LG 48CX

I think nVidia only introduced VRR/G-Sync compatible over HDMI on the 2xxx series.

I know I got an overpriced 2070S opposed to a 1080Ti because of some sort of G-Sync compatibility concerns.
 
rinaldo00 said:
That is what I thought. I had this all figured out back when Nvidia added VRR ability to the 2000 series but now so many posts in this thread saying they are waiting for their 3000 series card to try this out have me confused.

So all the posts from people saying we need 3000 series cards are only talking about 4k@120 4:4:4?

I am still using a Titan Xp until stock from either Nvidia or AMD.
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Yeah the core thing was being able to do 4k 120hz 4:4:4 HDR. Some people got the Club3d DP1.4->HDMI2.1 adapter that let them run 4k 120hz 4:4:4 HDR...but didn't support VRR. They are probably the ones you saw saying "waiting for 3000 series for VRR!!!"

And yeah it was ONLY on Turing cards.
 
steiNetti said:
Yeah, but still - what's the alternative? 120 zone FALD with generally worse blacks than even the "raised blacks" on the CX, halos, no VRR and/or no 120Hz support at all?

Right now it's imho either:
A) turn off VRR
B) run at 60Hz VRR
C) live with raised blacks
D) get a 4k€ Alienware OLED that doesn't even have HDMI 2.1 and worse peak brightness (and probably the same raised black issues..?)
E) wait for LG C11 to maybe fix it
F) wait for microLED (miniLED isn't going to cut it against OLED)

Imho it's extreme nitpicking in 2020 for that price point as there is no alternative.

Not saying it is irrelevant, it IS an issue. But it shouldn't be a dealbreaker (vs other current gen TVs/monitors) as ALL current alternatives are worse in many other ways, and especially including blacks.

If you want 4k120 VRR and perfect black in 2020 there currently is no way around LG.
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G) Turn brightness down 2 clicks
H) Calibrate the tv following the german guide
I) Keep frame rates high enough that it's barely noticeable
 
mirkendargen said:
Yeah the core thing was being able to do 4k 120hz 4:4:4 HDR. Some people got the Club3d DP1.4->HDMI2.1 adapter that let them run 4k 120hz 4:4:4 HDR...but didn't support VRR. They are probably the ones you saw saying "waiting for 3000 series for VRR!!!"

And yeah it was ONLY on Turing cards.
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OK, glad I had this correct in the first place. The "waiting for 3000 series for VRR!!!" posts had me confused.
 
MistaSparkul said:
G) Turn brightness down 2 clicks
H) Calibrate the tv following the german guide
I) Keep frame rates high enough that it's barely noticeable
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What framerates have you found it become noticeable? The only time I've seen it happen is in the dead by daylight vid I postd earlier, and in the post-benchmark screen of shadow of the tomb raider if you mouse over the graphs. Mousing over those graphs drops the game to 8 fps and is a great way to exageratedly show the problem. But I'm curious to know the realworld, in-game use number of fps where we'll see the gamma shift more. Stay above 70? 90? 110?
 
Timmehh said:
What framerates have you found it become noticeable? The only time I've seen it happen is in the dead by daylight vid I postd earlier, and in the post-benchmark screen of shadow of the tomb raider if you mouse over the graphs. Mousing over those graphs drops the game to 8 fps and is a great way to exageratedly show the problem. But I'm curious to know the realworld, in-game use number of fps where we'll see the gamma shift more. Stay above 70? 90? 110?
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It's heavily going to depend on the game. I would imagine Control's color palette makes the issue super easy to spot while other games will be more difficult to notice it. I've been playing a bunch of older/easier to run titles on my CX with a 2080 Ti so I've been averaging over 100fps in those games and that has been working well for me.
 
My frame rate is typically between 60 and 120 fps, and I've never really noticed the raised blacks. Maybe it's apparent at even lower frame rates, but at that point LFC should be multiplying the frame rate to above 60 fps anyway.
 
netjack said:
You realize this is the CX forum right? You get all our hopes up until you realize it has nothing to do w/ the tv that's the focus of this thread - lol!
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C9 and CX are having some of the same issues. Firmwares are being currently updated
 
Having serious doubts on this display now.

Going to wait for firmwire updates now.

I want 4K 444 HDR + VRR
otherwise I will wait out another generation.

EDIT: Well I am an idiot, I just had to impulse buy it. Now it's on pre-order.

Hope I am not let down...

:)
 
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shadow2761 said:
Having serious doubts on this display now.

Going to wait for firmwire updates now.

I want 4K 444 HDR + VRR
otherwise I will wait out another generation.

