LG 48CX

[brainfried]

Does anyone know how to use a custom resolution for ultrawide on this and have the portion that is being displayed moved up or down so the black bars are either completely on top or below?

Here is what it currently does and below is what I'd like it to do. Ignore the resolutions it was taken from another post about another display.

Currently

Would like

That'd be super useful. I'm not sure how we could accomplish this; does anyone know if it's possible to adjust where the scanning out on the display begins via a custom resolution? Maybe ToastyX would have some ideas.

 

[b1gLoRD]

Don't put any devices on the other hdmi inputs on the AVR.

Is there any reason why you wouldnt be able use/switch to other inputs at same time?

 

[elvn]

Is there any reason why you wouldnt be able use/switch to other inputs at same time?

https://thenaudio.com/faq/




If you need more inputs I would keep your console (vrr, potentially higher hz this gen) and your PC (vrr, 120hz) on their own hdmi 2.1 inputs, then put less high end and likely not high hz + VRR dependent devices on a hdmi switch on the 3rd hdmi input on the TV... using the TV for switching between the 3 main hdmi port inputs.

AVR pass through usually adds processing and lag anyway. ARC/eARC are supposed to be the modern hdmi method with a configuration available that avoids this ... that is, if LG didn't ship a broken eARC implementation in this year's TV.

 

[El3c]

I'm just going by reviews but the SHARC audio device splits off before the TV and sends one HDMI cable to your (non eARC capable) audio receiver and the other cable to your TV for video. The reviewers have said it works fine with VRR even from an xbox's VRR.


It's not passing audio through the TV at all so idk why it would have any issue from the TV. It's splitting the signal from the GPU itself when running off of a PC.

from a reddit reply:


You can also go into your AVR's settings and disable ARC entirely if it has it since the SHARC uses regular hdmi input and isn't using arc/eARC at all.



You can not get uncompressed HDMI audio formats like dolby TrueHD or dolby Atmos (dolby TrueHD + atmos metadata added) when running toslink/spdif optical. You have to run HDMI for uncompressed audio formats.

Wtf...

I ve never said that i want uncompressed surround Sound and I also dont have or want to buy this sharc box.

I Dont know why you re telling the whole time storries about the box, my solution is toslink, cause it works without spending money into a hdmi splitter.

 

[Tol]

Same issue! No idea how to solve it, which adapter did you get to make it work?

I'm using a Starware DP to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WD75HCD . No issues at all with audio anymore. I'm not happy that I overspent by so much on a 2.1 receiver but everything does sound amazing, now.

 

[elvn]

I'm using a Starware DP to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WD75HCD . No issues at all with audio anymore. I'm not happy that I overspent by so much on a 2.1 receiver but everything does sound amazing, now.

I paid for the sharc box rather than buying a whole new receiver in my case but the end result will be the TV's eARC out to the add-on "sharc eArc port" on my old receiver.

Wtf...

I ve never said that i want uncompressed surround Sound and I also dont have or want to buy this sharc box.

I Dont know why you re telling the whole time storries about the box, my solution is toslink, cause it works without spending money into a hdmi splitter.

I was replying to user dpoverlord too since he asked a follow up question about how to set up the shARC.....

... but yes, you can just run toslink/spdif optical from your pc to the receiver and avoid the TV. I think my receiver has 2 toslink/spdif optical audio inputs. You could also get a toslink switch if you need to have more inputs. I used to use a cheap manual wheel style one at one point where you would just spin a bar in the middle to whichever input you wanted. I kept it within reach at my chair.

There are more modern toslink switches with a remote like this one for ~ $20 usd, or similar ones from monoprice:
https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Supports-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/


Toslink isn't good enough for me since this TV is supposed to have eARC for uncompressed hdmi audio. eARC uncompressed hdmi audio without having to resort to fake/phantom monitor tricks is one of the features I looked forward to with upgrading to a hdmi 2.1 display at my pc. There are a bunch of games that support ATMOS sound now and I'll be playing some movies off of my pc via plex with uncomrpessed hdmi audio (7.1 atmos) tracks either viewing full on or while I am more focused on my other monitor(s) in the array.


