
I am very tired of waiting and you ?

Here a nice video explain how to activate the update in service mode :


How many in this thread have the last update ?
Click to expand...

I did it with an ancient Note 3 and the janky Android app.
 
Jctricky said:
Thanks good to know
And it is all good with this firmware ?
Click to expand...
I haven't had any VRR problems, and I haven't seen any new additional problems. Only problem I still have is Quickstart+ randomly turning screenshift on, which has been around forever.
 
Monstieur said:
The stutter has been fixed.
Click to expand...

Looks like he's got 03.21.03 instead of the one we are using 03.11.30. Interesting. Guess that means our engineering firmware will be be superseded, number-wise, and able to be updated when this launched publicly.
 
Wow.....those two most recent posts are ridiculously similar. Jinx. You owe me a soda.

Edit: On second thought, the conclusions we draw are polar opposites.
 
madpistol said:
So happy to see LG being true to their word. This is really exciting for LG CX (BX and GX) owners.
Click to expand...
TBF, given all the 2.1 capable devices are coming out, and the fact the logic for this is going to be similar for the 2021 model year models, it's not shocking it got fixed.

Too bad now I'm waiting on a 3080 Ti, which pushes everything back yet another two months...
 
Today I was about to do some tests with pendulum demo with enabled gsync, but app launched in 2560x1400 @60 (acording hdmi diagnostics) and when I set fps under 80 the display was turning on and off, when I goes way down to like 30 it was more off (black) and just flashed on few times.
with g-sync disabled it was without the issue.
then I switched pendulum back to 4k gsync ON and it was fine.
Any idea what could be the problem ?
 
Jctricky said:
Thanks good to know
And it is all good with this firmware ?
Click to expand...
There's apparently an even newer beta firmware out now 03.21.03 => not sure you want to update as you could get stuck on that firmware if the consumer releases are numbered differently.
 
mirkendargen said:
It's interesting that the firmware version he has is 3.21.XX (potentially won't ever be upgraded outside engineering mode) and the version we've gotten in engineering mode is 3.11.30.
Click to expand...
I just think it's a newer version of the 03.11.30, but I don't want to try to update to it so I don't get stuck. :/
 
Just wait for the official release, otherwise you might run into bugs. That's why those are behind the service menu engineering mode.

The engineering mode is best employed if a new firmware is out but not yet uploaded to your country's LG website or not delivered via OTA. Remember to revert back to user mode after update and be careful with those menus so you don't manage to cause any issues.
 
Is it works on a 55cx européan ? Because i don't see the OLED55CX6LA.
To install the update you put the file on the root of an usb drive and connect to the TV but i am concern about the region of this update for european model
 
Does anyone know if I can use latest firmware that fixes the gsync stuttering on the Australian model CX 48"?

Just got mine today, gona fire it up tommorow.
 
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