Yeah you can just delete the 4096x2160 from the EDID using Custom Resolution Utility. Make sure you delete it from both "HDMI support" and "TV resolutions" sections.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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So you're saying when the camera isn't moving then everything is normal?
I did a g-sync on and off comparison in Control and I think it looks really bad in that particular game. Like really it makes the game look a lot worse than it should.
This is an extreme case and I'm sure most games will be fine but it's really disappointing and I'll definitely not always be using g-sync on this display (unless LG can come up with a decent workaround).
On the other hand I have not ran into any flickering issue, I even played some games that run at a horribly low framerate and it was fine, LFC was doing its part and it there were no issues other than the raised near-black.
This is an extreme case and I'm sure most games will be fine but it's really disappointing and I'll definitely not always be using g-sync on this display (unless LG can come up with a decent workaround).
On the other hand I have not ran into any flickering issue, I even played some games that run at a horribly low framerate and it was fine, LFC was doing its part and it there were no issues other than the raised near-black.
How are you guys managing powering the monitor on and off? I'm used to never touching the power button on my past monitors. If the computer is on and idle, screens turn off (sleep mode) after X minutes. If I turn off the computer, the screens go in standby mode. When resuming from either scenario, the screens automatically wake up/turn on so I never have to reach around and turn them on by pressing a power button.
I'm not able to replicate this w/ the CX. When the CX hits the time limit for "turn screen off after X minutes," it appears to go into some deep sleep and I can only awake if I press the power button. If I turn the computer off, there's a "no signal" logo bouncing around indefinitely which forces me to manually turn off the screen.
Thoughts?
I'm not able to replicate this w/ the CX. When the CX hits the time limit for "turn screen off after X minutes," it appears to go into some deep sleep and I can only awake if I press the power button. If I turn the computer off, there's a "no signal" logo bouncing around indefinitely which forces me to manually turn off the screen.
Thoughts?
Last edited:
equinox654
Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2005
- Messages
- 979
I have the control on my desk and turn it off when I'm done. Hell if I go pee... I turn it off.
Remote control?? What a neanderthal!
Ahh but I still need the remote to get the alexa going which defeats the purpose.
Porter_
[H]F Junkie
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- Sep 10, 2007
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- 8,467
Has anyone here upgraded to this from a Samsung Q60 QLED? I know there are lots of articles/videos comparing OLED to QLED but I’m curious about firsthand experiences, particularly for gaming.
I just have the remote on my table and use that. Two button presses instead of one. You could use the ColorControl app to automate this but I am not sure how well it works.
So I tried out the ColorControl App. I'm able to power it off w/ the app but not turn on - gives me an error exception dialog box. Strange.
You might want to file an issue with the dev on Github describing your use case. It might be something like when you try to turn it on you need to send some sort of wake on LAN type package to the TV because it cannot connect to the TV API since it's not turned on.
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- 966
Wonder if the C9 has this issue, it's a dealbreaker for sure. I have a C9 but no hdmi 2.1 card to test. I'll test when I get a 6900XT.
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- May 5, 2006
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- 5,937
From what I understand from everything published and posted about this as it is now, the gamma in VRR mode is set for 120Hz 8.3ms duration so when you run a lower fpsHz it will cause the longer frame durations to be overcharged which makes the black levels raised.
That sounds like the lower your actual frame rate at any given time, the brighter it will be. I don't know what the scale of this effect is though.
During the most demanding parts of a game like mass combat and FX going off or long detailed view distances, fast moving vehicles etc. - it would be the lower part of your frame rate graph compared to when your character and game camera are walking down a corridor or is investigating or passing through smaller rooms in a building for example. In those more demanding scenes your for example 75fps average game might drop to the shallow end of it's graph to rates 15fpsHz or even 30 fpsHz lower in some games (45fpsHz to 60fpsHz). The lower end of a 100fpsHz average graph running game could be 85fpsHz or as low as 70fpsHz in some games.
Metro Exodus 4k Ultra frame rate AVERAGE graph (no DLSS, no RTX), showing what 75.5 fps average can look like in actual frame rates.
https://hothardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3090-bfgpu-review?page=4
So it would make sense that you might be able to see the difference, especially if starting at a lower, and apparently brighter, frame rate average to begin with.