Uncompressed hdmi audio would normally be the only reason you'd absolutely need to run HDMI audio through the tv ever...
- outside of the easier 1 shot audio source switching at the same time as the video source with the TV's remote ease of use consideration. The optical switch method instead uses the TV remote to switch the video source as normal, and then the audio switch remote to switch the audio source.
However, newer consoles are omitting toslink/spdif optical audio outputs so that creates a problem again since they have to use the TV's toslink output if you want to run toslink to your audio device. You'd be stuck with that unless either someone makes a usb audio dongle for the console (like the astro mixamp / mixamp pro used to do on the older consoles), or if perhaps an existing usb audio device works on newer consoles.

VRR isn´t working when a second hdmi device is attached that doesnt support VRR.

Are you saying that if your (nvidia) gpu has regular 60hz or non-VRR monitors attached at the same time, that VRR won't work on the LG CX? That doesn't sound right at all.

 

[phinix]

Depends on what you care about. Awesome PQ with great response times? Then yes!

If you prioritize low PC input lag over everything else though, a 240Hz TN panel will likely serve you better. Or if you prefer smaller screens, then it's not going to be great.

PQ is most imporant for me, yes
I never had TN panels, horrible stuff.

Right now I have Philips 40" monitor which is VA and now I want to get best visual experience you can get for PC gaming.

 

[hhkb]

Be careful blindly copying the settings at https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/ixhy39/lg_cx_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/ I've seen mentioned here a few times. Some of the settings are just plain wrong - like setting Black level to Low will crush all your blacks. I'd advise not changing anything from default unless you know what it does.

 

[hhkb]

I understand, but I also tried my LG E6 2016 model game mode and even that looks way brighter and vivid compared to my CX game mode.

I feel like I have not got something set right. Another use on another forum stated that these Oleds usually need 4hrs or so of use to settle in and they will brighten up.

So far I only have about 2 hrs use.


I have both displays. But I only just got my CX and only have 2 hrs use. I still have to work things out on this display before I compare it to my LG 38GL950G.

But the only thing the 38GL950G will definitely win on currently, is the response and smoothness is far superior.

Yeah pretty odd. It might be difficult but I wonder if you can get some comparison photos. I'd also try resetting everything to default if you've copied settings from somewhere and see if that helps. Also are you on chroma 4:4:4?

I didn't notice any brightening up, if anything I cranked the brightness way down from 100 to 20 when I first used it, way too bright out of the box. I have an LG 27" IPS I can try comparing it with to see if I notice anything. Do you have a test image/or game to compare?

 

[dpoverlord]

As i said, it does not work! I ve tried it... But my solution with toslink and realtek Audio Chip works fine.

I paid for the sharc box rather than buying a whole new receiver in my case but the end result will be the TV's eARC out to the add-on "sharc eArc port" on my old receiver.




I was replying to user dpoverlord too since he asked a follow up question about how to set up the shARC.....

... but yes, you can just run toslink/spdif optical from your pc to the receiver and avoid the TV. I think my receiver has 2 toslink/spdif optical audio inputs. You could also get a toslink switch if you need to have more inputs. I used to use a cheap manual wheel style one at one point where you would just spin a bar in the middle to whichever input you wanted. I kept it within reach at my chair.

There are more modern toslink switches with a remote like this one for ~ $20 usd, or similar ones from monoprice:
https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Supports-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/
View attachment 301306

Toslink isn't good enough for me since this TV is supposed to have eARC for uncompressed hdmi audio. eARC uncompressed hdmi audio without having to resort to fake/phantom monitor tricks is one of the features I looked forward to with upgrading to a hdmi 2.1 display at my pc. There are a bunch of games that support ATMOS sound now and I'll be playing some movies off of my pc via plex with uncomrpessed hdmi audio (7.1 atmos) tracks either viewing full on or while I am more focused on my other monitor(s) in the array.


