LG 48CX

Correct, and it's still blurring text, that's how I noticed it.
But if Screenshift doesn't zoom and only shifts the picture around, leaving borders opposite of the direction it's temporarily shifted to blank, Shouldn't it not have an affect on whether or not text is blurry? It's still 1:1 pixel usage. Just all the pixels are shifted a few pixels in whichever direction it's currently shifted.

Trying to understand this because if my description is correct and it's NOT zooming like I guessed it would, and therefore still 1:1, I might actually start using it.
 
But if Screenshift doesn't zoom and only shifts the picture around, leaving borders opposite of the direction it's temporarily shifted to blank, Shouldn't it not have an affect on whether or not text is blurry? It's still 1:1 pixel usage. Just all the pixels are shifted a few pixels in whichever direction it's currently shifted.

Trying to understand this because if my description is correct and it's NOT zooming like I guessed it would, and therefore still 1:1, I might actually start using it.
I think it's still zooming personally, it definitely is on the settings menu. Some people never believed it was zooming in the first place so I think it's hard for some people to notice. Or perhaps in an effort to be less noticeable it shifts fractional pixel amounts and leaves artifacts from the processing.
 
It would have to be zooming, unless you have a black line down one or more edges of the screen.
 
It would have to be zooming, unless you have a black line down one or more edges of the screen.
That's what we're trying to nail down. I'm trying to determine if there are black edges from the screen being shifted. But it's hard to tell because the pixels are so small, and them being off looks the same as the bezel.
And then there's the question of if it's both that AND zooming. Not zooming would be better because then it would be 1:1 pixel usage across the TV minus the blank edges.
 
To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
 
To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
117fps limit set where, and 116fps measured where?

I have 117fps set in NVCP (not in game or RTSS), and am measuring 117fps with RTSS. I'm on 457.30 (latest I believe).
 
117fps limit set where, and 116fps measured where?

I have 117fps set in NVCP (not in game or RTSS), and am measuring 117fps with RTSS. I'm on 457.30 (latest I believe).
117fps cap set in game and vsync set from NVCP, but it was apparently nvidia reflex that caused the issue (not sure why it affects g-sync+vsync => probably a bug). Disabled it and getting the full 117fps now!
 
That's what we're trying to nail down. I'm trying to determine if there are black edges from the screen being shifted. But it's hard to tell because the pixels are so small, and them being off looks the same as the bezel.
And then there's the question of if it's both that AND zooming. Not zooming would be better because then it would be 1:1 pixel usage across the TV minus the blank edges.
I have a Philips OLED in my livingroom and the screenshift moves the picture a couple of pixels left and right every once in a while. My LG CX in the bedroom just seems to "zoom in" 1 pixel, so i believe it uses some other method. Since on my Philips i have still see my entire cursor in the top and bottom of the monitor, but on my LG the cursor gets "cut off" by all the screen edges. If that makes sense....
 
A few months ago the scrollbar auto hide option deep in Chrome flags stopped working, now there is a huge default always present white scrollbar.

What do you OLED guys do for such things? A quick glance at the extension store didn't have any extremely simple (no other bloat) scrollbar mod with high ratings.
 
But if Screenshift doesn't zoom and only shifts the picture around, leaving borders opposite of the direction it's temporarily shifted to blank, Shouldn't it not have an affect on whether or not text is blurry? It's still 1:1 pixel usage. Just all the pixels are shifted a few pixels in whichever direction it's currently shifted.

Trying to understand this because if my description is correct and it's NOT zooming like I guessed it would, and therefore still 1:1, I might actually start using it.
That's how it's supposed to work and that's how it actually works now with 03.11.25 or higher firmware.

The bug was that when running at 4K 120 Hz, it would cause like some sort of overscan (underscan?) effect that would zoom the image a bit causing pixel mapping to not be 1:1 anymore.

Now it will just randomly cut a few pixels out of your screen.

A few months ago the scrollbar auto hide option deep in Chrome flags stopped working, now there is a huge default always present white scrollbar.

What do you OLED guys do for such things? A quick glance at the extension store didn't have any extremely simple (no other bloat) scrollbar mod with high ratings.
Nothing much you can do about it other than switch to MacOS which will hide scrollbars automatically. There isn't just much capability to either style or change the behavior of scrollbars in Windows which is a bummer.