EDIT: Well I am an idiot, I just had to impulse buy it. Now it's on pre-order.

Hope I am not let down...

:)
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Yeah, I know that feeling. "I'm gonna wait, I'm gonna wait.." Next thing I remember was the checkout dialog 😂

I don't regret my descicion coming from a 43" 4k60 VA monitor. The LG CX is just phantastic and we're nitpicking at a very high level here.
 
I do not doubt there are issues, but I have not noticed any and really enjoy the display. I do however get an incompatible format message on the display occasionally and have to reboot it. Any thoughts on a fix for that?
 
SixFootDuo said:
C9 and CX are having some of the same issues. Firmwares are being currently updated
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For what it's worth, thats the FW that supposedly fixes the Gsync issues on the C9. And over at AVS there's a few people claiming the beta firmware now out for the CX fixes the problems, with an expected release around the third/fourth week of November.

Fingers crossed.
 
gamerk2 said:
For what it's worth, thats the FW that supposedly fixes the Gsync issues on the C9. And over at AVS there's a few people claiming the beta firmware now out for the CX fixes the problems, with an expected release around the third/fourth week of November.

Fingers crossed.
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Is there any way to apply to become a part of the firmware beta?
 
Meanwhile in other news, I just mounted my LG CX 48 on this floor stand/trolley. I previously had the TV on a heavy duty monitor arm using a VESA 100x100 -> 300x200 adapter but that limited me to the depth of my desk. With the floor stand I can push the display back to about 100-120 cm which feels like a more optimal distance for this behemoth compared to my previous 85-90 cm. The stand seems good quality and was easy to assemble and mount the TV. The only problem is that when the TV is set at desk height, the pillar it is mounted on pokes up from behind the TV like a chimney. I might have to eventually saw it shorter to hide it.

I chose this stand because it can be put pretty close to a wall thanks to its base design and it had enough adjustment range to go low enough to sit level with my desk plus had tilt option to set it at the exact right angle. The included shelf was useful for hiding my USB switch and power strip as well as some other cables.
 
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Those of you with 3000 series cards...was the only way to get 120 hz was to select the "custom" PC resolution and not under the Ultra HD listings? RBG and 10 bpc are the max via HDMI 2.1, correct? What are the ideal settings otherwise (both TV and nvidia control panel)?
 
kasakka said:
I previously had the TV on a heavy duty monitor arm using a VESA 100x100 -> 300x200 adapter but that limited me to the depth of my desk.
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kasakka - can you let me know what desk mount you used previously? I have a deep, custom-made butcher block desk and the TV on stand is just right for distance, but I'd like to get the TV off the desk (for potentially putting a sound bar beneath it at some point).
 
kasakka said:
Meanwhile in other news, I just mounted my LG CX 48 on this floor stand/trolley. I previously had the TV on a heavy duty monitor arm using a VESA 100x100 -> 300x200 adapter but that limited me to the depth of my desk. With the floor stand I can push the display back to about 100-120 cm which feels like a more optimal distance for this behemoth compared to my previous 85-90 cm. The stand seems good quality and was easy to assemble and mount the TV. The only problem is that when the TV is set at desk height, the pillar it is mounted on pokes up from behind the TV like a chimney. I might have to eventually saw it shorter to hide it.

I chose this stand because it can be put pretty close to a wall thanks to its base design and it had enough adjustment range to go low enough to sit level with my desk plus had tilt option to set it at the exact right angle. The included shelf was useful for hiding my USB switch and power strip as well as some other cables.
Click to expand...

The cheapest option is just put another table in behind your table and put the LG on that, you can use whatever piece of furniture with good height. If its needed just make bigger gap between these two tables. I am also now at about +-110cm which is quite okay
 
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lunchtime said:
kasakka - can you let me know what desk mount you used previously? I have a deep, custom-made butcher block desk and the TV on stand is just right for distance, but I'd like to get the TV off the desk (for potentially putting a sound bar beneath it at some point).
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I used a Multibrackets VESA HD Gas lift arm paired with a VESA 100x100 to 300x200 adapter off Amazon (sold under multiple brands). I don't recommend it, its tilt can't handle heavy/big displays and support from the company never bothered to answer my emails. The actual product is otherwise nice and easy to assemble, the tilt is just no good.

I would go wall mount if you can. With the position mine is in that was not an option so the floorstand was the next best thing.
 
I'm getting pretty frequent black screen blanking after updating to the latest Nvidia driver with a 3080 but it could be my cable. Any suggestions for a cable?
 