Uncompressed hdmi audio would normally be the only reason you'd absolutely need to run HDMI audio through the tv ever...
- outside of the easier 1 shot audio source switching at the same time as the video source with the TV's remote ease of use consideration. The optical switch method instead uses the TV remote to switch the video source as normal, and then the audio switch remote to switch the audio source.
However, newer consoles are omitting toslink/spdif optical audio outputs so that creates a problem again since they have to use the TV's toslink output if you want to run toslink to your audio device. You'd be stuck with that unless either someone makes a usb audio dongle for the console (like the astro mixamp / mixamp pro used to do on the older consoles), or if perhaps an existing usb audio device works on newer consoles.



Are you saying that if your (nvidia) gpu has regular 60hz or non-VRR monitors attached at the same time, that VRR won't work on the LG CX? That doesn't sound right at all.

Thanks,

I ordered the higher end Shark and went to Bestbuy and let me throw a curveball. I can get the GX 55" for the same price as the CX. The only difference is Costco gives me the 5 year + 2 year warranty for free and at Bestbuy I have to pay $320.

Does the GX model have all of these firmware updates as well?

If so, I am mounting this to the wall and it could be worth spending $320 more for the GX 55" I love the low profile for my wall.

So that brings me back, TOSLINK is optical so that would do Dolby ATMOS. If I want Dolby Atmos I need to put Audio through HDMI.

I will cross my fingers and wish for the best since this audio lag is killing me. I just dont want to lose my Dolby Atmos, Gsync, low input lag, high refresh rate in the process.

 

[Monstieur]

I understand, but I also tried my LG E6 2016 model game mode and even that looks way brighter and vivid compared to my CX game mode.

The older OLEDs had incorrect Game mode settings and were locked in wide gamut colour, so the image was always oversaturated.

The settings I posted here for HDR (SDR is in the next post) are the only correct settings. That's how the image is supposed to look.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-135#post-1044810911

 

[phinix]

How far do you guys it from the CX48?
I sit 80cm away from my 40"monitor. WOuld sit the same when get CX48, but I'm thinking if I should maybe get CX55 (£200 cheaper)...

 

[Advil]

32" Is very close even for the 48". I doubt you'll like the 55" at all from that close. I had the choice between the 48 and 55 at the same price. It was not a hard choice. The 48 is as big as you want to deal with on a desk.

 

[chimera991]

Those with the 48cx, what gpu is powering the beast? Currently on a 1080ti. Undecided on 3080 or 6900xt or wait for a 3080ti and try to get lucky.
Getting excited, it will be my work monitor too.

Does the TV come with high end 2.1 hdmi cables or nah?

 

[Advil]

Given a choice? The 3080. It's still substantially better for 4k. DLSS, RT, and GSync have all already proven useful to me on this TV.

The TV does not come with cables. You must provide your own.

 

[netjack]

asus

FYI - this was the exact monitor I upgraded from. Night and day difference - if you can afford it (both $ and space), do it and then you can send me $$ as a thank you

BTW - I sit about 3.5ft away from the screen and don't have any issues.

 

[Perscitus]

Thanks, Does the GX model have all of these firmware updates as well?

Yes, GXs take the same firmwares.
Pull up the US, Canada or Korea support sites, pull up the firmwares for the CXs to see all supported series (take models with a grain of salt given the regional labeling and confirmed wider update footprint).

 

[dpoverlord]

Sometimes when i boot up my pc, the default settings switches to 1024x768 if i then choose UHD, Windows sets the display to 119.997Hz insteaed of 120Hz. If that happens, VRR is stuck at 120Hz. You can enable the freesync menu while hitting the green button 5 times.

Seems like a Bug on Windows or Nvidias end

Need to figure this setting still. Heading home and will know soon!