Best case scenario would be apps automatically starting to use the small sliver scrollbar you can see in for example Windows settings instead of the legacy big bar.
 
You can try this for chrome with this Rescroller addon, editing the scrollbar size to "none" as described in the link below.

https://www.quora.com/How-would-I-remove-or-hide-the-scrollbars-from-Google-Chrome

You can try using WinAeroTweaker app to set all of the windows scrollbars and window frames to being very slim also.

I would experiment with dark themes too to see if you can make the bars black.

You could also try using some software with window placement functions.. (Displayfusion or others) so that you can activate/hotkey exact window placements. Set the chrome window's placement so that chrome's scrollbar is just offscreen as if you dragged the window there yourself.

But for me personally, I'll be using separate monitor(s) for desktop/apps like some others do in this thread. The OLED will be a blacked out wallpaper media and gaming "stage".
 
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A few months ago the scrollbar auto hide option deep in Chrome flags stopped working, now there is a huge default always present white scrollbar.

What do you OLED guys do for such things? A quick glance at the extension store didn't have any extremely simple (no other bloat) scrollbar mod with high ratings.
I just don't leave a browser maximized on the screen for long periods of time, and non-maximized browsers vary in their location so it's no big deal. Theoretically I guess this wears the right half of the screen more....but I HIGHLY doubt it will have any noticeable impact.

And I'm not sitting on the desktop looking at white browser scrollbars at max brightness.
 
Yeah it's the bottom of the list of my problems too. The only reason I care about it at all is with Quickstart+ enabled turning off the TV doesn't trigger an "unplug" event on the display and rearrange all your windows. Since I'm obviously turning the display off when I'm leaving the computer, it's an annoyance, albeit a minor one.
Interesting that you're having that issue. I do not. My window positions remain after powering on the display with Quickstart+ disabled. I did have that issue with my 2015 Samsung 48JS9000 Quantum Dot display, though. If I remember correctly, all of my application windows would snap to the upper left hand corner of the screen and I'd have to reposition them. But no such issues with the 48CX.
 
You can try this for chrome with this Rescroller addon, editing the scrollbar size to "none" as described in the link below.

https://www.quora.com/How-would-I-remove-or-hide-the-scrollbars-from-Google-Chrome

You can try using WinAeroTweaker app to set all of the windows scrollbars and window frames to being very slim also.

I would experiment with dark themes too to see if you can make the bars black.

You could also try using some software with window placement functions.. (Displayfusion or others) so that you can activate/hotkey exact window placements. Set the chrome window's placement so that chrome's scrollbar is just offscreen as if you dragged the window there yourself.

But for me personally, I'll be using separate monitor(s) for desktop/apps like some others do in this thread. The OLED will be a blacked out wallpaper media and gaming "stage".

Thanks!
the "can view and modify all content on every webpage" kind of freaks me out... hope it's not going to cost me my battlenet account or something! :eek:
 
Thanks!
the "can view and modify all content on every webpage" kind of freaks me out... hope it's not going to cost me my battlenet account or something! :eek:

I can move my browser off to the side just enough to hide the scroll bar, then just use the mouse wheel to scroll. With displayfusion or other window placement software you can set up window positions for apps so chrome would pop to that position when you hit a hotkey. That seems like a fairly easy workaround where you could make the scrollbar exactly offscreen.
 
I think it's still zooming personally, it definitely is on the settings menu. Some people never believed it was zooming in the first place so I think it's hard for some people to notice. Or perhaps in an effort to be less noticeable it shifts fractional pixel amounts and leaves artifacts from the processing.
The settings menu overlay does zoom, but the actual image under it doesn't. Before 03.11.25, the image would zoom as well.

It would have to be zooming, unless you have a black line down one or more edges of the screen.
There is a black line along one edge, and the opposite edge is outside the screen. The adjacent edges are exactly aligned with the screen.
 
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To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
Vulkan and some DX12 games supposedly don't need an fps limit in fullscreen exclusive mode. In these titles, Vsync On uses the lowest latency code path, as the game engine decides when to present frames, resulting in 116 fps with G-SYNC + Vsync On without an fps limit.