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Last edited:
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- 5,937
You might want to check these controllers out:
Global Caché IP2IR-P iTach TCP/IP to IR Converter with Power Over Ethernet (PoE) - Connects Infrared Control Devices to a Wired Connection
- PROVIDES REMOTE CONTROL TO HOME SENSORS - The Global Caché IP2IR-P iTach lets you monitor infrared devices (e.g., flat panel TV, DVD player, cable boxes) over a network and internet.
- CONNECTS UP TO 3 IR DEVICES - You can connect up to three infrared devices such as stereo equipment to the internet via wired PoE.
- OFFERS POWER-OVER-ETHERNET - Unlike the standard IP2IR model, the IP2IR-P iTach has 802.3af compliant PoE input. You can now just use one cable get electric power and data connection to the IP2IR-P.
- PROVIDES AN EASY, NO-FUSS SETUP - The IP2IR-P iTach has an integrated web server, which allows you to configure set-up commands through TCP/IP.
- WORKS WITH PC, iOS, ANDROID CONTROL APPS - Based on open systems, the IP2IR-P seamlessly integrates with PC-based control software, iPhone/iPod/iPad apps, and high-end monitoring systems.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Or you could probably look for usb IR emitters for windows 10 and then find some usb controller software like IR Blaster type stuff.
http://www.usbuirt.com/
http://www.eventghost.net/
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I'll do you one better. I have both a Samsung Q90R and an LG CX.
At first, I was like "man, the Q90R is good because it gets so bright", but the truth is, the LG CX is much clearer for gaming, mainly due to the fast pixel response. Color pops way more on the CX, and the CX handles HDR, especially in gaming, significantly better. That being said, the Q90R is an excellent TV for gaming, but it feels like the LG CX is better.
Videos don't do justice to the difference in perceived quality between Samsung's QLED and LG's OLED. It's night and day.
equinox654
Gawd
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- Apr 7, 2005
- Messages
- 979
I have a 2018 q60fn in the living room. While I was moving. I had it on my desk for a week using it as a monitor.
The q60 looked great in desktop use. Almost like when you crank the Nvidia digital vibrance slider. 120hz 1440 was smooth. Played some ark on it and was impressed.
Keep in mind... I am very fond of my q60. I picked up a Q80T before the CX and took it back because the Q60 looked better.
My CX came in last week and they are not even comparable. The oled feels like a completely different display technology.
The pixel response on an oled is an order of magnitude faster than LCDs
I periodically check out face book and craigslist looking for high end CRT monitors. (I have a sony F-520 that will not power on anymore) I will not be doing that anymore. The motion blur is not perceptible to me on the oled. It has perfect geometry and clarity....
Blacks are perfectly black with no glow bleeding through.. I have never seen gray uniformity this good. Contrast ratio is infinite.
The color in games is spectacular. Especially in the games that support HDR.
There are some issues with gsync stuttering and flickering at 120hz. I can't really speak about that. Waiting to secure a new card, so im stuck with 4k 60 and mostly 1440 120. Haven't had an issue with those.
Does anyone know the difference(s) between the models in Europe? I noticed that price varies significantly in my country.
I observed different colors (grey vs black) and the pricier version has Bluetooth in description. For the cheaper models aren't displayed many pictures to see if the stand differs or not.
| 48CX9 | ~1530 Euro |
| 48CX8LB | ~1734 Euro |
| 48CX8LC | ~3000 Euro !!! (Some say the sellers are preparing the prices for Black Friday) |
| 55CX3LA | ~1270 Euro - The 55 model is cheaper, but I think is too big to use it mainly as a monitor |
I observed different colors (grey vs black) and the pricier version has Bluetooth in description. For the cheaper models aren't displayed many pictures to see if the stand differs or not.
You would have to ask LG about the differences if they are not in any way apparent from the product pages. But for the most part they will be the same TV for anything that really matters. Mine is 48CX6LB and I paid 1399 euros for mine in Finland.
The 55" model is cheaper because it's cheaper to manufacture and more popular.
CX<regioncode>LA
Region code:
9... mostly sold in western europe
6... UK (I think)
3... eastern europe (and it also only has a single tuner vs dual tuner on the other models).
I got a 55CX3LA from hungary for about 1200 shipped. But I also think eastern europe only gets limited stock of the 48" models. They haven't been available there for several months.