BTW: ANYONE Buy the LG GX model?!?

I am having one sent to me to compare and am wondering if LG is updating this firmware as well and if it would be a bit better than the CX for gaming.

Pretty pumped for this one!

I really wanted the GX as it has a slimmer profile and would love that over the CX if it operates better. I assume it's the same panel just a different bezel setup and speaker and I wont use the speaker anyways

 

[MrTX]

PSA don't install the new engineer firmwares 3.22.50
Some users on avs forum are reporting that gsync is broken again with these newer engineer firmwares. Seems that 3.11.10 is the best option for smooth gsync. Best to keep your tv in user mode.

looks like everybody who is on the 3.22.xx engineering versions cannot update to the official release 3.11.30, as its a lower rev version than the engineering releases.
If LG doesn't release a newer version of the official firmware with 3.22.xxx, then you are pretty much stuck with the engineering builds until the official versions go to 3.22.xx.

Original Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ont_install_the_new_engineer_firmwares_32250/

 

[MistaSparkul]

This guy is right. The CX has it's problems that's for sure, but there is simply NO BETTER ALTERNATIVE out there.

 

[realworld]

Those with the 48cx, what gpu is powering the beast? Currently on a 1080ti. Undecided on 3080 or 6900xt or wait for a 3080ti and try to get lucky.
Getting excited, it will be my work monitor too.

Does the TV come with high end 2.1 hdmi cables or nah?

3080ti looks to be the better all-rounder with superior RT and 20GB(?) VRAM at the same price(?). $1000 is a huge waste for something that can’t max out tomorrow’s games like Cyberpunk. Flick RT on and it performs worse/on-par... with a freaking 3070!!!

 

[elvn]

They are expensive but I don't think you'll ever be able to play tomorrow's games at very high fps maxed out on all fronts on the highest resolution screens of the day, especially games with very high graphics ceilings. Every time you think you are going to catch up, the finish line moves. Raw gpu power increases are great and especially DLSS is very promising for gains but RTX/raytracing and upgrading to 4k resolution reduce that again. There are always other things like physx, hairworks, and texture packs or mods you can add too. The graphics ceiling in games is really an arbitrary set point where the devs whittle down complexity to fit "real time" with artificial limitations (especially things like view distance + animated objects and lighting fx viewable in that distance among other things) - so it's easy to scale that up whenever there is stronger hardware. It's hard to show people the better motion clarity and motion definition of high fpsHz in advertisements so gaming usually pushes graphics complexity to the breaking point (now incl raytracing) over highfpsHz's motion clarity(blur reduction) and motion definition/pathing/smoothness. However you can modifiy graphics settings individually or just use a slider in games, you don't have to run on ultra of course. You can also run a screen with a lower resolution than 4k. The overall point is that once you get a gpu that can run "tomorrow's games" - there will be newer "tomorrow's games", resolutions (8k screens, 4k per eye VR, and settings devs had to limit like view distance and other limited features will be increased). Within every gaming gen there are usually a few to several games that won't be able to max their settings (while being able to achieve high fpsHz) for at least another gpu generation.

Personally I'm prob going to prioritize fpsHz over raytracing even with DLSS active on cyberpunk. I'm happy to get 100fpsHz average or better (even if I have to dial some settings in/down), otherwise I'm not getting appreciable gains out of a 120hz+ screen. I don't consider 60fps ~ the shallow end of the fpsHz pool to be "ultra" settings aesthetically so I make cuts or tradeoffs as necessary. I've been able to crush my fps with over the top mods in things like GTAV for years, especially lighting wise. Even with the great sli scaling on that game there is a huge tradeoff for the highest lighting and other mod settings to your fpsHz. RTX/raytracing is very similar in that regard.


Don't forget that you can also play games from the previous gen(s) on a pc with over the top settings (and in some cases mods) you weren't capable of before at high fpsHz. It's one of the stronger points of pc gaming in my opinion. You don't have to wait for a "remake", especially for games within the last 3 - 5 yrs.