NVIDIA Reflex achieves the same thing, so you should leave it enabled. It's lower latency than setting only an fps limit.
 
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To the guys saying 117fps is smooth using the latest 03.11.30 firmware; I'm using the same firmware myself and still getting 116fps when using G-Sync + Vsync with a 117fps cap, so not sure what's going on? What drivers are you using?
Like Monstieur said, it's Nvidia reflex. But it causes stuttering for me so I have it turned off across the board. For Destiny 2 you also have to turn it off via the game's config file. Not sure how many other games have to be done the same way.
 
Just ordered the 55". Really wanted the GX version as it has smaller bezels. However Costco only had the cx version.

Any ideas where to start so I get this setup with my new 3090 for pc usage, gaming and movies?

My Samsung had to have each source changed for each usage.

Spent the last few hrs reading and just want to ensure I get this calibrated correctly
 
Hi guys, I'm planning to buy CX48 for my PC to be main monitor.
I've read dozens of pages here and would like to ask for a short summary:)
So I understand that there is some issue with setting it up to 4K VRR 120MHz and nvidia cards? LG said they will fix it with new firmware, is that right?
 
Just ordered the 55". Really wanted the GX version as it has smaller bezels. However Costco only had the cx version.

Any ideas where to start so I get this setup with my new 3090 for pc usage, gaming and movies?

My Samsung had to have each source changed for each usage.

Spent the last few hrs reading and just want to ensure I get this calibrated correctly

Use the recommended settings from TFTCentral or Rtings.com reviews. Use game mode if you want to use with PC as that gives you the lowest input lag.

Personally I don't really bother changing the presets ever and I have the game mode configured pretty much the same as the Expert (dark) that reviews recommend. On my C9 which has consoles hooked up to it each may have a bit different settings as consoles like Switch benefit from a little bit of sharpening and so on.
 
All the modes have incorrect settings out of the box. You should copy these settings to all HDR modes and tweak from there.

OLED LIGHT 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping HGIG / Off
Color Gamut Auto
Color Temperature Warm 2
Real Cinema On

Other settings are user preference, but the above settings have only one correct value for an accurate image. You can change DTM and Sharpness if you really want to, but I wouldn't touch anything else.
 
And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.
 
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)
You should use Gamma 2.2 for games, applications, and older video content.
Use BT.1886 for Blu-rays, and modern movies & TV shows.
 
Thanks guys
Use the recommended settings from TFTCentral or Rtings.com reviews. Use game mode if you want to use with PC as that gives you the lowest input lag.

Personally I don't really bother changing the presets ever and I have the game mode configured pretty much the same as the Expert (dark) that reviews recommend. On my C9 which has consoles hooked up to it each may have a bit different settings as consoles like Switch benefit from a little bit of sharpening and so on.
All the modes have incorrect settings out of the box. You should copy these settings to all HDR modes and tweak from there.

OLED LIGHT 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Dynamic Tone Mapping HGIG / Off
Color Gamut Auto
Color Temperature Warm 2
Real Cinema On

Other settings are user preference, but the above settings have only one correct value for an accurate image. You can change DTM and Sharpness if you really want to, but I wouldn't touch anything else.

And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.

You should use Gamma 2.2 for games, applications, and older video content.
Use BT.1886 for Blu-rays, and modern movies & TV shows.


Thanks will put these in. Did any of you do a calibrating machine or anything?

Using the same settings for pc / game & movie mode will be helpful.

My Samsung js9000 has a low lag game mode which is different than pc mode as it's not 4x4x4 chroma.

When yoh go to Blu Ray mode using a pc had significant lag.

Super Pumped to finally being able to game at 100+fps on 4k with this 3090
 
Thanks guys








Thanks will put these in. Did any of you do a calibrating machine or anything?

Using the same settings for pc / game & movie mode will be helpful.

My Samsung js9000 has a low lag game mode which is different than pc mode as it's not 4x4x4 chroma.

When yoh go to Blu Ray mode using a pc had significant lag.