Hey all, I'm trying to play videos that are on my PC on my LG TV. I'm getting "no photo video files exsist in storage device"

What gives? The same videos show up fine on a USB stick when attached to the TV, so it's not that. The TV is hooked in through ethernet, though trying on WiFi didn't change anything. The PC is connected over WiFi.

The files themselves are on a separate drive, but it can see subfolders on that drive, it just doesn't see the .mkv or mpg files inside those folders.


Love the TV btw!
 
SoCali said:
I'm getting pretty frequent black screen blanking after updating to the latest Nvidia driver with a 3080 but it could be my cable. Any suggestions for a cable?
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mirkendargen confirmed on the previous page that the Zeskit 6’ from Amazon works...there are probably others, though. Wish we had a confirmed list of brands and lengths but my plan was to try the Zeskit if my current high speed cable doesn’t work. I think it’s a Mediabridge and it solved the sparkling issues that I was having at 4K/60Hz. Worth a shot I suppose.
 
I get flickering like crazy since Beyond Light Destiny 2 update. Bummer. I don't see frame dips happening. But it's flickering like there are a bunch of them.
 
Lateralus said:
mirkendargen confirmed on the previous page that the Zeskit 6’ from Amazon works...there are probably others, though. Wish we had a confirmed list of brands and lengths but my plan was to try the Zeskit if my current high speed cable doesn’t work. I think it’s a Mediabridge and it solved the sparkling issues that I was having at 4K/60Hz. Worth a shot I suppose.
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Yup I've never had any screen blanking with the Zeskit. I had the white column artifacts and thought that was a cable problem, but it was a false alarm and caused by the HDMI port not being set to PC (forgot to set it again after changing GPUs).
 
Lateralus said:
mirkendargen confirmed on the previous page that the Zeskit 6’ from Amazon works...there are probably others, though. Wish we had a confirmed list of brands and lengths but my plan was to try the Zeskit if my current high speed cable doesn’t work. I think it’s a Mediabridge and it solved the sparkling issues that I was having at 4K/60Hz. Worth a shot I suppose.
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I actually bought the 10FT one of this Zeskit when my 3080 first arrived over a month ago and it wouldn't work at 4K/120hz. I'm now using a random cable from a box full of cables but just today it's blanking out so not sure if it's the cable or drivers. Are you guys using the 6.5FT one?

My PS5 should be here Friday which ships with a supposedly legit HDMI 2.1 cable so I'll try that first.
 
Personally, I think the VRR raised blacks is a pretty minor issue. If you are near 120Hz the gamma shift will be extremely minimal. I've never personally noticed any problem across multiple games and wouldn't have been aware of it if I hadn't seen the reports. I haven't tried this yet, but if your game is running at 60 fps like Control, can't you just run your monitor at 60Hz so the gamma is calibrated correctly? Even with this issue, you won't find a monitor with better PQ right now.

Now the g-sync stuttering is a real problem that needs to get sorted. I tried the workaround suggested earlier (uncheck "enable for selected display"), but this actually seems to disable g-sync completely. It's smooth but I get tearing as a result.

I also find the rtings input delay measurements pretty weird. Why would VRR have higher input lag than non-VRR? They must have messed that up somehow. Anyways, I've found for competitive gaming that you can just run 1440p or 1080p non-scaled and the input delay is non-existent (but I can't really notice it at 4k either).
 
If you're looking for a cable, I can confirm the KabelDirekt UltraHD 3m cable works well.
 
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hhkb said:
Personally, I think the VRR raised blacks is a pretty minor issue. If you are near 120Hz the gamma shift will be extremely minimal. I've never personally noticed any problem across multiple games and wouldn't have been aware of it if I hadn't seen the reports. I haven't tried this yet, but if your game is running at 60 fps like Control, can't you just run your monitor at 60Hz so the gamma is calibrated correctly? Even with this issue, you won't find a monitor with better PQ right now.

Now the g-sync stuttering is a real problem that needs to get sorted. I tried the workaround suggested earlier (uncheck "enable for selected display"), but this actually seems to disable g-sync completely. It's smooth but I get tearing as a result.

I also find the rtings input delay measurements pretty weird. Why would VRR have higher input lag than non-VRR? They must have messed that up somehow. Anyways, I've found for competitive gaming that you can just run 1440p or 1080p non-scaled and the input delay is non-existent (but I can't really notice it at 4k either).
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Running at 60hz does not fix it. The panel still runs 120hz internally as it does at any refresh rate (don't ask me how the 100hz mode works though - as that's a not a multiple of 120).