That said, the Ti has always been the more sensibly priced gpu with "titan performance". They always released the Titans first though so you had to wait 6months to get the Ti. I waited for the Ti the last two times I upgraded. This time the wait could be way too long for my taste, especially with the problem of scalpers buying out stock to flip gpus.

 

[hhkb]

How far do you guys it from the CX48?
I sit 80cm away from my 40"monitor. WOuld sit the same when get CX48, but I'm thinking if I should maybe get CX55 (£200 cheaper)...

I'm also about 80cm and I think the 55 would be too large at that distance. PPI of the 48 is about as low as you want to go in my opinion for 80cm (same as a 32" 1440p).

 

[hhkb]

I wouldn't wait for the Ti if you can get a 3080 now. It's nearly 2 months now and the 3080 still sells out within 5 minutes of a drop. It took me nearly a month to get one after launch, which included many sleepless nights and time spent setting up distill notifications and so on. The Ti is going to be similarly difficult to get a hold of, for at least 2-3 months after release. Worst case if you win the lottery and get a Ti at launch, you can just resell your 3080 for MSRP. I would not get less than a 3080 though for this screen at 4k. If you wanted to wait a little bit, 6900XT could be very good as well, and will probably have similar performance to the 3080Ti - but will also be difficult to get at launch.

 

[dpoverlord]

Are you guys using HGIG mode? I find it to be much darker for PC usage and games, I have said Dynamic Tone Mapping to On it looks much brighter vs the Dark - Dull look.

Also for the life of me how in the world do you get Overwatch to play with G-sync? It seems to cap the FPS at 60/70
Anyone playing Overwatch and get it to work?

When I set the game to Display based it caps at 70FPS
When I set the Game to VSync on Custom it will go to whatever FPS I desire but it doe snto feel smooth.

2.
Nvidia Control Panel
Change Resolution set to:
PC - 3840 x 2160 @ 120hz

3. Apply Following Settings (EVGA 3090 FTW3)
Desktop Color = 32bit
Output color depth = 10bpc
Output Color Format YCbCr444
Output Dynamic Range = Limited (Weird it's not full)

 

[flegg]

Are there any double hdmi 2.1 big navi or ampere cards out yet? (so I can finally enjoy max picture and sound quality with this overrated pos)

 

[kalston]

There are cards with 2-3 HDMI 2.1 ports yes. My Asus TUF has 2.

 

[t1337duder]

Are there any double hdmi 2.1 big navi or ampere cards out yet? (so I can finally enjoy max picture and sound quality with this overrated pos)

What do you need the 2nd HDMI 2.1 port for? You can use a DisplayPort to HDMI and it still carries the audio.

 

[elvn]

The gigabyte aorus cards have 3x hdmi but I think the 3rd one might be hdmi 2.0 and they are pricey premium cards . Since I'm using two 43" 60hz hdmi 2.0 tvs as bookends that will work for me though.

Displayport adapters can have hdmi handshaking issues on wakeup from standby which make it a roll of the dice every time you wake up your monitors as to whether the screen with be blanking/blinking over and over on wakeup. Sometimes this resolves to a full signal and once in awhile it ends up with no signal after all of the blanking/flashing. I'm pretty sure it shortened the lifespan of my TCL s405 model 43" VA's backlight which ended up having half of the screen dim after a year or so. Now I'm running the same model samsung on each end instead. I haven't upgraded middle displayport gaming monitor to hdmi 2.1 OLED tv yet and it could be a few months before I can get my hands on the 3000 series aorus card I want.

 

[NM64]

Yet still, my 'Game (user)' is very very dull and dim in comparison to my LG 38GL950G. I tried to stuff around with settings and could not get any desirable image quality.

What if you set the picture mode to something other than "Game", such as "ISF Expert", while VRR/G-Sync is enabled?