Super Pumped to finally being able to game at 100+fps on 4k with this 3090

I got a Calman Home license and did an autocalbration. It generally worked well but isn't a ton different than the RTings settings.
 
I got a Calman Home license and did an autocalbration. It generally worked well but isn't a ton different than the RTings settings.
Was always interested in how those did. I could use a display calibrator now that I changed jobs and my current one doesn't have one in store but the Calman units are expensive and not supported by non-TV devices at least for the auto calibration.
 
Pixel shift definitely does not zoom. It just pans the image around. I can see it happening, as a couple pixels will be cut off on one edge of the screen.
 
Do you need a special calibration device for this TV? I have an i1 display pro, but I assume that doesn't work on OLED.
 
Do you need a special calibration device for this TV? I have an i1 display pro, but I assume that doesn't work on OLED.
I think your i1 should work. I used an old Spyder 5 Pro and it was good enough at least for SDR mode. Check if your calibrator software has any tweaks to account for OLEDs. The product page says it should work for OLEDs too.
 
I think your i1 should work. I used an old Spyder 5 Pro and it was good enough at least for SDR mode. Check if your calibrator software has any tweaks to account for OLEDs. The product page says it should work for OLEDs too.
Huh you're right. There's even a correction file for it in displaycal that was measured w/ a spectrometer (https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/official-wrgb-oled-correction-file-for-the-i1display-pro/). Nice! I'll have to give this a shot when I get some time.
 
And similarly for SDR you should use:
OLED LIGHT : you decide based on ambient light, 20-30 for dark rooms is great - the lower the better for burn-in (and eye strain, when used in a dark room)
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Color Temperature Warm 2
Gamme 2.2 (2.4 is in theory better for dark rooms, but most content targets 2.2 so you lose shadow details with 2.4, you do see a lot less compression artefacts as well though so IDK, personal choice again)

After doing the above I can't see any difference at all between ISF (factory calibrated) and game mode. So I just leave PC mode + game mode on even for video content.
Just curious where you got these settings from. Default is 90 contrast, 55 color right?
 
I just copied the ISF settings and it is also what Vincent from HTDVtest (among others) recommends. By default game mode did look noticeably different from ISF.
 
So, Arstechnica got a RX 6800 to play with, and yes, they did a HDMI 2.1 test with the CX:

https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2020...view-the-1440p-gpu-beasts-youve-been-craving/

HDMI 2.1?​

In addition to two DisplayPort connections, the RX 6000 series supports a single HDMI 2.1 connection. Having recently upgraded to an HDMI 2.1 set (a 4K/120Hz, HDR-10 LG CX), I was eager to test this feature, since I got it working with the RTX 3000 series. Sadly, when testing the RX 6800XT, I found myself constantly having to unplug and replug my HDMI 2.1 cable whenever a video source changed due to the HDMI signal getting lost. No settings within AMD's Radeon menus resolved this.

Additionally, with both new AMD GPUs, I ran into an HDMI 2.1 bug of audio constantly cutting out for roughly 1.5 seconds whenever a new audio source began playing after any established silence. I couldn't reproduce this, or any of the image-cutoff issues, with other monitors, connected either via HDMI 2.0 or DisplayPort. This issue may very well be rendered moot after either AMD or LG introduces a patch, but AMD had no solution for me as of press time.

So more issues to work on it looks like. I'd wager these are more AMD drivers rather then LG problems. But again, goes to show how leading edge tech can be *very* WIP.
 
Any news of the upcoming update ?
I am very tired of waiting and you ?

Here a nice video explain how to activate the update in service mode :


How many in this thread have the last update ?
 
Any news of the upcoming update ?
I am very tired of waiting and you ?

Here a nice video explain how to activate the update in service mode :


How many in this thread have the last update ?

I did it with an ancient Note 3 and the janky Android app.
 
Thanks good to know
And it is all good with this firmware ?
I haven't had any VRR problems, and I haven't seen any new additional problems. Only problem I still have is Quickstart+ randomly turning screenshift on, which has been around forever.
 
The stutter has been fixed.

Looks like he's got 03.21.03 instead of the one we are using 03.11.30. Interesting. Guess that means our engineering firmware will be be superseded, number-wise, and able to be updated when this launched publicly.
 
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