Anyway I agree it's pretty minor, most people will not notice it - but they might notice flashing in dark games with a framerate that fluctuates very wildly and drops low enough. Even with VRR I frequently cap my frames way below the refresh rate to get a more consistent experience anyway - but of course people are free to do it their own way. For example in the latest Assassin's Creed games or Control I cap my frames at 60 even though some scenes will give me 100+ frames - because the average uncapped framerate is around 60 (with some dips below that) so I prefer to make it stable - this way I get used to a certain feeling for that particular game and it's more immersive. Can also help with noise and heat in summer :)

The workaround from the German guy posted earlier works superbly for the games you know you'll be playing around 60fps (hello Control, hello AC). It doesn't work too bad at 100+fps either, since it makes near black tones darker rather than brighter, it never looks ugly (but yeah at 100-120fps you'll crush some dark details).
 
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I'm pretty sure the gamma is correctly calibrated at 60Hz, isn't it? If I game at 60Hz gamma looks fine. The issue is running at a particular refresh rate with VRR enabled - the gamma won't calibrate correctly for the actual refresh rate as it drops - it is stuck at the max refresh. So I'd expect 60Hz VRR to work better than 120Hz VRR since it will use the 60Hz gamma curve. But you're saying with VRR enabled, it always uses the 120Hz gamma curve? That sounds like something that should be easy to fix though, but maybe it's just the way the VRR module works. If so that would be pretty annoying. I will have to test this out myself more to see.
 
kalston said:
LG explicity said gamma is calibrated at 120hz only. It was posted earlier in this thread.

edit: https://www.oled-a.org/lgersquos-48rdquo-oled-attracting-game-monitor-buyers_9620.html

And yeah I have tested 60hz VRR myself (just like the German guy did in his video) and the gamma issue is obvious if you know where to look.
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If that's true it means any 60 fps content would have gamma shift issues, wouldn't it? Most consoles run at 60Hz Vsync for example. These have raised blacks as well?
 
hhkb said:
If that's true it means any 60 fps content would have gamma shift issues, wouldn't it? Most consoles run at 60Hz Vsync for example. These have raised blacks as well?
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I think only in combination with VRR though.

If not it would also mean it has to be broken on basically everything that runs on 60Hz, including Netflix, Prime and other apps that don't do a refreshrate switch..

Or it may only be a problem in gamemode.. then you could work around that by using another mode on non lag sensitive singleplayer games..
 
No it's only VRR. There is zero issue with fixed refresh rate mode (any hz & any fps). No matter the refresh rate you select, the TV runs internally at 120hz (this is common practice, it's not anything new). But in VRR it can't always run at 120hz, that's when the issue occurs.
 
If the panel is only refreshing at 60hz, and the gamma is fine, that means it's not just calibrated for 120Hz. It must be calibrated to run at these other refresh rates already, or we would see gamma shift problems at all refresh rates not 120Hz. Unless you're saying that it refreshes the pixels at 120Hz even if the input is 60Hz/24Hz, etc. but I don't think that's the case. That's why I was thinking it seems the problem is directly related to what refresh rate you run VRR at, so running VRR at 60Hz in theory should use the 60Hz gamma curve. Unless there is just something buggered w/ VRR completely so it always uses the 120Hz gamma curve regardless of what refresh rate you set the panel to.
 
Yeah without VRR the TV is always processing the image (refreshing the pixels as you said) at 120hz, no matter the refresh rate you select. So the optimized 120hz gamma curve fully applies.

But with VRR enabled the actual refresh rate will change and can drop low enough to cause problems. Edit: this guy explains how VRR works better. Since the issue has been shown on LCDs, it appears the only reason we are talking about it now is because OLED blacks (and by extension near-blacks*) are so low that for the first time the issue is becoming visible. (not sure though)

*for the record absolute blacks are not affected because the pixels are just turned off then. It's the near-black shades that are affected because they require a very subtle and very precise amount of voltage to look correct on OLED panels.
 
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With HDMI 2.1, is it now preferable to set your HDMI input to PC mode vs game mode? I remember over the summer people were recommending Game Mode with HDMI 2.0, but I don't remember why...
 
hhkb said:
Anyways, I've found for competitive gaming that you can just run 1440p or 1080p non-scaled and the input delay is non-existent (but I can't really notice it at 4k either).
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If the input lag is 13.x ms or less on the LG CX, and you run frame rate averages like:

------------------------
100fpsHz average
-------------------------
(70) - 85fpsHz <<<<<<< 100 ave >>>>>>>> 115 (130) fpsHz

14.3ms - 11.8ms <<<<< 10ms ave >>>>>>>> 8.7ms (117fps cap = 8.5ms)

------------------------
75fpsHz average
------------------------
(40) - 60fpsHz <<<<<<<< 75 ave >>>>> 90 (105) fpsHz

25ms - 16.7ms <<<<<<<< 13.3ms >>>>> 11.1ms ( to 9.52)

--------------------------

At 100fpsHz average, 2/3 of your frame rate graph is being delivered nearly at your 13.x input lag in local single player games

At 75fpsHz average, that average is practically even with the input lag of the LG CX, so again 2/3 of the graph are delivered at or slower than the input lag in local single player games.