It's my impression that having VRR/G-Sync enabled automatically results in the low input lag seen with "Game" mode regardless of what picture mode you're actually using. EDIT:...but apparently this isn't the case? Though it sounds like having ALLM enabled does reduce the input lag regardless of picture mode, albeit not to the amount that "Game" mode does.

 

[Monstieur]

Are you guys using HGIG mode? I find it to be much darker for PC usage and games, I have said Dynamic Tone Mapping to On it looks much brighter vs the Dark - Dull look.

Also for the life of me how in the world do you get Overwatch to play with G-sync? It seems to cap the FPS at 60/70
Anyone playing Overwatch and get it to work?

When I set the game to Display based it caps at 70FPS
When I set the Game to VSync on Custom it will go to whatever FPS I desire but it doe snto feel smooth.

2.
Nvidia Control Panel
Change Resolution set to:
PC - 3840 x 2160 @ 120hz

3. Apply Following Settings (EVGA 3090 FTW3)
Desktop Color = 32bit
Output color depth = 10bpc
Output Color Format YCbCr444
Output Dynamic Range = Limited (Weird it's not full)

HGIG is the most accurate mode. You have to set the HDR/SDR brightness balance slider in Windows to achieve your desired brightness in SDR apps when HDR is enabled in Windows. Use this formula to calculate the slider value. I use a 120 nit target.

Slider Value = ((Target Nits * 1000 / 80 ) - 1000) / 5000 * 100

I have a similar bug in Dota 2 when running borderless window mode. The game reduces to ~60 fps even though my desktop is 120 Hz. I have to run fullscreen exclusive mode for it to run at 120 fps. G-SYNC is just enabled as usual and it works fine. Cap the fps to 118 and enable VSync.

Use RGB 10-bit Full Range. There is no reason to use YCbCr444 on a PC.

 

[t1337duder]

Already spent $600 over current MRSP for the privilege of beta testing an incomplete product for LG.

Want to minimize any hassles going forward rather than choke on more d*** screwing around with an adapter for the $700 video card this TV requires to start to function correctly..... which also could screw up VRR in addition to the above mentioned issues.

Took you clowns over a full month to realize I wasn't full of it when I was talking about the stuttering and input lag issues that they seem to have finally ***** fixed. Pretty over justifying my choices at this point

I understand your frustration. I'm just letting you know because I was initially concerned about being restricted to models with 2 HDMI 2.1 slots, but upon hearing that other people have tested it successfully without issues, I purchased myself the EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra, which only has 1 HDMI 2.1 slot, and I've had no issues with VRR or audio or otherwise. It seems the necessity for multiple HDMI 2.1 slots is an arbitrary one if you're worried about audio.

 

[Porter_]

Has anyone here upgraded to this from a Samsung Q60 QLED? I know there are lots of articles/videos comparing OLED to QLED but I’m curious about firsthand experiences, particularly for gaming.

I'll do you one better. I have both a Samsung Q90R and an LG CX.

At first, I was like "man, the Q90R is good because it gets so bright", but the truth is, the LG CX is much clearer for gaming, mainly due to the fast pixel response. Color pops way more on the CX, and the CX handles HDR, especially in gaming, significantly better. That being said, the Q90R is an excellent TV for gaming, but it feels like the LG CX is better.

Videos don't do justice to the difference in perceived quality between Samsung's QLED and LG's OLED. It's night and day.

I have a 2018 q60fn in the living room. While I was moving. I had it on my desk for a week using it as a monitor.
The q60 looked great in desktop use. Almost like when you crank the Nvidia digital vibrance slider. 120hz 1440 was smooth. Played some ark on it and was impressed.
Keep in mind... I am very fond of my q60. I picked up a Q80T before the CX and took it back because the Q60 looked better.