LG Model codes explained:
https://en.tab-tv.com/?page_id=7111
Thank you for the answers, now I have an idea about the meaning of different models.
steiNetti - I agree that in Eastern Europe the availability is scarce, not just for this TV/monitor, but for other components/devices too. Also, the price is usually higher...
steiNetti - I agree that in Eastern Europe the availability is scarce, not just for this TV/monitor, but for other components/devices too. Also, the price is usually higher...
Has anyone else tried disabling auto-dimming like I have?
I'm genuinely curious, as it was driving me crazy and I thought more people would want to do it. I haven't looked back since doing it!
I'm genuinely curious, as it was driving me crazy and I thought more people would want to do it. I haven't looked back since doing it!
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2006
- Messages
- 435
I finally managed to get a Strix 3090 the other day, got a block on it, and got my loop rebuilt and it installed and dialed in (it's glorious BTW). So I can now +1 that the 2m Zeskit cable on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1CGQ9Z) works fine at HDMI 2.1 bandwidth.
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I've seen some posts in the last bit about changing the OLED light or brightness setting to be lower to mitigate the gamma shift issue with VRR. This will obviously make the overall picture dimmer, but I'm in a pitch black room so I don't mind that.
Can anyone confirm if one of those, which one actually does mitigate it to negligible, and at what value?
Can anyone confirm if one of those, which one actually does mitigate it to negligible, and at what value?
I don't see how OLED light would help. But it helps with burn-in and eye fatigue in a dark room.
The different setting called "brightness" can be used to hide the gamma shift, but you are effectively crushing the black details when you do that. Also seems to make the whole picture a bit darker and screw the calibration. But maybe at -1 or -2 it's not too bad, I haven't measured it. You can also use a gamma setting of 2.4 and probably not see the gamma shift ever, but again you are losing a lot of dark details when the majority of content is designed for 2.2.
The different setting called "brightness" can be used to hide the gamma shift, but you are effectively crushing the black details when you do that. Also seems to make the whole picture a bit darker and screw the calibration. But maybe at -1 or -2 it's not too bad, I haven't measured it. You can also use a gamma setting of 2.4 and probably not see the gamma shift ever, but again you are losing a lot of dark details when the majority of content is designed for 2.2.
I've been trying to determine how serious the gamma shift with VRR is and if it means I should take the TV back. In Dead by Daylight, as I shift from sections of menus, the fps instantly drops to 100 for a brief moment then back to 120. In the gif below you can see that this causes a flashing of sorts. I don't remember this happening with my last monitor.
CX Gamma Shift?
So it looks this might be an exaggerated example of the gamma shift since the fps drop is so fast and significant. When I play destiny the fps bounces all over the place, but is more consistent than major spikes in either direction like this. Which is why I'm guessing I don't notice it in that game.
Can someone confirm or correct if I'm wrong that this is a result of the gamma shift issue?
CX Gamma Shift?
So it looks this might be an exaggerated example of the gamma shift since the fps drop is so fast and significant. When I play destiny the fps bounces all over the place, but is more consistent than major spikes in either direction like this. Which is why I'm guessing I don't notice it in that game.
Can someone confirm or correct if I'm wrong that this is a result of the gamma shift issue?
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IMO, there has been way too many inconsistent reports of the VRR gamma bug. It ranges from "near blacks gets raised and stay raised" to "near blacks flashing back and fourth from one value to the next"...so which is it then? That flashing that you see, I actually see that all the time in loading screens when my fps is like 20 lol. During normal gameplay I don't notice any flashing.
I don't care much for what happens in menus or loading screens... I've often seen flickering and stuff even with LCD monitors and a genuine g-sync module in those instances, but the only thing I care about is gameplay.
The only issues I can report with gameplay so far would be the noticeable raised near-blacks in some games (like Control which runs around 60fps and looks really bad with VRR IMO) and the stuttering around 100-120fps that will be fixed eventually (I haven't bothered trying all the workarounds mentioned yet). I think this will still remain the best gaming monitor for almost everyone out there, especially once they fix the high fps stuttering thing. The raised near-blacks are not noticeable everywhere all the time and it still looks way better than any LCD could ever dream of. And you can also just turn off VRR I suppose. A lot of people don't even mind the mismatched fps/hz feeling, and many are using VRR monitors without VRR actually working because of settings or software issues.