Delivered at or especially slower than the input lag means you aren't seeing any new game world ~ action state "slices" any sooner than your input lag or report rate, and that doesn't even take into account your reaction time which is always a non zero number no matter how good you think you are.

Since you said competitively I'm assuming you mean online gaming rather than local single player gameplay leaderboards. The whole chain of online latency/player pings and the server code interpolation means you would not see a new world action state "slice" for many frames later, dwarfing your local input periods.

Your interp value of 15.6ms on 128tick server (or much, much worse outside of the best 128 tick games) is alone larger than your input lag on a LG CX .. before adding your ping time. It's not cut and dry with latency compensation sort of rubberbanding things, and game physics like world of warcraft's spell casting being at a different lower tick rater than the rest of the game for example, but just from the raw numbers you can see that you would be way behind your input lag from any competitive edge perspective in online gaming, as well as considering everyone else's latency chains resolving (both teammates and enemies).. and the quality of the game's network code. If you were playing competitively in an arena or at a party all on the same LAN on a very high tick server that would be different, but the marketing of "360Hz" 4ms input lag monitors as if the online game matches are delivering and receiving at that rate is false advertising.

https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044799485
For example a good server game with 128 tick servers and using interp ratio 2 (to avoid huge 250 ms hits on missed packets) would have 15.6ms interpolation + 25ms to 40ms (your ping). So say 41ms to 56ms just for your own actions not counting lag compensation between other players. Lets say 56ms for now on the higher 128tick servers (though most games are much longer tick). 56ms is 6.6 frames of time on a 120hz monitor at 117fps solid (8.5ms per frame). So you aren't seeing new world updates for every 6 or 7 frames, maybe worse in relation to syncing with your next local (8.5ms) frame draw.

On a more traditional 64tick , 22tick, or 12 tick online game the numbers go up by a lot:

128tick at interp_2 = 15ms + (25 - 40ms) ping = 40ms to 55ms ~~~~~~~~~> 5 to 7 frames before new action/world state data is show (at 117fps solid)
64 tick at interp_2 = 31.2ms + (25 - 40ms) ping = 56ms to 71ms ~~~~~~~~> 7 to 8 frames
22 tick at interp_2 = 90ms + (20 - 40ms) ping = 110ms to 130ms ~~~~~~~~> 13 to 15 frames
12 tick at interp_2 = 166ms + (20 - 40ms)ping = 186ms to 206ms ~~~~~~~> 22 to 24 frames

If you set interp_1 then the tick interpolation time would be halved (minus 1 frame, 2 frames, 5 frames, 10 frames respectively) - but any lost packet at all would hit you with a 250ms delay /8.5ms per frame = 29 frames.

Command Execution Time = Current Server Time – (Packet Latency + Client View Interpolation)

For reference, tick rates of some common online games:

Valorant: 128tick
Specific paid matchmaking services like ESEA: 128tick
CSGO ("normal" servers): 64tick
Overwatch: 63
Fortnite: 60 (I think, used to be 20 or 30)
COD Modern Warfare mp lobbies: 22tick
COD Modern Warfare custom lobbies: 12tick


Some have guessed that League of Legends tick rate is around 30.
ESO PvE / PvP: ??
WoW PvE / PvP ?? .. World of warcraft processes spells at a lower 'tick rate' so is a bit more complicated, but overall the tick rate probably isn't that great.
https://us.forums.blizzard.com/en/wow/t/is-classic-getting-dedicated-physical-servers/167546/81




https://happygamer.com/modern-warfa...or-a-game-that-wants-to-be-competitive-50270/
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I have a stupid question or comment. Through the years, I have always gamed at 1080 and 1440p without Gsync and freesync. Sometimes when playing on a 75hz refresh monitor (most professional monitors are 75hz), I would turn on Vsync only. On other gaming monitors (144-165), I simply leave Gsync and/or freesync off.
You guys state there is flickering with Gsync/Freesync? Why not just leave it off? Am I missing something?
Surely your graphics cards can push 120 fps without breaking a sweat? I do not understand the problem?

Another point. When you activate 1440p in windowed mode, what does the screen size become? For example on a 32" 1440p monitor when you activate a lower resolution (1080) the screen size goes from 32" to 24". ??
 
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