My CX came in last week and they are not even comparable. The oled feels like a completely different display technology.
The pixel response on an oled is an order of magnitude faster than LCDs
I periodically check out face book and craigslist looking for high end CRT monitors. (I have a sony F-520 that will not power on anymore) I will not be doing that anymore. The motion blur is not perceptible to me on the oled. It has perfect geometry and clarity....

Blacks are perfectly black with no glow bleeding through.. I have never seen gray uniformity this good. Contrast ratio is infinite.
The color in games is spectacular. Especially in the games that support HDR.

There are some issues with gsync stuttering and flickering at 120hz. I can't really speak about that. Waiting to secure a new card, so im stuck with 4k 60 and mostly 1440 120. Haven't had an issue with those.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I ordered one today, should be delivered by Dec 1st. I’m excited.

 

[dpoverlord]

Already spent $600 over current MRSP for the privilege of beta testing an incomplete product for LG.

Want to minimize any hassles going forward rather than choke on more d*** screwing around with an adapter for the $700 video card this TV requires to start to function correctly..... which also could screw up VRR in addition to the above mentioned issues.

Took you clowns over a full month to realize I wasn't full of it when I was talking about the stuttering and input lag issues that they seem to have finally ***** fixed. Pretty over justifying my choices at this point

I understand, I am in the same boat as you with an EVGA 3090, Creative Sonic Carrier (Dolby Atmos only takes HDMI), the LG CX 55" and working on colors, Gsync and Atmos. Lets keep on working together! There are enough of us here to figure a solution. So far the fact our community is trying so hard to help should be a signal we can FIND a solution . We did with the Samsung 2015 JS9000 series!

What if you set the picture mode to something other than "Game", such as "ISF Expert", while VRR/G-Sync is enabled?

It's my impression that having VRR/G-Sync enabled automatically results in the low input lag seen with "Game" mode regardless of what picture mode you're actually using.

How do you get this ISF Expert mode? Still trying to get this to work.

I understand your frustration. I'm just letting you know because I was initially concerned about being restricted to models with 2 HDMI 2.1 slots, but upon hearing that other people have tested it successfully without issues, I purchased myself the EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra, which only has 1 HDMI 2.1 slot, and I've had no issues with VRR or audio or otherwise. It seems the necessity for multiple HDMI 2.1 slots is an arbitrary one if you're worried about audio.

He is concerned like me as we have Dolby Atmos sound and only 1 HDMI Port so were trying to manage our connections to not have this crazy lag I just bought the updated new shark for $200 hoping this fixes it. Also bought some $$$ cables to see if it makes a difference with the hopes we can return what doesn't help.

HGIG is the most accurate mode. You have to set the HDR/SDR brightness balance slider in Windows to achieve your desired brightness in SDR apps when HDR is enabled in Windows. Use this formula to calculate the slider value. I use a 120 nit target.

Slider Value = ((Target Nits * 1000 / 80 ) - 1000) / 5000 * 100

I have a similar bug in Dota 2 when running borderless window mode. The game reduces to ~60 fps even though my desktop is 120 Hz. I have to run fullscreen exclusive mode for it to run at 120 fps. G-SYNC is just enabled as usual and it works fine. Cap the fps to 118 and enable VSync.

Use RGB 10-bit Full Range. There is no reason to use YCbCr444 on a PC.

Monstieur thats GREAT news! I just changed to RGB, found that slider it was set to 50. Not to sound odd but your slider value code for a 120 nit target gets you a 10 Silder Value. That seems odd. Am I misunderstanding you? For me to like the color I have it set to 100 and my Brightness in Game mode set to 100 which seems quite high no?

For the games, how do you run at FullScreen Exclusive? I have it set to FullScreen and in the Control Panel it has Gsync enables and made the custom FPS 118. However, if I change custom FPS to display it lowers to 70 and at the custom setting there is noticeable stuttering.

EDIT: Monstieur YOU ARE A GENIUS. So after doing your options I clicked Monitor in Overwatch and 3840x2160 showed upand it went to 120FPS. So you are saying dont keep it Display based change nit to custom Cap at 118 right? Curious the main resoning for that.