The only issues I can report with gameplay so far would be the noticeable raised near-blacks in some games (like Control which runs around 60fps and looks really bad with VRR IMO) and the stuttering around 100-120fps that will be fixed eventually (I haven't bothered trying all the workarounds mentioned yet). I think this will still remain the best gaming monitor for almost everyone out there, especially once they fix the high fps stuttering thing. The raised near-blacks are not noticeable everywhere all the time and it still looks way better than any LCD could ever dream of. And you can also just turn off VRR I suppose. A lot of people don't even mind the mismatched fps/hz feeling, and many are using VRR monitors without VRR actually working because of settings or software issues.
So I have an odd observation here.
I've been noticing some jutter and stuttering with GSYNC on my RTX 3080 and CX. I tried setting the settings down to 4K120 4:2:0 8-bit, and this seems to fall within HDMI 2.0b range, so it "should" resolve the stuttering issue. It still feels.... off. It's working, but it doesn't feel smooth compared to what I'm used to.
So I decided to put my RTX 2070 Super back in and test it at the same settings (4K120 4:2:0 8-bit) on Euro Truck Simulator (constant motion, easy to detect stuttering), and it is 100% smoother on my RTX 2070 Super. I thought this might be down to resolution, so I set it to 1440P120 RGB 8-bit, and again, performance is 100% smooth on the 2070 Super.
I'm starting to believe that LG's HDMI 2.1 VRR implementation on their LG CX is not ready for prime time. GSYNC/VRR on the 2070 Super is literally perfect, but on the 3080, it does not feel smooth at all. This isn't good, as I am now contemplating selling the CX in favor of a 4K monitor with a GSYNC module and DisplayPort. I paid $1800 for tthe CX 55. There's zero reason that a 2070 Super should be smoother feeling than an RTX 3080.
I really hate beta testing bleeding edge tech... seriously, that's what it feels like.
I've been noticing some jutter and stuttering with GSYNC on my RTX 3080 and CX. I tried setting the settings down to 4K120 4:2:0 8-bit, and this seems to fall within HDMI 2.0b range, so it "should" resolve the stuttering issue. It still feels.... off. It's working, but it doesn't feel smooth compared to what I'm used to.
So I decided to put my RTX 2070 Super back in and test it at the same settings (4K120 4:2:0 8-bit) on Euro Truck Simulator (constant motion, easy to detect stuttering), and it is 100% smoother on my RTX 2070 Super. I thought this might be down to resolution, so I set it to 1440P120 RGB 8-bit, and again, performance is 100% smooth on the 2070 Super.
I'm starting to believe that LG's HDMI 2.1 VRR implementation on their LG CX is not ready for prime time. GSYNC/VRR on the 2070 Super is literally perfect, but on the 3080, it does not feel smooth at all. This isn't good, as I am now contemplating selling the CX in favor of a 4K monitor with a GSYNC module and DisplayPort. I paid $1800 for tthe CX 55. There's zero reason that a 2070 Super should be smoother feeling than an RTX 3080.
I really hate beta testing bleeding edge tech... seriously, that's what it feels like.
Here's my guess. With the 3080 you may have nvcp set to 420-8, but your game is fullscreening and disgregarding those settings. The 2070 is doing the same thing, but not hitting the fps range that has stutter issues (111-119). So try this first. See if the 3080 is hitting the high, bad range, while the 2070 is staying in the low smooth range. And then after those results, make sure the game is running in borderless window so that it is for sure using the nvcp settings. And then see if 3080 is good at all fps ranges.
If neither of those work, I'm selling a like-new Predator X27. lol
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2006
- Messages
- 435
If there isn't some additional variable involved you aren't aware of, then same TV, same cable type, different GPUs points to something wrong in the GPUs or NVidia drivers, not the TV. Both GPUs are doing HDMI VRR.
MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2006
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- 1,141
That sucks
antonlissone
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 15, 2020
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- 85
26 is not the new firmware. That one has been out for a month.
I'd consider it essential if you want to use the CX 48 as a monitor. It's a shame you can only do it from the service menu.
I used an old Samsung Galaxy S4 and the LG Service Menu app for this, worked just fine. Exactly the same thing as the service remote, just no physical buttons.
Do you guys really notice a difference? I've seen it maybe once or twice kick in on extremely bright scenes, but it's by far not to an extend that would ever bother me. (talking SDR gaming content, I'm waiting on availability on a next-gen GPU for modern AAA titles).
Please share how you get to the service menu to disable this. I was only aware of the energy savings setting.