So after this I just need to tweak the audio lag and find a way to make SVP SMooth Motion video work as it seems MPC x64 bit slows to a crawl at 4k dolby atmos mkv's.

How do you set FullSCreen Exclusive mode though?

 

[Monstieur]

Monstieur thats GREAT news! I just changed to RGB, found that slider it was set to 50. Not to sound odd but your slider value code for a 120 nit target gets you a 10 Silder Value. That seems odd. Am I misunderstanding you? For me to like the color I have it set to 100 and my Brightness in Game mode set to 100 which seems quite high no?

For the games, how do you run at FullScreen Exclusive? I have it set to FullScreen and in the Control Panel it has Gsync enables and made the custom FPS 118. However, if I change custom FPS to display it lowers to 70 and at the custom setting there is noticeable stuttering.

EDIT: Monstieur YOU ARE A GENIUS. So after doing your options I clicked Monitor in Overwatch and 3840x2160 showed upand it went to 120FPS. So you are saying dont keep it Display based change nit to custom Cap at 118 right? Curious the main resoning for that.

So after this I just need to tweak the audio lag and find a way to make SVP SMooth Motion video work as it seems MPC x64 bit slows to a crawl at 4k dolby atmos mkv's.

How do you set FullSCreen Exclusive mode though?

A slider value of 0 is 80 nits, and 100 is 480 nits. 80 nits is the standard for SDR content, but most people use 100-120 nits. Above 140 nits, ABL will kick in on the CX and dim the screen in full-white content. Setting the slider to 100 (480 nits) will burn-in the screen real fast.

You should always use a custom FPS limit below the refresh rate for G-SYNC. If the game runs at the display refresh rate, it will revert to VSync and you'll get input lag.

SVP works fine with the new AviSynth filter (instead of ffdshow) in MPC-BE. You can install AviSynth from the SVP update screen. NVIDIA Optical Flow is broken on my 3090 so I had to disable it.

Fullscreen is typically exclusive.

 

[kalston]

What if you set the picture mode to something other than "Game", such as "ISF Expert", while VRR/G-Sync is enabled?

It's my impression that having VRR/G-Sync enabled automatically results in the low input lag seen with "Game" mode regardless of what picture mode you're actually using.

You can do it but it incurs a huge input lag penalty. Even for a slow 60fps single player game I found it unbearable (and I blind tested it, by accident the first time). It's still smooth mind you so VRR still works to my surprise.

But it's not even worth the hassle IMO, game mode manually set to the same settings as ISF should look indistinguishable to the naked eye. Well of course every set is calibrated a bit differently but worth a shot.

 

[kasakka]

You can do it but it incurs a huge input lag penalty. Even for a slow 60fps single player game I found it unbearable (and I blind tested it, by accident the first time). It's still smooth mind you so VRR still works to my surprise.

But it's not even worth the hassle IMO, game mode manually set to the same settings as ISF should look indistinguishable to the naked eye. Well of course every set is calibrated a bit differently but worth a shot.

My experience is that settings other than game mode have only slightly higher input lag as long as instant game response is enabled. I tried this in Doom Eternal flicking between the modes and you could feel it in mouse movement but it was totally playable. I stick to Game mode.

 

[NukeDukem]

Direct link: https://www.lgservice.co.kr/fileDownload.do?cBbsCode=SW_PDS&cSeq=12118&check=true

Just installed this (OLED55CXPUA), can confirm stuttering on Horizon Zero Dawn above 105FPS is gone. Kudos to LG!

 

[steiNetti]

Okay, I finally have a 3080 incoming.. now I only need the OTA fw update for europe..

 

[Kev13Dd]

Okay, I finally have a 3080 incoming.. now I only need the OTA fw update for europe..

The previous Europe FW was posted 2 weeks after the Korean version. So optimistically early December for us